Tạp chí du lịch Wilderness 2014 March

Tap chi du lich Wilderness 2014 March

NZ $9.95 Aust $9.95 INCL GST

www.wildernessmag.co.nz

know more, do more, live more

MARCH 2014

Visit three unique stone huts

ESTIMATE THE DISTANCE TO YOUR DESTINATION Great Barrier Island mapped in 3D

FREE ALPINE DR GET YOUR LOWE

YFLO BASELAYER!

(See p54 for details)

NAMING RIGHTS

Why getting a mountain named after

yourself is a matter of life or death

THREE SUMMER DAYS IN GLORIOUS KAHURANGI NATIONAL PARK

LARGE-CAP ACITY PACKS FOR LONG-HAUL TRIPS

NEW ZEALAND'S

MOST SCARY

YOU’D OPTED FOR A GREAT WALK

Celebrate the founding of the iconic

pass by hiking its newest track

Lowe Alpine’s legendary DryFlo® technology offers the highest level of breathability and odour control in an easy to maintain, long life baselayer.

Wicks for cool comfort Traps air for winter warmth Dries super-fast

Is anti-microbial It’s the ideal year round performance baselayer.

Available now from Lowe Alpine Specialist stores throughout NZ

Auckland: Living Simply, Outdoor Action, Dwights Outdoors, Waikato: Trek & Travel, Equip Outdoors, BOP: Whakatane Great Outdoors, Taupo: Outdoor

Attitude, Taranaki: Kiwi Outdoors, Wellington: Dwights Outdoors, Motueka: Coppins Outdoors, Nelson: Rollos Outdoors, Christchurch: Complete Outdoors,

Wanaka: MT Outdoors, Alexandra: Trenz Outdoors, Queenstown: Small Planet, Invercargill: Southern Adventure

You’ve gone too far, you can’t go back

and you’re frozen to the spot… what

do you do?

38 Winning photos

Take a look at the best photos submitted

to the Wilderness photo competition

46$UWKXU·V3DVV

(Z[OL[OHUUP]LYZHY`VM[OLÄYZ[JYVZZ-ing of Arthur’s Pass approaches,

Wilder-ness looks back on its history and the new

walking track opening this month

50 Naming rights

How prominent outdoor features are

named and why getting a mountain named

after yourself is a matter of life or death

Brush up your outdoor skills: safely cross HYP]LY[HRLHULJVMYPLUKS`SVVZ[VWÄ_your pack strap with supplejack and clean your sleeping bag on a budget

News and events

14 Five reasons to get outside

this month

14 Wilderness Word

Enter our crossword competition

to win great prizes

16 :LOG3HRSOH

Meet the alpine gran trying to climb all

New Zealand’s 3000m peaks

26 Off the Beaten Track

Making friends and new discoveries on Kahurangi’s Wangapeka tops

FROM THE EDITOR

CONTRIBUTORS Richard Davies, Mark Watson,

Geoff Spearpoint, John Wilson, Samantha Mythven,

Vanessa James, Neil Silverwood, Paul Hersey, Rob

Brown, Colin Hancock, Dennis Radermacher

COLUMNISTS Pat Barrett, Mick Abbott, Pam Hutton,

Hazel Phillips, Jo Stilwell

LIFESTYLE PUBLISHING ALSO PUB LISH ES

NZ TRAIL RUNNER, THE NZ OUTSIDE SERIES,

Persons wishing to make a contribution to Wilderness should retain a copy of any material sent to the magazine Contributions sent to Wilderness will be deemed as giving the magazine licence to publish the contributed material in the magazine and its associated publications in various formats including print, digital and website versions The editor reserves the right to alter or edit contributed material to suit the style and requirements of the magazine’s various versions The opinions expressed by contributors or columnists are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher

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ed i tors or pub lish er of Wilderness mag a zine and, whilst all efforts will be made to ensure ac cu ra cy, no re spon si bil i ty will be taken by the ed i tors or pub lish er for in ac cu rate

in for ma tion ISSN 1177-0171 / ISSN 2230-6250

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Lifestyle Publishing Ltd, 51a Riverlea Ave, Pakuranga, Auck land PO Box 251566, Pakuranga, Auckland

