Different types of sewing machines

What is Sewing Machine?• A sewing machine is a machine used to stitch fabric and other materials together with thread.. • A sewing machine is a textile machine used to stitch fabric, c

Ashikur Rahman Ranok

Bgmea University of fashion &

Technology(BUFT)

What is Sewing Machine?

• A sewing machine is a machine used to stitch

fabric and other materials together with thread.

• A sewing machine is a machine which does all

the stitches automatically, so it's easier and quicker than hand stitching.

• A sewing machine is a textile machine used to

stitch fabric, cards and other material together with thread.

1 Basic sewing machines in garments industry are used for numerous applications.

2 Generally available in three versions :

i Sewing with light materials.

ii Sewing with medium materials.

iii Sewing with heavy materials.

3 Speed up to 6000 s.p.m with electronic controls for acceleration.

4 Electronically controlled thread cutting, needle positioning, back tacking mechanism through the foot pedal, foot lifting system available in this machines.

5 Programmable sewing sequence via a micro processes for repetitive operation.

6 A great variety of feed systems, attachments and apparatus available to make the machine more versatile.

Features of Basic Sewing Machines

According to the operating system, there are two types of

sewing machines:

1 Manually operated sewing machines :

 Driven by physical energy.

 Used for domestic and tailoring purposes.

 Less production, but more laborious.

Electrically operated/Industrial Sewing

Machines

 At present there are used two types of electrically operated

sewing machines in garments industry :

o Semi-automatic electrical sewing machines.

o Computerized sewing machines.

 Most common manufacturer of electrical/industrial sewing

machines (semi-automatic) are given below: Brand Name Made in

JUKI Japan BROTHER Japan SINGER England BUTTERFLY China SiRUBA Taiwan

 There are various types of electrically operated or

o No of needle : generally 1 needle or 2 needles.

o SPM : 1500 – 5500.

o Stitch Length : 5 mm in Juki DDL 5500 Model.

o Automatic thread cutting and bobbin winding.

o Edge cutting system.

o More secured sewing.

o Most commonly used for sewing of woven

garments.

1 Lock Stitch or Plain Stitch Sewing Machine

Fig 1 : Lock Stitch Machine

o Two types : Single Chain Stitch and

Double Chain Stitch.

o No of needle: One or more

o No of thread : One or more

o SPM : 1800 – 6000

o Stitch Length : 1.4 mm to 4.5 mm

o Automatic thread trimmer.

o Various types of feed mechanism is

adjusted to the machine.

o Used for both woven and knitted fabrics,

specially to sew jeans or denim wears.

2 Chain Stitch Sewing Machine

Fig 2 : Chain Stitch

Machine

• No of needle: 1 or 2.

• No of threads : 2 - 5.

• SPM : 6500 – 8500.

• Stitch Length : 4mm (maximum) and it

can be adjusted by push button.

• Stretching : Maximum 1: 0.6 and

Gathering : Maximum 1:4

• Used for sewing both woven and knitted

goods, but extensively used for knitted goods.

3 Over Lock/Over Edge Sewing Machine

Fig 3 : Over Lock/Over Edge Sewing

Machine

 Special modification of lock stitch

garments, such as elastic, tape, pipe etc.

4 Zigzag Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

Fig-4 : Zigzag Lock Stitch Sewing

Machine

 No of needle: up to 4

 No of threads : 4 to 9

 SPM : 6000

 Stitch Density: 8 to 16 per inch

 Thread consumption of this machine

is very high So very expensive

machine.

 Used for knitted garments But it can

be also used for woven garments.

5 Flat Lock Sewing Machine

Fig-5 : Flat Lock Sewing Machine

 Curved needle is used.

 Security is high for 2 thread blind stitch

machine.

 Very expensive.

 Widely used for hemming and facing attaching.

6 Blind Stitch Sewing Machine

Fig-6 : Blind Stitch Sewing Machine

 Stitch Group : Lock or Chain may be used.

 For heavy fabric, hole is cut before

sewing.

 For lighter fabric, hole is cut after sewing.

 Arrangement of stitch density being

increased or reduced.

 To raise the stitch is called ‘Gimp’.

7 Button Holing Machine

Fig-7 : Button Holing Machine

 Produces lock stitch, chain stitch or hand stitch.

 Button positioning can be automatic.

 Sewing is according to the hole in button and may be cross or parallel.

 In fully automatic machines, button feeding and positioning inside the button clamp is performed by a hopper and pipe.

8 Button Attaching Machine

Fig-8 : Button Attaching

Machine

 Cyclic machine of strong sewing in very short length.

 After making tack stitch in short length (1-2cm), cover stitch (zigzag) is made on tack stitch and the no of cover stitch.

 Used for sewing of belt loops, closing the ends of button holes, for increasing strength at the ends of the pocket.

9 Bar Tack Machine

Fig-9 : Bar Tack Machine

 Used for very fast and accurate sewing.

 Very expensive and require very efficient operator, so

rarely used in our country.

 Some examples of mostly used computerized sewing

machines are given below :

• Computer Controlled Cycle Machine with large Sewing

Area.

• Cylinder Bed Machine with Automatic threads Trimming.

• 1-Needle, lock stitch unison feed machine with double

capacity.

• 1-Needle, lock stitch portable Sewing machine with

Automatic thread Trimmer.

• 2-Needle, 2/3/4 thread over lock sewing machine with

built-in rolled hemming and differential feed.

• Automatic Jeans pocket setter with new automatic bobbin winder/changer.

• 3-Needle, plain feed double loop seam machine with

Tractor type presser foot.

• High speed, lockstitch, buttonhole machine.

Computerized Sewing Machine

Fig-10 : Computerized Sewing

Machine

The following maintenance points are to be considered

carefully:

1 Machine should be cleaned every day.

2 Essential parts of the machine should be lubricated or oiled regularly.

3 Needle should be adjusted carefully.

4 Needle thread, bobbin thread or looper thread should be

threaded correctly and their tension should be adjusted.

5 The pressure of pressure of pressure foot should be adjusted

6 Stitch density should be adjusted.

7 Switching (on/off) should be proper.

8 Machine should be handled according to instruction.

9 The hand wheel should always be rotated towards the

operator.

10.Bobbin thread should be wound in uniform tension.

11.During fabric feed and with drawl, the needle should be

picked at the top most position and the pressure foot is

Thanks to All