Bake from scratch winter 2016

Những ngày mùa đông lạnh lùng kêu gọi những bữa tiệc an ủi. Hãy ôm lò nướng của bạn và nướng theo cách của bạn thông qua 53 công thức nấu ăn theo mùa từ các hương vị muffin được sáng tạo với cam quýt đến các món tráng miệng hấp dẫn nhất. Có được cái nhìn đằng sau hậu trường độc quyền về nướng bánh ở Willa Jean ở New Orleans, tìm hiểu làm thế nào để làm bánh quy sôcôla của Thomas Keller, giới thiệu về thực phẩm đường phố . Bake from Scratch thu hút cảm hứng từ khắp nơi trên thế giới và xuống đường để mang lại cho bạn những trang đầy ngắm thông tin về bếp nướng của bạn.

FROM SCRATCH

strawberry-balsamic muffins p 47

Recipes for Winter Baking 53

#thebakefeed

The Essential

Rye Bread

Turkish Pastries Willa Jean in New Orleans Thomas Keller’s Chocolate Chip Cookies

FROM SCRATCH

bake from scratch

3

9 Products: Winter Kitchen Essentials

Let us show you the tools you need to bake your way through this issue with ease

11 On the Shelf: The Bread Basket

Cookbooks that dive deep into the art and science of breads from around the world

13 Expert Q&A: Thomas Keller on Chocolate Chip

Cookies One of life’s simple pleasures redefi ned by the mastermind behind Bouchon Bakery

17 Perfect Pairing: Happy Hour Hot Chocolate

A one-two chocolate punch from Chicago’s HotChocolate and the queen of cocoa

21 Bakery Profi le: The World’s Neighborhood Bakery San Francisco’s legendary Tartine Bakery attracts visitors from around the globe

27 From the Pantry: Molasses This thick amber syrup adds depth and sophistication

to your winter baking

winter 2016 4

Techniques for the perfect loaf with unbeatable

texture and deep rye fl avor

61 The Third Shift

At Willa Jean in New Orleans, the bakery magic

happens overnight during Third Shift

75 Into the Dark

Sinfully good chocolate recipes—because sometimes

it’s good to be bad

Our winter escape to fi nd the best handheld meat

pies in the Caribbean

89 For the Love of Cast Iron

Iron skillets are the workhorse of the kitchen and perfect for winter baking

101 Turkish Delights

An expat home cook keeps the fl avors of her native land alive with sweets and pastries

111 Cake Fit for Kings

In January, the French break bread with the

traditional Galette des Rois

113 Our Obsession: Kouign Amann Why (and where!) we are loving this palm-sized aff air

of sweetened dough

5 bake from scratch

EDITORIAL

EDITOR - IN - CHIEF BRIAN HART HOFFMAN

DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS BROOKE MICHAEL BELL

CREATIVE DIRECTOR / PHOTOGRAPHY MAC JAMIESON

CREATIVE DIRECTOR / ART DEANNA RIPPY GARDNER

PROJECT EDITOR JENNIFER V COLE

ASSISTANT EDITOR SOPHIA JONES

RECIPE EDITOR FRAN JENSEN

EDITORIAL COORDINATOR MARY-KATE SHERER

COPY EDITOR AVERY HURT

PHOTO STYLISTS MARY BETH JONES, BETH K SEELY

SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHERS JOHN O’HAGAN, MARCY BLACK SIMPSON

PHOTOGRAPHERS

JIM BATHIE , WILLIAM DICKEY, STEPHANIE WELBOURNE

ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER CAROLINE SMITH

TEST KITCHEN PROFESSIONALS

MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON, KATHLEEN KANEN, JANET LAMBERT,

VANESSA ROCCHIO, LOREN WOOD

TEST KITCHEN ASSISTANT ANITA SIMPSON SPAIN

SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST DELISA MCDANIEL

DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST CLARK DENSMORE

ADVERTISING

REGIONAL ADVERTISING DIRECTORS NEAL DIPENTINO, KATIE LOPER HAGAN, PAGE STABLER, SHEILA WARDY

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HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR JUDY BROWN LAZENBY

IT DIRECTOR MATTHEW SCOTT HOLT

DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER JANICE RITTER

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD / CEO PHYLLIS HOFFMAN DEPIANO

PRESIDENT / COO ERIC W HOFFMAN

PRESIDENT / CCO BRIAN HART HOFFMAN

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT / CFO MARY P CUMMINGS

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT / OPERATIONS & MANUFACTURING GREG BAUGH

VICE PRESIDENT / DIGITAL MEDIA JON ADAMSON

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Bake from Scratch is published by Hoffman Media, LLC, 1900 International Park Drive,

Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243 1-888-411-8995 The cover and contents of Bake from

Scratch are fully protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced in any manner without

prior written permission All rights reserved in all countries © 2016 Hoffman Media, LLC Printed in the USA.

#thebakefeed

TAG YOUR BAKINg ADVENTURES on instagram

using #thebakefeed #thebakefeed

We’ll post our favorites in the next issue.

FROM SCRATCH

@ paintedplanks

@ mydailysourdoughbread

While I can’t get enough of Thomas Keller’s Chocolate Chip and Chunk

Cookies (recipe on page 16), I’m an offi cial member of #teamdough That’s

right—I always sneak bites of dough and batter Join the conversation on

social media, and let us know if you’re #teamdough or #teamnodough

from the editor

This time of year, I crank up my oven and pack it full of a steady rotation of

comforting treats to share with family and friends From reinvented muffi n

fl avors that bring excitement to your morning routine to cozy cast-iron desserts,

these pages are full of incredible recipes we can’t wait to share with you

In this issue, we take you behind the scenes for an exclusive look at all-night

baking with our friends at Willa Jean in New Orleans “The Third Shift” (page

61), showcases the talented Lisa White and Kelly Fields as they craft perfect

pastries, breads, and confections The magic happens overnight so their bakery

shelves can be fi lled at fi rst light

We are thrilled for you to be holding our second issue in your hands

Thank you for joining us on this baking adventure! Be sure to use

#thebakefeed as you bake your way through this issue and enjoy

every delicious moment of winter

Brian Hart Hoffman

Editor-in-Chief

Follow us for daily baking inspiration

Bake from Scratch @thebakefeed @thebakefeed

7 bake from scratch

contributors

Daniel Schumacher

Daniel, an enthusiastic eater and seasoned home

cook, is constantly on the lookout for unique

stories, delicious recipes, and food trucks In this

issue of Bake from Scratch, we sent him to join the

crew at Willa Jean bakery in New Orleans for their

all-night third shift (page 61) Daniel began his

career as a food writer and editor in New York City

before moving South For more than three years,

he has lived in New Orleans serving as the editor

of Louisiana Cookin’, a Hoffman Media magazine

and the only national publication devoted to

true connoisseurs of Louisiana’s unique culture,

cuisine, and travel destinations

Go-to hot toddy: “I stick pretty closely to the

classic hot toddy recipe, though I don’t use much

honey, and depending on my mood I’ll add a little

extra Elijah Craig bourbon.”

