Sách dạy làm bánh Mon cher éclair

Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 375°F [190°C] keep the oven door open for 3 to 5 seconds to bring down the oven temperature; if you’re baking two sheets at once,

mon cher éclairAND OTHER BEAUTIFUL PASTRIES, INCLUDING

CREAM PUFFS, PROFITEROLES, AND GOUGÈRES

Charity Ferreira

photographs by JOSEPH DE LEO

Text copyright © 2016 by Charity Ferreira.

Photographs copyright © 2016 by Joseph De Leo.

All rights reserved No part of this book may be reproduced in any

form without written permission from the publisher.

ISBN 978-1-4521-5072-7 (epub, mobi)

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available.

ISBN 978-1-4521-4566-2 (pb)

Designed by Vanessa Dina

Photo assisting by Kazuhito Sakuma

Food styling by Liza Jernow

Food assisting by Kristin Miglore

Typesetting by Frank Brayton

I especially want to thank Marlene Kawahata and Maryanne Welton, who meticulously tested recipes and provided invaluable insights and sugges- tions And last but not least, thank you Dylan, for your enthusiasm and your help, and for requesting éclairs for your birthday dessert!

Éclairs 14

Classic Caramel Profiteroles 68

Chocolate Profiteroles 70

Cacao Nib Profiteroles 73

Blackberry-Mascarpone Cream Puffs 75

New Orleans Cream Puffs 76

Summer-Pudding Puffs 79

Caramel–Banana Split Puffs 81

Courtesans au Chocolat 87

Classic Gougères 92

Sea Salt and Cracked Black Pepper Gougères 95

Gougères with Scrambled Eggs and Greens 100

Salt Cod Gougères 101Gougères with Cured Anchovies 103

Picnic Gougères 104

Gougères with Roast Beef 109

Index 110

Gougères and Savory Snacks 90 Profiteroles and Cream Puffs 66

mon cher éclair

introduction

If you’ve never tried making éclairs or

haven’t made them in years, it’s time! The

éclairs you remember have been nudged

into the twenty-first century and are

now bursting with bold new flavors and

bright colors.

Éclairs and their cousins—profiteroles,

cream puffs, and savory gougères—are

made from pâte à choux, a dough that is

the basis of many French pastries When

baked, it has a crisp yet tender exterior and

an airy, slightly eggy interior that is made

to hold rich, creamy filling While pâte à

choux–based pastries look elegant, they’re

not at all difficult to make at home.

The formula for successful pâte à choux

reminds me of that old-fashioned American

recipe for 1-2-3 pound cake that was so

called because it was so easy to

remem-ber: 1 cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, and

3 cups of flour Pâte à choux has just a few

ingredients, and the basic proportions are

so easy to remember that if you make it a few times, you’ll know it by heart If you’re the kind of baker who loves exploring kitchen science, there are more than a dozen small variables that can affect how your choux pastry will come out, from the moisture in the air to the hot spots in your oven And if you just want to make éclairs without bothering about the details, the good news is that, if you follow a few simple guidelines, you’ll be able to make successful éclairs on your very first attempt.

heat-If you have a kitchen scale, use one when you’re making pâte à choux to check that

your 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp of flour weighs

140 grams And if you don’t have a kitchen

scale, you’ll do just fine if you stir up your

flour a bit first, spoon lightly packed flour

into the measuring cup, and level off

the top.

You may have seen choux recipes that

call for an electric stand mixer, but I prefer

to simply mix by hand It’s one less bowl

to wash afterward, and the choux really

doesn’t require the heavy beating that

makes a mixer necessary.

I use a pastry bag with a ¾-in [2-cm] round

tip for piping out éclairs and profiteroles

and for filling them with cream You can

buy single-use plastic pastry bags that work

well for this purpose at kitchen-supply

stores You could also spoon the choux

or the filling into a zip-top plastic bag and

snip off a corner.

For baking your creations, you’ll need a

couple of heavy-duty baking sheets and

baking parchment to line them Choux

pastries left to cool on a baking sheet turn

out just fine, but, if you prefer, you can

transfer the baked pastries to a wire-mesh

cooling rack.

When it comes to making silky smooth

pastry creams, citrus curds, and fruit

sauces, you’ll want a fine-mesh strainer

with a handle for straining your finished

product You can buy this kind of strainer

at cooking-supply stores, and you’ll be

surprised at what an indispensable tool it

I’m draining cooked pasta or fishing blanched veggies out of boiling water.

mixing

The process for mixing pâte à choux is simple Bring water and butter to a boil, remove it from the heat, and stir in your flour, sugar, and salt with a wooden spoon until it comes together in a smooth mass

At this point you’ll return the pan to the heat and cook the mixture for 1 to 2 min- utes to cook off some of the moisture Then you’ll remove the mixture from the heat and let it cool for 5 minutes before adding your eggs.

Beating in the eggs is where many cooks are deterred, because when you add the first egg and start stirring, the mixture will look like a separated, curdled mess It’s not ruined! Keep stirring the mixture vigorously with the wooden spoon, and you’ll see that the egg will incorporate smoothly Do this for all four eggs, one at a time, and by the end you will have a smooth, glossy mixture that’s somewhere between a thick batter and a very soft dough Give the mixture a good vigorous stirring for a few seconds after the fourth egg is incorporated The amount you beat the pâte à choux at this stage affects how much your pastries will puff up in the oven Beating the mixture extensively after the eggs are incorporated will give you éclairs that are puffier than the long, slender baton-shaped éclairs sold in French pastry shops Not beating the choux enough will result in éclairs

mon cher éclair

in which you piped them, and they will

have a dense interior Beating the mixture

vigorously for a few seconds will result in

éclairs that are airy and lofty with a slender,

defined shape—in the words of Goldilocks:

Just right.

Note that if you’re making éclairs for a

crowd, it’s best to mix up each batch of

choux separately, rather than doubling the

recipe The bigger the batch, the harder

it is to incorporate the eggs by hand and

get consistent results.

shaping

In this book you’ll find recipes for éclairs,

mini éclairs, profiteroles, cream puffs, and

gougères A medium piping bag fitted

with a plain ¾-in [2-cm] tip is the easiest

way to make consistently shaped pastries

If you don’t have a pastry bag, a 1-gl [27-by-

27-cm] plastic zip-top bag makes a fine

makeshift piping bag, used either with or

without a metal pastry tip.

