Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric dimension & properties

Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric dimension & properties... Presentation on Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single je

Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric dimension &

properties

Presentation

on

Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric dimension

& properties

Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir ID: 2010000400008

13th Batch (session 2009-2013) Department : Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com

Blog : www Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)

Southeast University

Department Of Textile Engineering

Prepared By :

From the analyses of variance, it is seen that the effects of stitch length on the dimension and properties of the Plain single fabrics inspected are highly significant.

Sample fabric production

Fabric Type : Plain Single Jersey (Lycra & without Lycra)

Yarn Type : Cotton (combed)

Yarn Count : 26 Ne, 70D

Stitch Length : 2.76mm, 2.97mm, 3.15mm

Machine Parameters

Brand name of m/c : Jiunn long (Taiwan)

Machine Diameter : 26 inch

No of Feeder : 78

Needle Gauge : 24

No of Needle : 1968T

Machine speed : 26 rpm

Different tests & calculation

Tests on Grey Sample Fabric

 Spirality Test

 Pilling Test

 GSM Calculation

 CPI, WPI & Fabric Width Calculation

 Dimensional Stability Test

 Fabric Thickness Test

Tests on Dyed Sample Fabric

 Color fastness to Rubbing

 Color Fastness to Wash

 Color Fastness to Perspiration

Spirality can be defined as a fabric condition resulting when the knitted wales and courses are angularly displaced from that ideal perpendicular angle

In other words, Spirality" arises from twist stress in the constituent’s yarns of plain fabric, causing all loops to distort and throwing the fabric wales and courses into an angular relationship other than 90 degree

Impact of fabric stitch length on spirality

Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra

Stitch Length(mm) No of Feeders Spirality %

2.7600000000000002 2.9699999999999998 3.15 0

0.01 0.02 0.03 0.04 0.05 0.06 0.07 0.08 0.09 0.1

6.15%

8.10%

9.50%

Stitch Length spirality %

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra

Stitch Length(mm) No of Feeders Spirality %

2.7600000000000002 2.9699999999999998 3.15 0

0.01 0.01 0.02 0.02 0.03 0.03 0.04 0.04

0.02

0.03

0.04

Stitch Length spirality %

Piling

Pilling is a surface defect of textiles caused by wear, and is considered unsightly It happens when washing and wearing of fabrics causes loose fibres to begin to push out from the surface of the cloth, and, over time, abrasion causes the fibres to develop into small spherical bundles, anchored to the surface of the fabric by protruding fibres that haven't broken

Fig: Pilling of Fabric

Impact of fabric stitch length on pilling

Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra

Stitch Length(mm) Pilling Scale Grade (out of 5)

2.7600000000000002 2.9699999999999998 3.15 0

0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 4 4.5

Stitch Length(mm) Pilling Scale Grade (out of 5)

Graph: Graphical relationships between stitch length and pilling (widthwise)

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra

Stitch Length (mm) Pilling Scale Grade (out of 5)

4.5

Stitch Length Pilling Scale Grade

Graph: Graphical relationships between stitch length and pilling (lengthwise)

Stitch Length (mm) Pilling Scale Grade (out of 5)

Graph: Graphical relationships between stitch length and pilling (Widthwise)

The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important for a textile engineer for understanding and production of fabric ‘GSM’ means

‘Gram per square meter’ that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter By this we can compare the fabrics in unit area which is heavier and which is lighter

There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric

Course per inch X Stitch length X 39.37 X 39.37 X Tex

Impact of fabric stitch length on fabric GSM

Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra & with Lycra

Stitch Length (mm)

Stitch Length GSM

Courses per inch

Courses per inch mean how many numbers of courses are present in one inch It is also very important for calculation of knitted fabric GSM

Wales per inch

Wales per inch means how many numbers of wales are present in one inch, it is very important for calculation of knitted fabric GSM and fabric properties

Calculation of Fabric Width

We calculated the fabric width by using following formula –

Total no of Wales/Total no of needle

Fabric Width (open width) = -

WPI

Impact of fabric stitch length on cpi, wpi & fabric width

10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80

Stitch Length CPI,WPI&F.W

Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra

56.2

59.6

CPI WPI F.W

Stitch Length CPI,WPI& F.W

Dimensional Stability

This is a test method for measuring the changes in fabric dimension when subjected to changing humidity conditions The dimensional stability relating properties, namely relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion, are measured Relaxation shrinkage is defined as the percentage change in dry dimensions of fabric measured after 30-minute relaxation in water at room temperature Hygral expansion is defined as the percentage change in dimensions of relaxed fabric from wet condition to dry condition

Impact of Fabric stitch length on Fabric Dimensional Stability

Stitch Length (mm) Lengthwise Shrinkage

(%)

Widthwise Shrinkage (%)

Stitch Length Shrinkage Percentage

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra

Stitch Length (mm) Lengthwise

Shrinkage (%)

Widthwise Shrinkage (%)

0 0.02 0.04 0.06 0.08 0.1 0.12 0.14 0.16 0.18 0.2

Stitch Length Shrinkage Percentage

Fabric Thickness

Fabric thickness is defined as perpendicular distance through the fabric, which determines the dimension between the upper and lower side of the fabric

Fig: Fabric Thickness Tester

Impact of Fabric stitch length on Fabric Thickness

Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra

Stitch Length (mm) Fabric Thickness (mm)

2.7600000000000002 2.9699999999999998 3.15 0

0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra

Stitch Length (mm) Fabric Thickness (mm)

0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7

Impact of Fabric stitch length on Color Fastness to Rubbing

Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale

Grade( Dry)

Grey Scale Grade( Wet)

Stitch Length Grey Scale Grade

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra

Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale Grade( Dry) Grey Scale Grade( Wet)

0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 4 4.5

Impact of Fabric stitch length on Color the Fastness to Wash

Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra

Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale Grade

0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 4 4.5

5

Stitch Length Grey Scale Grade

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra

Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale Grade

0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 4 4.5

5

Stitch Length Grey Scale Grade

Impact of Fabric stitch length on Color the Fastness to

Perspiration

Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra

Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale Grade

Stitch Length Grey Scale Grade

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra

Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale Grade

4

3.5

2

2.5 3.5

2

3.5

Alkaline Acid

Stitch Length Grey Scale Grade

The contributions and incessant efforts of all the group members to complete the project report are highly appreciative The challenging environment in 21st century demands that textile education should be meaningful and responsive to develop a mechanism to produce dynamic and technically competitive human resource in order to meet the challenges of the global world Right and effective strategies needs to be adopted for affecting quality improvements in textile education thereby making it relevant and useful not only for the sustained growth and development of the textile institutes but also in serving the societies in a progressive way

1 Yarn Manufacturing Technology