Munich and the Bavarian Alps Eyewitness Travel a

*OHPMTUBEU 6MNN -BOETCFSHTC SHBN-FDI Pages 158–73 OLD TOWN NORTH Pages 70–85 UPPER BAVARIA SOUTH... OLD TOWN SOUTH 54 OLD TOWN NORTH 70 AROUND THE ISAR 86 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS WHERE TO STA

Eyewitness TRAVEL

MUNICH

& THE BAVARIAN ALPS

The guides that show you what

others only tell you

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*OHPMTUBEU

6MNN

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Pages 158–73

OLD TOWN (NORTH)

Pages 70–85

UPPER BAVARIA (SOUTH)

FURTHER AFIELD

Pages 128–139

THE UNIVERSITY DISTRICT

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

MUNICH

& THE BAVARIAN ALPS

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

MUNICH

& THE BAVARIAN ALPS

IZABELLA GALICKAKATARZYNA MICHALSKA

The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up to date

as possible at the time of going to press Some details, however,

such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging

arrangements and travel information are liable to change The

publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising

from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party

websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this

book will be a suitable source of travel information We value the

views and suggestions of our readers very highly.

Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,

Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain.

INTRODUCING MUNICH AND THE BAVARIAN ALPS

PRODUCED BY Wydawnictwo Wiedza i Życie S.A., Warsaw Y

CONTRIBUTORSIzabella Galicka, Katarzyna Michalska

CONSULTANT TSergiusz Michalski

ILLUSTRATORSLena Maminajszwili,

Bohdan Wróblewski, Piotr Zubrzyckijj ,,

PHOTOGRAPHERS Dorota and Mariusz Jarymowiczowie

CARTOGRAPHERS Magdalena Polak, Dariusz Romanowski,

Kartographie Huber (Munich)g ,,

JACKET DESIGN AND GRAPHICSPaweł Kamiński

GRAPHIC DESIGNER RPaweł Pasternak

EDITORSRoberttG. Pasieczny, Dorota Szatańska

TECHNICAL EDITOR Anna Kożurno-Królikowska R

DESIGNERS Ewa Roguska, Piotr Kiedrowski

Dorling Kindersley Limited

EDITOR Lucilla Watson R

TRANSLATOR Mark Cole (Linguists for Business) R

DTP DESIGNERSJason Little, Conrad Van Dyk

PRODUCTION Sarah Dodd

Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore

Printed and bound in China

by Toppan Printing Co (Shenzhen Ltd)

First American Edition 2002

08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Inc.,

375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014

Reprinted with revisions 2006, 2008

Copyright 2002, 2008 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London

Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited

ISSN 1542-1554ISBN 978-0-7566-3187-1

Front cover main image: The skyline of Old Town, Munich

OLD TOWN (SOUTH)

54

OLD TOWN (NORTH) 70

AROUND THE ISAR 86

TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY 258 WHERE TO EAT 270 SHOPS & MARKETS 286

THE BAVARIAN ALPS

AT A GLANCE 156

UPPER BAVARIA

(NORTH) 158 LOWER BAVARIA 174

THE BAVARIAN ALPS

THROUGH THE YEAR 30

A verdant, flower-filled meadow near Schwangau, in the Allgäu

The Propyläen in Munich,

designed by Leo von Klenze

Pork salamis

,

t

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

the most out of your stay in

Munich and the Bavarian Alps.

The first section, Introducing Munich

and the Bavarian Alps, locates the city

and the region geographically and

gives an outline of its history and

cul-ture The subsequent sections, Munich

Area by Area and The Bavarian Alps

Area by Area, describe the main sights

and attractions Feature spreads, with maps, illustrations and drawings, focus

on important sights Information about accommodation and restaurants is

given in Travellers’ Needs, while the

Survival Guide provides useful tips on e

everything you need to know, from money to getting around.

All the important sights

of Munich are described individually The address, telephone number, opening hours, admission charges, how to get there and disabled access are given for each sight.

This gives a bird’s-eye

view of a particularly

interesting sightseeing area

described in the section.

MUNICH AREA BY

AREA

In this guide, Munich has

been divided into five

central areas and a Further

Afield section Each area is

described in an individual

section, giving the names

of all the main sights and

attractions The sights are

numbered on the area

Sights at a glance lists the

buildings in a particular

area by category: churches,

museums and art galleries,

historic buildings, and

streets and squares

Stars indicate the sights that no

visitor should miss

A suggested route takes in some of the most interestingstreets in the area

For easy reference the sights in each area are numbered and located on

an area map, as well as on the Munich Street Finder on pp148–53.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp262–5 and pp276–9

The Palladian façade of Arco-Zinneberg Palace on Wittelsbacherplatz

The Neo-Romanesque façade of St Ludwig’s Church

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All the important towns

and other places to visit are

described individually

They are listed in order,

following the numbering on

the regional map Each

entry contains detailed

This describes the landscape, history and character of each area, outlining how it has changed through the ages and also describing major tourist attractions.

For all the top sights, aVisitors’ Checklist provides thepractical information you willneed to plan your visit

Colour coding makes each area in the guidebook easy to find

THE BAVARIAN ALPS AREA BY AREA

In this guide the Bavarian Alps are divided into six areas, each of which is described in

an individual chapter Themost interesting places to visitare marked on the area map

Starsindicate works of art

and architectural features

that no visitor should miss

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p267 and pp280–81

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4pm Sun–Fri; 16 Oct–15 May: 11am–

The town of Berchtesgaden, nestling in an Alpine valley

Hitler’s famous “Eagle’s Nest’’

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p266 and p280

Stone reliefs on the Gothic altar in Martinskirche

Side entrance to the Gothic

Oct–Mar; closed 1am–3pm Mon & Fri)

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MUNICH & THE BAVARIAN ALPS

DISCOVERING MUNICH & THE BAVARIAN

ALPS 1011 PUTTING MUNICH & THE BAVARIAN ALPS

ON THE MAP 1215

A PORTRAIT OF THE BAVARIAN ALPS 1629 MUNICH & THE BAVARIAN ALPS THROUGH THE YEAR 3033

THE HISTORY OF MUNICH & BAVARIA 3449

A s well as the natural beau

A

lakes, nature reserves and

dense forests, Munich and

the Bavarian Alps boast a rich

architectural heritage The

regions wonderfully ornate

castles and grand palaces are

tament to the wealth and lavish ifestyle of former kings and noblemen, while its fine Baroque churches and mona- steries are evidence of the ecclesiastical wealth enjoyed

by the church The following pages highlight the most popular sights in Bavaria.

