Ebook A comprehensive dictionary of textile: Phần 2

~ a method of printing fabric by (Harris is one of these islands). : transferring a design from a It is genuine Harris tweeds are ~ paper to fabric by passing them certif[r]

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gros point I habit II under-coat fIbres

teeth on the cylinders and flats I

of carding machines I • gwpure ace • 1

• gros point

also known as point 'de venise

and venetian lace', very

expen-sive heavy lace from Venice,

the most fashionable material I

for cravats among aristocrats

and royalty in the 17th century

The lace was usually held

to-gether with a ribbon or

cra-vat string, or sewn into a

pre-formed bow and fall because

it was too heavy to be tied

ac-curately

I a needlepoint lace.made with a

I heavy buttonhole stitch and with the pattern on a coarse mesh or held together with con-necting threads

I • gum waste

I waste comprising all broken silk threads that have been dis-carded during reeling, or at the

I inspection of the skeins, and

I that have not undergone any further processing

• grosgrain

a fIrm, tightly woven fabric with

a heavy; pronounced, crosswise

rib Used for neckties millinery; , ,

trim The term often describes

ribbon but may be a full width

fabric as well

• guanaco

indigenous to Southern

Argen-tina Produced fleece of the

most glorious natural honey

beige colour

• guard hairs

fibres which project beyond the

under-coat of some mammals

They are usually coarser than

• gum-sericin

a gelatinous protein, usually

I compnsmg 20% to 30% by

I mass of raw silk, cementing the two fIbroin fIlaments (brins) in

a silk fIbre (bave)

• gunny

a strong, coarse, plain weave

I fabric usually of jute Used for baling and sacks

• habit

in the 17th century it meant for men the suit of clothes all in the

I same cloth or colour The court

I habit in the 17th and 18th cen-turies meant men's clothes, and

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121

II habutai I hairy

*=============== the grand habit women's, worn ~ this definition implies a distinc-only at court and at festivities ; tion between sheep's wool and where the court was present : the covering of other animals,

~ notwithstanding the similarity in

• habutai I their fibre characteristics Thus very light weight and soft, a ~ the crimped form and the scaly little heavier than china silk, but : surface are not confined to similar Sold by weight measure ~ sheep's wool It seems desirable known 'momme' (1 momme = ; in the textile industry, however, 3.75 g) Made from waste silk : to avoid ambiguity by confining that can be twisted It is piece ~ the term wool to the covering or

dyed or printed and sized Has ~ sheep and to have available a many defects in the cloth, which ; general term for other fibres of has a 'shot-about' appearance, : animal origin Normally the less but this does not affect the cloth ~ widely used fibres are known by Comes from Japan, originally; name e.g., alpaca, mohair, etc, woven in the gum on Japanese : but collectively they should be hand looms Lighter than ~ classed as hair A difficulty arises

shantung but heavier than silk ~ when it is desired to distinguish For example are dresses, coats, ; between the fibres of the under-shirting, lampshades, lingerie, : coat and the remainder of the and curtains ~ fleece, for instance, between the

h kr ; soft short camel hair used for

• ac mg : blankets and the coarse long

a process in which stricks of ~ camel hair used for belting The

scutched flax are combed from ~ term wool is sometimes used for end to end, both to remove ; the shorter fibre, qualified by the short fibre, naps (or neps), and name f th al h

0 e arum ,e.g., cas -non-fibrous material, and to I I

: mere woo

sub-divide and parallelise the

fibre strands : atry

• hair

animal fibre other than sheep's

~ refers to fabrics with a lot of

; protruding fibres on the

T e x t i l e = = = = = = = 1

~ face

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hid/cardiglln I hllrness II

a variation of a IxI rib stitch ~ I a synonym for skein Textile with knitting & tucking in al- ; linear material in coiled form, ternate courses on one set of : 2 a definite length of sliver, needles The construction on • slubbing, roving, or yarn, e.g., the back is the reverse of the • in the metric system it is 1000 face

