QUY CÁCH ĐO VÀ THÔNG SỐ NGÀNH MAY BẰNG TIẾNG ANH

SECTION SECTION 15 HOW TO MEASURE KNIT TOPS JACKETS, BLOUSES, DRESSES AND OUTERWEAR SWEATERS AND CUT AND SEW Section 15 May 2015 How To Measure Knit Tops 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS CRITICAL POINTS OF MEASURE.

Trang 1

SECTION 15 HOW TO MEASURE: KNIT TOPS JACKETS, BLOUSES, DRESSES AND

OUTERWEAR SWEATERS AND CUT AND SEW

Trang 2

Section 15 May 2015

CRITICAL POINTS OF MEASUREMENT FOR KNIT TOPS: (SWEATERS AND CUT AND SEW) 7

6005 Chest Width 8

6010 Chest Width – Wrap 9

6015 Back Chest Width - Wrap – (back measurement only when wraps to the front) 10

6020 Front Chest Width - Wrap – (front measurement only when wraps to the back) 11

6025 Front Neck Wrap Edge – Symmetrical (when wrap is to the front) 12

6030 Back Neck Wrap Edge – Symmetrical (when wrap is to the back) 13

6035 Chest Width – Side seam on Side seam (use with boning or when lots of bust fullness) 14

6036 Waist Width – Side Seam on Side Seam (use with boning or when lots of fullness) 15

6040 Bodice Width 16

6045 Empire Width 17

6050 Waist Width 18

6055 Waist Width– Wrap 19

6060 High Hip-Width 20

6065 High Hip Width- Wrap 21

6070 Low Hip Width 22

6075 Low Hip Width- Wrap 23

6080 Sweep Width 24

6085 Sweep Width– Wrap 25

6090 Armhole – Depth 26

6095 Armhole to Strap Point – Front 27

6100 Armhole to Strap Point – Back 28

6105 Strap Length Front - Fold to point 29

6110 Strap Length Back - Fold to Point 30

6115 Strap Length –Total 31

6120 Armhole Depth – Raglan 32

6125 Front Neck Width - Strappy 33

6130 Front Top Edge 34

6135 Back Top Edge 35

6140 Back Neck Width - Strappy 36

6145 Sleeve Length - from Shoulder 37

6150 Sleeve Length – Raglan 38

6155 Back Neck Seam – along curve 39

6160 Back Length–from Center Neck Seam 40

6165 Back Length from Center Top Edge 41

6170 Back Length – Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 42

6175 Back Length from Strap Point 43

6180 Front Length from High Point of Shoulder Seam 44

6181 Front Length – Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 45

6185 Front Length from Center Top Edge 46

6190 Front Length from Strap Point 47

6195 Bodysuit Front Length 48

6200 Bodysuit Back Length 49

6205 Bodysuit Front Length - Thong Styled Step 1 50

6206 Bodysuit Front Length - Thong Styled Step 2 51

6210 Bodysuit Back Length - Thong Styled Step 1 52

6211 Bodysuit Back Length – Thong Styled Step 2 53

6215 Shoulder Width 54

6220 Minimum Neck Stretch 55

6225 Leg Opening Circumference - Panty 56

6230 Leg Opening Circumference - Thong 57

6230 Positioning a Bias Garment 58

Trang 3

OUTERWEAR 61

6250 Imaginary Line – at the Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 61

6255 Imaginary Line – at High Point of Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 61

6260 Imaginary Line – at Strap Point @ Seam 61

6265 Imaginary Line – at Strap Point @ Inside Point 61

6270 Shoulder Seam Position - Forward @ Neckline 62

6271 Shoulder Seam Position - Forward @ Low Point of Shoulder 62

6275 Shoulder Seam Position - Backwards @ Neckline 62

6276 Shoulder Seam Position – Backward @ Natural Low Point of Shoulder 62

6280 Yoke Height – Back @ Center 62

6285 Yoke Height – Front @ High Point of Shoulder Seam 63

6286 Yoke Height – Front @ Center 63

6290 Across Back 4” from CB NK 63

6295 Across Back 5” from NHPS 63

6300 Across Front 5 ” from HPSS 63

6305 Across Front 5” from NHPS 64

6315 Raglan Seam Position – Front Neck 64

6320 Raglan Seam Position – Back Neck 64

