Knit garments marchandising

Growth of garments factories started in Bangladesh around 1980.around 1980, garment production & export business was unknown to us.. Chapter 2Process flow chart of merchandising Process

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT KNIT GARMENTS MARCHANDISING

Chapter 1

1.1: Introduction

Garments are produced in the garments factories on industrial basis all the people of aspecific country Bangladesh is one of the garments producing & exporting country inthe world market At present there are about 4500 garments factories running inBangladesh Growth of garments factories started in Bangladesh around 1980.around

1980, garment production & export business was unknown to us Foreign currencyearning through garments export $3.24 million which was not countable in percentage

of the total national foreign currency earnings Afterwards, tremendous growth ofgarment factory, garments productions, garments export, the percentage of foreigncurrency earnings through garments export reached from 0% to around 80% of thenational foreign currency earnings, in 2007-08 financial year

At present Bangladesh is producing & exporting more than 60 items of garments themost common items are shirt, trouser, jacket, sports wear, T-shirt, polo shirts, ladieswear, sweater, socks, hats etc this produced items are exported in USA, Canada, Japan,Australia, middle east and many other countries in the world Bangladesh is one of theimportant & competitive garments exporting country in the world market Cheapestlabor cost is the biggest advantage for Bangladeshi garments producers & exporters

1.2 scope of the project

Bangladesh is a developing country And a developing country largely depends onforeign currency Nearly 75%-80% of foreign currency is earned by exporting garments

& textile Merchandiser plays a vital role At present a large number of merchandisingpersonnel are working in textile & its sub-sector

But one thing is that in our country there have lots of differences between practical joblife & general education life It could be a problem during the time of service So we havetried ourselves to establish a combination between our general education line &practical life with various article, documents & calculation We hope this project willgive a way to learn merchandising which will help in the future to lead our textile &garment sector

Chapter 2

Process flow chart of merchandising

Process flow chart of merchandising

Merchandiser Negotiation with buyer & collect order

Costing Sample making (according to buyer requirement) Get approval &Placement of order Getting started (In-house preparation of accessories)

Line balancing Commencing production Production Monitoring Inspection Buyer’s Inspection (After Finishing) Preparation of banking & documentation Shipment/delivery

2.1: Merchandiser

2.1.1: Definition of merchandiser

The main role of a garments merchandiser is to collect garments export order (exportL/C), produce the garments, export the garments and earn profit, to perform thosefunctions successfully needs lot of knowledge, experience & tremendous effort for amerchandiser The term merchandising is defined as follows:

Definition of merchandising

 The term merchandising related with trade

 Trade means buying & selling

 And the activities of a merchandiser is known as a merchandising

2.1.2: Function of the merchandiser

Activities of Junior Merchandiser (In a factory)

 Main task is ”production monitoring”

 Collect “inventory report” from store

 Swatch making & getting approval from buyer

 Arrange preproduction meeting in order to prepare a schedule for smoothproduction

 Place order to different production unit

 Collect ”Daily Production Report & Daily Quality Report”

 If any shortage in store, arrange locally

 Arrange final inspection

Responsibilities of Senior Merchandiser

 Marketing skill

 Right consumption knowledge of various goods

 Costing knowledge of raw materials

 Order getting ability (That is if the merchandiser is known by actual rate of rawmaterials, so that he can negotiate perfectly with buyer In this way, thepossibility of getting order is hundred percent.)

 Sincere & responsible

Without clear confidence among buyer& exporter from both sides, may be a riskybusiness deal If a garment exporter can continuously deal with only three or four buyerwith buyer’s satisfaction, it will be sufficient enough to run garment production &garment export business smoothly round the year

A successful negotiation outcome does not generally occur through luck, but byfollowing a clear process The process reflects the different levels of knowledge of thesubject of negotiation, various parties and the way they communicate at various stages

in the negotiation The following is an outline of steps essential to effective negotiation:

1) Researching the needs of both parties

The greater the knowledge a buyer has of their own and the supplier’s requirements,the better able they are to construct an acceptable solution The buyer must be clearabout both the department mark-up to be placed on the product cost and the intendedretail selling price so that she or he can judge the viability of the suppliers’ products

2) Preparation

Effective preparation is also vital to successful communication It is essential that thebuyer also has identified the maximum and minimum positions that she will accept for arange of factors including:

5) Counter and revised offers

This is the real bargaining where elements of the order, such as number of units,product details, lead-time and so on are being decided in the context of an overall costprice the buyer should make firm proposals

6) Summaries

7) Agree & commit.

