TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN OCT DEC 2013 ISSUE

“Success depends Upon previous preparation, and without such preparation There is sure to be failure.” Confucius National Textile Policy An important recent development concerning the

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“Success depends

Upon previous preparation,

and without such preparation

There is sure to be failure.”

Confucius

National Textile Policy

An important recent development concerning the textile industry is the constitution of an Expert

Committee under the Chairmanship of Shri Ajay Shankar, Member- Secretary National Manufacturing Competitiveness Council, to formulate National Textile Policy

All said and done, the Textile Industry which employs 10.5 crore people directly or indirectly and earns foreign exchange to the tune of US $ 30- 35 billion (which is expected to cross US $ 50- 55 billion shortly)

is extremely crucial to the national economy It is gratifying that Government is giving due recognition to this industry

After all, from time immemorial India has been the home of cotton Charka played an important role in the national struggle for independence India should be proud of its textiles, because it is the epitome of her culture, heritage and tradition

The National Textile Policy is expected to unfold the roadmap for growth and development of the industry Cloth is the basic necessity of human beings and hence the industry is excepted to meet clothing requirements at affordable prices in adequate quantities But mere principles lead us nowhere, and hence the following development matrix:

1 To adopt the best of technology for the manufacture of textile and garments for product development, so that the country wins the international race in and emerges at the top

2 To increase production of cotton and man- made fibres in tune with the increased demand, whether domestic or export The earnings of the marginal farmers is always a matter of concern

3 To continue TUFS on a long- term basis

4 To adopt pragmatic labour policy in tune with the demands of the present time

5 To encourage applied research in textiles in a big way so that the industry can be self- sufficient in technology, product development and forecasting

6 To organize in the country the manufacture of weaving, processing and garmenting machinery of the current generation by encouraging joint collaborations with reputed machinery manufacturers or otherwise

7 To encourage Branding

8 To get foreign fashion experts to strengthen fashion technology, in the country

9 To organize fashion shows on international scale

However proper formulation of the policy is only the starting point What is

required is its proper implementation In 2010 or thereabout, the Ministry of

Textiles formulated National Fibre Policy which continues to stay under wraps

The Textile Value Chain requested some experts, who are not directly in the

business of manufacture of textiles and garments to give their views on what needs

to be done to ensure towering success for the industry We are glad to present their

views to our readers

A

Mr Devchand Chheda – City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)

Mr Manohar Samuel- Joint President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries

Mr Aditya Biyani- Marketing Director, Damodar Group

Dr M K Talukdar – VP, Kusumgar Corporates

Mr Ajay Sharma – GM- RSWM (LNJ bhilwara group)

EDUCATION / RESEARCH

Mr B.V Doctor - HOD knitting, SASMIRA ,

Dr Ela Dedhia- Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College

Dr Mangesh D Teli – Professor, Ex.HOD & Dean ICT (former UDCT) ,

Dr S.K Chattopadhyay,Principal Scientist & Head MPD, CIRCOT

Dr Rajan Nachane, Retired Scientist, CIRCOT

Alidhara ,Textechno, ATE

COVER STORY : REINVENTING TEXTILE

INDUSTRY

19

Growth & Strategic Perspective

by Dr Ritu Dewan & Dr Bharathi Kamath,

HR Dimension to textile industry

by Shri V.Y Tamhane

Opportunity & Challenges by Indian

Textile Engineering Industry

by Mr Navdeep Sodhi, Gherzi Textile

Branding Necessity in Textiles

by Mr Harish Bijoor, Consultant

39

PEER REVIEWED RESEARCH PAPER

“ Effect of Natural Dyes on Physio, Chemical & Anti microbial Properties of Cotton & Silk”

YARN EXPORT PRICE

EXPERT COMMITTEE FOR OCT-DEC 2013

Dr Sujata Saxena , Sr Scientist , CIRCOT

Dr A Desai , Director, BTRA

Mr Avinash Mayekar, MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt Ltd.

Mr Shivram Krishnan, Senior Textile Advisor

Mr G Benerjee, Management & Industrial Consultant

Mr Uttam Jain, Director- PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan chamber of commerce

Mr Jaykrishna Pathak, President, Bombay Yarn Merchant Association & Exchange Ltd.

Mr Shiv Kanodia- Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber

Mr N.D Mhatre, Dy Director, ITAMMA

OCT- DEC 2013 ISSUE

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VENUE: Indian Corporation Premises, Mumbai - Nashik Highway (NH-3), Anjurdive, Bhiwandi

A

ATDC FARIDABAD INTRODUCES INDIA’S FIRST EVER

KNITWEAR SPECIALTY TRAINING CENTRE

The AEPC-ATDC SMART Bhawan the 4th Permanent Campus

building in NCR was inaugurated at the

hands of Dr Kavuru Sambasiva Rao, Hon’ble

Minister of Textiles, Government of India; at

Faridabad – Haryana The AEPC-ATDC

Bhawan and new concept – Knitwear

Specialty Centre launched today is a speaking

example of ATDC’s commitment of being

‘Of the Industry’, ‘By the Industry’ and ‘For

the Industry’

The Union Minister of Textiles took keen

interest in viewing the sewing technologies

for woven & knit training programmes on display at the centre and

appreciated the efforts of Apparel Training & Design Centre

(ATDC) for playing a key role for development of this sector

Acknowledging the presence of domestic & export apparel

manufacturing clusters in Faridabad, notching up around Rs 3000

Cr exports, he emphasized the need for product diversication and

AEPC-ATDC Smart Bhawan Inaugurated By Textiles Distributes Disha Adoption Certi cates To Garment Factories

Minister-skill development in the sector which at present lacks supply of skilled hands

The AEPC-ATDC ‘SMART Bhawan’ situated amidst a cluster of

Apparel Export Units in Faridabad, which alone boast of Rs 3,000 Crore worth

‘Apparel export’ potential has over 50 apparel export units and 30 fabric processing units employing over 60,000 people in the cluster The Faridabad Apparel cluster holds a key importance in the Apparel industry in Northern India This is the second distribution of the DISHA Adoption Certicate, rst was distributed by Smt Kiran Dhingra IAS, erstwhile Secretary Textiles, to the ‘DISHA Champions’ in January 2013 at AEPC It is noteworthy that more than 150 ofcials across India are engaged in implementation of the DISHA programme This programme has been designed and developed

by Indian agencies with an India Centric approach keeping in mind the Indian law of the land

The Union Minister of Textiles Dr Kavuru Sambasiva Rao chaired a

Conference of State Ministers of Textiles in Vigyan Bhawan to

encourage investment in textile sector in various sectors including

handloom, handicraft etc

Dr Rao said that the Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS)

has been notied Earlier, approval for continuing the TUFS during the

12th Plan period with a major focus on powerlooms in accordance

with the Budget announcement for the nancial year 2013-14 A major

feature of the Scheme is that to promote indigenous manufacturing of

the textile machinery, Interest Reimbursement (IR) on second hand

imported shuttleless looms shall be reduced from 5 percent to 2

percent On the other hand, for new shuttleless looms capital subsidy

would be raised from 10 percent to 15 percent, IR from 5 percent to 6

percent, Capital Subsidy from 10 percent to 15 percent and margin

money subsidy from 20 percent to 30 percent with an increase in

subsidy cap from Rs 1 crore to Rs 1.5 crore

Dr Rao said that the Ministry has “decided to increase the production in

sericulture from 23 thousand tones to 33 thousand by the end of 12th

Plan” He was also happy to inform that “the production of yarn is

beyond the requirements of the nation.” Union Minister for Rural

Sericulture Workers to get MNREGA Benet , TUFS to Generate Investment for Textile Industry

Development Shri Jairam Ramesh has agreed to integrate sericulture workers, where the farmers are marginal and small scale with the benets of Mahatma Gandhi National Rural Employment Gurantee Act (MNREGA).”

The Minister added that in the recent past the handicrafts exporters conveyed to him that “they wanted a warehousing facility in one of the countries of Latin America costing about 100-200 crores which would

be spent in about ve years.” He added that he has taken up this issue with the Finance Minister “and they are in support of it and I think we will be very soon getting budget for that also and construct a warehousing facility possibly in Uruguay by which the handicrafts exporters have assured me will double the exports from 17,000 to 34,000 crore in less than three years.”

Highlighting the issue of skills training, Dr Rao mentioned that “we should concentrate more on skills training.” He mentioned that the Ministry is “encouraging private institutions and industries” for the same “We told them that we will give them money for training at the rate of Rs 10,000 per trainee and they are very happy that they will undertake the training,” informed Dr Rao

The Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs has approved

continuation of the scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP) in the

12th Five Year Plan and sanction of new projects for utilizing Rs 717

crore the balance left in the 12th Five Year Plan allocation, after meeting

committed liabilities of the sanctioned 61 parks

The CCEA also approved additional grant of Rs 10 crore to be given

to existing parks for setting up apparel manufacturing units Rs 50

crore has been allocated for this purpose The overall impact and

progress of the scheme for integrated textile parks had been positive and the scheme had been successful in terms of leveraging private sector investment, employment generation and creation of need-based, product based world class infrastructure for the industry With the increasing costs of production in established clusters and heightened emphasis on environmental compliances, there is a growing need for establishment of green eld textile parks that would address both these constraints

Continuation of the scheme for Integrated Textile Parks in the 12th Plan and additional grant for apparel manufacturing units

A Market Intelligence on Textiles (MIT)

The globalization and the framework of WTO have

increasingly being integrated through different

mechanisms like RTA, FTA & Multilateral Trade

Agreements The integration has brought about

intense competition among the textile exporting countries for

enhancing their market share in global trade, which is driven by

different factors like production, cost, pricing, quality and policy

mechanism, etc The country that is competitive will sustain and

may enhance its market share, while the less competitive

countries may lose There is a need to analyse the factors

affecting the global trade in textiles at disaggregate level so

as to access the position of a country in the global market in a

systematic and sustained way Further, the information available

on key trends are also scatter and require further compilation and

analyses In order to bridge the information gap in terms of

analysis and dissemination, the Textiles Committee is preparing a

comprehensive database on the different facets of the textiles

sector so as to share with the trade and industry and govt for

appropriate policy decision in form of Market Intelligence in

Textiles (MIT) It will act as one point reference for the sector on

various issues pertaining to the Sector

The MIT will provide information on Production, Domestic

Demand, Export & Import, Price & its Mechanism,

Competitiveness & Competitors, Cost benchmarking,

NEW INITIATIVES OF TEXTILES COMMITTEE

Government Policy Mechanism, Tax Structure, RTAs/PTAs, tariffs, NTBs, Infrastructure and Other related issues to the industry stakeholders and policy makers Efforts are also on to prepare the Textile Competitiveness Index (TCI) for accessing our strength and position in global market The main objectives of the MIT are

b Export Competitiveness Studies:

The process of liberalization initiated in 1991 by the Government

of India has increasingly integrated the Indian Economy to the world However, the emergence of multilateral negotiations under the framework of WTO and the signing up of RTA/FTAs, etc by the different countries has created different challenge and so also opportunities for the sector in terms of export The constraints arised out of intense competition by different countries like China, Bangladesh, Pakistan in different export destinations with India These constraints could be converted into opportunities, if the Indian textile enjoys competitive advantage at different product levels in the world market The advantage may be in form of price advantage, quality advantage or advantage in terms of fashion or preference The only way to convert the challenges into opportunities is to study the position of the Indian T&C products vis-à-vis competitors in the different export destinations and disseminate to the key stakeholders including the government for appropriate business strategy and policy decisions

Keeping these aspects in mind, the Textiles Committee has initiated the “Export Competitiveness Study” in different export destinations

o n 1 1 t h O c t o b e r 2 0 1 3 a t Mumbai Dr Rao lauded the contribution made by Textiles Committee to the growth of textile industry of the country during

last fty years While congratulating the Committee on the occasion

of golden jubilee celebration, he also urged that the Committee has

to undertake more proactive work on the areas like skill

development, for providing quality manpower to the industry

besides generating employment opportunities for the country He

was of the opinion that the development of this sector as well as the

economy is possible, when organization like Textiles Committee,

undertake more and more research and development in the areas

of new products, technology and testing facilities Appropriate

strategy towards the effects of globalisation for capatalising the

benets of it is also the need of the hour Hon’ble Minister also

released the Coffee Table Book “A Journey of Growth through

Transformation & Commitment”, special Postal Envelope, Market

Intelligence in Textiles and Exquisite Handwovens Textiles of Kerala

on the occasion of the Golden Jubilee Celebration He was of the

opinion that India can excel in the eld of research and development,

when the people having expertise are adequately compensated

through productive linked incentives It not only motivates the

researchers already in the job but also attract young talents to the

areas of research He called upon the Textiles Committee, to devise

appropriate strategy to motivate the researchers working in this area

through appropriate means and submit to the Ministry for

appropriate action

Among the other dignitaries, Smt Panabaaaka Lakshmi, Hon’ble Minister for States of Textiles, and Petroleum and Natural Gas, Ms Zohra Chatterji, Secretary(Textiles), Shri S.P Oswal, Chairman, Textiles Committee, Shri A.B Joshi, Textile Commissioner & Vice-Chairman, Textiles Committee also addressed on the occasion