• hammered satin

a satin fabric with an all over

surface texture that looks like

hammered metal

• hand

• metres,

3 a synonym for count as ap-plied to sliver, slubbing, or rov

• ing

• • hank sizing

I the application of size solution

to yarn in hanks

the way the fabric feels when it •

is touched Terms like softness, ~ • hard

crispness, dryness, and silkiness describing fabrics with a firm, are all terms that describe the ~ coarse hand

: • har erung

• handkerchief linen •

treatment of man-made

re-a fme lightweight plre-ain were-ave generre-ated-protein filre-aments fabric of linen or a linen blend so as to render them com-Used in blouses, dresses pletelY insoluble in cold water

• handle • and cold dilute saline

solu-• tions

the quality of a fabric or yarn

assessed by the reaction ob- • • harlequin

tained from the sense of ~ a design motif dominated by

touch It is concerned with the : diamond shapes or checks in 3 subjective judgement of ~ or more contrasting colours as roughness, smoothness,; in a harlequin costume

harshness, pliability,

thick-I • harness ness, etc

• an assemblage of heddles 11========1baile

IlhtJrness.frtune I heattmnsforprinted =========1=2=3 mounted on a harness frame

that moves them all together

A separate harness is used for

each group of warp ends that

must be moved independently

to weave a desired pattern

- harness frame

~ which an extruded yarn passes

; after leaving the spinneret, and : whose surface speed determines

~ the spin-stretch ratio

I : - haute couture

~ high-fashion garments (of

I which only a single price is

pro-a wooden or metpro-al frpro-ame upon ~ duced) it's extravagant, it's ir-which is suspended a series of : rational, it's unique and it's to-cords or wires called heddles, ~ tally unaffordable

each of which has a small eye ~ _ head Gute)

through which a warp end is

passed according to a prede- lone of a number of bunches of termined design Each har- ; raw jute forming a bale The ness frame is fastened to a : heads are each given a twist and mechanism that raises and ~ folded over before being made

I owers it in proper sequence I into the bale

to form the sheds through ; _ heat setting

w~ich the shuttle carries the ~ the process of conferring

stabil-filling yarn to produce cloth of : ity of form upon fibres yarns

a specI Ie pattern : or fabrics, usually by means of

- Harris tweed ~ successive heating and cooling

a woollen tweed fabric hand ; in moist or dry conditions woven on the outer Hebrides ; _ heat transfer printed

islands off the coast of Scotland ~ a method of printing fabric by

(Harris is one of these islands) : transferring a design from a

It is genuine Harris tweeds are ~ paper to fabric by passing them

certified by the Harris Tweed ; together through heated rollers association : or a heated press Also called

- haul-off roller ~ sublistatic printing or sublima-the first driven roller around ~ tion printing

124 heather I herringbone II

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• heather I may be several inches long,

a yarn that is spun using pre- I while fibres used for domes-dyed fibres These fibres are tic textiles are about 3/4 inch blended together to give a par- to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.54 cm) ticular look (For example, I long The elongation (1 to 6 black and white may be blended percent) is low and its elastic-together to create a grey ity poor The thermal reac-heather yarn.) The term, • tions of hemp and the effect heather, may also be used to • of sunlight are the same as for describe the fabric made from cotton Hemp is moth resis-heather yarns tant, but it is not impervious

fi-• bres and yarns are woven into

a fibre or metal strand, pierced cordage, rope, sacking and with a hole (eye) , through which • heavy-duty tarpaulins In the warp end it controls is • Italy, fine hemp fibres are

1 a coarse, durable baste fibre • henequen

obtained from the inner bark of ~ the fibre obtained from the leaf the hemp plant Used primarily • of agava fourcroydes lemaire,

in twines and cordages, and which is native to Mexico It is most recently apparel produced by mechanically

deco-2 hemp is a baste fibre that • rticating the leaves into strands was probably used first in • from 4 to 5 feet