To fill a pastry bag with choux, snip off the

pointed end of the bag and slide in the

metal pastry tip Fold down the edge of

the bag over your hand, like a collar, and

use your other hand to spoon in the choux

Unfold the edge of the bag and twist the

bag closed from the top, squeezing the

choux down to the tip of the bag If you’re

using a zip-top bag, spoon in the choux in

a similar fashion Twist the bag closed from

the top and then use scissors to snip about

½ in [12 mm] off one bottom corner You

want an opening that is around ¾ in [2 cm].

Begin piping out your choux by squeezing from the top as you twist the top of the bag further, forcing the choux down and out the opening.

To pipe éclairs: Hold the tip at a 45-degree angle to the baking sheet and pipe out batons that are about ¾ in [2 cm] thick and

4 in [10 cm] long It will likely take you a few tries to get the hang of piping perfectly uniform éclairs, but remember that once they’re filled and glazed, every éclair is beautiful!

the tip at a 90-degree angle to the baking sheet and pipe round mounds Use a finger dipped in water to press down any point

or peak at the top for a smooth, rounded puff Pumpkin Chouquettes (page 85), at

1 in [2.5 cm] in diameter, are the smallest puffs in this book Profiteroles are piped

in mounds that are about 1½ in [4 cm] in diameter, and gougères are a little bigger

at about 2 in [5 cm] Finally, desserts that consist of a single cream puff, like Summer- Pudding Puffs (page 79) or Caramel– Banana Split Puffs (page 81), are piped

in mounds that are about 2½ in [6 cm] across.

baking

Start your choux shells in a hot, 400°F [200°C] oven and bake for 15 minutes Lower the oven temperature to 375°F [190°C] and bake them for another 15 min- utes Remove the shells from the oven and give them a few pricks with a sharp paring

knife along their bottom edge and return

them to the oven for about 10 minutes to

dry out the eggy insides of the choux.

filling and glazing

I've paired my favorite combinations of

fillings and glazes in the recipes, but feel

free to mix and match to your heart's

content It’s easiest to finish your éclairs in

a single step Gather what you’ll need to

fill and glaze your éclairs while the pastries

are cooling, slice the shells (see following),

and you’re ready to go.

Éclairs can be glazed with shiny dark

chocolate or with colorful powdered-

sugar glazes that mimic the bright, glossy

fondant glazes in French pastry shops

Your glaze should be warm and fluid but

thick enough to coat the top of the pastry

with a thin, opaque layer For chocolate

glaze, if it’s too thin, let it stand a few

min-utes to cool; if it’s too thick, reheat it in

the microwave or over a pan of simmering

water and stir well For powdered-sugar

glaze, if it’s too thin, add a little more

powdered sugar; if it’s too thick, stir in a

few drops of hot water The éclairs here

are dipped into the glaze, but you can get

fancy and pipe the glaze on top to create

a pretty pattern.

You have two options when it comes to

filling your éclairs.

The simplest way to fill éclairs is simply to

slice each one in half horizontally with a

sharp serrated knife Spoon or pipe the

filling over each bottom half Dip the top half in the glaze, allowing any excess to run back into the bowl, and then replace the top.

If you want a fancier presentation, you can leave the éclairs whole and pipe in a pastry cream filling from the ends Use a sharp paring knife to make a small hole close to the bottom at both ends of each éclair Fill a pastry bag fitted with a small round tip with pastry cream Starting at one end, pipe in the filling until it reaches the middle of the éclair You’ll be able to feel the weight of the filling going in; you can give the middle a gentle squeeze to see if the cream has made it that far Now

do the same thing from the other end, and you should have an éclair filled with pastry cream Dip the top in glaze, allowing any excess to run back into the bowl.

Using your chosen method, repeat to fill and glaze the remaining éclairs If you’re serving them right away, refrigerate them uncovered for a few minutes to set the glaze If they’ll be in the refrigerator for a few hours, cover loosely with plastic wrap once the glaze is set Éclairs are best eaten within a day of being filled Whipped cream fillings, such as Nutella Filling (see page 23) and Raspberry Cream Filling (see page 33), are more delicate than pastry creams, and so are best spooned in; push- ing whipped cream fillings through the opening of a pastry bag can cause them

to lose some of their airy volume.

mon cher éclair

storing

You can freeze unfilled, baked choux

pastries for about 1 month Cool them

completely and seal them in zip-top plastic bags When you’re ready to use them,

place the éclairs or puffs (either thawed or

frozen) in a 300°F [150°C] oven for about

10 minutes to crisp and refresh them Filled, dipped éclairs should be eaten within

about 12 hours Once the glaze is set,

refrigerate them loosely covered with

plastic wrap For the best flavor, take them

out of the refrigerator about 15 minutes

before serving.

all-purpose flour

2 tsp sugar

½ tsp sea salt

½ cup [110 g] unsalted butter, cut into chunks

4 eggs

Pâte à Choux

In a small bowl, stir together the flour, sugar,

and salt

In a medium saucepan over medium heat,

heat the water and butter When the butter

is melted, bring the mixture to a simmer

Remove the pan from the heat and add the

flour mixture Stir vigorously with a wooden

spoon until the mixture comes together in a

smooth mass Return the pan to low heat and

cook the mixture for 1½ to 2 minutes, stirring

continuously to keep it from scorching

Remove the pan from the heat and let the

mixture cool for 5 minutes

Add one egg and mix vigorously with the

wooden spoon until it is incorporated The

mixture will look separated and curdled after

you add the egg, but don’t be deterred!

Just keep mixing, and it will come together

smoothly Add the remaining eggs, one at a

time, beating well after each After the fourth

egg, you will have a smooth, shiny pâte à

choux mixture Beat the mixture vigorously

for a few seconds after the last egg is

incorpo-rated The pâte à choux is now ready to pipe

into your preferred shape

VARIATION: Chocolate Pâte à Choux Chocolate pâte à choux is a wonderful way to highlight more subtly flavored pastry creams

or to boost the flavor of chocolate fillings Like basic pate à choux, it is easy to make Simply increase the sugar to 2 Tbsp and add 3 Tbsp Dutch-process cocoa powder to the flour mix-ture, then proceed as directed

Éclairs

Welcome to the marvelous world of éclairs! The crisp-tender pâte à choux shell, as deliciously eggy and buttery as it is, is merely a vehicle for sweet creamy fillings and intensely colored glazes Once you’re hooked, don’t be surprised

if you find yourself coming up with creative ideas for making éclairs to fit all kinds of occasions They’ll get a warm reception

at dinner parties, after-school snack time, Sunday family dinners, and book-club night Topped with colorful sprinkles, they give birthday cupcakes a run for their money

I have yet to see éclairs served as a wedding dessert, but I know that day is not far off And in the meantime, of course, éclairs like Meyer Lemon–Cream (page 39) and Raspberry Crush (page 33) are just right for bridal or baby showers.

