Do cfl trfl xen ke vdi cac dan tdc anh em nhfl Mfldng, Kinh (Viet) nen ddng bao Dao trong xa V5 Mieu da tfl lau cd mdi quan he dan tdc gdn gfli. Trong giai doan hien nay, sfl tiep th[r]
Trang 168 Nghien cdu Dong Nam A 6/2009
Nu phuc truyen thong va vj trf cua no trong ddi song cua ngudi Dao Quan Chet (Nghien curu d xa Vo Mieu huyen Thanh Sdn, tmh Phu Tho)
TRAN THU HIEU*
Ngfldi Dao d Viet Nam la mdt trong
nhflng dan tgc thieu so' cd nhieu
nhdm dia phfldng van hoa da dang va
phong phfl Trong cac nhdm Dao d Viet
Nam thi ngfldi Dao Quan Chet cfl trfl chu
yeu d tinh Vinh Phflc, Phfl Thg, Hoa Binh,
Ha Tay, Thai Nguyen d Thanh
Sdn-Phfl Thg, ngfldi Dao Quan Chet la mdt
trong 4 dan tgc chu yeu cua huyen sau
ngUdi Mudng, Viet va Hmdng Ngoai ra, d
day cdn cd ngUdi Tay, Thai, Hoa, Cao
Lan NgUdi Dao Qudn Chet xa Vo Mieu
hien nay cd khoang 594 ngUdi (chiem
khoang 5,2% dan so' toan xa)
Do cfl trfl xen ke vdi cac dan tdc anh em
nhfl Mfldng, Kinh (Viet) nen ddng bao
Dao trong xa V5 Mieu da tfl lau cd mdi
quan he dan tdc gdn gfli Trong giai doan
hien nay, sfl tiep thu va dnh hfldng van
boa gifla cac dan tgc da lam cho nhflng
yeu to' van hoa truyen thong ngay mgt
thay ddi Qua bai viet nay chflng tdi mud'n
gidi thieu ve nhflng thanh td'va chflc nang
cua bg trang phuc nfl truyen thdng cua
ngfldi Dao Qudn Chet qua nghien cflu d xa
Vd Mieu huyen Thanh Sdn, tinh Phfl Thg
va vi tri ciia bd nfl phuc trong cac boat dgng cua ddi sd'ng tinh than cita ddng bao ndi day Ben canh dd cflng neu len nhflng sfl thay ddi trong tap quan mac cua ddng bao hien nay
T r a n g phuc nuf
• Bg nd phuc
Bg nfl phuc cua ngfldi Dao Quan Chet
xa Vo Mieu, huyen Thanh Sdn, tinh Phfl Thg gdm nhflng yeu to' nhfl khan ddi ddu,
ao, yem, quan, xa cap va that Iflng
Khdn dgi dau (goong dia); Khan dgi
dau cd 2 loai, loai thfl nha't la khan khdng
cd hoa van trang trf, mau cham, dai khoang 180 - 200 cm, rdng khoang 30 cm Khan nay dflng de quan ben trong va thfldng ddi hang ngay
Loai khan thfl hai ggi la goong pd, cd
theu nhieu hoa van trang tri vdi cac mau sac sac sd, dUcic dflng de qua'n ra ben
* NOV Trcin Thu Hieu, Vien Dan toe hoc
Trang 2Trdn Thu Uicii - Nd phuc truven thiing vd vi Iri eiia nd trong did siing 69
ngoai k h a n goong dia Goong pd cd nen 15 cm, rdng 10 cm Phfa tren p h a n vai dap
mau c h a m , dai khoiing 45 cm, rong cd t h e u 2 h a n g hoa van hinh chfl' t h a p
khoang 40 cm Toan bg m a t k h a n deu ngoiic va hai h a n g hoa van nay phai so le
theu kfn cac hoa tiet hoa van vdi chi nhieu nhau Phia t r e n nfla cd then hoa van hinh
mau, mep k h a n cd dinh cac qua bdng mau cay thdng each dieu, b a n g cbi man do,
vang va dd de t r a n g tri Goong pd dflde dgi vang, t r a n g xen ke n h a u Gifla cac gdc ciiy
vao ngay cfldi, trong djp t h u le cap sac cua thong each dieu cd t r a n g tri cac hinh theu
chdng minh dang t a m giac (nhd b a n g hiit ngd) man do