Asia The fibre is dark tan or • • herringbone

brown and is difficult to

bleach, but it can be dyed •

bright and dark colours The I

hemp fibres vary widely in

length, depending upon their

ultimate use Industrial fibres •

a variation on the twill weave construction in which the twill

is reversed, or broken, at

regu-I lar intervals, producing a zigzag effect

II higl1chargedsystem I hologfoam

• high charged system

a method of dry cleaning in

which an oil-soluble reagent

such as petroleum sulphonate

is added to the solvent so that

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~ or more different widths

~ • high-bulk yarn

~ a yarn that has been treated

; mechanically, physically or : chemically so as to have a

no-a Significdno-adntdno-amount of wno-ater ~ ticeably greater voluminosity can be a e to obtam a sub-; bulk

stantially clear dispersion of : or

water in the solvent In a high- ~ • hi~h-~peed spinning (melt

tion of added reagent, a so- : a melt spinning process in which

I

called detergent is 4% while, : ftlaments are drawn down abd

in a low-charged system the ~ collected at high speeds

concentration ranges from

I • hog wool

%% to 2%

• high count

refers to fabrics woven with a

relatively high thread count,

resulting in a dense, tight

fab-nco

• high twist

refers to yarn that are

manufac-tured with a relatively high

number of turns per inch This

may be done to increase the

yarn strength or to give the

fab-ric a crepe texture or hand

• high/low

1 pile fabrics that have

varia-tion in pile height

2 a corduroy with Wales of 2

I the first clip from a sheep not

~ shorn as a lamb, also termed tag : wool

I : • Holland shade cloth

~ a plain weave fabric similar to

~ sheeting with a stiff sometimes

; glazed finish Often of linen or : cotton

I : • hollow filament

I : a man-made fibre continuous

~ ftlament or fibre with a single

; continuous lumen

; • hologram

; a three dimensional effect pro-: duced with a laser that changes

~ with the angle of view and

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flects light in a striking way

Often printed on reflective

ma-terial

• homespun

I silk, similar to 'pongee' but

I finer, made from wild silk-worms raised in the Honan area of China The only wild

I type that gives even dyeing results

coarse, rugged yarn is used

Originally an undyed woollen

cloth spun into yarn and wo- I • honeycomb

ven in the home, by peasants a pique fabric with a waIDe or and country folk the world cellular appearance May be over Has substantial appear- I woven or knit

ance and serviceable qualities I • honeydew

Made with irregular, slightly

twisted uneven yarns Has a I theresultofinfestationofgrow-spongy feel with a hand- I ing cotton by aphids of white-loomed tweedy appearance fly It takes the form of more Genuine homespun is pro- or less randomly distributed duced in a very limited quan- I droplets of highly concentrated tity and much power loom I sugars, causing cotton sticki-cloth is sold as genuine home- ness

spun Many qualities made the • hoop cutter

best is an ideal rough -and - I

ready type of cloth a hand tool, resembling a

I large pair of pliers, which is

• homopolymer I used to cut the metal ties of

cotton bales

• hopsacking

a polymer in which the

repeat-ing units are all the same (cf

copolymer)

wool, worsted, cotton, linen,

a high quality, plain weave I and worsted 2 x 2 basket usu-pongee fabric made with wild I ally or novelty basket to re-silk from Henan in Eastern semble hopsack cloth Made China The best grade of wild I with coarse yarn Has a rather

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II hose(narrowfobric) I hottenrt1thnumb;=========1=2=7

rough texture and quite du- I

rable

- hose (narrow fabric)

a tubular woven fabric for con- I

veying liquid under pressure

Hose is manufactured in both

unlined and lined forms I

When unlined, the weave is

plain and the material is

gen-erally flax or hemp with a I

weaving density so arranged ; - hosiery knitting machine that when the fibres swell on ~ a knitting machine for the pro-wetting, the fabric becomes : duction of hosiery Most are tight enough to reduce perco- ~ small-diameter latch-needle cir-lation under pressure to a neg- ; cular knitting machines

ligible amount For lined

hose, fibres other than flax or ; - hot drawing (synthetic

filaments and films) hemp may be used in a 'plain I

or twill weave Lightweight: a term applied to the drawing hose woven from synthetic ~ of synthetic ftlaments or fIlms yams may incorporate an in- ; with the intentional application dependent tubular plastic lin- ~ of external heat