Classic Éclairs

This is the quintessential éclair: a crisp pâte à choux shell filled with silky vanilla pastry cream and

topped with a shiny dark chocolate glaze Let this be your jumping-off point to the wide and wonderful

world of éclairs!

TO MAKE THE PASTRY CREAM: Place a

fine-mesh strainer over a clean bowl and set aside

In a medium saucepan over medium heat,

combine the milk and ¼ cup [50 g] of the

sugar Scrape the seeds of the vanilla bean

into the milk, add the pod, and heat, stirring,

until the sugar is dissolved

In a small bowl, stir together the remaining

¼ cup [50 g] sugar, the cornstarch, and salt

Whisk in the egg yolks to make a smooth

paste Set aside

When the milk mixture is steaming, whisk

about ½ cup [120 ml] of the milk mixture into

the egg mixture Then whisk the egg mixture

back into the milk (Use a flexible spatula to

scrape all of the egg mixture from the bowl.)

Cook gently over low to medium-low heat,

whisking continuously, for 4 to 6 minutes, or

until the mixture starts to thicken and bubbles

begin to break the surface Once bubbles

start to break the surface, cook for 1 minute

more (keep stirring!), and then remove the

pan from the heat

the reserved bowl (Discard the vanilla bean pod.) Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pastry cream to keep a skin from forming Chill until cold, about 3 hours

4 in [10 cm] long, leaving 1 to 1½ in [2.5 to

4 cm] of space between them

Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 375°F [190°C] (keep the oven door open for 3 to 5 seconds to bring down the oven temperature; if you’re baking two sheets at once, switch their position in the oven) and bake for another 15 minutes

Using a paring knife, prick each shell several times close to the bottom along one side

Return the shells to the oven and bake for another 10 minutes to dry out the eggy

VANILLA-BEAN PASTRY CREAM

½ cup [120 ml] heavy (whipping) cream

mon cher éclair

You can leave them on the baking sheet, or,

if you prefer, you can transfer them to a wire

cooling rack

TO MAKE THE GLAZE: In a shallow bowl that

is wide enough to dip an éclair, combine the

chocolate and butter In a small saucepan

over medium heat, heat the cream until it

comes to a simmer Pour the hot cream over

the chocolate mixture and let stand for

1 minute Whisk until the chocolate is melted

and the mixture is well blended and smooth

If the glaze is too thin to use immediately, let

it cool for a minute or two If it thickens too

much as it cools, rewarm it for a few seconds

in the microwave or over a small pan of

simmering water

Gently whisk the pastry cream to smooth it to

the consistency of pudding Then, use one of

the following methods to fill the éclairs

Halve the shells and pipe or spoon in the

filling—Cut the cooled éclair shells in half

horizontally Fill a pastry bag fitted with a

round tip with pastry cream and pipe filling

into each bottom half Alternatively, simply

spoon in the filling Dip the top half of the

shell in the glaze, allowing the excess to drip

back into the bowl Place the glazed top on

the filled bottom

Keep the shells whole and pipe in the filling—

Use a sharp paring knife to make a small hole close to the bottom at both ends of each shell Fill a pastry bag fitted with a small round tip with pastry cream Starting at one end of the shell, pipe in the filling until it reaches the middle of the éclair You’ll be able to feel the weight of the filling going in; you can give the middle a gentle squeeze

to see if the cream has made it that far Now

do the same thing from the other end You should have an éclair that is completely filled with pastry cream Dip the top in the warm glaze, letting the excess drip back into the bowl

Using your chosen method, repeat to fill and glaze the remaining éclairs

Refrigerate to set the glaze, about 10 minutes, then serve Or, refrigerate, covered loosely with plastic wrap, for up to 1 day; the éclairs will taste best if you let them stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes before serving

MAKES ABOUT 20 ÉCLAIRS

This delicious cocoa-flavored filling is quick to make If you have more time and want something richer, you could fill these with Chocolate Pastry Cream (see page 87) instead If I’m in a festive mood, I might top these with good-quality chocolate sprinkles Valrhona makes some with a true chocolate flavor.

Preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C] Line two

baking sheets with parchment paper

Spoon the pâte à choux into a pastry bag

fitted with a plain ¾-in [2-cm] tip Holding

the tip at a 45-degree angle to the baking

sheet, pipe batons that are about ¾ in [2 cm]

wide and 4 in [10 cm] long, leaving 1 to 1½ in

[2.5 to 4 cm] of space between them

Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven

temperature to 375°F [190°C] (keep the oven

door open for 3 to 5 seconds to bring down

the oven temperature; if you’re baking two

sheets at once, switch their position in the

oven) and bake for another 15 minutes

Using a paring knife, prick each shell several

times close to the bottom along one side

Return the shells to the oven and bake for

another 10 minutes to dry out the eggy

insides Allow the shells to stand at room

temperature until they are cool to the touch

You can leave them on the baking sheet, or,

if you prefer, you can transfer them to a wire

cooling rack

TO MAKE THE WHIPPED CREAM: Place a

mix-In the chilled mixing bowl, with a mixer on high speed, whip the cream until soft peaks form Add the vanilla and the powdered- sugar mixture and continue to whip until stiff, smooth peaks form

Cut the cooled éclair shells in half horizontally Spoon the filling into each bottom half (see Note) Dip the top half in the glaze, allowing the excess to drip back into the bowl Place the glazed top on the filled bottom Repeat

to fill and glaze the remaining éclairs

Refrigerate to set the glaze, about 10 minutes, then serve Or, refrigerate, covered loosely with plastic wrap, for up to 1 day; the éclairs will taste best if you let them stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes before serving

