CÁCH ĐO HÀNG MAY MẶC

The purpose of this manual is to provide direction on how to measure adidas products. The information provided in this manual is meant to provide a basis for measuring and does not reflect every case or possibility.When a special case arises, the pattern maker will provide detailed information to the factory regarding how to measure.

VALID FOR CREATION CENTERS: CCH / CCP / CCS / CCT / REEBOK

DATE

YYYY/MM/DD

2012/07/10 Manuela Christ 26-28 • added additional information into description related to HPS

2013/03/12 Manuela Christ 30, 38, 57, 59 • updated description and added picture for hood

• updated description for set in to match with BP and Standard Logo position

and gave additional information

• added additional description for minimum measurement and maximum w/b

width stretched

• updated description and deleted picture

2013/03/19 Stephanie Obieglo 26, 29, 32 • added slide 26 for armhole measurement with rib

• updated slide 29 for front neck drop measurement, pictures added

• updated slide 32 and added pictures for better understanding for finished

neck opening meas Polo with stand and hoody 2013/05/25 Stephanie Obieglo different • updated slides, which were requested

2013/08/20 Stephanie Obieglo 16 • added slide for chest/ waist width with pleat

2013/08/21 Stephanie Obieglo 121, 124, 125,

139, 140

• Swim wear: updated front hip width (124/ 125), added slide 139/ 140 for

waist and hip width 2013/08/26 Stephanie Obieglo 20, 34, 86 • added slides with information for „front to back“ meas for back length,

sleeve length and leg hem; formerly called „drop tail“

MANUAL UPDATES

• added new picture and description for functional pocket opening

• amended descripton of meas an inner brief

• changed sentence of min wb width stretched

• put in hip width meas., meas with 3-Stripes

2014/04/10 Anne Huhmann 114 • changed picture of meas front/back neck drop

2015/05/06 A.Freudenberger 80,82,

86,91

• added hip measurement for pants with big front /back difference

• added slides for split shorts

2015/06/11 A.Freudenberger 68 • deleted „ for asian bra top only “ because it is relevant for all

2016/09/20 A.Freudenberger 42

100

101

• changed picture of meas.min neck opening stretched

• changed picture of meas.inner brief length

• changed picture of meas.inner brief side seam length

• changed to new layout

2016/12/07 A.Freudenberger 83,88,93 • added slides for preshaped tights and split short

2017/02/09 A.Freudenberger 82/83,87/88 • added meas.especially for running split shorts,changed back to former

way to measure for all others

3 2012/07/10 4.1.3_HOW TO MEASURE GARMENTS

Content Page

How to measure swim wear and under wire bras 126 - 154

GENERAL INFORMATION

The purpose of this manual is to provide direction on how to measure adidas products

The information provided in this manual is meant to provide a basis for measuring and does not reflect every case or possibility

When a special case arises, the pattern maker will provide detailed information to the factory regarding how to measure

For example, if there is a side insert and there is no “true” underarm point, it is difficult to use the standard “2.0 cm below the armhole” measurement In this case, the pattern maker will provide a measurement distance from HPS If nothing is provided in the spec, then the factory should contact the pattern maker with a suggestion It is important that the factory and the pattern maker work together on finding the best solution for measuring special cases

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IMPORTANT: ACCURATE MEASURING

It is very important that garments are measured correctly

If a garment is not correctly measured, this can negatively affect fitting and the adjustments made:

•For example: a garment has a hem width in meas.set of 110.0 cm The garment

is incorrectly measured at 108.0 cm but the garment actually measures true

to the meas.set at 110.0 cm During the fit session, it is decided that the garment

is too big at the hem opening The Pattern Maker makes an adjustment (believing that the garment measures 108.0 cm) and adjusts the meas.set to 106.0 cm The factory makes this adjustment and the next sample is too small If the garment had been measured correctly, the Pattern Maker would have made the correct meas.set adjustments Now the Pattern Maker will have to adjust the hem opening again to achieve the correct fit

•ACCURATE MEASURING IS CRITICAL!

BENEFIT OF ACCURATE MEASURING

•Adjustments/pattern changes made during the fittings are correct

•Fewer pattern changes are required throughout the development process

•Garments can be FIT APPROVED faster

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2012/07/10

9

GENERAL MEASURING INFORMATION

• front and back has to be precisely matched at lower armhole

before any measurement can be taken

• measurement has to be multiplied by two

• bindings are included in measurements,

neckribs or armhole ribs aren´t included

• for padded jackets all measurements should be taken with measuring tape flat (without pressure

applied)

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Content Page

11

Shaped sleeve opening 33 Back neck width 34 - 35 Front neck drop 36 - 38 Back neck drop 39 Collar 40 - 44 Hood 45 - 53 Logo measurements 54 Back length 55 Front to back (droptail) 56 High point shoulder 57 Strap tops 58 - 64

