Seams and stitch classification

SEAM CONSTRUCTION– Categorized by the British Standards Institution BS 3870 PART II: 1991, also ISO 4916:1991 The Stitched seams are divided into eight classes:Class 1 -Plain seam & Fren

© SOFT Student Handouts,

By, Sunil Talekar, Faculty, SOFT-Pune

Properties of good seam are,

¥ Smooth fabric joints

¥ No Missed or Uneven stitches

¥ No damage to the material being sewn

¥ Achievement of strength, elasticity, Durability, security and comfort

¥ Comfortable while garment is in use

What is Seam?

A seam is a joint of two pieces of fabric in producing a three -dimensional shape of a garment.

SEAM CONSTRUCTION– Categorized by the British Standards Institution (BS 3870 PART II: 1991, also ISO 4916:1991) The Stitched seams are divided into eight classes:

Class 1 -Plain seam & French seam (SI Seam) Class 2 -Welt seam or Lapped seam

Class 3 -Bound seam Class 4 -Channel seam or flat seam Class 5 -Ornamental seam

Class 6 -Turned hem or edge neatening Class 7 -Edge stitched seam

Class 8 -Enclosed seam

SEAMS DESIGNATION

Each stitched seam is designed numerically by five digits:

0.00.00 refers to the CLASS, 1-8;

0.00.00 refers to the material configuration,

01 to 99;

0.00.00 refers to needle penetrations, material configurations, 01-99.

• Formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of component over

the other, these seams are produced with a minimum of two pieces of component.

• Each component is limited on the same end

PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAMClass 1

* In this category of seams in which two or more plies of fabric are overlaid, one on top of the other with raw edges aligned and sewn together at a designated distance from the raw edge, with one or more rows of stitching.

* Produce a single or two step operation

* most common for apparel production

PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM-Class 1

PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM-Class 1

* Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of component

* One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the other end The limited edges of these two components are put

in opposite directions

Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam

•In this category of seams in which two or more plies of fabric are overlapped with the raw edges exposed (for fabrics resistant to raveling) or the seam allowance is folded under and stitched with one or more rows of stitching.

* Used for: main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls Fabrics that will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish

Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam

Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam

Constructed by binding the component edge with another narrow component The seam produced with minimum of two pieces of component

One component is limited on one end and the other is limited

on both ends.

Class 3 Bound seam

* In this category of seams in which the raw edges of the seam

allowance of one ore more plies of fabric, are covered with a bias binding and stitched with one ore more rows of stitching.

* Used for : finishing necklines, sleeves hems, inside waistbands of trousers and pants, finishing seams on unlined jackets and coats, adding interest as a design or decorative detail, finishing raw edges, continuing the motif design of lace.

Class 3 Bound seam

Class 3 Bound seam

Two pieces of fabric are laid flat with their edges closing each other without overlapping Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces

of component

Both components are limited on one end but they are put opposition

to each other on the same level.

Class 4 Flat or channel seam

* In this category of seams in which the raw edges of the fabric plies are abutted or just slightly overlapped and joined together with

stitching that covers the joint Flat seams do not contain seam

allowances, reducing fabric usage but increasing thread quantity.

* Used for: close fitting garments where the seam allowance may put pressure on the body, high-stretch fabrics, athletic apparel, shape wear, undergarments, lingerie, thermal underwear, swimwear,

sweatshirts with side panels or with raglan sleeves, eliminating bulk

at seams, seaming pelts of fur

Class 4 Flat or channel seam

Class 4 Flat or channel seam

A seam class for decorative sewing on garments

Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component, with unlimited edges on both ends.

Class 5 Ornamental Seam

* In this category of seams that add ornamentation to one or more plies of fabric by creating straight or curved lines or a designated design.

* Used for: adding a design detail, cording, piping, tucking, welting, box or inverted pleating, decorative stitching

Class 5 Ornamental Seam

Class 5 Ornamental Seam

Stitching work made on the fabric edges for neatening

Seams are produced with one piece of component This seam has one limited edge on one end.

Class 6 Turned hem or Edge neatening

•In this category of seam constructed with one or two plies of fabric used to

finish the edge of a garment or item There are three finishing types within the classification

first, secures a folded edge to the shell fabric by stitching, either on the face or back.

-second, stitching is used at the edge or to cover the raw edges, and may or may not be folded.

-third, applies a binding on a single ply of a seam allowance to finish raw edges.

Class 6 Turned hem or Edge neatening

Class 6 Turned hem or Edge neatening

A narrow piece is sewn to the edge of a garment part

Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component One component

is limited on one end, and the other narrow one is limited on both ends.

Class 7 Edge Stitched Seam

Class 7 Edge Stitched Seam

Only one piece of component involved in construction the seam, stitches are

applied on its edge/s.

Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component with a limited edge

on two ends

Class 8 Enclosed Seam

Class 8 Enclosed Seam

What is stitch?

British standard 3870, defines stitch as: One units of conformation

resulting from one or more strands or loops of thread intralooping,

Interlooping or passing into or through the fabric or material.

Intralooping: is the passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed

by the same thread.

Interlooping: is the passing of a loop of thread through another loop

formed by a different thread.

What is Stitch type?

A series of recurring stitches of one configuration is defined as a stitch class or type.

100 Class Stitches

Single Thread Chainstitches Using One Needle Thread and One Blind Looper

101 Class One Thread Basting, or light construction

103 Class One Thread Blindstitch for Hemming

104 Class One Thread Blindstitch for Hemming Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

202 Class One Thread Basting, Tacking or Repairs

205 Class One Thread Pick Stitch - Topstitching

200 Class Stitches

Single Thread Hand Sewn Stitches Using One Needle Thread

Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

301 Class Two Threads Seaming Multiple Plies

304 Class Two Thread Zig-Zag Stitch; a stretch lockstitch

306 Class Two Thread Blind Stitch

315 Class Two Threads "Three Step Zig-Zag; a stretch

lockstitch with more stretch

Two or more Thread Lock Stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and One Bobbin Hook Thread

Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

401 Class Two Threads

Seaming Multiple Plies with moderate

stretch

404 Class Two Threads Topstitching or Seaming with stretch

406 Class Three Threads "Bottom Cover Stitch; a (greater)

501 Class One Thread One Needle Overedge stitch for Serging

/ "Blanket Stitch"

502 Class Two Thread One Needle Overedge stitch for Serging

503 Class Two Thread

Overedge stitch for Serging with Crossover on Edge of Fabric

500 Class Stitches

Multi-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s)

Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

504 Class Three Thread Overedge stitch for Serging and Light

Seaming

512 Class Four Thread Mock Safety Stitch for Seaming with

wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits

c 514 Class Four Thread

Overedge Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits

Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

500 Class Stitches

Multi-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s)

515 Class Four Thread

True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good Stretch for Wovens and Knits

516 Class Five Thread True Safety Stitch for Seaming with

Good Stretch for Wovens and Knits

Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

500 Class Stitches

Multi-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s)

602 Class Four Thread CoverStitch or Seaming Knits

605 Class Five Thread CoverStitch or Butt-Seams

607 Class Six Thread Wide CoverStitch or Butt-Seams

600 Class Stitches

Multi-Thread Coverstitches

Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

701 Class One Thread Lockstitch Tacking

700 Class Stitches

Single Thread Lockstitch Using One Needle Thread and Rewinding Bobbin

Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

Thank you