While welcoming the guest, Shri S.P Oswal said that the Committee has completed 50 Golden years and has transformed itself from a Regulatory Agency to a Facilitator of growth The transformation

is an important achievement for the organisation during the journey of

50 years He was of the opinion that in the area of Market Intelligence in Textiles and Economic Research, the Committee has made a great stride for providing support to the Textiles & Clothing industry

Smt Panabaaka Lakshmi, Hon’ble Minister of States for Textiles, and Petroleum and Natural Gas congratulated the Textiles Committee and recounted the contributions made by it in the area of quality and compliance, market analysis and also providing appropriate testing services to the industry She was of the opinion that the contribution of the Committee in terms of Handloom Mark implementation and Total Quality Management, star rating of ginning and pressing factories is also remarkable On the occasion, she also launched the Textiles Committee new website and website of Laboratory Management Information System (LIMS) and Star Rating of Ginning & Pressing Factories

Smt Zohra Chatterji, IAS, Secretary (Textiles) in her key note address lauded the contribution of Textiles Committee for the growth

of cotton textiles in the early year of development and to the industry as

a whole in the recent years

At last Dr P Nayak, Secretary, Textiles Committee delivered vote of thanks

Golden Jubilee Celebration of the Textiles Committee

10

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013

The IMF released its latest economic outlook for the global

economy and the main takeaways are:

• Global growth to be 2.9% in 2013 which will increase to

3.6% in 2014

• Growth to be driven more by advanced economies and the

emerging markets are expected to be weaker than expected

• Risks to forecast remain on the downside

Overview

The IMF forecasts global growth to average 2.9% in 2013 below

the 3.2% recorded in 2012 and to rise to 3.6% in 2014 Much of

the pickup in growth is expected to be driven by advanced

economies Growth in major emerging markets, although still

strong, is expected to be weaker than the earlier IMF forecast

This is partly due to:

• Cooling in growth following the stimulus-driven surge in

activity after the Great Recession

• Structural bottlenecks in infrastructure, labour markets, and

investment have contributed to slowdown in many emerging

markets

Quite signicantly long-term interest rates in the United States

and many other economies have increased more than expected

Although the U.S Federal Reserve recently decided to not slow

the pace of its asset purchases yet and capital outows from

emerging markets have subsided somewhat, bond yields remain

well above levels of early May Also there is a distinct risk that

nancial conditions will tighten from their current, still supportive

levels

Some observations

• The impulse to global growth is expected to come mainly from

the USA where activity will move into higher gear as scal

consolidation eases and monetary conditions stay supportive In

the USA, the projections are based on the key assumption that the

ongoing shutdown in the federal government will be short-lived

and the debt ceiling will be raised on time Growth is expected to

rise from 1.5% this year to 2.5% in 2014 driven by continued

strength in private demand, which is supported by a recovering

housing market and rising household wealth Following sharp scal

tightening earlier this year, activity in the USA is already regaining

speed, helped by a recovering real estate sector higher household

wealth, easier bank lending conditions and more borrowing

• In the euro area, policy actions have reduced major risks and

stabilized nancial conditions, although growth in the periphery is

still constrained by credit bottlenecks The region is expected to

gradually pull out of recession, with growth reaching 1% in 2014

In the euro area, business condence indicators suggest that activity

is close to stabilizing in the periphery and already recovering in the

core economies In 2014, a major reduction in the pace of scal

tightening, to less than 0.5% of GDP from about 1% of GDP in

2013, is in the offering However, the support for activity from the

reduction in the pace of scal tightening is dampened by tight credit

conditions in the periphery Thus, growth is expected to reach only

1%, after contracting by about ½% in 2013

• In Japan, scal stimulus and monetary easing under the authorities’ new policy package—the so -called Abenomics—has enabled an impressive rebound in activity But the expected unwinding of scal stimulus and reconstruction spending together with consumption tax hikes will lower growth from 2% this year to 1¼% in 2014

• China’s growth is projected to decelerate slightly from 7½% this year to 7¼% in 2014 Policymakers have refrained from stimulating activity amid concerns for

nancial stability and the need to support a more balanced and sustainable growth path The forecasts assume that Chinese authorities do not enact major stimulus and accept somewhat lower growth, consistent with the transition to a more balanced and sustainable growth path This slowdown will reverberate across developing Asia, where growth is expected to remain between 6.25 and 6.5% in 2013–14

• The projections for real GDP growth in India have also been marked down signicantly, with growth foreseen at 3.8% in 2013 and about 5% in 2014 However, this number is reckoned at market prices and at factor cost will

be 4.25% and 5% in 2014

• Overall, growth in emerging market and developing economies is expected to remain strong at 4.5–5% in 2013–14, supported by solid domestic demand, recovering exports, and supportive scal, monetary and nancial conditions Commodity prices will continue to boost growth in many low-income countries, including those in sub-Saharan Africa But economies in the Middle East and North Africa, Afghanistan, and Pakistan region will continue

to struggle with difcult economic and political transitions

 What are the downside risks?

1 The changing global growth constellations have exacerbated

risks in emerging market economies Less U.S monetary policy

accommodation combined with domestic vulnerabilities in

emerging market economies may lead to further market

adjustment globally, with risks of asset price overshooting or

even balance of payments disruptions

2 Unnished nancial sector reforms in the euro area, impaired

monetary policy transmission and corporate debt overhang in

some euro area economies, and high government debt and

related scal and nancial risks in many other advanced

economies, including Japan and the United States are also to be

monitored

3 Geopolitical risks have also resurfaced in recent months

which can upset calculations

What needs to be done?

1 The euro area needs to repair its nancial systems and adopt a

credible banking union supported by a common backstop

2 The USA should resolve its political standoff relating to scal

policy, and promptly raise the debt ceiling In addition, the

Federal Reserve should carefully manage the process of

monetary policy normalization, taking into consideration

AG prospects for growth, ination, and nancial conditions

3 Both Japan and the United States need to accomplish medium-term scal adjustment and reform of their social safety net programs Japan and the euro area should adopt structural reforms to boost potential output

4 Policymakers should allow their exchange rates to respond to changes in the environment and act as shock absorbers, while avoiding disorderly market conditions

5 In economies where monetary policy frameworks are less credible, efforts may need to focus more on providing a strong nominal anchor Financial regulation and prudential actions should be taken to guard against nancial instability

6 Fiscal adjustment should continue to rebuild buffers, unless downside risks materialize and funding conditions allow scal easing

7 A new round of structural reforms is a must for many emerging market economies, including investment in infrastructure, to reignite potential growth

8 China needs to rebalance growth away from investment toward consumption to make way for more balanced and sustainable domestic and global growth

Reference : CARE Rating Report

12

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013

Lenzing is presenting “Natural Connection”, the new marketing

concept especially for TENCEL®/cotton blends, at the textile

trade fairs in Paris

The two cellulose bers, TENCEL® and cotton, are ideal

partners They go together perfectly and enhance each other with

their properties Both bers are from Nature and possess similar

properties such as good breathing properties A blend with 30%

TENCEL® gives cotton fabrics a new denition As a result of

adding TENCEL®, the fabric’s hand, moisture management and

sheen can be enhanced Thus the innovation potential for

TENCEL®/cotton fabrics is great Depending on the blending

ratio, the look and properties of these fabrics can be changed to

suit any need New marketing tools are now available for

m a n u f a c t u r e r s a n d r e t a i l e r s t o p r o m o t e g o o d s o f

TENCEL®/cotton ”For TENCEL®, cotton is the blending

partner! Consumers are interested in natural and high-quality

materials This marketing push is aimed at getting these products the attention they deserve With this initiative, we are presenting

o u r c u s t o m e r s w i t h marketing tools ideally

s u i t e d t o p r o m o t i n g

T E N C E L ® / c o t t o n products at retail,” Andreas Dorner, marketing manager, explains

LENZING: NEW MARKETING INITIATIVE FOR TEXTILES OF TENCEL®/COTTON

The TENCEL®/cotton teamCotton and TENCEL® are used for similar applications Their main applications are in the clothing sector in shirts and jeans and

in bed linens in the home textile sector In bed linens and shirt applications in particular, quality plays an important role With a mixture of TENCEL®, the yarn values can be considerably improved with regard to the strength and regularity These positive effects can be transferred to the nal product and lead to a more attractive fabric with better performance values

Long-staple cotton with TENCEL® is a logical combination Luxury cotton is in high demand for the nest fabrics and the demand cannot be fullled TENCEL® can be used in these fabrics as an equal partner ”Fabrics of long-staple cotton and TENCEL® are unbeatable in terms of quality and visual appeal,” Dieter Eichinger, Vice President of the Textile Fibers Business Unit,

is certain ”There are numerous opportunities to place

TENCEL® in relevant products where the

a d d e d v a l u e o f a TENCEL®/cotton blend would be appreciated The combination of both

bers gives luxury textile

m a n u f a c t u r e r s a n d retailers the chance to stand out from mass-produced products by means of innovation and marketing,” he explains

The depreciating rupee value against greenback has boosted the

prots of largest textile industry Iin Pakistan As the listed textile rms

prot have jumped by 150 percent to Rs 30.6 billion in scal year

2013 Industry sources said that the fall of rupee has been seen as a

positive sign for exports of Pakistan, as the local currency has fallen 8

percent since the beginning of 2013 With a share of over 50% in the

country’s total exports, the textile industry has emerged stronger in

scal 2013-14

Industry sources believed that Pakistan’s textile exports are going to

benet from two major reasons, as China is focusing more on the

technology sector instead of textile, but yarn demand from China is

growing

Moreover, Bangladesh which is the second biggest textile exporter in

the world after China, is not getting the same number of export

orders as it was getting a year ago The country is facing major

challenges in safety concerns of textile workers Recent re incidents

in factories of Bangladesh, where hundreds of workers had died, attracted negative international media coverage

The listed companies, which cover 85pc of textile sector market capitalisation, are very small compared to total Pakistan textile industry So the actual prots of the textile industry would be much more than Rs30.6 billion

Strong cotton yarn and grey cloth demand from China and its neighboring countries has contributed to higher units sales while margins increased due to stable cotton prices and 8pc Pak rupee depreciation against US dollar Leading textile industrialists insist that the rise in gas tariff for captive power plants by 17.4% and electricity rates for industrial units by 57% in recent months are going to hit the protability of the sector in the ongoing scal 2014

INTERNATIONAL NEWS

A joint programme to raise the awareness of responsible cotton

growing practices among producers in Australia and the United

States has been developed by Cotton Incorporated and Cotton

Australia

The Cotton LEADS programme is aimed at textile brands, retailers

and manufacturers committed to sourcing cotton that is grown in a

responsible and transparent manner

“Cotton LEADS is designed to assist businesses along the cotton

supply chain with their sustainability goals,” says Berrye Worsham,

president and CEO of Cotton Incorporated

“Apparel brands, retailers and manufacturers require large volumes and a reliable supply of responsibly-produced bre, as well as proof of responsible production Through Cotton LEADS

we demonstrate how cotton grown in the United States and Australia can help meet these requirements.”

Combined, Australia and the United States account for roughly 17% of global cotton production

Australia and US collaborate on responsible cotton growing

A research project, co-founded by the European Commission, will

investigate the potential to create smart clothing with wearable

technology in cloud computing

The ‘EASY-IMP’ project proposes to develop a cloud computing

enabled framework for the Collaborative Design and Development

of Personalised Products/Services This would then combine

embedded sensors and mobile devices with facilities for the joint open

development of enabling downloadable applications

The ‘Meta-Products’ consist of intelligent wearables (clothing,

footwear, accessories) equipped with embedded networks of

sensors And sensorial data will be communicated to smart phones via

Bluetooth or Wi The required functionality will be congured by the

end-users; the design, selection of components, sourcing of materials

and sensors, virtual prototyping, as well as production planning and

services integration, however, is a collaborative process of all involved

companies, designers, sensor producers, software developers and

application experts

The research addressed in the EASY-IMP project involves partners

from nine countries (Germany, France, Spain, Italy, Slovenia, Belgium,

Greece and Israel) And the EASY-consortium, which integrates

competences on production methodology, system design and

EASY-IMP project to develop smart clothing in cloud computing

modelling, product lifecycle management, simulation and virtual reality, is composed of four academic partners (DFKI, Lyon University, LRI, and IBV), seven companies (ATOS, IAW, ATC, HC, Nuubo, Timocco, SLCMSR) and the Federation of European Sporting goods (FESI)

According to ofcials involved with EASY-IMP, this infrastructure will enable all interested third parties to offer new services to smart phone and EASY wearable users, resulting in an open platform of literally innite applications in many target markets First of all, the EASY approach will be validated in three different industrial scenarios, i.e rehabilitation, sport and games

ATC is one of the main Technology Providers in EASY-IMP, mainly involved in the development and integration of Meta-Product Cloud Services for Supply Chain Management In particular, ATC is responsible for the analysis, system-level denitions, implementation, technical testing and user evaluation of the core Production Planning Environment (private cloud), which will support the production planning of customisable intelligent wearables

