Testing & Product quality

Strength of Textile Products: Breaking strength The maximum tensile force recorded in extending a test piece to breaking point is called breaking strength or tensile strength of a mater

Testing & Product quality is of prime importance in any aspect of business Customers demand and expect value for money As producers of apparel there must be a constant endeavor to produce work

of good quality To assess the quality of textile product Textile Testing is very important work or process Checking Raw Materials, Monitoring Production, Assessing the Final Product, Investigation of Faulty Material Product, Development and Research testing is done For testing a textile product in a testing lab some flow diagram has to be maintained

Test & Report Sending Flow Chart:

Sample Received with

Artwork Letter –Cover

Collect tested Artwork

Letter –Cover Page soft

copy from supplier

Draft report on Artwork

Letter –Cover Page soft

copy in tested result page

If result pass then type

Pass & If fail then type

Failwith test result,

Send report excel sheet soft copy

to Cover page mension email

address

After that they send a

mail with Reach,

Okeo-Tex, Bill of material &

Summery

Create Report word formate and then pdf, Sign 3rd page of reach then scan in pdf, Summary pdf

Send report to asign Adli Merchantiser for Carrection

&Approval

After Approval, send report to TUV Aldi Sud Team for sending final report to Adli South/North

Analytical Test for textile Product

Total Lead In Substrate Materials

Total Lead In Surface Coating

Total Cadmium Content

Release Of Nickel (EN12472/1811)

Release Of Nickel (EN1811)

Extractable Heavy Metal (ISO 105 E04)

Heavy Metal In Surface Coating (ASTM F963-07)

Identification Of PVC (Beilstein + FTIR)

PAH

Tin Organic Compounds (TBT/DBT)

Toxic Heavy Metal (EN 71 Part 3)

Allergenic Disperse Dyes

Dimethylfumarate (DMF)

KIK chemical test package

Takko test package

Carrefour test package

Others

Colorfastness, Flammability &Fiber test for textile product

Test Description

Standard Method AATCC

ASTM D

BS / EN ISO DIN

Wet Lab & Physical test for textile product

Description

Standard Method AATCC

ASTM D

BS / EN ISO

DIN

OTHERS

Dimensional Stability To

Washing

Appearance after washing

Spirality after washing

Strength of Textile Products:

Breaking strength

The maximum tensile force recorded in extending a test piece to breaking point is called breaking strength

or tensile strength of a material

In other word the resistance of a yarn or fabric to tensile biding is called tensile or breaking strength

Tearing strength

The avgas force required to continue a tear previously started in a fabric is called the tensile strength

In other word tearing strength (force) is the resistance showed by fabric against tearing

Bursting strength

Busting is the resistance of a material to rupture when subjected to a pressure acting perpendicular to the plain of the fabric The load is carried by both warp & waft thread

In tearing or breaking strength, the strength of fabric was tested by applied load is only one direction, But

in case of bursting strength the direction resistance to rupture of a circular specimen in determined

BREAKING EXTENSION

Load required to a break a Textile Materials is useful quantity It can be defined as the % increase in length of the Textile materials of breaking after applying load on it increase length

Increase length × 100 Breaking Extension=

Total length or initial length

WORK & RUPTURE

Total work done are total energy required to break the Textile Materials is called as word rupture

Unit for Work & Rupture: Jule/Calory

Breaking load and breaking elongation

WORK RECOVERY

The ratio between work of rapture during recovery & total work done for total extension in known as work recovery

TOTAL EXTENSION

Elastic Extension + Plastic Extension

Total work done for total extension= Work done for elastic extension + work done for plastic extension

Work of Rapture during Recovery Work Recovery=

Total work done for Total Extension

BC= Elastic Extension

CD= Plastic Extension

BD= Total Extension

Elastic Extension Elastic Recovery= ×100

Total Extension

Tensile Strength:

Determination of breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics - (ISO 13934-2)

Significance

It indicates the potential strength of woven fabric within a product in resistance to tension

