Basic knowledge on textile for marchandising

Sewing accessoriesgenerally used in garments are described below. Name of Some Sewing Accessories: Purpose of Using Interlining: Interlining is used for desired shape and strength of a

BASIC KNOWLEDGE ON TEXTILE

FOR MARCHANDISING

BASIC KNOWLEDGE ON TEXTILE

FOR MARCHANDISING

BASIC KNOWLEDGE ON TEXTILE

FOR MARCHANDISING

 Some Factors Related to Buying Side:

1 Customer: Those who buy the ultimate product are called customers Customer

of a product may be the consumer of this product or not

2 Consumer: Those who use the ultimate product are called consumers.

Consumer of a product may be the consumer of this product or not

3 Buyer: Those who buy the product from other in large quantity are called

6 Importers: Those who buy or import the product from foreign or overseas

country in large quantity are called importers

 Some Factors Related to Selling Side:

1 Seller: Those who sell the product to the others are called seller.

2 Manufacturer: Those who manufacturer the product are called manufacturers.

3 Exporter: Those who sell or export the product to the buyer of foreign country

are called exporters

4 Trader: Those who establish liaison between buyer and manufacturer are

Generally buyers of USA, Europe, Canada, Australia, Japan, India are the main

buyers of Garments and Textile product of Bangladesh

Name of some important buyers of these countries are described

below- Name of Some USA Buyers:

1 GAP

2 Adidas

3 Walmart

4 Levi’s (Brand: Dockler, Denizer, Levi’strauss)

5 VF Asia (Brand: Lee, Wrangler )

6 PVH -Phillips Von Heuson (Brand: CK)

Turkey: This country is suitable for highly de corative and fancy garments.

China: Buyers select China for decorative garments and short time shipment.

SS- January to Jun

AW- July to December

India: Buyers select India for decorative garments.

Vietnuma: Buyers select Vietnum for plain printed T-Shiort.

Combodia: Buyers select Vietnum for plain printed T-Shiort.

Bangladesh: Bangladesh is a Lower Developing Country with GSP facilitiy Buyers

import various types of garments from Bangladesh

The Generalized System of Preferences (known as GSP for short) is a scheme

whereby a wide range of industrial and agricultural products originating in certaindeveloping countries are given preferential access to the markets of the EuropeanUnion

Preferential treatment is given in the form of reduced or zero rates of customs duties.The GSP scheme is specifically designed to benefit certain developing countries andintegrate them into the world economy

Since 1971, the EU has had rules ensuring that exporters from developing countriespay lower duties on some or all of what they sell to the EU This gives them vitalaccess to EU markets contributing to the growth of their economies This scheme isknown as the "Generalized System of Preferences"

Today Bangladesh offers a very flexible and feasible production base for its customers

in EU, America and Australia

The EU market is quota free for apparels and goods are eligible for the GSP facilities

As an LDC member Bangladesh also obtain special Tariff benefit from Canada (18%import Tax free)

FOB:

FOB means Free on Board It is the value of the product which is fixed without cost oftransportation of this product

ii) Accessories price &

iii) C&M Cost

 Way of Costing:

Costing can be done

by-i) Original Sample

ii) Specification

Specification contains the following

factors:-i) Design or Sketch of garments

ii) Fabric

Type Composition

- Color

- Construction

- GSM or Ozs Per Square Yards

- Any other instructioniii) Accessories Detail

iv) Any Kind of Instruction

v) Garments Size ( called “Measurement Chart” or “Size Chart” )

Specification File:

The file which contain the specification of product is called the “Specification File” or

“Technical Package” or Tech-pack” or “PDM” (Product Development Manual) or

“Order Sheet” or “Product Package” Specification File is issued by the buyer andcollected by the manufacturer

ii) Back to Back L/C

When a L/C is opened to import goods directly from the exporter is called master L/C.

It is issued by the buyer (bank of buyer) to the manufacturer

6.T & A Calendar Making:

T & A or “ Time and Action” calendar is made by the manufacturer to complete theproduction within a specific period of time

7.Fabric & Accessories Booking:

After making of T & A calendar, fabric & accessories booking is necessary

Without fabric, all materials used in garments is called “Accessories” or “Trimmings”.Accessories includes-

vi) Tissue Paper

vii) Ball head pin

viii) Hager

ix) Carton

x) Rib and

xi) Silica Gee Bag

xii) Plastic Clip so on

Master L/C Back to Back L/C Master L/C is prepared by the buyer to

import goods from the manufacturer Back to Back L/C is prepared by themanufacturer to collect raw materials for

the production

This L/C is issued by the buyer to the

manufacturer This L/C is issued by the manufacturer tothe raw material suppliers

Prepared for the import of goods from the

exporter Prepared to collect raw material from thesupplier

It has higher financial value than the Back

to Back L/C It has lower financial value than theMaster L/C ( 70-80% of Master L/C )

