Nấu ăn ngon, công thức món ăn ngon, món ngon....
Trang 1NOVEMBER | DECEMBER l 2013 | Issue 17-06 | FREE | eatmagazine.ca
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Smart Local Delicious.
RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | FOOD | TRAVEL
holiday issue
Trang 22 EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013
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Cover photography by Michael Tourigny
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Founder and Editor in Chief Gary Hynes
Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman
Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg DRINK Editor Treve Ring Senior Wine Writer Larry Arnold Okanagan/Whistler Contributing Editor Claire Sear Art Director Gary Hynes Advertising Sales: 250-384-9042 Food Reporters Tofino | Ucluelet: Jen Dart, Vancouver: Anya Levykh, Okanagan-Whistler: Claire Sear, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet | Cowichan Valley-Up Island: Kirsten Tyler Web Reporters Van Doren Chan, Colin Hynes, Jeannette Montgomery, Courtney Schwegel, Morgan K Sterns, Jay Whiteley Contributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Colin Hynes, Anya Levykh, Sherri Martin, Elizabeth Monk, Michaela Morris, Simon Nattrass, Elizabeth Nyland, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Dona Sturmanis, Adem Tepedelen, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman. Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark. Advertising: 250.384.9042, editor@eatmagazine.ca Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4 Tel: 250.384.9042 Email: editor@eatmagazine.ca Website: eatmagazine.ca Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur All opinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement All rights reserved. away just a click Customer Care 1.800.667.8280 • thriftyfoods.com Perfect for any occasion, Thrifty Foods in-store party platter specialists offer you an incredible selection of delectable deli, bakery, seafood and sushi platters for pick up or delivery View our selection of delicious entertaining options at thriftyfoods.com Try our online Reserve & Pickup Service for party platters and gift baskets You can place your order online, select your pickup time and you’re all set! Order by phone at: 1.800.667.8280 Please note that for online orders we require 48 hours notice and 24 hours notice for phone orders for our platters & trays thriftyfoods.com/pickup Entertaining? We can help. r e s e r v e p i c k u p www.eatmagazine.ca Sign-up for our Tapas newsletter Smart Local Delicious Articles Concierge Desk 05
Food Matters 07
Good For You 08
Epicure At Large 09
Foraging 10
Get Fresh 13
Reporter 14
Victoria Public Market 20 Tasted 23
Eating Well For Less 24
Local Kitchen 26
Giving 29
Appetizer Party 30
VINcabulary 36
Liquid Assets 37
Wine + Terroir 38
Wine & Food Pairing 40
Beer & a Bite 42
News from around BC 43 What the Pros Know 46
left:
At Farmer’s Apprentice chef David Gunawan’s food shows off the purity
of good ingredients
Pg.18
Trang 4For me, the holidays started in September It always seems a bitbizarre to be putting together the Christmas issue at the start ofthe fall season, when the leaves are just beginning to turn and thedays are still sunny and warm The last thing I’m thinking about
is shortbread cookies with snowflake icing sugar decoration (see
pg 26) But it’s never too early to start planning for all the gifts
to buy and foods to be prepared
For me, the best thing about the holiday season is the treats—
the hand-crafted chocolates that seem to appear after each meal,the home-made squares my mom sends from Montreal (which Ifreeze until needed), the dips and slathers I make for noshing,and seeing old friends for a glass of champagne and a bite at a local bar
I enjoy browsing book stores and websites for new cookbooks, ordering the farm-raised
turkey from a local butcher, and stocking up my liquor cabinet with exotic bourbons, a
smoky single malt, fino, and sumptuous red wines (I’m into Mourvèdre, Grenache,
Cinsault, and Syrah this year) Planning the New Year’s Eve dinner feast is, for me, a bigevent While Christmas dinner is all about tradition, New Year’s Eve is about lettingloose
I like to try my hand at making a few of the memorable dishes I had throughout theyear This year’s end, you’ll find me in the kitchen, a glass of bubble nearby, in prepmode I want to try making the Roasted Veal Sweetbreads, Almond Butter, Walla WallaOnion, and Sherry Gastrique dish from Wildebeest in Vancouver; the Salt-Crusted
“Wrinkly” Potatoes with Salsa Mojos I enjoyed at Coqueta in San Francisco; and theWood-Grilled Levain Toast with Warm Chicken Livers, Raisins, and Marsala I had at AvaGene’s in Portland during Feast Portland
A salute to the year that was, the New Year to come, and all the good things to eat anddrink we’ll be having in the year ahead
From all the staff at EAT magazine, we wish you Happy Holidays and a very fine New
Year —Gary Hynes, Editor
Getting Ready For The Holidays
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NovemberThe WEST COAST CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL (COQUITLAM)
Ongoing until Nov 10 No ordinary chocolate event, this festival inspires, informs, surprises,entertains and above all, celebrates chocolate Events can be savoured individually, orexperienced successively for the ultimate chocolate experience Featuring over one hundredindividual events over a three-week period, the Festival offers the opportunity to experience
the luxury of chocolate (www.chocolatefestival.ca)
EAST KOOTENAY WINE FESTIVAL (COLUMBIA VALLEY)
The 12th Annual East Kootenay Wine Festival at Fairmont Hot Springs Resort takes placeSaturday, November 2nd Visit the website for more information
(www.fairmonthotsprings.com)
2013 GOLD MEDAL PLATES CULINARY COMPETITION (VICTORIA)
Victoria is proud to officially announce the arrival of Gold Medal Plates to the capital city.Vancouver previously hosted the coveted event, but this year in a stunning coup, Victoriawon the rights for the next three years The event will be held this year on Nov 7 at theVictoria Conference Centre This celebration of Canadian Excellence in food, wine,entertainment and athletics is held in 11 Canadian cities and has raised over $7.4 million
to date for Canada's Olympic athletes Tickets are available now (www.goldmedalplates.com)
BOOTS N’ SUITS: A MASON STREET FARM-RAISER (VICTORIA)
Join the Island Chefs Collaborative and Mason Street City Farm on Nov 9 for an table evening of food, drink, music, and dancing Some of Victoria's finest chefs will bepreparing a five-course feast, with pairings of local wine, beer or cider Participating chefsinclude Peter Zambri (Zambri's), Jamie Cummins and David Johnstone (Relish), JonathonPulker (The Refiner Diner) and cocktails by Solomon Siegel (Catalano Cicchetti Bar).Tickets are $85, with proceeds going to the Mason Street Farm
unforget-(http://bootsnsuits.eventbrite.com)
CORNUCOPIA (WHISTLER)
Celebrate the good things in life at Whistler's annual wine and food extravaganza, Nov
7-17, featuring gala wine tastings, seminars with industry professionals, renowned parties and much more Cornucopia offers something for both the experienced gourmetand those seeking to appreciate the epicurean delights of wine and food A full schedule of
after-events will be released on the website in October 2013 (www.whistlercornucopia.com)
OTTAVIO’S SWISS WEEK (OAK BAY)
Celebrate Swiss Week at Ottavio’s Nov 6-10 There will be Swiss cheese samplings all weekand discounts on all their Swiss cheeses for the week Now is the season when the highalpine cheeses really shine, built on the fresh grasses & herbs in the spring & summer fields.Also, perhaps the best grilled cheese ever served for the week in the cafe with housemade
ketchup (www.ottaviovictoria.com)
WINEMAKERS DINNER (SAANICH)
Muse Winery’s Annual Winemakers Dinner with Deep Cove Chalet Restaurant will take
place Nov 16 More details to follow on their website (www.musewinery.ca) Reserve by
contacting Muse Winery 250-656-2552
CLAYOQUOT OYSTER FESTIVAL (TOFINO)
The Clayoquot Oyster Festival is a memorable celebration of one of the ocean's mostcoveted culinary delights, the oyster As a region, Clayoquot Sound is a great cultivator andconsumer of this special bivalve, annually growing over 50,000 gallons of oysters a year andover the festival weekend slurping back over 8,000 From Nov 15-16, the community ofTofino in beautiful Clayoquot Sound will go to great lengths to honour the humble oyster
(www.oystergala.com)
WINTERBRAU (VICTORIA
A seasonal beer tasting and food sampling, featuring beers from 15 local breweries and asampling of treats from ou the Canoe Brewpub kitchen 1pm to 5pm Tickets available at
Canoe, Cascadia Quadra, or canoebrewpub.com
OCEAN WISE CHOWDER CHOWDOWN 2013 (VANCOUVER)
