Apparel merchandising southeast university

If you intending to produce the s/j cotton spandex fabric in between 155 to 165 GSM then please follow the below things: Fabric 95% cotton 5% spandex, Single Jersey, 160 GSM Yarn count

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Apparel-Merchandising

Job lists of a Merchandiser after negotiate the order

Learn Apparel Merchandising

He has to schedule the following main process to execute the export order perfectly on time

1 Fabric requirement calculations

2 Accessories requirement calculation Such as – Sewing thread, Button, Label, Poly bag, Carton etc

3 Sourcing of Fabrics

4 Confirm the possible date of arrival of fabrics & accessories in the garments factory

5 Garments Production Planning

6 Pre shipment inspection schedule

7 Shipping documents

All the main functions, mentioned above are important but the procurement of fabric & accessories are most important as because there are many technical parameters involved in specification in this area In most collection of fabric for the garments to be made is a major problem To procure a fabric we should clearly specify the technical specification of the fabric during placing a fabric supply order

Regards

Bipul

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Hope all of you are fine

Today I'm posting a price list of circular knit fabric in total 63 option I collect this price list from a very large knitting factory which is situated at Jamirdia, Masterbari, Valuka, Mymensingh, Bangladesh It's name NRG All the prices of this list

in Bangladeshi taka (per kg) You can easily convert it to US$ dollar by dividing with 72 to 75 Because current dollar

conversion rate is moving in between 72 to 75 taka That's mean US $1 = 72 taka

Pls e-mail me if you are still unclear Thanks

Sl

Machine Gauge

Yarn Count

Knitting charge Per Kg in Taka

14 H.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia

15 H.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia

18 F.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia

54 Eng Stripe (4&6 Color) (H/ Feeder Lycra

55 Eng Stripe (4&6 Color) (F/ Feeder Lycra

60 Engineering Stripe (6 Color) Lycra RIB /

62 Engineering Stripe 2X1 H Feeder Lycra

i) Monthly total expenditure of your factory with factory rent, commercial cost, electricity bill, water

bill, transportation , repairing, worker & stuff wages etc (8hrs/day) in bangla taka Suppose - 50,00,000/- tk

ii) Qty of running Machine of your factory of the following month (which total expenditure we have consider

here) Suppose - 100 machines

iii) Number of machine to complete the layout for the following Items (which CM we are calculating) Suppose - 25 machines

iv) Production target/capacity of the following items, per hour from the existing layout, excluding alter &

reject Suppose - 200 pcs per hour

v) Total working day of the followings month,(though the house rent ,commercial expenses,machine overhauling & some other cost remain same) Suppose- 26 days

vi) If you want to calculate the CM in US$ (dollar) then pls input present dollar conversation rate BDTk Suppose - $1 =

74 taka.

COST OF MAKING (CM)

= {(Monthly total expenditure of the following factory / 26) / (Qty of running Machine of your factory of the following month) X (Number of machine to complete the layout)} / [{(Production capacity per hr from the existing layout, excluding alter & reject) X 8}] X 12 / (Dollar conversion rate)

= $4.873 / dozen (this is the making cost (12 pcs) of the following items)

the CM of any item consider the overhead sewing machine cost 1200 tk to 1400 tk/day that means

$16.216 to $18.92/per day

Above is for a non-compliance factory For the a compliance factory the per day machine cost will be

1800 tk to 2100 tk ( $24.32 to $28.37)

SO, if the an items produce 1600 pcs per day using 25 machines then the CM will be

= Overhead machine cost X require machine / produce quantity X 12 / $74

= 1400 X 25 / 1600 X 12 / 74

= $3.547/DOZ

• CVC yarn (In this type of yarn the combination of cotton of polyester can be varied depending on the buyer requirement such as - 65% cotton + 35%

polyester, 60% cotton + 40% Polyester etc Also mainly in this type of yarn the cotton part is always remain greater than the Polyester) CVC mean cheap value cotton

• 100% polyester yarn

• PC yarn (In this type of yarn the cotton part is always remain less than the Polyester) PC means Polyester cotton