EASY-IMP started in September 2013 and will run for 36 months

Live demonstration of a High Speed & High Efciency solution

for Twisting or Cabling of High-Tenacity & Heavy Denier

Technical Yarns Showcased at the Techtextil 2013

Alidhra Weavetech Pvt Ltd had given a live demonstration of it’s

High Speed & High Efciency Machine Model: X-500CC for

Twisting & Cabling of High-Tenacity yarns for technical applications

Since 25 yrs, Weavetech Group has lead the indigenous

developments of most efcient Twisting technologies for Indian

markets creating many ‘rsts’ in the process With the same vision,

it has now developed a modular Direct-Cabler, Corder & Twister

machine with technologies comparable to global benchmarks for

the technical yarn markets

Highlights of Cabler/Twister Model: X-500-CC

 Processing Speeds of upto 300 mtrs/min

 Individual Motor Driven Spindles

 Pneumatic Air-Threading & Cradle Lifting

 Conveyor System for package transport

 Process upto 12000 Denier @ 30-1400 TPM

 Process upto 14 Kg knotless packages

 Split Control for each side to process different yarns

 Lowest Operating & Maintenance Costs

LAUNCH: “High Speed Cabler & Twister” for High-Tenacity Yarns

Application Industries:

Tire Cord, BCF/Carpert Yarns, Industrial Threads, Belting, Filter Fabrics, Geo Textiles, Industrial Fabrics, Composites, Packaging Fabrics etc

Weavetech Group has a dedicated R&D center in Surat city whose main aim to develop indigenous technologies for Indian markets thus providing the Indian Industry with a competitive edge to respond to global benchmarks of productivity & quality

The new STATIMAT DS combines testing of tensile properties,

unevenness, and count of yarn and thread in one tester The

three tests on each package presented by the package changer

are performed in succession Optionally it is possible to test

unevenness and yarn count in one test run, which enables to

relate the results of both measurements to the same tested yarn

length

A further optional accessory is an optical entanglement sensor to

measure interlaces in a multilament yarn

With regard to testing technology and technical realization the

STATIMAT DS offers numerous technical and technological

novelties – for example a patented new capacitor design for

measurement of unevenness –, united with a new design

philosophy

Essential advantages of the STATIMAT DS:

Common use of all peripheral components of the tester like

package changer, threading mechanism for introducing the yarn

sample into the test sections, yarn feeding device, waste yarn

disposal, instrument housing with protective front panel, as well

Automatic tensile-, evenness-, and count tester STATIMAT DS

as control electronics including the PC-based Textechno TESTCONTROL system for the different test modules built in, which leads to a very economic price of the STATIMAT DS compared to 3 separate testing appliances

The operator has to present the test samples (yarn packages) only

to one instead of several different

t e s t e r s , w h i c h r e s u l t s i n considerable time- and labour savings All measured data are presented in one test protocol, so that the data can be easily interrelated, for example to calculate tenacity from the measured strength- and yarn-count values

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013

Automatic tensile, evenness and count tester STATIMAT DS

A.T.E.'s rising presence in clean technology

Most businesses are working to drive down costs while simultaneously reducing their environmental impact

For them, there cannot be a better option than innovative clean

technology solutions that offer a plethora of benets: both

economical and environmental A.T.E not only offers

differentiated clean technologies spanning energy, water and air,

including remote monitoring, but also domain expertise in

application areas, thus distinctly standing apart from a host of

other players in the eld

A.T.E is a reputed, diversied Indian engineering group, which is

on the threshold of celebrating its platinum jubilee (75 years) in

2014 A.T.E has long operated in the elds of textile engineering,

ow technology and print and packaging solutions The group

ventured into the clean technology space in 2006 with its entry

into Machine-to-Machine solution business, followed by energy

efcient cooling solutions and water and waste water

management

A.T.E.’s foray into clean technology is propelled by its passion “I

have always been passionate about the environment and

wanted to get involved in the environment movement and

socially useful businesses, particularly as I was deeply concerned

that India is one country that would be badly hit with climate

change”, said Mr Anuj Bhagwati, the head of the A.T.E Group,

who is spearheading A.T.E.’s clean tech drive

Here is an overview of A.T.E.’s clean technology businesses:

WATER AND WASTE WATER MANAGEMENT:

In the context of the increasing water scarcity, the need for water

and wastewater management and recycling cannot be

overemphasized A.T.E provides a comprehensive range of

state-of-the art technology solutions for the management of

water, and treatment and recycling of wastewater from within

the group as well as from various global leaders that it has tied-up

with

A.T.E Envirotech, an A.T.E group company, offers complete wastewater treatment and recycling solutions, including zero liquid discharge The company has already executed over

200 projects in India and other countries that include USA, Puerto Rico, Zambia, Philippines, Ethiopia, Malaysia and Indonesia

The company undertakes turnkey projects as well as upgradation of existing projects through value added products The company also undertakes complete project execution and commissioning, re-commissioning, trouble-shooting, etc In addition, it can also take-up comprehensive monitoring and maintenance contracts using innovative remote monitoring technologies

A.T.E works in municipal infrastructure water and wastewater projects and industry verticals like textiles, dairy, sugar, pharmaceuticals, petrochemical, chemical, healthcare, food-processing and building segment and has a base of satised customers across these verticals

Leveraging its in-house expertise, the company has developed the highly successful “AAA” process that enhances biological treatment efciency and minimizes sludge generation It also provides VSEP-EVR (Vibratory Shear Enhanced Processing- Evaporation Volume Reduction), a patented membrane based system from New Logic Research (for reducing the volume of wastewater going to evaporators in ZLD plants) While the VRM (Vacuum Rotating Membrane) based MBR systems from Huber, Germany, can handle difcult to treat efuents, the AVR (Anaerobic Venturi Reactor) based biomethanation plants

offer sustainable and trouble free operations

For energy efcient water ow management, A.T.E offers a wide range of pumping solutions from some of the world’s well-known brands and A.T.E ’s own ‘BoostStar’ hydro-pneumatic (HyP) pressure boosting systems The

‘BoostStar’ system is built with the most advanced features to manage the water ow of high-rise apartments, townships, bungalows/villas, commercial buildings such as malls, hotels and ofce buildings and also for industrial applications

A.T.E.’s customers include some well-known names such as

Mr Anuj BhagwatiManaging Director, A.T.E Enterprises Pvt Ltd

Chitale Dairy, Godavari Bio-reneries, Renuka Sugars,

Torrent Pharma, Cipla, Jeyavishnu Textile Processors, Indo

Rama, Larsen & Toubro, Vatech Wabag, Tata Steel, Voltas,

Municipal Corporations of Ahmedabad, Kolkata and Delhi,

etc

ENERGY EFFICIENT COOLING SOLUTIONS:

Cooling is a major contributor to energy consumption and

thus a major source of CO2 emission in the atmosphere

About 40% of a building’s energy consumption is from its

cooling requirements With increasing power scarcity, rising

electricity bills and mounting carbon emissions, there is a

great need to have energy efcient & eco-friendly cooling

systems

HMX Systems, an A.T.E group company, offers comfort

cooling solutions, providing comfort with better economy as

well as with lower carbon intensity

The rst of the innovative products developed by HMX

Systems was the ‘HMX-Ambiator’ It is a new generation two

stage evaporative cooling solution, providing ‘100%

fresh-clean-cool air’ and an energy efcient alternative to

conventional air-conditioners with up to 60% energy saving

HMX has subsequently launched HMX-Treated Fresh Air (TFA)

& HMX-Economizer

Comfort cooling by the principle of ‘two stage evaporative

cooling’ is a concept that is fast catching on It is a signicant

upgrade over air-washer (single stage evaporative cooling)

technology in the sense that it either ‘saves power for the same

cooling effect as an air-washer’ or ‘provides more cooling and

comfort than an air-washer’ for the same power Further, in case

of HMX-Ambiator, moisture addition in the conditioned space is

just 50% as that of air-washers Two stage evaporative cooling is

a fresh air solution So it is optimum for many applications such as

factory shed cooling and fringe areas in buildings Ambiators

further protect our environment by not using any ozone

depleting CFCs

HMX- TFA is an innovative technology product to supply

ltered-conditioned-fresh air in designated areas Highly energy

efcient solution for once-through and fresh air cooling

applications in industries, such as pharma, foods, beverages,

automobiles, etc It can be used in conjunction with AHUs / large

chiller installations for energy saving while treating the fresh air

intake in commercial buildings

HMX-Economizer is an energy recovery device & in turn

lowers the TR load on AC It helps in recovering the energy

from outgoing air & pre-cools the fresh air Since there is no rotating wheel, there will be no wear/tear, no deterioration of efciency over

a time & no cross contamination

Many studies point to the greater health & productivity of people working in ofces as well as in spaces that have signicantly higher fresh air component The higher air volumes of evaporative cooling systems (compared to air conditioning systems) provide greater comfort at higher temperatures In such situations, in many climates, two stage evaporative cooling is nding a niche today

The concept of comfort cooling, driven by a commitment for sustainability, is fast catching up in India as is borne out by the impressive list of large corporates who have installed the HMX-Ambiators for their ofces and factories Marquee names include: Volkswagen, Tata Motors, Bosch, ITC, to name just a few MACHINE-TO-MACHINE SOLUTIONS:

“If you can monitor equipment of whatever sort or buildings remotely, then you can ensure that they operate at optimal levels, in turn conserving energy and resources” said Mr Abhay Nalawade, Founder and Managing Director of EcoAxis, the A.T.E group company in the M2M business

Industrial equipment presents numerous complexities owing to changing technologies, difcult processes, different users, etc., which make the overall equipment optimization a humanly impossible task This leads to sub-optimization of equipment capabilities and wastage of resources The machine-to-machine technology platform developed by EcoAxis, precisely addresses this long-standing problem

EcoAxis’ product suite, which is called SuperAxis, captures various operational data based on the pre-determined parameters from industrial plants, equipment and utilities and transmits them to a central server, where the data is analyzed and archived Based on the analysis, the system triggers periodic or emergency notications

to the stakeholders on the machine performance and energy consumption Just as ‘a stitch in time saves nine’, the timely

n o t i  c a t i o n s h e l p s t a k e h o l d e r s t o t a k e n e c e s s a r y corrective/preventive action to not only improve the machine performance, but also optimize resource consumption

EcoAxis' solutions have vast applications, e.g., boilers, distilleries, water and waste water treatment plants, foundries, bottling plants, food processing units, power, water monitoring, carbon monitoring, etc With resource conservation moving to the top of the business agenda, the demand for this application in utilities is growing rapidly

EcoAxis is a pioneer in introducing this innovative technology in India and has gained widespread expertise over the years with the execution of a large number of prestigious projects, which includes remote monitoring of

T h e r m a x a b s o r p t i o n chillers, CEO dash board

f o r G o d a v a r i B i o reneries, thermal power plant monitoring for KSK Energy Ventures, etc., while many more such

-p r o j e c t s a r e i n t h e pipeline

Advt.

A

Editorial Note

For laying down the roadmap for the

growth of the textile industry in the

Twelfth Plan, it is necessary to know the views of economists and

academia An article from Dr G Bharathi Kamath, Associate

Professor and Dr Ritu Dewan, Director and Professor, Department

of Economics, University of Mumbai emphasizes on larger subsidies

and policy support for the informal sector and SMEs The

economists are of the view that, with China emerging as the

self-consuming economy and because of other factors like appreciation

of their currency and the increase in the cost of production, India has

a good chance in the international market

- Consulting Editor

There are no two opinions about the significance of textile industry

in India in terms of its contribution towards output, employment and

exports To present a quick over view, the sector contributes 14

percent to the industrial production, 4 percent to GDP and 17

percent to the export earnings of the country It provides direct

employment to more than 35 million people The growth and all

round development of this industry has a direct bearing on the

improvement of the economy of the nation According to the

working group of planning commission on textile industry, the

potential for significant growth in the Indian Textile Industry is

undisputed

• Textiles is one of the largest component of India’s

exports and can grow further and faster

creation in this sector

This is one sector where the competitiveness can be developed

quickly at minimal cost However it is possible only when the

multitude of problems and several contradictions that this industry

faces is overcome

The problems of the textile industry have its roots in a complex set of factors; including government policy, lack of modernization, diversification of company funds by mill owners, the growth of the power loom sector using the facilities and subsidies set aside for encouragement of handloom industry And thus an industry with huge potential and totally self-sufficient indigenous capacity, e.g Raw material (cotton), machinery, labour and a vast market, sank into messy crisis

In the year 2010-11, the mill sector contributed 4 percent to the production, the share of Powerloom sector, Handloom sector, Hosiery sector and Khadi / Wool & Silk was 61, 11, 23 and 1 percent respectively The exports of clothing & cotton textiles together were US $ 21500 of the total US $ 32350 for the year 2011-12 The textile industry employment in the year 2011 was 45.19 million and is projected to reach 52 million by 2016-17 The allied industry is a major source of employment with figures of 60.2 million in the year 2011, projected to reach 69 million by the end of twelfth plan period

There is a dominance of the decentralised powerloom and handloom sectors in the textile industry, which are mainly small and medium scale enterprises In fact, many of the large textile companies are also conglomerates of medium sized mills Statistics released by the Ministry of Textiles shows a highly fragmented industry, except in the spinning sub-segment The organised sector contributes over 95% of spinning, but hardly 5% of weaving fabric Small Scale Industries (SSIs) perform the bulk of the weaving and processing operations

The schemes offered by government for this sector ranges from welfare schemes, e-marketing schemes, skill development, credit and financial packages Besides providing various schemes, there are various other statutes, including fiscal policies (governing customs, excise, sales tax, etc.), rules, initiatives, incentives, etc through which government extends support to the industry