iio (liii dao); ao cua phu nfl Dao Qudn rat hai hoa va dep mdt Gau vat ao sau
Chet d xa Vo Mieu thucic loiii ko dai, mau cflng dugc t r a n g tri ckc hoa van nbu vay
cham, md ngflc, xe ta, khong cd khuy, Sau Iflng ao, tfl cd xudng khoang 10 - 15
khong cd day huge, cd ne]) cd (lui leng), dai cm, cd t r a n g tri md lip hoa van hinh cay
den chii'm got chan T h a n sau la hai manh ^hdng va chim each dieu, dinh dai tua
vai ghc3i) Ifii vdi n h a u bdi dfldng k h a u gifla mau Do ldn cua mo tip boa van nay rong
sd'ng Iflng, dUdc k h a u veil t h a n trfldc tfl vai khoang mcit hiin tay ggi lii tdm picng
tdi nach (dai k h o a n g 25 cm), xe ta xudng Theo cac nha nghien cflu ve t r a n g phuc
bet t h a n ao ngfldi Dao thi cho r a n g diiy lii ciii an cua
/-,-' - rr'' - ' 1- 1 , i • u - • Ban Vfldng
Co ao; Co ao co d m h tua, dudc theu va *^
diip viii mau khii c-iu ky, thfldng da]) viii Nhflng phan xe cua iio, co lay ga'u deu
miiu dd, den vdi chi kliiiu miiu trdng ni'ii ditcic vien vai kbiic mau ri phia trong, vdi
ndi \cn n i l rd ret Ngu'di mdt tinh cd the muc dich lam cho vat ao dflcic cflng ciip va
nhin Ihii'y ditdng khiui ndi tren viii chay tfl' dep hdn
cd ao xud'ng tdi gii'u ao Khi mac, ta iio dflde budng xudi trong
Niich do; ao khong khoet iiiich, cd theu nhflng tru'dng hdp giao te theo le nghi,
hoa van hinh con ret diii khoang 5 -7 cm phong tuc nhfl dam cfldi, trong lflc don
de len difdng khiui gifla Ihiin trfldc va dau ve, lflc te Id hdng hoac trong dam
thim sau, cd dinh chflni 3 qua bdng vdi chay, cflng Ban Vfldng Cdn trong smh
nhicu mau sdc ' boat thfldng ngay, djp tet, hgi he hoac khi
Vgt do; Hat viit trifdc thifdng ngdn hdn ^'^^ ^ ^ " g va lam viec phu nfl thifdng gidt
Viit sail khoang 15 cm (^d t r a n g tri hoa ^?t ao vao t h a t Iflng cho ggn ghe va t h u a n
van va dap viii m a u d gii'u vat ao trifdc va
'•^?"-vat iio sau Cu the, d mdi ben '•^?"-vat ao Iru'dc Yem (lui ton); Yem cdn dugc ggi la iio
difdc chia lam 3 phdn deu n h a u de dap vai con che ngUc, mac d ben trong ao dai (/;/;
dd Vii trdng Vat sau dflcic chia thiinh 5 cfao) Yem cua ngifdi Dao Quan Chet d diiy
phan cflng dii]) vai luiiu nhif vat trfldc, dflcic lam tfl sdi bdng nhugm chain, hinh
chieii cao cim mdi miinb viii dii]) khoang chfl nhiit, mdi canh chii 28 vii 30 cm Hiu
Trang 370 Nghien cdu Dong Nam A 6/2009
ben nach yem cd dap 2 m a n h vai h i n h t a m
giac, d hai gdc cua t a m giac dd cd dinh day
huge vao Iflng Day cd yem dflde k h a u
b a n g vai m a u dd h i n h chfl V cd day
k h o a n g 7 cm, vien chi m a u Hai ddu chfl V
dd cd dinh day huge vdng r a s a u cd Cac
canh cua yem dflde vien b a n g vai t r a n g d
gifla ngflc yem cd dap mgt m a n h vdi h i n h
chfl nhat, mdt canh sat vdi day day cd
hinh chfl V cd dinh nhieu h a n g k h u y t a u
lien n h a u ggi la lui khdu T r e n h a n g k h u y
dd cd dinh hai bfl bac (im) gid'ng nhfl h a i
h i n h b a n cau ldi b a n g bac, dfldng k i n h