Bras 65 - 67 Elastic width 66 Asian Bra: chest width meas 67

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Content Page

Chest width 13 - 14

Chest / waist width with pleat 15

Waist width 16

Hem opening / waistband width 17

Hem opening – curved hem 18

Hem opening – slits 19

Front zip length 20

Shoulder length / shoulder and sleeve length 21

Shoulder length (tank top) 22

Sleeve length 23 - 24

Sleeve width 25 - 26

Forearm width 27

Elbow width 28

Armhole length (finished meas.) 29 - 30

Sleeve opening / sleeve cuff width 31

Addit length/ front to back(droptail) on sleeve 32

HOW TO MEASURE TOPS

13

CHEST WIDTH

• The chest width measurement point is

2cm below the armhole (measured along the side seam)

14

CHEST WIDTH – WITHOUT ARMHOLE SEAM

ADDITIONAL MEASUREMENT POINT

• The chest width is measured Xcm from HPS (size spec)

• For grading of measurement point pls follow given basic pattern or grading guideline

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15

CHEST / WAIST WIDTH WITH PLEAT

Chest width excl pleat

Waist width excl pleat

• place garment so that it is folded at original sideseam

• chest and waist width are measured excluding pleat (see meas.set)

x cm

Chest measurement line (2,0cm below

armhole)

Waist measurement line

• to get the waist measurement point, start at the

chest measurement point (2cm below armhole)

•Waist width

• it should be measured along the side seam The size

spec will specify the chest to waist measurement (xcm)

• waist width measurement should be taken straight

across

WAIST WIDTH

17

HEM OPENING / WAISTBAND WIDTH

Straight hem measured straight from side

seam to side seam

In specific cases like curved hem or side

slits see measurement set

• The waistband has to be placed relaxed

2012/07/10 4.1.3_HOW TO MEASURE GARMENTS

HEM OPENING – CURVED HEM

Measure curved hem opening straight from side

seam to side seam

In special cases measure along the curved hem (see measurement set)

19

Measure slit hems straight from side seam opening to side seam opening

HEM OPENING - SLITS

2012/07/10 4.1.3_HOW TO MEASURE GARMENTS

FRONT ZIP LENGTH

• Zipper length is measured from the top edge of the zipper

puller to the bottom of the stopper

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SHOULDER LENGTH / SHOULDER AND SLEEVE LENGTH

• The shoulder length has to be measured at the fold line (original shoulder point)

SHOULDER LENGTH FOR TANK TOPS

Shoulder length for a tank top with binding

is measured from edge to edge

Shoulder length is measured from the inner edge of the neck rib to the inner edge of the armhole rib

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SLEEVE LENGTH

Sleeve length has to be measured along the fold line

TOTAL SLEEVE LENGTH (C.B TO HPS TO SLEEVE OPENING)

ADDITIONAL MEAS POINT / PATTERN MEAS

Measured along the fold line, from center back to HPS to sleeve opening

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SLEEVE WIDTH

The sleeve width has to be measured 2cm below the

armhole (straight or curved along the under sleeve seam)

It has to be measured right angled to the folded center sleeve

Sleeve width will not be measured on cap and fusion sleeve, only sleeve opening

SLEEVE WIDTH – WITHOUT ARMHOLE SEAM MEASURED FROM CB

ADDITIONAL MEASUREMENT POINT

• The sleeve width is measured x cm (size spec) from center back along fold

•It has to be measured right angled to the folded center sleeve

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FOREARM WIDTH

•The forearm width is measured

x cm (meas.set) from the bottom edge

of the sleeve opening (along the sleeve seam)

• It must be measured at a right angle

to the folded sleeve

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ARMHOLE LENGTH (FINISHED MEASUREMENT )

• Armhole opening is measured along the curve including the binding in the

measurement

• Please use the measuring tape vertically

ARMHOLE LENGTH WITH RIB (FINISHED MEASUREMENT )

Measure armhole with rib

along seam

•Armhole opening is measured along the seam

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SLEEVE OPENING / SLEEVE CUFF WIDTH

• The sleeve opening has to be measured

at the bottom edge of the sleeve • The sleeve cuff has to be measured relaxed

ADDITONAL LENGTH / FRONT TO BACK (DROPTAIL) ON SLEEVE

• Sleeve should be placed flat in natural position so that garment is showing the correct

drop tail measurement ( as mentioned in measurement set )

• Measure the difference of front

and back in the center of back sleeve

Front to back meas is given in meas set

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SHAPED SLEEVE OPENING

• shaped sleeve opening is measured at right angle to the sleeve fold

BACK NECK WIDTH (MEAS HPS TO HPS )

• It has to be measured at the folded point (the original shoulder

point)

• straight measurement

Attention:

Shape of garment neckhole should

be pushed towards center at shoulder point, so that shape of paper pattern can be obtained

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BACK NECK WIDTH (MEAS HPS TO HPS)

• in case of collar/ hood place the measurement tape

behind the garment to get correct measurement

Attention:

Shape of garment neckline should

be pushed towards center at shoulder point so that shape of paper pattern can be obtained

FRONT NECK DROP (MEAS FROM HPS TO C.F.)

straight down perpendicularly from HPS (original shoulder point) to c.f

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FRONT NECK DROP (MEAS FROM HPS TO C.F.)