6325 Shoulder Slope 64

6330 Empire Seam Placement – Center Back Neck 65

6335 Bodice Placement – Center Back Neck 65

6340 Waist Placement – Center Back Neck 65

6345 High Hip Placement – Center Back Neck 65

6350 Low Hip Placement – Center Back Neck 65

6355 Seat Placement – Center Back Neck 65

6360 Empire Seam Placement – High Point of Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 66

6365 Bodice Placement – High Point of Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 66

6370 Waist Placement – High Point Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 66

6375 High Hip Placement – High Point Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 66

6380 Low Hip Placement – High Point Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 66

6385 Seat Placement – High Point Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 66

6390 Empire Seam Placement – Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 67

6395 Bodice Placement - Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 67

6400 Waist Placement – Natural High Point Shoulder (NHPS) 67

6405 High Hip Placement – Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 67

6410 Low Hip Placement – Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 67

6415 Seat Placement – Natural High Point Shoulder (NHPS) 67

6420 Empire Seam Placement – Strap Point 68

6425 Bodice Placement – Strap Point 68

6430 Waist Placement – Strap Point 68

6435 High Hip Placement – Strap Point 68

6440 Low Hip Placement – Strap Point 68

6445 Seat Placement – Strap Point 68

6450 Empire Seam Placement – Center Front – Top Edge 69

6455 Bodice Placement – Center Front Top Edge 69

6460 Waist Placement – Center Front Top Edge 69

Trang 4

Section 15 May 2015

6535 Binding Width 72

6540 Tubular Height - Self Start 72

6545 Hem Height – Blind Stitch 73

6550 Hem Height – Topstitched 73

6555 Trim Height – Set In 73

6560 Slit Opening 73

6565 Vent Opening 74

6570 Vent Width 74

6575 Cap Height 74

6580 Cap Height - sleeves with underarm seams shorter than 1 inch 74

6585 Cap Width 75

6590 Upper Arm Width (muscle) 75

6595 Forearm / Elbow Placement 75

6600 Forearm / Elbow Width 75

6605 Strap Width 75

6610 Strap Spacing – Front 76

6615 Strap Spacing – Back 76

6620 Sleeve Opening - Button Cuff 76

6625 Sleeve Opening-French Cuff 76

6630 Sleeve Opening-Hem Edge 78

6635 Sleeve Opening-Rib Knit Cuff 78

6640 Cuff Height Rib Knit 78

6645 Cuff Height – Button 78

6650 Cuff Height – French 79

6651 Cuff Height – French(for 4 button hole construction) 79

6655 Neck Width-Natural High Point of Shoulder at Neck Seam (NHPS) 79

6660 Neck Width-High Point of Shoulder Seam at Neck Seam (HPSS) 79

6665 Neck Width –Natural High Point of Shoulder at Top Edge (NHPS) 80

6670 Neck Width – High Point of Shoulder at Top Edge (HPSS) 80

6675 Front Neck Drop – Natural High Point of Shoulder to the Neck Seam (NHPS) 80

6680 Front Neck Drop – Natural High Point of Shoulder at Top Neck Edge (NHPS) 80

6685 Front V-Neck Drop – Natural High Point of Shoulder to Point at Seam (NHPS) 81 6690 Front V-Neck Drop – Natural High Point of Shoulder to Point at Top Neck Edge (NHPS) 81

6695 Front Neck Drop – at Strap Point Neck Seam 81

6700 Front Neck Drop – at Inside Strap Point to Top Neck Edge 81

6701 Front Neck Drop – at Trim Inside Edge 82

6705 Back Neck Drop – Natural High Point of Shoulder to the Neck Seam (NHPS) 82

6710 Back Neck Drop – Natural High Point of Shoulder to the Top Neck Edge (NHPS) 82 6715 Back Neck Drop – at Strap Point to the Neck Seam 82