k h d a n g 5 cm Chflc n a n g cua chiec yem
vfla de n a n g p h a n ngflc vfla de lam dep va
gifl a'm chd nhflng bg p h a n q u a n trgng cua
cd the Cd the tha'y r a n g nhflng t r a n g trf
t r e n m a t yem k h a cau ky vdi n h i e u chi tiet
khac n h a u
Dang chfl y la ddi vdi nhflng ngfldi gia,
yem cdn dflde dap t h e m mdt m a n h vai dai
k h o a n g 15 - 20 cm de che p h d n b u n g va
rdn
Qudn {tdy hdu); Q u a n cua p h u nfl Dao
Q u a n Chet d day lam b a n g vai tfl det
n h u d m cham Q u a n chf dai tdi bap chan,
dflde cat may theo kieu bd dflng Dflng
dflcic ghep bdi mdt mieng vai h i n h t a m
giac hoac vai h i n h chfl n h a t gap cheo theo
mdi niia mgt ben dflng k h d n g cd dfldng
k h a u Cap qudn cd dai rut, dng r a t hep bd
sat vao b a p c h a n nhUng dflng lai rdng nen
r a i t h u a n tien t r o n g lao ddng va sinh
boat Ga'u q u a n dUdc dap vai cd t r a n g trf
hoa van Ciia d'ng q u a n dUdc t h e u vien
b a n g chi dd, vang, cd dinh t u a hoac chflm
qua bdng d mdi ben d'ng q u d n
Xd cap (trdu keo); B a n g vai m a u
t r a n g , thUdng l a m tfl vai phin t r a n g ,
h i n h t a m giac n h g n (duoi nheo) dai
k h o a n g 80 cm, rdng k h o a n g 30 cm, cd vien vai dd, d c a n h dai nha't cd d i n h 2 sdi day
t r a n g de l a m day budc khi di xa cap Nhflng c a n h k h a c cua xa cap cflng dflde
k h a u vien mep cho vai k h d n g bi sd scii Xa cap dflde cud'n tfl cd c h a n trd len de'n sat ddu gdi thi huge lai, ga'u q u a n se dflde trflm r a ngoai xa cap Khi cud'n, d a t mep vai t r a n g vao trong, m e p vai t h e u de ra ben ngoai
Thdt lUng (cobng); Gdm hai chiec, mdt
chiec b a n g vai c h a m , chiec kia b a n g vai lua dd hoac x a n h , m a n chin Mdi chiec dai k h o a n g 3 - 4 m, r d n g k h o a n g 30 cm Khi huge t h a t Iflng dflcic qua'n 2 - 3 vdng
q u a n h bting, h a i ddu de thdng, mdt dai thdng phfa trfldc, mdt dai t h d n g phfa sau Iflng, thdng nifa vdng c u n g d hen hdng
D a n g chu y la ngfldi Dao d day khdng
t r a n g trf hoa van
Cflng gid'ng nhfl d p h u nfl Thai, nhin
vao each hg bfli tdc (tdng cdu) cd t h e n h a n
biet r a n g ngfldi dd cd gia d i n h h a y chfla thi d ngfldi Dao Q u a n Chet, tfl cac dai
t h a t Iflng nay, ngfldi t a cd t h e de dang
p h a n biet gifla nhflng cd gai chfla chdng vdi nhflng chi, nhflng b a d a cd gia dinh Ngfldi cd chdng chi t h d t mdt day Iflng, cdn nhflng cd gai chfla chdng t r o n g cac dip le hgi t h a t tdi 2 - 3 chiec, mdi chiec mdt mau sac k h a c n h a u
• Do trang sdc nd
Trang 4Trdn Thu Hicn - Nd phuc truyen thdng vd vi Iri ciia nd trong ddi sdng 71
Bd t r a n g sfle cua p h u nfl Dao Q u a n
Chet d day gdm cd vdng cd, k h u y e n tai,
vdng tay
Vong cd: Gdm hai loai, loai thfl n h a l
ggi la chiem vdn lam b a n g bac, udn theo
binh trdn va cd n h i e u cd to nhd khac
nhau, nhflng cd dac diem la hai ddu giao
nhau Vdi loai nay p h u nfl thfldng deo tfl 2