Muncheners making the most of

the city’s many cafés and bars

Frescoes on the Old Town Hall, Lindau

MUNICH

• World-class art galleries

• Café culture

• Breweries and beer gardens

Bavaria’s capital is chic,

cosmopolitan and stylish and

its districts have their own

distinct character Take a

stroll around the old town,

Marienplatz (see pp56-57),

with its shopping streets or

venture along the Isar(see

p87) and through the quaint

Englisher Garten (see p106).

Café culture forms an

integral part of Muncheners’

lives and there are coffee

houses such asDallmayr (see

p276) and little cafés around

Gärtnerplatz(see p64)

where you can have the

obligatory Kaffee und

Kuchen (coffee with cake)

Equally characteristic are

Munich’s various beer

gardens and the brewery

cellar taverns such as

Hofbräuhaus (see p84) Take

in the art museums on regentenstraße and in the Museum District, as well asthe privately owned galleries

Prinz-in the University District

Cruising the Danube near Kelheim, Lower Bavaria

Be inspired by churches at

Kapuzinerkirche Hl in

Eichstätt (see p163) and the

Kloster Indersdorf (see p171).

LOWER BAVARIA

• Blue Danube river cruise

• Renaissance castle, Burg Trausnitz

• Crystals Museum

The wonderful River Danubewinds its way through Passau and much of Lower Bavaria.Take a river cruise in Passau

(see pp188–91) to see the

Old Town from the river or visit the gorge by boatbetweenWeltenberg and Kelheim (see p182) The

Crystals Museum in

Riedenburg (see p183) boasts

the largest emerald from the Alps and the world’s largestever rock crystal formation, from the United States For asense of Renaissance court life visit Burg Trausnitz(see p181) and admire the

frescoes, tapestries and fine pillars, as well as great views

UPPER BAVARIA (NORTH)

• Schleißheim Palace

• Picturesque monasteries and Baroque churches

• Fabulous forests and rivers

The northern part of Bavariahas a striking landscape full

of forests and rivers In particular, the scenic area of the Altmühl river valley, where hops are grown, is great for cyclists and hikers

A must

A -see is Schleißheim Palace (see pp172–3) This

Baroque masterpiece hasgardens laid out in geometric form, with topiary and canals

For more Baroque treasuresvisit theAsamkirche Maria

de Victoria in Ingolstadt

(see p166) and Scheyern’s

Mariä Himmelfahrtwith its

Baroque Basilica (see p165).

DISCOVERING MUNICH

& THE BAVARIAN ALPS

King Ludwig II’s magical Neuschwanstein castle in the Allgäu

artist’s work The south’s beautiful Five Lake District ismade up of Ammersee,Stamberger See, Pilsensee,Wesslinger See and Wưrthesee Locals swim and sail here in summer The

Alpine Road(see p220–21)

links ancient towns, somewith well-preserved architecture, from Lindau to Berchtesgaden Cross 105bridges, 10 viaducts and 15 tunnels on the 450km (280 miles) of roads stretching along the German Alps

Kưnigssee and the pilgrimage

• Pretty painted villages

The picture perfect lake,

Kưnigssee (see p200) has a

mysterious deep green colour,

a red onion-domed pilgrimage

church and boat tours to

experience the Wall of Echoes

– as each boat pauses, the

sound of the boat’s horn is

echoed back from the cliffs

King Ludwig II’s most

extravagant palace, at

Herrenchiemsee (see p202),

was an attempt to recreate

the palace of Versailles.V This

showpiece is worth a visit

for its lavish interior and

museum about Ludwig’s life

In many of the local villages

in Upper Bavaria look out

for examples of the famous

Lüftlmalerei (see p212), the

art of painting house façades

with nạve rural scenes These

pretty paintings date from the

17th century

UPPER BAVARIA

(SOUTH)

• Lakes and the Alpine Road

• Ancient town centres

• Franz-Marc-Museum

One artist inspired by the

beauty of Bavaria was Franz

Marc The

Franz-Marc-Museum at Kochel am See

(see p219) is worth a visit for

over 150 examples of the

The pretty village of Ulm on the River Iller, in Northern Swabia

(see p248–53) with its canal

bridges has a suitable name of “Venice of theV North” Here, visit the Fuggerei(see p252), commissioned by rich

nick-local merchants who also builtthe castles of the southwest,

or stop by the Roman Museum

finds from local ruins and the

Roman Via Claudia (see p246).

ALLGÄU

• Fairytale Neuschwanstein

• The Romantic Road scenery

• Nerve-racking ski jumps

Enjoying a spectacular mountain setting, the fairytale castleNeuschwanstein (see

castle sits on a craggy rocksurrounded by thick pine forests and was built for King Ludwig II, who was inspired by Wagner’s operas

TheRomantic Road (see p292) is a popular route for

cyclists, hikers and coachparties Launched in the 1950s, Germany’s first tourist route runs between Würzburgand Füssen, taking in medieval towns, famous churches, the Danube and the ancient Roman ViaClaudia route For high ski jumps that will literally take your breath away, visit

Oberstdorf (see p232).

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Central Munich

Central Munich boasts a variety of architectural styles, and

each of the five areas has its own unique atmosphere

Marienplatz, and the Old Town around it, abounds in

old-world architecture, and is the main tourist area Along the

River Isar, green areas are flanked by grand 19th-century

urban thoroughfares The great thoroughfare of

Ludwig-straße/Leopoldstraße sets the tone for the northern quarter,

which includes the picturesque Schwabing and Englischer

Garten districts The suburb of Maxvorstadt to the

northeast has a wealth of museums and art galleries

Asamkirche

Also known as the Church of St Johann Nepomuk, it is named

who built it The finest

is also one of the most oustanding examples

of European Baroque architecture.

Lenbachhaus

The home of the

19th-century portrait

painter Franz von Lenbach

is built in the style of an

Italian villa and is fronted

by a picturesque garden.