• 100% Viscose yarn

• Grey Mélange yarn In this type yarn we used a mixer of cotton & viscose The percentage of cotton & viscose may vary depends on the requirement of

buyer Such as - 85% cotton + 15% viscose (Dark Grey Mélange), 90% cotton + 10% viscose (Grey Mélange), 95% cotton + 5% viscose ( Light Grey Mélange), 98% cotton + 2% viscose (Ecru Mélange) etc Please note that if we increase the percentage of viscose then the yarn shade also will become dark accordingly The percentage also can be 80% cotton + 20% viscose So, if your buyer asked you for Grey mélange fabric then you must confirm it from them that, which percentage of viscose actually they looking for The yarn price of Grey Mélange is higher than normal cotton yarn Please always be aware about one thing that, the fabric which knitted by grey mélange yarn is not need to dyeing Also fabric properties of cotton & grey mélange are almost same So, we can used same care instruction for both (cotton & g.melange) type of fabric

Other than these, many more kinds of yarn are producing in this textile world Such as Bamboo yarn, Organic cotton yarn etc

20 count, 22 count, 24 count, 26 count, 28 count, 30 count, 32 count, 34 count, 36 count, 40 count

Normally we used these yarn counts for knit fabrics

Few days ago I visited a spinning factory to let it know that, how the yarn is producing from cotton This spinning factory only produced 100% cotton carded yarn Here, I will describe you the yarn producing process step by step with image and video Thanks!

Please find below a flow chart for 100% cotton carded yarn

Ø 1st Step: For producing the yarn at first we need to setup a spinning factory The production capacity of this spinning factory will be depends on our requirement

Ø 2nd Step: Cotton purchasing by import or from local market Then store the cotton separately based on its origin, quality & fiber length etc

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Ø 3rd Step: Blow room section – In this section the cotton goes under several treatment or operations Such as- Fiber opening, Cleaning, Dust Removal, Blending etc

Ø 4th Step: Carding section – After end of the blow room process the cotton comes in the carding section The cotton comes automatically in these carding machines

by pipe A spinning factory has several carding machine Two proverbs of the experts - "the carding is the heart of the spinning mill" and "well carded is half spun"

Ø 5th Step: 1st Drawing – From the carding machine we got Sliver The breaker drawing (1st drawing) machine makes even the sliver by doubling process

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Ø 6th Step: 2nd Drawing – After finished the process of 1st drawing by the finisher drawing (2nd drawing) machine we make the sliver more even (as much as

possible.)

Ø 7th Step: Simplex – This machine produce roving from finisher sliver for make yarn

Ø 8th Step: Ring Frame – This machine produce the count wise yarn from roving

Ø 9th Step: Auto Cone – Winding is the main process of this machine This auto coner machine make cone from the ring bobbin

Ø 10th Step: Packing – After get the yarn cone from auto coner we packed these cone for sale or delivery to the knitting factory

Today I will share with you a very important dyeing process Sometimes we got query from buyer for Fabric with spandex All

of these the most common require fabrication is - 95% cotton 5% spandex, Single jersey , 160 GSM From the fiber market we can got many kinds spandex for knitting the fabric Denier is the unit of Spandex The common denier is 20D, 40D & 70D Fiber thickness of 20D is thin then 40D And 70D is thicker than 40D Lycra is a brand (name) of Spandex

In single jersey spandex fabric it is very difficult to keep the GSM lower If you intending to produce the s/j cotton spandex fabric in between 155 to 165 GSM then please follow the below things:

Fabric 95% cotton 5% spandex, Single Jersey, 160 GSM

Yarn count should be - 40/s comb

Spandex should be - 20D

Stitch Line should be - 2.80

Dyeing Process of Single Jersey Cotton Spandex Fabric:

• 1st step: After receive the grey fabric from knitting section in tube form, in dyeing section, at first we slit the fabric with

slitting machine

• 2nd Step: Then we heat set the stilted fabric with stenter machine for avoiding the creased mark And also for the Dia

& Grey GSM fixing

Dyeing the fabric (in the winch)-

Option A) If the dyeing factory has high pressure dyeing machine (winch) then we should dye the fabric in open width

Option B) If the dyeing factory has normal dyeing winch then we should back sewing the open fabric to make it tube again

• 3rd Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next

process

• 4th Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric

• 5th Step: Soda / Salt wash

• 6th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric Or if fabric color is white then we

used brightener chemical in this step And step 06 is not requiring for white color fabric.