MAKES ABOUT 20 ÉCLAIRS

NOTE Forcing whipped cream fillings through

a small pastry tip can cause them to lose some

of their volume and loft For that reason, when you’re using a whipped cream filling, it’s better

to cut the éclairs in half lengthwise and spoon in

Double Chocolate Éclairs

1 recipe Chocolate Glaze (see page 17)

mon cher éclair

MOCHA PASTRY CREAM

¼ tsp sea salt

3 egg yolks

or semisweet chocolate, finely chopped

1 recipe Pâte à Choux (page 13)

(see page 17)

These éclairs have a real espresso kick, and their two-bite size makes them great party food Of course,

you can make them full-size if you like

TO MAKE THE PASTRY CREAM: Place a

fine-mesh strainer over a clean bowl and set aside

In a small bowl, stir together the espresso

powder and vanilla until the espresso powder

is dissolved Set aside

In a medium saucepan over medium heat,

combine the milk and ¼ cup [50 g] of the

sugar and heat, stirring, until the sugar is

dissolved

In a second small bowl, stir together the

remaining ¼ cup [50 g] sugar, the cornstarch,

cocoa powder, and salt Whisk in the egg

yolks and enough of the milk mixture as

needed to make a smooth paste Set aside

When the milk mixture is steaming, whisk

about ½ cup [120 ml] of the milk mixture into

the egg mixture Then whisk the egg mixture

back into the milk (Use a flexible spatula to

scrape all of the egg mixture from the bowl.)

Cook gently over low to medium-low heat,

whisking continuously, for 4 to 6 minutes, or

until the mixture starts to thicken and bubbles

begin to break the surface Once bubbles

start to break the surface, cook for 1 minute

more (keep stirring!), and then remove the

pan from the heat Add the chocolate and

stir until melted and incorporated Stir in the espresso mixture

Using a flexible spatula or a wooden spoon, rub the pastry cream through the strainer into the reserved bowl Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pastry cream to keep a skin from forming Chill until cold, about 3 hours or up to 1 day

Preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C] Line two baking sheets with parchment paper

Spoon the pâte à choux into a pastry bag fitted with a plain ¾-in [2-cm] tip Holding the tip at a 45-degree angle to the baking sheet, pipe batons that are about ¾ in [2 cm] wide and 2 in [5 cm] long, leaving 1 to 1½ in [2.5 to

4 cm] of space between them

Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 375°F [190°C] (keep the oven door open for 3 to 5 seconds to bring down the oven temperature; if you’re baking two sheets at once, switch their position in the oven) and bake for another 15 minutes

Using a paring knife, prick each shell several times close to the bottom along one side

Return the shells to the oven and bake for

Mini Mocha Éclairs

another 10 minutes to dry out the eggy

insides Allow the shells to stand at room

temperature until they are cool to the touch

You can leave them on the baking sheet, or,

if you prefer, you can transfer them to a wire

cooling rack

Gently whisk the pastry cream to smooth it to

the consistency of pudding Then, use one of

the following methods to fill the éclairs

Halve the shells and pipe or spoon in the

filling—Cut the cooled éclair shells in half

horizontally Fill a pastry bag fitted with a

round tip with pastry cream and pipe filling

into each bottom half Alternatively, simply

spoon in the filling Dip the top half of the

shell in the glaze, allowing the excess to drip

back into the bowl Place the glazed top on

the filled bottom

Keep the shells whole and pipe in the filling—

Use a sharp paring knife to make a small hole

close to the bottom at both ends of each

shell Fill a pastry bag fitted with a small

round tip with pastry cream Starting at one

end of the shell, pipe in the filling until it

reaches the middle of the éclair You’ll be

you can give the middle a gentle squeeze

to see if the cream has made it that far Now

do the same thing from the other end You should have an éclair that is completely filled with pastry cream Dip the top in the warm glaze, letting the excess drip back into the bowl

Using your chosen method, repeat to fill and glaze the remaining éclairs

Refrigerate to set the glaze, about 10 minutes, then serve Or, refrigerate, covered loosely with plastic wrap, for up to 1 day; the éclairs will taste best if you let them stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes before serving

MAKES ABOUT 36 MINI ÉCLAIRS

1 Tbsp unsalted butter

(whipping) cream

¼ cup [30 g] finely chopped toasted hazelnuts (optional)

Nutella Éclairs

This simple, fluffy chocolate-hazelnut filling whips up easily and can be stored for up to a day in the

refrigerator Whisk it to thicken, if necessary, before filling your éclairs

Preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C] Line two

baking sheets with parchment paper

Spoon the pâte à choux into a pastry bag

fitted with a plain ¾-in [2-cm] tip Holding

the tip at a 45-degree angle to the baking

sheet, pipe batons that are about ¾ in [2 cm]

wide and 4 in [10 cm] long, leaving 1 to 1½ in

[2.5 to 4 cm] of space between them

Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven

temperature to 375°F [190°C] (keep the oven

door open for 3 to 5 seconds to bring down

the oven temperature; if you’re baking two

sheets at once, switch their position in the

oven) and bake for another 15 minutes

Using a paring knife, prick each shell several

times close to the bottom along one side

Return the shells to the oven and bake for

another 10 minutes to dry out the eggy

insides Allow the shells to stand at room

temperature until they are cool to the touch

You can leave them on the baking sheet, or,

if you prefer, you can transfer them to a wire

cooling rack

TO MAKE THE FILLING: Using a stand mixer

using a stand mixer, switch to a whisk ment now.) Whisk in the remaining cream until thick, firm peaks form Set aside

attach-TO MAKE THE GLAZE: In a shallow bowl that

is wide enough to dip an éclair, combine the Nutella, chocolate, and butter In a small saucepan over medium heat, heat the cream until it comes to a simmer Pour the hot cream over the chocolate mixture and let stand for