Join Canada’s growing sustainable seafood movement as 12 of Vancouver’s top chefs gohead-to-head for the title of 2013 Ocean Wise Chowder Chowdown Champion on Nov 20
at the Vancouver Aquarium Taste delectable, original, ocean-friendly seafood chowderspaired with craft beer, and vote for your favourite, all in support of sustainable seafood
(www.vanaqua.org/chowdown)
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Trang 55 www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013
November
The WEST COAST CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL (COQUITLAM)
Ongoing until Nov 10 No ordinary chocolate event, this festival inspires, informs, surprises,
entertains and above all, celebrates chocolate Events can be savoured individually, or
experienced successively for the ultimate chocolate experience Featuring over one hundred
individual events over a three-week period, the Festival offers the opportunity to experience
the luxury of chocolate (www.chocolatefestival.ca)
EAST KOOTENAY WINE FESTIVAL (COLUMBIA VALLEY)
The 12th Annual East Kootenay Wine Festival at Fairmont Hot Springs Resort takes place
Saturday, November 2nd Visit the website for more information
(www.fairmonthotsprings.com)
2013 GOLD MEDAL PLATES CULINARY COMPETITION (VICTORIA)
Victoria is proud to officially announce the arrival of Gold Medal Plates to the capital city
Vancouver previously hosted the coveted event, but this year in a stunning coup, Victoria
won the rights for the next three years The event will be held this year on Nov 7 at the
Victoria Conference Centre This celebration of Canadian Excellence in food, wine,
entertainment and athletics is held in 11 Canadian cities and has raised over $7.4 million
to date for Canada's Olympic athletes Tickets are available now (www.goldmedalplates.com)
BOOTS N’ SUITS: A MASON STREET FARM-RAISER (VICTORIA)
Join the Island Chefs Collaborative and Mason Street City Farm on Nov 9 for an
unforget-table evening of food, drink, music, and dancing Some of Victoria's finest chefs will be
preparing a five-course feast, with pairings of local wine, beer or cider Participating chefs
include Peter Zambri (Zambri's), Jamie Cummins and David Johnstone (Relish), Jonathon
Pulker (The Refiner Diner) and cocktails by Solomon Siegel (Catalano Cicchetti Bar)
Tickets are $85, with proceeds going to the Mason Street Farm
(http://bootsnsuits.eventbrite.com)
CORNUCOPIA (WHISTLER)
Celebrate the good things in life at Whistler's annual wine and food extravaganza, Nov
7-17, featuring gala wine tastings, seminars with industry professionals, renowned
after-parties and much more Cornucopia offers something for both the experienced gourmet
and those seeking to appreciate the epicurean delights of wine and food A full schedule of
events will be released on the website in October 2013 (www.whistlercornucopia.com)
OTTAVIO’S SWISS WEEK (OAK BAY)
Celebrate Swiss Week at Ottavio’s Nov 6-10 There will be Swiss cheese samplings all week
and discounts on all their Swiss cheeses for the week Now is the season when the high
alpine cheeses really shine, built on the fresh grasses & herbs in the spring & summer fields
Also, perhaps the best grilled cheese ever served for the week in the cafe with housemade
ketchup (www.ottaviovictoria.com)
WINEMAKERS DINNER (SAANICH)
Muse Winery’s Annual Winemakers Dinner with Deep Cove Chalet Restaurant will take
place Nov 16 More details to follow on their website (www.musewinery.ca) Reserve by
contacting Muse Winery 250-656-2552
CLAYOQUOT OYSTER FESTIVAL (TOFINO)
The Clayoquot Oyster Festival is a memorable celebration of one of the ocean's most
coveted culinary delights, the oyster As a region, Clayoquot Sound is a great cultivator and
consumer of this special bivalve, annually growing over 50,000 gallons of oysters a year and
over the festival weekend slurping back over 8,000 From Nov 15-16, the community of
Tofino in beautiful Clayoquot Sound will go to great lengths to honour the humble oyster
(www.oystergala.com)
WINTERBRAU (VICTORIA
A seasonal beer tasting and food sampling, featuring beers from 15 local breweries and a
sampling of treats from ou the Canoe Brewpub kitchen 1pm to 5pm Tickets available at
Canoe, Cascadia Quadra, or canoebrewpub.com
OCEAN WISE CHOWDER CHOWDOWN 2013 (VANCOUVER)
Join Canada’s growing sustainable seafood movement as 12 of Vancouver’s top chefs go
head-to-head for the title of 2013 Ocean Wise Chowder Chowdown Champion on Nov 20
at the Vancouver Aquarium Taste delectable, original, ocean-friendly seafood chowders
paired with craft beer, and vote for your favourite, all in support of sustainable seafood
Trang 6This Nov 22-24, discover hundreds of exhibitors, products, and new holiday gift ideasnot found in malls For a different experience, complete your shopping in one swoopand take a break with a cheese seminar or festival cooking and baking presentations byFood Network Canada's Anna Olson at the West Coast Christmas Show
(www.westcoastchristmasshow.com)
DecemberFRESH AND HEALTHY HOLIDAY COOKING CLASS (VICTORIA)
The holidays can be a heavy time for our bodies Prevention of this is the motivationbehind this class on Dec 4 at Cook Culture Chef Michael Williams (Shaw TV’s “IslandChef”) will focus on some nutritious snacks, sides and entrées that offer a lighteralternative to the usual holiday heavy After this lesson you will have a repertoire thatyou can use not only use for Christmas dinner, but also as a go-to for many of the win-
ter months (www.cookculture.com)
GIFTS FROM THE CHRISTMAS KITCHEN (VICTORIA)
Give the gift of delicious homemade goodies in this make-it and take-it class at theLondon Chef Make a festive spiced pear and cranberry chutney, a layered chocolatechunk cookie mix complete with baking instructions, and irresistible cinnamon andhoney candied nuts Then gather around the table to decorate your goodies with aselection of holiday ribbons and other festive craft supplies Class costs $95 and is
offered December 8 or 15 (www.thelondonchef.com)
January WINTER OKANAGAN WINE FESTIVAL
From January 11 to 18, 2014, Sun Peaks Resort and the Okanagan Wine FestivalsSociety offer those who love wine and winter recreation the most novel of winefestivals Set amidst the charming pedestrian village, the annual Winter OkanaganWine Festival is a unique marriage of culinary events, wine tastings, educationalseminars, and outdoor recreation showcasing the famous wine varietals of BC's
Okanagan Wine Country (www.thewinefestivals.com)
THE EIGHTH ANNUAL OREGON TRUFFLE FESTIVAL
The 7th Annual Oregon Truffle Festival will be held in and around Eugene, Oregonover three brisk winter days from January 24-26, 2013 Created to celebrate the mag-nificent Oregon truffles as they reach the peak of ripeness in their native soil, it is thefirst festival of its kind in North America, dedicated to sharing the experience of thechefs, foragers and fans of Oregon's wild truffles, from their hidden source in the for-est to their glory on the table (www.oregontrufflefestival.com)
HEY BARTENDER & VIP AFTERPARTY
EAT Magazine and Smart Events present Hey Bartender, a film about two bartenders
trying to achieve their dreams through bartending Date and details to be annoucced
in the next EAT or watch our facebook page (www.facebook.com/EATmagazine)
FebruaryGLUTEN-FREE HEALTH AND WELLNESS FESTIVAL (VICTORIA)
Events include the Dinner with Dr William Davis, author of The Wheat Belly at thenew Be Love restaurant on Feb 21 Feb 22, the full-day event will be hosted at theVictoria Conference Center Vendors will share great food, beverages and cosmetics tosample and buy as well as educate and create community awareness around gluten
Everything is taken care of in advance so all you need
to do is arrive and enjoy an amazing dinner in our beautiful room with expert service
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EAT Online
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The current issue
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on the cover at www.eatmagazine.ca
Trang 7www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013 7
One Pot Wonders
There is soup, and then there is Soup When winter sets in, I want Soup spelled
with a capital and a double “S”—a soup-stew that sticks to the ribs and sustains me
through weeks that are short on daylight and long on rain I don’t want my soup from
Tetra Pak or tin either It needs to be made from scratch, simmered slowly with warm
aromas that waft about the house
A few of my favourite soups have made the pages of Food Matters, such as beet
borscht, fish and corn chowder and French onion soup—that lovely meld of
slow-cooked onions collapsing sweetly into a beefy broth I’ll wager I’ve mentioned
but-ternut squash and tomato soups too I depend on these cozy classics for winter comfort
whether at home, or in a bistro or diner on a blustery day
But a clutch of one-pot wonders seldom make the fresh sheet (or today’s cookbooks.)