• 7th Step: Acid wash (after released color mixing water)

• 8th Step: Color fixing by fixer

Finishing process of the fabric (After dyeing) -

If we are following option (A) then step will be like as below

• 9th Step: Stentering (heat setting) for adjust the Dia For this again stentering we called it double heat settings

• 10th Step: Open compacting for control shrinkage of fabric length

If we are following option (B) then step will be like as below

• 9th Step: Slitting

• 10th Step: Stentering (heat settings) for dia adjust

• 11th Step: Open compacting for control shrinkage of fabric length

Now the fabric is ready for cutting Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting

Hope, it will be helpful for all of you

Apparel-Merchandising

Grey Mélange Fabric Dyeing Method (process)

Dear All,

Actually Grey Mélange fabrics not need to dye, because yarn shade is already as per our requirement

So, when we calculate the fabric price of Grey mélange fabric,

We only quote the below things

1 Yarn price

2 Knitting charge + knitting wastage

3 Fabric Washing & finishing cost (which we done in dyeing factory) + wastage For this reason we got the Grey mélange fabric very quickly from dyeing

However, please find below washing & finishing process of grey melange

Fabrication: 90% cotton 10% viscose, Sing jersey.

Dyeing(washing)

1 st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process

2 nd Step: Per-oxide wash

3 rd Step: Acid washes

10th Step: Shrinkage Report (Optional)

11th Step: Tube Compacting

For open width fabric

8th Step: Slitting

9th Step: Stentering (For Dia adjust)

10th Step: Open Compacting (For length wise shrinkage control)

Now the fabric is ready for cutting Please test the Shrinkage, Gsm before start cutting

1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process

2nd Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric

3rd Step: Soda / Salt wash

4th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric Or if fabric color is white then we used brightener chemical

in this step And step 06 is not require for white color fabric

5th Step: Acid washes (after released color mixing water)

6th Step: Color fixing by fixer

9th Step: Stentering (For Dia adjust)

10th Step: Brush inside (terry side) with brushing machine

10th Step: Stentering

10th Step: Compacting (For length wise shrinkage control)

Now the fabric is ready for cutting Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting

Apparel-Merchandising Peach (carbonic) finished fabric dyeing & finishing method

Learn Apparel Merchandising,

Suede or Peach (carbonic) finished fabric dyeing & finishing method.

1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process

2nd Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric

3rd Step: Soda / Salt wash

4th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric Or if fabric color is white then we used brightener chemical

in this step And step 06 is not require for white color fabric

5th Step: Acid washes (after released color mixing water)

6th Step: Color fixing by fixer

9th Step: Stentering (For Dia adjust)

10th Step: Suedeing or Peach (in the face side of fabric) with suede machine

10th Step: Stentering

10th Step: Compacting (For length wise shrinkage control)

Regarding the peach finished fabric please be careful regarding the neck rib & body color Some time we found that rib & body color are not matching Also we found hole in the fabric

Now the fabric is ready for cutting Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting

Apparel-Merchandising

Viscose Fabric Dyeing Method

100% Viscose Fabric Dyeing Method

Many times we got some inquiry from buyer for viscose fabric Thought this fabric has some advantage, but also it has so many disadvantages which found in the dyeing process

Viscose fabric is not a common fabric like as cotton The hand feelings of this fabric are same as silk & soft

Viscose yarn is a kind of yarn which made from cellulose base Viscose is a type of man-made fiber but it is not a synthetic fiber like as polyester, because it is made from natural materials, but it is heavily processed

Advantages of Viscose

Fabric which is made from viscose yarn is that takes dyes very well, so that, we can work with a wide variety of colors Viscose fabric is very shiny; also it stays bright and colorful throughout the life of the products made with it So, if you want

to work with various kind of bold and colorfast fabric then you can choose viscose