Favorite order at Willa Jean: “The crab roll Much

like a Maine lobster roll, Willa Jean’s Hot Buttered

Crab Sandwich is pure, simple, and decadent: no

fi llers, no nonsense, just crab, butter, some garlic,

and pickled onions on a rich, fl aky bun.”

John Kessler

John currently lives and writes in Chicago In this

issue, he dove deep into the rich, amber world of

molasses (page 27) to share the sticky truth about

that pantry staple He recently ended an 18-year

career at the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, where he

wrote about food and served as the newspaper’s

dining critic His writing has received many awards,

including the National Headliner Award and four

citations from the James Beard Foundation He

currently serves as chairman of the James Beard

Foundation’s journalism awards committee

His essays, columns, and food features have been

anthologized 10 times in Best Food Writing, and

he recently passed fi rst-level certifi cation by the Court of Master Sommeliers

Go-to hot toddy: “I love Scotch in toddies—

mixing it with lemon, honey, water, or, better, with water and a spoonful of yuja-cha, a kind of yuzu marmalade meant to be mixed with hot water as a citron tea base that you can get in any Korean market.”

Favorite dessert made with molasses: “For me,

there’s nothing better than warm gingerbread with lemon curd Seriously: best dessert ever.”

Stephen Devries

Stephen is a food and travel photographer who loves the collaborative nature of food photography and working with stylists to create a beautiful image At the same time, he thrives on a sense of independent adventure and loves the exploration required for travel assignments If he’s not behind the camera, you can likely fi nd him traveling with his wife or out on the soccer fi eld

Go-to hot toddy: “I’m not a huge fan of the hot

toddy, but bourbon is my favorite spirit Give me a well-made Old Fashioned (no cherries, please) or

a pour of Elmer T Lee, served neat, and you have

my go-to feel-good libation.”

he got into food styling, Nathan lived in Chicago, where he attended school to learn how to make violins Always on the move, he plans to spend most of next year in Thailand

Go-to hot toddy: “Calvados bourbon hot toddy—

it’s great hot with lemon juice and top quality cider Rather than use exact measurements, I just eyeball it.”

Brooke Morton

Brooke is a freelance writer and editor based in Winter Park, Florida “I’m no Anthony Bourdain, but I won’t pass up a weird food I haven’t tried before,” says Brooke, whose on-assignment travels have led her to sample everything from cricket tacos to grouper eyeballs On page 85, she shares her picks for the best meat patties in the

Caribbean She contributes regularly to Islands,

Caribbean Travel + Life, and Sport Diver, traveling

often to the Caribbean, especially to the U.S Virgin Islands where she lived after college When not reliving island adventures for print stories, she’s in the kitchen, tinkering Her latest obsession: dal “If I keep messing up, there’s nothing left to do but buy a ticket to India.”

Go-to hot toddy: “I’m not a big drinker, but I do

have a winter elixir that I swear by: Brew a mug of echinacea tea, then add the juice of two lemons and an orange, and a small knob of ginger, plus

a couple dashes of cayenne pepper and maple syrup It may sound unappetizing, but it clears the sinuses better than any rum-fi lled cocktail.”

winter 2016 8

Perfect Caribbean day of eating: “I’d follow

the smell of curry to whatever’s cooking on the

grill or in a pot I’d fi ll up on a roti and several

barbecue ribs if available Then I’d nap in a

hammock beachside before dressing up to dine

al fresco somewhere that serves lobster Ideally

there’d be live music, so I’d get up to dance in

between courses so as not to overindulge too

much I’d want to rise early the next day to do

it all again!”

Tanner Latham

An award-winning travel writer, radio reporter,

and multimedia storyteller, Tanner has written

about everything from cinderblock barbecue

joints to luxurious, fi ve-star resorts We sent

him to Tartine to get the scoop on one of San

Francisco’s most iconic bakeries (page 21) His

stories have aired on NPR and have appeared in

Coastal Living, Country Living, and other publications

He lives in the Bay Area of Northern California,

where, in his spare time, he hosts Authentic US, a

nationally distributed storytelling podcast that

tells extraordinary stories of ordinary people

Listen at AuthenticUsStories.com.

Go-to hot toddy: “Four Roses with lemon and a

drop of honey (more whiskey, less hot water).”

Perfect Visit to Tartine: “Mid-afternoon on a

warm-for-San Francisco (upper 70s) Sunday The

line would be a challenge, but I’d strategically

score one of the outside tables lining 18th Street

I’d consume my thick newspaper (New York Times)

page by page and my frangipane tart bite by bite.”

recipe index

BREAD

Marbled Rye Bread 60Onion Twist Bread 99Rye Sandwich Bread 54

BARS AND COOKIES

Chocolate Chip and ChunkCookies 16

Chocolate-Espresso Cookies 74Dream Bars 19

Ginger and Peanut ButterBrownies 82

Linzer Cookies with Meyer LemonCurd 37

Malbec Fig Brownies 82One-Pound Chocolate Brownies 82Raspberry Brownies 82

CAKES

Blood Orange Loaf Cake 34Cardamom Flourless Chocolate Cake 81Clementine-Almond Cake 34

Nejla’s Yogurt Dessert 108Pear-Almond Cake 99Pecan Crumble Coffee Cake 95Pineapple-Curry Upside-Down Cake 95

FROSTINGS, GARNISHES, AND GLAZES

Black Sesame Streusel 50Blood Orange Glaze 34Blood Orange Simple Syrup 34Candied Clementines 34Chocolate Whipped Cream 81Crumb Topping 95

Grapefruit Crème Anglaise 37Orange Streusel 44

Thyme Glaze 49Thyme Syrup 49

MISCELLANEOUS

Balsamic Reduction 47Beet Purée 44

Cherry Sweet Rolls 95Cinnamon Rolls 73Grapefruit Soufflés with GrapefruitCrème Anglaise 37

Hot Chocolate 18Hot Chocolate Grog 18Meyer Lemon Curd 37Noah’s Pudding 108Pots de Crème 81Rye Bread Pudding with Pastramiand Leeks 56

Rye Crisps 56Strawberry-Apple Cobbler 96Tangerine Madeleines 34

Matcha-Almond Muffins with BlackSesame Streusel 49

Strawberry-Balsamic Muffins 47

PASTRY, PIES, AND TARTS

Baklava 110Chocolate Éclairs 81Chocolate Hand Pies 78Poğaça 108

FROM SCRATCH

aw y a am

m n p 47

Recipes for Winter Baking

53

The Essential Rye Bread

Turkish Pastries Willa Jean in New Orleans Thomas Keller’s Chocolate Chip Cookies FEATURING

Morning /WHƂPU

Reinvented

on the coverStrawberry-Balsamic

MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON

STYLING BY

MARY BETH JONES

On the Shelf Pages 11-12 Threshold large marble house available at Target,

target.com.

