Thesis on apparel merchandising

Apparel Washing : Apparel Washing is the process to remove dirt and dust grey or color garments by chemical to get good appearance and distinct performance of apparel.Normal Wash : Wash

Thesis on apparel merchandising

Md.Azmeri Latif Beg

Dr Mashiur Rahaman Khan(MRK)

M.Sc Engr.(Textile)Ph.D (Leeds)

Associate Professor

Bangladesh University of Textile (BUTEX)

Color, Fabric & Apparel

Specialist

B.Sc & M.Sc Engr.(Textile)

Bangladesh is an under developing Country The development and progress of the country largely depends on export performance In case of Bangladesh among the export sectors the ready-made garments(RMG) are the main earning source of foreign currency In the garment and Textile industry, merchandisers have been playing

a vital role for the execution of export orders There are large number of merchandising personnel who are working in the garment and textile sub-sectors

In Eastern Europe, particularly in Russia, the term “merchandising”

Basically a merchandiser is someone who is continuously involved in business promotion by buying and selling

of goods

The merchandiser is the person whose responsibility is to execute the orders perfectly as per the costing and pricing

E.AZMIR 01736569520

Types & Highlights work of Merchandising

Two type of merchandising done in garment exports

1 Marketing merchandising 2 Product merchandising.

work of Merchandising

plays a vital role in an organization in a sense that he bears more responsibility than other in regards to execution of an order.

Key responsibility of Merchandising

 Product Development

 Market and product Analysis

 Selling the concept

 Accessories & trims

 Preparing internal order sheets

 Preparing purchase orders

 Advising and assisting production,

 Advising quality department about quality level

 Mediating production and quality departments

 Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,

 Helping documentation department

 Taking responsibility for inspections

 Following up the shipment

Merchandiser Should Have Knowledge in following topics

Textile Fiber (two types)

Natural Fibers : (sheep, goats, camelids, etc.) or vegetable-based fibers (cotton, flax, linen, and other plant fibers) Mineral fibers (asbestos, etc)

Synthetic fibers : nylon, polyester, acetates

Yarn:

1 Single Yarn

a) Continuous Filament b) Spun Yarn C) Modified Continuous Filament

2 Multi-folded Yarn/ Ply Yarn 3 Cabled Yarn

4 Complex Yarn 5 Fancy Yarn

Yarn Count:

Count is a number of indicating the mass per unit length or length per unit mass of

yarn

Direct System (Length Fixed):

A). Tex B) Denier C) Pounds Per Spindle:

2.Indirect System ( Weight Fixed):

A). English Cotton Count B) Metric Count C) Worsted count:

SAMPLE WOVEN FABRIC

Buckram Denim

Kashmir Silk Buckram

Sample of knitting fabric

Boiled wool Single knits Four-way stretch knits

Sample of knitting fabric

Two-way stretch knits Power net Milanese

Technical Support for merchandiser

Dyeing: Dyeing is the process of adding color to Textile

products like fibers, yarns, and fabrics.

Types of Dye & Use:

Disperse Dye polyester, acetate, other synthetics

Reactive Dye cotton, other cellulosic's, wool

Different Types Of Printing

Roller Printing Direct Printing Duplex Printing

Different Types Of Printing

Resist Printing Stencil Printing Spray Painting

Garment Finish

 Pre –Shrinking Finish: Pre-shirking is needed almost on all fabrics because most textile materials shrink

when washed.

 Softening Finish: Fabric softening is generally done together with desizing.

 Brush and Sanding Finish: In many cases we may finish the fabric by brushing or sanding to give them

smooth velvet–like or suede-like surface.

 Mercerizing and Singeing Finish: Singeing and mercerizing are in many cases related and done at the

same time Singeing is passing the fabric through a flame (fire) so that the hair and nubs of the fabric are burnt off to give it a clean surface.

 Resin Finish: Resin finish is to stabilize the fiber to make it shrinkage and crease resistant.

 Permanent Press Finish: Permanent Press Finish (P.P Finish) is generally done on TC fabrics;.

 Water Repellent Finish: Water repellant finish is different from water proof finish It means water, if

showered on the fabric briefly, cannot make the fabric wet.eg Rain coat, Umbrella.

 Water Proof Finish: water cannot showered into the fabric by this finish even air cannot pass easily.eg

Tripol, Hose pipe treat by fats, wax, rubber etc.

 Peach Skin Finish: Peach skin is a smooth finish applied to finely woven Micro Fiber fabric.

 Soil Release Finish: Repel the stains and soil using repellants such as flour chemicals or create a surface

that aids the removal of soils when cleaning or laundering using chemicals based on poly-acrylic acid.

 Fire Retardant Finish: The finishing of fabrics with flame retardants can reduce the tendency to burn or

reduce the tendency to propagate the flame.

 Sanforization Finish: Shrinkage in garments is very important issue because when they shrink out of size,

they cannot be worn.