New Town Hall

The coat of arms on the

New Town Hall features

the monk who

symbolizes Munich The

city took its name from

the legendary monks

(München

“monk settlement”) who

settled there.

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of the façade is combined with painted pseudo- classical floral ornaments.

Villa Stuck

The painter Franz von Stuck conceived the architectural design and interior decoration of his residence The finely decorated reception rooms and studies combine Art Nouveau, Symbolist and Neo- Classical elements.

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Post office Church

Southern Bavaria is inhabited

by three main groups of people:

a branch of the Swabian tribes

of Württemberg, in the western

region, who are the

descen-dants of the legendary Baiuvarii;

the Upper Bavarians, in the

central region, and the Lower

Bavarians, centred in the

eastern region.

To this day, there are still

distinct regional differences

in the Bavarians’ dialect, folklore and

cuisine and, arguably, in their

men-tality as well The shared

character-istics that they have are a love of

tradition, a certain conservatism and

a strong sense of loyalty to the Free

State of Bavaria (Freistaat Bayern).

Bavarian culture and customs were developed as much in court circles as by the peasantry This development on two social lev- els has left its mark on the char- acter of the people and their traditions The latter include an affinity with the soil, and

a tendency to a certain bor nness and defiance coupled with warm hospi- tality and friendliness These qualities are combined with toler- ance and at times a fondness for absolute rulers and politicians rang- ing from men such as Maximilian I,

-Strauss to eccentrics and dreamers such as Ludwig II.

A PORTRAIT OF THE BAVARIAN ALPS

Bavaria, especially southern Bavaria As it is one of the most picturesque and also one of the most prosperous parts of Europe,

T

this is not so surprising For many foreigners, Bavaria is quintessentially German; this is not, however, strictly true, as Bavaria has always nurtured its own distinct political framework and culture.

Summer in the old quarter of Lindau

White and sky-blue, the colours of the Bavarian flag

THE LANDSCAPE

OF THE BAVARIAN ALPS

When they look up at the sky, the

Bavarians see the colours of their

national flag – white and

sky-blue On clear days the

sky takes on a

Mediter-ranean translucence; this

may be because Bavaria is

the bridge between northern

E u r o p e a n d t h e M e d i

-terranean region Munich is

in fact much closer to

Venice than it is to Berlin.

Bavaria’s mild climate and

varied scenery combine to

create an idyllic landscape.

Lush green meadows

pop-ulated with grey and brown

Alpine cattle alternate with thick

woodland, countless brooks and

streams, rocky outcrops, lakes and

rolling hills, against which rise tic Alpine peaks When the famous

majes-Föhn (warm Alpine wind) blows, the

Alps can be clearly seen from as far as 100 km (60 miles) away The local architecture com-

p l e m e n t s t h e s c e n e r y perfectly Picture-postcard towns and villages, large monasteries, castles and palaces, and village churches with their onion domes fit together in perfect harmony

A typical feature of the region is the way in which high art is combined with kitsch Exquisite Baroque churches and monasteries with ephemeral frescoes stand side by side with simple peasant art, while the splendid Neo-Classical architecture of the

Wittelsbachs contrasts with the enchanting fairy- tale castles of Ludwig II.

RELIGION, TRADITION AND CULTURE

Bavaria is a land of ant, ritualised Catholicism, which once effectively blocked the march of Protestant Germany to Rome It is no surprise then to find that Bavaria

defi-Nativity scene on a house in Hindelang – a 20th-century example of

Lüftlmalerei (the Bavarian art of façade painting)

Bay window of a house

in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Peaceful sub-alpine landscape

has its own conservative ruling party,

the CSU, and that in place of the

ubiq-uitous “Guten Tag”, the people here

greet each other with “Grüß Gott”

(“Greetings to God”) The Bavarian

national anthem, which is played

every day when the local television

station closes for the night, begins

with the words: “God be with you,

land of Bavaria.”

Catholic ritual is omnipresent –

dur-ing the celebration of Sunday Mass, at

innumerable church fairs, and

during processions and pilgrimages.

However, piety expresses an

affirma-tion of life rather than prudishness.

Many stereotypes are attached to the

Bavarians: among the best known are

green hats with feathers in them, short

Lederhosen and knee-socks,

beer-mugs joyfully held on high.

Folk traditions have

survived too: perhaps

nowhere else in the

world is there such a

proliferation of folk

fes-tivals and music groups

Almost everywhere you

can see the characteristic but

region-ally differentiated men’s Trachten,

which includes a short jacket with

bone buttons, and the women’s

Dirndl, with their wide, low-cut

dresses and a narrow waistcoat

Simplified versions of these costumes

are also worn as everyday clothing,

even by Bavarian politicians.

More refined and lavish versions

are worn when attending official

functions or going to the opera.

Beer-drinking is another

inte-gral part of Bavarian folk

tradi-tion Some 1,100 breweries work

to quench beer-lovers’ thirst

Bavaria has some of the oldest

breweries in the world

(includ-ing the Weihenstephan brewery),

and it was the first place where a

ducal decree (1516) banned the

use of any other ingredients than ley, hops and water in beer-making The best way to drink beer is from a large, litre mug, known as a Maß, or

bar-“measure’’, preferably in a beer den beneath a chestnut tree, in the cel- lars of a monastic brewery, or in a marquee to the strains of folk music,

gar-as during the famous Oktoberfest.

THE SOURCES OF BAVARIA’S WEALTH

For centuries farming and trade have been the main source of Bavaria’s wealth It is the largest supplier of farm produce in Germany It also has the largest hop harvest in the world After World War II Bavaria’s economy expanded enormously, with some of Germany’s largest companies based here, such

as Audi, BMW and Siemens Bavaria has chemicals, aircraft, printing, elec- tronics and tourism industries.