The Essential Rye Pages 51-60 Kitchen apron in bark by Studio Patró, 415-775-

3432, studiopatro.com.

For the Love of Cast Iron Pages 89-100 Cast-iron wedge pan and skillets by Lodge, 423-

837-7181, lodgemfg.com.

Cake Fit for Kings Pages 111-112 Linen kitchen apron in grey and natural French-stripe linen kitchen towel available

at Sur La Table,

800-243-0852, surlatable.com.

resources

From citrus souffles to loaf breads, the recipes in this issue are a lot easier with the right tools. Here are some of our staff picks to help you cook your way through this issue of Bake From Scratch.

1 Microplane Grater-Zester without Grip

This handy tool makes fast work of all things citrus, perfect for the recipes in

“Drops of Sunshine” (page 31) We prefer the model sans handgrip, as it’s easy

to position atop a bowl

$9.95; surlatable.com

2 Nonstick Madeleine Pan

For our delicate Tangerine Madeleines (page 34), we turned to this

shell-shaped French pan We like the tinned steel for even baking and nonstick

fi nish for easy release

$25; williams-sonoma.com

3 Williams-Sonoma Traditionaltouch Pullman Loaf Pan

We love to use a Pullman loaf pan on sandwich breads because it turns out

nice sharp corners and gives homemade loaves a professional look Try it with

our Rye Sandwich Bread (page 54)

$29.95; williams-sonoma.com

4 Ateco Off set Spatula

An off set spatula is a baker’s secret weapon It makes easy work of frosting

cakes, leveling batter in pans, and smearing fi lling for our cast-iron baked

Cherry Sweet Rolls (page 95)

$3.20-6.20; goldaskitchen.com

5 Ateco Natural Boar Bristle Round Pastry Brush

There’s no denying the versatility of a good pastry brush We use it for

everything from layering phyllo for Baklava (page 110) to varnishing Chocolate

Hand Pies (page 78) with egg wash

$9.95-$15; surlatable.com

6 All-Clad 2-Quart Sauce Pan with Porcelain Double Boiler

When it comes to melting chocolate (like for our One-Pound Chocolate

Brownies, page 82), using a double boiler can mean the difference between

gooey sweetness and a hot mess

$180; all-clad.com

D

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11 bake from scratch

The New Artisan Bread

in Five Minutes a Day

by Jeff Hertzberg, M.D., and Zoë François

Best-selling authors Jeff Hertzberg and Zoë François went back into the kitchen to revamp and update their

now-classic Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day Packed with tips and techniques and 100 how-to photos, The New

Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day (Thomas Dunne Books/

St Martin’s Press) demonstrates how home cooks can achieve bakery-worthy creations with just fi ve minutes

of active preparation time New to this edition is a whole section dedicated to gluten-free baking, from sandwich loaves to pizza to sweet brioche

Bien Cuit:

The Art of Bread

by Zachary Golper and Peter Kaminsky

Deep in Brooklyn’s Boerum Hill neighborhood, Zachary Golper lives in a fl urry of fl our at his beloved Bien Cuit bakery His signature style relies on long, cold fermentation, a process that helps the bread develop deep, complex fl avors and a thick crust the color of mahogany

For his fi rst cookbook, Bien Cuit: The Art of Bread, he teams

up with noted food critic and author Peter Kaminsky In addition to delivering recipes for classic Pullman loaves, Bourbon Bread, Port-Fig Rolls, and sweet and savory quick breads, this gorgeous photo-packed tome covers essentials on grains and fl ours (and how different varieties affect a recipe), necessary equipment, and the underlying alchemy of bread

The Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook

by Jessamyn Waldman Rodriguez and the bakers of Hot Bread Kitchen

In New York City, the bakers of the Hot Bread Kitchen line the shelves with braided

challah, baguettes, Mexican conchas, and chewy Indian naan The variety of breads

offered is as diverse as the ladies who bake the loaves Part of that might be attributed to

the rich multinational community found in the city But truthfully, all of the recipes

come from the bakers’ homelands Hot Bread Kitchen, part bakery, part training facility,

works with immigrant women to teach them the essential skills to make it in the highly

competitive culinary fi eld The Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook: Artisanal Baking from Around the World

(Clarkson Potter) shares the stories of these dynamic women and the essential methods

to create this global smorgasbord at home

A Passion for Bread

By Lionel Vatinet

Master Baker Lionel Vatinet is a dough genius Plain and simple At his unassuming

bakery in Cary, North Carolina, this French native produces swoon-worthy boules,

baguettes, and beyond In his book, A Passion for Bread: Lessons from a Master Baker (Little,

Brown and Company), he uses step-by-step photos to guide readers through

shaping, folding, scoring, and filling loaves, from classic sourdough to baguettes

stuffed with sausage and mozzarella Particularly helpful for novice bread bakers are

his seven key steps to great bread, such as basics on proper measuring and

easy-to-follow explanations of fermentation

Making Dough

by Russel van Kraayenburg

Dough lies at the heart of baking And the trick to good dough is all about getting

ingredients in the right proportions Baking is a science, after all—it boils down to the

relationship between fl our, butter, water, sugar, and eggs In Making Dough: Recipes and

Ratios for Perfect Pastries (Quirk Books), Russell van Kraayenburg, founder of the

award-winning blog Chasing Delicious, lays out the secrets to mastering 12 essential pastry

doughs, including biscuits, scones, brioche, and croissants We love the handy chart that

translates what you can make once you’ve mastered the basic doughs For example, once

you’ve gotten the knack of shortcrust, you can broaden your repertoire to tarts, tartlets,

pop tarts, and even cookies

b

THOMAS KELLER ON

CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

No matter who you are, homemade chocolate chip cookies are the great equalizer.

We spoke with chef Thomas Keller, one of the most acclaimed and accomplished chefs

in the world. to get his favorite recipe and find out what separates a good cookie from a great one.

Because let’s be honest, we all know there’s no such thing as a bad chocolate chip cookie.

winter 2016 14

What is the secret to a great chocolate chip cookie?