Disadvantages of Viscose fabric

1) Fabric tearing possibility is very high during the dyeing process

2) If the fabric remain wet for long times then some spot creates on it’s, which removal process is very difficult But in cotton fabric we can do this very easily

3) If the fabric dyed uneven then it is very difficult to remove

4) During the dyeing process if we fail to maintain the temperature & pressure properly then fabric strength will be reduce

Fabric 100% Viscose, S/Jersey Fabric, 160 GSM

Dyeing Process of 100% Viscose Fabric: Actually viscose dyeing process is almost same as single jersey cotton spandex fabric However, please find below the dyeing process

· 1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next

process

· 2nd Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric

· 3rd Step: Soda / Salt wash

· 4th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric Or if fabric color is white then we

used brightener chemical in this step And step 06 is not require for white color fabric

· 5th Step: Acid wash (after released color mixing water)

· 6th Step: Color fixing by fixer

Finishing process of the fabric (After dyeing)

-· 7th Step: Slitting

· 8th Step: Stentering (heat settings) for dia adjust

· 9th Step: Open compacting for control shrinkage of fabric length

Now the fabric is ready for cutting Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting

However, I always suggest everybody to avoid the order with viscose fabric Because dyeing of this is very risky & costly also

Hope, it will be helpful for all of you

Apparel-Merchandising

Clarification of poly bag

Details Clarification of poly bag.

Normally we used various kinds of bag to pack the goods Poly bag is the most common and important item of them Normally we bought various kinds / type of poly bag from the market Most of the product is packed withpoly bag

Mainly in the apparel sector poly bag is a very common item We packed the garments with the poly bag before insert in a carton for shipment Sometimes we use one poly for one garment, we called it

single poly Sometimes we insert several single poly in a big poly we called it “blister poly"

Considering the material there is several classifications in these Poly Please find below the main

classifications poly with all the details

PE (Polyethylene) :

A lightweight thermoplastic used especially in packaging It is tough, flexible and chemical resistance characteristics

PP (Polypropylene):

Polypropylene has excellent chemical resistance is strong and has the lowest density of the plastics used

in packaging It is stiffer and clearer than polyethylene and has excellent resistance to water, salt and acid solutions and, when manufactured with virgin resin, polypropylene (PP) meets FDA requirements for food applications Polypropylene (PP) is exceptionally suited to maximize the visual appeal of food

and displayproducts Any Product that needs an outstanding professional appearance can benefit from polypropylene (PP) packaging

LDPE = Low Density Polyethylene:

Low Density Polyethylene is the most commonly used material for flexible packaging because it is tough, transparent and electrically stable Low Density Polyethylene (LDPE) also has a low melting point, which

is required for heat sealing applications When low density polyethylene bags (LDPE) are made with virgin (no additives) polyethylene resin, they meet FDA standards for use with food products

LLDPE = Linear Low Density Polyethylene:

A given thickness of Linear Low Density Polyethylene (LLDPE) is significantly stronger than the same thickness of Low Density Polyethylene (LDPE) Therefore, Linear Low Density Polyethylene (LLDPE) can

be thinner and lighter and perform the same job as LDPE These bags are bottom sealed for added

strength Linear Low Density Polyethylene (LLDPE) also has a low melting point, which is required for heat sealing applications

HDPE = High Density Polyethylene:

High Density Polyethylene is used because of its excellent strength and significantly lighter weight It has excellent protection capability and it is used in grocery and other retail segments extensively, while also suitable for a myriad of other uses

Nylon Laminated Polyethylene

Nylon Laminated Polyethylene Vacuum packaging is the process of removing the air from within an

impermeable plastic package and sealing food items inside to maintain flavor, freshness and color Some forms of harmful bacteria thrive in the presence of oxygen A Nylon film is incorporated into vacuum bags

to prevent oxygen from returning to the bag after the extraction process, and prevents bacteria from

spoiling the contents Nylon vacuum bags can be used to preserve many different types of food, including beef, lamb, chicken, fish and cheese