2140 Ph (09)570-2658, Fax (09)570-2684 david@lifestylepublishing.co.nz

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www.wildernessmag.co.nz

2012 MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR

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- Sean Boswell, e-mail

James Ross responds: My comments

are only misleading if 1080 concentrations

in bait had increased whilst bait application rates had decreased As it stands, less carrot bait applied per hectare with 0.08 per cent

1080 concentration means less 1080 active

in the environment Additionally, less cereal bait applied per hectare with either 0.15 per cent or 0.08 per cent 1080 concentration means less 1080 active in the environment

My point is that research-driven reductions

in bait sowing rates means we are now using much less 1080 carrot and cereal bait, WKXVHQDEOLQJVLJQLÀFDQWUHGXFWLRQVLQFRVWV

1080 residues and non-target risks It is now common industry practice to apply less than 5kg per hectare of 1080 bait This is a major reduction when compared with old bait sow- ing application rates Researchers are now investigating new GPS-guided ‘cluster’ sowing techniques that still achieve excellent possum kills whilst applying less than 1kg of 1080 bait per hectare

THANKS VERY MUCHIRUWKHEHVW

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- Penny Wright, North Canterbury

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- Carolyn Tow, e-mail

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magazine’s editors However, within lished legal and moral imperatives, we try to publish all letters sent to the edi- tor, irrespective of the writer’s views

estab David Hall, publisher

WHO IS ETHNIC?

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- Min Lo, e-mail

PR WALK?

I TYPICALLY READ Wilderness from

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- Chris Eames, e-mail

- Matthew was hosted by Kaipara to Kaipara Experience, however the emphasis

of the story was purely his own - AH

PIGEON POST

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YOUR

SEND YOUR PIX

Get your ‘Last weekend’ photo published here and you’ll receive an original Spork courtesy of www.ampro.co.nz Head to www.wildernessmag.co.nz and search ‘last weekend’ for full submission criteria

What did you get up

to last weekend?

Geoff Wayatt reviewed travel options down the Tasman Glacier

Marceu and Olwen Shulte Leite spent Christmas

on the Kepler Track

Ethan Deuchars and his dad climbed some falls

Join us

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when you’re on the move.

Trampers heading to

the Dart Valley can

now walk the entire

track after a huge

landslide threatened to keep it

out of action

The slip at Sandy Bluff, 10km

north of the southern end of the

track, has blocked the path of

the Dart River, forming a lake in

Dredge Flats The lake is around

4km long and 20m deep

For almost a month, the track

was blocked, but DOC got to

work building a new one on the

true right of the river, avoiding

the slip altogether

Now trampers can walk the

entire track once more, but the

The summer’s beech mast is HMGXIH XS PIEH XS ER I\TPSWMSR SJ

pre-WXSEXW ERH YT XS  QMPPMSR I\XVE

rats later in the year The last time

a beech mast took place, in 2000, Marlborough’s entire population of mohua/yellowhead was wiped out

This time, DOC is determined

to protect New Zealand’s rare native species against a similar fate

Conservation minister Nick Smith has announced that $21 mil-lion has been set aside so 1080 can be dropped over areas with high risk populations, should it be needed The money will come from (3'´WI\MWXMRKFYHKIX

DOC spokesman Herb

Christo-'21·7/(7·65(3($77+(MOHUA

DISASTER, SAYS DOC

phers said the department has no choice but to prioritise this threat

“We’re not in a position to ask for I\XVE JYRHMRK EX XLI QSQIRX ERH

we will have to defer some other projects while we focus on this

“Taking action is imperative We lost a local population of mohua last time and if we continue with

‘business as usual’ then local cies could diminish.”

spe-DOC’s Director General Lou Sanson says doing nothing isn’t

an option: “We’re concerned that SYVI\MWXMRKXVETERHKVSYRHFEWIHnetworks will get overwhelmed if predator numbers rise rapidly Our best, and fastest, option for protec-tion over large tracts of rugged bush is using biodegradable 1080

±;MXLSYXTVSXIGXMSRJSVI\EQTPIOM[MEVII\TIGXIHXSHMWETTIEVJVSQthe wild within two human genera-tions — we need to act to give our REXMZIWTIGMIWE½KLXMRKGLERGI²