Superior chocolate makes a chocolate chip cookie great Buy the best quality

ingredients you can afford—that is the fi rst step to achieving your best

cookie possible

What chocolate is best?

At Bouchon Bakery, we use Guittard Chocolate Company’s 72% morsels

and chunks for our Chocolate Chip and Chunk Cookies because it fi ts our

style and achieves the fl avor profi le we want, all from a local purveyor Their

72% has a high cacao content, so it’s more acidic and really showcases the

fl avor of the cacao amongst the rest of the ingredients

What fl our do you prefer when baking cookies?

We use Harvest King All-Purpose Flour at Bouchon Bakery because their

product is consistent all year long at each of our locations—Yountville, Las

Vegas, New York, and Beverly Hills This is important because the climate in

each of these markets is different, and humidity can affect the performance

of your dry ingredients For anyone with a gluten allergy, Cup4Cup

gluten-free fl our is a great substitute for all-purpose fl our

What’s your trick for getting gooier or crispier cookies?

You can play with the ratio of brown sugar For a chewy cookie you want

more molasses, which you get from a higher ratio of brown sugar Crispier cookies are obtained with a lower ratio of brown sugar

Chocolate chip cookies are best eaten

10-15 minutes out of the oven!

My favorite chocolate chip cookie from childhood was .

Classic Toll House

Crunchy or gooey?

I prefer a crunchy exterior with a soft and chewy center, just like we make them at our bakery

Bite-sized or oversized?

Oversized One bite is not enough!

Favorite store-bought chocolate chip cookie?

I don’t buy them

Best drink with a chocolate chip cookie?

A glass of ice-cold milk

thomas keller on his chocolate chip and chUnk cookies

Bouchon Bakery is well known for its cookies We love our cookies, and we make them big The chocolate chunk and chip recipe

was one of our fi rst In most cooking or baking, varying textures is important, and cookies are no different This is why we use both

chocolate chunks and chocolate chips, which behave differently in the dough The chunks melt, but the chips don’t

I’ve always believed that when you have a special, expensive ingredient—truffl es, for instance, or foie gras—it’s important to offer

it in abundance so that people know what the fuss is about Chocolate falls into that category here—these cookies are packed with

chocolate We use plenty of brown sugar as well as molasses for a deep, rich fl avor If you like nuts in your cookies, feel free to add them

instead of either the chocolate chunks or the chocolate chips

winter 2016 16

Makes 6 cookies, 4 inches each

1½ cups plus 3 tablespoons (238 grams) all-purpose

fl our

½ teaspoon (2.3 grams) baking soda

1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (134 grams) lightly packeddark brown sugar

1¾ teaspoons (12 grams) unsulphured blackstrapmolasses

½ cup plus 1 teaspoon (104 grams) granulated sugar

⅔ cup (107 grams) ⅜-inch chunks 70% to 72%

chocolateScant ½ cup (107 grams) chocolate chips5.9 ounces (167 grams) unsalted butter, at roomtemperature

3 tablespoons plus 2½ teaspoons (60 grams) eggs

You’ll need a 2½-inch (#10) ice cream scoop For thisrecipe, we use Valrhona Guanaja 70% or Guittard 72%

chocolate Cookies baked in a convection oven will have

a more even color and will not spread as much as thosebaked in a standard oven

1 Place the fl our in a medium bowl Sift in the bakingsoda Add the salt, and whisk together Place the darkbrown sugar in a small bowl, and stir in the molasses andgranulated sugar, breaking up any lumps; the mixture willnot be completely smooth

2 Place the chocolate chunks in a strainer, and tap theside to remove any powdered chocolate, which wouldcloud the cookies Mix with the chocolate chips

3 Place the butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted withthe paddle attachment Turn to medium-low speed, andcream the butter, warming the bowl if needed, until it isthe consistency of mayonnaise and holds a peak whenthe paddle is lifted Add the molasses mixture, and mixfor 3 to 4 minutes, until fluffy Scrape down the sides andbottom of the bowl Add the eggs, and mix on low speedfor 15 to 30 seconds, until just combined Scrape thebowl again The mixture may look broken, but that is fine

(overwhipping the eggs could cause the cookies toexpand too much during baking and then deflate)

4.Add the dry ingredients in 2 additions, mixing onlow speed for 15 to 30 seconds after each, or until justcombined Scrape the bottom of the bowl to incorporateany dry ingredients that have settled there Add thechocolates, and pulse on low speed about 10 times tocombine Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes

5.Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven,and preheat the oven to 325°F (convection or standard) Linetwo sheet pans with Silpats or parchment paper

6.Using the ice cream scoop, divide the dough into 6equal portions (150 grams each) Roll each one into aball between the palms of your hands (The dough can beshaped in advance; see Note.)

7.The cookies are very large; bake only 3 on each pan

With a short end of the pan toward you, place one cookie

in the upper left corner, one in the lower left corner, andthe third one in the center, toward the right side of thepan Bring the dough to room temperature before baking

8.Bake until golden brown, 14 to 16 minutes in aconvection oven, 18 to 20 minutes in a standard oven,reversing the positions of the pans halfway throughbaking Set the pans on a cooling rack, and cool for 5 to

10 minutes, then transfer the cookies to the rack to coolcompletely

The cookies are best the day they are baked, but they can

be stored in a covered container for up to 3 days

Note on Advance Preparation: The shaped dough can berefrigerated for up to 2 days before baking For longerstorage, freeze the dough in a covered container or aplastic bag for up to 1 month; the day before baking, placethe cookies on a lined baking sheet, and defrost in therefrigerator overnight Bring to room temperature beforebaking

For Smaller Cookies: Divide the dough into 12 equalportions (75 grams each) Bake for 12 to 14 minutes in aconvection oven, 16 to 18 minutes in a standard oven

Recipe and photos excerpted from Bouchon Bakery by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books) Copyright 2012 Photography by Deborah Jones.