The paradox that is observed is that inspite of higher contribution of informal sector and SME’s as compared to large industries to production, export earning and employment generation, the extent of subsidies in terms of credit and policy benefits that they actually reap is least and this one major aspect that requires serious and immediate intervention from government

Lack of finance and poor technology is one of the oft repeated

19

TEXTILE INDUSTRY-GROWTH AND STRATEGIC PERSPECTIVE

“Reinventing Textile industry present to you bouquets of articles from different field, areas of expertise people about New

Textile the measures required to harness the full potential of the textile industry, which has so far remained tied in knots

because of various factors like conflicting claims of different segments of the industry, deficiencies in the economy, need for

further government support, adverse headwinds from the developed countries due to economic slowdown We are confident that our readers will appreciate bouquets of articles we present here We appreciate your comments and feedback on same

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013

and discussed problems about the textile industry; it is argued

that the large unorganized sector has poor capability to raise its

productivity, volumes and quality standards owing to poor

access to latest technologies and finances The paradox is that

the requirement of the funds could have been easily be

self-financed, but the contradiction is that the newer generation mill

owners had diverted funds indiscriminately from textile mills into

newer and more profitable industries, without long term

business interests There was hardly any ploughing back of

profits into modernising and replacing the old and worn

machinery

Another crucial aspect closely related to the former is on the

textile mill land, which is a pot of gold The mill owners claimed

that they need to raise money for urgently needed

modernization of their outdated machinery Over years there

has been a lot of tussle between the mill owners and workers

w.r.t land issues The money so raised was never used for the

technical progress either in terms of modernization or

upgradation of these industries This had its impact on lower

levels of productivity as well as profitability of the industry over

years This is another contradiction that inspite of having a

financial capabilities for technological upgradation, due to lack of

effective management and timely interventions, an opportunity

was lost

In the international market, India boasts of a strong raw material

production base, a vast pool of skilled and unskilled personnel,

sizable supply of fabric, cheap labour, good export potential and

low import content as some of the salient features and strengths

of its textile industry This is a traditional, robust, well-established

industry, enjoying considerable demand in the domestic as well

as global markets However, at the global level, India’s textile

exports account for just 4.72% of global textile and clothing

exports India’s presence in the international market is significant

in the areas of fabrics and yarn Quota constraints and

shortcomings in producing value-added fabrics and garments

and the absence of contemporary design facilities are some of

the challenges that have impacted textile exports from India

The potential size of Indian textile industry is expected to reach $

220 billion by 2020 Retail sector is one of the potential growth

sectors, as several international retailers are looking towards

India as a potential sourcing destination There is a marked shift

in consumer preferences towards man-made fibre and this

change is attributed to the changes in the level of disposable

income and consumption pattern Buyers need to diversify

sourcing risk is another factor which would boost export

growth

Another segment in fabric that is fast growing is the hygiene

products The national market is still in its incipiency stage,

however, there is a potential once the market penetrates and

grows beyond the urban areas However, the international

market is well developed for this segment

On the basis of its strengths and expected growth in potential

segments, India can aim to become a major outsourcing hub for

foreign manufacturers and retailers, with composite mills and

large integrated firms being their preferred partners It will thus

be essential for SMEs to align with these firms that can ensure a market for their products and new orders The focus should be

on research and development; India does not have expertise in synthetic yarn manufacturing, which is more durable than cotton and jute and demand for which is growing very fast in the market Though some interest has been shown by manufacturers in India, it has a huge potential which needs to be tapped

The SMEs in the powerloom and handloom sector will face significant churn in the future Spinning mills that account for 95%

of the yarn and fibre production, will move up the value chain into weaving This will erode the viability of the hitherto protected powerloom and handloom operators numbering over 400,000, who have remained insulated from competitive forces so far A possible remedy could be for these weavers to align with bigger players or integrate operations that would ensure off-take of their products

Another aspect in the international market is that China is viewed

as a competitor to Indian textile industry It must be noted that China is the leading sourcing base for textile and apparel with a majority share of about 35% of global exports However, rising labour cost and fast ageing population is one of the greatest challenges that is being faced by Chinese textile industry China has also become a self-consuming economy due to increase in per capita income and the consequent increase in domestic demand; also the Chinese currency is appreciating over a period

in the recent years These factors would definitely have a negative impact on its textile exports Indian industry must take this into account and try and capture the international market

A recent report on “benchmarking study of production costs in India vis-a-vis Bangladesh, China, Egypt, Indonesia, Pakistan and Turkey” observes that Indian textile industry has emerged to be competitive over years The impression that the labour productivity is lower than Bangladesh is false

The textiles sector has witnessed a spurt in investment during the last five years The industry (including dyed and printed) attracted foreign direct investments (FDI) worth Rs 5,831.02 crore (US& 854.78 million) during April 2000 to May 2013 This trend is welcome and its sustenance over longer period requires conscious effort in terms of provision of sufficient and reliable infrastructure facilities

There is a bright future for the industry as it stands with a competitive advantage in terms of raw-material and potential to grow and match up to meet the increasing international demand The industry has to explore strategies to tap the potential possibilities along with the government’s concerted policy effort

to seize the emerging opportunities The approach Paper of the eleventh planning commission on textile and jute industry also suggests that the private sector, small enterprises and the corporate sector have a critical role to play in achieving the objectives of faster and more inclusive growth, and has laid emphasis on policies aimed at creating an environment in which entrepreneurship can flourish

The textile industry has undergone major changes in recent years From an inward looking industry

essentially catering to the domestic market, it has now become a

vibrant exporter, bringing in precious foreign exchange While

continuing to be the largest employer in India after agriculture,

the industry has also been trying to modernise and invest in plant

and machinery to boost output Though the current economic

slowdown in Indian and global markets has slowed the tempo of

changes, it is clear that the textile industry is poised on the

threshold of an era of transformation

The process of globalisation has played its part in ushering in this

change Supplying to global players and addressing overseas

markets, the industry today is aware of the need to integrate its

value chains and to modernise its operations Underlining the

importance of the textile industry in India’s economic life, the

Government has also facilitated several welcome changes

Some of the policy initiatives introduced in recent years include

the Technology Upgradation Fund scheme, the Technology

Mission on cotton, Scheme for integrated textile park, reduction

in customs duty to import modern machinery, setting up of

apparel training and design centres, 100% foreign direct

investment in the sector, etc These are bound to have a positive

impact in the industry Several textile players have become

respectable brands in the global markets

For further expansion and growth, the textile industry has several

pluses in its favour In terms of domestic availability of major bres

and yarns, India has a strong base in raw materials, being among

the world’s leading nations in the production of cotton, jute and

silk As one of the oldest and established industries in India, it has

established facilities from spinning mills to garmenting units It has

a rich heritage to sustain the country’s considerable talent in

design and fashion In recent decades, the industry has also

gained considerable experience working with global rms

However, the country’s contribution to the world’s textile

output is about 3%, underlining the fact that there is tremendous

scope for growth The positive changes and modernisation

attempts are not uniform across various segments of the industry

or over the regional textile clusters of India The industry has to

scale up its exports and it also has to cater to the growing

requirements of a prosperous middle class that has the

purchasing power and access to global products This cannot be

done by an industry saddled with issues that hinder its growth

Some of these issues that need to be addressed for the Indian

textiles to grow to its potential are briey touched upon:

Consolidation and integration of units: At present, it is only the

spinning segment of the textile industry that has been consolidated

to a large extent Other segments like weaving, knitting and processing units still remain fragmented Thousands of units work in backward conditions without access to efcient processes, equipment or timely credit This has been an inheritance from the earlier years when several aspects of the textile industry had been reserved for the small scale sector and our processes were not geared up for the export markets In today’s changed context, to face the onslaught of global competition, Indian units have to hasten the move towards integration Consolidation will help the industry to operate with economies of scale so that it gets viable to infuse new technology, modernise equipment, increase output and improve quality

Automation and modern technology: Several studies have pointed out that by installing modern equipment textile units in India can achieve higher productivity and minimise fabric defects While the spinning segment has made progress on this front, modernisation is yet to happen in the weaving and related fabric manufacturing, and garment units Machines to provide higher speeds and wider widths and software to monitor the efciency

of operations are prerequisites for units that would like to make their mark in global markets

Removing infrastructural bottlenecks: Indian textile industry is seriously hampered by infrastructural bottlenecks Available and reliable power tops the list of infrastructural essentials Extended power outages have almost destroyed established textile centres like Coimbatore in Tamil Nadu While existing units are languishing, any talk of modernisation without access to power will be meaningless

Captive power is an option, but the small and fragmented nature

of textile operations call for co-ordination and planning among the various units for a common facility If common efuent treatment plants can work in textile industry clusters there is no reason why the concept of shared captive power plants cannot emerge as a viable option Textile associations and apex organisations can take the lead, and with the support of nancial institutions, local government and power developers this option can be the answer to the shortages that plague the industry People focus: As millions depend on this sector for their livelihood, we need measures to make the transition to a modernised industry as painless as possible Thousands of people continue to suffer as a result of the decline of textile units

in several parts of the country, especially in Mumbai Hence, as

we move ahead it is important to consider and resolve people related issues with sensitivity, in all aspects ranging from the choice of technologies and changes in labour laws to skill development and the offer of credit facilities

A well planned and comprehensive skill development plan has

to go hand in hand with enabling technologies and nancial support for modernisation Such a programme will prepare the ground for the change in the mindsets of people that is so necessary for transformations This again calls for an integrated approach involving agencies and people across various sectors

Mr K Chakravarthy, Global Vice President, Heating SBU,Themax Limited

21

A VIBRANT FUTURE FOR INDIAN TEXTILES !

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013

Ensuring internal efciencies: In the age of globalisation, a

host of factors such as sourcing, technology, wage structures,

governmental support etc contribute to the competitiveness

of enterprises However, many of these are dependent on

extraneous conditions and in the anxiety to inuence them,

often the conditions within the industry and within individual

units are neglected Prudent industrial practices show us that

there is immense scope for bringing in internal efciencies that

can result in incremental savings and add to the protability of

operations

Power shortage is endemic in the country and while grids and

captive power plants can alter the overall situation, there is

much that can be done internally to conserve this precious

resource On the energy side, fabric manufacturing needs

heating, cooling and power inputs and today there are viable

technologies like cogeneration and vapour absorption that

integrate these inputs to provide optimal efciencies Energy

audits to plug wasteful leaks and targeted retrots and upgrades

to bolster efciencies can help units improve their competitiveness Water, another essential resource, has already become as critical as power both in terms of availability and quality Again, textile units can make use of technologies to treat efuent and recycle water for their processes They can drastically bring down the spiralling cost of water and conserve the nation’s depleting stock of ground water

To conclude, as in every country that aims for the revival and expansion of its traditional industries, the Indian textile industry also will continue to need a supportive policy framework As indicated earlier, from the government there have been several enabling moves in the last decade, though what has been done tends to fall short of what needs to be done However, as a changed global economic context persuades every industry to look beyond state support and solutions, it is in the interests of our textile sector also

to harness its internal strengths and overcome its structural aws for

a vibrant phase of growth

22

The India’s job scene is quite gloomy

Although the poverty ratio has come down, it is still a frightening gure The unemployment ratio which had come down to 6.6 Per cent in 2009- 10, after touching a high of 8.2 Per cent in 2004-

05, once again took a U- turn in 2011-

2012, as per NSSO Report

When the scenario of job market is bleak, it is difcult to understand why the textile industry has been

facing paucity of workers But the fact remains that unavailability of

staff is hampering production at many centers

Why this situation?

Many people are of the view that because of the introduction

MNREGA, which assures jobs for a certain minimum days in a

year at pre-determined rates to at least one member of a family,

migration of the workers is reduced When jobs are available at

the doorstep, why should anyone look for pastures elsewhere, at

a distant place?

