Tài liệu WORTH1000 Photoshop Tutorials P2 ppt

Page 8: More Tweening As I move my gear toward the motion guide, I can see how the REGISTRATION POINT is drawn to the guide.. Page 2 Before we start, we need to make a guess as to that m

Hooray! It's tweening! Wow, that's great! But the thrill wears off fast when you realize just how boring it is I wish there was an easy way to make my gear look like it was ROLLING across the stage instead of just sliding like that Oh yeah! There is!

You can highlight any frame of the tween in the timeline and go to what you'll soon discover is your favorite panel, the PROPERTIES PANEL

Oooo look at all the goodies! You can adjust the tween type, whether or not the transition remains to scale, the "Ease" of the tween (this changes the speed of the tween from beginning to end, say for example you want the gear to start out moving slowly across the stage and pick up speed faster as it reaches its destination, you would choose "Ease In." Experiment with this, it's fun) and the Rotation of the object that's being tweened

Page 5: Settings

I want my gear to roll 5 times Clockwise So I set the tabs and settings thusly and BING

This layer is specifically for creating a motion guide for the layer below it It defaults with the same number of frames as its counterpart and the frames are blank Now to make a guide I said I wanted the gear to move back along an arc path So, I'll make a simple arc using the line tool

Even though you can see the guides in the flash interface and on the stage, they will be invisible in the flash movie

Guides are best used with lines and not shapes, but it's possible to use just about any drawing tool as a guide Your object will just stick to the edge of a shape, but will follow a line in a more definite way Use the line tool, the Bezier Line tool, the pencil tool, or even the outline from the cirle or square tool will work Experiment and check it out!

Page 7: Snapping

I have my arc guide now, and I have my symbol Am I ready to tween? Yes! But there's one more thing to explain: SNAPPING You'll find snapping at times to be a big inconvenience when you don't want it to run, and at times, like now, it'll be very helpful When snapping is enabled for objects and guides, as you move an object it will naturally gravitate toward the guide in question Experiment with the settings from the View->Snapping submenu to get a feel for what each snapping setting will do At this point I have snapping enabled for Snap Align, Guides, and

Objects

Page 8: More Tweening

As I move my gear toward the motion guide, I can see how the REGISTRATION POINT is drawn to the guide That's the SNAPPING factor Remember that

Page 9: Results and Properties

And here's the result:

Cool, right? It gets cooler Highlight any frame in the motion tween and then open the Properties Panel again Now we can do all that neat stuff I wrote about up top to achieve different effects First I went to the final keyframe again and flattened my gear's height scale

Page 10: More Effects

And by going to that final keyframe again, clicking on my gear and the opening the properties panel, I can change the color, opacity and brightness settings of the gear so it changes in transition during the tween

Like this:

These are the basics of Motion Tweens and Motion Guides It might seem like a lot to take in but once you get a handle on these fundamentals there's a whole lot of things you can do and it only gets more and more fun

Keep flashing, stay cool, and enjoy!

whazzat

My woodworking skills aren’t top-notch, but there’s really not much need to make it look even this nice Don’t worry about appearance, just get the key measurements close and you’ll have a fully functional new toy

Page 2

Before we start, we need to make a guess as to that magic rotation point mentioned previously This is where the misinformation comes in

1 The point the camera must rotate about is the entrance pupil, not the nodal point as is often stated Better yet, who cares what they call it, there’s a test to figure it out

2 The rotation point (entrance pupil) is NOT necessarily halfway down the lens In fact, on many cameras, it’s not even close to that

So, what’s the test to find the entrance pupil?

Our mount will hold the camera sideways, but for now it’s easiest just to hold it horizontally Position two objects on a table so that they line up when viewed through your lens – a couple of batteries work perfectly for this Now pan your lens right and left as you normally would You’ll see the objects move relative to each other – that’s parallax

Now, let’s find a better pivot point Put the tip of the index finger of your left hand somewhere along the bottom of the barrel of the lens Now rotate the camera about that point Try to hold that left hand as steady as possible (c’mon, you’re a photographer, you got steady hands, right?) Still see a shift? Move your finger/pivot point along the lens until that shift goes away On my Canon 17-85 EF-S, the point was 4 1/8 inches forward of the screw socket This photo shows the camera straight ahead, and the batteries aligned:

Now the camera is turned to the side The alignment is quite close, but not perfect - we can see the left edge of the rear battery poking out:

The swivel is optional If you’re using a tilt and pan head, skip it However, if you have a ball head, it’s a lot easier to include it than try to adjust the ball head every shot

First, cut a piece of wood for the base Use a piece of very flat, thick (5/8” or so) oak plywood or a plank of hardwood Make it about 5” by 4” (12 cm x 10 cm) Next, cut the side To make sure the camera has enough clearance when you swing it down, make it a little over 5” tall The width would be the same 4” as the base Line up the two 4” edges so that the side is sitting on top of the base to form an “L” (see the picture above) Drill holes up through the bottom of the base into the side and screw the two together A little glue and maybe some bracing might help – this less flex the better

Page 4

Now we need to drill a couple holes The size of all the holes in this project except the last one are up to you, depending on what size fasteners you bought

The first hole needs to go in the base -we need to drill a hole near the center The exact distance from the side is critical – it will need to run through the center of the lens So, put your camera down on a table Measure the height from the table to the center of the lens – that’s the distance the hole in the base needs to be from the side

If you’re not using a swivel under the base, you’ll need a fairly large hole here, as you’ll need to install a socket (or “insert nut”) so the tripod can screw into the tripod head The dimensions of that socket depend on your tripod – if you’re planning to mount this to the screw that normally attaches to the camera, you want a “1/4-20” socket Here's what an insert nut looks like:

The hole in the side is where the arm will pivot As such, it needs to be in the same plane as the hole in the base In other words, if you’re looking at the unit from the side, the side hole will appear directly above the base hole Make the hole in the side about 4 1/2 to 5 inches above the base – your camera will need room to swing downwards when you’re shooting a picture of the sky

Page 5

Next, cut the arm To figure out the length, start with that previously measured distance between the entrance pupil and the screw socket (the one that was 4 1/8 inches on my Canon) – this distance is shown in green above Add a half inch to an inch on either side The width need only be a couple inches

Drill a hole at one end for the arm to attach to the side piece where it will pivot Drill another hole 4 1/8 inches (or whatever your measurement is) down the arm towards its other end This last hole is where the camera attaches, so it needs to be 1/4" wide Insert a 1/4-20 thumb screw through this hole (1/4-20 means 1/4” wide, with a thread pitch of 20, which is the most common pitch)

Now, attach the arm to the side You’ll need a flathead machine screw – you may have to gouge out a bit of the hole in the arm so the full head can sink into the arm and not hit your lens:

Push the screw through the arm, then through the side, then use a washer and a wingnut to secure it

Page 6

If you’ve chosen to include the swivel, cut a piece of wood about the size of the base, preferable big enough so it sticks out a bit – that will allow you to put markings on it so you can see how many degrees you’ve swiveled It’s not necessary, but I cut mine in a circle to make those markings easier to see (they’re not shown in the picture yet though) Drill a hole through the center of it, and push a flat head machine screw through it, then through the hole in the base As with the hole in the arm, you will probably need to gouge out the hole in the swivel a bit so you can prevent the head from sticking out – that surface will need to be flush with the tripod Secure the screw with washer and wingnut Finally, you need to install a socket or insert nut as described above for the base section Position it as near as possible to the center to maximize stability

Sand all the parts To finish things up, you can varnish, seal or paint, but don’t get any of it on the rotating surfaces – they’ll stick every time you adjust the arm or swivel Attaching a small level is highly recommended

That's it, we're done!

When using your new panoramic head, remember that it never pivots at the point where the camera is screwed into the arm – that joint stays put Pivot at the arm and base as necessary, overlapping 20-50% between shots

As far what software to use, this thread in the Worth photography forum has more info

But regardless of what you use, this new tool will make the stitching far easier and more accurate For example, this panoramic was stitched together from 9 shots:

Worth1000.com | Photoshop Contests | Are you Worthy™ | tutorial

Make Grafitti with adobe photoshop

This is a pretty simple tutorial that shows how to make a wall image overlay.

Page 1 : Introduction

Here is the goal of the tutorial:

Turn this:

file:///C|/Worth1000/10.htm (1 van 9)13-6-2006 23:17:04

Into this:

Worth1000.com | Photoshop Contests | Are you Worthy™ | tutorial

Page 2: Select your Images

First you will have to select an image that you want to use Of course I am using the wall picture from page 1 and this logo

Then use the Magic eraser tool or any method you want to create the shape you want the picture to be

file:///C|/Worth1000/10.htm (3 van 9)13-6-2006 23:17:04