Here buyer checks the fitness or measurement of the garments.

c PP Sample:

Features:

 This type of sample is made by the manufacturer by actual fabric and

accessories

 This sample is made after order confirmation

 This sample must be approved by the buyer before production

Purpose:

Bulk production is done following PP sample

d Size Set Sample:

Features:

 This type of sample is made in all sizes

 These samples are sent to the buyer

 These samples are made in all sizes

f Garments Test Sample:

Common Tests of Garments: Common tests of garments are as follows

- Dimensional Stability Tests

-Sewing Strength Tests

- Button Attaching Tests

- Spirality Tests

- Color Fastness Tests

- Abrasion Tests

- Radiation of Materials Tests

Testing Houses may be local or international They test the garments and send the testreport to the buyer to inform the quality of product producing by the manufacturer

g Shipment Samples:

Features:

 These samples are not so mandatory

 These are sent to the buyer after the shipment of the products

Purpose:

Here buyer compares the Production Sample with the Shipment Sample

 Name of Some Currier:

Samples or any other important documents necessary for export are sent by the

If buyer collect sample garments of specific design for specific season which are

displayed in the retail shop to justify the demand of these samples, then these arecalled Salesman Sample

10 Fabric & Trims in House:

Here confirms all fabrics and accessories in their hand

11 Innovatory Checking & Report Making:

The term innovatory checking is applied for checking the quality & quantity of fabricsand accessories in house After checking a report is made with the test data

12 PP Meeting:

This meeting is held just before going to the bulk production This meeting is

conducted by following

persons Buying House QC

13 Pattern and Marker Making of Bulk Production:

Pattern is a hard paper which is made by following each individual components for astyle of garments

Marker is a thin paper which contains all components of different sizes for a particularstyle of garments

14 Trial Cutting:

Little amount ( for 200-300 pieces of garments ) of fabrics are cut for checking theefficiency and production cost of the garments

15.Bulk Cutting:

Here total fabrics required for bulk production are cut

16 Numbering –Bundling & Sorting:

After cutting of fabrics numbering, Bundling and sorting process are done Then cutpieces are sent to the sewing section

17 Production Line Set-up:

Production line set-up is the arrangement of sewing machines where the input of thefirst machine is cutting part of the fabrics and the output of the last machine is

complete garments Production line may be straight or V-shaped or face to face or anyother suitable type

18 Sewing:

Cutting pieces are attached by sewing to make the complete garments Different types

of sewing machines are used in production line

iv) Self Inspection: Conducted by the factory QC

v) Third Party Inspection: Conducted by the testing houses

 Name of Some Testing Houses:

ii) ITS

iii) Burean Veritas

Foreign Local

Multinational

Functions of Testing Houses:

- Environment of Work Place

- Salary & Wages

- Facilities ( Dining, Child care, Toilet )

- Treatment of Liquid WasteFactories may be classified as-

The firms or agents which take the responsibility to receive the goods from the

manufacturer company at the port and send to the buyer or buyer agent are calledLogistic Agent

They also called Freight Forwarding Agent or Forwarder

Buyer pays to the Logistic Agent

Names of Some Logistic Firms:

Factory pays to the C & F Agents

 Document For Payment

ii) Knit Garments &

iii) Heavy Knit Garments

Men bottom garments under the knee, above the ankle.

17 Vest/Over coat/Waist coat:

Sleeveless coat with button at front

‘Work wears’ which provide protection from uncomfortableworking environment

18 Head Wear:

Different types of cap, hat etc

 Knit or Light Knit Garments:

Garments used as swimming dress These garments are skin tight, made of

hydrophobic fibre and water proof

17 Pazamas:

Night dress- both top & bottom

 Heavy Knit or Sweater:

1 Pullover:

Long sleeve sweater without button at front

2 Slipover:

Sleeveless sweater without button at front

3 Vest/Waist Coat/Over Coat:

Sleeveless sweater with button at front

Garments that protect from bad weather are called Outer Wear.

e.g Rain Coat, Trench Coat, Wind Breaker

Without fabric, all materials used in garments is called “Accessories” or “Trimmings”.Accessories that used in sewing are called sewing accessories Sewing accessoriesgenerally used in garments are described below.