Another popular argument which makes rounds particularly in

the corridors of power is that the least developed or developing

states in the Indian Union have undertaken large programmes of

industrialization Hence opportunities are opening in the home

state only

There is onereasoning which is seldom considered With the

right to education, there is a considerable spread of education

even in rural and far- off areas Hence in the ranks of the

unemployed, the numbers of those who are unskilled or semi-

skilled may be going down, while numbers of unemployed

educated persons may be increasing

Whatever the reason, a solution has to be found out

Solution to the Problem

One solution is to start in rural areas If Mohammed cannot go to

the mountain, the mountain must go to Mohammed Cotton textile mills should preferably be located in the midst of a cotton belt However at such places, the young recruits are bound to be raw hands Hence, the problem of training will arise

If there is a cluster of a few mills in a cotton belt, it is possible to take a centralized training facility More often than not, this is not likely to happen In such cases, individual units will have to adopt TWI (Training within the Industry) method Under Central Skill Development programme, It is necessary to give suitable grants in both the cases

The units working on man- made bres could be located at semi- urban areas and here also the Government grant is necessary for training purposes

Another solution may be to change the stafng pattern Instead of selecting persons with a minimum level of education, mills/factories may employ educated persons at a slightly higher level Such persons may require less guidance of supervisory staff, and to that extent it may be possible to reduce the strength of supervisory cadre Some factories may like to consider this suggestion

Amendments to Labour LawWomen workers are not allowed to work from 10 Pm to 5 am (Next day) as Per proviso to section 66(b) of the Factories Act.There is no point in continuing with this discriminatory provision, as male workers have no restriction The relaxation can be given, subject to Mills/ factories adhering to conditions to ensure safety and protection and no harassment of any nature to women

ILO allows 50 hours overtime per month while Indian law allows 50 hours overtime per quarter This anomaly needs to be corrected Mexico works on a 10 hour basis and the workers enjoy a 5 day week Even when workers operate on overtime, they still have a day off Further, the trade unions endorse overtime for the workers The Ministry for Textiles needs to work with the Labour ministry to resolve this issue The issue of time exibility also needs to be addressed

HR DIMENSION TO THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY

A

A

Mr Mohan Kavrie in his hard hitting interview strongly emphasized

that without the availability of knowledge and experienced

academic staff, it is difcult to get trained person for technical

textiles This is serious matter & it calls for out of the box thinking to

solve the riddle

Technical Textiles is a highly specialized line of production with

tremendous potential India should not miss the bus, which

normally happens The success of Technical Textiles depends

upon original research, availability of trained technicians and

workmen, domestic availability of required inputs like man-made

bres including lament yarns at international prices and statutory

support wherever possible

India is largely depending on borrowed technology In such a

situation India cannot occupy the place of pride in the eld of

Technical Textiles We give below considered views of renonwed

expert Mr Mohan Kavrie, who is father gure of Technical texile

industry

TVC : How do we create a strong scientic facility for technical

textiles? Since the sizes of units are comparatively small, do you

recommend Government setting up Research facility or not?

Will this require a fund of Rs 400-500 Crore in the 12th plan, if

your answer is in the afrmative? Or If your answer is negative,

What is your suggestion for creation of a strong Research

facility/ facilities

MK : This is like a chicken and egg situation, very difcult to answer

Even if government funds are available where are the people ie

Human resource to handle it ? Do we have required type of

people it in industry? My answer is No

Industry does not want to share their knowledge and research

after spending handsome funds on R &D Academics, professors,

persons with doctorates in specialized subjects only have text book

knowledge

Consultants have limited knowledge and no practical hands on experience They claim to have knowledge, but they have conventional textile experience

Center of Excellence have limited resources and knowledge In most areas they do not have any knowledge

Conventional textile experts have knowledge due to long history, Industry of teaching courses, research experience, knowledge imparted though various media, channels, etc

The current scenario is that the educated goes to the industry to get deeper knowledge, while a person engaged in the industry goes to educational institute in search of knowledge

TVC : Do you recommend a separate degree course for Technical Textiles, with specialization in different branches like Meditex nonwovens, Sports Textiles etc or a combination thereof, where preliminary knowledge of the particular eld would be imparted?

MK : At international level, very few countries have degree courses in technical textiles However many have Post-Graduate degree courses Internationally technical textile associations are very strong They impart knowledge If we set

up degree courses for technical textile, where is a trainer? First trainer should be trained before training / teaching

TVC : What about statutory support? For example, should it not be compulsory to use re- retardant fabrics in cinema theatres?

MK : Yes, it helps TVC : What kind of assistance from Government do you expect for Technical textile?

MK : Government already done their work, they developed Centers of Excellence and research facility etc Now the ball is in the court of industry and educationists

TVC : Now a days, many industries prefer textiles rather than any metal or other element What is the reason behind it?

MK : Few industry it is mandatory to use Textile, others are for their biological property they use textiles then other elements

In India, civil construction not updated due to corruption

KNOWLEDGE IS MAJOR HINDRANCE IN TECHNICAL TEXTILES !

25

Mr MOHAN KAVRIE

MD & Chairman Supreme Group

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013

PolyOne Corporation, a global provider of specialised polymer

materials, services and solutions, is to expand its operations in India

The company has begun construction on a new state-of-the-art facility

in Pune, India, that will manufacture speciality materials, including solid

masterbatch, liquid colorant and additives

The facility will operate development labs and the sales and customer

service centre for the region, and it is expected to open in the rst

quarter of 2014

"With advanced design capabilities and enhanced manufacturing

exibility, we will offer customers in India an even broader array of

solutions and improved delivery times," said Vikas Vij, managing director

POLYONE TO EXPAND OPERATIONS IN INDIA

for PolyOne's operations in India "Demand for advanced speciality solutions in India is increasing – particularly in automotive, packaging, wire and cable and healthcare – and our expanded presence will position PolyOne exceptionally well to collaborate with and serve our customers."

Robert Patterson, executive vice-president and chief operating ofcer

at PolyOne, added that consistent with the company’s global expansion strategy, the investment in India augments other recent announcements, including a new joint venture specialty colorant facility in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, and plans to begin thermoplastic elastomer production in Sao Paulo, Brazil

Reference : www.wtin.com

The Indian Textile Industry (TI) is critically important to the

Indian economy as it contributes 4% to India’s GDP, 14% to India’s

Industrial production and 17% to India’s export earnings Decades

ago, it was responsible for 33% of India’s export earnings It is

needless to mention that the Indian TI is the largest employer after

agriculture employing 35 million people There was an

expectation that India’s textile and apparel industry (domestic +

export) would grow from US$ 70 million to US$ 220 million by

2020 In order to help the TI to grow in the expected manner, it is

essential that there is a strong Indian Textile Engineering Industry

(TEI) which is capable of producing all types of textile machinery

qualitatively and quantitatively to make the textile industry

competitive in the world market The domestic TEI should

provide state-of-the-art textile engineering solutions to meet the

true growth potential of the Indian textile industry

The future Textile Policy should be- to facilitate unhindered growth

of the textile industry with a balanced long term policy right from the

raw material to the finished products in a holistic manner In the

past, it was observed that there had been kneejerk reactions from

the Government for different sectors of the textile industry which

resulted in imbalance and hampered the growth Therefore right

from the cultivation of cotton, production of cotton, its ginning,

other raw materials, spinning to the garmenting, a holistic approach

needs to be made

Some firm policies would be needed for import and export of

cotton and yarn which should not be altered except under

extraneous emergent circumstances

All sectors of the domestic textile industry should be given

complete support to face the international challenges Every sector

needs to get appropriate incentives and financial assistance in a

balanced manner for optimization of the overall growth The

industry must have all its inputs such as raw material, consumables,

machinery, power and skilled labour, uninterruptedly at reasonable

cost

We normally compare India with other countries particularly China

and say that why we cannot make ourselves competitive and

export oriented like China The difference between the Indian

textile industry and Chinese textile industry is so large and it is not

very clear whether we would be in a position to reach the level of

50% of Chinese textile industry While India has 34 million working

spindles, China has above 120 million spindles In the case of

shuttleless looms, we have hardly 1,30,000 shuttleless looms as

against 7.20 lakh shuttleless looms in China The textile production

is hardly 10% of the Chinese production of US$ 700 billion In case

of textile machinery our production is at US$ 1 billion as against

approximately US$ 10 billion of China China does not import

TEXTILE POLICY-MEASURES REQUIRED TO HARNESS THE FULLPOTENTIAL OF

THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY

second hand machinery whether it is textile or not while in India such machinery is freely permitted without any restriction China forced the foreign/European machinery manufacturers to set up their manufacturing facility As a result, today China is the largest producer of textile machinery producing entire range of hi-tech machinery Whereas in India, we do not have the entire range of hi-tech machinery While we are very good in Ginning and Spinning machines, good in Weaving Preparatory and Processing Machines We cannot produce hi-tech weaving machinery, knitting machinery, garment making machinery, non-woven machinery and other technical textile machinery

The Textile Engineering Industry which was the prime mover for the textile industry during 60s, 70s and 80s suffered a serious setback during 90s after the liberalization of import and trade policies of the Government As a matter of fact, the entire capital goods sector per say was severely affected due to the sudden liberalization

If we look at the developed countries, we will find that the technology and engineering was the prime mover Every such country has helped their machinery manufacturing sector to grow consistently.However, during the post era of liberalization, the country moved towards import oriented growth, thereby creating a trade imbalance

There is an absolute need that the domestic textile engineering industry should grow, compete and export It should be able to provide strong support to the Indian textile industry to make it vibrant and competitive It should acquire technological strength

in all sectors as in the case of Ginning and Spinning through FDI and R&D and meet 70-75% of the demand of Indian textile industry for high tech machinery from the current position of 40-45% India should become a manufacturing hub for textile machinery, parts & components and accessories contributing further to employment generation and GDP

At present, the TEI consist of more than 1,400 units with a total investment of Rs.7,800 crores The total capacity is only Rs.9,100crore and it provides direct/indirect employment to over 250,000 people More than 85% of the units are SMEs The TEI is mainly dependent on the domestic demand as a result, itsuffers periodic highs and lows which can be seen from the following statement:-

MR S CHAKRABARTY,SECRETARY GENERAL

TEXTILE MACHINERY MANUFACTURERS’ ASSOCIATION (INDIA)

The TEI is suffering from the issues like lack of level playing

field.Duties and taxes are not compensated against

imports.Largenumber of SMEs does not have access to funds, lack

of modernization and technology upgradation, lack of research &

development and skill upgradation, lack of policy supports from

the Government There is an absolute need for modernization of

the SMEs in the Textile Engineering Industry The modernization

fund with interest subvention and upfront margin money subsidy

is absolutely necessary to upgrade the manufacturing technology

of the SMEs to achieve the long term goal This could be in line

with the TUFS for the textile industry

The domestic machinery manufacturers should be encouraged to

manufacture high tech machinery for the weaving sector For this

purpose, the import of parts/components spares & accessories of

shuttleless looms including electronic dobby, electronic jacquard

should be allowed at nil duty without any condition/restriction

whatsoever This would facilitate fast development of high tech

shuttleless looms in the country It should be kept in mind that

such critical parts and components if imported cannot be used

anywhere other than in the shuttlelessloom itself Similar

approaches should be under taken for the manufacture of other

high tech machines which are not being manufactured

indigenously

Present infrastructure for R&D is inadequate for the promotion of

R&D.There should be more infrastructure facility at different

clusters in the country in the form of Common Facility Centres A

fund should be created for giving grants for acquisition of technical knowhow from overseas This would facilitate the availability of technology for high tech machinery

The present policy of the Government does not attract FDI in the textile engineering sector specifically weaving machinery sector,the primaryreason being the import of second hand machinery in large numbers It should be kept in mind that no foreign machinery maker would like to compete with its own machinery which is coming in second hand/used condition We cannot expect any FDI so long as this policy remains

China produces low tech, medium tech as well as high tech textile machinery If we desire to manufacture high tech textile machinery,

we need to dis-incentivise the import of low tech machinery from China It is needless to point out that unless the domestic textile machinery makers are able to compete with the Chinese machinery,

it would be a futile attempt for them to go in for production of high tech machinery

Competitiveness of an industry comes with a level playing field.Unless the domestic manufacturers are confident to compete, there would be no more investments.Therefore, the future textile policy must have inbuilt provisions for the technological and machinery development in the country so that the cost of investment

of the textile industry remains at a reasonable level One thing is sure, without a vibrant Textile Engineering Industry there could not be a jubilant Textile Industry

27

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013

This article based on speech deliverd by Shri Manikam

Ramaswami at the AGM of TEXPROCIL held on 30th September,

2013

Our Textile Industry : Over the years, our textile industry in

many ways has been seen as a story of Six blind men & an

Elephant!

Texprocil has the responsibility to promote the exports of the

entire value chain are the starting point to having a harmonious

growth in textile exports

Thus, for the effective functioning of TEXPROCIL, it is important to

comprehend the basic nature of the industry, resolving the apparent

differences through data and logic, setting ground rules and forging an

agenda for action based on inclusive and equitable growth of all the

segments of the textile value chain

The Basic Facts of our Industry

The beauty of the vast textile industry in India lies in the fact that

the output of each member of the value chain can be exported

Intermediary products such as ginned cotton, cotton yarn, cotton

fabrics are all as much exportable as the finished “cut & sew”

products

At each level of the value chain we have in excess of 30% surplus

capacity after meeting the domestic needs

Each member of the value chain therefore looks at the world at

this market & aspires to have all the advantages that the next

Our Textile Industry by Shri Manikam Ramaswami, Chairman, TEXPROCIL ( THE COTTON TEXTILES EXPORT PROMOTION COUNICL OF INDIA)

member of the value chain has in discovering the maximum price it can get through global engagement

Setting the Ground Rules:

Towards this end, certain ground rules need to be identified and articulated for maximizing the benefits for the entire value chain

In this connection, texprocil has articulated certain ground rules as follows :

1 All members of the value chain should have unrestricted ( quantity) access to international markets and prices

2 Each exporting member of the value chain should get its raw material at equal to or lower price, than the international value adding companies ( net of the component of drawback associated with its raw material.)