Anglo-Indian mulligatawny, Scotch broth and Portuguese caldo verde get short shrift
And rarely do I see those Italian cousins minestrone and ribbolita offered either
Of the lot, my favourite is mulligatawny Meaning “pepper water,” its roots may be
Indian, but its upbringing is purely British colonial My take is a concoction of chicken
stock and meat from a boiler hen, toasted and ground spices (fenugreek, fennel,
co-riander and cumin seeds ), carrots, onions, turmeric, celery and apple bulked up with
lentils or just cream Several recipes call for lamb and use rice or potatoes as
thicken-ers Many omit the apple, which is a shame The sharp fruit-and-spice note for me
de-fines the dish Sheila Lukins’s fine recipe from All Around the World (Workman
Publishing, 1992) includes apples and can be found on www.eatyourbooks.com
Traditional Scotch broth relies on lamb shoulder, its stock and pearl barley I like to
buy lamb neck when possible and cool and defat the stock before continuing to make
the soup Cabbage, turnips and carrots offer a good earthy note You can make Scotch
broth with beef short ribs but better to substitute chicken for the lamb and leeks for
cabbage for another Scottish mainstay, cock-a-leekie Whichever you choose,
accom-pany with a wedge of English cheddar, a slab of grainy bread and a mug of ale
Caldo verde honours today’s darling super-green—kale—sliced wafer-thin, buttery,
lightly mashed potatoes and a simple stock It has become my go-to winter soup Made
with chili-flecked chorizo, caldo verde is at home with the meat lover If not using
sausage, plop a good handful of chickpeas into the pot along with a dash of smoked
paprika, which will give it a little of the same smoky notes of the sausage Although
very tasty the next day, this is one soup I like fresh from the pot when the greens are
still vibrant and the sausage (or chickpeas) tender-firm The potatoes subside softly
into the broth
I respect Tuscan ribbolita (meaning reboiled) for its insistence on crusty bread and
soupy rich tomatoes But I love minestrone’s versatility to run with the seasons You
can add peas and leeks in the spring In summer, it is wonderful made with lots of
zucchini, fresh ripe tomatoes and dolloped with a dash of pesto In winter, bring on
the chard or kale—this time cavolo nero and noodles and beans for a sort of pasta
fa-giole The addition of a Parmesan rind during cooking adds a further depth of flavour
Toss and simply dress a salad, fetch a bottle of Chianti, and the table is set
These luscious, soul-satisfying soups rely mostly on one knife, one wooden spoon,
one pot, one ladle and a whole lot of goodness They are humble in ingredients, but
luxurious in flavour They are inexpensive to prepare And they hardly require exact
science What could be more settling on a winter’s night than a loaf of bread, a jug
of wine—and hearty homemade soup?
FOOD MATTERS By Julie Pegg
WINTER SURVIVAL RELIES ON THE NUMBER ONE
COMFORT FOOD
VICTORIA HOSPITALITY AWARDS
Have you recently received exceptional service? Do you consistently see an employee provide
exceptional service to their customers? Please take a moment to fill out the online nomination form and
recognize these outstanding individuals Congratulations to Dillon Carfoot of the Fairmont Empress
Hotel , the August winner To nominate someone visit victoriahospitalityawards.com/nominate
E
Trang 88 EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013
Dining Out For Diabetes
A FEW SIMPLE GUIDELINES CAN MAKE HOLIDAY
SERIOUS CONDITION.
November ushers in a festive season replete with occasions for dining out in
restaurants and noshing at holiday parties It is also Diabetes Awareness Month inCanada, and for the nine million Canadians who suffer from diabetes (this includespre-diabetes and types 1 and 2), these celebratory meals away from home can beproblematic As Penny Murray, branch coordinator for the Canadian DiabetesAssociation notes, “choosing healthy options from restaurant menus or Christmasparty fare is tricky enough for most of us, but for people with diabetes, who mustrigorously monitor their weight and blood sugar levels, the task can be daunting.”Thankfully, there’s good news By following the suggestions below, diabetics can turndining out into the worry-free, enjoyable experience it should be—for everyone!
If you take medication at regular intervals and have “established” meal times,schedule your reservations so you’ll be dining at your usual hour—not waiting end-lessly for the food to arrive When a late meal is unavoidable, bring along a healthysnack to stabilize your blood sugar and help prevent overeating at the main event.Your best options include a Vitamin C-rich fruit, a handful of almonds or a high-fibre/low-sugar snack bar
People with diabetes have a greater risk for developing heart disease than peoplewithout the condition—so it’s crucial they limit their intake of both trans andsaturated fats That means avoiding anything on the menu described as creamy,cheesy, au gratin, battered, breaded, crispy, fried, sautéed or buttery Choose restaurantswith a reputation for preparing “local, seasonal” foods They are apt to utilize health-ier cooking techniques and serve smaller portions with plenty of vegetable and wholegrain options
Ask for sauces, gravies and dressings to be served “on the side,” and follow through
by taking a “light-dipping” approach rather than a “dunk and drown” one! When itcomes to salad dressing, the wisest choice is olive-oil- based vinaigrettes Studies haveshown olive oil, and other foods high in mono-unsaturated fats—like almonds andavocados—can help reverse insulin resistance, stabilize blood sugar and lower triglyc-eride and LDL cholesterol levels—all critical factors in the management of diabetes.When dipping into the breadbasket, opt for coarse whole-grain breads and foregobreads and buns made from refined white flour as they can have a deleterious effect
on blood sugar levels The one exception to this rule is white sourdough bread, which
is digested slowly and will not wreak havoc with blood glucose
Make vinegar a regular dining companion! Vinegar is a diabetic- friendlycondiment—a mere tablespoon added to a salad or other food during a meal can lowerpost-prandial blood sugar by as much as 30 percent So if you just can’t resist thatfluffy white bun, keep the vinegar bottle handy!
Go fish When it comes to entrees, fish is a super choice Recent research shows thatthe omega-3 fats in fish are not only cardio-protective, they also help the body processinsulin properly To optimize these health benefits, have your fish grilled, poached orbaked—not fried When you do order red meat, choose wild game or cuts with theterm “loin” in them (sirloin, tenderloin, strip loin) These will be the leanest options
In addition, always ask for skinless poultry or, alternatively, remove the skin yourselfwhen your meal arrives
Opt for fruit-based desserts or “share” a dessert with a dinner companion Half ofsomething truly delicious is usually all that is required to satisfy a sweet tooth Keep
in mind though that excess sugar causes the body to excrete chromium, an importantmineral involved in blood sugar regulation and other endocrine functions
Bypass the Irish coffee and other liquid “desserts-in-disguise” and savour a glass offine red wine instead If you are a teetotaller, consider sipping a glass of lemon waterthroughout your meal—lemon juice, like vinegar, is a powerful blood sugar stabilizer
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Trang 99 www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013
OLDEST AND HEALTHIEST PLANTS ON THE PLANET.
Almost three decades ago, when Canadians were discovering global flavours and
food editors competed to pounce on the latest trend (real or imagined), coriander had
its day as the exotic siren of the global village kitchen
In a Delhi eatery, over fat shrimps in a gravy roaring with spices, I told my friend
Jiggs Kalra, author, restaurateur and shrewd observer of Indian gastro culture, about
this “It’s wildly trendy,” I said “Food writers in Canada are calling it the taste of the
decade.”
Jiggs glared at me, then tossed his head back with a whoop of laughter “Trendy?”
he gasped, clinging to the table “Coriander’s been trendy in Indian cooking for 5,000
years.”
“According to our ancient Hindu system of Ayurvedic medicine,” he continued, “it
has a load of therapeutic properties, including the prevention of constipation Today
we don’t worry too much about that We cherish coriander for the lustre it brings to
every dish, which is pretty much the lot.”
Native to the eastern Mediterranean and Middle East, coriander is both a herb (stems
and leaves) and a spice (the seeds) It ranks as one of the oldest and healthiest plants
on the planet The ancient Greeks, Egyptians and Chinese managed to detect
aphro-disiac properties in its seed A slew of cultures have designated it anti-inflammatory,
anti-diabetic, anti-bacterial and anti-cholesterol, not to mention anti-boredom
Also known as cilantro (the Spanish word) and Chinese parsley, it offers up a wholly
unique flavour, a love-it-or-hate-it proposition (I know Canadians who can’t stand it)
It melds the sensations of citrus, mint, a hint of green vegetables and, at the finish,
pepper “Some Westerners describe it as fetid,” Jiggs told me “But we in the East think
it is flowery.”
It’s been around, even meriting a mention in the Bible (Book of Exodus) It turns up
in 17th-century France as an ingredient in cologne It’s a staple in falafel in the
Mid-dle East Indian traders likely introduced it to Thailand I’ve seen Thais walking down
the streets of Bangkok and Chiang Mai munching fresh coriander leaves by the
hand-ful
When I was a kid several centuries ago, coriander seed was the mysterious heart of
the candy called black balls
With the freewheeling cross-pollination of Eastern and Western cuisines and the
ad-vent of fusion, coriander emerged as an international star The Champenoises of France
jettisoned dill and began marinating salmon in coriander In Italy, it found its way
into the feathery pasta sauces of cucina nuovo California went wild with it Who
didn`t?