Futuristic style of the BMW works in Munich

Decoration for a maypole

The Maß – the best way to drink beer

Landscape of the Bavarian Alps

Southern Bavaria is one of Germany’s most picturesque

and scenically varied regions To the south it is

bordered by the Alps, with their breathtaking limestone

peaks and verdant slopes To the north it is bounded by

the Danube, with its marshy flood plains The region’s

landscape consists of undulating hills and many lakes

and mountain streams, which were formed by glaciers

during the Ice Age Much of the terrain takes the form

of pasture and fields, or is covered in forests, while

industrialization has remained unobtrusive

SOUTHERN BAVARIAN LAKES

Huge glaciers that meltedcenturies ago left many lakes in southern Bavaria.Their limpid waters attractwatersports enthusiastsand swimmers Thisbreathtakingly beautifulenvironment is ideal for walking and many other outdoor activities

A hop plantationin Hallertau, which is

the largest hop-producing region in Bavaria

Wooden poles overgrown with

hops are a characteristic sight.

Mountain streams have over millennia

cut their way through the Alpine rocks,

creating scenic gorges The picturesque

Wimbachklamm is accessible to hikers.

This marinaon Chiemsee, also known as the Bavarian Sea, is one of the finest spots

in southern Bavaria for amateur yachting.

Alpine meadowsare covered in lush grass which produces high- quality hay and provides rich grazing for cattle.

Mountain peaks

with breathtaking escarpments are a common sight.

Local buildings

harmonize with the surrounding landscape.

Forests are thick and

extensive, many of them

in a pristine state.

The Zugspitze, rising to a

height of 2,962 m (9,718 ft),

is the highest German peak.

The grey-brown Alpine cow

is especially common in the Allgäu, a region known for its dairy products.

Edelweiß

is an increasingly rare sight in the Alps This protected Alpine flower

is a favourite decorative motif in the Bavarian national costume.

Marmots

peep out from mountain screes and crevasses, emitting their characteristic whistling call.

Ravens

appear in large flocks over ploughed fields, search- ing for worms and leftover grains of corn.

The gentian is the

“national” flower of Bavaria It is honoured

in song and is used in making the famous gentian schnapps.

Trout is the most common species of fish to be found in Bavaria’s mountain streams.

They thrive in the clear, unpolluted waters.

Butterflies

share the flowery Alpine meadows with bees, gadflies and grasshoppers The most colourful of the butterflies is the peacock butterfly.

Goatsare able to negotiate rough terrain and steep slopes and are a common sight on mountain hikes.

PLANTS AND ANIMALS OF THE BAVARIAN ALPS

Southern Bavaria’s varied natural scenery has remained largely unspoiled thanks to careful protection and cleanair Animals and plants occur in several bands of vegetation While in the higher parts of the Alps only mosses and lichens grow, at altitudes of under 1,500 m (4,900 ft) there is an abundance of flora and fauna The forests contain a wealth of plants, animals and birds,while the extensive meadows and marshes are covered in various grasses, and the clear waters of the rivers andlakes are home to many species of fish The parks and nature reserves help to preserve endangered species

Architecture of the Bavarian Alps

The architectural landscape of southern

Bavaria features a large number of

churches and monasteries Thesenoble buildings, in perfect harmony with the surrounding landscape, are

topped by onion-domed towers

Although each architectural era created

a legacy of fine buildings, it was duringthe Baroque period (the late 16th tothe early 18th century) that the region flourished architecturally New churches were built, and existing ones endowed with stunning ornamentation In southern

Bavaria architectural splendours were built in the 19th

century, including the fairy-tale residences of Ludwig II

Altenstadt basilica is one of Bavaria’s many Romanesque buildings.

GOTHIC

The Gothic style of architecture is

widely represented in Bavaria,

although its impact in Europe went

far beyond this region As well as in

surviving town houses, the Gothic

style in Bavaria is seen in fortified

residences and religious buildings

A specific regional characteristic is

the wide nave of Gothic churches

The oldest Gothic church was built

in Laufen The largest is the

Frauen-kirche in Munich, and the most

resplendent is the Martinskirche in

Landshut The use of pointed arches

and ribbed vaulting made it possible

to create much higher, light-filled

spaces Gothic architecture reached

its apogee in the mid-15th century

The Archangel Michael overcoming Satandisplays

dramatic poses typical of Mannerism.

The façade of the Arsenal at Augsburg, designed by Joseph Heintz the Elder in

1607, is a fine example of Mannerism, distinguished by a flat façade and the rejection of Classical proportions.

RENAISSANCE AND MANNERISM

The Renaissance reached Bavaria from Italy via

Augsburg, where in 1510 the Renaissance chapel of

the Fugger family was built This set the style for

town houses (as at Neuburg and Augsburg) At the

end of the century, Renaissance style was overtaken

by Mannerism, which departed from Classical forms

One of the main Mannerist architects was Elias Holl

Entrance to the church of St Ulrich and St Afra, Augsburg

The w

set un broke pedim

with ere

The windows of the Neues Schloss in Schleißheim are framed and decorated with rosettes and mock-antique masks Doorways and windows with exuberant ornamentation were highly characteristic of Baroque architecture.

BAROQUE

No architectural style left such a

strong impression on southern

Bavaria as did the Baroque Its

highly decorated, almost

theatri-cal style held a special appeal,

and it was expressed in skilfully

articulated spaces to which

abundant ornamentation was

added The first Baroque

build-ings were by Italian architects,

but a local school was soon

producing work of the highest

quality The Bavarian Baroque

reached its height with the Asam

brothers (see pp66 & 68–9).

The façade of the church

of Berg am Laim illustrates the typical Baroque rhythm

of architectural elements, accentuated by cornices, pilasters and columns.

The vaulting of Passau Cathedral is a fine example of late Baroque forms derived directly from Italy Despite the excessive stuccowork and elaborate fresco decorations, the main architectural elements are still discernible.

Sculpturesin a style evoking the glory of ancient Greece were carved by Ludwig Schwanthaler.

This capital of a column in the portico of the Glyptothek is decorated with typically Ionic scrolled volutes.

The Prinz-Carl-Palais, by the architect Karl von Fischer, is a typical example of early Neo-Classical architecture It is fronted by an imposing portico with Ionic columns supporting a tympanum.

NEO-CLASSICISM

The Neo-Classical style developed in

France in the 18th century After 1806,

when Bavaria proclaimed itself a

kingdom, it was adapted to serve the

purposes of the Napoleonic Empire

Style Neo-Classicism reached the peak

of its splendour after 1816, but was

confined to Munich Ludwig I intended

to rebuild the city to turn it into “Athens

on Isar” To this end the court architect

Leo von Klenze designed many fine

buildings, with references to ancient

Greece and the Italian Renaissance

The tympanumof the Propyläen contains sculptures of Otto

I among kings of the Greeks Otto I abdicated before the

building was completed The people mocked: “Do not glorify

the day before the sun is down – the proof is the Propyläen.”