 Name of Some Sewing Accessories:

Purpose of Using Interlining:

Interlining is used for desired shape and strength of a component of the garments

Types of Interlining:

I) Woven Interlining

II) Non-woven Interlining

Uses: collar and cuff of shirt, lapel of jacket, blazer front, waist belt, belt loop, pocketflap etc

Pelion:

Woven fusible

Non-woven fusible Woven non-fusible

Non-woven non-fusible

Non-woven interlining made of paper which is widely used in pants is called Pelion It

is cheaper and it has high shrinkage resistant

Taffeta refers to any plain woven fabric made of filament yarn

There are unbalanced taffeta, balanced taffeta, meri’s taffeta and iridescent taffeta

4.Elastic:

Elastic means narrow fabric made of elastomeric fibres which extended when stretch

is applied and recover its original shape when stretch is withdrawn

Elastics are specified by their width

Width of elastic used:

½”, ¾”, 1”, 1.5”, 2” 2.5”

Uses: Waist belt of normal pants, Pajamas, Shirt, Kid’s Pants, Briefs, Lingerie’s,

Button hole elastic etc,

5.Label:

A label is accessory which indicates various instructions about garments The label isattached with garments by sewing

Types of Label:

I) Main Label: Contains buyer name or brand name

II) Size Label: Contains garments size

IV) Integrated Label: Contains main label, care label, and size label in a

combination

Care Label contains:

I) Composition of garments

II) Care symbol

III) Country of origin

6.Shoulder Pad:

Shoulder pad is widely used in shoulder of coat and blazer It is used for both

functional and decorative use Shoulder pad may be of different size, thickness,

structure and quality Shoulder pad made of foam is comparatively cheaper

7.Rib:

-Rib is a double jersey fabric Rib is used

as Collar of T-shirt: -this is made by circular knitting machine

-Collar of Polo-shirt: -this is made by flat-bed knitting machine

8.Pre-made Waist Band:

Pre-made Waist Band is used inside the waist band for extra decoration

9.Twill Tape:

Herringbone type tape used in Bermuda, polo-shirt, binding in T-shirt etc

10.Canvas Tape:

Plain weave type tape used in polo-shirt, binding in T-shirt etc

Application of Canvas Tape & Twill Tape:

- Flap open and close

- To give particular shape and stable the garments

- Decorative purpose

11.Velcro/Hook & Loop/Hook & Bar:

It is used for pocket attaching or decorative purpose in body wear, cargo pants etc

12.Zipper:

Zipper is a fastening device operating by means of two

parallel rows of plastic or metal teeth on either side to

interlock two parts of garments by a sliding tab

Components of zipper: I) Slider II) Teeth II) Upper

stopper IV)Lower stopper V) Tap

Types of Zipper:

-Plastic zipper or nylon zipper

-Metal zipper &

-Vislon zipper

Accessories that used in finishing are called finishing accessories finishing

accessories generally used in garments are described below

 Name of Some Sewing Accessories:

1.Button:

Button is an important finishing accessory which is used for fastening and also usedfor decorative purpose Size of button is expressed in “Ligne” where,

1 Ligne = 0.635 mm

- Flap open and close

- To give particular shape and stable the garments

- Decorative purpose

11.Velcro/Hook & Loop/Hook & Bar:

It is used for pocket attaching or decorative purpose in body wear, cargo pants etc

12.Zipper:

Zipper is a fastening device operating by means of two

parallel rows of plastic or metal teeth on either side to

interlock two parts of garments by a sliding tab

Components of zipper: I) Slider II) Teeth II) Upper

stopper IV)Lower stopper V) Tap

Types of Zipper:

-Plastic zipper or nylon zipper

-Metal zipper &

-Vislon zipper

Accessories that used in finishing are called finishing accessories finishing

accessories generally used in garments are described below

 Name of Some Sewing Accessories:

1.Button:

Button is an important finishing accessory which is used for fastening and also usedfor decorative purpose Size of button is expressed in “Ligne” where,

1 Ligne = 0.635 mm

- Flap open and close

- To give particular shape and stable the garments

- Decorative purpose

11.Velcro/Hook & Loop/Hook & Bar:

It is used for pocket attaching or decorative purpose in body wear, cargo pants etc

12.Zipper:

Zipper is a fastening device operating by means of two

parallel rows of plastic or metal teeth on either side to

interlock two parts of garments by a sliding tab

Components of zipper: I) Slider II) Teeth II) Upper

stopper IV)Lower stopper V) Tap

Types of Zipper:

-Plastic zipper or nylon zipper

-Metal zipper &

-Vislon zipper

Accessories that used in finishing are called finishing accessories finishing

accessories generally used in garments are described below

 Name of Some Sewing Accessories:

1.Button:

Button is an important finishing accessory which is used for fastening and also usedfor decorative purpose Size of button is expressed in “Ligne” where,

1 Ligne = 0.635 mm

Types of Button:

According to the number of hole button can be classified

as 2 hole button &

4.Rivit:

It is a fastening device contains two parts It used for fastening and decorative

purpose The size of rivet is expressed in “Ligne”

5.Patch:

Lather made accessories used at the back side of waist belt which contain brand name

it is used for decorative purpose