WALKSHORTS

The huge lake caused

by the Dart landslip

hours, as opposed to

three-and-a-half hours previously

DOC also warned the new track will be impassable after heavy rain because it crosses several streams

The department aims to improve the quality of the track over the

coming winter months

Around 2000 trampers walk the Rees/Dart Track, in Mt Aspir-ing National Park, each year and a further 3000 take day walks along the tracks

11

Those who have recently climbed New Zealand’s highest

sum-mit will be grumpy to learn their feat was 30m less impressive

than they thought it was

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thought

The old height was measured after the huge rock avalanche in

Decem-ber 1991, but since then the ice cap at the summit has shrunk

Dr Pascal Sirguey, the project leader for the research, says global

warm-ing is probably not responsible for this “By carefully studywarm-ing photos taken

after the collapse, it appears that there was still a relatively thick ice cap,

which was most likely out of balance with the new shape of the summit

39th in the world’s most prominent peaks (measured from the base of the

actual mountain to its summit), slipping behind Costa Rica’s Cerro

Chir-ripó and Indonesia’s Mt Rinjani

AORAKI/MT COOK NOT AS HIGH

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GPS receivers near the summit of Aoraki/Mt Cook accurately

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Wilderness Weekly – by Friday,

DEPUTY EDITOR MATTHEW PIKE REVIEWED

THIS PACK IN DECEMBER’S ISSUE OF WILDERNESS,

NOW WE HAVE ONE TO GIVE AWAY.

WIN a $299 Tatonka Pyrox 45

reviewer and columnist Paul Hersey has been given a second chance to

climb Anidesha Chuli (White

Wave) in the Himalaya

,IVWI]´W½VWXEXXIQTX[MXLLMW

wife Shelley was scuppered by

the 2011 Christchurch

earth-quake, which ruined their home

ERHPIJXXLIQMREXIRYSYW½RER-cial situation The couple had the

heart-breaking job of informing

XLI VIWX SJ XLI I\TIHMXMSR XLEX

they wouldn’t be joining them

But now they have a second

GLERGIXSLEZIEKSEXXLIQ

peak with climbing buddy John

Price – a challenge that has just

become more feasible thanks

to a grant from The North Face

and Australian Geographic Outdoor

magazine

The grant consists of $8000

cash and $2000 worth of gear,

which Hersey says will swing

things in their favour

±%R I\TIHMXMSR XS XLI

,MQE-PE]EW MW EP[E]W I\TIRWMZI² LI

said “Gear, logistics, support

at base camp – it all adds up A

grant of this size helps hugely –

it improves our chances of success and tips the balance on our side a little bit more.”

-X´PP FI XLI ½VWX XMQI EPP XLVII

climbers have come together for ERI\TIHMXMSRFYX,IVWI]FIPMIZIW

the team dynamics are perfect for the venture

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April 4 where they’ll have more than seven weeks to complete the chal-

VMIRGI ERH WGVIIR XLIMV ½PQ EX XLI

PIRKI8LI]TPERXSZMHISXLII\TI-New Zealand Mountain Film Festival later this year in order to inspire others to attempt similar adventures

The previous attempt, from which Paul and Shelley had pulled out, had to be abandoned prior to reaching the summit but members SJXLEXI\TIHMXMSRLEZILIPTIH4EYP

and the team plan for the trip

“They’ve helped hugely,” said Hersey “With hindsight we can analyse what happened and change plans and logistics accordingly

“The mountain’s beautiful and there’s a lot of Kiwi history XLIVI%RI\TIHMXMSRMRXLIWattempted its neighbour Jannu and mentioned how spectacular

it looked – it’s incredible it’s still unclimbed!”