An akroterion is a decorative element often used in Classical architecture.

Monasteries and Abbeys

p

The Chapel of the Holy Cross is one of the few monastic chapels open only to monks Such chapels

ings and for silent prayer away from the outside world.

Their decoration is

no less lavish than that of the rest of the monastery.

The church interior is graced

by numerous altars, and the architectural features, mouldings, paintings and furniture combine

to form a unified whole.

A surprising feature of the

large number of monasteries and abbeys that are

to be seen here The first Benedictine

monastery was founded in the early Middle

Ages In the 11th and 12th centuries monastic

establishments were built in the foothills of

the Alps The next period at which such

building activity flourished was the Baroque,

when medieval abbeys were rebuilt and

new ones, such as Ottobeuren and Ettal,

were constructed In the 18th century,

with the spirit of the Enlightenment fine

Figure of the

emperor in

Kaisersaal

The staircase, a feature of conscious pomp and elegance, shows the importance that abbeys attached to the appearance of public reception areas.

The Library reflects the scientific and cultural aspirations

of Bavarian churches The walls are lined with decorated shelves that harmonize with the leather- bound volumes they hold.

Ottobeuren Abbeyblends with the sub-Alpine landscape in

a way that is characteristic of many Bavarian monasteries,

with their red roofs and their tall belfries In spring and

summer, the entire building stands in striking contrast to

the lush greenery with which it is surrounded.

The Kaisersaal, or imperial hall, was one of the abbey’s countless reception rooms

It underlines the abbey’s close association

The ceremonial hallwas designed for official gatherings

Art in the region developed against the background of the major trends in European art The ecclesiastical andducal protectorate, and later that of free cities, led to the development of important artistic centres in Munich, Augsburg, Landshut and Passau Schools

of painting, sculpture and craftsmanship developed as early as the Gothic period, and the Renaissance and Mannerism also left their mark But it was in theBaroque period that the arts of fresco,stucco and sculpture reached their peak Folk elements

meanwhile were always a feature of Bavarian art, taking

the form of votive images, roadside shrines and mural

paintings on village houses

This man with a shieldis

a late Gothic figure from Ottobeuren Abbey.

Masksare placed at the intersections between panels.

Bas-reliefs

are of rical and Old Testament subjects.

allego-Door handlestake the shape of lions’ masks.

The bronze doorsof Augsburg Cathedral show the influence of Byzantine art They initially consisted of four wings, with a total

of 224 reliefs Only 35 remain today.

Late Gothic

miniature

in Passau Museum

The Moriskentänzeris one of ten

expressive carvings by Erasmus

Grasser of Moors in a court dance

According to custom, the men would

dance in sophisticated poses, and

capture the ladies’ attention with

elegant gestures These sculptures are a rare example of secular subject matter in Gothic art.

Art of the Bavarian Alps

ROMANESQUE AND GOTHIC ART

Romanesque art is characterized by a

stylization rooted in Byzantine art As

well as the crafts and sculpture,

south-ern Bavaria has interesting examples

of mural painting The windows of

Augsburg Cathedral are among the

finest in Europe The Gothic period,

which continued until about 1520,

brought in a new style, primarily

in the way that human figures were

depicted, with flowing garments and

expressive gestures

By about 1500 Gothic

painting and ture had their greatest exponents

sculp-in Jan Polack andErasmus Grasser

c.1570– 1642

During the Baroque period the walls of churches,

monasteries and palaces were lavishly covered with stucco

mouldings and trompe-l’oeil paintings An important centre l

for such art was Wessobrunn From the 18th century the

prominent Asam brothers began working in Bavaria

(see p66) Lüftlmalerei, paintings on the walls of houses

(see p212), is a typically Bavarian phenomenon Fine

Rococo sculpture was produced by

Ignaz Günther and Johann Baptist Straub, while the court artist François Cuvilliés refined the art

of Rococo decor to perfection

RENAISSANCE AND MANNERISM

The southern Bavarian Renaissance

was influenced by Italy and the

Netherlands, but it developed its

own elements The crafts

flourished, and in sculpture and

painting new themes, such as

genre scenes, classical mythology

and portraiture, appeared The

most prominent artists of the time

were the Augsburg painters Hans

Holbein the Elder, Hans Burgkmair

and Christoph Amberger

Manner-ism developed in the mid-16th

century, its most outstanding

ex-ponents in southern Bavaria being

Hans Krumper and Hans Reichle

This ornamental cup dating from 1570–80

was made in one of Augsburg’s famous

goldsmiths’ workshops The work of

Augsburg goldsmiths graced many

churches and grand houses in Europe.

This amber sculpture from the Bürgersaal in Munich by Ignaz Günther embodies all the elements

of the late Baroque: pathos, levity and dynamism.

This portrait of Felicitas Welserby Christoph Amberger is typical of Renaissance portraiture in that it shows a certain rigidity of pose combined with a care to capture the sitter’s individuality and accurately depict the costume The coloration reveals a Venetian influence.

This traditional wardrobe

is from the renowned furniture-making centre in Bad Tölz The distinctive furniture made here was covered in folk paintings.

Sideboards, beds and the carts associated with the St Leonard’s Day festival can be seen in the town’s local history museum.

