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TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PL ANET Paris THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Catherine Le Nevez, Christopher Pitts, Nicola Williams Plan Your Trip ©Lonely Planet Publications P

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Paris

PDF ebook

Edition 11th Edition

Release Date Jan 2017

Pages 416

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted In return, we think it’s fair to everyone you know, or resell it See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.

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“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over

TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PL ANET Paris

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Catherine Le Nevez, Christopher Pitts, Nicola Williams Plan Your Trip

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Welcome to Paris 4

Paris’ Top 16 6

What’s New 17

Need to Know 18

First Time Paris 20

Top Itineraries 22

If You Like 24

Month By Month 28

With Kids 32

Like a Local 36

For Free 38

Museums & Galleries 40

Eating 44

Drinking & Nightlife 54

Entertainment 60

Shopping 65

LGBT Travellers 70

Parks & Activities 72

The Seine 74

Plan Your Trip page 1 Understand Paris 293 Survival Guide 329

Paris Maps 363

Plan Your Trip 4

Explore Paris 76

Transport 330

Directory A–Z 338

Language 345

Index 353

Paris Today 294

History 296

Fashion 308

Architecture 311

Literary Paris 316

Painting & Visual Arts 320

Film 325

Music 327

Neighbourhoods at a Glance 78

( L Y H O 7 R Z H U Western Paris 80

Champs-Élysées & Grands Boulevards 92

Louvre & Les Halles 106

Montmartre & Northern Paris 132

Le Marais, Ménilmontant & Belleville 154

Bastille & Eastern Paris 180

The Islands 193

Latin Quarter 205

St-Germain & Les Invalides 222

Montparnasse & Southern Paris 246

Day Trips from Paris 262

Sleeping 278

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St-Germain

& Les Invalides p222

Le Marais, Ménilmontant

& Belleville p154

Montparnasse

& Southern Paris p246

Latin Quarter p205

Montmartre

& Northern Paris p132

Louvre &

Les Halles p106

Champs-Élysées &

Grands Boulevards p92

Bastille & Eastern Paris p180

Eiffel Tower

& Western Paris

p80

The Islands p193

(left) Jardin du Luxem-bourg p228 Paris’ most

popular park

(above) Basilique du Sacré-Cœur p134 The

landmark basilica

(right) Restaurants

in Montmartre p140

Exciting dining venues

www.Ebook777.com

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Paris has a timeless familiarity for visitors, with architectural icons, exquisite cuisine, chic boutiques and priceless artistic treasures.

Welcome to

Paris

Iconic Architecture

The wrought-iron spire of the Eiffel Tower,

the broad Arc de Triomphe, the Champs-

Élysées, the gargoyled Notre Dame cathedral,

lamplit bridges spanning the Seine and art

nouveau cafes spilling on to

wicker-chair-lined terraces are indelibly etched in the

minds of anyone who’s visited the city – and

the imaginations of anyone who hasn’t (yet)

But despite initial appearances, Paris’

city-scape isn’t static: there are some stunning

modern and contemporary icons too, from

the inside-out, industrial-style Centre

Pompi-dou to the mur végétal (vertical garden)

grac-ing the strikgrac-ing Musée du Quai Branly

Glorious Food

Paris’ dining is iconic and whether you seek

a cosy neighbourhood bistro or a

triple-Michelin-starred temple to gastronomy,

you’ll find every establishment prides itself

on exquisite preparation and presentation of

quality produce, invariably served with wine

Enticing patisseries, boulangeries (bakeries),

fromageries (cheese shops) and crowded,

colourful street markets are perfect for

pack-ing a picnic to take to the city’s parks and

gardens A host of culinary courses – from

home kitchens through to the world’s most

prestigious cookery schools – offers

instruc-tion for all schedules, abilities and budgets

Stylish Shopping

Paris remains at the forefront of interna-tional trends, and browsing emerging and established designer boutiques and flagship

haute couture houses is a quintessential

part of any visit You’ll also find uberhip concept stores, quirky homeware shops, and resplendent art nouveau department stores, along with a trove of vintage shops and flea markets, atmospheric bookshops (including

the dark-green bouquiniste stalls –

second-hand bookshop – lining the riverbanks), adorable children’s wear and toy shops, art and antique dealers, venerable shops selling state-of-the-art professional cookware, and,

of course, gourmet food and wine shops galore

Artistic Treasures

Paris is one of the great art repositories

of the world, harbouring treasures from antiquity onward In addition to big hitters like the incomparable Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay’s exceptional impressionist collec-tion, and the Centre Pompidou’s cache of modern and contemporary art, there are scores of smaller museums housing col-lections in every imaginable genre, and a diverse range of venues mounting major exhibitions through to off-beat installations