&$,51·67+(5( JUST NOT WHERE

WE SAID

Stop! If you’re planning

a visit to Mt Ionia in

Mt Aspiring National Park to see the his-toric Charlie Douglas Cairn (See More, January 2013) XEOI½ZI

The cairn isn’t on the slopes

of Mt Ionia at all But it can be found at the head of Clarke Creek, which can be reached

on a walk up the Arawhata River to Grassy Flat The cairn

is one of two that was set up

as a baseline so that Gerhard Mueller and Charlie Douglas could survey towards Mt Ionia

13

DOC has been hard

at work restoring a

popular tramping and

mountain bike track

decimated by snow and gale force

winds

;LEVJIHEPI8VEGOMR3\JSVH*SV-est Park, Canterbury, is regarded

as a great introduction to New

Zealand’s backcountry, as well as

an enjoyably challenging mountain

bike ride

But it suffered the double

whammy of heavy snow last winter

and severe winds in the spring

The result was a track littered

with fallen trees, rough stream

crossings and big chunks missing

from the trail

This summer, DOC rangers with

the help of chainsaws and a small

digger, have brought the track back

to pre-snow standard and have

even improved it in some places

Jim Henderson, the ranger who

directed the operation, said they

had to be careful not to make the

track too easy

“Normally, when we build a new track or improve an old one we try

to make it as smooth as possible,”

he said “But we knew we needed

to keep the features that make it feel like a back country track with natural roots and rocks

“The digger helped us ably and there was some quite dan-gerous chainsaw work that needed

immeasur-to be done The combination of snow and gales caused the worst damage we’d seen to the track for a HIGEHI¯MX[EWMRELSVVM½GWXEXI²There’s still some work to do on the northern side of the track, but from the south up to Wharfedale Hut the track is now clear and the stream crossings improved so bik-ers can ride through them

“It’s a great tramping track,” said Henderson “The gradient’s nice – there aren’t many bad hills – and there are several climbs you can do JVSQMXMRGPYHMRK1X3\JSVH[LMGL

makes a great day walk.”

DECIMATED TRACK RESTORED

1. Large coarse fern found in bush

(7)

5. Unwanted visitors that destroy

environment like rabbits in NZ, eg

11. Moved gently and carefully in tight

spot between rocks, eg (5)

12. Less elevated sections in mountain

ranges used as routes (6)

14. Grass-like plants growing in

23. Small natural stream (5)

24. Group of trees growing together

Hidden Solution: South Island wilderness high spot (5,8)

January's Hidden Solution: Pest control

TRAMP-OF THE MANAWATU WALKING FESTIVAL AND A BUS WILL TAKE WALKERS TO AND FROM PALMERSTON NORTH

CONTACT DAVE:

 

JOIN NEW PLYMOUTH DISTRICT COUNCIL AND DOC STAFF FOR A TRIP

TO WHITECLIFFS RESERVE THERE’LL BE A BUS TAKING WALKERS TO AND FROM THE RESERVE AND THE WALK PROMISES VALLEY AND COASTLINE VIEWS FROM THE RIDGELINE TRACK CONTACT NPDC: (06) 759 6060.

A GREAT OPPORTUNITY TO SEE THIS UNIQUE, LARGELY TREE- LESS LANDSCAPE CONTACT SUE: (03) 544 9599.

Mountains Safety Council Survival Pack $20

Essential survival items for the outdoors

in one convenient, lightweight and shower-proof zip-lock bag The pack includes an MSC-branded high quality safety whistle, pack liner, pocket survival bag and safety information

www.mountainsafety.org.nz

prepare for a safe trip.

Follow the 5 simple rules of Outdoor Safety Code and make sure you tell someone your plans

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alarm if you haven’t returned

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Camping is life.

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From the car park it’s an easy meander

to Aspiring Hut, on to Pearl Flat via grassy

Liverpool Hut, Mt Aspiring National Park MODERATE

Little red shed

and requires caution in the upper section LIWKHUH¶VVQRZDERXWDVLWGURSVDZD\

DEUXSWO\LQSODFHV0DWVRIGUDFRSK\OOXP

and shimmery tussock welcome you to the tops though and the view, especially WR0WV$YDODQFKHDQG5RE5R\RSSRVLWH

the hut, are amazing

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WAYPOINTS

5RE5R\3HDNP PDNHVDVWXQQLQJbackdrop to Liverpool Hut, perched high above the Matukituki Valley