Apparel Washing : Apparel Washing is the process to remove dirt and dust grey or color garments by chemical to get good appearance and distinct performance of apparel.

Normal Wash : Wash in hot water (of about 40˚ c) added with softener and detergent for 5-15 minutes Ringed in plain water and dry in tumble dryer.

Acid Wash : Acid wash mainly use for heavy fabric like Jeans and Denim Acid wash is very common with stone Acid stone wash is very common term During acid wash pumic stone is used During

loading and unloading of the garments in the washing m/c counting of garment should be done to avoid double treatment of garment If garment is double treat , then the garments will be rejected.

Wrinkle Wash : By using wrinkle wash chemical (Emxopret Eco) wash the garment to get wrinkle effect on fabric of body After giving and applying chemical conditioning (by sun light) is done Finally

drying.

Pigment wash : The purpose of the pigment wash is to get the solid color to fade evenly in washing , leading a prominent wash effect on the garment Pigment wash needs 50˚ c to 60 ˚ c to wash Then rinse in plain water and dry in tumble dryer.

Stone wash : The idea of washing with porous volcanic stones is to give the garment a strong and rough wash to achieve the pronounced washed effect through abrasion on the exposed areas, such as seams

and pocket corners.

Enzyme Wash : Enzyme is one kind of bio catalyst which used to break some of the fibers on the surface in order to give the fabric soft ,sanded or “peached” effect If garment is made of indigo denim,

enzyme can replaced of stone, to give the denim a stone wash look, with better, nicer blue and white contrast on the surface.

Bleach Washing : Bleach wash is simple; you just have to add bleach to the water in the tumble for washing Washing time is very important because any garment over-bleached cannot be corrected.

Laundry Washing : This is one kind of home washing Apparel wash with some added of detergent at 30˚ c for 1.5 hours Finally squeeze and dried.

Monkey wash : It is one kind of dry wash By using sand blast it make fading effect in a certain period Specially this wash is done on the garments made from denim or jeans pant This wash occurred on a

pant by following monkey’s body, so it is called monkey wash.

Tinting (Tie) & Over Dyeing(Dip Dyeing) : In over dye, the garment should be put into tumble to dye into the color you want Direct or reactive dye depend on the dyed fabric or yarn which is used to

apply If you use direct dye cost will be save You must use color fixing agent after dyeing to make the color more stable.

Ring Wash : It is one kind of normal wash used for Woven garments In this wash process softener -1% and acid -0.5% are used at 40˚ c for10-20 minutes.

Stone Enzyme Wash : At present ,in our country maximum denim garment is washing by stone enzyme wash process You can achieve a distinct effect by combination of stone and enzyme Every process almost same ,but after desizing and hot wash stone

enzyme process is done.

Super White Wash/ Magic Wash : Super White Wash is done on the garments made from cotton grey fabrics Due to this type of wash garments become extremely white You should use Whitening/OBA/ Fluorescent powder in the finishing process to make the part whitener.

Silicon Wash : To soft the fabric silicon is used, but enzyme silicon wash and Stone silicon wash is more popular for providing softer feel and good drape to the polyester/ cellulosic blended fabric It also use Jean & Denim after enzyme or stone wash Silicon wash is popular for Sweater.

Caustic Wash : Caustic wash is very easy and common garments wash This process is done by two step First step is pigment wash and last one is caustic wash In this process , garment treat with caustic solution (NaOH) at 80 ˚ c for 1 hour 30 minutes

Sand Blasting : It is one kind of mechanical wash process It gives faded effect on garments made from heavy fabric like Denim & Jeans At present sand blasting is a very

popular garments wash, because of it is cheap and very good fading effect can be done The sand blasting process normally followed by a wash or dyeing process, The subsequent wash may be normal wash, bleach wash, enzyme wash, over dyeing etc For sand blasting ,nozzle (dia-1/1.5 mm) ,tunnel board, compressor and chemical

Al2O3 (sand) used Aluminum m oxide is used for sand blasting and imported from China Turkey Aluminum oxide looks like normal sand , but very hard and fine granular In this process fading is done on the premarked areas of the garments patterns or design by folding or blocking techniques The area of garments fabric surface is instantly faded by blowing action of Aluminum oxide due to frictional effect of Aluminum oxide

De luster Process : De luster is one kind of chemical washing which create faded effect and make dull of garments color It makes extra looking of garments, Manmade

fiber has a natural brightness By de luster process make the fiber semi dull or dull by white pigment i.e Tetanium di oxide For de luster process dyes which used for dyeing must have know before processing then choose de luster chemical For de luster of vat dyed fabric hydrous (Na2S2O4) & caustic soda (NaOH)is used

Garment Accessories & Trimmings

 ZIPPER/FASTENER

 SEWING THREAD

 LABELS : Main, Size, Care, Content, price, patch etc.