6720 Back Neck Drop at Inside Strap Point to the Top Neck Edge 83

6721 Back Neck Drop at Trim Inside Edge 83

6725 Neck Circumference at Collar Stand 83

6730 Neck Width at Seam or Edge 83

6735 Collar Length @ Neck Seam 84

6740 Collar Length @ Top Edge 84

6745 Collar Stand Height 84

6750 Collar Height 84

6755 Collar Point 85

6760 Collar Spread 85

6765 Gorge Seam Placement 85

6770 Gorge Width 85

6775 Lapel Width 86

6780 Lapel Spread 86

6785 Lapel Point 86

6790 Notch Height 86

6795 Top Button Placement-Single Breasted Styles 86

6800 Top Button Placement-Double Breasted Styles 87

6805 Button Spacing 87

6810 Overlap Width 88

Trang 5

6820 Placket Opening – Sleeve 88

6825 Placket / Slit Length – Center Front 88

6830 Placket / Slit Length – Sleeve 88

6835 Placket Width 89

6840 Pocket Placement – Besom 89

6845 Pocket Placement – Welt 89

6846 Pocket Placement for Angled Welt 90

6850 Pocket Placement – Patch 90

6855 Pocket Placement from Center – Besom 91

6860 Pocket Placement from Center – Welt 91

6865 Pocket Placement from Center – Patch 91

6870 Pocket Height – Patch 92

6875 Pocket Height – Besom 92

6880 Pocket Height – Welt 92

6885 Pocket Opening - Patch Pocket 92

6890 Pocket Opening – Besom and Welt Pocket 93

6895 Pocket Width –Patch 93

6900 Pocket Flap Width – Top 93

6905 Pocket Flap Width – Bottom 93

6910 Pocket Flap Width @ Widest Point 94

6915 Pocket Flap Height @ Center 94

6920 Pocket Flap Height @ Side 94

6925 Belt Loop Position – HPSS 94

6930 Belt Loop Position – Center (Front /Back) 95

6935 Belt Loop Position - @ Side Seam 95

6936 Belt Loop position - @ Princess Seam 95

6940 Belt Loop Length 95

6945 Belt Loop Opening 96

6950 Belt Loop Width 96

6955 Belt Length – Tie / Sash / Drawstring 96

6960 Belt Spec Length – with Prong Buckle 96

6965 Belt Length - with Prong Buckle 96

6970 Shoe String Length – Knot 97

6975 Shoe String Length – Sealed Ends 97

6980 Belt Width 97

6985 Tie / Sash Width @ Seam 97

6990 Tie / Sash Width @ End 97

6995 Bow – Head 98

7000 Bow – Tails 98

7005 Bow – Knot 98

7010 Garment Opening 98

7010 Garment Opening – Center Front Zipper Length 99

7015 Zipper Length – Regular (purchased) 99

7020 Zipper Length – Invisible 99

7025 Hood Height - at Front Edge 99

7030 Hood Height - at Natural High Point of Shoulder 100

7035 Hood Width 100

Trang 6

Section 15 May 2015

7101 Bodysuit Hip Placement – from Strap Point 105

7102 Bodysuit Hip Placement – from Center Front – Top Edge 105

7103 Bodysuit Hip Placement – from High point of Shoulder (HPSS) 106

7105 Bodysuit Hip Width 106

7110 Front Panty Width 106

7115 Back Panty Width 107

7120 Crotch Width 107

7125 Front Panty Placement-from Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 107

7126 Front Panty Placement – From High Point of Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 107

7127 Front Panty Placement – from Strap Point 108

7128 Front Panty Placement – from Center Front Top Edge 108

7130 Back Panty Placement-from Natural High Point of Shoulder 108

7131 Back Panty Placement – from Strap Point 109

7132 Back Panty Placement – from Center Top edge 109

7135 Stripe Placement – Horizontal-HPSS 109

7136 Panty Height Front 110

7137 Panty Height Back 110

7138 Panty Height at Side Seam 110

7140 Cami-Shelf Bra Width at band 111

7142 Cami-Shelf Bra Height at Center Front 111

7143 Cami-Shelf Bra Height at Center Back 112

7144 Cami-Shelf Bra Height at Side 112

Trang 7

CRITICAL POINTS OF MEASUREMENT FOR KNIT TOPS: (SWEATERS AND CUT AND SEW)

Critical measuring points in this “How to Measure Manual” are written in the view of the person measuring

Measurer should make sure that the measuring tape markings (increments) are on the line of measurement

Measurer will round down when measurement is between tape markings (increments)

Measurer should always measure and record the wearer’s right side of the garment

Measurer should measure and compare the wearer’s left side of the garment to the Wearer’s right side of the garment

Measurer should only record the wearer’s left side of the garment when it is out of tolerance This is to be recorded as a Visual / Construction Defect during Inspection

The sketches used to illustrate these measuring methods are inter-changeable between the following product categories: jackets, outerwear, cut and sew tops, dresses and sweater knits

The “Garment Set Up Positions” is also inter-changeable due to product categories, physical and environmental conditions However there are mandatory set-ups for the measuring of the wearer’s right side of the garment and will be noted in the write up

The numbering in this manual will coincide with the numbering of the Garment Specification Packages The 4 digit numbers indicate the measurer should reference this manual, while 3 digit numbers indicate the measurer should reference the original manual dated 1997

Trang 8

Section 15 May 2015

6005 Chest Width

Garment Set Up:

