fabric manufacturing technology-1

FLOW CHART OF WEAVING Yarn In the form of spinner’s package Warp Preparation Weft Preparation Winding cone, cheese Winding Cop, Pirn, Cone, Cheese Warping Pre beam/ Warper’s beam

TEXTILE

A Textile was originally a woven fabric but now the term textile and itsplural textiles are also applied to fibers, filaments, yarn and mostproducts for which these are a principle raw material The productincludes threads, cords, ropes, braids woven, knitted, non-woven fabrics,nets, household textile, geo-textile, medical textiles etc

WEAVING

Weaving is the action of producing fabric by the interlacing of warp andweft thread The warp threads are placed along the length of the fabricand the weft threads are placed along the width of the fabric

Example of Different

Textile-Geo-Textile: Embankment

Medical Textile: Non-alginate fabric, Bandage tape etc

Non-woven Fabric: Tea bag, Tissue paper

House Hold Textile: Curtain, Cover of soffa set

FLOW CHART OF WEAVING Yarn

(In the form of spinner’s package)

Warp Preparation Weft Preparation

Winding (cone, cheese) Winding (Cop, Pirn, Cone, Cheese)

Warping (Pre beam/ Warper’s

beam/ back beam) Weaving (Fabric)

Sizing (weaver’s beam)

Drafting, Drawing, Pinning

1 Woven fabric (Shirt)

2 Knitted fabric (T-shirt)

3 Non-woven fabric (Tea pack)

4 Special fabric (Fire proof fabric, water proof fabric)

OBJECTS OF YARN PREPARATION

Yarn preparation is important to facilitate the next processes of weaving.The objects of yarn preparation are mentioned bellow:

 To remove yarn faults ( there are 23 types of yarn faults)

 To transfer the yarn from spinner’s package to a convenient form of

package which will facilitate weaving.

 To have desired length of yarn on a package

 To clean the yarn for better appearance and performance

 To make good quality fabric

 To reduce labour cost

FAULTS TO BE REMOVED DURING YARN-PREPARATION

QUALITY OF GOOD WARP

The essential features of good warp is mentioned

bellow- The yarn must be uniform, clean and free from knots as much aspossible

 The yarn must be sufficiently strong with withstand the stress andfriction without end breakage

 Knots should be a standard size and type So that they can pass theheald eye, dropper, read easily

 The warp must be uniformly sized and size coating should be thickenough to protect the yarn various function

 The ends of warp must be parallel and each must be wound onto aweaver’s beam at an even and equal tension

 All warp yarn should of same size in length

TYPES OF PACKAGE

 Cone (for warp yarn)

 Cheese (for warp yarn)

 Spool (for silk, jute warp yarn)

 Flanged bobbin (for warp yarn)

 Cop (for jute weft)

 Pirn (for cotton weft)

 Spinner package

TYPES OF PACKAGE WINDING

There are three types of package winding available

1 Parallel wound package

2 Near parallel wound package

3 Cross wound package

1 Parallel Wound Package Features

a) Many yarn can be wound at a time

b) No need of traversing motion

c) Side withdrawal is possible

d) The density of yarn is more

e) No change of twist/inch

f) For yarn unwinding separate mechanism is needed

g) Two side of the package needed flanged

2 Near Parallel Wound Package Features

a) No need flange here.

b) Both side and overend withdrawal is possible.

c) Twist/inch can be changed.

d) Traversing motion is needed.

PACKAGE

3 Cross-Wound Package Features

a) Here no flange is required

b) Traversing mechanism is must

c) Twist/inch changes

d) Only overend withdrawal is possible

e) Yarn ballooning occurs during unwinding

f) This package is very stable

TYPES OF PACKAGE DRIVING

There are three types of package driving system

A surface contact driving (indirect system)

B direct driving at constant angular speed

C Direct Driving At Variable Angular Speed

A SURFACE CONTACT DRIVING (INDIRECT SYSTEM)

In this system, the yarn package is placed with a surface contact of adrum The drum is driven by a motor and some gear When it rotates thepackage also rotate is reverse direction