CHOCOLATE CHIP

and chunk COOKIES

b

perfect pairing

Hot Chocolate

Warm up with a one-two

chocolate punch from

Chicago’s queen of cocoa

HAPPY HOUR

When it’s cold and blustery outside, Chicagoans know

the best place to retreat is to HotChocolate, the dessert

bar of sugar maven and renowned pastry chef Mindy

Segal Her signature hot chocolate concoctions and

decadent collection of sweets have wooed customers

and critics alike, earning her perennial nods from

Time Out Chicago, Chicago magazine, and the James

Beard Foundation Variations range from the Mexican

(infused with cinnamon and cayenne) to Pumpkin

Spice (white and milk chocolate with pumpkin spices)

to Half & Half (equal parts espresso and dark hot

chocolate), and they’re all guaranteed to shake off the

winter blues Order them as-is, or give them an adult

twist with a sidecar of Sambuca or Amaretto Here,

Mindy shares her recipe for Hot Chocolate Grog, a

rich and creamy hot cocoa blended with brandy and

orange liqueur that’s guaranteed to warm you all the

way down to your toes Pair it with her Dream Bars,

simple, buttery bars topped with shards of chocolate

and meringue, for the perfect winter fix

PRO TIP: Place marshmallows

on a long skewer Carefullytoast them using a pastrytorch, or place under ovenbroiler for a few seconds untillightly browned

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES

FOOD STYLING BY ANNA THEOKTISTO

17 bake from scratch

Hot Chocolate

Makes 2 servings

½ cup whole milk

½ cup heavy whipping cream

¾ cup Mindy’s HotChocolate BlendSweetened whipped cream

Marshmallows

1.In a small saucepan, bring milk and cream to a boil overmedium heat Add Mindy’s HotChocolate Blend to milkmixture, and turn heat off Let steep for 1 minute Whiskuntil well blended Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, ifdesired

2.Serve hot, over ice, or with a shot of your favorite liquor.Top with whipped cream or a marshmallow, if desired

HOT CHOCOLATE SUPPLIESYou can buy Mindy Segal’s proprietary blend of French and Belgian chocolate mix ($22) and her homemade marshmallows ($6 for 1 dozen) available

September through April at hotchocolatechicago.com.

HOT CHOCOLATE GROG

Makes 2 cocktails

Mindy Segal always adds a toasted marshmallow

when serving this cocktail at her restaurant To

make this recipe with her signature ingredients,

visit hotchocolatechicago.com to order her hot

chocolate mix and marshmallows

1 chai tea bag

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sweetened

condensed milk

1½ cups Hot Chocolate (recipe follows)

¼ cup Spanish brandy, such as Senor Lustau

1940 Solera

2 tablespoons orange liqueur, such as

Mandarine Napoleon

Sweetened whipped cream

Garnish: toasted marshmallows

1 In a small saucepan, steep chai tea bag in

sweetened condensed milk over low heat Let

simmer for 10 to 15 minutes

2 In another saucepan, heat Hot Chocolate

over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until

mixture is heated through

3 Divide brandy and orange liqueur between

2 serving glasses Add half Hot Chocolate and

half chai milk mixture to each glass, stirring to

combine Top with whipped cream, and garnish

with a toasted marshmallow, if desired

DREAM BARS

Makes 30

Mindy has been making these bars since high school, when she got the

recipe from her mother—who got it from her friend, Phyllis Grossman She’s

made them with everything from milk chocolate to fudge, but swears by the

bittersweet chocolate version Let your sweet tooth proceed with caution:

Mindy warns that these buttery bars are highly addictive

1 (4-ounce) 64% to 66% cacao bittersweet chocolate bar

(113 grams), melted

1 cup (226 grams) unsalted butter, softened

½ cup (93 grams) granulated sugar

1 tablespoon water

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 extra-large eggs, room temperature, separated

2 cups (280 grams) unbleached all-purpose fl our

1 teaspoon (6 grams) baking soda

1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking powder

1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt

1 cup (212 grams) fi rmly packed dark brown sugar

1 Invert a baking sheet, and spray with cooking spray Line top with

parchment paper With an off set spatula, spread melted chocolate evenly

across parchment Place baking sheet in the freezer until fi rm, about 30

minutes

2 Lightly coat a quarter sheet or 13x9-inch pan or glass baking dish with

cooking spray, and line with parchment paper, leaving 1 inch of overhang

on long sides

3 In the bowl of a stand mixer fi tted with the paddle attachment, beat

butter at medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds Add granulated sugar, and

beat until mixture is aerated, 3 to 4 minutes Scrape sides and bottom of

bowl with a rubber spatula to bring batter together

4 Add 1 tablespoon water and vanilla to egg yolks Add egg yolks to

butter mixture, one at a time, beating until batter resembles cottage

cheese, about 5 seconds per yolk Scrape sides and bottom of bowl with

a rubber spatula to bring batter together Beat at medium speed for 20

to 30 seconds to make nearly homogeneous

5 In a medium bowl, whisk together fl our, baking soda, baking powder, and salt

6 Add fl our mixture to butter mixture, and beat at low speed until dough just comes together but still looks shaggy, about 30 seconds Do not overmix Remove bowl from stand mixer With a plastic bench scraper, bring dough completely together by hand

7 Transfer dough to prepared pan Using a rubber spatula and then your

fi ngertips, press dough into corners of the pan, and smooth the surface Remove chocolate from the freezer, and break it up into shards Scatter chocolate shards across the surface of the dough, and then press into the dough Cover with plastic wrap, pressing down through the plastic to smooth down the top (You can also use a pastry roller to even out the surface.) Refrigerate until dough is set, at least 20 minutes or overnight (If refrigerating dough overnight, refrigerate the egg whites as well, letting them come to room temperature before proceeding with the meringue.)

8 Preheat oven to 350°

9 In the bowl of a stand mixer fi tted with the whisk attachment, beat egg whites and a pinch of kosher salt at medium speed until frothy, about 45 seconds Add brown sugar, and beat at medium-high speed until shiny peaks form and the meringue holds its shape, 2 to 3 minutes Spread meringue evenly over chilled dough

10 Bake until meringue resembles a lightly toasted marshmallow, 23

to 25 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking It will start to crack on the sides but should still be slightly soft in the center, and the shortbread should be cooked through but still pale—not golden brown (Do not overbake, or the shortbread will be too crumbly to cut.) Let cool completely in pan Once cool, refrigerate until chilled

11 Using parchment as handles, lift bars out of pan, and transfer to a cutting board Cut bars lengthwise into 3 strips Cut bars crosswise into

10 strips to make small, rectangular bars Serve bars at room temperature Bars can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days

HENNESSY V.S COGNAC

Intense and fruity with oaky notes, the result of eaux

de vie matured in French oak casks On the tongue,

you might pick up hints of grilled almonds and fresh

grapes

MARTELL V.S COGNAC

Created over 150 years ago, a cognac known for rich

fruit and spice with notes of citrus and fresh pear It’s

consumed just as frequently neat as it is in cocktails

COINTREAU

A Triple-Sec that blends bitter and sweet orange peels

It was created by brothers Edouard-Jean and AdolpheCointreau at their Angers, France, distillery in 1875

GRAND MARNIER

A blend of French cognacs and wild tropical orangesfrom the Caribbean Though it’s often used to spike hotchocolate or coffee, this orange liqueur is frequentlydrunk neat or on the rocks as a digestif.b

ON THE BAR CART

Mindy prefers to use Señor Lustau 1940 Solara brandy and Mandarine Napoléon liqueur in her Hot Chocolate