1 minute Whisk until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth

Cut the cooled éclair shells in half tally Spoon the filling into each bottom half (see Note, page 19) Dip the top half in the glaze, allowing the excess to drip back into the bowl Place the glazed top on the filled bottom Repeat to fill and glaze the remaining éclairs Sprinkle the chopped hazelnuts (if using) over the filled éclairs while the glaze

horizon-is still soft

Refrigerate to set the glaze, about 10 minutes, then serve Or, refrigerate, covered loosely with plastic wrap, for up to 1 day; the éclairs will taste best if you let them stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes before

mon cher éclair

TAHINI PASTRY CREAM

Tahini-Chocolate Éclairs

These éclairs hold a rich filling whose flavor is reminiscent of the Middle Eastern sesame paste candy halvah Chocolate and halvah together are a heady combination—like chocolate and peanut butter but with a subtle edge Stir the tahini well before measuring, as it tends to separate and the oil floats

to the top

TO MAKE THE PASTRY CREAM: Place a

fine-mesh strainer over a clean bowl and set aside

In a medium saucepan over medium heat,

combine the milk and ¼ cup [50 g] of the

brown sugar and heat, stirring, until the

sugar is dissolved

In a small bowl, stir together the remaining

¼ cup [50 g] brown sugar, the cornstarch,

and salt Whisk in the egg yolks to make a

smooth paste Set aside

When the milk mixture is steaming, whisk

about ½ cup [120 ml] of the milk mixture into

the egg mixture Then whisk the egg mixture

back into the milk (Use a flexible spatula to

scrape all of the egg mixture from the bowl.)

Cook gently over low to medium-low heat,

whisking continuously, for 4 to 6 minutes, or

until the mixture starts to thicken and bubbles

begin to break the surface Once bubbles

start to break the surface, cook for 1 minute

more (keep stirring!), and then remove the

pan from the heat Add the tahini and stir until

melted and incorporated Stir in the vanilla

Using a flexible spatula or a wooden spoon, rub the pastry cream through the strainer into the reserved bowl Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pastry cream to keep a skin from forming Chill until cold, about 3 hours or up to 1 day

Preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C] Line two baking sheets with parchment paper

Spoon the pâte à choux into a pastry bag fitted with a plain ¾-in [2-cm] tip Holding the tip at a 45-degree angle to the baking sheet, pipe batons that are about ¾ in [2 cm] wide and 4 in [10 cm] long, leaving 1 to 1½ in [2.5 to 4 cm] of space between them.Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 375°F [190°C] (keep the oven door open for 3 to 5 seconds to bring down the oven temperature; if you’re baking two sheets at once, switch their position in the oven) and bake for another 15 minutes

Using a paring knife, prick each shell several

times close to the bottom along one side

Return the shells to the oven and bake for

another 10 minutes to dry out the eggy

insides Allow the shells to stand at room

temperature until they are cool to the touch

You can leave them on the baking sheet, or,

if you prefer, you can transfer them to a wire

cooling rack

Gently whisk the pastry cream to smooth it to

the consistency of pudding Then, use one of

the following methods to fill the éclairs

Halve the shells and pipe or spoon in the

filling—Cut the cooled éclair shells in half

horizontally Fill a pastry bag fitted with a

round tip with pastry cream and pipe filling

into each bottom half Alternatively, simply

spoon in the filling Dip the top half of the

shell in the glaze, allowing the excess to drip

back into the bowl Place the glazed top on

the filled bottom

Keep the shells whole and pipe in the filling—

Use a sharp paring knife to make a small hole

close to the bottom at both ends of each

shell Fill a pastry bag fitted with a small

round tip with pastry cream Starting at one

end of the shell, pipe in the filling until it reaches the middle of the éclair You’ll be able to feel the weight of the filling going in; you can give the middle a gentle squeeze

to see if the cream has made it that far Now

do the same thing from the other end You should have an éclair that is completely filled with pastry cream Dip the top in the warm glaze, letting the excess drip back into the bowl

Using your chosen method, repeat to fill and glaze the remaining éclairs Sprinkle the chopped halvah (if using) over the filled éclairs while the glaze is still soft

Refrigerate to set the glaze, about 10 minutes, then serve Or, refrigerate, covered loosely with plastic wrap, for up to 1 day; the éclairs will taste best if you let them stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes before serving

MAKES ABOUT 20 ÉCLAIRS

Salted-Peanut Éclairs

These chocolate-glazed, peanut cream–filled éclairs don't taste like a peanut butter cup—they taste much better! Your peanut butter should be at room temperature and your cream should be well chilled for this recipe The cream cheese adds a little bit of stability to this light, fluffy filling

Preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C] Line two

baking sheets with parchment paper

Spoon the pâte à choux into a pastry bag

fitted with a plain ¾-in [2-cm] tip Holding

the tip at a 45-degree angle to the baking

sheet, pipe batons that are about ¾ in [2 cm]

wide and 4 in [10 cm] long, leaving 1 to 1½ in

[2.5 to 4 cm] of space between them

Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven

temperature to 375°F [190°C] (keep the oven

door open for 3 to 5 seconds to bring down

the oven temperature; if you’re baking two

sheets at once, switch their position in the

oven) and bake for another 15 minutes

Using a paring knife, prick each shell several

times close to the bottom along one side

Return the shells to the oven and bake for

another 10 minutes to dry out the eggy

insides Allow the shells to stand at room

temperature until they are cool to the touch

You can leave them on the baking sheet, or,

if you prefer, you can transfer them to a wire

cooling rack

TO MAKE THE FILLING: Using a stand mixer

butter, cream cheese, powdered sugar, vanilla, and salt on medium speed until smooth and creamy Scrape down the sides

of the bowl and beat in about ½ cup [120 ml]

of the cream until smooth (If using a stand mixer, switch to a whisk attachment now.) With the mixer on low speed, beat in the remaining cream until thick and stiff You can store the whipped filling, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 day (If you’re making the mixture ahead, whisk to thicken it slightly just before using.)

