Download free ebooks at bookboon.com5 A visit to Tallinn www.tourism.tallinn.ee www.visitestonia.com Tallinn is unique in Europe because of its medieval city centre.. The old Town Ha
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© 2009 Stig Albeck & Ventus Publishing ApS
Translation: Frances østerfelt
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ISBN 978-87-7061-411-5
2nd edition
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A visit to Tallinn
www.tourism.tallinn.ee
www.visitestonia.com
Tallinn is unique in Europe because of its medieval
city centre It has a special atmosphere created by
the many buildings dating back to the 15th and 16th
centuries when commerce brought great treasure to
the city
The old Town Hall, St Olai Church, which was once
the tallest building in the world, and the more than
2-kilometre-long preserved city walls are just some
of Tallinn’s many attractions The modern Tallinn,
with its parks, walking streets and shopping centres
lies just next to the old centre, and the short
distances can make an ordinary walk feel like
time-travel
During the centuries, many different peoples have
ruled in the Tallinn area, and there is a lot to see
from different eras The castles of the Teutonic
Order and magnificent Russian Baroque buildings
are found both in the city and along the coast of the
Finnish Bay
Have a Nice Trip!
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6
Historical Outline
Tallinn was mentioned first time in connection with
the Danish fleet’s landing near Lyndanisse June
1219 Led by King Valdemar II, Denmark won a
battle at Tallinn On this occasion, it is said, the
Danish flag, displaying a white cross on a red
background, fell from the sky and signalled a
reversal of fortune in favour of the Danes The
Danes built a fortress on Toompea Hill, and
Andreas Sunesen, Bishop of Lund, became the first
regent of Tallinn
In 1248, Erik IV gave Tallinn Lübeck city rights,
which helped forge the city’s commercial links with
the German cities on the Baltic Later in the 13th
century, Tallinn became a member of the Hanseatic
League
Tallinn’s attainment of city rights led to the
establishment of a local government in the small city,
which was strategically located in relation to the
trade between the German Hanse towns and Russia
In 1346, the Danish king sold Tallinn and the
northern part of Estonia to the Teutonic Knights,
whose governor moved in at Toompea Hill as
representative of the Livonian part of the Order
However, the local town government still continued
in its function It consisted of some of Tallinn’s
wealthiest people, including many merchants
During the following centuries, Tallinn continued to
progress The city had become a transit destination,
which created jobs and economic growth The
Danes destroyed one of Tallinn’s competitors, Visby
in Gothland, in 1361, which meant that Tallinn
became even more dominant in the area
The increasing population consisted mainly of people arriving from rural areas availing themselves
of job opportunities in workshops and with the many merchants With the addition of many new institutional buildings, such as the Town Hall and guild houses, the original 13th century town, grew beyond the old wall, which protected only a small area around the town hall square, and a new wall was built Following a large fire in 1433, a new wave
of expansion was initiated
The 15th century was Tallinn’s pinnacle as Hanse Town Henceforth it gradually lost its significance
During the Livonian war in 1558-1583, the Baltic Powers fought over the Estonian territory Tallinn became Swedish in 1561, and later defended itself against Russian invasion in 1557-1571 and in 1577 Sweden made Estonia a dominion with Tallinn as capital The city progressed quickly; a grammar school was established and books were printed in Estonian
Tallinn’s old part of town had survived the Livonian War with minimal damages, but the plague of 1602-
1603 and the great fire on Toompea Hill in 1684 slowed down the city’s development
The Great Nordic War in 1700-1721 was hard on Tallinn There was hunger and epidemics; in 1708-
1710 alone the population decreased from 10,000 to 2,000
In 1710, the Russian Army conquered the city, but the town government and rights were maintained until the 19th century, when a more comprehensive integration into the Russian empire began
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Russia was investing heavily in Tallinn Peter the
Great expanded the city’s harbour in 1714-1722, and
a shipyard was built In the 19th century, factories
were built in the city, and in 1870 the Baltic railroad
connecting Tallinn with St Petersburg was
established Tallinn bloomed economically and
culturally Several new theatres were built, and the
population increased from 44,000 to 160,000
between 1881 and 1917
The Estonian push for self-determination began
with the election of the first Estonian mayor of