B DIRECT DRIVING AT CONSTANT ANGULAR SPEED

In this system, the package is placed on a spindle The spindle is driven

by a motor and some gears So the package gets a constant angularspeed Here yarn take up rate is directly proportional to the package dia

PACKAGE

C DIRECT DRIVING AT VARIABLE ANGULAR SPEED

In this system, yarn package is directly driven at a variable angular speed

to give a constant yarn speed Here the package speed is inverselyproportional to the package radius,

I.e Package speed 1

Package radius

The appearance of the curved path of running yarn during unwinding oroverend withdrawl from package under appropriate winding conditionthrough a guide, placed above and in line with the axis of the package at

an adequate distance from it, the yarn assumes the appearance of aballoon shape This circumstance of assuming balloon shape of yarn iscalled ballooning

FACTORS EFFECTING THE SHAPE AND SIZE OF BALLOON

 Package size Ballooning

 Yarn guide distance Ballooning

 Lift the package Ballooning

 Count of yarn Ballooning

 Air resistance Ballooning

 Unwinding rate Ballooning

BALLOONIN

The unwinding process of yarn from package is called yarn withdrawal.There are two types of yarn withdrawal system:

1 Side Withdrawal

2 Overend Withdrawal

1) Side Withdrawal

The features of side withdrawl of yarn are given bellow;

a) Package will rotate in side withdrawal

b) Yarn twist will be unchanged

c) No formation of balloon occurs

d) It is applied to flanged bobbin

e) The rate and speed of unwinding is slow

2) Overend Withdrawal

The features of overend withdrawl are given bellow;

a) Package remains stationary during unwinding

b) Formation of balloon occurs

c) Twist/inch of yarn changed

d) Generally cop, pirn, cone, chess are packages used for overend withdrawl

e) The rate of unwinding is high

YARN WITHDRAWAL OR

In winding and unwinding some small component control yarn path which

is very necessary, yarn guide is used to perform this job

TYPES OF YARN GUIDE

There are two types of yarn guide

a) Yarn Guide For The Yarn Whose Ends Are Required For Threading;

For this type of yarn guide extra time is needed for threading So speed ofoperation is decreased The yarn which passes through this guide facesmore friction

Like Ceramic, Tumpet, Bust

b) Yarn Guide For The Yarn Whose Ends Are Not Required For Threading;

Here threading is very easy So the speed of the operation is high Yarn passes through this guide faces less friction

Figure: Yarn Guide

YARN

During winding, we have to impart proper tension to yarn, so that we can get a stable and undamaged package So we pass the yarn through a device called tension device.

Types of Tension Device

There are four types of tension device as follow;

by the following formula:

Output Tension = Input Tension × eμθ

B ADDITIVE TENSIONER

This is also a simple technique of applying tension on yarn In this device

a dead weight or spring is used in the middle of the two surfaces incontact and the force is applied to give suitable tension to the yarn.Hence the output tension is expressed by,

T2 = T1 + 2μF + T1 eμθ

Where,

T1 = Input tension

T2 = Output tension

µ = Co-efficient of friction.

F = Applied force

θ = Angle of lap

D AUTOMATIC TENSIONER

It is a simple tensioner in which yarn tension is controlled automatically

It has a lever with spring loaded disc in one side and applied load inanother side The device is designed in such a way that if applied tension

is too high The pressure on disc is reduced to bring the tension back toits proper level

There are some effects of tension to the yarn or package: They area) If tension is too high.

b) If tension is too low

 Irregularity among yarn

Auxiliary Function in Winding

 It must be easily threaded

 It must neither introduce nor magnify tension variation

 It must not change the twist of yarn

 It must not be affected by wear

 It must be easily adjustable

 It must not be affected by the presence of oil and dirt

 It must not encourage the collection of dirt and lint

 It must be easy cleaning.