A certain confusion arose with “Vietnamese coriander,” really the herb polygonum
or rau ram Although used almost entirely in Southeast Asia, it originated in the
Caribbean, not Vietnam Nobody seems to agree on what rau ram actually tastes like
Sampling it for the first time on Malaysia’s Islamic east coast, I found it so weirdly
soapy, I asked servers to scold their dishwashers Since then, I’ve learned to appreciate
the soapy-peppery herb It’s easily found in Vancouver’s Vietnamese supermarkets We
grow it in our Saanich garden
West Coast chefs use coriander every which way: it’s omnipresent in the addictively
spicy gravies of local Indian restaurants Sizzling Tandoor and India Bistro
Chain-restaurant Earls uses it to marinate the game fish wahoo for its fish tacos Chef and EAT
contributor Heidi Fink treasures it not for its leaves, but for its root, a powerhouse
component in pastes, marinades and dipping sauces
Think of coriander as green sunshine: it does much to exorcize the blah of Victoria’s
winter My wife, the serious cook in the house, plays ingeniously She tosses local
mus-sels with squid ink linguine and coriander sauce The tomato-coriander coulis she does
for roast lamb tenderloin utilizes coriander seed, leaves, stems and sprigs; it’s a dream
Her lime-ginger-coriander ice clears the palate most elegantly
No wonder, when she says I married her for her cooking, I blush, and mightily
The Uncommon Herb
EPICURE AT LARGE By Jeremy Ferguson
Sun- Thurs 11:00am - 11:00pm Fri- Sat 11:00 am - midnight
BRITISH FARE CRAFT BEER LOCALLY SOURCED
1250 Wharf Street, Victoria, BC Call 250.385.3474 Drop in
theguildfreehouse.com info@theguildfreehouse.com
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Trang 10Winter is coming, and while I relish the thought of
warm fires, spiced beers and hearty foods, even the most
comforting of winter meals starts to lose its charm after
that first month without garden-fresh greens Thankfully,
there’s an easy way to liven up any winter dish: just add
a handful of tangy, crunchy sauerkraut from your very
own fermentation crock
Author Sandor Ellix Katz is directly responsible for my
own love affair with kraut, and his seminal book Wild
Fermentation is a perfect starting point for any experiment
with home fermentation Starting with the basics (five
pounds of cabbage and 3 tablespoons of salt), Katz
encourages the addition of just about anything from other
vegetables to fruits, roots and spices
For your first batch, however, you might want to keep
things simple Starting with a non-reactive container—I
use a ceramic crock, but a clean plastic bucket works just
as well—chop your cabbage as fine or as coarse as you like,
sprinkling it periodically with salt (I use kosher salt)
While the basic recipe needs no more than these two
in-gredients, I often include a pinch of mustard powder,
black pepper, dill and sometimes juniper to add a bit of
complexity to my finished kraut
After your cabbage is chopped and evenly salted, pack
it firmly into the crock and place a clean, snugly fitting
cover—I use a plate—on top and weigh it down with a
clean weight such as a water-filled jug Cover the whole
thing with a cloth to prevent dust from getting in Press
down on the weight every hour or so After a while, the
salt should have drawn enough water out of the cabbage
to cover the plate in a few centimetres of brine If after 24
hours your kraut-to-be isn’t completely submerged, just
add some lightly salted water After a week, taste your
IT’S EASIER THAN YOU THINK CABBAGE + SALT + FRIENDLY BACTERIA = SAUERKRAUT
For a BC retailer close to you, refer to
starts with Artisan Edibles’ Antipasto
For a BC retailer close to you, refer to
TISAN EDIBLES
facebook.com/ArtisanEdibles
AR
facebook.com/ArtisanEdibles contact@artisanedibles.com contact@artisanedibles.com
TISAN EDIBLES
facebook.com/ArtisanEdibles contact@artisanedibles.com
left : Chef Kerry Park from Tre Fantastico.
right : Tangy kraut with broiled sardine filets, hearty kale and bacon lardons
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kraut If it’s not sour enough for you, just try again in a day or two In the cool
winter months, a batch of kraut will keep improving for months, or you can move it
to a jar in the fridge when it reaches that perfect flavour
At this point, you’re probably thinking, “Great But what am I going to do with five
pounds of sauerkraut?” For this, we can turn to the classic Alsatian choucroute garnie,
consisting of potatoes, cured meats and fresh sauerkraut spiced then baked in white
wine and confit Like any traditional dish, choucroute garnie varies widely between
regions and even families, so just explore until you find the right recipe and add your
own finishing touches
Local chef Kerry Park from Tre Fantastico gives us his own take on the classic For
years, Park has been making the sauerkraut featured on sausages and sandwiches at Tre
Fantastico, and this recipe blends tangy kraut with broiled sardine filets, hearty kale
and bacon lardons simmered with thyme, garlic and apple Of course, no eastern
European meal is complete without a seidel of fine ale, and you don’t have to travel
far to find the perfect pairing for your kraut-inspired meal To balance the richness of
choucroute garnie, try the clean, floral pilsner from Hoyne Brewing or a Phillips
Kolsch, both available year-round For his recipe, Park recommends Hoyne Devil’s
Dream IPA or the Phillips Bottle Rocket ISA, both featuring a heavy hop nose with
only mild bitterness
For a beer that will add even greater complexity to these dishes, look for the Off the
Grid Red Lager from Hoyne, a curiosity here on the hop-obsessed coast The sour bite
of a well-fermented kraut highlights this lager’s complex malt profile, and the brew
adds a layer of earthy sweetness If you’ve chosen to include apples in your dish, Off
the Grid is an absolute must
As you set off on your foray into fermentation, just remember: nothing is set in
stone The only way to find that perfect balance of salt, spice, time and technique is
to experiment and, of course, build rapport with all of those microorganisms floating
around your kitchen
Hoyne Brewing Co., 101-2740 Bridge St., Victoria; Phillips Brewing Co., 2010 Government
St.; Tre Fantastico, 810 Humboldt St
Kerry Park’s Sardines and Sauerkraut
2 whole sardines, gutted and deboned
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Thyme
Olive oil
Thick-cut (about 1 inch) bacon lardons
1 Tbsp whole grain Dijon mustard
1 apple, cored and diced
454g/1 lb kale, destemmed and cut into large pieces
1 bottle Hoyne Devils Dream IPA
Small handful of sauerkraut (100-200g)
Salt and pepper
Marinate sardine fillets in thyme, olive oil, garlic and salt and pepper for at least 1 hour
Broil in the oven for 6-8 minutes, until done In a sauté pan, fry up the lardons on medium heat until
crispy Add kale and deglaze with 200 mL beer Add diced apple, mustard and sauerkraut Season
to taste Serve with a side of herbed roasted potatoes
Pairings: Hoyne Devil’s Dream IPA or Phillips Bottle Rocket ISA
Kelly’s Kraut Recipe
400 g salt (Tre Fantastico uses Vancouver Island sea salt)
10 L water
6-8 heads green cabbage
In a large pot, bring the water to a boil Add salt to the water and whisk until dissolved
Cut cabbage in half and de-stem/cut out the core Cut the cabbage as thin as you can without
cut-ting off a finger or two Place the thinly sliced cabbage in a sterilized bucket
Wait until the water has cooled to room temperature, then add it to the cabbage
Place a clean weight (i.e., a sterilized plate) on top of the mixture and cover with a lid for a least
seven days in a cool area to ferment Ideally under 23°C
Taste the sauerkraut after seven days to check the flavour The longer you ferment the sauerkraut,
the stronger the flavour will be, but the higher the chances of bad bacteria inhabiting the sauerkraut
A note on smell: Kraut smells funky It's fermented cabbage, so it's going to have a sulfurous, sharp,
acidic smell Bad smells are when it smells rotten, like old compost
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The whole beast
THANKS FOR YOUR PATRONAGE!
Camille`s
@ 45 Bastion Square Victoria, BC V8W 1J1 www.camillesrestaurant.com
At 45 Bastion Square
Globally Inspired
Local Flavour.
Open Lunch & Dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
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13 www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DEC 2013
Pomegranates:
Astringent Rubies
Pomegranates are one of the most beautiful and unique fruits in the world.