Tallinn in 1906 At the beginning of 1918, when the
Russian Revolution had shaken the political
structure in Tallinn, Estonia declared its
independence, but was invaded by Germany shortly
after Following World War I, the Republic of
Estonia was established with Tallinn as capital
Lack of access to the Russian market had negative consequences for Tallinn’s economy Financial growth did not resume until the end of the 1930s, but in 1940 Estonia became the Estonian Soviet Socialist Republic In the period 1941-1944 Tallinn was occupied by Germany, and many buildings were destroyed in the bombardments, but the old part of town escaped relatively unscathed
Until Estonia’s independence in 1991, the country was relatively wealthy Tallinn experienced an industrial boom when it was part of the Soviet Union, and the population increased to ca 500,000 The 1980 Moscow Olympics sailing competitions were held in the city During the last couple of decades, investment has increased again, and new glass and steel constructions have been built Large areas have been developed, with business centres, shops, hotels and other constructions creating a strong contrast to the Old City, which has remained almost unchanged since the Middle Ages
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Tour 1: Tallinn
1 Town Hall square/Raekoja Plats
Raekoja Plats
Town Hall is the centre of the lower part of the Old
Town The cosy Town Hall Square is teeming with
life and, in the summer season, lots of pavement
cafés The Square has traditionally been Tallinn’s
market place, and it was also there that public
executions were performed
1b Town Hall Apothecary/Raeapteek
Raekoja Plats 11
Across from Tallinn’s Town Hall lies the Town-Hall
Apothecary, which is one of the oldest apothecaries
in the world still being used for its original purpose
It was mentioned for the first time in 1422
2 Church of the Holy Ghost/Püha Vaimu Kirik
Pühavaimu 2 www.eelk.ee/tallinna.puhavaimu
This church is the only surviving original church of its kind It was finished in its pure style in the 1360s; only the spire is of a later date
Much of the interior has been preserved, including Berndt Notke’s famous altar from 1483 and several Gothic woodcarvings The Church Bell is from 1433, which makes it the oldest church bell in Estonia, and the Tower Clock was the first public clock in Tallinn
In 1531, the Church of the Holy Ghost became part
of Estonian history when the first sermon in the Estonian language was held there
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3 Estonian Historical Museum – The
Great Guild Halll/Eesti Ajaloomuuseum
– Suurgildi hoone
Pikk 17
www.eam.ee
The Great Guild Hall was the second-largest secular
building in medieval Tallinn It was built in the years
1407-1417 by the influential merchant guild, the
Great Guild, whose members for centuries were
part of Tallinn’s political and financial elite The
house is preserved in its original state both inside
and outside, and today it houses the Estonian
Historical Museum, which covers Estonian history
from the earliest times to present-day
4 Knuds Gilde/Kanuti Gild
Pikk 20 www.saal.ee
Knud’s Guild was originally a religious society, which developed into a German guild for fine crafts Knud’s Guild was wealthy and it bought the two neighbouring houses as well In 1863-1864, the present house was built in English Tudor style
5 House of Blackheads/Mustpeade Maja
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Pikk 26
www.mustpeademaja.ee
The Blackheads was a brotherhood which prepared
its members for entrance into Tallinn’s wealthy and
influential merchant guild, the Great Guild House
of Blackheads is from the 14th century, but it has
since been rebuilt The facade is in Renaissance style
from 1597 with a beautiful door from 1640
6 St Nicholas’ Orthodox Church/Püha
Nikolai Imetegija kirik (ȄȓȞȘȜȐȪ
ǿȐȭȠȖȠȓșȭ ǻȖȘȜșȎȭ ȅȡȒȜȠȐȜȞȤȎ)
Vene 24
www.stnicolas.narod.ru
This Russian Orthodox Church is located in the
Russian district The name of the street is Vene,
which means “Russian Street” As early as the 12th
century, there was a Russian market place in this
street St Nicholas’ Orthodox Church was founded
in the 15th century, and the present Neo-Classicistic
building was built in 1822-1827 The church has
several altars and a beautiful iconostasis
7 Tallinn City Museum Linnamuuseum
Vene 17 www.linnamuuseum.ee
Tallinn City Museum is located in a medieval grocer’s shop It depicts Tallinn’s history from the 13th century to present-day
The museum has some interesting permanent exhibitions on Tallinn in the Middle Ages, with many preserved artefacts There are also exhibitions focusing on themes from later centuries The City museum is an excellent background introduction to present-day Tallinn
8.The Roman-Catholic Church/Rooma Katoliku Kirik
Vene 18 www.katoliku.ee
This church is also called Church of Peter and Paul