This test method is not recommended for knitted fabrics and other textile fabrics which have high

stretchability (more than 11%)

The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 4% relative humidity for at least

24 hours The fabric is cut into specific specimen sizes 200mm x 100mm Both warpwise and weftwise directions are required Test specimens are mounted on a tensile tester along the long dimension and subjected to a constant rate of extension The loading force at point of rupture or break is recorded as tensile strength

General Note:

 Coarser yarn size gives a greater tensile strength

 High twist yarn gives a greater tensile strength

 Higher fabric count gives a greater tensile strength

 Different fiber possess different tensile properties

Tearing Strength:

Determination of the average force required to continue a tear from a slit in a woven fabric

by means of falling pendulum (Elmendorf) apparatus - (ISO 13937-1)

Significance

It indicates the potential strength of woven fabric within a product in resistance to tearing action

The method is applicable to treated and untreated woven fabrics, including those heavily sized, coated or resin-treated The test is not suitable for knit fabrics, felts or non-woven fabrics

The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 4% relative humidity for at least 4 hours Specimens, for both warpwsie and weftwise, of specific shape are die-cut from the sample fabric The specimens are mounted between two

clamps, precut by a knife then torn through a fixed distance by the swinging pendulum to generate the average tearing force in pounds for both the warp and weft directions

Sample size for Pendulum tearImportant Note:

 Coarser yarn size gives greater tearing strength

 Looser sett gives better tearing strength

 Different surface finishes on the fabric will affecting the tearing properties

Bursting Strength

Determination of bursting strength of textile fabrics using hydraulic method - (ISO 13938-1)

Significance

It indicates the potential strength of the knitted fabric within a product

The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 4% relative humidity according

to ISO 139 Test specimen is clamped over an expandable diaphragm The diaphragm is expanded by fluid pressure to the point of specimen rupture

Important Note:

 Coarser yarn size gives greater bursting strength

 Higher stitch density gives higher bursting strength

 Different surface finishes on the fabric will affecting the bursting properties

A test specimen of 400mm x 100mm with long direction parallel to the filling yarns is cut from sample fabric, if the warp yarns slide over the filling yarns is tested or vice versa

The load-elongation curve of the fabric is superimposed over a load-elongation curve of the same fabric with seam sewn being tested Resistance to yarn slippage is reported as the load at which slippage of a specific size is seen

This test is not intended for upholstery fabrics

The fabric alignment of adjacent patch of a seam may not be the same in a garment seam Direct

measurement of seam slippage on garment seam provide a more accurate result

Remedies for preventing seam slippage:

1 Superimposed seam type

2 Lapped seam type with tape / interlining reinforcement

3 Anti-slip finish (resin treatment)

Method for Strength testing of Textile Products

Extension Break Force

Break Extension

Elongation at Break (%)

Remark :

Jaw Break – any break which occurs within 5 mm of clamping line of jaws If any of the jaw break results falls below the lowest

“normal” break result, it shall be excluded and further tests carried out to obtain the number of “normal breaks” for each set of testing, i.e 5 tests

Record the result for

Tearing Force Using Pendulum Method

Test Standard: □ ISO 9290 □BS EN ISO 13937-1

□ASTM D 1424 □AS 2001.2.8 □ GB/T 3917.1

Equipment No.: Digital Elmendorf Tearing Tester: 008

Notch size of specimen: 15 mm W x 12 mm H – BS EN ISO, GB/T, AS Standard

Jaw spacing gauge: 3 +/- 0.5 mm – BS EN ISO, GB / T, AS Standard

2.5 +/- 0.25 mm – ASTM Standard

Permissible range: 15 % and 85 % of the full scale range – BS EN ISO, GB/T, AS Standard

20 % and 80 % of the full scale range – ASTM Standard

mm wide notched area

) Tear Across

Warp Tear Across Weft Tear Across Warp Tear Across Weft Tear Across Warp Tear Across Weft Tear Across Warp Tear Across Weft

Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip):