No other fruit has ivory chambers holding mounds of faceted, ruby-like seeds These
stunning fruits and their scintillating, astringent seeds have been considered a sacred
food and the embodiment of erotic pleasure since the ancient world They have
symbolized fertility, abundance, rejuvenation and immortality for many cultures and
religions throughout history
This exceptional fruit is high in potassium and is an excellent source of vitamin C,
polyphenols, acids and tannins, which have potent antioxidant actions The tannin
anthocyanin, an antioxidant fruit pigment that makes blueberries blue and
pomegranate seeds red, has extraordinary healing properties The seeds are used
medicinally for their cooling, drying and detoxifying astringency in Ayurvedic and
Tibetan medicine
To deseed a pomegranate, place it in a large bowl The juice stains, so protect your
clothes and countertop from splatters Cut a shallow circle out of the crown with a
sharp knife, taking care not to slice into the seeds Pull off the crown Turn the fruit
over, cut a shallow circle out of the bottom and pull it off Turn the pomegranate over
The seeds will be visible in sections edged by six lines of white pith Using the lines as
a guide, score the rind six times from top to bottom and pull it apart into six sections
of uncovered seeds Loosen the seeds from the pith into an empty bowl Eat the seeds,
sprinkle them as a sparkling garnish on fruit or vegetable salads, chicken or lamb
dishes, or juice them
To make pomegranate juice, puree the seeds in a blender, then press the pulp
through a mesh strainer into a bowl to extract all the juice If desired, add sugar to
sweeten and water to dilute the juice Two large pomegranates will yield a cup of juice
Pomegranate juice is one of the highest concentrated sources of antioxidants of any
fruit juice
You can also drink the juice directly from the fruit Release the juice from the seeds
by pressing firmly while rolling a ripe pomegranate on a cutting board Puncture the
skin and make a small, deep incision with a knife or coring tool Insert a straw and sip
from the elegant cup
Cosmos, martinis and other delectable cocktails can be made with Pama liqueur, a
blend of premium vodka, tequila and pomegranate juice, available in Victoria at five
BC liquor stores Pama can also be used in cooking
These tart-sweet fruits are cultivated throughout Asia, as well as in Spain, Greece,
Italy and Iraq, and are widely used in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisines
Most of the pomegranates sold in B.C are grown in California
Pomegranate molasses is used to flavour spicy Middle Eastern lamb and fish dishes
and can also be used to make salad dressings, sauces and marinades In Persian and
Indian cookery, ground anardana (dried pomegranate seeds) is used to add depth of
flavour to pastries, breads, chutneys, braising liquids and sauces A paste of crushed
anardana, sumac, cardamom, garlic, ginger and chilies moistened with olive oil is a
superb marinade for roasted lamb Fasenjan—chicken, duck or pheasant simmered in
a sauce made of ground walnuts, onions, chicken stock and anardana or
pomegran-ate molasses—is a delicious Iranian dish Anardana is available at Middle Eastern
specialty food stores such as Lakehill Grocery, which also sells Turkish pomegranate
juice and pomegranate syrup, a flavouring for refreshing drinks
California-grown pomegranates are available in Victoria from October to the end of
December The early fruits are the size of an orange Larger pomegranates are more
widely available in December
These red beauties will zing the strings of your heart
Visit www.eatmagazine for Sylvia’s recipe for Mohamara Dip.
GET FRESH By Sylvia Weinstock
CONSIDERED A SACRED FOOD SINCE ANCIENT
TIMES, POMEGRANATE SEEDS ARE BURSTING
WITH POTENT ANTIOXIDANTS
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lfrom left to right:
Tom Ferris, Chef Aaron Lawrence, Dave Craggs.
below: Grilled local octopus with
confit fingerling potatoes, grilled chorizo, preserved lemon, smoked paprika.
There’s a new elephant in town, and its presence can’t be ignored Little Jumbo
is the creation of Shawn Soole, a former bartender at Clive’s Classic Lounge in
the Chateau Victoria, and the culmination of his 16 years in the industry That’s
right—at just 32 years old, Soole has worked in the restaurant and bar industry
for half his life, and his commitment to Little Jumbo is highly evident when you
see the striking elephant logo tattooed on his forearm “This restaurant is not
just a whim, not just a flash in the pan,” asserts Soole “I’m as committed to this
as I have been to anything, and when I put my word on something, there is
nothing stronger.”
The space is a tribute to classic cocktail bars of old, and the pioneering spirit
of Victoria Housed in the circa 1907 Pacific Transfer Building between Wharf
and Government, the interior is warm exposed brick and worn wooden pillars
Antique light fixtures are juxtaposed with industrial light bulbs, a library of
spirited books and shelves of period glassware have found a new home here,
and a wall of black cushioned banquettes and booths beckon And oh the
bar—three hefty pieces of end-grain western maple, assembled on site and
hand-stained with Fernet Branca (a bitter aromatic spirit from Italy) for the perfezione
patina Even the name, Little Jumbo, is a tribute to the Little Jumbo Saloon in
New York, founded in 1866 and owned by “the father of American mixology,”
Harry Johnson
This Little Jumbo, however, is more than just a bar The “unpigeonholeable”
Soole insisted that this project elevate hospitality beyond cocktails It’s a
restaurant first, overseen by Chef Justin Hardiman, and showcasing local
producers every step of the way Guests are greeted with Silk Road Tea’s Little
Jumbo blend, the charcuterie features a rotating selection from Whole Beast, and
cheeses are selected by the team at Charelli’s The small-plates sharing menu
includes juicy tender porchetta from Sloping Hills, locally procured vegetables
(don’t miss the grilled kale with red wine gastrique) and an ever-evolving salt
program curated by NaCl Salt Works Chef Hardiman and team prep nearly
everything on site, from mustard to Porchetta di Testa and Duck Rillette, to
Fernet-spiced mixed nuts and house pickles
The beverage program follows suit; Soole focused on producers from the
Island and Okanagan first, along with his cherry-picked international selections
The By The Glass wine dispenser and preservation machine rotates, but when
I was there included Vancouver sommelier Tom Doughty’s extremely rare 2007
Montagu Cellars 3 Barrel Merlot alongside legendary 2004 Chateau Musar
from Bekaa Valley, Lebanon Glassware is Riedel throughout, and a dozen plus
wines by the glass highlight a love affair with boutique producers from B.C.:
Clean Slate, Unsworth, Synchromesh, Averill Creek, Orofino, Terravista, Blue
Mountain, Little Farm and more were listed when I was in The printed cocktail
list is small (a dozen rotating selections), but the back bar is mighty (250
spirits) and the bar team is able and willing Soole certainly hasn’t cut any
corners; the plan was custom-designed to his exacting specifications and
includes liquid nitrogen (ideal in classic gin martinis), the Perlini carbonation
system, the cutest 1.5-inch ice globes and an in-bar hydroponic unit for tenderly
raising fresh herbs
Though Little Jumbo has been opened just six weeks as of my press deadline,
word has spread fast and a no-reservations policy has meant queuing for a seat
on busy Friday and Saturday nights It does and does not feel like Victoria all
at once Everything around you is local, historic and familiar but with the scope
and breadth of the space, you could easily be in San Francisco or London Keep
an eye on this Little Jumbo, for it’s not going to be a little secret for long
top left: Interior of Little Jumbo on Fort St top right: Inventive cocktail: Bubbling bourbon with peach leather
bottom left: Duck rillette, grilled bread, housemade grainy mustard bottom right: Owner Shawn Soole
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Wild Thyme Coffee House, located on Saturna Island, is far from the clutches of city life but still close
enough to easily visit from Victoria, Vancouver or the other gulf islands Finding Wild Thyme on the
island is simple as it’s a stone’s throw from the ferry terminal and stands apart from the other shops and
buildings It is literally inside a double decker bus, one of ten that were built for the Commonwealth
Games back in the 60’s.When owner Aleah Johnson (her family has been on Saturna since the 1960’s)
got the bus, it was in pretty rough shape First, towing the bus to Saturna had its own list of problems,
most notably the ferry—the bus just barely fit on it Next, Aleah, with help from most of the Saturna
community, went to work fixing the bus; they repaired rusted parts, replaced windows (each one had to
be custom made), and installed a kitchen and coffee bar The upstairs of the bus was converted to
seat-ing and has comfortable booths while outside there are patio chairs and tables to sit at in good weather
The menu at Wild Thyme is seasonal and daily Aleah bakes all the bread used, as well as prepping
sandwich ingredients, making fresh soups, baking other goodies and sweets, on top of doing everything
else that comes with running a cafe Many vegetables and herbs are grown around the bus and it’s some
of these will likely end up on your plate Wild Thyme uses as much of the island’s bounty as possible,
with a few farms and many smaller “backyard” plots supplying it with produce
When EAT visited Wild Thyme, the menu consisted of a host of summer items We started with a
crostini, made on baguette with local tomatoes Everything about the crostini was pure heaven—the
bread had the perfect amount of crisp, the tomatoes had that “just picked” ripe flavour, all heightened
by the balsamic dressing Next was the Saturna Salad which used as many ingredients from Saturna
Island as could fit on the plate When we were there, the only ingredient from off-island was the cheese
Another notable menu item was the club sandwich Served on Wild Thyme olive bread, the local lettuce,
Hertel’s thick cut bacon, and fresh roasted chicken all came deliciously together with a side of chicken
corn chowder The coffee house offers a variety of drinks, from coffee, lattes, and espressos (made from
Yoka’s coffee in Victoria) to teas (Janet’s Special Teas), and juices and sodas
Saturna is the first stop on the gulf island ferry route, and is quite easy to get to from Vancouver Island
Gorgeous scenery and views, great hiking, beaches, and a fabulous spot for lunch—perfect for a short,
fun day trip I’m looking forward to a cool weather hike with the changing season, followed by a warm
beverage and the Saturna Island Root Vegetable dish—a favourite, I’m told, in the winter months Wild
Thyme is worth a visit in both the winter and summer months BY COLIN HYNES
Winter hours: October 1st-May 1st, Monday-Friday 5:45am-2:00, Saturday & Sunday 8-4
Wild Thyme Coffee House
109 East Point Road | Saturna Island | 250-539-5589
wildthymecoffeehouse.com
top left:Wild Thyme right: The Saturna Salad bottom: Aleah Johnson on the bus
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Making Magic
ROMANTIC, CANDLELIT DINING DURING THE HOLIDAYS IS A SEASONAL TREAT THESE FOUR RESTAURANTS OFFER EVEN MORE THAN A DELICIOUS SEASONAL MENU, THEY OFFER DINING MAGIC
As the days get shorter and darker, our need to celebrate the dying
light over a good meal with friends and family gets stronger and stronger The
family dinner table takes on a mythic glow, but so do some local restaurants My
favourites offer memorable meals during this magical season in rooms that are
romantic, candlelit and look out at spectacular nightscapes The feasts are cooked
by passionate chefs featuring food produced by regional growers and gatherers,
vinters, bakers and cheese makers These four dining rooms keep me returning for
special holiday meals
The Dining Room at Butchart Gardens is a local treasure and something of a
secret despite the throngs of tourists in summer Executive chef Travis Hansen
leads a team of more than a dozen Red Seal chefs, consistently producing seasonal
classics with fresh, locally grown ingredients The Dining Room also offers the
most comprehensive local wine list in the city
“When we re-open for the holiday season, we’ll design our Christmas menu
based on our meetings with Saanich Organics,” chef Hansen explained “We rely
heavily on what they can deliver.”