2.2.2: Processing of order

Execution of garments export order

After receiving the garment export order, without wasting any time, it is essential toprepare a schedule for the jobs to be done for safe execution of the export order Themain jobs for the execution of an export order are as follows:

 Details analysis of export L/C

 Preparation of a time schedule for the export L/C

 Collection of fabric & accessories for the garment to be exported[source, quantity

of the items, cost of the items, receiving data of the items, quality& quantity,Inspection of the items, etc]

 Distribution of responsibilities for the jobs & duties

2.3.2 Sample Local fabric price list

Jersey 190-200

30s/1+40dI 22" / 25" 22" / 25" 24 GoodLycra

Jersey 210-220 26s/1+40dI 22" / 25" 23" / 26" 24 Good

Lycra

Jersey 230-240 24s/1+40dI 22" / 25" 23" / 26" 24 Good

18.5" 34.5" 25" 47" 24 GoodPicque 200-210 26 s/1 18.5"34.5" 25" 47" 24 Good

Picque 220-230 24 s/1 18.5"34.5" 26" 48" 24 Good

Picque 260-270 20 s/1 18.5"34.5" 28" 50" 24 Good

Single

18.5" 34.5" 24" 45" 24 GoodSingle

18.5" 34.5" 25" 46" 24 GoodSingle

Lacost 210-220 24 s/1 18.5"34.5" 26" 47" 24 GoodSingle

Lacost 250-260 20 s/1 18.5"34.5" 27" 48" 24 Good

Double

18.5" 34.5" 25" 48" 24 GoodDouble

Lacost 190-200 30 s/1 18.5"34.5" 26" 49" 24 Good

2.3.3 CONSUMPTION KNIT GARMENTS

Fabric Consumption Calculation for 1 dozen Men’s T-shirt:

For a Men’s T-Shirt:

a) G.S.M (Given by buyer) Body : 145-150

Neck/Rib : 175-180

b) Sewing & seam allowances (Not given by buyer) – 1.50-3cm

c) Wastage % (Not given by buyer) – 7%

d) Measurement chart (given by buyer)

Where, Cpd = Consumption per dozen

= 1.28 kg

B) Cpd (Sleeve) = L x W x 12 x 2 x GSM kg

10000000

= 25 x 49 x 12 x 2 x 150 kg 10000000

= 0.44 kg

C) Cpd (Neck) = L x W x 12 x GSM kg

10000000

= 61 x 7 x 12 x 180 kg 10000000

= 0.092 kg

So, total Cpd = (A + B+C)

= (1.28 + 0.44 + 0.09) kg

= 1.81 kg Actual Cpd = Total Cpd + 7% wastage

= (1.81 + 7%)

= 1.94 kg

So, the fabric consumption for men’s T-shirt is 1.94 kg per dozen.

Consumption Calculation for 1 dozen Polo shirt:

Here,

a) G.S.M (given by buyer) body 145 – 150

Collar (12pcs) 400 Cuff (12 x 2) 300 b) Sewing & seam allowance 1.50 – 3cm

= 25 x 49 x 12 x 2 x 150 kg

107

= 0.44 kg C) Cpd (Collar) = L x W x 12 x GSM kg

107

= 46 x 10 x 12 x 400 kg

107

So, fabric consumption for 1 dozen polo shirt is 2.19 kg.