1725–75

Ignaz Günther

1692–1750 Egid Quirin Asam

1686–1739

Cosmas Damian Asam

Bavaria is a land where old local

traditions and folklore are cultivated and

revered Almost every town and village

has its own local holiday, with folk

bands, beer-drinking and general

merriment in the streets These events

variously involve folk dancing and

fire-work displays The Catholic tradition is

strong in the region, the countless religious

feast days and church processions often

coinciding with fairs Many places also

commemorate local historical events

large number of barrels (or today, cases) of theBavarians’ favourite drink.Next day the trunk isdecorated and ceremonially raised in the village square.According to tradition, themaypole, the pride of every local community, ensures asuccessful year The custom

of raising the maypole, the tree of life, goes back to medieval times Usually painted in the Bavarian colours of white and blue, maypoles are decorated withthe emblems of local craftsand crowned with a largewreath Traditions includedancing round the maypoleand climbing up it to reach the prizes tied to the wreath

Traditions of the Bavarian Alps

PASSION PLAYS

Once every ten years the

mountain village of

Oberammergau becomes the

centre of the Easter mystery

plays (Passionsspiele (( e that )

are performed over four

months from late May to

early October This tradition

dates back to 1633

At that time, so as to ward

off the plague, the villagers

vowed to act out scenes

from the Passion of Christ

Initially these were staged

outside the church, but since

1930 they have been held in

a special open-air theatre

with seating for 4,800 The

performances, lasting from

morning until late afternoon

with a break in between,

take place five days a week

According to tradition, the

actors must be residents of

Oberammergau by birth The

lavish decorations and the

costumes, of which there are over 1,000, are provided

by the local populace The scenes, accompanied by achoir and music, are performed by amateur actors

in a natural and expressive way Against the backdrop

of mountains they have the

realism of tableaux vivants.

The Passion plays have gained world renown, and tickets must be booked well in advance A similar tradition exists in certainother Bavarian villages

Christ stumbling under the Cross during the Oberammergau Passion play

LANDSHUT WEDDING

In 1475, Landshut saw the wedding of Georg, son of Ludwig the Rich, and Princess Jadwiga of Poland, daughter of Casimir Jagiellon The celebrations lasted eight days, and went down in history as one of the most sumptuous in medieval Bavaria

Since 1903 the Landshut Wedding (Landshuter Fürstenhochzeit) has been re-enacted every four years

on three weekends in Juneand July About 100,000visitors come to enjoy thishistoric drama Medieval costumes are worn duringthe young couple’s triumphal procession, which is accompanied by court dances and by tests of theskills of knights and squires

Residents of a small town joining forces to raise the maypole

Landshut

Wedding

newly-weds

THE OKTOBERFEST

This famous beer festival,

the world’s largest, began in

1810, when Princess

Theresa von

Sachsen-Hildburghausen married

Ludwig (later to become

King Ludwig I), the heir to

the Bavarian throne Horse

races were organized in a

meadow on the edge of

Munich, which was named

the Theresienwiese in

honour of the young lady It

was decided to make this a

regular event, and gradually

it became customary to

organize agricultural shows,

which were combined with

equestrian events and

shoot-ing contests To these were

added roundabouts, beer

tents and fireworks, thus

giving rise to the present

Oktoberfest (it was moved

from October to September

due to the weather)

Today the Oktoberfest

attracts some 6 million

visitors from all over the

world Year after year the

record for amounts of beer,

sausages and roast chickens

consumed at the festival is

broken The Oktoberfest

opens with a grand

procession of waggons of

the city’s seven main

breweries accompanied by

folk bands On the stroke of

noon, the city’s mayor

broaches a barrel of beer to

open the two-week revelry

surrounding the city’s fair

THE CHRISTMAS FAIR

Advent, which comes from

the Latin adventus, “the

coming”, is the period in the Christian calendar leading up

to Christmas It starts on the fourth Sunday before 24 December In Bavaria this period is marked with a number of rituals

Advent candles are lit

in churches and in people’shouses, and special biscuits

known as Plätzchen are

baked In the larger towns and cities,market stalls are set

up for the Christmasfairs, which are

Wooden decorations,Nativity figures and allsorts of delicacies andgifts are displayed for sale round the tree

The air is filled withthe delicious aroma

of freshly baked gingerbread and roastedalmonds The rituals also include drinking hot wine

(Glühwein

St Nicholas and the WickedWitch distribute apples and nuts to children, and the holiday atmosphere is heightened by the joyful

singing of carollers Thebest Christmas fairs in southern Bavaria are those that are held in Munich,Augsburg and Landsberg

Illuminated tree, the focal point

of a Christmas market

BAVARIAN FOLK COSTUME

To many people, traditional Bavarian folk costumeepitomizes Bavaria Nowhereelse in Europe is traditionalcostume so widely celebrated, and no other national costumehas become sowell known in Europe Thetraditional men’s

Lederhosen, leather

shorts held up by leather braces and sometimestied up at the knees; the

Janker, a waistcoat of

rough cloth with bone

buttons; the Gamsbart,

a hat with a goat’s hair tassel, and asym-metrically tied shoes Women wear the

Dirndl, a blouse with

puffed sleeves, a corset,

a waistcoat, a crimped skirt and an apron Jewellery andornaments are animportant element of Bavarian costume Men’strousers are decorated withchains with pendants and their shirts have letters, medallions, coats of armsand embroidery The womenwear intricate necklaces andrichly decorated chokers

Bavarian in national costume Folksong and beer – the world-renowned Oktoberfest

T he Bavarian calendar is

filled with picturesque

rituals, historical spectacles,

festivals and trade fairs The type

of event depends on the season,

and in Bavaria they are varied

indeed The snowy winter is the

season for skiers and

toboggan-ists, while hikers enjoy walking

along the scenic and

well-marked trails From springtime

onwards, colourful paragliders can be spotted as they soar over mountain peaks, and the appear- ance of sails heralds the start of the yachting season on the lakes The summer attracts moun- taineers, hikers and watersports enthusiasts Almost everyone can be seen during the famous Oktoberfest, which starts in the middle of September.

M U N I C H & T H E B AVA R I A N

A L P S T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R

SPRING

Spring comes early here

At the beginning of April,

fruit trees are in blossom,

Alpine meadows

become carpeted

with flowers,

mostly crocuses,

and the melting

Alpine snow creates

the symbolism of the

egg Houses are

decorated with

ornamental

twigs with

Easter eggs

hanging from them, while

excited children are up early

searching for eggs In May,

the blossom of chestnut trees

forms a canopy over

reawakening beer-gardens

MARCH

Starkbierfest(between

Ash Wednesday and

Good Friday) Munich The

Festival of Strong Beer

commemorates the strong

ale that was drunk by

Pauline monks as they

observed the Lenten fast

APRIL

Biennale(April/May),

Munich Germany’s largest

contemporary music festival

Augsburger Plärrer(two weeks after Easter), Augs-

burg Biannual event (alsoheld in September) Thelargest folk festival in Swabia, the counterpart

(last two weeks in April),

international jazz festivalthat takes place in Burghausen

MAY Trachten- und Schützen- festzug(first Sunday in May), Passau Large

procession of folk groupsand bands from Bavaria and Austria open this annual fair

Maibaumaufstellen

(May 1) Virtually every

Bavarian community honours the custom of Raising the

It begins in the Hofbräuhaus

to the sounds of a children’sorchestra

Fronleichnam(Thursday after Trinity Sunday).