Grog But if you can't fi nd those brands, these widely available substitutes work well

19 bake from scratch

BY TANNER LATHAM

winter 2016 22

It stands as one of the most famous and iconic bakeries in the

country, always shortlisted among top culinary destinations

in San Francisco Up to 1,200 people a day make pilgrimages

to The Mission neighborhood to join a queue that spills from

the 800-square-foot retail area and hems the building’s edge

Its owners, married couple Elisabeth (Liz) Prueitt and Chad

Robertson, complement each other as pastry chef and baker,

respectively, building an unbelievably effi cient and successful

business that perfectly plays to the best of each one’s strengths

Many rate Chad’s recipe for Country Sourdough Bread—with

its tangy, chewy, moist interior shielded by a hardy, blistered

crust—as the epitome of the form Liz’s plate-sized frangipane

croissants—their dark brown exteriors fl aking away to reveal

Tartine Bakery has every right to be pretentious

a buttery layered pocket for almond cream—often sell out in

a matter of hours A few years into the life of the bakery, Liz and Chad applied their magic to Bar Tartine, an intimate place they opened around the corner that satiated their desire to serve more savory items, such as beef tartare on toast (In 2015, the couple sold Bar Tartine to its current executive chefs, Nick Balla and Cortney Burns.) The Tartine brand enjoys countless

accolades, ranging from regular praise in the San Francisco Chronicle

to a pair of highly coveted James Beard awards, including one for Outstanding Pastry Chef In total, the team has published three

popular cookbooks—all fi t for coffee table display—and Tartine

Bread, the follow up to Tartine, has become a modern manual for

at-home bread makers

Photos courtesy Tartine Bakery and Tartine Bread (Chronicle Books, 2010), photos by Eric Wolfi nger.

bake from scratch

23

Yes, amid the swell of reverential praise from fi erce foodies and top culinary publications alike, Tartine Bakery has earned the right to posture as a jewel box, a place that is precious and exclusive Thankfully, it has intentionally chosen to remind you that it is fi rst and foremost a bakery, the kind you might fi nd in your own neighborhood

You join the constant crowd of customers shuffl ing over the worn wooden fl oor, and eye potential places to sit among the orphaned chairs that rest against walls, fl oat in the middle of the room, or are tucked tightly into the corners

of the half dozen indoor tables When you peer over the counter, through the stacked racks of industrial-sized, glass-fronted refrigerated cases, you see the frenetic choreography

of pastry chefs and bakers in jeans, T-shirts, and backward caps When you stare into the nondescript display case, you

fi nd work-of-art pastries—the frangipane tart, for example, baked with almond cream fi lling and seasonal fruit, posing as the delicious alternative to the aforementioned croissant—

bathed in a familiar, comfortable fl uorescent glow

" No matter what is

happening in the world,

people still like to

have their cup of

coffee and a treat ”

— Liz Prueitt

bake from scratch

25

“It is a gathering place,” says Liz, recalling how people fl ock to the bakery

when they are celebrating, or even grieving These days, the warranted

acclaim usually renders Tartine Bakery more chaotic than quiet, yet the

neighbors still view it as vital to their daily routine It is a comforting

touchstone “No matter what is happening in the world, people still like to

have their cup of coffee and a treat.”

Recently, Tartine announced the opening of The Manufactory, a café in the

Heath Ceramics space in San Francisco’s Mission District This new venture

will showcase Liz’s cookies, ice cream, and preserves (available for sale in the

in-house retail larder), and will house an all-day eatery with a wood-burning

pizza oven and a bakery that sells Tartine’s signature loaves and pastries

Loyalists whisper skepticism, and fear that Tartine will lose its identity and the

bread and pastry quality will suffer But Liz promises that she and Chad will

both be closely involved in the business She says that nothing will slip They

will still bake everything fresh daily with the discipline and precision that has

always been the cornerstone of their success

We have every reason to believe her Fifteen years into its storied existence,

Tartine still fits the genuine artisan character that permeates the food scene

in this city It is an accessible place fully devoted to its craft and to feeding its

community

1990-1993

Liz and Chad meet at the Culinary Institute

of America in Hyde Park, New York, and are fatefully paired as classroom partners

After graduation, Liz works at Montrachet in NYC, and Chad finds his mentor Richard Bourdon at Berkshire Mountain Bakery

in Massachusetts They wed soon after graduation.

1966

Liz’s mother, Carol, a talented home

cook and baker, gives her

three-year-old daughter an Easy Bake Oven

that seeds a lifelong passion

1995

The couple spends the year traveling throughout

France, working in esteemed bakeries, such

as Boulangerie Artisinale des Maures and

Boulangerie Savoyarde, in Provence and Savoie

and immersing themselves in traditional baking

methods and classical French techniques.

1995—2000 The couple moves to California’s Bay Area and open Bay Village Bakery in Point Reyes Station Their work catches the attention of notable food influencers including Alice Waters

July 2002

Liz and Chad open Tartine Bakery in The Mission District

of San Francisco on a shoestring budget It quickly gains

a stellar reputation, spurred by San Francisco Magazine naming Liz Pastry Chef of the Year.

t a r t i n e

t i m e l i n e

b

winter 2016 26

2005

The couple opens Bar Tartine, a

full-service restaurant with a menu that

evolves to feature Hungarian, Northern

European, and Asian influences.

2006

Chronicle Books publishes Tartine,

a cookbook which wins a James Beard Foundation Award for photography (Follow-up successes include Tartine Bread in 2010 and 2013’s Tartine Book No 3.)

2008

Liz and Chad win the James Beard Foundation Award for Outstanding Pastry Chef

from the pantry

The molasses we fi nd on the grocer’s shelf comes to us as an emissary from

a long-ago time We pour this mahogany treacle, the by-product of sugar refi ning, from bottles depicting an Old South Plantation, Brer Rabbit, or a white-haired grandma Indeed, we use molasses primarily for vintage recipes

Think baked beans, shoofl y pie, and gingersnaps

Just remember: Grandma was young once, and molasses must have been the salted caramel of her day—sweet and appealingly bitter, with a racy complexity

It amps up the fl avors of baking, encouraging spoonfuls of warm spices—

clove, cinnamon, nutmeg—rather than sprinkles It has a particular affi nity for the peppery bite of ginger

Because molasses is highly acidic (indeed, much of the nation’s output goes into the production of citric acid), bakers didn’t need any sour milk, vinegar,

or any chemical-tasting cream of tartar or baking powder to leaven their gingerbread Just a spoonful of bicarbonate of soda did the trick