If we ensure that the above two are in place, then we would have put in place the safeguards to have

For complete speech please log on to : www.textilevaluechain.com

and read more about, Studies on benchmarking of production costs, attaining global competitiveness, Export Promotion Schemes: Need for Greater Logic, Showcasing our competitiveness- Evolving Strategy, Need to create positive image

The global market for textile machinery was estimated at USD 30 billion in 2010 and there has been a steady improvement in the new investments in primary textile manufacturing, mainly in Asia, in the last three years After China, India emerged as the second largest investor in textile machinery This trend boosted the competitiveness of the textile industry in terms of productivity, quality and cost

According to ITMF (International Textile Manufacturers Federation) Shipments of short staple spinning machinery reached a peak in 2010 From a low level of 7.1 million spindles in 2009, shipments reached 14.3 million in 2011 before dropping to 10.5 million in 2012 On an average, India has been adding 2 million spindles in recent years As a result of constant investments, today over 40% of India's installed spinning equipment is considered fairly modern

Investments in downstream processes such as weaving and knitting witnessed a surge in recent years Shipments of shuttle-less weaving machines jumped 43% from 107,000 in 2010 to 154,000

in 2011 before dropping to 86,000 in 2012 India's investment in modern weaving machines has signicantly improved as reected in increase in shipment of 10,198 machines in 2012 against 3,464 machines in 2009 (ITMF) However, there is still a tremendous potential for India's weaving industry to retool and expand

Worldwide shipments of new circular knitting machines increased from 28,000 in 2011 to 36,000 in 2012, 92 % of which were in Asia India installed 1200 new circular knitting machines in 2012 preceded by 1470 machines in 2011 This was however dwarfed

by China's 29,000 machines installed in 2012

Global competitiveness of the Indian textile industry

A recent international benchmarking study conducted by Gherzi Textil Organisation which was commissioned by TEXPROCIL and released by the Union Minister of Textiles clearly established that the global competitiveness of the Indian textile industry had improved in the last ten years The factors responsible for the competitiveness included factor costs such as power and wages,age

of technology and equipment, raw material cost and macroeconomic factors such as exchange rate The study highlighted the positive impact of government policy, especially TUFS, on improving the industry's long term competitiveness Evolution of the textile machinery industry

The global textile machinery has been evolving in the last one hundred years much like the textile and clothing industry The industry moved closer to where the production of textiles took place Historically, England had a strong textile machinery industry

to meet the requirements of its large domestic textile industry In

1900 England had 45 million spindles of the global installed capacity

of 105 million spindles India had 4.5 million spindles and there was negligible industrialized spinning activity in China.Altogether, the spinning capacity was concentrated in the West i.e., UK, Europe and USA In 1980, when the global installed spinning capacity reached 158 million, spinning capacity in the U.K., had declined to a mere 1.7 million spindles Fast forward into 2010, China and India had 115 million and 44 million of the world's installed capacity of

240 million spindles During this period, the textile machinery

OPPORTUNITIES AND CHALLENGES FACED BY THE INDIAN TEXTILE ENGINEERING INDUSTRY

Personal Prole

Mr Navdeep Singh Sodhi is a textile industry economist with 25 years

of international experience.His expertise includes strategy,

technology and international trade and investment He consults for

international development institutions and the corporate textile

industry organizations worldwide He contributed to the formulation

of the perspective plan for Indian textile engineering industry (TEI) and

conducted an international benchmarking study to evaluate the

competitiveness of the Indian textile industry for TEXPROCIL Mr

Sodhi is a partner with Gherzi Textil Organisation, Switzerland

Organisation Prole

Gherzi is a leading industrial consulting company founded in Zurich

in 1929 With its global presence the company offers integrated and

independent services to the textile and garment industry in the

elds of strategic management, international benchmarking,

engineering, technical textiles ,logistics and nance Gherzi has over

50 years of presence in India which was recently strengthened

through its subsidiary Gherzi Consulting Engineers Pvt Ltd

Mr Navdeep Singh Sodhi Partner

manufacturing activity also relocated to Asia It is worth mentioning

here that the gures stated here are in absolute numbers without

accounting for productivity differences

Global textile machinery industry today

In 2010, the global textile machinery industry was estimated at

US$ 30 billion, excluding accessories Out of this short staple

spinning and man-made bre machinery represented two largest

segments at US$ 5.2 billion and 4 billion respectively, followed by

industrial stitching, knitting and weaving machinery The

accompanying exhibit(Table x)shows the geographical repartition of

the global textile machinery industry clearly reecting China's

dominant position and showing that hi-tech advanced machinery

still being built in EU and Japan

Indian textile machinery

The Indian textile engineering industry has achieved signicant

growth in the last ve years although further growth potential exists,

especially in the downstream processes such as weaving and

knitting The output of the textile engineering industry increased

from Rs.4,400 crores in 2005-06 to Rs.5650 crores in 2012-13 of

which 25% was exported India is self-sufcient in spinning

machinery however remains import dependent in weaving, knitting

and garmenting machines as well as sophisticated dyeing and

nishing equipment Imports of textile machinery amounted to

Rs.8,558 crores in 2012-13

According to the “Vision 2020 Perspective Plan” for the Indian

textile engineering industry prepared by Gherzi, the industry has

the potential to grow at a CAGR of 6% to achieve a volume of Rs

12,000 crores by 2019-20 and even greater if appropriate steps are

taken by all stakeholders

Demand driving trends

There are four major trends that are driving the innovation in

textile manufacturing processes and guiding the machinery

manufacturers in adapting their machines to sustainable industrial

development

 Energy conservation is driving innovation in wet processing

(dyeing and nishing) The choice of the most efcient process and

related equipment could save an important amount of energy

Empirical studies show up to 70% energy saving potential in four

key processes such as water removal, heating, reduced material to

liquor ratio and heat recovery

 Fundamental changes are taking place in the bre-mix used in

production of textile consumption In the long run ber

consumption is forecast to grow at 3% p.a till 2030 due to increase

in population coupled with improvement in living standards in

developing countries The total bre demand is forecast to increase

from 85 million tons in 2012 to 137 million tons in 2030 with

growing share of man-made bres In 1950, cotton had a share of

74% in global bre consumption however by 2030, man-made and

non-cotton bres are predicted to occupy 79% The growing

demand for synthetic bres, particularly laments, will have a

signicant impact on the textile machinery industry in future

§ Textile industry is one of the heaviest users of water In 2011,

Greenpeace published a report provocatively titled Dirty Laundry,

unravelling the impact of toxic discharges on pollution in China The

report provided scientic evidence of increase in amounts of

hazardous chemicals released in China's main rivers Yangtze and

Pearl River deltas In response, several major brands such as

H&M,Addidas,C&A,Nike,Levi Strauss and Uniqlo launched

initiatives “committed to eliminate all releases of hazardous chemicals from the entire global supply chain by 2020” Leading chemical suppliers, such as Huntsman have been a playing a catalyst role in green initiatives Huntsman is “helping mills to benchmark their processes, optimise their performance and actively participating in the Roadmap to Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals” (Road to Zero) Similar initiatives have been taken by established continuous machinery manufacturers such as Benninger to economise resource consumption in the processing of textile materials However there are further potentials for innovation in reducing resource consumption in textile materials such as denim fabrics

 Automation in manufacturing processes is another crucial factor guiding textile machinery manufacturers Due to high cost and scarcity of skilled operators and growing reluctance on the part of workers to perform mundane tasks, conventional material transportation processes in textile manufacturing are being automated Spinning industry has achieved quite a lot in this area whereas research activities in eliminating labour intensive tasks in weaving, such as fabric inspection are in being undertaken In garment assembly, high end shirting fabric and apparel producer Lu Thai has 'invented' the silhouette shirts with taping or fusing of stiches The stitch-less shirt is produced using a fully automated apparel assembly process and sans sewing thread

Opportunities for the Indian textile engineering industrThe Indian textile machinery industry has further potentials to grow to meet the increasing demands for the domestic textile industry as well as exports The industry has potential to double its output to reach US$2 billion in the next ten years provided all hands are on the deck

 The Indian textile engineering industry will signicantly benet from injection of FDI -100% or through joint venture route The opportunity to tap Western OEM does will not be available perpetually and therefore needs to be pursued with earnestness China has made strategic acquisitions to maintain

a technological edge Chinese machinery manufacturers have also indicated interest in assembly of textile equipment in India

 Although several Indian textile machinery manufacturers have upgraded their facilities most still suffer from obsolete plants There is a need to modernise and expand these facilities

 The government should also consider extension of TUFS to the engineering industry to meet the technological gap and achieve import substitution Recent government policy initiative to reduce the interest rate subsidy on second hand looms is a step in the right direction (although ideally,no second hand machines should receive any government grants)

 Textile machinery manufacturers also need to embrace modern management techniques to attract highly talented manpower and professionalise their sales and marketing processes

Mr Navdeep Singh Sodhi is a partner with Gherzi Textil Organisation(www.gherzi.com) and an international textile industry economist.Gherzi is an international consulting organisation established in Zurich since 1929 and with presence

of over 50 years in India, providing consulting services in the area

of management and operations, engineering, technical textiles and corporate nance

The Indian Textile industry is expected to reinvent itself

through the scheme for Integrated Textile Parks and there are

now 61 such textile-apparel parks across the country The

process of setting-up of the textile parks started in 2005 i.e

immediately after the dismantling of quotas (which ideally

should have been initiated at last 5 years before!) with over

Rs.4000 Cr as estimated outlay Out of the 61 parks, 21 are

relatively new projects with an outlay of Rs.2329 Cr Most of

these projects are concentrated in the States of Andhra

Pradesh, Karnataka, Maharashtra, Rajasthan and Tamil Nadu

The original textile map of the country as seen from the point

of view of employment gures in T&C industry had the

following States with maximum textile-apparel clusters : Tamil

Nadu (27%), West Bengal (11%), Karnataka (11%), Gujarat

(10%), Maharashtra (8%), Haryana, Rajasthan & Punjab (5%

each) and so on If these major traditional textile clusters and

new textile parks as hyper activity Centres run to full capacity

and stride towards the direction which the Government of

India and many State Govts have envisaged, the Indian textile

and apparel value chain would have by now made an impact

in the Global Textile Apparel Market place An Evaluation

Study report of the scheme (January 2013) has observed that

the scheme of Textile Parks has helped in upgrading

technologies, and raising more industry support with only

40% grant support coming from Government of India

There are 592 operational units in 26 parks in 9 states and the

scheme has been instrumental in developing a wide range of

models including green clusters, a 1000 acre FDI driven

integrated cluster, 100 acre powerloom clusters, 20 acre

handloom clusters etc In the years from 2009-10 to

2012-13, Rs.1276 Cr have been allocated for Integrated Skill Parks

and for 12th FYP also over Rs.1900 Cr have been allocated

for further development Therefore there has been intent,

action and funds allocation to revive textile-apparel chain in

the country especially from 2005, an inection point in many

ways Then what ails this age old industry and the apparel-led

textile value chain which was trumpeted around? Despite

attempts to develop such world class infrastructure why is that

Indian textile and apparel value chain is not being seen as a

dominant global force ?

It is abundantly clear that the Preparatory Phase prior to 2005

which was available to the T&C industry was used mostly by

the spinning industry and has been woefully missed out by apparel industry and also not sufciently used by the textile weaving industry Completely absent from the scene was the processing part of the chain which has proved to be the Achilles heel in the T&C industry’s forward strides

A study by ICRIER (2010) had indicated that availability of power,

uctuating raw-material costs, high transaction costs and corruption are major constraints faced by the Indian Textile-Apparel Industries Along with macro / micro level constraints there are also rm level constraints which were identied which included insufcient investment in modernization and absence

of necessary skilled workforce and lack of international marketing capabilities Many of the exporters have pointed out also about labour compliance as one of the key constraints, along with lack

of sufcient focus and funds for R&D efforts

The National Skill Development Corporation’s Textile Sector report for 2022 had interalia projected, the main challenges before the T&C industry as : -

• Increasing productivity by leveraging technology

• Enhancing productivity by Investing in IT

• Improving productivity by Investing in Brand building

• Advancing competitiveness by focusing on other international markets in addition to US & UK

• Focusing on Innovation, acquisition or skills etc

The report also observed that the share of shuttle less looms in Indian textile industry is only 2-3% against a world average of 16.9% thereby indicating a low degree of modernization in the Indian textile weaving industry Further, it was pointed out that though Indian spinning sector is relatively more modernized, about 60% of the installed spindles are more than 10 years old and Open End (OE) Rotors account for only 1% of the total installed spindles In the apparel sectors also, India has considerably lower investment in Special Purpose Machines and

IT integration which affect the productivity and cycle times adversely

India with more 1.2 billion population with GDP per capita (on PPP basis) of Rs 3851.3 in 2012, is undoubtedly a large consuming market The main reason for lack of visible progress

of the industry is the failure to recognize the need to change the perspective from that of ‘Textile & Clothing Industries’ to ‘Fashion

& Lifestyle Industries’ eco-system, driven by the Global Fashion Supply Chain with both exports and domestic industry as two sides of the same coin The Textile Ministry has recently raised an export target for T&T sector to US$ 41 billion from US$ 38 billion for the current year 2012-13 and the recent Rupee depreciation is expected to help the cause to some extent The trade pact with EU which was seen as a silver lining seem to have receded which will make it tougher to achieve such ambitious targets

JOURNEY FROM TEXTILE & CLOTHING (T&C) TO FASHION & LIFESTYLE (F&L) :

