FASHION DRAPING TECHNIQUES a STEP BY STEP VISUAL GUIDE TO FASHION DESIGN

Cross mark the center back neck line position 3 inches below the top of the fabric on the center back grain line.. Pin and drape the back cross grain line of the fabric to the shoulder b

F ASHION D RAPING

TECHNIQUES

A STEP-BY-STEP VISUAL GUIDE TO FASHION DESIGN

PRESENTED BY : KHUSHBOO KHUNTWAL

B Sc FT 1ST YEAR DIPLOMA FASHION TECHNOLOGY

SUBMITTED TO DEZYEN E’ COLE COLLEGE TOWARDS

PRACTICAL FULFILLMENT FOR THE AWARDS

OF ADVNCE DIPLOMA IN FASHION TECHNOLOGY

SUBMITTED BY KHUSHBOO KUHNTWAL ADVANCE DIPLOMA IN FASHION TECNOLOGY

ADVISER MADHURI TANDON DEZYNE E’ COLE COLLEGE AJMER 2010-2011

BASIC BODICE BLOCK

PREPARING THE FABRC-FRONT

1 Measure length for the front bodice along the straight of

grain from the neck band to the waist and add 5inches Snip and tear the fabric this length

2 Measure the width for the front bodice along the cross grain from the center front of the dress from to the side seam at the bust level and add 5 inches Snip and tear the fabric this width block and press the fabric at this time

3 Draw the center front grain line 1”inches from the edge

Press under

NOTE: - The selvage is to your left hand and the torn edge is

to your right hand

4 Using on l-square ruler, draw a perfect cross grain line in the center of the fabric panel

This cross grain line will be referred to as the bus level line

1 Measure on the dress from the distance from the center front to the apex Measure and cross mark the apex this distance the bust level of the fabric

2 Measure from the apex to the side seam at the bust level on the dress form Measure and cross mark this side seam

distance on the bust level of the fabric

3 Draw the center of the princess panel line Divide in half the distance from the apex to the side seam at the bust level

Using an l-square ruler, draw a line parallel to the center front grain line at this divided position squaring down from the bust level

BASIC BODICE BLOCK

DRAPING STEPS- FRONT

1 Pin the center of the princess panel line of the fabric exactly

in the center of the princess panel of the dress form Anchor

pins at the waist line and the cross grain Align a pin the

from cross grain

NOTE:- The purpose for centering the princess panel line is

to be sure the cross grain line is perfectly aligned check that

the length wise grain is parallel to center front and

perpendicular to the cross grain

2 Clip the waist line fabric at the center of the princess panel

From the bottom edge up to the waist seam tape

3 The excess fabric between the center front waist positions

becomes the front waist dart Drape and pin the excess

fabric in place on the princess seam as the front waist dart Excess fabric is folded toward the center front

4 Smooth and drape the reminder of the waist line fabric

across the waist tape till the fabric passes the side seam pin

the side seam waist corner Also drape the reminder of the

front side seam pass the side seam and flat arm plate Pin in

place

5 Drape the neckline by trimming the excess fabric around the

neck area and clipping at internals Smooth the neckline in

place Drape and smooth the fabric over the shoulder seam

of the dress form Just pass the princess seam pin in place

6 The excess fabric that falls between the neckline and the

shoulder/ armhole area becomes the amount of the

shoulder dart this amount various from one bust size to

another

1 Fold and pin this excess fabric on the shoulder princess seam of the dress from The excess fabric is folded towards the center front neck

2 Mark all key areas of the dress form to the fabric

1 Neck line Cross mark at center front neck and at neckline corner lightly mark reminder of neck line

2 Shoulder seam and shoulder dart

a.)Top at shoulder seam ridge

b.) Middle at screw level

c.) Cross mark bottom at side seam

3 Waist line and waist dart

4 Side seam lightly mark cross mark center front waist at Side Seam and both side of the dart

BASIC BODICE BLOCK

PREPARING THE FABRIC- BACK

1 Measure length for the back bodice along the straight of grain from the neck band to the waist and add 5 inches

2 Measure the width of for the back bodice along the cross grain from the center back seam at the under arm and add 5 inches