Consumption Calculation for 1 dozen Trousers:

= 3.93 kg Actual Cpd = (3.93 + 7%) kg

B) Indirect cost (15% to 20% of direct cost)

Indirect cost = $14.0 x 20%

= $2.8

So, the cost for 1 dozen mean’s T-shirt is $18

Cost a price for 1 dozen Polo shirt:

B) Indirect cost = 15% - 20% of direct cost

2.3.4 Specimen sewing thread consumption

Approx sewing thread consumption of different items

06 basic long sleeve woven shirt 150meter

07 Basic short sleeve woven shirt 125 meter

08 basic long trouser/pant 350meter

Machine wise sewing thread consumption/inch

8.bar tack stitching Per operation Generally 7 inch

2.3.5 Some conversion unit

1 Square Inch = 6.45 Square CM

1 Square Meter = 0.836 Square CM

2.3.6 Specimen local accessories price list

Local accessories suppliers are available in Bangladesh Qualities are varying according

to market place & price Some companies are BUYER nominated

For example: 1) Plastiform

2) Bright trim etc

Approx price range

Accessories

Hanger : 1.65-2.50 dollar

Papers hang tag : 10 cent-1 dollar

Price tag : 10 cent-60 cent

Poly bag : 30cent-1dollar (Depending on size & thickness)

Carton : 65 cent- 1.5 dollar

(Note: price is varying according to market price)

Sewing thread : 70-85 cent ( per cone)

Button : 1.2-2.5 dollar/grows (144 pcs=1 grows)

Rivet : 80 cents-1.5 dollar/grows

Hole button/chock button: 6 dollar- 8 dollar/gg (1728pcs=1gg;greater grows)

Zipper : 1.20dollar-3.50dollar/dozen (pant)

7 dollar-12 dollar (jacket)

(Note: the price is depend on the basis of zipper quality that is cotton, nylon, polyesteretc)

2.3.7Packing Accessories

The Accessories which are used for garment packing during garment shipment to buyerare called packing accessories Packing accessories are depended on garment packingand folding etc which is instructed by buyer

Poly bag, packing board, tissue paper, hanger, scotch tape, gum tape, carton etc are part

of packing accessories

Packing should be varying (as per buyer garment packing instruction) in differentorders as per instruction of buyer garments packing , The number of one cartongarments it is weight on depend carton quality.

Understand quality of carton follow 3 ply, 5 ply, 7ply

The number of carton is high ply number it is very much it is hard and strong

The sea frights depend on dimension of the export carton and the air frights depend ondimension of the export carton or gross weight of the carton

2 DEPEND ON STITCHING : 1 Stitching Carton

2 Now stitching /Gum Pasting Carton Or Metal FreeCarton

3 DEPEND ON PLY : 1 3 Ply Carton

2 5 Ply Carton

3 7 Ply Carton

4 DEPEND ON LINER : 1 Both Side Liner Carton

2 out Side Liner Carton

5 DEPEND ON SIZE : 1 Master Carton

2 Inner Carton

CARTON MEASUREMENT:

FORMULA (1) = (L+W) (W+H)X2 in cm (Without Wastage)

100X100 FURMULA (2) = (L+W+6) X (W+H+4) X 2/10000 (Include Wastage)

PRICE = (L+W) (W+H) X 2 x Rate per Square Meter

Rate for 7 PLY = 55 USD [For GMTS Export Natural 7 Ply Used

5 PLY = 39 USD (.55X 5/7) (Less Wt Master Carton)

3 PLY = 23 USD (It is used as inner carton)

NOTE: Some time some buyer wants top & bottom inside in the carton It should be

in 3 Ply

CARTON:

Carton should be made of 7 ply to be exported Carton is tested by carton bursting machine.

40 Line =1 inch =2.54 cm=25.4 mm

1 line =0.635 MM

TYPE : 1 Pearl button

2 Horn button: It is also polyester button

15 Polymat button : It is made of polyester & metal

16 Cord button : It is made of cord

17 Handicraft button :

18 Fabric Covered button:

19 Coconut button :

20 Wooden button :

22 Real Shell button :

23 Rhine stone button : It is made of metal & stone

"ZIPPER"

TYPE OF ZIPPER:

1 DEPEND ON END 1 Open end Zipped:

(a) Right insertion of sleeve & left puller (Men’s)

(b) left insertion of sleeve & Right puller (Women’s)