Position the garment face up on the table, neckline

to the left side of the measurer, center front line of

the garment is parallel to the edge of the table

Garment is in easy reach of the measurer

Align the bottom of the armhole front to back

(squaring the armholes at the underarm) removing

any wrinkles

Ease out wrinkles found above the underarm toward

the top of the garment

Ease out wrinkles found below the armhole toward

the bottom of the armhole

Remove wrinkles without stretching the garment

Mark the points of measurement starting from the

base of the armhole or below edge of binding 1”

down on the right and left sides of the garment

Measuring Method:

Position the measurement tape on the side closest

to the measurer, at the marked measurement point

Hold measurement tape in position with the left

hand

Grasp the measurement tape with the right hand

moving it toward the opposite side of the garment

table edge

Stop at ½ the distance toward the opposite side of

the garment

Reposition the left hand to the right hand position

move it toward the opposite side of the garment

Stop at the marked measurement position

Read the measurement off the tape

Do Not Double the measurement

Record the measurement

Trang 9

6010 Chest Width – Wrap

Garment Set Up:

Position the garment face up on the table

Neckline is to the left side of the measurer Center

front line of the garment is parallel to the edge of the

table Garment is in easy reach of the measurer

Mark overlaps at waist and sweep based on

specification sheet requirements

Pin garment to the overlap marks at waist and

sweep

(squaring the armholes at underarm) removing any

wrinkles

table edge

the top of the garment Ease out wrinkles found

below the armhole toward the bottom of the

garment

Note: Pay attention to the starting point The

starting point can be either from the center back

neck, the high point of shoulder seam (HPSS) or

natural high point of shoulder (NHPS)

table edge

Measuring Method:

Position measuring tape on the side closet to the

measurer, at the marked measurement point

Hold position in place with left hand

Grasp the measuring tape in the right hand moving

it toward the opposite side of the garment

the garment

Note: Smooth out any fullness in the garment with

your fingertips as you extend the measuring tape

table edge

Hold in place with left hand

Grasp the measuring tape with the right hand

Trang 10

Section 15 May 2015

measurement only when wraps to the front)

Garment Set Up:

Position the garment on the table, open and untied

with the back of the garment face up The hem may

be hanging over the edge of the table

Neckline to the left side of the measurer, center

table

Measuring Method:

hand

table edge

BACK

FRONT

Note: Smooth out any fullness with your fingertips

as you move across the garment

Stop ½ the distance between the two marked

measurement points

table edge

FRONT

BACK

and move it toward the opposite side of the

garment

Stop at the marked measurement point on the right

side seam of the garment

Trang 11

6020 Front Chest Width - Wrap –

(front measurement only when wraps to the back)

Garment Set Up:

Position the garment on the table, open and untied

with the front of the garment face up The hem may

hang over the edge of the table

table

Measuring Method:

hand

BACK

FRONT

table edge

Stop ½ the distance between the two marked

measurement points

table edge

BACK

FRONT

and move it toward the opposite side of the

garment

Stop at the marked measurement point on the right

side seam of the garment

Trang 12

Section 15 May 2015

6025 Front Neck Wrap Edge –

Symmetrical (when wrap is to the

front)

Garment Set Up:

Position garment on the table untied neckline to the

left and in easy reach of measurer

Align the high point of shoulder seams one on top of

the other creating a center back neck fold

Align the front neck wraps right side on top of left

side from shoulder seam to waist (including tie

Place measuring tape at the shoulder seam and

neck edge (if binding place below binding)

Hold measuring tape in position with the left hand

Grasp the measuring tape in the right hand

Move measuring tape following the front neck wrap

edge toward the waist

Stop half the distance toward the waist

table edge

CENTER BACK

Reposition left hand to right hand position

Grasp the measuring tape in the right hand continue

following the top front neck wrap edge

Stop at the top neck wrap edge and waist corner or

Trang 13

6030 Back Neck Wrap Edge –

Garment Set Up:

Position garment on the table untied neckline to the

left and in easy reach of measurer

Align the high point of shoulder seams one on top of

the other creating a center front fold

Align the back neck wrap edges right side on top of

left side from shoulder seam to waist (including tie

ends)

table edge

BACK CENTER FRONT

Measuring Method:

Place measuring tape at the shoulder seam and

neck edge (if binding place below binding)

Move measuring tape following the back neck wrap

edge toward the waist

Stop half the distance toward the waist

table edge

BACK

CENTER FRONT

Reposition left hand to right hand position

Grasp the measuring tape in the right hand and

continue following the top back neck wrap edge

Stop at the top neck wrap edge and waist corner or

Trang 14

Section 15 May 2015

6035 Chest Width – Side seam on

Side seam (use with boning or when

lots of bust fullness)