3 Draw the center back grain line 1“from the torn edge and press under

1 Cross mark the center back neck line position 3 inches below

the top of the fabric on the center back grain line

2 Measure down 41/4” from the back neck line mark Using an

l-square ruler draw a perfect cross grain line at this position

(This is considered the shoulder blade level)

NOTE:-This 41/4” measurement represents one fourth of

the distance from center back neck to waist for a size 8 or 10

women’s figure

Also, measure the distance from center back to the arm

plate at the shoulder level of the dress from Measure and

cross mark this back shoulder distance on the fabric at the

shoulder blade level line

BASIC BODICE BLOCK

DRAPING STEPS – BACK

1 Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric to the center

back position on the dress from

Align the neck line position mark of the fabric to the center

back neck position on the dress from

2 Pin and drape the back cross grain line of the fabric to the

shoulder blade level on the dress from Pin the arm plate

cross mark ¼” away from plate (At armhole ridge) Distribute excess ease along shoulder blade level

NOTE:-This line is correctly draped in to position when the drape

hangs freckly and evenly without any drag or pulled

down look Also, the lower edge of the drape shoulder hangs parallel to the floor

1 Drape in the back waist line dart (7”long and 11/4”wide)

Smooth the fabric towards the side seam till the fabric

passes the princess seam

Cross mark at the princess/ Waist seam measure and cross mark 7” up from the waist line on the back princess seam

At the waist line fold the princess seam cross mark to the

11/4” mark Taper the dart to nothing at the 7”mark

2 Clip the waist line fabric at the center of the princess panel

up to the button of the waist seam tape Smooth the fabric across the waist tape till the fabric passes the side seam Pin

at the side seam/ waist corner

3 Drape the back side seam by smoothing the fabric pat the

side seam and flat over the dress from pin in place

4 Drape and smooth the back neck line by carefully trimming the excess fabric around the neck area and clipping at

intervals Continue to smooth the fabric over the shoulder of the dress form and pin in place

5 Drape in the back shoulder dart (3”long and ½”wide) straight

at the neck line Smooth the fabric over the shoulder seam

of the dress form to the princess seam and cross mark on

the princess seam at the shoulder, measure towards the

armhole ½” and cross mark Also on the princess seam

measure down 3” from the shoulder seam Fold the fabric

from the shoulder seam cross mark to the ½” cross mark

Taper the dart to nothing at the 3” cross mark

6 Mark all key area of the dress from to the fabric

· Neck line

Cross mark at center back neck and at neck line/

shoulder corner Lightly mark remainder of neck line

· Shoulder seam and shoulder dart

· Lightly mark shoulder seam and cross mark shoulder dart and shoulder ridge corner

· Arm plate

a) Top at shoulder seam ridge

b) Middle at screw level

c) Bottom at the side seam cross mark

· Side seam – lightly mark

· Waist line and waist dart seam waist and both side of the dart

Check the drape by spinning the front and back side seam and front and back shoulder seam together before

proceeding to the next steps

1 Remove the fabric from the dress from and lay flat on table

If you are planning to true up the fabric on the paper

complete the following steps

a) Draw in the straight of grain and cross grain on the

pattern paper Place the fabric on top of the paper

Notching the straight of grain and cross grain

b) With a trace wheel, transfer all the fabric markings on the paper

2 Draw a short go degree angle at-

Center front neck (1/4”)

Center front waist (1/2”)

Center back neck (1”)

Center back waist (1”)

1 Draw in the front darts using a straight ruler

Front waist darts (1” from the open through the waist dart cross mark)

Front shoulder dart (1” from the open through the shoulder dart cross mark)

Back waist dart (vanishing point through waist dart cross

mark)

Back shoulder dart (vanishing point to back waist dart

through shoulder dart connect other shoulder dart cross

2 Fold the fabric from selvage to selvage and snip and tear the fabric piece in half length wise

Use one piece for the front panels and the other piece for the back panel

1 Measure the width for the center front panel (along the

cross grain) from the center front of the dress from to the princess seam at the apex, and add 4”