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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PHO

Why I Love Paris

By Catherine Le Nevez, Writer

Paris’ grandeur is inspiring but what I love most about the city is its intimacy Its quartiers

(quarters) are like a patchwork of villages, and while it’s one of the world’s major metropo-lises – with all of the culture and facilities that go with it – there’s a real sense of commu-nity at the local shops, markets and cafes that hasn’t changed since my childhood Yet because every little ‘village’ has its own evolving character, I’m constantly discovering and rediscovering hidden corners of the city

For more about our writers, see p416

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Paris’

Top 16

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Eiffel Tower (p82)

without its signature spire But

tower – then the world’s tallest, at 320m

position Universelle Luckily, its popularity

assured its survival beyond the World Fair

and its elegant art nouveau webbed-metal

city, and toast making it to the top at the

sparkling Champagne bar

1 ( L Y H O 7 R Z H U : H V W H U Q 3 D U L V

Arc de Triomphe (p94)

-ly sculpted triumphal arch stands sentinel

about – just be sure to use the pedestrian tunnels below ground to reach it! Some

top, including swooping views along the

1 & K D P S V e O \ V p H V *

% R X O H Y D U G V

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8 PL A N YO U R TRI P PA R I S ’ T O P 1 6

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Notre Dame (p195)

glass rose windows,

ening gargoyles, Paris’

Notre Dame de Paris, on

city islands, is the city’s

geographic, historic and

wonder took nearly 200

years to build, but would

have been demolished

novel, The Hunchback of

Notre Dame which sparked

a petition to save it Climb

its 400-odd spiralling steps

1 7 K H , V O D Q G V

Louvre (p108)

the Venus de Milo are

treasures resplendently

turned royal palace turned

Louvre Stretching along the Seine, this immense museum can seem over-whelming, but there are

have nine months to glance

at every artwork and

TUILERIES (P118) AND THE LOUVRE

1 / R X Y U H / H V + D O O H V

Parisian Dining

(p44)

unchanged-in-decades neighbourhood haunt,

brasserie, a switched-on, experimental neobistro

R U Dhaute cuisine I H W H G establishment helmed by

experience are consid-ered inseparable France pioneered what is still the

cooking in the Western world and Paris is its show-case par excellence Do as Parisians do and savour

ALONG RUE MOUFFETARD (P210)

5 ( D W L Q J

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Musée Rodin (p230)

masterpieces like The Kiss, the marble

monument to love, as well as creations

them But the real treat is the mansion’s

rambling, rose-scented sculpture garden,

contemplating works like The Thinker

1 6 W * H U P D L Q / H V , Q Y D O L G H V

Specialised Shopping (p65)

Parisian shopping apart is its incredible

the world’s oldest candle maker, pigments

bouquiniste V H F R Q G K D Q G E R R N

7 6 K R S S L Q J

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Musée d’Orsay (p224)

richly coloured walls, the

canvases by impression-ist and postimpressionimpression-ist

in which the museum is lo-cated that was completed at

architecture, but France’s treasured national collection

1 6 W * H U P D L Q / , Q Y D O L G H V

1 1

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Jardin du

Luxembourg (p228)

the most attractive

park in Paris, the Jardin

Couples stroll through the

chestnut groves Children

chase wooden sailing boats

around the octagonal pond

with cherished pieces at

weathered tables Students

pore over books between

snatch some sunshine,

lounging in iconic

cians strike up in the

band-stand Joggers loop past

meet and make plans to

meet again

1 6 W * H U P D L Q / H V

, Q Y D O L G H V

Sacré-Cœur (p134)

basilica, Basilique

than one Staircased, ivy-clad streets slink up the hill

the church’s dove-white

shimmering apse mosaic

Christ in Majesty – crowns

dome

1 0 R Q W P D U W U H

1 R U W K H U Q 3 D U L V

The Seine (p74)