 The operating surface must be smooth

 It must be cheap

 It must not cause any type of damage to yarn i.e shade variation,elongation yarn breakage

PRECISION WINDING FEATURES

 Packages are wound with reciprocating traverse

 Package contains more yarn

 Low stability of package

 Hard and more compact package

 Low unwinding rate

 The wound coils are arranged parallely or near parallely

FEATURES OF NON-PRECESSION WINDING

 Coils are cross wound

 Package is of low density

 Less amount of yarn is stored in package

 High stability of package can be obtained

 Flange is not necessary

 Unwinding rate is very high

Difference between Precession and Non-Precession Winding

Precession winding Non-Precession winding

1 The wound coil arranged parallel

or near parallel

1 The coil is cross wise wound

2 The yarn density of the package

is high

2 The yarn density of a package is low

3 Flanged bobbin may be used 3 Not use of flanged

4 The yarn package is hard and

more compact

4 The yarn package is soft and lesscompact

5 Low stability of the package 5 High stability of the package

6 Winding angle is 90° or near 90° 6 Winding angle is less than 80°

7 The bobbin is wound with one or 7 The bobbin is wound with single

WINDIN

more threads thread.

8 Yarn tension is comparatively

high

8 Yarn tension is comparatively low

9 Unwinding rate is low 9 Unwinding rate is high

1 lb of yarn contains = 24X840 yds yarn

500 lbs of yarn contains = (24X840X500) yds yarn

560 yds of yarn to wind in 1 drum needs =1 min

1 yd “ “ “ 15 drum “ =1/ (560X15) min.

1 lb of yarn contains = 25X840 yd yarns

500 lb of yarn contains =(25X840X900) yd yarns.

600 yds of yarn to wind in 1 min in = 1 drum

1 yd ’’ ’’ ’’ (60X28) min in = 1 / (600X60X28) drum.

(25X840X900) yds ’’ (60X28) min = (25X840X900) / (600X28X600)

drum = 18.75 drum = 19 drum (ans.)

Winding is a part of total number of ends of a warp in full width on to aback beam from cone or cheese is known as warping

OBJECTS OF WARPING

 To prepare a beam to make a fabric

 To increase the wave ability of fabric

 To make a convenient yarn sheet for sizing

 To wound up required length of yarn onto a warp beam

 To facilate the weaving of complex color pattern

 To make reusable small packages

REQUIREMENT OF WARPING

During warping the following requirements should be fulfilled

1 The tension of all wound end must be uniform and possibly constantthroughout the withdrwal process

2 Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties ofyarn

3 The surface of warping package must be cylindrical

4 A pre-determined length of yarn should be wound on beam from everypackage

5 The production rate of warping should be as high as possible

6 If possible, yarn faults should be removed

TYPES OF WARPING

Mainly there are two types of warping,

a) Direct/ high speed warping

b) Sectional warping

WARPIN

Some Other Special Types of Warping Are Available

a) Ball warping

b) Chain warping

c) Cross warping

A SECTIONAL WARPING

Sectional warping is a process of preparing warp beam over two stages

In first stage yarns are wound in narrow tapes on a large drum Then inthe second stage the rewinding of the warp onto a beam is performed.This process is slow but suitable for complex color pattern

B DIRECT/HIGH SPEED WARPING

High speed warping is a process of preparing warp beam directly fromyarn package Here all the yarns are wound on a simple flange beam at atime This process is suitable for single color pattern

FEATURES OF SECTIONAL WARPING

 Sectional warping is suitable for producing color fabrics with differentpattern

 Production is less in sectional warping So it is a costly process

 In sectional warping, tension cannot be kept uniform

 Here tapered drum is used as drum

 Hand weaving is necessary to produce sample fabric for bulkproduction

FEATURES OF HIGH SPEED WARPING

 High speed warping is suitable for producing fabric with same countand same color yarn

