Seams And Stitching Problems And Causes

Different types of Seams, Seam Problems & their Solutions By Apparel United... Introduction to Seams  A seam can be defined as : the application of a series of stitches or stitch typ

Different types of Seams, Seam

Problems & their Solutions

By Apparel

United

Introduction to Seams

 A seam can be defined as : the application of a series of

stitches or stitch types to one or several layers of material.

Seams are described as :

 A seam is load bearing and should be similar in physical

properties to the material being sewn.

Flat Seams

In these seams, sometimes called Butt

Seams, two fabric edges, flat or folded,

are brought together and oversewn

with a zig-zag lockstitch, chainstitch or

covering stitch (Class 600)

Application:

The purpose is to produce a join where

no extra thickness of fabric can be

tolerated at the seam, as in underwear

or in foundation garments

Superimposed Seams

These generally start with two or

superimposed over each other and joined near an edge, with one or more rows of stitches There are various types of seams within the SS class

Application:

Superimposed seams is used to create neat load bearing seams for lingerie, shirts, etc

Lapped Seams

• Two or more plies of material are

lapped (i.e with edges overlapped,

plain, or folded) and joined with one or

more rows of stitches

Application:

Lapped seams is commonly used for

rainwear

Lap Felled Seams

• The Lap Felled type, involves only one stitching operation - a strong seam with fabric edges protected from fraying

Application:

•Commonly used for making up jeans or similar garments

Bound Seams

These are formed by folding a binding strip

over the edge of the plies of material and

joining both edges of the binding to the

material with one or more rows of stitching

Application:

This produces a neat edge on a seam

exposed to view or to wear

Decorative Seams

A series of stitches along a straight or curved line or following an ornamental design, on a single ply of material

More complex types include various forms of piping, producing a raised line along the fabric surface

Application:

This type of seam is generally used for decorative purpose

Edge Finishing Seams

Finishing the edge of a single ply of material

by folding it or covering it with a stitch

The simplest of these operations is Serging,

in which a cut edge of a single ply is

reinforced by overedge stitching to neaten

and prevent fraying Includes other popular

methods of producing a neat edge like

hemming and Blind Stitch hemming

Application:

The main purpose of this type of seam is to

produce a neat edge

Some common seam problems,

related stitch problem

& their solutions

Skipped Stitches

Causes Solutions

Staggered Stitches

Causes Solutions

Unbalanced or Variable Stitches

Solutions Causes

Variable Stitch Density

Solutions Causes

Poor fabric feed control Increase presser foot pressureChange to a more positive feed mechanism

Seam Grin

 When two pieces of fabric are pulled at right angles to the

seam, a gap is revealed between the two pieces of fabric

revealing the thread in this gap

 Corrective actions

 Increase stitching tensions

 Use a higher stitch rating

Seam Slippage

A fabric related issue.

 Happens mainly in this types of fabric :

 fabrics with low no of warp & weft yarns.

 The fabric on either side of the seam

distorts as the fabric yarns slide away

resulting in a permanent gap.

 Corrective Actions

 Increase seam allowance

 Use a higher stitch density

 Opt for a lapped fell seam

Tension Pucker

 Caused by high thread tension during sewing

 More pronounced when synthetic threads are

used

 These threads on account of high stretch

properties elongate more during sewing

 After sewing the threads recover from the

stretched state pulling the fabric with it

Remedy:

Thread tensions have to be kept as

low as possible

Feed Pucker

 Encountered when sewing very fine fabrics

 The plies of fabric tend to slip over each other

resulting in uneven feed leading to pucker

Remedy :

 Opting for advanced types of feed

systems like compound or unison feed

 Puller feed is more cost effective

Shrinkage Pucker

 Wash pucker - during the wash process the thread in the

seam shrinks, pulling the fabric with it More so when using

cotton threads

 Ironing pucker - normally happens when synthetic threads are

used The heat destabilizes the molecular structure of the

thread causing it to contract

Remedy

 Choosing threads with low shrinkage properties

Fabric Flagging

 A machine related issue

 the throat plate aperture enlarges due to wear & tear

 while sewing the needle pushes the fabric through the

aperture before penetrating the fabric

 this can also happen when the needle size (thickness)

is changed and if the throat plate is not changed

accordingly.

regular intervals after checking for wear & tear

accordance with the needle size even

if there are no signs of wear & tear.

THANK YOU

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