Brounout printing - Step by step printing process of burn out print

There are many kinds of print we can do on the clothes or fabric.. These kinds of print are more costly than basic normal print.. The printing factory makes this print with the flat bed

BROUNOUT PRINTING

Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir ID: 2010000400008

13th Batch (session 2009-2013) Department : Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com

Blog : www Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)

Southeast University Department Of Textile Engineering I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh

Prepared By :

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Textile printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite patterns or designs In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fiber, so as to resist washing and friction Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing proper the whole fabric

is uniformly covered with one colour, in printing one or more colours are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns

Nowadays print is a very very important thing for this textile sector Print makes clothes attractive We can’t imagine a dress or clothes without print Printing sector is also expanding and changing every day with the fashion trend We are discovering new technique and qualities of print day by day Print technology is growing up with the Clothes industry 99% fashion clothes are now must have any print on it

There are many kinds of print we can do on the clothes or fabric Some print very basic and normal, these prints are very cheap also But some print is very critical and rare These kinds of print are more costly than basic normal print But print makes a dress or clothes attractive and salable

The following article contains with a rare, critical and costly print The name of this print is Burnout print This is a rare quality print Burnout print is also very expensive too It's a very nice quality print

INTRODUCTION

Burn-out textiles is a technique used to develop raised designs on fabric surface This

is primarily being done in fabrics with at least 2 different fibre content i.e

Cotton-Polyester, Silk-Rayon etc Here one fibre component is being dissolved thru chemical reactions while the other content remains intact giving away raised illusion designs The printing factory makes this print with the flat bed printing machine The printing way of this print is same as a normal flat bed print, just printer’s use acid type

chemical instead of color

We can do this print only some selected fabric This print is not possible on 100%

cotton fabric The best composition for this burn out print is 60% polyester and 40% cotton fabric This print is also possible on 60% cotton and 40% polyester

The main technique of burnout print is destroys the cotton portion of the fabric with Acid / Chemical When the chemical flows over the fabric and contact with cotton portion, then it burn out the cotton by chemical reaction Actually cotton is the victim here

BURNOUT PRINTING

In the image of the print we will clearly see the Polyester and cotton part.

BURNOUT PRINTING

Cotton Portion had blue where as polyester is having no color So, during burn out cotton burns down leaving only polyester portion resultantly only white shade on burnt region and a wonderful pattern appears

The technology uses cotton/polyester blended fabric where cotton portion from the blended fabric is burned leaving behind the polyester portion only, according to the desired designs by means of rotary printing machine and thus providing the fabric a textured look

Step by step printing process of burn out print 1st Step: Develop the print design and screen with the buyer provided artwork

2nd Step: Knit the fabric with the yarn of following composition

a) 60% polyester 40% cotton OR b) b) 40% polyester 60% cotton Or similar like that

3rd Step: After complete the kitting of fabric send the gray or scouring fabric to printing factory

4th Step: Perform the print on this fabric Here, the cotton part will be destroyed by the acid but polyester portion will be remaining same

5th Step: Then we will dye and finished the fabric as per our require color

 Synthrapol

 Sodium bisulfate

 Guar gum

 PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash

 Glycerin & Water

Chemicals other than Sodium Bisulfate were also tested for this experiment e.g

1 Sulfuric acid Full Black Effect (No Burning)

2 Sodium Hydrosulfite (No Burning)

3 Sodium Bisulfite (No Burning)

Chemicals of Burn out Printing

1 Scour the fabric by machine washing in HOT 140oF (60oC) water, or by hand in a pot

on the stove with (2 gm) PRO Dye Activator and (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound of fabric (454 gm, or 3 to 4 yards cotton muslin, or 8 yards 8mm China Silk, or 3 Medium T-shirts, or 1 sweatshirt) Rinse thoroughly This step does not add the dye fixative to the fabric; it prepares the fabric for dyeing by removing any dirt, oil or sizing

2 Mix the thickener paste a few hours, or even the day before use it In a large plastic or

stainless steel bowl, measure 2 cups (500 ml) of room temperature 75o to 95oF (24o

to 35oC) water In a separate dry container measure a 1/3 cup (50 gm) of guar gum Using a blender or hand mixer, starts blending just the water, then gradually add the guar gum Continue blending until well mixed Allow to stand several hours or overnight for a smooth paste

Procedure

Equipment

 Blender or hand mixer

3 Make the burn-out paste just before you are ready to use it Measure cup plus 2 Tbl (220 ml) of 100oF (38oC) water and dissolve cup (200 gm) of sodium bisulfate in the water Remember to always add the acid to the water, as a safety precaution Once the sodium bisulfate is dissolved, add a cup (80 ml) of glycerin and the thickener paste made in step 2 Mix thoroughly using your blender or hand mixer Discard the burn out paste after three days

4 Prepare a padded surface to print on If we do not have a padded print table, we can create a padded surface by laying down a terry cloth towel on your work table and taping it in place with masking tape Cover the terry cloth towel with plastic or a canvas drop cloth Then secure your fabric with masking tape on the plastic, or with T-pins on the canvas drop cloth

5 Apply the burn-out paste to the fabric Screen print, stencil, or apply the burn-out paste freehand, with foam or bristle brush Make sure the burn-out paste penetrates through

to the back of the fabric The best paste penetration is achieved by screen printing, followed by stenciling, and then freehand applications When working on silk/rayon velvet, it is best to print on the back side of the fabric rather than the pile It is important to sample your method of application before working on large projects, to make sure the fabric will burn-out successfully

6 Allow the fabric to air dry thoroughly We can also speed up the drying by using a hair

dryer

7 Carefully remove the burned out (carbonized) areas of your fabric by one of the

methods listed below This part can be messy, so work outside if possible and always wear a cartridge respirator to avoid inhaling the small fibers

 Gently hands wash the fabric

 Gently brush off the burned out fiber by hand

 Use a small hand held vacuum

8 Wash thoroughly with warm 110oF (44oC) water by hand or machine wash on gentle

cycle with tsp (2.5ml) Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of fabric Rinse thoroughly and hang to dry

NOTE :

* Curing time and temperature are needed to be pre tested (Lab Trial), some time while using light blends, Polyester portion also get damaged So, consequently no good print One can

choose one of these temperatures and times

1 160C @ 5Min

2 180C @ 2Min

3 200C @ 1Min

1 Burnout print is not possible on 100% cotton fabric Clothes should be PC or CVC

2 60% polyester 40% cotton is the best composition for Burnout print

3 Process loss is very high More than 35%

4 Single jersey construction is the best construction for Burnout print

5 If you need the finished fabric with 120 to 130 GSM then you should knit the fabric with 160 to 170 GSM

6 Burnout print is not only expensive but also lucrative with nice feelings

Some important points regarding the Burnout print

Burnout on Garment

Burnout is a great effect It is adorable and seems pretty Synthetic thickeners are usually polysaccharide based and normally used in disperse printing of Polyester Fabrics This thickener is readily available in market It is not something like special thickener

Remarks

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