Test Standards: □ BS EN ISO 13937-2

□ ASTM 2261 Equipment No: □ Universal Tensile Tester: 004

Requirement:  lbs  cN  N  gf  kgf

Test Results: Warp: min _ Weft: min _

Sample Direction

Tear Across Warp

Tear Across Weft

Tear Across Warp

Tear Across Weft

Tear Across Warp

Tear Across Weft

Unit

Bursting Properties of Fabric using Hydraulic Method

Test Method: □ BS EN ISO 13938-1 □ BS EN ISO 13938-2 □ ASTM D3786

□ AS 2001.2.4 □ CAN/CGSB-4.2 No.11.1 Equipment No.: Auto Burst Tester :005

Tested Area: □ 31.0 mm □ 31.5 mm □ ………

Garment Seam Strength / Slippage

Dimension of Jaws: Front Jaw = 25 mm L x 25 mm W, Rear Jaw = 25 mm L x  75 mm W

Speed of Upper Clamp: 50 ± 5 mm/min

Test Result(s):

Sample:

Requirement: Applied Load @ ……… N For Fabric Weight ……… ….g/m²

Test Area SO (mm) Breakdown

(N)

Type of Seam Failure SO (mm)

Breakdown (N)

Type of Seam Failure Side Seam

≤220 g/m² 60 STB = Sewing Thread Broken

≥220 g/m² 120 FR = Fabric Rupture

1 kgf = 2.20462 lbs

Fabric Seam Slippage

Dimension of Jaws: Front Jaw = 25 mm L x 25 mm W, Rear Jaw = 25 mm L x  50 mm W

Speed of Upper Clamp: 50 ± 5 mm/min

Stretch Properties of Fabrics Woven from Stretch Yarns (ASTM D 3107):

Equipment No.: 017 (Stretch & Recovery Holder)

(A) Fabric Stretch (%) (Section 10.3)

 Option (1) :Use 4.0 lbs (1.8 kg) load or

 Option (2): Use 3 lbs (1.35 kg) load

 Measure the distance between the benchmarks at the 30 min at stretched condition

Original distance between

bench mark: (Dist 01, mm)

Distance between bench mark at the 10 sec and 30 min cycle at stretched condition

(B) Fabric Growth & Recovery after Stretching to a Specified Extension (%) (Section 10.5)

 Calculate the extension at 85% of the Average Fabric Stretch

 Hold it for 30 minutes and then release and allow it to hang freely

Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft

Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft

Test Title: Zipper Strength

01 Chain Crosswise Strength Transverse Strength of the

Slide Fastener (6.2.3.1) Lateral Strength of Fastener

02 Slider Lock Holding, Stringer

07 Bottom Stop Holding

Strength, Slider - Strength of Close-End

08 Bottom Stop Holding,

10 Fixed Retainer, Pull-Off

Longitudinal Strength of the edge part of the Divisibility Element (6.2.3.6)

Strength of Open-End Fastener Box, Lengthwise

11 Separable Pin, Pull-Off - -

Stringer Slider Retention

15 - Permanent Run Behaviour

(6.2.3.8) Resistance to Reciprocation

Others:

16 Chain Crosswise Strength

After Reciprocating Test

Strength Requirement according to end use & fabric type of different Buyer:

Buyer Name: Kaufland

Buyer Name: Malu

Buyer Name: Carrefour

Buyer Name: C&A

Buyer Name: Varner

Conclusion:

For this lab report I have worked in the TUVB (TUV Rheinland Bangladesh Pvt Ltd.), Physical department TUVB is a commercial Testing Lab By strength test we Assessment

of strength of final product or fabric, whether the strength of fabric is acceptable or not

Tensile is the potential strength of woven fabric within a product in resistance to tension Tear indicates the potential strength of woven fabric within a product in resistance to tearing action Seam Slippage determines the tendency of the yarns to slip out of the seam and whether they would be readily repairable by re-seaming Bursting strength indicates the potential strength of the knitted fabric within a product In this report I know about the

different requirement of strength test, according to end use through buyer Also understand

about the different test requirement, which need to fulfill a quality textile product