• the front neck drop has to be measured

straight down perpendicularly from HPS (original shoulder point) to c.f

• on picture you see front measure with RIB

• Binding: measurement will be taken

inclusive binding

FRONT NECK DROP (MEAS FROM HPS TO DIV SEAM)

– WITHOUT STANDARD NECKLINE

• Front neck drop has to be measured straight down perpendicularly from HPS (original shoulder point) to

lowered neckline /dividing seam and NOT to original neckline

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BACK NECK DROP (MEAS FROM HPS TO C.B.)

HPS

• the back neck drop has to be measured straight down perpendicularly from

shoulder point to center back

COLLAR: PLACKET OPENING

The placket length has to be measured without the crossbox (check measurement set)

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COLLAR: FINISHED NECK OPENING (C.F TO C.F.)

The finished neck opening has to be measured along the curved neckline - this is also

valid for hoods

! Always measure on the curved neckline! In case you have a stand part on the collar this part belongs to the collar and not

to the neckline => measure on the curved neckline seam between neckline and stand!

MINIMUM NECK OPENING STRETCHED

Stretch neckhole to the maximum without breaking the seam and measure straight from center front

to center back along neckline seam

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COLLAR LENGTH (OUTER EDGE)

• Collar length outer edge has to be measured along top edge of collar (incl zip breadth when zip

ends at top of collar)

COLLAR HEIGHT CENTER FRONT / CENTER BACK

• the front collar height has to be measured

along the edge of the collar

• the back collar height has to be measured

along the folded center back collar

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½ HOOD LENGTH / HOOD LENGTH

½ HOOD WIDTH – VALID UNTIL FW14

• Please see meas.set for exact distance where

the ½ hood width has to be measured (X cm)

• hood width has to be measured straight from

front edge of hood to center back of hood

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½ HOOD WIDTH – VALID FROM SS15

• ½ hood width is measured straight X cm (meas.set) from center back neckline upwards

• ½ hood width has to be measured straight from front edge of hood to center back of hood

SPECIAL HOODS

Please see measurement set for specific cases

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HOOD HEIGHT CENTER FRONT / HOOD NECK LINE

• Hood height center front should be measured

straight from top edge of hood to neckline of hood in

center front

• Hood neckline has to be measured along

hood neckline from center back to center front

HOOD /COLLAR HEIGHT CENTER FRONT – WITHOUT STANDARD NECKLINE

• Hood / collar height center front should be measured straight from top edge of hood / collar to lowered neckline /

dividing seam and NOT to original neckline

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1/2 HOOD LENGTH (TOP OF HOOD OPENING TO NECK SEAM)

• ½ Hood length front is measured from top of hood opening to neck seam/ dividing seam

HOOD LENGTH (MEAS ALONG MIDDLE OF PANEL TO C.B NECK)

Hood length is measured from hood opening along middle of

panel to center back neck

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HOOD HEIGHT CENTER FRONT

• Hood height center front should be measured straight from top edge to neckline / lowered neckline/ dividing

seam and NOT to original neckline at CF

LOGO MEASUREMENTS

! Pls ensure to measure

to crosspoint shoulder seam / neckline as shown on how to meas

picture and BP sketch !

•Top edge of logo to shoulder

•seam (edge of 2 nd stripe)

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BACK LENGTH

Final garment measurement

• Back length has to be measured straight from neckline to the

hem along center back

ADDITIONAL LENGTH/FRONT TO BACK (DROPTAIL)

ON

BACK LENGTH

• Garment should be placed flat in natural position, flat at underarm and at hem

so that garment is showing the correct drop tail measurement ( as mentioned in spec)

Front to back meas is given in meas.set

• Measure the difference of front and back in the center of back

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HPS – HIGH POINT SHOULDER

Drop tail as spec

The high point shoulder is an intersection point located at the highest point of the shoulder, where the natural fold of

the shoulder meets the neckline seam Garment should be placed flat in natural position, flat at underarm and at hem

so that garment is showing the correct drop tail measurement (as mentioned in meas.set)