 Higher amount of yarn is required here

 The speed and production of a high speed warping is very high

 Here simple flanged bobbin is used as beam

Difference between Sectional Warping and High Speed Warping

High Speed Warping Sectional Warping

1 Used to produce common fabric 1 Used to produce fancy fabrics

2 Production is high 2 Production is low

3 Large amount of yarn is required 3 Small amount of yarn is required

4 Weavers beam is produced after

sizing

4 Weavers beam is directly produced

5 Cone and Cheese is used 5 Flanged bobbin or drum is used

6 The process is cheap 6 The process is expensive

7 High creel capacity 7 Low creel capacity

Control System in Warping

 Surface speed control

 Proper yarn density

 Static electricity

 Traverse control

 Fly control

Faults in Warping

 Off center warp

 Reged or uneven warp

Description of Different Control Systems in Warping

1 Tension Control: Tension should not be low or high during warping.

Because due to lower tension package will be unstable, entangled andsnarling will occur Whereas high tension will cause yarn breakage Thetension should be just and uniform throughout the process

2 Balloon Control: Balloon controlling is necessary so that the yarns

does not entangled with one another For this, yarn guides should beplaced at right positions

3 Stop Motion: The m/c should stop itself if any yarn breakage occurs

at any point So stop motion system is necessary to control

4 Yarn Cleaner: Proper setting should be maintained to remove yarn

faults

5 Length Control: the Length of warp sheet should be controlled It is

done with a measuring roller in combination with a suitable countingdevice by stopping the device machine after winding pre-determinedlength of warp yarn onto the beam

6 Surface Speed: The surface speed of beam should be controlled

specially when a large change in warp diameter is involved

7 Proper Yarn Density: In warp sheet the yarn ends/inch, means yarn

density, is to be controlled Because without proper yarn density thefabric will be uneven

8 Static Electricity: It is specially required in case of man-made fibres.

It is controlled to avoid yarn entanglement It is done by:

i Chemical fiber finishes

ii Ionization of air

iii Humidification of air

9 Traverse Control: In sectional warping traverse rate of beam should

be controlled

10 Fly Control: In staple fibres lints, small trashes may cause problem

by flying around the working area So this fly should be controlled to have

a pleasant working atmosphere

Description of Different Faults in Warping and Their Remedies:

1 Off Centre Warp: If beam or wraith is not set properly i.e it is not

centric due to carelessness this type of fault occurs

Remedy: Beam or wraith should be placed proper

2 Rigid or Uneven Warp Surface: This may occur if

i Yarn density [ends/inch] is very low

ii Different counts of yarns is wound on beam/

iii Yarn density is uneven

Remedy: yarn density and count should be maintained properly

3 Cross Ends: If occurs due to faulty knotting after end breakage.

(Joining broken end with wrong end)

Remedy: Knotting and tension should be done carefully

4 Snarl Formation: Snarl form due to over tension, highly twisted yarn

and careless operation

Remedy: Tension should be kept proper and yarn twist should be asrequired

5 Hard/Soft Beam: If during winding yarn on being yarn tension is low

or high soft and hard beam forms It may also occur due to unevenpressure on drum or beam

Remedy: Tension and pressure should be maintained even

6 End Missing: If yarn breakage occurs m/c should be stopped

immediately If such cannot be done the broken end of yarn cannot befound out This is end missing problem

Remedy: Stop motion system should be very active and m/c should bestopped immediately after end breakage

7 Haphazard Knotting: if various length of yarn is wound in creel

packages then during beaming different end will finished in different time

So knotting would be in various places of the warp This will haphazardknotting

Remedy: In creel packages same length of yarns should be present sothat all yarn finish at a certain place of warp.

8 Length Variation: It may occur due to fault stop motion It means ifthe stop motion system stops the m/c before winding required length ofyarn on beam length variation occurs

Remedy: Stop motion should be checked carefully

Let, s = traverse length

L = Axis at length of warp on drum

d = empty beam dia

D = full beam dia

From figure, we can see that,

dm = , mean dia and = x tan α

So , V = πL ( L dm (x tan α)

Π24

D + d

2

D - d 2

Relation between Taper Angle and Amount of Yarn on a

or, V > πL ( L dm (S tan α) if, x > s

or, V < πL ( L dm (S tan α) if, x < s

So, V S tan α

if α = 90° then V = s tan 90°= α

So unlimited amount of yarns can be wound if flange stays perpendicular

to beam barrel Practically this is impossible But this type of packagepermit’s to wind high amount of yarn