Cut the cooled éclair shells in half tally Spoon the filling into each bottom half (see Note, page 19) Dip the top half in the glaze, allowing the excess to drip back into the bowl Place the glazed top on the filled bottom Repeat to fill and glaze the remaining éclairs Sprinkle the chopped peanuts over the filled éclairs while the glaze is still soft.Refrigerate to set the glaze, about 10 minutes, then serve Or, refrigerate, covered loosely with plastic wrap, for up to 1 day; the éclairs will taste best if you let them stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes before

2 ⁄ 3 cup [80 g] powdered sugar

mon cher éclair

Butterscotch-Bourbon

Éclairs

The butterscotch pastry cream in these éclairs makes them serious comfort food Just don’t let the

heady, floral vanilla bean (or the good-quality bourbon) go to your head! If bourbon is not one of your

pantry staples, feel free to leave it out of the recipe—these are delicious without the bourbon, too

TO MAKE THE PASTRY CREAM: Place a

fine-mesh strainer over a clean bowl and set aside

In a medium saucepan over low to medium-

low heat, stir together the melted butter

and ½ cup [100 g] of the brown sugar until

the mixture is bubbling Carefully add the

bourbon (the mixture may bubble up and

splatter) and cook, whisking continuously, for

1 to 2 minutes, or until the mixture looks pale

and foamy Add the cream in a slow, steady

stream, whisking gently, until blended Whisk

in the milk

Cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise Using

the tip of a paring knife, scrape out the seeds

Reserve a small pinch of seeds for the glaze

and add the remaining seeds along with the

pod to the milk mixture Heat the mixture

over medium heat until it is steaming and

beginning to bubble around the edges,

whisking to dissolve any bits of caramelized

sugar on the bottom of the pan

In a small bowl, stir together the remaining

¼ cup [50 g] brown sugar, the cornstarch, and salt Whisk in the egg yolks to make a smooth paste Set aside

When the milk mixture is steaming, whisk about ½ cup [120 ml] of the milk mixture into the egg mixture Then whisk the egg mixture back into the milk (Use a flexible spatula to scrape all of the egg mixture from the bowl.) Cook gently over low to medium-low heat, whisking continuously, for 4 to 6 minutes, or until the mixture starts to thicken and bubbles begin to break the surface Once bubbles start to break the surface, cook for 1 minute more (keep stirring!), and then remove the pan from the heat

Using a flexible spatula or a wooden spoon, rub the pastry cream through the strainer into the reserved bowl (Discard the vanilla bean pod.) Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pastry cream

to keep a skin from forming Chill until cold, about 3 hours or up to 1 day

BUTTERSCOTCH PASTRY CREAM

1 Tbsp light corn syrup

sugar

Pinch of seeds scraped from 1 vanilla bean

4 to 5 tsp bourbon or water

Preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C] Line two

baking sheets with parchment paper

Spoon the pâte à choux into a pastry bag

fitted with a plain ¾-in [2-cm] tip Holding

the tip at a 45-degree angle to the baking

sheet, pipe batons that are about ¾ in [2 cm]

wide and 4 in [10 cm] long, leaving 1 to 1½ in

[2.5 to 4 cm] of space between them

Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven

temperature to 375°F [190°C] (keep the oven

door open for 3 to 5 seconds to bring down

the oven temperature; if you’re baking two

sheets at once, switch their position in the

oven) and bake for another 15 minutes

Using a paring knife, prick each shell several

times close to the bottom along one side

Return the shells to the oven and bake for

another 10 minutes to dry out the eggy

insides Allow the shells to stand at room

temperature until they are cool to the touch

You can leave them on the baking sheet, or,

if you prefer, you can transfer them to a wire

cooling rack

TO MAKE THE GLAZE: In a shallow bowl that

is wide enough to dip an éclair, whisk the

melted butter, corn syrup, powdered sugar,

and vanilla bean seeds until smooth Whisk

in the bourbon until you get a good glazing

consistency It should be fluid but thick

enough to coat the tops of the éclairs with a

thin opaque coating (If it’s too thick, stir in

bourbon, ½ tsp at a time, until it thins out

If it’s too thin, stir in a little more powdered

sugar.)

Gently whisk the pastry cream to smooth it to

the consistency of pudding Then, use one of

the following methods to fill the éclairs

Halve the shells and pipe or spoon in the filling—Cut the cooled éclair shells in half

horizontally Fill a pastry bag fitted with a round tip with pastry cream and pipe filling into each bottom half Alternatively, simply spoon in the filling Dip the top half of the shell in the glaze, allowing the excess to drip back into the bowl Place the glazed top on the filled bottom

Keep the shells whole and pipe in the filling—

Use a sharp paring knife to make a small hole close to the bottom at both ends of each shell Fill a pastry bag fitted with a small round tip with pastry cream Starting at one end of the shell, pipe in the filling until it reaches the middle of the éclair You’ll be able to feel the weight of the filling going in; you can give the middle a gentle squeeze

to see if the cream has made it that far Now

do the same thing from the other end You should have an éclair that is completely filled with pastry cream Dip the top in the warm glaze, letting the excess drip back into the bowl

Using your chosen method, repeat to fill and glaze the remaining éclairs

Refrigerate to set the glaze, about 10 minutes, then serve Or, refrigerate, covered loosely with plastic wrap, for up to 1 day; the éclairs will taste best if you let them stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes before serving

MAKES ABOUT 20 ÉCLAIRS

1 cup [200 g] crushed amaretti or almond meringue cookies

VANILLA GLAZE

¼ cup [55 g] unsalted butter, melted and warm

1 Tbsp light corn syrup

1 cup [120 g] powdered sugar

½ tsp vanilla extract

1 or 2 drops pink food coloring (see Note, page 49)

¼ cup [30 g] sliced almonds (optional)

These éclairs were inspired by the honey-almond nougat candy of Provence They have a light, airy

texture and a delicate strawberry-almond flavor that’s perfect for summer

Preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C] Line two

baking sheets with parchment paper

Spoon the pâte à choux into a pastry bag

fitted with a plain ¾-in [2-cm] tip Holding

the tip at a 45-degree angle to the baking

sheet, pipe batons that are about ¾ in [2 cm]

wide and 4 in [10 cm] long, leaving 1 to 1½ in

[2.5 to 4 cm] of space between them

Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven

temperature to 375°F [190°C] (keep the oven

door open for 3 to 5 seconds to bring down

the oven temperature; if you’re baking two

sheets at once, switch their position in the

oven) and bake for another 15 minutes

Using a paring knife, prick each shell several

times close to the bottom along one side

Return the shells to the oven and bake for

another 10 minutes to dry out the eggy

insides Allow the shells to stand at room

temperature until they are cool to the touch

You can leave them on the baking sheet, or,

if you prefer, you can transfer them to a wire

cooling rack

TO MAKE THE FILLING: Place a mixing bowl

in the freezer for a few minutes In a small bowl, stir together the jam, Amaretto, honey, and vanilla Set aside

In the chilled mixing bowl, with a mixer

on high speed, whip the cream until soft peaks form Slowly add the jam mixture and continue to whip until stiff, smooth peaks form Using a flexible spatula, gently fold in the crushed cookies Place the filling

in refrigerator while you make the glaze

TO MAKE THE GLAZE: In a shallow bowl

that is wide enough to dip an éclair, whisk the melted butter, corn syrup, powdered sugar, and vanilla until smooth Whisk in the water and food coloring until you get a good glazing consistency It should be fluid but thick enough to coat the tops of the éclairs with a thin opaque coating (If it’s too thick, stir in hot water, ½ tsp at a time, until

it thins out If it's too thin, stir in a little more powdered sugar.)