Using one of the fabric pieces prepared in step 2, snip and tear the fabric this width

Use the remaining front piece for the side front panel

2 Measure the width for the center back panel from the

center back of the dress from to the back princess seam at the shoulder blade level

And add 4” Using the second fabric piece prepared in step 2 snip and tear the fabric this width

Use the remaining back fabric piece for the side back panel

3 Draw the grain line for the center front panel 1” from the

torn edge press under

4 Draw the cross grain line for the front panel in the center of the both panel

5 Measure the dress form from center front to the apex,

measure and cross mark the apex this distance of the cross grain line

6 Draw the grain line for the center back panel 1” from the

torn edge Press under

Draw the grain line for the side back panel in the center of the fabric piece

7 Draw the cross grain line for both back panels 8” from the top of the fabric edge

THE PRINCESS BODICEBLOCK

DRAPING STEPS

CENTER FRONT PANEL

1 Pin the apex cross marks on the fabric to the apex position

on the dress from

2 Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric to the center position of the dress from

Anchor pins at center front neck and center front waist An additional pin may be needed at the bust level tape

3 Drape the neck line trimming the excess fabric around the

neck area and clipping at intervals Smooth the neck line in

SIDE FRONT PRINCESS PANEL

1 Pin the grain line of the side front panel to the center of the front princess panel on the dress from matching the cross grain of the side seam bust panel to the cross grain of the

center front panel

Anchors pins on the cross grain at the bust level Place

another anchor pin on the straight of grain at the waist line

1 Clip the waist line at the center of the front princess panel

up to the bottom of the waist line seam tape

Drape and smooth the waist line on place

2 From the grain line to the side front panel smooth the fabric past the side seam of the dress from do not allow the grain line to slip out of position Pin the side seam in place

3 Drape the shoulder by carefully smoothing the excess fabric above the bust level up and over the dress from

NOTE: - The grain line will look as if it is angled toward the neck line

4 Smooth the fabric over the princess seam add pin the

princess seam in place

NOTE: - The excess fabric will drape over the bust level area creating ease at the princess seam between the notches

5 Mark all key areas of the dress from on the side front panel Princess seam and style line notches (match the center front panel notches)

Arm plate

Shoulder seam at ridge

Middle of plate at screw level

Bottom of plate at side seam

Shoulder seam

Side seam

Waist line

1 Remove the side front panel from the dress from and true

up all the lines Add seam allowance

Trim excess fabric, leaving all seams allowance Pin to front panel and return to check seam notches and balance

THE PRINCESS BODICEBLOCK

DRAPING STEPS

CENTER BACK PRINCESS PANNEL

1 Pin the center back grain line fold of the fabric to the center

back position of the dress from

Align and line the cross grain to the shoulder blade level of the dress from

1 Drape and smooth the back waist line from center back to just pass the princess seam Pin the waist line in place

2 Drape and smooth the back neck line by carefully trimming the excess fabric around the neck area and clipping at

intervals

Continue to smooth the fabric over the shoulder of the dress from and pin in place

1 Mark all key areas of the dress from on the center back

2 Remove the center back panel drape from and true up all

lines Add seam allowance trim all excess fabric, leaving all seam allowance Place this center back drape on the dress from

THE PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK

DRAPING STEPS

SIDE BACK PRINCESS PANEL

1 Pin the grain line of the side back panel to the center of the back princess panel on the dress from matching all cross

grain at the shoulder blade

2 Clip the waist line at the side back panel up to the bottom of the waist seam tape Smooth and pin the waist line in place

3 From the grain of the side back panel Smooth the fabric

past the side seam of the dress from Do not allow the grain line to slip out of position Pin the side seam in place

4 Drape the shoulder by smoothing the excess fabric from

above the shoulder level up and over the shoulder seam of the dress from

NOTE: - The grain line will look as if it is angle toward the

neck line (over the cross grain)

1 From the grain line of the side back panel smooth the fabric past the princess seam of the dress from Do not allow the grain line to slip out of position Pin the princess seam in

place

2 Mark all key areas of the dress from on the side back panel Princess seam and style line notches (match to center back panel double notches)