The method of applying a gelatinous film forming substance of starch onwarp yarn before weaving is known as sizing

Object of Sizing

 To protect the yarn from abrasion with heald eye, back rest, reed etc during weaving

 To improve breaking strength of cellulosic yarn

 To increase yarn smoothness

 To reduce yarn hairness

 To increase yarn elasticity and stiffness

 To decrease yarn extensibility

 To hinder generation of static electricity for synthetic and blendedyarn

 To increase yarn weight

Sizing Ingredients and Their Functions

Some important size ingradients and their functions are mentioned

below-1 Adhesive

2 Lubricants or softeners

3 Antiseptic or antimildew agent

4 Deliquescent or Hygroscopic agent

Adhesives are mixed with water in granular form and heated to form apaste which ultimately becomes a viscous fluid The followings do asadhesives in a size:

 Maize, corn, wheat, rice, potato starch

 CMC (carboxyl methyl cellulose)

 PVA (poly vinyl alcohol)

 PVC (poly vinyl chloride)

The functions of adhesives are as follows;

 To increase yarn strength

 To reduce yarn hairiness

 To increase elasticity and stiffness

3 ANTISEPTIC OR ANTIMILDEW AGENT

ZnCl₂, phenol, carboxylic acid, salicylic acid are used as antiseptic orantimildew agent

Function

i It helps to store the sized yarn protect it from bacteria and fungi

ii It prevents the growth of mildew on yarn during storage

4 DELIQUESCENT OR HYGROSCOPIC AGENT

Hygroscopic agents present in size absorb moisture from air glycerin,CaCl₂ are some deliquescent agent

Function

a) To prevent the brittleness of size

b) To absorb moisture from air

c) To prevent excessive dyeing of yarn

5 WEIGHTING AGENT

China clay, CaCO₃, Na₃ , PO₄, France chal etc are used as weighting agent.These are to be used specially for those fabrics that are to be solid in greystate

Function

a) To increase the weight of yarn hen fabric

b) To impart fullness and feel to fabric

6 ANTI-FOAMING AGENT

Pyridine, benzene etc.as used as anti-foaming agent

Function: To prevent the formation foam

7 TINTING AGENT

Blue is used as tinting agent

Function:

a) To increase luster or brightness

b) To produce a pale color in dyeing

b) Reduce surface tension of the liquor

c) Increase size absorbency

TECHNOLOGICAL CHANGES OCCURE DUE TO SIZING

The following technological changes of a yarn/fabric occurs due to sizing –

1 INCREASE IN BREAKING STRENGTH

2 INCREASE ABRASION RESISTANCE

3 INCREASE IN STIFFNESS

4 INCREASE IN ELASTICITY

5 INCREASE IN FRICTIONAL RISISTANCE

6 INCREASE IN YARN DIAMETER

7 DECREASE IN YARN HAIRINESS

8 DECREASE IN STATIC ELECTRICITY FORMATION

DESCRIPTION

1 INCREASE IN BREAKING STRENGTH

During sizing adhesive materials create bonds between fibers to fiberwhich, as a result, increase the breaking strength of the yarn It increases20-40% breaking strength of the fiber

2 INCREASE ABRASION RESISTANCE

After sizing the gap between fibers are filled with size due to the coating

of size on the outer surface of the yarn So their resistance againstabrasion is increased

3 INCREASE IN STIFFNESS

After sizing flexibility or pliability of a yarn is decreased and stiffness isincreased

4 INCREASE IN ELASTICITY

As extensibility of the sized yarn decreases, more force is to be applied

to extend the yarn This is means, elasticity of the yarn increases

5 INCREASE IN FRICTIONAL RISISTANCE

Sizing produces smooth yarn surface and so less friction occurs.Again size coating increases the frictional resistance of yarn

6 INCREASE IN YARN DIAMETER

Due to coating of size ingredients the yarn diameter increase but yarn’sapparent diameter is decreased

7 DECREASE IN YARN HAIRINESS

By sizing protruding hairs of yarn fix with yarn and so yarn hairinessdecreases mentionably