CONTINUED

Strawberry-Amaretto Éclairs

mon cher éclair

Cut the cooled éclair shells in half

horizon-tally Spoon the filling into each bottom half

(see Note, page 19) Dip the top half in the

glaze, allowing the excess to drip back into

the bowl Place the glazed top on the filled

bottom Repeat to fill and glaze the

remain-ing éclairs Sprinkle the sliced almonds (if

using) over the filled éclairs while the glaze

is still soft

Refrigerate to set the glaze, about 10 minutes, then serve Or, refrigerate, covered loosely with plastic wrap, for up to 1 day; the éclairs will taste best if you let them stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes before serving

MAKES ABOUT 20 ÉCLAIRS

½ tsp vanilla extract

(whipping) cream

RASPBERRY GLAZE

¼ cup [55 g] butter, melted and warm

1 Tbsp light corn syrup

This quick, fruity cream filling is the one to make when raspberries are ripe and juicy Unlike most other

éclairs, these can be served straight from the refrigerator

Preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C] Line two

baking sheets with parchment paper

Spoon the pâte à choux into a pastry bag

fitted with a plain ¾-in [2-cm] tip Holding

the tip at a 45-degree angle to the baking

sheet, pipe batons that are about ¾ in [2 cm]

wide and 4 in [10 cm] long, leaving 1 to 1½ in

[2.5 to 4 cm] of space between them

Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven

temperature to 375°F [190°C] (keep the oven

door open for a 3 to 5 seconds to bring down

the oven temperature; if you’re baking two

sheets at once, switch their position in the

oven) and bake for another 15 minutes

Using a paring knife, prick each shell several

times close to the bottom along one side

Return the shells to the oven and bake for

another 10 minutes to dry out the eggy

insides Allow the shells to stand at room

temperature until they are cool to the touch

You can leave them on the baking sheet, or,

if you prefer, you can transfer them to a wire

cooling rack

TO MAKE THE FILLING: In a medium bowl,

toss together the raspberries, lemon juice, and ¼ cup [50 g] of the granulated sugar

Mash the berries roughly with a fork and then set them aside for 15 minutes to release their juices

Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment

or a handheld mixer and a medium bowl, beat the mascarpone with the remaining

¼ cup [50 g] granulated sugar and the vanilla

on low speed until smooth Scrape down the sides of the bowl (If using a stand mixer, switch to a whisk attachment now.) With the mixer on low speed, beat in ¼ cup [60 ml] of the cream until smooth Increase the speed and beat in the remaining ½ cup [120 ml]

cream until stiff peaks form

Reserve about 2 Tbsp of the juice from the mashed raspberries and fold the remaining raspberry mixture into the cream mixture, leaving some streaks of pink Use immedi-ately, or cover and chill for up to 3 hours

CONTINUED

Raspberry Crush Éclairs

TO MAKE THE GLAZE: In a shallow bowl that

is wide enough to dip an éclair, whisk the

melted butter, corn syrup, and powdered

sugar until smooth Whisk in the raspberry

juice and food coloring (if using) until you

get a good glazing consistency It should be

fluid but thick enough to coat the tops of the

éclairs with a thin opaque coating (If it’s too

thick, stir in raspberry juice, ½ tsp at a time,

until it thins out If it's too thin, stir in a little

more powdered sugar.)

Cut the cooled éclair shells in half tally Spoon the filling into each bottom half (see Note, page 19) Dip the top half in the glaze, allowing the excess to drip back into the bowl Place the glazed top on the filled bottom Repeat to fill and glaze the remaining éclairs

horizon-Refrigerate to set the glaze, about 10 minutes, then serve Or, refrigerate, covered loosely with plastic wrap, for up to 1 day

MAKES ABOUT 20 ÉCLAIRS

light coconut milk

1 Tbsp fresh lime juice

1 Tbsp light corn syrup

1 cup [120 g] powdered sugar

4 to 5 Tbsp fresh lime juice

coloring (see Note, page 49)

1 drop yellow food coloring (see Note, page 49)

½ cup [15 g] sweetened shredded coconut

Coconut-Mango Éclairs

This yummy tropical filling is made with light coconut milk and mango purée Look for large, slightly

soft, fragrant mangoes that feel heavy and yield a little bit when pressed You’ll need about 2 large

mangoes to get 1 cup [240 ml] of purée

TO MAKE THE PASTRY CREAM: Place a

fine-mesh strainer over a clean bowl and set aside

In a medium saucepan over medium heat,

combine the mango purée, coconut milk,

lime juice, and ¼ cup [50 g] of the granulated

sugar and heat, stirring, until the sugar is

dissolved

In a small bowl, stir together the remaining

¼ cup [50 g] granulated sugar, the

corn-starch, and salt Whisk in the egg yolks to

make a smooth paste Set aside

When the coconut milk mixture is steaming,

whisk about ½ cup [120 ml] of the coconut

milk mixture into the egg mixture Then whisk

the egg mixture back into the milk (Use a

flexible spatula to scrape all of the egg

mix-ture from the bowl.) Cook gently over low to

medium-low heat, whisking continuously for

4 to 6 minutes, or until the mixture starts to

thicken and bubbles begin to slowly break

the surface Once bubbles start to break the

surface, cook for 1 minute more (keep stirring!),

and then remove the pan from the heat

Using a flexible spatula or a wooden spoon,

rub the pastry cream through the strainer into

the reserved bowl Place a piece of plastic

wrap directly on the surface of the pastry cream to keep a skin from forming Chill until cold, about 3 hours or up to 1 day

Preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C] Line two baking sheets with parchment paper