Parisian-as-it-gets

Louvre and Notre Dame

an idyllic way to acquaint

the city Its Unesco World Heritage–listed riverbanks,

particularly along the

banks Entertainment op-tions abound, including summertime beaches

1 7 K H 6 H L Q H

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13 PL A N YO U R TRI P PA R I S ’ T O P 1 6

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Centre Pompidou

(p116)

inside-out Centre

Pompidou building, designed

France’s national modern and

contemporary-art museum

Kandinsky and more, as well

such as Kahlo, Warhol and

Pollock, plus edgy installation

pieces, sculpture and videos

temporary exhibition spaces,

a public library, cinemas and

U R R I

1 / R X Y U H / H V + D O O H V

1 4

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Street Markets (p66)

lopped pigs’ trotters, horse-meat

sausag-es, spit-roasted chickens, glass bottles

goustines and prickly sea urchins on beds

senses

7 % D V W L O O H ( D V W H U Q 3 D U L V

Père Lachaise (p157)

marketing ploy worked and Cimetière du

1 / H 0 D U D L V 0 p Q L O P R Q

% H O O H Y L O O H

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Canal St-Martin (p148)

and a canal cruise is the best way to experience Paris’ lesser-known waterway

1 0 R Q W P D U W U H 1 R U W K H U Q 3 D U L V

Versailles (p263)

guard and ultimately dragged King Louis

to Paris to be guillotined: this monumental,

canals – could not have been in starker

con-trast to taxpayers’ average living conditions

1 ’ D \ 7 U L S V I U R P 3 D U L V

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What’s New

Ancient Origins

Across from the Eiffel Tower, Paris’ newly

reopened anthropological museum, the

Musee de l’Homme (p85), traces the

evo-lution of humankind through revamped

exhibits and an updated layout

Louvre Renewal

The labyrinthine Louvre (p108) recently

embarked on a 30-year renovation plan

to make the museum more accessible A

modernised entrance hall and improved

navigation are the first priorities

Car-Free Streets

Green initiatives include closing 3.3km

of Right Bank expressway between the

Tuileries and Bastille, pedestrianising the

Champs-Élysées on the first Sunday of each

month and an annual car-free day (p295)

Flat-Rate Fares

Taxi travel between the city centre and

Paris’ two main airports has become

mer-cifully simpler with the introduction of

fixed-price cab charges (p330)

Craft Breweries

Paris has embraced the bière artisanale

(craft beer) trend and the city now has a handful of boundary-pushing breweries, such as Brasserie La Parisienne (p252), of-fering behind-the-scenes tours and tastings

Cocktail Dinners

The city’s cocktail renaissance has seen a flurry of new restaurants upping the bar with amazing food pairings, such as at Dersou (p188), where each course comes with a custom-created cocktail

Detox!

Changes in Paris’ drinking scene include serious juice bars, such as Le Marais’ Wild

& the Moon (p171), finally arriving

Gluten-Free Goodness

Paris’ health kick continues with

gluten-free options such as boulangerie (bakery)

Chambelland (p169), baking cakes and breads that are as good as those of any traditional French bakery

Minted Michelin-Starred Dining

Triple-Michelin-starred culinary icon Guy Savoy’s flagship Restaurant Guy Savoy (p238) is now ensconced within the re-furbished neoclassical mint, the Monnaie

de Paris

Samaritaine Shopping

Left empty for a decade, landmark art nouveau department store La Samaritaine (p314) is getting ready to reopen its doors

by 2018, with a luxury hotel on site too

For more recommendations

and reviews, see lonelyplanet.

com/Paris

Lifestyle Hotels

A host of new sleep-drink-dine-dance

hotels are making accommodation in Paris

a lifestyle choice Among the newcomers

are Le Pigalle (p284), with a destination

bar, DJs and in-room turntables;

rockstar-hot ex-thermal baths Les Bains (p287),

with a sizzling in-house club;

cocktail-driven Grand Hôtel Pigalle (p285); and Off

Paris Seine (p292), the city’s first floating

hotel, with a panoramic 400 sq-metre sun

terrace, 15m-long swimming pool, bar and

lounge

17

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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