Arm plate

Shoulder seam at ridge

Middle of plate at screw level

Bottom of plate at side seam

Side waist

Waist line

3 Remove the drape from and true up all lines Add seam

allowance trim all excess fabric, leaving all seam allowance Pin the entire garment together and place the drape on the dress from check for accuracy fit and hang

THE TORSO LENGTH PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK

DRAPING THE FABRIC

1 Measure the length for the front and back panel (along the straight grain) from the neck band to the hip area and add 5” Snip the tear the fabric this length

2 Fold the fabric from salvage to salvage snip and tear the

fabric piece in half length wise

Use one piece for the front panel and the other piece for the back panel

3 Measure the width for the center panel (along the cross

grain) from front of the dress from to the princess seam at the open and add 5”

Snip and tear the fabric this width use the remaining fabric piece for the side front panel

4 Draw the grain line for the center front panel 1” from the

torn edge Press under

5 Draw the grain line for the side front panel in the center of the fabric piece

6 Draw the cross grain lines for the front and side front panel 12” from the top edge of the fabric

7 Measure the dress from center front to the open Measure and cross mark the apex This distance on the center front panel on the cross grain line

8 Draw the grain line for the center back panel 1” from the

torn edge Press under

Draw the grain line for the side back panel, in the center of the fabric piece

9 Draw the cross grain line for both back panels 8" From the top of the fabric edge

THE TORSO LENGTH PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK

DRAPING STEPS

CENTER FRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL

1 Pin the open cross mark on the fabric to the open position

on the dress from

2 Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric on the center position of the dress from Anchor pins at center front neck and center front hip An additional pin may be needed at the bust level tape

3 Drape the neck line by trimming the excess fabric around

the neck area and clipping a intervals Smooth the neck line

NOTE: - The fabric at the waist line will be smooth but not

SIDE FRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL

1 Pin the grain line of the side front panel to the center of the front princess panel on the dress from notching the cross

grain of the side bust panel to the cross grain at the bust

level Place another anchor pin on the straight of grain at the waist line

2 Clip the waist line at the side seam of the side front panel From the grain line of the side front panel Smooth the fabric past the side seam

Continue to smooth the fabric flat over the arm plate Do

not allow the grain line to slip out of position Pin the side

seam in place

1 Drape the shoulder by carefully smoothing the excess fabric above the bust level up and over the shoulder of the dress from

NOTE: - The grain line will look as if it is angled toward the neck line above the bust level

2 Clip the waist line at the princess seam smooth the fabric

over the princess seam and pin in place

NOTE: - The excess fabric will drape over the bust level area creating ease at the princess seam between the notches

3 Mark all key area of the dress from on the side front panel

a.) Princess seam and style line notches (match to center

front panel notches)

b.) Arm plate

Shoulder seam at ridge

Middle of plate at screw level Bottom of plot at side seam

c.) Shoulder seam

d.) Side seam

4 Remove the side front panel from the dress from and true

up all lines Add seam allowance

Trim all excess fabric, leaving all seam allowance pin to front panel front and place on the dress from to check seams,

notches and balance

THE TORSO LENGTH PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK

DRAPING STEPS

SIDE FRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL

1 Pin the grain line of the side back panel to the center of back princess panel on the dress form matching all cross grain at the shoulder blade level

2 Clip the waist line at the side seam Drape and smooth fabric past the side seam and flat over the dress form Pin in place

3 Drape the shoulder by smoothing the excess fabric from

above the shoulder blade level up and over the shoulder

seam of the dress form

NOTE: - The grain line will look as if it is angled toward the neckline (above the cross grain)

4 Clip the waist line at the princess seam of the side back

panel From the grain line of the side back panel Smooth

the fabric past the princess seam of the dress form Do not allow the grain line to slip out of position Pin the princess seam in place

5 Mark all key areas of the dress form on the side back

Panel

- Princess seam and style line notches

(Match to center back panel double notches)

- Arm plate

- Shoulder seam at ridge

- Middle of plate at screw level