ing, which is introduced : _ hottenroth number

- hosiery

1 knitted coverings for the feet

and legs,

2 formerly in the UK, the

term was used in the generic

sense of all types of knitted

fabrics and, goods made up

there from

I : a measure of the degree of

rip-~ ening of viscose a hottenroth

I number is expressed as the : number of millilitres of 10%

I

: ammonium chloride solution

~ that it is necessary to add to a

; somewhat diluted viscose

(so-: lution) to induce incipient

co-~ agulation under standard

con-I ditions

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= = = = = = = = *

hounds tooth check I Uudryun "

• hounds tooth check ~ effect in certain areas

a variation on the twill weave ~ • hue

construction in which a broken ; that attribute of colour whereby check effect is produced by a : it is recognized as being

pre-f · I

variation in the pattern 0 mter- : dominantly red, green, blue, lacing yarns, utilising at least ~ yellow, violet, brown,

Bor-two different coloured yarns ; deaux, etc

• hounds tooth

a pointed broken check design

Most commonly a woven

pro-duced with contrasting yarns in

groups or multiples of 4,

wo-ven in 2x2 twill

; • humidifier

; a device that vaporizes water : and sprays it into the

atmo-~ sphere in order to increase the

I amount of moisture in the air

• huckaback ~ silk waste remaining on cocoons

1 a soft towelling fabric with : at the bottom of the basin after short, loosely twisted filling ~ reeling

floats to aid absorption, and a I dr hili" fib

I • husks (silk)

b -C • • hy op c res birds eye or honeycom SWlace ;

texture It is sometimes em - : fibres that absorb water easily, broidered ~ take longer to dry, and require

2 it is strong, rough in the sur- ; more ironing

face fmish but fmer, shinie~ ~an ~ • hygral expansion

cotton huckaback, has VarIatiOn : the reversible changes in length

in weaves but most have small ~ and width of fabrics containing squares on the surface that I hygroscopic fibres as a result stand out from the background,: h gam'

Icangesmre comes in white, colours, or :

coloured borders and also I • iaedryun

stripes The motif is made from : a short jacket, often richly

em-a series of floem-ats, some of them broidered, worn mostly in rather long, which·gives a loose I Kutch and Saurashtra, in

coni-~=======7Qaile

II iIu# I iruligo & werprinted 129

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bination with an embroidered ~ disease or through plant senil-pyjama

-ikat

; ity, or occasionally because of : the genetic nature of the

vari-~ ety, the secondary-wall thicken-term ap~lied t? the r~sist-dye ~ ing may first be delayed and process m whIch desIgns are then proceed at a reduced rate reserv.ed in warp or weft yarns ~ or wall development may cease

by tym~ off small bun~les of ~ prematurely: the ripened boil

y'ar~ with p~lm-Ieaf stnps or ; will contain a high proportion similar matenal to prevent pen- : of developed immature fibres etration of dye from the Indo- t

: - indiennes nesian Mengikat, 'to tie' or 'to t

bind' : in the 17th and 18th centuries

- illusion

a very fme sheer net fabric

usu-ally of nylon or silk Very fme,

all-silk tulle, which originated in

France It has a cobweb

appear-ance For example veiling, par

-ticularly for weddings, and

trim-mmgs

- imberline

a woven fabric with various

coloured stripes in the warp

of-ten separated by gold thread

used in upholstery, drapery

- immature cotton

cotton in which the thickening

of the fibre wall is appreciably

less than usual, note If growth

conditions are not favourable,

possibly as a result of attack by

~ the name given to all eastern

~ painted and printed cloths,

; whatever their country of ori-: gin

t

: - indigo

t

: a type of blue dyestuff originally

~ obtained from the indigo plant

; but now produced synthetically, : used for denim

t

: - indigo & colour

t

: refers to yarn dyed fabrics

us-~ ing a combinations of indigo

; dyed yarns and yarns of other

~ colours together in the design

~ - indigo & overprinted : refers to printing done on an

~ indigo denim, indigo chambray,

~ or indigo dyed fabric

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