Spoon the pâte à choux into a pastry bag fitted with a plain ¾-in [2-cm] tip Holding the tip at a 45-degree angle to the baking sheet, pipe batons that are about ¾ in [2 cm]

wide and 4 in [10 cm] long, leaving 1 to 1½ in [2.5 to 4 cm] of space between them

Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 375°F [190°C] (keep the oven door open for 3 to 5 seconds to bring down the oven temperature; if you’re baking two sheets at once, switch their position in the oven) and bake for another 15 minutes

Using a paring knife, prick each shell several times close to the bottom along one side

Return the shells to the oven and bake for another 10 minutes to dry out the eggy insides Allow the shells to stand at room temperature until they are cool to the touch

You can leave them on the baking sheet, or,

if you prefer, you can transfer them to a wire cooling rack

TO MAKE THE GLAZE: In a shallow bowl that

is wide enough to dip an éclair, whisk the

melted butter, corn syrup, and powdered

sugar until smooth Whisk in the lime juice

and food colorings until you get a good

glaz-ing consistency It should be fluid but thick

enough to coat the tops of the éclairs with a

thin opaque coating (If it’s too thick, stir in

hot water, ½ tsp at a time, until it thins out

If it’s too thin, stir in a little more powdered

sugar.)

Gently whisk the pastry cream to smooth it to

the consistency of pudding Then, use one of

the following methods to fill the éclairs

Halve the shells and pipe or spoon in the

filling—Cut the cooled éclair shells in half

horizontally Fill a pastry bag fitted with a

round tip with pastry cream and pipe filling

into each bottom half Alternatively, simply

spoon in the filling Dip the top half of the

shell in the glaze, allowing the excess to drip

back into the bowl Place the glazed top on

the filled bottom

Keep the shells whole and pipe in the filling—

Use a sharp paring knife to make a small hole

close to the bottom at both ends of each

shell Fill a pastry bag fitted with a small

round tip with pastry cream Starting at one

end of the shell, pipe in the filling until it

reaches the middle of the éclair You’ll be

do the same thing from the other end You should have an éclair that is completely filled with pastry cream Dip the top in the warm glaze, letting the excess drip back into the bowl

Using your chosen method, repeat to fill and glaze the remaining éclairs Sprinkle the coconut over the filled éclairs while the glaze is still soft

Refrigerate to set the glaze, about 10 minutes, then serve Or, refrigerate, covered loosely with plastic wrap, for up to 1 day; the éclairs will taste best if you let them stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes before serving

MAKES ABOUT 20 ÉCLAIRS

NOTE If you don’t have a favorite way to cut the flesh from a mango, this is how I learned to

do it Cut off the top and bottom and stand the mango on one of its flat ends Using a sharp paring knife, remove the peel in strips Visualize the oblong, oval-shaped pit inside and carefully cut downward to remove the flesh Don’t cut too close to the pit, because that’s where the fibers are

Meyer lemon juice

butter, cut into pieces

2 ⁄ 3 cup [160 ml] heavy (whipping) cream

2 Tbsp powdered sugar

(page 13)

LEMON GLAZE

¼ cup [55 g] unsalted butter, melted and warm

1 Tbsp light corn syrup

sugar

4 to 5 tsp fresh Meyer lemon juice

1 drop yellow food coloring (see Note, page 49)

Meyer lemons are an aromatic lemon-orange hybrid with a thin peel and lots of juice They’re plentiful

in California backyards from mid-winter through early spring They’re less sour than other lemons, but

you can substitute regular lemon juice if you wish Taste the curd before you whip the cream; if it’s too

tangy, add an extra 1 Tbsp of powdered sugar to the whipped cream Candied lemon wedges are a fun

embellishment These éclairs can be served straight from the refrigerator

TO MAKE THE FILLING: Place a fine-mesh

strainer over a clean bowl and set aside

In a medium saucepan, whisk together the

eggs, egg yolks, granulated sugar, lemon

juice, and butter Cook over low to medium-

low heat, stirring continuously, for 1 to

2 min-utes or until the butter is melted Continue

stirring for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the mixture

thickens to the consistency of pudding to form

a curd Don’t let it come to a boil

Using a flexible spatula or a wooden spoon,

rub the lemon curd through the strainer into

the reserved bowl Place a piece of plastic

wrap directly on the surface of the curd to

keep a skin from forming Chill until cold,

about 3 hours or up to 1 day

In a medium bowl, with a handheld mixer or

a whisk, whip the cream until soft peaks form

Add the powdered sugar and continue to

whip until stiff but still creamy looking

Using a flexible spatula, fold about one-fourth

of the whipped cream into the lemon curd to

Preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C] Line two baking sheets with parchment paper

Spoon the pâte à choux into a pastry bag fitted with a plain ¾-in [2-cm] tip Holding the tip at a 45-degree angle to the baking sheet, pipe batons that are about ¾ in [2 cm]

wide and 4 in [10 cm] long, leaving 1 to 1½ in [2.5 to 4 cm] of space between them

Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 375°F [190°C] (keep the oven door open for 3 to 5 seconds to bring down the oven temperature; if you’re baking two sheets at once, switch their position in the oven) and bake for another 15 minutes

Using a paring knife, prick each shell several times close to the bottom along one side

Return the shells to the oven and bake for another 10 minutes to dry out the eggy insides Allow the shells to stand at room temperature until they are cool to the touch

You can leave them on the baking sheet, or,

if you prefer, you can transfer them to a wire

Meyer Lemon–Cream Éclairs

mon cher éclair

TO MAKE THE GLAZE: In a shallow bowl that

is wide enough to dip an éclair, whisk the

melted butter, corn syrup, and powdered

sugar until smooth Whisk in the lemon juice

and food coloring until you get a good

glaz-ing consistency It should be fluid but thick

enough to coat the tops of the éclairs with a

thin opaque coating (If it’s too thick, stir in

lemon juice, ½ tsp at a time, until it thins out

If it’s too thin, stir in a little more powdered

sugar.)

Cut the cooled shells in half horizontally Spoon the filling into each bottom half (see Note, page 19) Dip the top half in the glaze, allowing the excess to drip back into the bowl Place the glazed top on the filled bottom Repeat to fill and glaze the remaining éclairs.Refrigerate to set the glaze, about 10 minutes, then serve Or, refrigerate, covered loosely with plastic wrap, for up to 1 day

MAKES ABOUT 20 ÉCLAIRS