FASHIONING A NEW ECO-SYSTEM

DG & CEO, ATDC & IAM &

Former Director, NID, Ahmedabad and Founding Head of

Fashion Management at NIFT

India has become part of a global fashion value chain, since the

economic liberalization began However, when it comes to

Textiles and Apparel we seem to have lost the plot to achieve a

dominant position in the global market place The industry,

Govt and other stakeholders continue to view the

textile-apparel industry in a rather fragmented manner The moment

the approach is changed to a sharper focus on the ultimate

‘consumer’, moving away from the current fragmented

approach, the industry will be enabled to absorb changes and

move forward In a recent forensic report on competitiveness

(2013) made by an AEPC’s overseas consultant it has been

reported that India has become expensive in terms of sourcing

of garments because of erratic power supply, poor logistics

support, dysfunctional labour regulations and that of restraining

the garment sector’s growth by conning to SME etc The

report also indicated that in Asia, any increase in productivity is

linked to ‘labour skills’ and therefore, the quality and efciency of

training are paramount Of course, the ISDS of MoT, GOI is an

effort towards improving the skill levels of the shopoor

workforce to a higher level through rigorous training and

organizations like ATDC has been in the forefront by training

over 65,000 candidates during the Pilot Project Period

(2011-2013) to provide wage employment to over 75% of the trained

candidates, while contributing to over 50% of Ministry’s own

skilling targets

In addition, there has been a widening hiatus between Indian

domestic and export industries The export industry knows

manufacturing very well whereas the Indian domestic industry

never really got a grip of assembly line manufacturing of apparel;

but on the other hand the domestic industry knows brand

building quite well which the export industry does not

understand much about ! With such a scenario if the industry and

policy makers expect the textile parks or clusters which have

been set-up with great hopes to become new manufacturing

clusters led-by innovation, the hopes may be belied Over the

decades with ‘turf protection syndrome’, various segments of

Textile-Apparel industry had worked sometimes in direct conict

or in isolation and such ‘silos’ have cost India’s global leadership

position It is time to correct this through strong policy

interventions and by bringing in a new dynamism to this age old

industry to reinvent with a focus on developing an “Indian

Fashion Eco-system” Today competing countries like China

uses Indian cotton to advance its garment exports and

Bangladesh consumes Indian textiles to promote its apparel

exports and both the countries have emerged in a stronger

position whereas India has remained a marginal player It is

important to have competent technical personnel and highly

skilled workforce so that both productivity and efciency can go

up I would suggest the following steps to address some of the

challenges and issues addressed in the preceding paragraphs

:

1.Cohesive Strategy for new Fashion & Lifestyle Eco-system

: To bring under one umbrella, the ever combative textile &

apparel segments under a joint ‘Coordination committee of

Secretaries’ towards creating a more cohesive approach to drive

a fashion-lifestyle driven new eco-system A closer coordination

with various segments of the industry by aligning various schemes which are often seen in conict with each other to move towards a model of ‘fashion eco-system’ in the need of the hour The fashion consumers in India and overseas should

be clearly the focus of the frame If the whole industry can focus on consumers wherever they are, the entire spectrum

of the textile rainbow will be visible instead of the vibgyor

2.Upskilling Apparel Sector : The need to provide skills for the rural and urban youth cannot but be over emphasized especially to join the Apparel workforce as the industry decongests to work to move rural areas where labour are in abundant supply All efforts need to be made to reskill the existing labour also as the technologies have changed and the need is to shape a more skilled labour force with industrial work culture A skilled operator can be a proactive tool for achieving increased efciency and productivity, provided he or she is sufciently incentivized

right-3 Unleashing Knowledge Capital : A panel of successful alumni from institutes like NIFTs or other Centres of Excellence under MOT / Ministry of Commerce / HRD could

be proactively used for improving the fashion eco-system since the councils most often do not have right technical or fashion trained personnel on its legacy rolls For instance the Visual Merchandisers from these Institutes could be used to improve the fairs and exhibitions or to create virtual ‘fashion galleries’ on line updated every day or every hour than waiting for projecting garments in one or two isolated fairs or exhibitions

4 Technology to the Forefront : The role of technology needs to be placed central to the new strategy of making Indian Fashions Global Indian demographic dividend i.e the

IT Savy youth population or digital natives’ generation are the key to unleashing a new dynamism to this age old industry in the era of ‘e-tailing’ and ‘android phones’, so that Indian can emerge victorious in ‘time-based’ competition for fashion goods

5 Academia-Industry Collaboration for Research and Innovation: There are 18 NIFTs set-up in the country apart from the decades old IITs and I was part of the founding faculty team at NIFT from 1987-2000 and our vision was to make Indian fashions stand out in the global market place There are talents galore but Indian designs still lag behind as designers fear to tread the unknown and create their own styles after detailed reaserch ‘Incrementalism’ is certainly an enemy of

‘innovation’ More efforts are needed to create a synergy between academia and industry

6 GenNext Entrepreneurs through Incubation : It will be too much to expect the earlier generation of pioneering garment exporters who have done yeomen service for the industry, to project India in the world scenario any more and, therefore, there is an urgent need to discover the GenNext Entrepreneurs and encourage incubation of ideas through a National Fashion Incubation System

7 Convergence of Retail and Exports : I have been

involved with Indian textile and apparel industry i.e both

exports and retail arena for a long time and it is very interesting

that if you go to attend or speak at ‘Retail Seminar’ you will not

nd any exporters in the audience and if you go to any export

related conference, you will hardly spot a retailer Only in

India this would happen For a large consumer market like in

India both cannot afford to exclude each other in this manner

and the time has come to devise a ‘convergent approach’

8 Creating ‘Hyper Activity ’ Centres focused on

Innovation : As postulated at the very beginning of this article

with 61 Govt supported textile parks and 113 textile-apparel

clusters (identied in a study at NIFT), there is enough scope

to specialize in different product categories and to be

innovation driven to make a true differential impact Today’s

clusters are rather faceless Unique differential creation can

only come through proper Research and innovation driven

approach

9.Aligning Vision and Action : Unfortunately, there is a huge

gap between vision and action There are numerous reports

available with Govt., Industry associations / councils and more

are brought out every year However, when it comes to

action in there is such a yawning gap between the

recommendations and on the ground implementation We

need to develop a sense of urgency if we have to capture a

better share in world market and more importantly,

imagination to see beyond the ‘silos’ to visualize a Fashion &

Lifestyle Eco-system where every person-man, woman, child

is seen as a global consumer looking for clothing options

including accessories for suit his or her lifestyles

10.Talent, Tolerance, Technology : It is said that there will

be ‘creative class’ emerging where there is talent, tolerance

and technology Fashions like, IT industry follows this norms

India needs to project more cities as ‘creative cities’ to

develop more fashion ideas for the world, especially since for

the rst time, 500 million youth of India has a chance to

inuence global youth fashions

11 Sustainability as a focus for future of Indian Textile and

Fashion Industries : India has the best chance in climbing the

ladder of world fashions provided she carries one herself

Mahatma Gandhi’s model of producing sustainable Khadi was

an indicative effort which is relevant even today and this needs

to be telescoped to create a fashion industry for the future,

especially considering that sustainably has become a new

vector, redening fashions around the world

CASELET ON SRI LANKAN APPAREL INDUSTRY

The interesting features of the current Sri Lankan apparel

industry is that after the recessionary trends in 2008-09, many

factories were closed but the big ones like Brandix, MAS

Holdings, Timex, Star Garments etc have grown much

bigger Brandix have made rapid forward strides by setting up LEED-Platinum rated eco-friendly factories and through other sustainable green initiatives Though the capital outlay is higher with a 8-9 year pay back in the initial years, the savings from less energy and water consumption etc and the customer loyalty generated is worth the investment according to MD of BRANDIX The pay back period is now down to 2-3 years for such investments Mr Mahesh Amalean holds that joint ventures have been the main factor behind their success and the same provided ‘access to markets’, latest technologies, and most importantly contemporary nancial management system etc The leading industry spokesperson of Sri Lanka argue that

“Garment Without Guilt” has certainly helped Sri Lanka to counter adverse publicity in the past 2 decades Mr Mahesh Amalean has also entered into Indian market with ‘Amante’ brand for women’s lingerie and is expanding fast in the Indian market Similarly, the Timex group which has grown rapidly has seven retail outlets in India and Sri Lanka called “Avirate” a women’s wear brand focused on ‘today’s working women’ The fact that Sri Lankan exporters are looking at Indian market to promote Brands ‘Made in Sri Lanka’ while other production base also now include India, Bangladesh and even Vietnam and Cambodia etc Both skill and scope in apparel manufacturing are being successfully pursued by Sri Lankan exporters while attempting to make a presence in SAARC countries Indian exporters have shown grit and business acumen over the years but the kind of contemporary policies and practices of Sri Lankan exporters as well as their passion to develop own brands to promote in countries like India are a pointer towards the shape

of things to come Sustainable fashion and green factories have become an important focus for Sri Lanka They also have very pro-active labour policies and they do place the Operator as the key factor for the success giving them various benets Though Sri Lanka has less than 1.21% market share in the World apparel market having done under about US$ 4 billion, the modern face

of Sri Lankan apparel industry since it contributes 27% of their GDP, provides certain signicant lessons for Indian apparel industry to keep in mind while approaching the tipping point in their journey to achieve predominance among the Asian / ASEAN suppliers and in developing Global Competitiveness.About the Author : Dr, Darlie Koshy is a well known textile-apparel industry expert having led textile organizations for over a decade before joining as founding Head of Fashion Management Studies at NIFT in 1987 Dr Darlie Koshy is a rank holder in MBA and a PhD from IIT, Delhi Dr Koshy’s pioneering books Garment Exports : Winning Strategies (Prentice Hall 1997), Effective Export Marketing of Apparel to US, EU & Japan (Global Press 1995) and Indian Design Edge (Roli Books 2008) and numerous articles on the textile-apparel industries over the years have argued on the need for Indian Textile-Apparel Industries, to position itself as ‘Creative Apparel Manufacturer’ rather than imitating China to become a “Factory to the World”

Dr Darlie Koshy was the Director of National Institute of Design for 2 terms of ofce (2000-2008) before taking up the current assignment as DG & CEO of ATDC & IAM since October, 2008

Editorial NoteShri Harish Bijoor is a renowned Brand- expert and CEO of Harish Bijoor Consultants Incorporated He is more known as a pundit of

branding Many well-known corporate houses gure in the list of

his clients, which is a virtual who’s, who The three major

segments of the textile industry viz weaving, processing and

garmenting are dominated by the small-scale units Even in the

case of spinning sector, there are a few mills having a capacity of

one lakh spindles or more Since branding is an essential part of

modern marketing our representative pointedly asked the guru of

branding on feasibility of adoption of branding by the SME sector

The candid replies given by Shri Harish Bijoor should make the

decentralized sector seriously think about branding Here is the

response of the branding expert to the grueling questions of our

representative

Consulting Editor

TVC : Production and Marketing are two major aspects

of a manufacturing unit What role is played by branding in

capturing the market?

HB : While Production is back-ended, marketing and branding are

front-ended disciplines Needless to say each is important in its

own way

While Production is about standardization, quality, consistency

and more, marketing is about offering a front-face to what is

produced Marketing helps add zing to an otherwise boring

product even

Indian units that manufacture both bre and yarn and nished

products of every kind, are very good at the back-end and a bit

back-ended when it comes to the front-end of marketing and

branding This is the big gap to ll Manufacturing units need to

adopt and adapt to a totally new mindset on marketing Marketing

is no longer someone else’s core competence and someone

else’s business Marketing is as important a function of a

manufacturing unit as any This is the change in mindset that needs

to be cascaded into the industry of the manufacturing unit at large

Once there is a buy-in into this mindset, you will see the entire

industry morph from being a mere “maker” to an aggressive

‘marketer” as well Marketing is no rocket science It is not as alien

even Marketing is a lot of common sense bundled into a science,

art and philosophy that is called branding Except manufacturing

of man-made bres and spinning of yarn from bers whether

natural or man-made, all other segments of the industry are in the

decentralized sector Even all spinning mills cannot be considered

This investment is really an investment ahead of the curve ROI in marketing is a slow process If you are a unit entering this game, you need to be prepared to amortize your marketing spends over a 5-year period Delayed-gratication is the Branding and marketing norm, as opposed to Instant-gratication when it comes to the manufacturing process Manufacturing units that step into marketing need to be prepared to see light at the end of

a reasonably long and circuitous tunnel There sure is light at the end of the tunnel of marketing, but you may not be able to see it in those initial years But then, when you really see it, it might just well be worth your while It can be blinding in its intensity even!TVC : Is branding an expensive tool reserved for more afuent companies?

HB : Not at all Not in all cases Small units with modest ambitions can embark upon a marketing program for their produce I run several such programs in my company for the SME sector Marketing that has limited ambition from smaller units to achieve, can be done with smaller budgets and at times it is really not the money you spend Instead it is the creativity you use to spend a limited amount of money Marketing can be nifty and marketing can be no-money oriented as well

TVC : In an industry like textiles, where emphasis is primarily laid on up gradation of technology for which the industry gets

nancial support from Government, What should be the ideal budget of individual manufacturing unit for branding? and how Government should step in to give

nancial support ?