Garment Set Up:

to the left side of the measurer Center front line of

Align the side seams wearer’s right on top of

wearer’s left, creating center front and back folds

Keep the chest of the garment positioned in easy

reach of the measurer

base of the armhole or from below edge of binding

1” down on the side seam of the garment

table edge

CENTER FRONT

CENTER BACK

Measuring Method:

Place the measuring tape in the right hand Position

it at the marked chest measurement point

Grasp the measuring tape in the left-hand Allow

measuring tape to slide through the right hand

Smooth out any fullness in the garment with your

finger as you extend measuring tape in a straight

line toward the side edge of the garment closest to

the measurer

Square the edge of the measuring tape with the

center back folded edge of the garment

table edge

CENTER BACK

CENTER FRONT

Grasp measuring tape in the right hand, moving it in

a straight line toward the center front folded edge of

the garment farthest from the measurer

Square the edge of the measuring tape with the

center front folded edge of the garment

fingertips Stop at the side edge of the garment

farthest from the measurer

Note: Styles with boning allow the garment to come up

(roll up) due to the binding stiffness

Trang 15

6036 Waist Width – Side Seam on

Side Seam (use with boning or when

lots of fullness)

Garment Set Up:

Note: In order to use this measuring method waist

placement must be given from center front neck

Edge POM #1460

Position the garment on the table, fastened closed,

with the neckline to the left side of the measurer

Align the side seams wearer’s right on top of

wearer’s left, creating center front and back folds

Keep the waist of the garment positioned in easy

reach of the measurer

Mark the point of measurement starting from the

center front top neck edge

CENTER BACK

table edge

CENTER FRONT

Measuring Method:

Place the measuring tape in the right hand Position

it at the marked waist measurement point

Note: The flat edge of the tape measure should be

squared against the center front folded edge of the

garment

Grasp the measuring tape in the left hand Allow

measuring tape to slide through the right hand, in a

straight line toward the side seam of the garment,

while keeping the flat edge of the tape measure

squared against the folded edge of the garment

finger as you extend the measuring tape

table edge

CENTER BACK CENTER FRONT

Grasp the measuring tape in the left-hand Allow

measuring tape to slide through the right hand, in a

straight line toward the center back of the garment

Trang 16

Section 15 May 2015

6040 Bodice Width

Garment Set Up:

any wrinkles

the bottom of the garment

table edge

Measuring Method:

Position the measurement tape on the side edge

and bodice seam intersection, closest to the

measurer

hand

Move the tape toward the opposite side of the

garment, following the bodice seam shape

the garment

table edge

garment, following the bodice seam shape

Stop at the side edge of garment

Trang 17

6045 Empire Width

Garment Set Up:

any wrinkles

table edge

Measuring Method:

Position the measurement tape on the side edge

and empire seam intersection, closest to the

measurer

hand

garment, following the empire seam shape

the garment

table edge

garment, following the empire seam shape

Stop at the side edge of garment

Trang 18

Section 15 May 2015

6050 Waist Width

Garment Set Up:

Position garment face up on the table

Neckline to the left side of the measurer, center front

line of garment is parallel to the edge of the garment

wrinkles

table edge

Mark waist, high hip, low hip and seat points of

measurement based on the specification sheet

directions

Note: Pay attention to the starting point The starting

point can be either from the center back neck, the

high point of shoulder seam (HPSS) or natural high

point of shoulder (NHPS)

table edge

Measuring Method:

Position measuring tape at the marked waist

measurement point in the center of the garment

Hold position in place with right hand

Grasp the measuring tape in the left hand

Allow measuring tape to slide through the right hand

Extend measuring tape in a straight line toward the

side edge of the garment closest to the measurer

Align the edge of the measuring tape with the left

side edge of the garment

table edge

Move the tape in a straight line toward the opposite

Stop at the side edge of the garment farthest from the

measurer

Trang 19

6055 Waist Width– Wrap

Garment Set Up:

front line of the dress is parallel to the edge of the

table Garment is in easy reach of the measurer

sweep

wrinkles

table edge

directions

Note: Pay attention to the starting point The starting

point can be either from the center back neck, the

high point of shoulder seam (HPSS) or natural high

point of shoulder (NHPS)

Measuring Method:

Position measuring tape at the marked waist

measurement point in the center of the garment

table edge

Grasp the measuring tape in the left hand

Allow measuring tape to slide through the right hand

table edge

Trang 20

Section 15 May 2015

6060 High Hip-Width

Garment Set Up:

front line of garment is parallel to the edge of the

garment

wrinkles

Ease out wrinkles found above the underarms

toward the top of the garment

directions

table edge

Measuring Method:

Take the measuring tape in the right hand

Place the right hand, at the marked high hip

measurement position in the center of the garment

Grasp the measuring tape in left-hand

Allow the measuring tape to slide through the right

hand

side edge of the garment closest to the measurer

table edge

Align the edge of the measuring tape with the side

edge of the garment closest to the measurer

Stop at the side edge of the garment farthest from

the measurer

Record the measurement

table edge

Trang 21

6065 High Hip Width- Wrap

Garment Set Up:

Position the garment face up on the table Neckline

is to the left side of the measurer

Center front line of the dress is parallel to the edge

of the table Garment in easy reach of the measurer

specification sheet requirements Pin garment to the

overlap marks at waist and sweep

wrinkles

Ease out wrinkles found above the underarms

toward the top of the garment Ease out wrinkles

found below the armhole toward the bottom of the

garment Remove wrinkles without stretching the

garment

directions

table edge

Measuring Method:

Take the measuring tape in the right hand Place

the right hand, at the marked high hip measurement

position in the center of the garment Hold position

in place with right hand

Grasp the measuring tape in left-hand Allow the

side edge of the garment closet to the measurer

your fingertips as you extend the measuring tape

table edge

edge of the garment closest to the measurer

Hold in place with left hand Grasp the measuring

tape with the right hand

Trang 22

Section 15 May 2015

6070 Low Hip Width

Garment Set Up:

The imaginary line (at the natural high point of the

shoulder) should be parallel to the edge of the table

wrinkles

directions

Measuring Method:

Position it at the marked low hip measurement point

in the center of the garment Hold in place with right

hand

Grasp the measuring tape in the left-hand Allow the

table edge

left side edge of the garment

Stop at the right side edge of the garment

table edge

Trang 23

6075 Low Hip Width- Wrap

Garment Set Up:

Position the garment face up on the table Neckline

is to the left side of the measurer

Center front line of the dress is parallel to the edge

of the table Garment is in easy reach of the

measurer

specification sheet requirements Pin garment to the

overlap marks at waist and sweep

wrinkles

the top of the garment Ease out wrinkles found

below the armhole toward the bottom of the

garment

table edge

directions

Measuring Method:

Position it at the marked low hip measurement point

in the center of the garment Hold in place with right

hand

Grasp the measuring tape in the left-hand Allow the

measuring tape to slide through the right hand

table edge

edge of the garment closest to the measurer

Hold in place with left hand table edge

Trang 24

Section 15 May 2015

6080 Sweep Width

Garment Set Up:

wrinkles

Measuring Method:

Place the measuring tape on the side edge of the

garment at bottom hem to the left of the measurer

Move the measurement tape in a straight line

toward the opposite side of the garment

Stop ½ the distance to the opposite side of the

garment

Hold in place with the left hand

Move it in a straight line toward the opposite side of

the garment

Stop at the opposite side of the garment and bottom

hem edge

Note: Sweep is always a straight-line measurement

Do not follow the bottom shape of the garment hem

table edge

Trang 25

6085 Sweep Width– Wrap

Garment Set Up:

table

sweep

wrinkles

table edge

Measuring Method:

Place the measuring tape on the side edge of the

garment at bottom hem closest to the measurer

Move the measurement tape in a straight line

Stop ½ the distance to the opposite side of the

garment

Hold in place with the left hand

Move it in a straight line toward the opposite side of

the garment

Stop at the opposite side of the garment and bottom

hem edge

Trang 26

Section 15 May 2015

6090 Armhole – Depth

Garment Set Up:

Position the garment face up on the table with the

neckline to the left of the measurer

The side seam of the garment should be close to

the edge of the table

Measure the armhole closest and in easy reach of

the measurer

wrinkles

Wrinkles found above the underarm ease out

Wrinkles found below the armhole ease out toward

Maintain armhole curve by gently smoothing out any

wrinkles on the body side of the garment

Note: Some wrinkles may still be apparent on the

sleeve side of the garment

Measuring Method:

Using the straight-line method of measure place the

measuring tape at the natural low point of the

shoulder

table edge

Note: Natural low point of the shoulder is always

found at the center of the sleeve cap

It is not always the shoulder seam

Pay attention to style detail

Grasp measuring tape with the right hand

Move it in a straight line toward the bottom of the

armhole

Stop at the armhole / side seam intersections of the

garment

Trang 27

6095 Armhole to Strap Point –

Front

Garment Set Up:

the measurer

wrinkles

Maintain armhole curve by gently smoothing out

any wrinkles on the body side of the garment

table edge

Measuring Method:

Position measuring tape on the armhole at the

armhole / side seam intersections (below the

binding / trim edge)

Move it in a straight line toward the neckline

stopping at the neckline / armhole intersections

below edge of binding / trim (inside point)

Note: Pattern makers must be made aware that this

measuring method will not reflect pattern

dimensions when styling calls for binding on

necklines and armholes

Trang 28

Section 15 May 2015

6100 Armhole to Strap Point – Back

Garment Set Up:

Position the garment face down on the table with

the neckline to the right of the measurer

the measurer

wrinkles

Maintain armhole curve by gently smoothing out any

wrinkles on the body side of the garment

table edge

Measuring Method:

Position measuring tape on the armhole at the

armhole / side seam intersections (below the

binding / trim edge)

Move it in a straight line toward the neckline

stopping at the neckline / armhole intersections

below edge of binding / trim (inside point)

Trang 29

6105 Strap Length Front - Fold to

point

Garment Set Up:

to the left side of the measurer

Position the measuring tape on the top front point

where the strap joins the body at the seam or below

binding (inside point)

Hold measuring tape in position with the right hand

Grasp the measuring tape in the left hand; extend it

in a straight line on the strap to the top front folded

edge of the strap

Note: Measurer should be sure the markings on the

measuring tape (increments) are facing the center

of garment

Trang 30

Section 15 May 2015

6110 Strap Length Back - Fold to

Point

Garment Set Up:

Position garment face down on table with the

neckline to the right of the measurer

Align the bottom of the armhole back to front

wrinkles

Arrange the strap closest to the measurer back on

top of front, extending the straps without stretching

table edge

Measuring Method:

Position the measuring tape on the point where

strap joins body, below binding (inside point.) or at

seam

Hold the measuring tape in position with the left

hand

Grasp the measuring tape in the right hand; extend

it in a straight line on the top back folded edge of the

strap

Note: Measurer should be sure the markings on the

measuring tape (increments) are facing the center

of garment

Trang 31

6115 Strap Length –Total

Garment Set Up:

Position the garment face up on the table, with the

Arrange the strap closest to the measurer front on

top of back starting at the intersection where the

straps are attached to the garment neckline

Extend the straps without stretching

Note: Garments with cross over strap styling,

measure from the point of attachment (inside point)

to the opposite point of attachment (inside point)

table edge

CENTER FRONT

Measuring Method:

Position the measuring tape on the strap, at the

intersection where the straps are attached to the

garment neckline

Hold the measuring tape in position with the right

hand

Grasp the measuring tape in the in the left hand

Extend the measuring tape in a straight line on the

strap

Stop at the folded edge at the top of the strap

Double the measurement

Note: For styles with cross over styling the tape

measure increments (markings) are facing the

center on the front side of the garment but will be on

the outside edge on the back

necklines and armholes

Trang 32

Section 15 May 2015

6120 Armhole Depth – Raglan

Garment Set Up:

Position garment front face up on the table

Armhole should be in easy reach of the measurer

(squaring the base of the armhole)

Maintain armhole curve by gently smoothing away

any wrinkles

Locate the center front neck

This is the middle between the back armhole seams

Measuring Method:

Position the measuring tape at the center front neck

On neck seam when there is a collar or

Below binding or

Top edge when there is a bend back finish

Hold measuring tape in place with left hand

Grasp measuring tape with the right hand moving it

in a straight line toward the underarm / side seam

intersection

Stop measuring tape at the underarm / side seam

intersection

Trang 33

6125 Front Neck Width - Strappy

(For garments with front armhole)

Garment Set Up:

Remove any wrinkles from the neckline area with

out stretching the garment

The neckline area should be in easy reach of the

measurer

table edge

Measuring Method:

Position measuring tape on the garment at the point

where the strap is attached to the garment and the

armhole edge (outside edge of strap)

Grasp the measuring tape with the right hand,

moving it in a straight line across the garment

Stop at the point where the strap is attached to the

garment and the armhole edge (outside edge of the

strap)

Trang 34

Section 15 May 2015

6130 Front Top Edge

(Side seam to side seam)

Garment Set Up:

Remove any wrinkles from the back neckline area

The front neckline area should be in easy reach of

the measurer

table edge

Measuring Method:

Position the measuring tape on the garment at the

side seam closest to the measurer and the top edge

of the neckline

Move the tape along the top edge of the neckline,

across the garment toward the opposite side

following the shape

the garment

table edge

following the shape

Stop on the side seam and top neckline edge of the

garment

Trang 35

6135 Back Top Edge

[Side seam to side seam]