According to Catholictradition, this religiousfestival in honour of Corpus Christi is marked

by countless processions The most picturesque are

in Lenggries and Bad Tölz

Typical Fronleichnam (Corpus Christi) procession

The Augsburger Plärrer – the biggest traditional holiday in Swabia

Turnfest mascot

Crocus from

a meadow

On summer days the blue

skies over Bavaria reach an

almost Mediterranean

intensity Cascades of flowers

hang from balconies and

window boxes Bathers and

watersports enthusiasts are

drawn to the crystal-clear

rivers and lakes Almost

every resort has its own

summer festival, and these

celebrations are particularly

impressive when they are

held by a lakeside They

feature regattas, firework

displays and angling contests

JUNE

Stadtgeburtstag(one

weekend in June), Munich.

Festival commemorating the

foundation of the city

Filmfest München

(last week in June),

Munich One of

Eu-rope’s liveliest and

most important film

festivals

Tollwood Festival

(four weeks

June–July), Munich,

Olympic Park Festival of

jazz, rock and theatre

JULY

Kaltenberger Ritterspiele

(first 3 weekends in July),

Kaltenberg Castle, near

Landsberg Jousting

tournaments re-enacting

medieval traditions

Münchener Opernfest-spiele

(1–31 July), Munich Festival

of classical opera, ballet,

singing and music

Landshuter Hochzeit(every four years, the next in 2009),

Landshut Spectacle orating the marriage of Georg,son of Ludwig the Rich, and

commem-Princess Jadwiga (see p28).

Schwäbischwerder Kindertag

(1st Wednesday and Sunday

in July),

Donau-wörth Childrendressed in historical costume re-enactimportant events in the history of the town

Agnes Bernauer spiele(every four years, the next in 2011), Straubing Historical

Fest-theatre festival telling the story

of Duke Albrecht A IIIand Agnes A Bernauer, anAugsburg barber’s daughter

A

Memminger Fischertag(early

angling competition

AUGUST Auer Dult (Jakobidult)

(July/August), Munich One

of three annual fairs held in the Au district of Munich

Schleißheimer konzerte(July/August),

Schloß-Schleißheim Concerts of classical music

Gäubodenfest(around Aug), Straubing Folk festival

mid-combined with an agricultural and industrial fair, Bavaria’s second largest after the Oktoberfest

Allgäuer Festwoche

(mid-August), Kempten.

Exhibition of the Allgäu gion’s economic and culturalachievements, also including

re-an importre-ant folk festival

König-Ludwig-Feier(24 Aug), Oberammergau

Festival commemorating the death of Ludwig II, whodrowned in the Starnberger See There is singing,dancing and speeches

Sunshine

The greatest number

of sunny days are concentrated in the period from June to September May can also be sunny December is the least sunny month.

Agnes Bernauer Festspiele in Straubing

Sunflowers, symbols of summer,

a common sight in Bavaria Poster for the

Auer Dult fair

Bavarian autumns are often

warm and sunny The forests

turn every shade of red and

gold, and mushroom-pickers

return with baskets filled

with many species of edible

fungi The mountain pastures

echo to the sounds of

herded cows and sheep, and

the air is filled with the smell

of decaying leaves and

smoke

In autumn the sky

becomes dull and overcast,

and the shortening days are

chilly and damp The first

overnight frosts set in, and

mornings often start with a

blanket of thick fog, which

causes problems for road

and air traffic

SEPTEMBER

Oktoberfest(16 days

leading up to the 1st Sunday

in October), Munich.

The city’s world-famous

beer festival (see p29).

Viehscheid(second half

celebration of the cattle being brought down from summer pastures in many areas, including Hindelang,Oberstdorf and Königssee

OCTOBER Oktoberfest(see September).

Auer Dult (Herbst Dult)

(third Saturday in October),

Munich The third of theannual fairs held in the Audistrict of Munich

Mode-Woche(week after the Oktoberfest), Munich The

second major fashion event of

the year (see February).

Systems(third week in October), Munich.

International IT and telecommunications fair held

on the grounds of the NeueMesse in Munich

Bavaria In many areas,such as Bad Tölz, Schliersee,Murnau and Benediktbeuern,processions on horseback

or in painted carts takeplace in honour of StLeonard, regarded by Bavarians as the patron saint of horses In BadTölz the horses re-enact Christ’s journey on the road

to Calvary in a processionafter receiving a blessing

St Martin’s Day

(11 November)

throughout Bavaria Inalmost every town and village processions are held

in which children take part, carrying lanterns Pretzelsthat they have been given hang from the lanterns Theprocessions are often led by

a horse-rider in a long cloak who represents St Martin

Rain and snowfall

Although the autumn drizzle is the most unpleasant, the heaviest rainfall occurs in summer Intensive snowfall

is common in winter, particularly in the Alps and the foothills.

Jan Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

One of the vast beer tents

at the Oktoberfest

Bavarian women in a painted cart on St Leonard’s Day

As autumn draws to a

close, people light

the Advent candles on the

Advent wreaths in their

homes every week, while

the smell of baking biscuits

wafts through the air At the

beginning of December

skiers set out on excursions,

and if the lakes and canals

are sufficiently thickly

frozen, they are soon

covered with skaters

Winters in southern Bavaria

are unpredictable They may

be icy and snowy, or mild

and snow-free December

is marked by the carnival

spirit Village carnivals are

colourful affairs At events

associated with driving off

winter with witchcraft,

masks and costumes are

a common sight

DECEMBER Christkindlmarkt(early December to Christmas Eve),

throughout southern Bavaria

Christmas fair inauguratingthe Christmas season with the ritual raising of the Christmas tree in the town

or village square

Sylvester(31 December).