HB : Financial support from the government should be for two clear purposes The rst is for upgradation of the manufacturing process, which is funded forever The second is for marketing and branding The industry of textile and yarn is an export revenue earner Building an India brand in this space is a possibility

I support an “India-made” branding plan for the Indian Textile product at large One can seek funds from the India Brand Fund and one can indeed target for funds from the Ministry of Textiles at large I do believe what is needed is a plan The right ideas will get the right funding from the government I think there is no shortage

of money with the government for such programs There is instead a shortage of good ideas that seek funding

Let’s remember Government money and funding must never be seen as money that is given to the industry to buy sh Instead, this money is meant to be seen as money that is doled out to help you learn the skill, the art, the science and philosophy of shing

Thus far, government money has been used as a way and means

to subsidize the spend of individual units This subsidy mentality needs to go It is time to understand that life cannot be subsidized

forever If the money is used for skill-development, and the

money that is received is seen to be money that is helping

upgrade skills that lead to better marketing and better premium

realizations, so be it If not, this is money that is wasted

The industry needs to sit together, ideate and put a plan that is

completely market-centric to the market of consumption

rather than the market of production We have focused in India

for far too long on production Time to pull up our yarn and

think marketing and branding There is joy in this space There is

light in this space There are prots in this space None of these

are immediate If you are willing to wait, there is light If not,

there is just darkness all around

If you as an industry do not invest in brand-building for Indian

yarn and textile and the nished product, we will forever

complain of a new destination that is robbing us of prots and

margins for our produce Today it is Bangladesh and tomorrow

it may be Vietnam and day after tomorrow it may be

Timbuctoo!

TVC : Do you recommend a cooperative model for

branding in the case of manufacturing unit which are short

of funds Another strategy is that some agency of

Government like Textiles Committee can prescribe a

Quality Mark for fabrics What is sustainable a Quality Mark

or branding ?

HB : A co-operative effort is a good one to make This way,

there are more minds that contribute, more minds that think,

and more pockets that bleed in the short-term than a few

Apart from a quality-mark, there is a need to focus on building

image of the Indian offering There is a need to build pride in the

Indian offering One needs to re-establish the India-made mark!

In India, we have bandied around the “Made In India” language

for decades It has done precious little to our image “Made In

India” is often seen to be an inferior statement of macro-intent

that has failed Time to change all this

Look at Switzerland The phrase they use is “Swizz-made”!

“Made In India” means made in a political geography that is

India “Swizz-made” on the other hand means, made by the proud Swiss! “India-made” would therefore mean a different thing altogether than “Made In India”! Let’s think this out!

TVC : What is the potential of branding agencies in India ?

HB : Very good You need to pick one that believes in thinking out the process well and truly Branding is thought-leadership at play Pick an agency that specializes in this kind of leadership! I do believe we are one such!

TVC : What measures will you recommend for inclusion in the National Textile Policy 2013, to make branding an achievable goal, despite various constraints, faced by the textile industry

HB : Just a few inclusions

1 Invest in skill-building when it comes to marketing and branding Allocate a specic fund that can be spent only on skill-building in this arena

2 Invest in a “India-made” story as opposed to a “Made In India” story”!

3 Invest in the quality mindset of the Indian produce in this space and be totally, totally strict when it comes to penalties on default in terms of quality and delivery Every default is a negative stroke the industry can ill-afford to bear!

Harish Bijoor is a brand-expert & CEO, Harish Bijoor Consults Inc.,a private-label consulting practice that operates

in the realm of brand and business strategy The company has

a presence in the markets of India, Hong Kong, London, Dubai and Istanbul

Harish is a public speaker who speaks to Corporate audiences across the globe in the realm of motivation, people-management issues, brands, marketing and business at large

Producers of bers and intermediates for the textiles and clothing

industries are under increased pressures from increased price

competition Product differentiation via branding is one way for

producers to increase margins and prots The following reviews

the various branding options available to ber and intermediate

producers and the typical costs and rewards involved in

developing branding programs

A brand can be described as a marketing identity created for a

generic product in order to distinguish it from its competitors; in

other words, a means of differentiation A branded product should

have additional elements or added values over and above a

generic product

In the textiles and clothing sector branding can be applied at

various levels, most typically at the clothing level However, in the

last 20 years there has also been an increase in component

branding in textiles and clothing, which identies only part of the

nal product such as the ber, nish or fabric

With a clothing brand added value tends to take the form of a brand name which offers customer reassurance and has emotional appeal,

an image created through design, promotion and packaging and a design handwriting which marks the product out as unique However, with a component brand the perceived added value usually takes the form of functional features such as improved performance in use, quality or aesthetics Examples include:

• Stain resistance (e.g Stainmaster®)

• UV resistance

• Softness (e.g Tencel®)

• Stretch (e.g Lycra®)

• Moisture management (e.g Coolmax®)

• Waterproofness (e.g Gore-tex®)

• Quality (Harris Tweed, the original consumer branded fabric)Reference : Global bres & feedstock report, UK

TEXTILE BRANDING

A

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)

SOUTH GUJARAT UNIT

The South Gujarat Unit of The Textile Association (India) was established in the year 1967 and presently having more than 800 members The South Gujarat Unit had a very good experience of organizing successfully the 42nd All India Textile Conference in the year 1985

In Surat, there are over 8 lakh power looms producing over 30 million meters/day in 100 varieties of fabrics per day Also there are over

500 process houses established to meet with their requirements of local and export market About 1 lakh embroidery machines have been installed in Surat to help the fabric manufacturers in value addition Surat Textile industries are also entering into different segments

of technical textiles and garment manufacturing

Surat is having about 50,000 wholesalers of grey and nished fabrics and therefore it has become a very big fabric producing and marketing hub

According to the Technopak, Indian textile industry is expected to grow at an average annual rate of 11% between 2011 and 2020 to touch US$ 140 bn India's share of global textile exports is expected to increase from the current 4% to around 7% over the next three years Also, the denim manufacturing capacity, which stands at 600-650 m meters per annum, is expected to add another 100 m meters

in near future India is rich in traditional workers adept at value-adding tasks, which could give Indian companies signicant margin advantage

The conference will provide a platform to all those stakeholders who are willing to enter into the competitive global textile markets During the conference, we expect learned technocrats and experienced industrialists to share their valued experience and knowledge Foreign speakers like Mr David Faini, Managing Director of MarzoliSpA, Italy Dr Christian Schumacher and Indian speakers like Dr Kamat, Mr Arvind Sinha, Mr Sevalay, Mr Saini and others have agreed to address the conference

ORGANISES

11th International & 69th All India Textile Conference at Surat

20th- 21st December 2013

At The Taj Gateway Hotel, Athwalines, Surat.

Theme : Indian Textiles Global – Prospectus and Perceptions National and International speakers for their views on:-

• Present scenario of Textiles

• Technology in Aid of Modernisation,

• Advances in Textile Processes,

• Innovation in Textile Materials,

• Value Addition in Textiles,

• Developments and Modern Trend in Man-Made and Natural Fibers and many other interesting informative topics for textile industry

Please register your participation as delegate before 15th November 2013 as registration on rst come rst basis as there are limited seats available.

For further details, please visit the website: www.taisurat.org or email to info@taisurat.org or taisgusurat@gmail.com

Dr Sabita Baruah

Dept of Textile &

Apparel Design SNDT Women's University

Mrs Mamta Mandke

University Dept of Textile Science

& Apparel DesignSNDT Women's University

It has now become fashionable for the textile industry in India to be concerned about environmental issues and pollution In the new millennium, voicing a deep concern for the environment can dramatically enhance a company's brand image in the urban market The textile industry is therefore directing its wrath against toxic chemicals used in various manufacturing processes In this context, natural dyeing now seems to offer some advantages worth examining These dyes also support the core concept of organic processes that fundamentally converge on the idea of eliminating the impact of harmful chemicals It has been known widely in industry circles that the growth of microbes cause cross infection by pathogens and development of unpleasant odours where the fabric is worn next to skin

In addition, the staining of fabrics and the loss of the performance properties of textile substrates are often the result of microbial attack With a view to protect the wearer and the textile substrate itself, antimicrobial nish is often applied to textile materials In the present study, an attempt was made to dye cotton and silk using natural dye and natural mordants which exhibit the property of reducing or inhibiting bacterial attack An experimental study was conducted to dye 100% cotton and pure silk with natural dyes Pomegranate rind and Gall Nut dye were utilized along with natural mordants such as Amla and Black Currants Further, the natural mordant samples were compared with traditional mordants based on the physical, chemical and antibacterial characteristic of the fabric performed Finally, the results obtained from the study established that these natural mordant and natural dyes have antibacterial properties without signicantly inuencing the fabric characteristic

Key words: Natural dyes, natural mordants , antibacterial properties

EFFECT OF NATURAL DYES ON PHYSICO-CHEMICAL AND ANTIMICROBIAL

PROPERTIES OF COTTON AND SILK

1 Introduction

In industrial applications where environmental consciousness

seems to be growing steadily, natural colorants can provide

several benets to the textile industry in terms of safety and health

Natural dyes typically include dyes or colorants derived from

plants, minerals, and invertebrates The majority of natural dyes

are vegetable dyes They are usually derived from plant sources

such as roots, berries, bark, leaves, and wood Some dyes are

also derived from organic sources such as fungi and lichens

Although a lot of work has been done on

the application of natural dyes on textile fabric, in most cases metallic mordants are used which are environmentally objectionable[1].A mordant is an element which aids the chemical reaction that takes place between the dye and the

ber so that the dye is absorbed In addition to the coloring agents of dyes, mordants are often added to keep dyes from fading They are also sometimes added to brighten, deepen,

or dull a specic color Depending on the particular recipe, and

on the desired effect, mordants can be used before, during, or after the dye bath [2]

The inherent properties of the textile bers provide room for

the growth of micro organisms Furthermore, the structure of

the substrates and the chemical processes may also induce the

growth of microbes Humidity and warm environments may

also aggravate the problem Infestation by microbes cause

cross infection by pathogens This could result in unpleasant

odours where the fabric is worn next to the skin In addition,

the staining and loss of the performance properties of textile

substrates are the results of microbial attack With a view to

protect the wearer and the textile substrate itself, antimicrobial

nish can be applied to textile materials [3,4,5]

Keeping in mind environmental and health factors, the present

study aims to examine the application of naturally available dyes

which also possess antimicrobial properties The dyes used

include pomegranate rind and gall nut dyes using different

mordants on 100% cotton, and pure silk The primary reason

for selecting the above dyes was to establish the fact that these

natural extracts possessed antimicrobial properties which

reduce growth of microbes The natural mordants used for this

study were Indian Gooseberries (which are commonly known

as Amla), and Black Currants Conventional mordants such as

alum and copper sulphate were also used for the purpose of

comparison with natural mordants

2 Materials & Methods

2.1.1 Fabric used

For this study Cotton 100% and pure silk fabrics were selected

for the study The cotton fabric was procured from the local

market, and pure silk was obtained from Khadi Bhandar,

Mumbai

2.1.2 Natural and Chemical mordants used

Indian Gooseberries, commonly known as amla-20% and

black current-10%

Alum-1% and Copper sulphate-2%

2.1.3 Natural dyes used

Punica granatum – Pomegranate rind Quercus infectoria – Gall

nuts/Downy oaks

Both dye extracts were obtained from Sir Natural's Biotech

Pvt Ltd, Kanpur, India

.2 Methods

2.2.1 Pretreatment and dyeing

Cotton fabric was washed in a solution containing 2g/L

commercial (Tide) detergent at 50˚C for 20 min, keeping the

material ratio1:40 The scoured cotton fabric was thoroughly

washed with tap water and dried in room temperature [6] The

silk fabric was soaked in warm water and left overnight then

dried in room temperature

2.2.2 Pre-mordanting

Cotton and silk samples were mordanted with natural mordant

Amla (20%) and Black currant (10%) on weight the fabric

Material to liquor ratio was 1:20 Fabric samples were treated

at 80˚C for 30 min, and then dried at room temperature The

same procedure was followed for both the fabrics mordanted

with chemical mordants i.e Copper sulphate (2%) and Alum (1%)

2.2.3 Dyeing Mordanted cotton and silk samples were dyed with natural dyes

i.e Punica granatum (10%) and Quercus infectoria (10%) on

weight of the fabric The material to liquor ratio used was 1:20.The fabric samples were treated at 80˚C for 30 min and rinsed with cold water

2.2.4 Soaping Treatment

The rinsed samples were given soaping treatment by using ionic soap at 60˚C for 20 min in Rota dyer Then the samples were washed with tap water and dried at room temperature

non-Table.1.

Dyed samples using chemical and natural mordant

2.2.5 Evaluation of Physico-chemical propertiesThe treated samples were further tested for colour fastness to rubbing as per IS: 766-1956 standard method and wash fastness following IS: 3316-1979 standard method The water absorbency of treated and untreated fabrics was evaluated by IS: 390-1975 water spray test method

2.2.6 Evaluation of Antimicrobial properties

To evaluate the antibacterial properties of treated fabric sample, two test organisms were selected i.e Staphylococcus aureus a gram positive and Escherichia coli a gram negative microorganism The standard qualitative test AATCC 147-2004

Fabric Sample

Chemical Mordant

Natural dye (10%)

Dyed Sample

infectoria

Black currant (10%)

Quercus infectoria

Amla (20%)

Punica granatum rindCopper

sulphate (2%)

Punica granatum rind

sulphate (2%)

Quercus infectoria

Amla (20%)

Quercus infectoria

Black currant (10%)

Punica granatum rind

granatum rind