It was built as a Catholic church in 1844 on the spot where the 13th century Dominican Monastery’s dining hall had been The building style of the church is unique in Tallinn
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11
9 Dominican Monastery Museum/Dominiiklaste Kloostri Muuseum
Vene 16 www.kloostri.ee www.mauritanum.edu.ee
Tallinn Dominican Monastery is the oldest in the city It was founded in 1246, which also makes it Tallinn’s oldest preserved building The east wing, Institutum Mauritanum, (Müürivahe 33), still has its original interior There is a library, a dormitory and a chapel
After the Reformation in 1525, the monastery was closed and the buildings gradually decayed and became ruinous Today, the area is a museum, and the old walls and the cloister Garth are some of the most atmospheric places in the city
10 Katarina (St Catherine) Passage/Katariina Käik
Vene 12/Müürivahe
The atmospheric medieval Katarina Passage goes through a mixed residential area with craft workshops located in buildings from the 15th-17th centuries In the season artists can be seen at work there
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11 The Viru Gate Tallinn/Viru Värav
Viru
The Viru Gate was the east entrance in Tallinn’s
defence wall The two beautiful towers flanking the
gate on each side of the road were built in
1345-1355 The gate is a good example of the fortress-like
entrance often found in medieval city walls
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Kino Sõprus opened in 1955 and the style is typical
of that period: a grand construction with a row of
columns at the entrance The cinema was meant to
be seen as a cultural palace for the people
13 St Michael’s Church/Rootsi-Mihkli
Kirik
Rüütsi 9
www.stmikael.ee
In the years 1526-1531, Tallinn’s Poorhouse was
built After the Great Nordic War, the building was
given to the city’s Swedish parishioners, who
converted it into a church in 1733 During Estonia’s
time as a Soviet Republic, the church was used as a
sports facility, but it was later restored and reopened
as a Swedish church in 2002
14 St Nikolai (St Nicholas)
Church/Niguliste Kirik
Niguliste 3 www.ekm.ee
Sankt Nikolai Church from the 13th century is one
of Tallinn’s large medieval buildings It was built by German merchants from Gothland The church was saved from being destroyed during the Reformation because the priest blocked the doors so the mob couldn’t get in The High Altar was made in Lübeck
in 1482, and it is adorned by images of St Nikolai
The church building was destroyed during World War II, and again by a fire in 1982, but on both occasions it was beautifully restored Today, it houses a part of the Estonian Museum of Art (Eesti Kunstimuuseum) The museum exhibits church architecture, and because of the excellent acoustics, concerts are regularly held there
15 Adamson-Eric Ericu-muuseum
Museum/Adamson-Lühike Jalg 3 www.ekm.ee
Adamson-Eric was one of Estonia’s greatest and most versatile 20th century artists His primary art form was painting, but he also designed jewellery and furniture
The Museum building is a medieval house that has been rebuilt several times During the centuries, it has been used as workshop and as an ordinary residence The museum itself was founded in 1984 when several works by Adamson-Eric were donated
by his widow
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16 The Danish King’s Garden/Taani
Kuninga Aed
Lühike jalg 9A
According to legend, the army of the Danish King
was losing a battle in Estonia on 15 June 1219, when
suddenly a red flag with a white cross fell from the
sky, and the fortune of war turned The Danes won
the battle, and the flag became the Danish national
flag, named “the Dannebrog”
The Danish King’s Garden celebrates the event, said
to have occurred in Tallinn, every year on June 15
17 Tower of the Virgin/Neitsitorn
Lühike jalg 9A
The square Tower of the Virgin was built at the end
of the 14th century as part of the city wall It has been destroyed and rebuilt several times, and today there is a nice view of Tallinn’s centre and old part
of town from the café
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18 Kiek in de Kök
Kommandandi 2
www.linnamuuseum.ee
Kiek in de Kök was the strongest artillery tower in
Northern Europe The 38-metre-tall tower was built
in the 15th century; it has a diameter of 17 metres
and the walls are 4 metres thick From the tower it
was possible to peer into the kitchens of the
neighbouring buildings, hence its name, which
means “peep into the kitchen”
The tower was damaged in the 16th century, but it
was rebuilt and used as a powder tower until the
20th century Today the tower has been restored as
it was in the 17th century, with cannon balls still
lodged in the walls Inside there is an exhibition on
Tallinn’s history and the major military events
between the 13th and 19th centuries