2 DEPEND ON TEETH SIZE: 1 3 SIZE

2 4 SIZE

3 5 SIZE4

It depend on teeth length it 3 mm then size 3

3 DEPEND ON TAPE: 1 Polyester

6 DEPEND ON TEETH MATERIAL: 1 LYLON (COIL)

2 VISLON /PLASTIC ZIPPER

3 Metal

1 NYLON: SHINY RAINBOW, SHINY GOLD, SHINY SILVER, ANTIC BRASS

2 METAL: BRASS, ANTIC BRASS, NIKEL BRASS, ALUMINIUM, PEWTER

3 PLASTIC ON DERLIN: IVORY, TRANSLUCENT, SHINY GOLD, SILVER RAINBOW

5 Zipper teeth is not shrink so zipper tape S/B shrink free

6 FBRIC S/B max 3% Shrinkage otherwise garment

7 like wavy & difficult for the zipper Slider

8 To go up and down

HHH ZIPPER COMPANY SYSTEM

# 3 representing Smaller size teeth and # 10 the larger.

PZ : Plastic zipper

CZ : Polyester Zipper , coil zipper (previously Known as Nylon Zipper)

MZ: Metal Zipper

GK: Antique Brass Zipper

GB : Golden Brass Zipper

AL : Aluminum Brass Zipper

NI : Nickel Zipper

2 FUNCTION: 0(0/E) : OPEN -END

C (C/E) : CLOSED -ENDM(2 WAY) : 2 WAY OPENEDEXAMPLE :

PZC # 5: Plastic Zipper No 5 , Closed end

PZM # 8: Plastic Zipper No 8 , Way Open End

GKO # 5: Metal ,Antique Brass No 5 Open-End

Open -end zipper are used generally in the front of garments closed-ends in pockets,hoods legs of garments

3 POSITION OF SLIDER :

L/S: Left Slider (Same as R/H-Right Hand) Men’s When a Jacket in Opened the Sliderremains at the left Side of the user

R/S: Right Slider (Same as L/H-left hand)

USE: L/S: IN Europe & Asia both male & female -IN USA Generally female

R/S: IN USA, Canada, South American Countries

SOME SPECIAL

ZIPPER:-1 REFLECTIVE ZIPPER

2 INVISIBLE zipper : In this type teeth are not show frontout

3 2 way slider zipper :

2 x Type : Two end is open so when two slider come toward then it shape like x.

3 R Type : One End is closed other is open when two slider come towards then it shape

like R

2.3.8 Price break down

SAMPLE price break down for basic t- shirtbuyer:name

order no:

style/art no:

ITEM: BASIC T- SHIRT

15 TOTAL PRODUCTION COST

16 OVERHEAD COST 4%

17 PROFIT 10%

TOTAL PRICE FOB CHITTAGONG.

NOTE:

GUM TAPE=1 ROLL=50 YDS

SCOTCH TAPE=1 ROL=25 YDS

2.5: Production report

Daily Production report

The production report is placed hourly in the production report board according toachieve production This report is followed by the factory manager whether it is good orbad One production report is given below:

2.6: Inspection

2.6.1 Fabric inspection

2.6.2Knowledge about faults

Barre : occurs in circular knit Caused by mixing yarn on feed into machine Fabric will

appear to have horizontal streaks

Broken Color Pattern: Usually caused by colored yarn out of place on frame.

Color Out: the result of color running low in reservoir on printing machine.

Crease Mark: differs from crease streak in that streak will probably appear for an

entire roll Crease mark appears where creases are caused by fabric folds in thefinishing process On napped fabric, final pressing may not be able to restore fabric ororiginal condition Often discoloration is a problem

Drop Stitches: results from malfunctioning needle or jack Will appear as holes or

missing stitches

End Out: Occurs in Warp knit Results from knitting machine continuing to run with

missing end

Hole: caused by broken needle.

Knots: caused by tying spools of yarn together.

Missing Yarn: Occurs in warp knit Reuslts from wrong fiber yarn (or wrong size yarn)

placed on warp Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fibers havedifferent affinity for dye

Needle Line: Caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches Usually a vertical line Pin Holes: Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes through

tenter frame

Puckered Selvage: Usually caused by selvage being stretched in finishing

Slub (Knit fabric): Usually caused by a thick or heavy place in yarn, or by ling getting

onto yarn feeds

Soiled Filling or End: Dirty, oily looking spots on the warp or filling yarns, or on

packaged-dyed yarn