See More STONE HUTS

Built by rabbiter Alex Shute and E Smith

in 1920, Shutes Hut stands on a terrace among trees about 20min walk from the Taruarau River Just why the pair used stone, when there was timber nearby, remains unknown Mortar and sand had

to be lugged some distance and the small creek nearby could not have yielded enough stones, so the hut builders had their work cut out Alex Shute was a rab-biter for Poporangi Station, which then ran sheep on the nearby tops of the Ruahine 5DQJH'LIÀFXOW\RIWKHWHUUDLQWKHODFNRIfeed, and the rabbits made it a marginal operation at best and eventually the sheep were withdrawn Shutes Hut is one of the few tangible relics from this Ruahine graz-ing era

*65:,9=(;0657(92

This shelter lies on the Te Araroa Trail, in Bush Stream Stone huts have existed here since the 1880s, when the area was part of Mesopotamia Station The current hut, originally built in 1939, features a large stone chimney and one stone wall, but the rest was destroyed by an avalanche in

1967 and since replaced with corrugated iron Because of the avalanche risk, DOC recommends trampers use nearby Royal Hut during spring and winter

5(;065(37(92

Aspiring Hut was built from stone simply because the New Zealand Alpine Club wanted an aesthetically pleasing, locally-sourced material for their main climbing base in the Matukituki Valley The club spent three years, and immense effort, constructing the large but elegant hut, which was opened in 1949 Ed Hillary visited it, poet James K Baxter wrote in it, and artist John Drawbridge sketched in it

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Shutes Hut, Ruahine Forest Park

Stone Hut,

Te Kahui Kaupeka Conservation Park

Shutes Hut in Ruahine Forest Park WAYPOINTS

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New Zealand’s scariest tramps

:RUGVE\6KDXQ%DUQHWW*HRII6SHDUSRLQW

Richard Davies and Mark Watson

Trampers traversing the scary

23

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MARK W ATSON

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The Broken Axe Pinnacles is an essential Tararua experience

WAYPOINTS

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to the Matukituki Your reward is FIMRK EQSRK WSQI SJ XLI ½RIWX

tramping terrain in the country, with peaks like Taurus, Pickel-haube and Mt Twilight above

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Dickie Ridge – not for the faint-hearted

Descending the rocky chute that is Gifford Gap

OFF THE

2QDQDPELWLRXVWRSVWULSLQ.DKXUDQJL1DWLRQDO3DUNPat Barrett makes new

IULHQGVDQGQHZGLVFRYHULHV

WANGAPEKA TOPS Wandering the

www.wildernessmag.co.nz 27

www.wildernessmag.co.nz 27

Tim Hayward on the Arthur Range

Heat shimmers over the

river bed of the

Wan-gapeka as Tim

Hay-ward and I walk the

final kilometres to Chummies

Track under a flawless blue sky

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Designed by Kiwis for Kiwis • Available from a stockist near you • For details visit www.kiwicamping.co.nz

and hoping our water bottles hold

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Sheer guts, determination and

a strong stubborn streak

are sometimes needed to get through

difficult moments in life and in the hills

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Mackenzie is now very

at home in the hills

A younger Mackenzie, centre, during one

of her less happy tramping moments

33

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Cool scam, the fake DOC note found at Mid Caples Hut

WILD

CLIFF

HANGER

It happens all the time: a tramper commits to a KRUUHQGRXVO\ H[SRVHG PRYH RQO\ WR ¿QG KDOIZD\ WKURXJKWKHLUQHUYHKDVOHIWWKHP8QDEOHWRJRIRU ZDUG RU UHWUHDW ZKDW¶V WKH EHVW FRXUVH RI DFWLRQ"

Matthew Pike¿QGVRXW

Afriend of mine wanted to kill himself

Not for long Just for a few moments

FOLII RQ D Qear-vertical slope on Mt

Brewster He was poorly equipped He had one

ice pick when he should have had two He wore

hired crampons and had no rope

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* Embarrassed at getting himself into this situation, the climber has requested we don’t use his real name

What really shocked me to this

The thought of that was better than the feeling of falling and sliding.

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keep worries inside and not talk about them – you should be talking the whole time

MSC’s Andrew Hobman says everyone on the trip should

know their own limits as well as that of their companions

For adventurer Jamie Fitzgerald, honest and open communication was the key to ensuring he and Kevin Biggar completed their more audacious challenges

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