Overlooking the Italian Garden with thousands of Christmas lights
illuminat-ing the grounds, the former Butchart family home, now the 120-seat Dinilluminat-ing
Room, “serves more than 500 covers on a busy, summer day,” Hansen explained,
citing Oldfield Orchards, Hilary’s Cheese and Lyle Young’s chickens as other local
sources he depends upon
“Instead of summer’s 80 percent tourists, our winter season from December
1-January 6 hosts 80 percent locals Many families have been celebrating the
season with us for more than 30 years.”
You have to pay the Butchart Gardens admission before you eat at The Dining
Room, but annual passes are a bargain and the attraction’s hand-carved carousel,
outdoor skating rink, costumed carollers and musicians in the stunningly lit
garden make Hansen’s special six-course tasting menu a very special, seasonal
treat this time of year The Ultimate Christmas Party, scheduled for November 23
in the Blue Poppy Restaurant, includes dancing to the music of the Chris
Milling-ton Band The annual Christmas light-up is December 1
Camille’s in Bastion Square is another romantic favourite, especially during the
holiday season Manager/proprietor Jamie Williams and chef/proprietor Stephan
Drolet offer a charmingly urbane dining experience based on seasonal, local
ingredients The menu changes daily at the cozy bistro, and it’s always inspired
“This time of year I’ll use a lot of chestnuts,” chef Drolet told me “I use them
in bread, as a paste, in soup, with rabbit and duck I cook a lot of Brussels sprouts
too I just blister them slightly and serve with fresh apples from Madrona Farm
and Saanich Organics.”
Young chef Brad Holmes and his partner Sahara Tamarin have created another
menu drawn from fresh, local offerings at Ulla, the hip, modern room at the foot
of Chinatown Impeccable service, the restaurant’s whole animal butchery
program and Holmes’s artistic flair combine to make Ulla a great dining
experi-ence, especially in the depths of winter when we really need the brilliance of
culinary fireworks
“Brad cooks what is inspiring him,” Tamarin told me “He cooks the flavours he
wants to eat Less is coming in the door this time of year, but we’ve got winter
vegetables from Ragley Farm, and last year Brad cooked an amazing Armenian
Christmas fish dish for our customers.”
At Vista 18, on the 18th floor of Chateau Victoria, the sparkling view of
down-town is always a draw Live jazz Thursday, Friday and Saturday night helps light
up the night sky high above the city, and the local-inspired menu featuring Haida
Gwaii halibut, Sooke mountain trout and oysters on the half-shell from
Outlandish Oysters brings me back to this holiday-decorated room amid the stars
Like my other holiday favourites, Vista 18 offers more than a delicious, seasonal menu from
local farms and fishermen It offers dining magic BY JOSEPH BLAKE
The Dining Room at Butchart Gardens, 250-652-8222 for reservations Camille’s, 45 Bastion Square, 250-381-3433
Ulla, 509 Fisgard St., 250-590-8795 Vista 18, Chateau Victoria, 740 Burdett Ave 250-382-9258
Ranchlands organic beef striploin Potato fondant, beet puree, warm chanterelle salad, parmesan crumb, sweet garlic puree at Camille’s
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www.oughtred.com
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The simplest things in life are often the most treasured It’s an old bromide, but, like most homilies, it’sbased in truth and can be applied to food My first visits to Farmer’s Apprentice made me appreciatethat statement’s validity, thanks to David Gunawan, co-owner and executive chef Diners mayremember Gunawan fondly from his sojourns at West and Wildebeest, but it’s in his own kitchen that thetrue essence of his cookery has come to light, and that essence is simplicity Yes, the focus is on local,sustainable, etc., but that is just the launch point for a menu that sings sweetly about showing off thepurity of good ingredients
That focus shouldn’t be viewed as simplistic, however, as Gunawan’s food is anything but A healthy
list of share plates, which changes daily for the most part, is packed with variety, complexity andintriguing notes like the romanesca (from the cauliflower family) that appears on one plate A lightlypoached egg floats in a bowl of brandade over a base of caramelized onions and is topped with toastypine nuts, greens and black olive bits For $10, it’s a steal and a delight, and could easily be eaten forbreakfast on a daily basis Grilled octopus ($12) is fork-tender without being mushy, and boasts chorizoand teeny diced potatoes in a vegetable jus of sweet peppers and parsley Olive oil-poached sablefish($13) is so buttery and light that it dissipates on contact with the tongue, and fresh Reed Island oysters($10) are elevated into ambrosia with a sorrel sorbet that is hoovered off the shells in record time
As the name might suggest, the room is minimalist but cozily seats 25 A pitchfork graces one wall,while wooden benches line picnic tables outside the front door, and a comfy banquet faces the openkitchen and bar Small accents like the flower bowls that double as menu holders keep things fromgetting too serious, and the music sets an easy vibe that suits the young family eating out front as much
as the posh, older couple discussing wines with their server Casual, comfortable and affordable,Farmer’s Apprentice has brought a delicious and easily digested vibe to South Granville
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It’s not often you get to go to a restaurant that specializes in making food out of…ingredients But that
is the revolutionary new concept from co-owners Ron Oliver (formerly of Lucy Mae Brown, The Diamond
and Blue Water Café) and Simon Kaulback (West, Boneta, Chambar) Throw in the culinary capers of
EC Tobias Grignon (Wedgewood Hotel, Senova, Bistro Pastis), and you have a seriously unpretentious,
casual and comfortable space in the heart of Chinatown that serves up modern American comfort food
with a healthy dose of humour
It’s hard not to laugh at the retro Sears Roebuck target practice papers for beavers, woodchucks and
other assorted small animals that cover the walls in one bathroom Assorted taxidermy throughout the
restaurant is less amusing, but somehow in keeping with the overall tongue-in-cheek theme, and seems
to be a growing trend in East Side restaurants
And, in case, you were wondering, the owners’ and chef’s bios on the restaurant website are equally
quirky (Grignon did not, in fact, grow up on a peyote plantation, and, as of the date of this writing, has
yet to offer a single krump dancing lesson)
As for the food, it’s just plain good The tiny Montecristo sandwich ($6) is an inspired blend of smoked
veal tongue and cheese on Wonder Bread (really), fried a deep, crispy, golden brown and sided with
housemade thousand islands dressing White cheddar grits ($13) are luscious with grilled mushrooms,
fava beans and a warm, runny egg yolk for extra oomph Rich meatballs in tomato sauce ($6) are
stuffed with bacon-wrapped dates
As for mains, comfort staples like fried chicken ($18) get re-done in a brilliant—and less greasy—
handling, with an initial sous vide followed by a quick flash in the deep fryer with a coating of wheat
flour, rice flour and cornstarch The result is moist flesh topped with a thin, perfectly crispy skin that
offers a very nice crunch, indeed
And, in case you were wondering just who was Mamie Taylor, she was a singer-dancer-actress from
the turn of the last century who liked to kick up her heels and had a fantastic drink named after her (it’s
on the menu) I enjoyed both it and the Aviation ($10), a gin and violet liqueur concoction with a kiss
of citrus BY ANYA LEVYKH
251 East Georgia St., Vancouver | 604.620.8818
www.mamietaylors.ca
There is something to be said for a straightforward, slightly homey approach to food It seems several
new restaurants these days have menus based on nothing more complicated than what the
chefs-in-residence like to eat on their off-hours With chef Josh Wolfe’s inaugural stint as co-owner/executive
chef at Good Wolfe (along with partner Richard Goodine), one expects to find a delicious and
soul-satiating menu—and one is not disappointed
It’s not precisely French, and it’s not wholly comfort food, as items like salmon “shawarma” are not
exactly your typical blue-plate special Taken all together, however, it makes for a solid selection of
delicious dishes and innovative cocktails that warm the cockles of your palate The latter are thanks to
Goodine’s relentless quest for cocktails that hit the palate with a parade of flavours that work cohesively,
yet still assert their individual characters Take the Coronation Cup ($10), a new addition tasted on my