8 DECREASE IN STATIC ELECTRICITY FORMATION

Size materials contain hygroscopic agent and water which hinder theformation of static change on yarn surface Again due to mass frictionalresistance the formation of static electricity becomes less

SIZE TAKE-UP PERCENTAGE

Size take up % =

Size Take up Percentage Depends on the Following Factors

Wt of size material on yarn × 100%

Wt of unsized yarn

 Twist S.T

 Yarn count S.T

 Viscosity of size material S.T

 speed of yarn passing through m/c S.T

 Pressure of squeezing roller S.T

 Amorphousness of fiber in yarn S.T

 Flexibility of yarn S.T

 Nature of adhesive S.T

 Time and Temperature S.T

SIZE CALCULATION

MATH-1: A beam of wt 260 lbs contains 4000 sized warp of 1200 yds

length It the unsized yarn count is 30 Ne and empty beam wt 50 lbs.,then calculate -

i Wt of size on yarn

ii Count of sized yarn

iii Size take-up percentage

Sol n : 4000×1200

Weight of unsized yarn = yds

840×30 = 190.47 lb

Wt of sized Yarn = (260 – 50) lbs

= 210 lbs

Wt of size material = (210 - 190.47) lbs

= 19.53 lb (Ans)

Size take up percentage (%) = (wt of size material on yarn / wt of

unsized Yarn) x 100 %

= 19.53/190.47 x 100 % = 10.25 % (Ans)

The loom is the contact point of the whole process of cloth production,ginning, opening, carding, spinning, winding, warping, sizing and beamingare done before weaving A loom cannot be said a machine but it is adevice which is used to produce woven fabric Looms are generally driveneither by line shaft or by individual motors fitted with it

Weaving Mechanism / Basic Principle of Weaving

Weaving is the process of interlacement between the warp and weft infabric according to a design of fabric

Basic principle or weaving mechanism is:

 The yarn from the weavers beam passes round the back restand comes forward through the drop wire of the warp stop motion tothe heald eye of heald shaft which is responsible for the purpose ofshade formation

 It then passes through the dent of reed which holds the thread atuniform spacing and it is also performed the beating up the weftthread that has been left in the triangle warp sheet form by the twowarp sheet and reed

 In this way, weft yarn is meshes with last pick of fabric or cloth.Temple holds the cloth firm at the feed position and assist in theformation of a uniform fabric width Then fabric passes over the frontrest, take up roller, pressure roller and finally wind on to the clothroller

LOO

DRIVING MOTION

 It is seen that the figure that, two tappet mounted with the onebottom shaft and it passed the treadle lever by treadle bowl todown direction

 There is a fulcrum at the end of treadle lever and another end oflever is joined with heald shaft by yarn

 Top roller acts as intermediate of two rope of heald shaft fromwhich rope passes over the top roller

 When shedding cam or tappet pressed on the treadle lever bytreadle bowl, then one heald shaft is down while another is up andshedding is formed Such way, 2nd shedding tappet reverses fullmotion i.e upper heald shaft is down and down heald shaft is up

 The mechanism of a power loom receives their motion from shaftthat traverses from side to side in the loom and is driver fromanother Their relative speeds are of importance since they give themechanism that they drive

 The crank shaft being driven by the motor moves one revolution perpicks The motion of the teeth of the gear wheels connecting this

shaft to the bottom shaft is always 2:1, so that the bottom shaft willmove one revolution in ever two picks.

AutomaticPower Loom

Modern orShuttle less Loom

Hand Loom

1 Primitive or Vertical loom

2 Pit loom

(a) Throw shuttle loom

(b) Fly shuttle loom

3 Frame loom

(a) Throw shuttle loom

(b) Fly shuttle loom

1 Projectile Loom

2 Rapier Loom

3 Air jet Loom

4 Multiphase

2 Let off(a) Positive(b) Negative.

(5 wheel, 7 wheel)

Tertiary Motion

1 Warp stop motion

2 Weft stop motion (Centre, side)

3 Reed stop motion (Loose, fast)

4 Temple motion (Roller, reed)

5 Weft replenish