19 Alexander Nevskij Cathedral/Aleksander Nevski Katedraal (ǮșȓȘȟȎțȒȞȜ-ǻȓȐȟȘȖȗ ȟȜȏȜȞ)
Lossi Plats 10 www.hot.ee/nsobor
The Russian Orthodox Cathedral, (RussianǞǻǮǻǽ ǍǸDzǷǾaǺDZǽǭ ǚDzǯǾǷǻǰǻ), from the year 1900, is Tallinn’s largest cupola cathedral It is located on Toompea Hill, which makes it very prominent in the city skyline
The Cathedral was built under the Russian Tsar by the architect Mikhail Preobrazhenski from the nearby Russian city of St Petersburg The richly decorated church has some very exquisite Icons and stained-glass windows
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The Cathedral is named in honour of St Alexander
Nevskij, who won the Battle of Lake Peipus, on the
border of Estonia and Russia, 5 April 1242 The
lake’s current name is
Peipsi järv/ǤȀDZǾǷǻDz ǻǴDzǽǻ The battle was between
the Catholic crusaders of the Teutonic Order and
Orthodox Christians from Novgorod
20 Toompea Castle/Toompea Loss
Lossi Plats 1
The Danes built Toompea Castle in 1219 on the
foundations of an Estonian fortress from the 10th
century It is located 50 metres above the city, at the
top of Toompea Hill
The castle was originally named Taani Linn,
“Danish Castle”, from which the city name, Tallinn,
is derived
In 1773, the original castle was converted into a
residential castle in Rococo style The Parliament
building by the castle was built in 1923 in
Late-Baroque style
The 48-metre-tall tower, Long Hermann/Pikk
Hermann, was the first of the castle’s towers to be
used as prison The other towers are all still standing,
except Stur den Kerl, which was torn down to make
room for the Rococo castle
21 The Dome Church/Toomkirik
Toom-Kooli 6 www.eelk.ee/tallinna.toom
Tallinn’s Dome Church is Estonia’s most important Protestant church, and it is one of the city’ three medieval churches still in use Its full name is The Cathedral of St Mary the Virgin/Neitsi Maarja Piiskoplik Toomkirik
The Danes built the original wooden church in 1219, and ten years later they started building the stone church in the same spot In 1433, the church was expanded to become a Gothic cathedral
Inside the church there are coats of arms, memorial tablets and gravestones dating from the 13th to 18th centuries Several famous people lie buried there, such as Admiral Adam-Johann von Krusenstern
During a fire in 1684, the Dome Church was destroyed, including the cultural treasures it held The church was rebuilt, and the Baroque tower was added in 1779
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The building was designed by Georg Winterhalter with heavy Renaissance inspiration, and it was built
in 1845-1848 The house has had several occupants
in addition to the Knighthood The Land Parliament used it for a period, and between 1920-1940 it housed Estonia’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs
Between 1948-1992, the building functioned as the Estonian National Library, and following that the Art Museum of Estonia was briefly located there
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The architect Johann Caspahr Mohr designed the house in 1784, and it was originally meant as a courthouse The manor is named in honour of the Swedish Count Jakob Pontus Stenbock, who initiated the construction Stenbock House was taken over by the state in 1924, and after a renovation it became home of the Estonian State Chancellery on 6 September 2000
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This modern museum depicts Tallinn’s and
Estonia’s history from 1939 to 1991 from various
perspectives, such as the daily lives of the people
This is the period when the country was occupied
by Germany, and later became part of the Soviet
Union
25 Kaarli Church/Kaarli kirik
Toompuiestee 4
www.eelk.ee/tallinna.kaarli
Kaarli Church is of Swedish origin There had been a
chapel in this location since the 16th century, but it
was the Swedes who build the first church there, and
they named it in honour of the Swedish King Karl XI
The present church is of a later date It was built in
the 1860s and is today regarded as one of the finest
19th century churches in Estonia
26 National Library of Estonia /Eesti Rahvusraamatukogu
Tõnismägi www.nlib.ee
The National Library of Estonia is one of Tallinn’s most monumental buildings Construction began at the end of the Soviet era, and it is a splendid example of this era’s grand, prestige-laden constructions of public institutions
The National Library, established in 1918, is Estonia’s largest library The present building is from 1985-1993, designed by the modernistic architect Raine Karp, who was behind many of Tallinn’s largest construction works in the 1970s and 1980s
27 Russian Theatre/Vene Teater (ǾȡȟȟȘȖȗ ȠȓȎȠȞ)
Vabaduse väljak 5 www.veneteater.ee
Tallinn’s Russian Theatre has performances in Russian It is famous for having the most beautiful interior of any theatre in the Baltic area The walls and ceiling in the audience hall are magnificently decorated