Marker efficiency - Point should be considered before Marker efficiency

Fabric spreading should be done by taking the guideline form marker length... • When pattern pieces are laid down on the layer fabric, the grain line should be parallel to the line of

Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir ID: 2010000400008

13th Batch (session 2009-2013) Department : Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com

Blog : www Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)

Southeast University

Department Of Textile Engineering I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh Prepared By :

Total Textile Process at a Glance

MARKER

DEFINITION

It is a thin paper which contains all

necessary pattern pieces for all

sizes for a particular style of

garments It gives special

instruction for cutting It can

be done both manually and

computerized method.

Figure :Marker

• In computerized method all

information’s are stored in the pre-fashioned data file and an operator helps the computer to make the best choice

• Marker width is taken according

to the fabric width Fabric

spreading should be done by

taking the guideline form marker length.

• Fabric width must be higher than marker width

(1/2”).

• Fabric length must be higher than marker length

(1”+1”).

• Length of cutting table should be considered.

• Plan of garments production should also be

considered.

• When pattern pieces are laid

down on the layer fabric, the

grain line should be parallel to the line of the warp in a woven fabric and Wales in knit fabric where pattern pieces are laid across the layers, the line is kept parallel to weft / course

• All the pattern pieces of a

garment should be along the

same direction when laid down

on asymmetric fabric.

CONSTRAINTS OF MARKER MAKING:

 Grain line:

All patterns must have to be aligned in relation

to the grain line Pattern pieces carries

the grain line should be parallel to the

warp or Wales When pattern pieces are

laid across the fabric, the grain line laid

parallel to the weft or course direction

 Symmetry or asymmetry of fabric:

The fabrics, which retain the same appearance

after turning it by 180° are symmetric

fabrics Asymmetrical fabrics are those

which show different appearance when

they are turned 180° The marker should

be planned in such a way that it is in

accordance with asymmetry of the fabric

All the pattern pieces of a garment should

be along the same direction when laid on

an asymmetric fabric

• Cutting quality:

In garments industries fabric is cut form

lay and spreading with accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric cutting Marker out line is used to cut the fabric Fabric

cutting is very important as if some thing is cut in wrong way, can not be rectified

Cutting quality ↑ Production ↑ Profit ↑

• Production planning :

Production planning must have to be

compatible with the marker plan

When an order is placed for a

quantity of garments normally

specifies a quantity of each size

and color If the sewing room

requires the cut work urgently the

marker planner makes two

markers –

1 Short marker

2 Long marker

Short marker – Less opportunities for

saving the wastage

Long marker – More opportunities for

saving the wastage

Long marker

Short marker

The marker planner measures his success by the efficiency of the marker plan The following formula is used to measure the efficiency:

Marker efficiency = (Area of the pattern in the marker plan / Total area of the marker plan)

*100 % Marker efficiency ↑ Fabric wastage ↓ Profit

FACTORS RELATED TO MARKER

EFFICIENCY:

• Marker planner:

Marker efficiency dependents on experience,

honesty, sincerity, trial and technological

knowledge The more, the number of

markers, the more is the possibility to get

higher efficiency

• Pattern engineering:

Marker efficiency can be increased by

changing the pattern according to the

rule Such as a big component can be

divided into two parts This will help to

save the fabric wastages

Symmetrical fabrics are those which are similar to all directions Marker

efficiency is good in those types of fabrics However, marker efficiency will

be less for asymmetrical fabrics.

• Marker making method :

We can generally make markers by two

methods They are manual and

computerized Computerized marker

is more efficient when it is done

interactively with the planner so

marker efficiency varies from method

to method Sometimes a skilled

operator can make more efficient marker than computer

• Marker width :

The more the fabric width, the easier to plan

or make marker which will increase the efficiency

• Style of garments :

There are some garments which have only

large patterns such as overcoat If there are less number of small

components, the marker will be less efficient

Marker efficiency increases according to the minimization of fabric wastage out of the marker

• Ends of ply losses :

Some allowances are needed in the of each pieces

of fabric during fabric spreading because of

limitation of utilized machines Usually 2" in

each end and on each ply 4 inch wastages are

happened

• Loss of fabric in roll :

Fabrics usually come in roll form in garments

industries There are the limitations of fabric

length in each roll Fabric spreading is done

according to marker length As a result some

wastages of fabrics are found at every roll Thus

we have to do splicing sometimes

• Selvedge loss:

Each fabric has two selvedge.Mostly we do not place the pattern components over the selvedges.Thus approximately 3% fabrics are wasted along width.If the fabric is very expensive and extensible,we can save some fabric by wasting 2% along width.

• Purches loss:

Fabric length is identified by fabric manufacturer and suppliers.Somtimes less fabric is wound than the exact amount in the roll so before purchasing the length should be measured and fabrics should be scoured only from the reputed manufacturer

Pattern pieces on marker paper

Drawn marker paper

We have visited ” NASSA GROUP ”

which is situated of Gazipur It is

well management garments

Every section of this garments is

very clean and secured Almost

6500 worker work this garments

and those people are also

facilited The executive manager

and the paying directors were

very helping and we have gain

our knowledge above on marker

efficiency We have got clear

concept from this visit that will be

very helpful for our future life

1 Yarn Manufacturing Technology