Sumptuous balls and receptions mark the NewYear, which is ushered in Y

with lavish firework displays

JANUARY Four Ski-Jump Tournament(1–4 January),

Oberstdorf, Partenkirchen Famous ski-jumping tournament

Garmisch-Schäfflertanz(Epiphany to Shrove Tuesday), Munich.

The Dance of the Coopers street festival held every seven years (the next in 2012) to commemorate the passing of the plague in the 15th century

FEBRUARY Tanz der Marktfrauen

(last day of Carnival),

Munich Market women of the Viktualienmarkt dress

up and perform a dance

Skifasching(last Sunday

of Carnival), Firstalm.

Bavaria’s most renowned skiing carnival, including acompetition for the best fancy dress Also held inGarmisch-Partenkirchen

ModeWoche, Munich.Famous fashion designers,models and clients meet for this biannual event

Temperatures

Temperatures are highest in the summer, although temperatures rarely exceed 30°C (86°F) Winters are frosty and snowy, although they can be mild The coldest temperatures are naturally in the mountains.

AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURES

O ver the centuries, despite its location in the heart of Europe,

southern Bavaria gradually built up its distinct character, becoming a geographically and culturally unified entity Although it never played a leading role, it was one of the strongest duchies in Germany The Wittelsbach dynasty ruled Bavaria until

1918, when the Free State of Bavaria (Freistaat Bayern) was proclaimed After World War II Bavaria opposed centralization.

EARLY SETTLEMENT

The first farming communities

settled in southern Bavaria in

the 4th millennium BC.

Traces of their presence,

in the form of the

foun-dations of peasant huts,

were found near Kelheim

in the 1960s During the

p e r i o d o f t h e A l t h e i m

culture (about 3900–3500 BC),

peasant settlements were

often surrounded by fortified

ditches During the Bronze

Age (1800–1200 BC) the pace of

cul-tural development accelerated, and

a wealth of items from burials and

many everyday tools of that period

have been discovered During the

Hallstatt period, iron began to be

used in preference to bronze.

THE CELTS

The Hallstatt period was marked by

the appearance in Bavaria of the

Celts, whose origins are not clear to

this day The Celts were distinguished

by their loose tribal and family ties

The Vindelici tribe of Celts settled in

the territory between the rivers Inn and Lech, and their capital was Manching, near Ingolstadt The Bavarian Celts maintained links with the Mediterranean world, particularly with the Etruscans They imported Etruscan, and sometimes Greek, luxury goods Many later Bavarian towns, among them Regensburg ( R a t i s b o n ) , K e m p t e n , Straubing and Passau, were founded by the Celts.

THE ROMAN EMPIRE

In 15 BC the Roman army, under Drusus and Tiberius, conquered the Celts and reached the Danube This became the frontier of the Roman Empire and a fortified wall was built

to defend it Southern Bavaria was divided into the provinces of Raetia and Noricum The city of Vindelicorum, today Augsburg, was founded by the Emperor Augustus, whose name it still bears It became the administrative centre of this part

of the Roman Empire.

AD 166–80

The Marcomanni launch attacks that devastate southern Bavaria

2000–1800 BC

Appearance of the first bronze artifacts

1200 BC

Appearance of the earliest Beaker culture

AD 233–83

Fifty years of conflict between the Romans and Germanic tribes

THE END OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE

After two centuries of peaceful

devel-opment, Raetia and Noricum were

attacked by two Germanic tribes,

the Marcomanni and the

Alamanni The first attacks

were repulsed by Emperor

Marcus Aurelius, but the

province suffered

destruc-tion in the mid-3rd century

by invasions and civil war.

Towards the end of the 3rd

T

century stability returned

for about 100 years, but

after AD 400 a new wave

of Germanic invasions

toppled Roman control.

From those war-torn and troubled times there

are records of the

activi-t i e s o f activi-t h e e a r l y

Christians – St Afra, the martyr who

was burned in Augsburg, and St

Severinus, who revived missionary

activity in the region.

THE GREAT MIGRATION AND

EARLY CHRISTIANITY

The origins of the Bavarians

are still imperfectly known

Most historians believe

that a new tribe,

whom the Romans

knew as the Baiovarii,

appeared south of the

Danube, in the area of

present-day southern

Bavaria, in 450–550

They are thought to

have originated from

a Germanic tribe

cen-tred in Boiohaemum,

what is today the

Czech Republic The

Baiovarii were joined

by remnants of other

Germanic and Celtic tribes and by Romanized people At the same time, settlers started appearing to the west

of the River Lech The Alamanni tribes became the neighbours of the Baiovarii to the west, while to the north, the region a few dozen kilo- metres beyond the Danube was con- quered by the Franks This situation continued virtually unchanged to the present day, with the addition of the territories beyond the River Lech and Bavaria’s acquisition of the Franconian lands after 1803.

Most of the inhabitants of the region retained their pagan beliefs for some time, and Christianity took hold only very slowly Irish, Anglo-Saxon and Frankish missionaries started preach- ing in the region in the early 7th cen- tury At the turn of the 7th century, numerous bishops were active in Bavarian lands: Emmeram in Ratisbon, Korbinian in Freising, and Rupert

in Salzburg In 739 there were bishoprics in Ratisbon, Freising, Pas- sau and present-day Salzburg They were set up and run by the Anglo-Saxon missionary bishop, St Boniface It is noteworthy that the impor- tance of their sees continued for the next millennium A key role in the establish- ment of Christianity and the nurturing of cultural development from the late 7th cen- tury and throughout the 8th century was played by the many Benedictine monas- teries, particularly by those of Weltenburg and Benediktbeuern.

in Weltenburg

555Garibald I becomes Duke

of Bavaria

482Death of the missionary

St Severinus

in Bavaria

c 630

Lex Baiuvariorum, the first book

DISCOVERING MUNICH & THE BAVARIAN

ALPS 1011 PUTTING MUNICH & THE BAVARIAN ALPS

ON THE MAP 1215

A PORTRAIT OF THE BAVARIAN ALPS 1629 MUNICH &... mountain hikes.

PLANTS AND ANIMALS OF THE BAVARIAN ALPS< /b>

Southern Bavaria’s varied natural scenery has remained largely unspoiled thanks to careful protection and cleanair