most recent visit Coronation grapes, gin and elderflower are the main attractions, creating something
both fresh and slightly tart at the same time
Steelhead “pastrami” ($11) is an innovative take on pastrami on rye, here done with lightly cured
steelhead, maple mustard, and caraway crackers Hummus ($7) is better than what I’ve had in Israel,
with tahina and zatar in prominent use Coq au vin ($21) is Cornish hen with crispy golden skin cooked
in gewurtz instead of the traditional red, and laid to rest over a bed of baby vegetables, earthy
mushrooms and chunks of bacon The whole comes with an enormous side of the housemade späetzle,
pan-fried crispy Braised beef cheek ($22) is almost feral in its earthiness, while the bed of country risotto
it rests on is an interesting contrast in textures between the crisp carrots and creamy rice
As for the room, it’s mainly Yaletown heritage special, with brick wall, poured concrete floor, and a
fantastic showcase wall at the back plastered in wine bottles and phonetic spellings of varietals
(V-On-Yay, anyone?) It’s also got one of the best bars in the round (or, in this case, square), perfect for
regular communal dinners and impromptu speakeasy nights BY ANYA LEVYKH
1043 Mainland St., Vancouver | 604.428.1043
www.goodwolfe.ca
Good Wolfe
19 www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013
Meating
MEATS
www.tworiversmeats.com 604.990.5288 info@ tworiversmeats.com
TWO RIVERS SPECIALTY MEATS DIRECT TO CONSUMER PROGRAM
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SILK ROADSALT
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Trang 21trolling through the new Victoria Public Market in the first
couple of weeks after its mid-September opening was both a feast forthe senses and a good exercise for the imagination The long-awaitedVictoria Public Market was still very much a work in progress when
I took my circle tour to meet the permanent vendors—those whohave opened and those who are coming soon—anchoring the newpublic market
As you walk in the front doors from Douglas Street, the Salt Spring Island Cheese
Company greets you with a generous spread of samples All their goat cheeses, from
chèvres, feta, a few surface-ripened cheeses and a hard cheese, are made at their farm
on Salt Spring A carefully chosen selection of crackers, olives and preserves provideall the components for an elegant cheese board in one spot www.saltspringcheese.com The empty space beside the cheese shop will soon be filled with cake! Marcene VonRavenhurst first knew she wanted to open a cake shop after presenting a memorabledessert at an event “The definitive moment was at a party where I delivered a layeredmeringue cake with violet cream and blueberries within a halo of spun sugar andedible flowers Everyone went quiet when it was served.”
The Damn Fine Cake Co was born in 2006 but had been waiting for the right
retail space to become available Von Ravenhurst says that “after meeting with line and the Victoria Public Market Society, it was absolute—it found a home and Ifound a fantastic work environment.” In addition to their selection of cakes, DamnFine plans to offer daily soup, salad and sandwich options for the lunch crowd, andcrêpes served in a stack with cherry preserves “like my Gramma used to make… You’llneed a good coffee to go with those!” (You can get one at 2% Jazz, in the back right-hand corner of the Hudson The entrance is on Fisgard) You will also be able to find
Town-the Il Dolce Gelato kiosk sharing space with Town-the cake damnfinecakeco.ca
Next door is Sutra, Vij’s highly anticipated Victoria outlet Mike Bernardo, chief
operating officer and wine director at Vij’s for the past 12 years, is the owner of the newcanteen and says it has been an overwhelming experience to be one of the firstvendors at the market “Victoria is such a great food city and we are excited to roundout the diversity of the market.” Bernardo’s staff trained in Vij’s Vancouver kitchensand is making the popular pakoras, cassava fries, naan and drinks in-house You canfind Vij’s frozen entrées, as well as his cookbooks and spices, here Chai caramels from
Vancouver’s The Candid Confectioner are also available facebook.com/VijsSutra
Beside Sutra is the Cowichan Bay Seafood Company’s brand-new Victoria shop,
selling an impressive selection of local and sustainable (Sea Choice and Oceanwisecertified) seafood Owner Greg Best says, “We had been looking for a Victoria retailspace and thought the market’s concept was a good fit for our business We liked theidea of sharing space with other local farmers and producers.”
cowichanbayseafood.com
The next vacant spot is destined to become home to Victoria’s newest kitchen shop,
Whisk This is the new venture of Marion Osberg, who has many years’ experience
working at Haute Cuisine With the planned closing of Haute Cuisine, Osberg saw theopportunity to open her own shop, stocking many of the items that were popularthere, such as Fiestaware, kitchen gadgets, and Rosti bowls and utensils Osberg isplanning a December 1 opening
A few steps over is the nostalgia-inducing Victoria Pie Company Founded by
Robin Larocque, who discovered her passion for pie-making after a resoundinglysuccessful attempt to make her French-Canadian husband a tourtière, the baker is on
a “food rescue” mission—to save beautiful local produce just past its prime Fruit thatwould otherwise go to waste gets turned into delicious pie Hop onto a stool at their
21 www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013
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quiche and salad combos at lunchtime victoriapiecompany.com
Up the stairs to your right is the large retail space that has been earmarked for thegreengrocer Townline is building out the space, which will be run by veteran green-
grocer Linda Freethy Freethy worked for Red Barn for many years and has
well-established connections with local farmers and producers here on VI
Now’s the time to stop at 2% Jazz for a great cup of coffee Head outside, they’re justaround the corner
Wafting across a sitting area is the smell of freshly baked artisan breads and treats at
the French Oven Husband-and-wife team Sandra VanVliet and Nick Castro were
completing their first season at the James Bay Farmers Market, and intended to sign
on to the market as kiosk vendors, when it was suggested that they might occupy apermanent retail space with seating area Castro had experience working as a baker inFrance, so the leap from kiosk to permanent vendor did not seem too daunting.VanVliet manages the retail space while Castro takes care of the baking at theirproduction kitchen a few blocks away from the market Plans to set up a commercialoven onsite are in the works Baked goods on offer are firmly rooted in the Frenchbaking tradition—expect baguette and sourdough loaves, croissants and pain auchocolats And if you happen to be in the company of a small child, they will be
offered a hand-sized pastry knot, on the house frenchovenbakery.ca
Heading back down the steps, we pass by the entrance to Olive the Senses (opensince last September; (see Joseph Blake’s EAT story in the Jan./Feb 2013 issue), and we
arrive in front of the just-announced Ravenstone Farm Artisan Meats The
part-ners behind the new butcher shop are Trevor Hooper and Grant Smith and his sonLogan The Smiths farm the 23-acre Ravenstone Farm in Qualicum that will supply agood portion of the pork, turkey and lamb that will be on offer in their shop Hooper(whose name may ring a bell; he was the chef-owner of Vancouver’s Raku) has a nearbyfarm and will be supplying the chicken Ravenstone plans to open January 1, 2014
ravenstonefarm.com
Neighbouring the butcher shop is Roast, Victoria’s new rotisserie destination The
latest venture of George Szasz (Stage) and Ryan McGregor (Canoe), Roast has garnered
a cult following in record time and from a full spectrum of demographics WatchingSzasz attentively slice the porchetta, making sure each portion gets its fair ration ofcrackling, I overhear a middle-aged woman tell her friend, “It’s just like my motherused to make.” The sight and smell of proper roasts—be it beef, pork, chicken or lamb,
do seem to trigger the strongest kind of food nostalgia, and the meat at Roast, served
as a sandwich or in a bowl with a side of kale Caesar or traditional roast veg, more thandelivers I suspect they may be unwittingly unleashing a resurgence of the Sundaydinner In addition to supplying an old-fashioned taste of home to go, Roast is alsoavailable to cater events
Tucked in beside Roast sits Victoria’s new Community Kitchen The site of many