 BUTTON : Horn, Metal, Seed etc

 ELASTIC : Cotton, Polyester etc.

 EYELET : Antique Matching etc

 VELCRO : Hook & Pile

 STRING/CORD : Cotton, Polyester etc.

 PLASTIC CLIP

 TAGS : Price tag, Hand Tag

 STICKER : Hook & Pile

MERCHANDISING FUNCTION

Workflow of Sampling

Develop a Sample:

Sample is the physical form of buyer’s specification or style/design After draw a cache a sample is prepared for the buyers and sends

to the buyers Sampling may be in two ways

1 Sampling after confirmation price

2 Sampling before confirmation price For sampling a merchandiser need Fabrics, yarn, level, etc

Types of sample/Stages of sample:

1.1st pattern: The first physical version of any garment as per the artwork done by designer and/or developer

2 2nd pattern: Usually designer/ developer always asks for some changes to the first pattern Second pattern is made as per comments

3.Sales man sample:

Sample is made when PRICE is confirmed and orders are on speculation, usually in L size in all color combinations which is expected 

4.Production:

It is a reference to the buyer that the bulk is being produced as per specification Buyer wants to be assured that correct material is sourced and line workmanship confirm to the quality

Marketing/Developing sample:

5.Counter sample :(Based on buyer requirement,):

Where first pattern is made on designers artwork, Counter sample is to make not on designer’s artwork, has to follow another sample given by the merchandiser

6.Fit sample/red tag sample/ Proto type sample :

Samples are made with actual color and material to be worn by the models on the event of SHOOTING for catalog

7.Approval sample:

In any discrete period of time, whenever it required any revision in the sample, a new sample is made (some times mock-up is

workable too) as per new specification It is sent to buyer for his APPROVAL of the conformity that- the revision is done correctly

8.Preproduction sample/size set sample :

When material for bulk production arrived, factory makes a sample with the actual material and sends to buyer.

Workflow of Sampling

Measurement of a shirt

Fabric Consumption Calculation of a woven Shirt

Rules:

{1/2 Chest X (B length + Sleeve length)}X 2 / 36 / Fabric width + wastes %

Body length = Body length + Seam allowance (In case of wash garments, washing allowance to be added) Body width = Chest width + Seam allowance (In case of wash garments, washing allowance to be added) Sleeve Length = Sleeve length + Seam allowance (In case of wash garments, washing allowance to be added)

Suppose:

Body length = 32" + 1" (Seam Allowance ) = 33"

Sleeve length = 23" + 2.5" (Cuff width)

+ 1.5" (Seam Allowance) = 27"

1/2 Chest Width = 24" + 1" (S.A) + 3" Pleat width

= 28"

Formula: = {1/2 Chest X (B length + Sleeve length)}

X 2 / 36 / Fabric width + wastes %

= {28" X (33+27)} X 2 / 36 / 44 + 5%

= (28X60) X 2 / 36 / 44 + 5%

      = 2.22 YDS / PC

Fabric Consumption Calculation of a Knit T-Shirt

Rules:

{(B/length + S/length + Sewing Allowance) X (1/2 Chest + Sewing Allowance)}X 2 X GSM X 12 / 10000000 + Wastage%

Body Length + Sleeve Length + 10 (for folding {sleeve & bottom}) * (1/2 Chest width + 4 C.M.) * 2 / 10,000 * G.S.M (Gram per square meter) Range / 1000 * 12 + 10% (wastages) 

= K.G per Dozen

Body length of the garments in cm - 73 cm

Sleeve length of the garments in cm - 19.5 cm

Approximate sewing allowance at body hem, shoulder joint, sleeve hem & armhole joint (in cm) Say it is - 10 cm

Measurement of a pant(trouser)

Fabric Consumption Calculation of a pant(trosuer)

Fabric width-58 inches

=Out seam + allowance x Thigh + allowance x 4/36 x Fabric width

Sewing Thread consumption depends on some factor

10.Thead cutting System (Automatic/ manual)

Different Stitch type show different consumption formula,

Sewing Thread consumption

Find out thread consumption where seam thickness 0.02 inch, stitch per inch – 8,seam width-.25 inch, stitch type-504(over edge/lock three thread).

Consumption/Thread per inch= 3+4WS+4TS

= 3+4 X 25 X 8 + 4 X 0.02 X 8

=11.64 Inches

By considering above factors & stitch type we find some standard for following stitch and m/c

Stitch Type & Machine Required Thread in Inchs

2.Double needle/Two needle m/c Needs 5 inch thread for per inch Stitch

3.Over lock three thread m/c Needs 9 inch thread for per inch Stitch

4 Over lock four thread m/c Needs 12 inch thread for per inch Stitch

5 Over lock five thread m/c Needs 15 inch thread for per inch Stitch

6 Flat lock three thread m/c Needs 18 inch thread for per inch Stitch

7 Flat lock five thread m/c Needs 30 inch thread for per inch Stitch