More than other sweeteners, molasses literally sucks moisture out of the air That is why dense brown bread has an incomparably tender crumb, and cookies made with molasses come off the cooling rack both chewy and snappy,

a magical texture thrumming with sugar and spice

You should make molasses cookies, the easiest and most gratifying recipe you can fi nd, and soon you will be tinkering endlessly with the spices, the ratios, and the cooking times until the recipe is yours You will fi nd the right spicy bite, the right sugary gloss, the right point on the texture spectrum But fi rst you need the right molasses

From cookies to bread,

this thick amber liquid gives extra depth to baked goods

Consider it the liquid gold of your winter pantry

BY JOHN KESSLER

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES

Dark molasses comes after the second boiling and extraction of sugar Now we can taste that deep sourness, that metallic twang, and that concentrated essence that spices so readily fold into If you like bitter fl avors, you will lick some off your fi nger and then immediately want another taste

After a third boiling and extraction, we have blackstrap molasses, which, true to its name, is a black hole of intensity (“Strap” comes from the Dutch word “stroop” for syrup.) It tastes like a reduction of Fernet-Branca, espresso, dirt, and pennies Loaded with iron, calcium, magnesium, and a host of other minerals and nutrients,

it serves as a fi ne dietary supplement, which is why people breathe deeply and force down spoonfuls When used as a cooking ingredient, it must be added sparingly

Whichever molasses you choose, make sure to buy one labeled unsulphured, meaning that it hasn’t been treated with a fl avor-altering preservative

Then you will have a new ingredient in your baking pantry, one waiting to be rediscovered not only for its old-fashioned virtues but also for its challenging, sophisticated fl avor You’ll realize Grandma kind of had it going on

Brer Rabbit Full Flavor Molasses

Bittersweet with a coff ee fl avor Works well

in spice-heavy baking.

brerrabbit.com

Steen’s Dark Molasses

Robust and bitter, with an almost burnt fl avor Great for baked beans

steensyrup.com

Plantation Blackstrap Molasses

Intense with a burnt, lingering fi nish

alliedoldenglish.com

bake from scratch

29

Grandma’s Original Molasses

Bright, sweet, and spicy Easy to

eat with a spoon.

Pours like corn syrup, fl ickers

gold when the light catches

it, and is more sweet than

bitter Good as a cane syrup

substitute and for baking

(Also labeled: “sweet,”

“original,” or “mild.”)

DARK

Viscous like honey but much darker It is less sweet, more bitter, and peppery in

a way that works well with spices—ideal for baking (Also labeled: “full fl avor” or simply

Wholesome Sweeteners Organic Molasses

Dark, bitter, and toasty, with licorice and coff ee grounds on the fi nish

wholesomesweet.com

Brer Rabbit Blackstrap Molasses

Dark and thick, reminiscent of burnt caramel.

brerrabbit.comb

It’s the height of citrus season, and we’ve rounded up our favorite desserts that showcase the cream of the crop. From clementines to tangerines, we’ve got

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM DICKEY / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES

Sweet and subtly tart with flesh that

ranges from dark pink to brilliant red

to deep burgundy (hence, the name)

blood orange

Blood Orange Loaf Cake

page 34

A small, super-sweet, aromatic hybrid that abounds in Spain and Sicily and

is almost always seedless When a recipe calls for orange wedges, make the

supple clementine segments your go-to

clementine

Clementine-Almond Cake

bake from scratch

33

BLOOD ORANGE LOAF CAKE

Makes 1 (8x5-inch) loaf

The addition of zest and a glaze heightens the

subtle blood orange fl avor in this cake, which

manages to be moist without being dense.

1½ cups (216 grams) all-purpose fl our

2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder

1 teaspoon (5 grams) kosher salt

1 cup (215 grams) sugar

1 cup sour cream

3 large eggs

2 tablespoons blood orange zest

½ cup blood orange juice

½ cup (110 grams) vegetable oil

Blood Orange Glaze (recipe follows)

Garnish: halved blood oranges

1 Preheat oven to 350° Spray a 9x5-inch

loaf pan with cooking spray, and line with

parchment paper

2 In a medium bowl, whisk together fl our, baking

powder, and salt In the bowl of a stand mixer

fi tted with the whisk attachment, beat sugar,

sour cream, eggs, orange zest, and orange juice

at medium speed until well combined, 3 to 4

minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape down

sides of bowl Reduce mixer speed to low, and

gradually add in fl our mixture Continue beating

at low speed, and add oil in a slow, steady stream

until combined

3 Pour batter into prepared pan, and bake

until golden brown and a wooden pick inserted

in center comes out clean Let cool in pan for

5 minutes Remove from pan, and let cool

completely on a wire rack Drizzle with Blood

Orange Glaze and garnish with blood oranges,

and serve immediately

Blood Orange Glaze

Makes ⅓ cup

¼ cup Blood Orange Simple Syrup (recipe

follows)

1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar

1 Whisk together Blood Orange Simple Syrup

and confectioners’ sugar until smooth

Blood Orange Simple Syrup

Reduce heat to low, and simmer for 5 minutes

Remove from heat, and let cool Strain mixture through a fi ne-mesh sieve, discarding solids

CLEMENTINE-ALMOND CAKE

Makes 1 (9-inch) cake

This fragrant cake demonstrates why almonds and sweet clementines are a match made in pastry heaven.

4 ripe clementines, zested and sectioned

1 cup (124 grams) pastry fl our, divided1½ teaspoons (6 grams) baking powder

1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt1⅓ cups (284 grams) sugar

3 tablespoons orange zest

¾ cup (226 grams) almond paste

1 cup (226 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and reserved

6 large eggs Garnish: Candied Clementines (recipe follows)

1 Preheat oven to 325° Line a 9-inch round cake pan with parchment paper; grease and

fl our parchment Arrange clementine sections

in an even layer in bottom of prepared pan

2 In a small bowl, whisk together ¾ cup (94 grams) pastry fl our, baking powder, and salt

In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse together sugar, orange zest, almond paste, and remaining ¼ cup (30 grams) pastry fl our until well combined, 3 to 4 minutes With processor running, add butter, 1 tablespoon

at a time Add vanilla bean seeds Process until mixture is smooth, 3 to 4 minutes With processor running, add eggs, one at a time Add

fl our mixture in 2 batches, pulsing to combine between each addition

3 Pour batter into prepared pan, and bake until golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 50 minutes to 1 hour

Let cool in pan for 5 minutes Run a knife around the edges to loosen before inverting onto a wire rack to let cool completely Garnish with Candied Clementines, and serve immediately

2 In a large skillet, bring sugar and 1 cup water

to a boil over medium-high heat Let boil for

5 minutes; reduce heat to low Add sliced clementines to syrup in a single layer, and continue to simmer for 20 minutes

