Definition of Marker Making

Marker Making Definition: precise arrangement of pattern pieces or process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces Points to be considered before marker making: •

Marker Making

 Definition:

precise arrangement of pattern pieces

or process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces

Points to be considered before

marker making:

• Fabric width must be higher than marker width (1/2 inch)

 Fabric length must be higher than marker length.

 Length of the cutting table.

Marker

Marker Making

 Marker Efficiency:

the percentage of the total

fabric that is actually used

in garment parts

Area of pattern in the marker

Marker Efficiency =

-X 100% Total area of the marker plan

• Size of the garments:

Smaller and larger garment sizes ↓ ↓ Marker Marker

Efficiency

Medium garment sizes ↑ Marker Efficiency

• Numbers of sizes in a style:

Fewer and higher numbers of sizes in a style ↓ ↓ Marker Efficiency

Plotter

Marker efficiency can be increased

by changing pattern design of

particular parts of the garments

• Fabric characteristics:

Usually symmetrical fabric ↑ Marker Efficiency

Marker Making

• Marker making method:

Computerized method Marker ↑

Computerized method Marker ↑

Efficiency

Manual method Marker Efficiency ↓

Manual method Marker Efficiency ↓

• Marker width:

↑

↑ marker width M.E and easier marker width M.E and easier ↑ ↑ marker plan

Methods of marker making

 A Manual method.

In this process, marker can be made in two ways

a By using full size pattern:

-full size pattern pieces on marker paper

or

-directly on the top ply of the fabric in a

spread

b By using miniaturized pattern:

-full size pattern pieces are reduced to

1/5 of its original size by using pantograph -made by plastic sheet or thick board paper

-Marker planning is done by using those

miniaturized patterns

-reproduced full size using the mini-marker as

a reference

Methods of marker making

 Area Covered by pattern measured by planimeter to get Marker efficiency.

 higher marker efficiency as control

over the marker is better than the full size pattern

 rapidly being replaced by

computerized method

Pantograph

Features of manual marker making

 time consuming and require a great deal of space

 errors and inconsistencies that may occur in grain variation, poor line definition,

placement and alignment of pieces and slip

of the pieces

 Accuracy of a manually made marker

depends on the skill of the individual who

laid out the marker and traced it

Methods of marker making

B computerized marker making

 very accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for pattern manipulation, marker efficiency and

shortest response time

 Production patterns may be developed on the

computer or digitized or scanned in to the computer

 parameters for markers are entered in to the

computer from cutting orders - style numbers, size distribution and fabric width

 Protective devices are built in to the programs to

ensure the grain alignment and prevent overlapping

of pieces

 Automatic marker making may be used to determine yardage requirements and fabric costs for designs prior to line adoption

Advantages of computerized method

 Increases in material efficiency with

subsequent decreases in material waste,

 Time and labor savings in making markers;

 Improvements in overall marker quality;

 Avoidance of backlogs during peak periods; and

 Fast, precise cost proposals for clients.

Disadvantages of computerized method:

 Initial investment is high.

 Skilled operator is required

Modes of marker

A nap-either-way: symmetric, non directional fabrics,

considering only grain line

B nap-one-way: asymmetrical and directional fabrics,

all pattern pieces be placed on a marker in only one direction

C nap-up-and-down: some directional fabrics

all the pattern pieces of one size to be placed in

one direction and another size placed in the

opposite direction

D group: ‘end to end’ or ‘side to side’ shade variation,

pattern pieces of a size of garments are laid

together in accordance to the shade of the fabric

Constraints of Marker making:

garment is depending on the matching

of grain line To maintain grain line is one of the biggest constraints to

achieve higher marker efficiency

attention required to set pattern pieces

on the asymmetrical fabric, such as

pile fabric, special print etc.

from check or stripe fabric requires

mirror image (matching check or stripe

in adjacent two parts of the garment)

Constraints of Marker making:

d Cutting Quality: Marker should be

made carefully so that cutting blade can move easily in the lay

e Production Planning: production planning

is a constraint of marker making as

numbers of pieces of

different sizes are not exactly proportionate

Fabric wastage outside marker

 Ends of ply losses: For the extensibility of the fabric and limitation of cutting

machines, 2 cm allowances is required in

each end of the each ply.

 Loss of fabric ends: during preparation of

the fabric lay, the last or end remains of the fabric roll are separated by cutting

Fabric wastage outside marker

 Selvedge losses: Each fabric has two

selvedges along width The amount of cut

out is considered 3% (approximately) along width

 Purchase loss: Less fabric may wound on

roll than identified length

Methods of Drawing a Marker

 1 Marking directly on the fabric

a Drawing by Chalk or pencil:

mark directly onto the fabric using pipe clay or wax

not allow copying least accurate method Not applicable method for pile

or woolen fabric

Methods of Drawing a Marker

 B Paint Spray: fine jets of paint are

sprayed over the patterns that have been

laid on the fabric, leaving an outline of the patterns when they are removed

More fabric is required to allow gaps for paint.

Paint can migrate under the pattern edges

Pattern sizes grow as layers of paint build up The machine must be cleaned every day

Methods of Drawing a Marker

pieces are precisely arranged on to the marker paper and draw the outline of the patterns by using pencil This

method is widely used in the industry

screen to produce a marker

and the range of the pattern pieces are shown on top

Methods of Drawing a Marker

 3 Computerized Drawing:

– These pieces can be rotated, reversed and

moved into place

– The computer can calculate marker efficiency – The completed marker is then drawn using a

linked digital plotter

– These systems are extremely quick and

accurate and an unlimited quantity of markers can be produced and/or reproduced

Methods of Drawing a Marker

 4 Photographic System: patterns pieces

are set onto a light sensitive paper passing through ultra-violet light and revealed by

using ammonia vapor This method is quick and clean

Methods of Duplicating a Marker:

 a Carbon duplicating: Carbon paper in

between two marker paper

capital and material costs

layer

difficult, labour intensive process

Methods of Duplicating a Marker:

 b Spirit duplicating: working procedure is same as Office duplicating machine/Xerox machine

size of the machine

copy set on the machine improperly

Methods of Duplicating a Marker:

 c Photographic method: With the

photographic method, the original marker is set onto a light sensitive paper using ultra- violet light and revealed by using ammonia vapor This method is quick and clean and produces unlimited numbers of duplications

Methods of Duplicating a Marker:

 d Perforated method: obsolete technique that involves punching a series of

perforation around the marker,

placing it on the fabric and lightly

dusting with chalk It can be used

many times