de'n 3 ddi, xep theo dUdng kinh ldn dan
Loai thfl bai ggi la chdu chi lii nhflng
chuoi h a t b a n g nhiia m a u t r a n g , nhd bang
nfla hat gao nep, dflde xau vao t h a n h
chudi, deo s a t cd, cudn t h a n h nhieu vdng
thfldng tfl 3 den 4 vong
Khuyen tai {jam); Lam l)ang bac, cd
hinh vdng trdn, difdng kinb 1 - 1,5 cm,
nigl dau vudt nhd, mcit dim xoan oc de
long dau kia vao khi deo cho khcii hi rdi
Nhan (mu gieng); Difdc liiin biing mcit
mieng bac hinh cliu nhiit, rong khoang 1
cm, udn cong t h a n h hinh trdn Tren mat
nhan dflde t r a n g trf boa van hinh xfldng
ca, binh hoa day
Xd tich (nhdn thao); Bao gom nhieu
scii day bdng bac cliuih theo kicu xfldng ca
Dau tren cua ciic sdi dudc mdc c h u n g vao
mdt chiec vdng nhd vii dau difdi cflng vay
Hai ddu xa tfch dflcic giii viio that lifng
budng xudng trifdc bung
Vong tay (chiem piia); Day la vdng deo
d CO tay, diidc lam bdng bac hinh trdn, uon
Iron vdi dfldng kinh tfl' 6 den 7 cm
Trong chu ky ddi ngiidi cua ngUdi ndi
chung va ngiidi Dao Q u a n Chet ndi rieng
cd nhflng llidi diem n h u diim cfldi, le ca'p
sac (le trfldng t h a n h ) la r a i q u a n trgng thi bd nfl phuc luon cd vi trf cua minh Trong d a m cUdi cua ngUdi Dao Qudn Chet, khi lam le td hong co dau luon phai mac bg t r a n g phuc t r u y e n thd'ng cho dfl
cd dau la ngfldi dan tgc khac Nha trai cd trach nhiem c h u a n bi cho con dau mgt bd
t r a n g phuc t r u y e n thdng Tuy nhien t r a n g phuc trong ngay cfldi cua cd dau ngfldi Dao Quan Chet d T h a n h Sdn cd mgt vai net khac biet so vdi bg t r a n g phuc truyen tho'ng dugc mac trong nhflng ngay le, hdi
Dd la, trong ngay cfldi, cd dau miic them mgt chiec yem dao ben trong chiec yem thfldng ngay va khong cudn xa cap, vat ao budng xudng Deo day du bd t r a n g sfle, tham chf vdng tay va vdng cd cdn deo vdi sd'lfldng nhieu hdn, vdi nhflng kich thfldc
lo nhc) kbiic n h a u Bcui canh dam cfldi, lhi
ma chay, hay trong lc cai) sac ludn la moc ciuan trgng trong chu ky ddi ngUdi va khong the thieu dUdc ngitdi quan trgng trong cac budi le day chinh la thay cflng Trong t r a n g phuc cfla thay cflng ngifdi Dao Quan Chet, thay cflng va hgc tro (ngfldi t h u le ca'p sac) cflng vay Trang phuc cua t h a y cflng, cflng cd nhflng t h a n h
to gidng vdi nfl phuc truyen thd'ng, tuy nhien tren t r a n g phuc dflde t r a n g tri nhflng hoa tiet, hoa van da dang va cau ky hdn Tuy thugc vao tflng le cung ma thay cflng d day cd nhflng yeu td' t r a n g phuc khac n h a u Vi du nhfl trong le ca'p sac, hg can mac bo t r a n g phuc truyen thdng gdm;
ao phu nfl, ao rdng, mfl bang va mfl nhgn,
t h a t Iflng, vay, xa cap
Trang 572 Nghien cifu Dong Nam A 6/2009
Nhfl tren da ndi, trong dieu kien hien
nay, nhflng t h a y ddi nay la va'n de chung
cua nhieu d a n tdc sinh sd'ng xen ke va boa
hdp trong khoi cdng ddng cac d a n tdc Viet
Nam Song, tfl nhflng diem c h u n g do,
chflng ta van n h a n dien dflde nhflng net