Garment Set Up:

Position the garment face down on the table,

neckline to the left side of the measurer

The back neckline area should be in easy reach of

the measurer

table edge

Measuring Method:

Position the measuring tape on the garment at the

side seam closest to the measurer and the top edge

of the neckline

the garment

Move the tape along the top edge across the

garment toward the opposite side of the garment

Stop on the side seam and top neckline edge of the

garment

table edge

Trang 36

Section 15 May 2015

6140 Back Neck Width - Strappy

(For garments with back armhole)

Garment Set Up:

neckline to the left side of the measurer

The back neckline area should be in easy reach of

the measurer

table edge

Measuring Method:

Position measuring tape on the garment at the point

where the strap is attached to the garment and the

armhole edge (outside edge of strap)

Move it in a straight line across the garment toward

the opposite side of the garment

Stop at the point where the strap is attached to the

garment and the armhole edge (outside edge of the

strap)

Trang 37

6145 Sleeve Length - from Shoulder

Garment Set Up:

Position the wearer’s right sleeve closest to the

measurer on the table extending it out to its full

length without stretching

table edge

Measuring Methods:

Position the measuring tape at the natural low point

of shoulder and the armhole seam

Hold measuring tape in position with the left hand

Note: Natural low point of the shoulder is always

found at the center of the sleeve cap

It is not always the shoulder seam

Pay attention to style detail

moving it in a straight line toward the end of the

sleeve opening, at the centerfold

Stop approximately ½ the distance toward the

bottom of the sleeve opening

Note: Keep the measuring tape straight while

measuring Do not follow the folded edge of the

sleeve cap

moving it toward the sleeve opening

Stop at the bottom hem / cuff edge on front fold of

sleeve

table edge

Trang 38

Section 15 May 2015

6150 Sleeve Length – Raglan

Garment Set Up:

Position garment face down on the table

The imaginary line, at the natural high point of the

shoulder, should be parallel to the edge of the table

in easy reach of the measurer

Position the wearer’s right sleeve on the table

extending it out to its full length without stretching

Locate the center back neck

This is the middle between the back armhole

Seam for–garments with collars

Below binding (inside edge)

Top edge –garments with turn (bend) back

finish

Hold measuring tape in place with right hand

Grasp the measuring tape with the left hand moving

it in a straight line toward the bottom hem of sleeve /

cuff, at the centerfold

Stop approximately ½ the distance toward the

bottom of the sleeve opening

table edge

Reposition right hand to left hand position

Grasp measuring tape with the left hand Move the

measuring tape in a straight line

Stop at the bottom hem of sleeve / cuff, on the

centerfold

Trang 39

6155 Back Neck Seam – along curve

Garment Set Up:

Position garment face down on the table, buttons

open, with back neck seam in easy reach of the

measurer with the balance of the garment hanging

off the edge of the table

Open the neckline area exposing the complete back

neck seam

Do not stretch the seam

Allow it to lay flat on the table in its’ natural curved

shape

Do not straighten it out

table edge

Measuring Method:

Position the edge of the measuring tape on the body

side of the garment at the left shoulder / neckline

seam intersection

it along seam following the neckline shape toward

the right side shoulder / neckline seam intersection

Stop at the center back neck collar seam (or center

back garment seam)

table edge

it along seam following the neckline shape

Stop at the right side shoulder / neckline seam

intersection

Trang 40

Section 15 May 2015

6160 Back Length–from Center Neck

Seam

Garment Set Up:

neckline to the left side of the measurer, center back

line of the garment is parallel to the edge of the

table

Remove any wrinkles without stretching the

garment

Note: For Wrap Styled garments:

Always measure with wrap side face up

Measuring Method:

Position the measuring tape on the center back

neck at:

Seam for–garments with collars

Below binding (inside edge)

Top edge –garments with turn (bend) back

finish

moving it in a straight line toward the bottom hem of

the garment

Stop approximately ½ the distance to the bottom

hem of the garment

table edge

Grasp the measuring tape with the right hand and

continue in a straight line toward the bottom hem of

the garment

Stop at the bottom hem edge / cuff

NOTE: Pattern-makers must be made aware that

this measuring method will not reflect pattern

dimensions when styling call for binding on

Tiêu đề	Quy Cách Đo Và Thông Số Ngành May Bằng Tiếng Anh
Trường học	Unknown University
Chuyên ngành	Textile Engineering / Garment Technology
Thể loại	Guide/Manual
Năm xuất bản	Unknown
Thành phố	Unknown City

Định dạng
Số trang	112
Dung lượng	8,22 MB