3 With a slotted spoon, remove clementines from pan, and let dry on a wire rack until ready

to garnish, about 10 minutes

TANGERINE MADELEINES

Makes 24

We add tangerines to give a simple citrus twist to this French classic We think Proust would approve

1 cup (228 grams) granulated sugar

2 tablespoons tangerine zest

5 large eggs 1¾ cups (228 grams) all-purpose fl our1½ teaspoons (9 grams) baking powder

¼ teaspoon (1 gram) kosher salt

1 cup (225 grams) unsalted butter, melted

¼ teaspoon vanilla extractConfectioners’ sugar, for serving

1 Preheat oven to 325° Spray 2 madeleine pans with cooking spray

2 In a large bowl, whisk together granulated sugar, zest, and eggs In a medium bowl, whisk together fl our, baking powder, and salt Add

fl our mixture to sugar mixture, stirring just until combined Add butter and vanilla in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly, until batter becomes cohesive Cover, and refrigerate until completely cooled, at least 2 hours

3 Spoon batter by teaspoonfuls into prepared pans Bake until golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes Let cool in pans for 5 minutes Dust with confectioners’ sugar, and serve immediately

Bitter with bright acidity, this oversized citrus works well in baking because it pairs beautifully with vanilla

grapefruit

Grapefruit Soufflés with Grapefruit Crème Anglaise

page 37

The citrus darling of the kitchen: an

extremely versatile cross between a

lemon and a mandarin orange that

yields lots of juice (without the harsh

acidic bite) and has very little pith.

meyer lemon

Linzer Cookies with Meyer Lemon Curd

page 37

GRAPEFRUIT SOUFFLÉS WITH

GRAPEFRUIT CRÈME ANGLAISE

Makes 12

The key to a successful souffl é is confi dence This

recipe is approachable enough for the novice

souffl é-maker, and will have you whipping up the

tallest, fl uffi est, most delicious souffl és in no time

Serve warm from the oven Break the top of the

souffl é gently tableside and pour crème anglaise

liberally into the center

2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter,

plus more for preparing ramekins

¼ cup (50 grams) plus 2 tablespoons (25

grams) sugar, divided, plus more for

dusting ramekins

8 egg yolks

2 tablespoons (16 grams) all-purpose fl our

2 tablespoons grapefruit zest

1 cup whole milk

¼ cup fresh grapefruit juice

10 egg whites, room temperature

¼ teaspoon (1 gram) kosher salt

Grapefruit Crème Anglaise (recipe follows)

1 Preheat oven to 400° Grease 12 (8-ounce)

ramekins with butter, and coat with sugar

2 In a large bowl, whisk together egg yolks,

fl our, zest, and 2 tablespoons (25 grams) sugar

In a medium saucepan, bring milk to a boil

over medium-high heat Remove from heat

Add about ½ cup hot milk to egg yolk mixture,

whisking constantly Add egg yolk mixture

to remaining hot milk, whisking to combine

Return mixture to pan, and cook, stirring

constantly, until mixture is thickened, 1 to 2

minutes Strain mixture through a fi ne-mesh

sieve, and whisk in butter and grapefruit juice

3 In the bowl of a stand mixer fi tted with the

whisk attachment, beat egg whites at

medium-high speed until foamy Gradually add salt and

remaining ¼ cup (50 grams) sugar, beating

at high speed until soft peaks form, 3 to 5

minutes Gently fold egg white mixture into egg

yolk mixture in 3 batches

4 Fill each souffl é dish with batter, smoothing tops with an off set spatula or butter knife Run

a thumb around the edge of each ramekin to create a lip and to allow for maximum rise Bake

on a rimmed baking sheet until souffl és are risen and golden brown, 16 to 18 minutes Serve immediately with Grapefruit Crème Anglaise

Grapefruit Crème Anglaise

Makes about 1 cup

1 cup heavy whipping cream

⅓ cup (80 grams) sugar

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and reserved

2 tablespoons grapefruit zest

2 large egg yolks

1 In a medium saucepan, cook cream, sugar, vanilla bean, and zest over medium-high heat, whisking constantly, until mixture begins to simmer Remove from heat

2 In a medium bowl, whisk egg yolks Add about ½ cup hot cream mixture to egg yolks, whisking constantly Add egg yolk mixture

to remaining hot cream mixture, whisking to combine Strain mixture through a fi ne-mesh sieve, discarding solids Return mixture to pan, and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon

3 Refrigerate before serving over Grapefruit Souffl és

LINZER COOKIES WITH MEYER LEMON CURD

Makes 36

Meyer lemons are slightly sweeter and less acidic than standard lemons and render a curd that’s nothing short of magical We love it sandwiched between cookies, but it’s equally good smeared on an English muffi n or eaten directly off the spoon.

2¼ cups (325 grams) all-purpose fl our

1 cup blanched almonds

½ cup (116 grams) granulated sugar

1 tablespoon Meyer lemon zest

½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt

½ teaspoon cinnamon

½ teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg

1 cup (226 grams) cold unsalted butter

½ teaspoon vanilla extractConfectioners’ sugar, for dustingMeyer Lemon Curd (recipe follows)

1 In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse together fl our, almonds, granulated sugar, zest, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg until almonds are

fi nely ground Add butter and vanilla, and pulse until mixture is crumbly

2 Turn out dough, and knead until it comes together Shape dough into a disk, and wrap in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least 2 hours

3 Preheat oven to 325° Line baking sheets with parchment paper

4 Roll dough to ⅛-inch thickness between two sheets of parchment paper Using a 2½-inch round cutter, cut dough, rerolling scraps as necessary Using a ¾-inch fl uted round cutter, cut centers from half of cookies Place on prepared pans

5 Bake until golden brown, 13 to 15 minutes

Let cool completely

6 Sprinkle cookies with cutouts with confectioners’ sugar, if desired Spread 2 teaspoons Meyer Lemon Curd on fl at side of all solid cookies Place cookies with cutouts, fl at side down, on top of fi lling Serve immediately

Meyer Lemon Curd

Makes 1½ cups

½ cup (100 grams) sugar, divided

3 tablespoons Meyer lemon zest

2 Return mixture to pan, and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened, 3 to 4 minutes

Whisk in butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until incorporated Let cool completely in refrigerator Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week b

A relative of the mandarin that’s smaller, sweeter, and easier to peel than a regular orange It imparts the delicate essence of orange without overpowering baked goods.

tangerine

winter 2016 38

Tangerine Madeleines page 34

Forget chocolate or lemon poppy seed. It’s time to up your muffin gam e.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON

PHOTO STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES

Mu in

Magic