van boa rieng, tdn tai d van hoa tgc ngu'di
cfla ngfldi Dao Q u a n C h e t d day Dd la viec
duy tri cua bg t r a n g phuc co t r u y e n trong
cac dip le let, nhflng dip q u a n trgng trong
chu ky ddi ngfldi nhfl le ciidi, le cap sac
Bg nfl phuc t r u y e n thd'ng cua Dao
Qudn Chet d xa Vo Mieu hien nay cflng cd
nhieu t h a y ddi Cu the, thiidng ngay nfl
t h a n h nien va t r u n g nien khong mac
t r a n g phuc t r u y e n thdng nfla, t r a n g jibuc
h a n g ngay hien nay thiidng di m u a cua
ngfldi Viet (Kinh) hoac tfl may gid'ng nhfl
mdt cua ngu'di Viet Dd lii q u a n au va ao
sd mi nfl Vdi nhflng ])hu nfl ldn tudi hdn,
hg thfldng mac cjuan den, iio canh tfldng
tfl n h u cac ba, ciic cd ngudi Viet d ddng
b a n g Bac Bg Chi cd mot sd ngUdi hien nay
cdn dflng chiec k h a n cd t r u y e n cua dan tdc
minh, mdt so' k h a c thi sif d u n g k h a n
vudng T r u n g Quoc T r a n g phuc t r u y e n
thdlig cua dong bao chi cdn tha'y xual hien
trong cac le cfldi, dip cap sac, cflng Ban
Vitdng hdac trong cac le hgi bieu dien va
giao lflu van hoa v a n n g h e d dia phfldng.,
tuy da cd sfl t h a y ddi k h a ldn ve each
t r a n g phuc hay v a n boa mac, song, ve cd
ban t r a n g phuc cua ddng bao v a n cdn dUdc
gin gifl va bao lflu trong cac dip le q u a n
trgng cila ddi ngu'di va cua cdng ddng Ben
canh dd, nhflng n e t rieng biet cua bg
t r a n g phuc Dao Q u a n C h e t d day cdn dflcic
the hien ro n e t d viec dflng n g u y e n lieu cd tru3'en, each tao h i n h t r a n g phuc, ky
t h u a t cat may, m a n sac va md tip hoa van
t r a n g trf Dac biet la bd t r a n g phuc
t r u y e n thd'ng dd k h o n g chi tdn tai dfldi diing v a t c h a t t h u d n tuy m a cdn boa quyen t r o n g cac mdi q u a n he vdi cac hinh thflc s m h b o a t xa hdi va t i n h t h a n khac cua cdng ddng ngu'di Dao 0 ndi day./
TAI L I E U T H A M K H A O
1 Nguyen Kliac Tung, Nguyen Anh CUdng
(2004) Trang phuc c6 truyen ciia ngUcti Dao
d Viet Nam Nxb Khoa hgc xa bgi, Ha Ngi
2 Khong Dien (1995) Ddn so'vd ddn so'tgc ngUdi d Viet Nam Nxb Khoa hgc xa hgi
Ha Ngi
3 Be Viet Dang, Nguyen Khac Tung, Nong
Trung, Nguyin Nam Tien (1971) NgUdi Dao d Viet Nam Nxb Khoa hgc xa hgi
4 Be Viet Ddng (1998) NgUdi Dao d Viet Nam- nhdng truyen thdng thdi hien dgi
trong Su phat trien van boa xa hgi cua ngUdi Dao: Hien tai va tUdng lai (ky yeu hgi tbiio quo'c te ve ngUdi Dao td chflc tai Thai Nguyen thang 12 nam 1995)
5 Ngo Dfle Thinh (1994) Trang phuc cd truyen cdc ddn tgc Viet Nam Nxb Van boa
Dan tgc Ha Ngi
6 Pham Quang Hoan, Hflng Dinh Quy (chu
bien) (1999) Vdn hod truyen thd'ng ngUdi Dao
d Hd Giang Nxb Van boa Dan tgc Ha Ngi
7 Chu Thai Sdn va Nguyen Chi Huyen (1998)
Thd phdn logi trang phuc hien nay cua ngUdi Dao Qudn Chet d mgt xd thugc tinh Tuyen Quang, trong Su phat trien van hoa
xa bgi cua ngUdi Dao; Hien tai va tUdng lai (ky yeu hgi thao qudc te ve ngUdi Dao td
chflc tai Thai Nguyin thang 12 nam 1995)