chef demos over the market’s opening weekend, the kitchen is VIHA- approved andavailable for rent around the clock Fees are on a sliding scale, with the goal of sup-porting local, food-related non-profits, social enterprises and community initiatives
Just beyond the Community Kitchen is the Island Spice Trade, owned and
operated by Vancouver Island Salt Co.’s Andrew Shepherd In addition to his owninfused Canadian sea salts, Shepherd is creating unique spice blends and carryingOrganic Fair herbs, chocolates and soda syrups
And what could be more fitting, next door to a spice shop, than an authentic
Mexican restaurant? Named La Cocina de Mama Oli for its chef, Mama Oli is
Olimpia Cisneros, a native of Guadalajara, Mexico Tortillas are made on site, and aspecialty of Guadalajara—carne en su jugo (meat in its juice)—will be a regular menuitem
The last stop on the circle tour is a few steps past the entrance to Smoken Bones Silk
Road, named “Canada’s most beautiful tea store” by Wine Access magazine, sits front
and centre at the market Started by tea master Daniela Cubelic in 1992, Silk Roadnow has a second location with a selection of their organic teas and teaware The Victoria Downtown Public Market Society, Townline and the vendors are alldoing their part to make this endeavour a success Now it is up to us, the public, to see
that it thrives victoriapublicmarket.com
1701 Douglas St., Tues.–Sat 9:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m., Sun 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m
Farmers’ Market on Wed., Sat and Sun 11 a.m.- 3 p.m
E
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TASTEDBy Joseph Blake
KNOWN FOR THEIR MACCHA TEA, THIS TINY SPOT ON
COURTNEY STREET IS BRANCHING OUT WITH THE
ADDITION OF JAPANESE- INSPIRED DESSERTS
JagaSilk, Japanese treats
Jared and Miyuki Nyberg are passionate about maccha green tea The Victoria-based couple started their
wholesale business in 2005 and now supply many local outlets, including Discovery Coffee, 2% Jazz, Lifestyle
Markets and Red Barn Country Market, with the highest quality maccha In 2009, the couple opened Jagasilk Tea
Bar in Nootka Court
JagaSilk Tea Bar is a cozy little space with a handful of seats at the bar, a table with a couple of chairs, and a couch
and table in one corner Recently, Jared and Miyuki began offering house-made, Japanese-inspired desserts paired
with teas from their maccha tasting menu and curated, seasonal, loose tea menu
Last month when I visited Jagasilk Tea Bar, they were serving house-made crème caramel made from Avalon
Dairy cream served in a little mason jar with a fresh, ever-bearing, local strawberry on a dollop of whipped cream
The dish was paired with a cup of Mist Valley Nepal, FTGOP
“FTGFOP stands for finest, tippy (leaf-size), golden, flowery, orange pekoe It’s from an Indian system of
quality designation that is also used by tea suppliers in Nepal,” the lanky Nyberg explained as his wife prepared
the day’s other dessert offering, a strawberry daifuku served on a beautiful, leaf-shaped ceramic plate
Jagasilk also stocks local potter Harumi Ota’s tea bowls, pottery from Miyuki’s hometown of Gifu, Japan, and
various traditional tea utensils, including whisks or chasen, made by one of Japan’s 13 living treasures
(craftsmen) The chasen are used to whip the stone-ground, micro-milled, shade-grown, de-stemmed, de-veined
maccha—one gram of the green powder to 60 grams of water brought to 70°C in Jagasilk’s exacting procedure
“We originally wanted to create a space to enjoy maccha tea,” Jared continued while leaning over the counter
to whip up a bowl of maccha for me “We’re now pairing several house-made desserts with our teas using local,
organic ingredients whenever possible.” Miyuki and Jared paired the strawberry daifuku with macca gryphon, a
blend of two, top-grade cultivars grown and processed by one of Jagasilk’s two Japanese growers
“I had my first flavour pairing epiphany while in Japan during a Grade 12 exchange [where he first met Miyuki],
and it was an awesome experience In a successful pairing synergy, 1+1 = 3 Lately, I’ve been working on tea and
cheese pairings, and I’ve discovered the Mist Valley Nepal pairs very nicely with Moonstruck’s Stilton.”
Speaking together quietly in Japanese behind the bar’s close quarters, the couple produce traditional maccha,
loose tea, desserts and organic nut milk made from almond, cashew and brazil nuts The strawberry daifuku they
paired with maccha gryphon is a subtle, mind-blowing experience At the centre of a glutinous, sweet, white ball
of steamed rice flour is a fresh, local strawberry wrapped in a layer of anko, or Japanese azuki bean paste The
combination of textures and sweetness is heightened by the maccha’s smooth and richly herbaceous aromas and
flavours I could almost imagine the verdant, Japanese terroir
“My next goal is to incorporate wild edibles from First Nations groups into our desserts, ingredients like Labrador
tea, salal berries and wild cranberries A class I took at UVic with Nancy Turner intensified my interest in
ethnobotany and wildcrafting, but we want to make sure that anything we add to our menu has quality
ingredients and reflects our core belief in beauty, balance and ethical business.”
Jagasilk Tea Bar | 633 Courtney St., Nootka Court, Victoria | 250-721-5242
To arrange a class with Jagasilk’s Maccha Academy, call 778-430-5683 or visit the website, www.jagasilk.com.
pictured: Strawberry Daifuku
paired with a bowl of Macca Gryphon
tea - a blend of Raven (single cultivar yabukita)
and Eagle (single cultivar okumidori) that they make at the bar
Trang 24“In every restaurant the customer is always right But I want to change that rule.”
These are the words of Green Wasabi owner and chef Sang Kyu What lies beneath
that pronouncement is Sang’s dedication to teaching his customers about
Japan-ese food To that end, the first thing you see on the menu is two cultural tips: use
soy sauce sparingly, if at all; and eat miso soup during the meal, not before it, as
it is meant as a palate cleanser Apparently the miso before the meal pattern is a
sop to Western preferences, but not on Sang Kyu’s watch And I like that I like to
be taught and guided when I’m eating food from another culture And when the
food is this good, I’m fine with being bossed around a bit The house salad ($7.95)
is creative and colourful, with tender squid atop julienned red peppers, cucumbers
and lettuce I got careful instruction about putting all the components together on
the fork to best appreciate the salad The dressing is a lively orange colour, which
at first prompted the blasphemous thought, “Huh, Thousand Islands dressing?”
But of course it wasn’t It was, in fact, an elegant blend of Asian pear, grape, apple
and kiwi, with a touch of strawberry providing the colour
The parade of colours continued with the purple dynamite roll ($5.95) The
rice’s purplish hue came from a mix of black and white rice This roll is mostly
stuffing—prawn tempura, cucumber and avocado—with just a thin layer of rice
A generous layer of sesame overtop gives it a crunch I also tried the fusion salad
roll, which was presented as a special for $8.95 and topped with swirls of three
dif-ferent sauces, one spicy, one honey-garlic mustard and one teriyaki Rice paper
wrappers are packed with lettuce, rice, cucumber, avocado, oishinko (Japanese
pickle), crab meat, a choice of one other protein and a bite of pepper This place
will suit the educated eater of Japanese food well, and I will be back to take Chef
Sang up on his suggestion of bring parties who are invited to state their spending
range and then sit back and trust him to bring out his creations
Sushi, Turkish Delights
and a Seaside Brunch
Green Wasabi | 1692 Douglas, Victoria
Turk-as well Turk-as fresh dill and parsley Other clTurk-assic Turkish offerings are the bureks—buttery,croissant-like pastries filled with delicious combinations such as leek and beef or spinach andfeta Classic sandwiches are also available: the turkey provolone wrap was jazzed up with justthe right amount of cranberry mayonnaise And sometimes the two worlds merge The roastedvegetable sandwich is certainly something you see on other menus, but not with Turkishwalnut paste as one of the layers To bring a little bit of Turkey with you, pick up some treatsfrom a basket on your way out: roasted hazelnuts, a fig and walnut mix or a high qualityTurkish delight Sandwiches are $5.75 to $6.75, and bureks are $3.95, making for a lunchboth affordable and interesting
left:
The Turkish Red Lentil Soup, ground beef and leek borek, Tuzlu kek and feta borek
right:
Manager Ozge Karahasan drinking a Turkish coffee
far left:Owner Sang Kyu mixing the black rice to show how vinegar causes a colour change and insuring
an even distribution of seasoning
near left: Fusion salad roll
right: Dynamite roll