A mans guide to overcoats

You probably want to be taken seriously, get good service at a restaurant, and make a good first impression when you meet a business partner.

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A Man’s Guide to Overcoats

by Antonio on December 11, 2012 · 4 comments

in Dress & Grooming, Style

You probably want to be taken

seriously, get good service at a

restaurant, and make a good first

impression when you meet a

business partner

Fleece coats from The North Face

may be great for a camping trip and

for outdoor activities, but at your

office job, they make you look like

an amateur, especially if you wear a

suit

When it is cold outside, the only

acceptable outerwear with a suit is

an overcoat But there are a lot of

terms thrown around when

discussing these dressier jackets In

particular – what is the difference

between a topcoat, an overcoat,

and a greatcoat

In a nutshell, the differences all

pertain to weight, style, and

heritage

An overcoat is a long coat

with sleeves that is worn on

top of something else

A topcoat is a lightweight overcoat.

A greatcoat is a heavy, bulky overcoat with a military history

When you buy a coat understanding this distinction, especially when buying online, you can save quite a bit in shipping fees as well as disappointment

Characteristics of a Quality Overcoat

A good overcoat should be warm, fit you, and make you look great

Fabric If you plan to wear your overcoat for years to come, make sure you buy a coat that is

made of 100% wool and that it weighs at least 4 pounds (for average-sized men) In general, heavier coats last longer because the fabric is more durable

Cashmere coats are nice, soft, and warm but they will show wear on the cuffs, the collar, and moths love them In addition, they can double the price of a coat for little to no advantage (in terms of warmth or appearance) With the quality of most wool jacket fabrics these days, they are often just as soft as all but the finest cashmere I find a nice compromise is a wool

cashmere blend – my overcoat is about 10% cashmere

Sleeves The coat sleeves should completely cover the suit sleeve as well as the shirt cuff,

and even reach a little further down This way, you should not get cold on your wrists when you wear gloves with it

Length Traditionally, overcoats were rather long-reaching garments, extending almost all the

way to the ankles These full-length coats are often the coat of choice for seasoned

gentlemen as they can compliment a wide range of figures…to include those of us a bit

rounder in the midsection

Today, most younger men wear their coats knee-length, which is anywhere between the lower part of the knee to slightly above This only compliments men with trim builds and who wear the coat closer to the body It’s a convenient option if you find yourself entering and exiting your automobile multiple times a day

If you pick a length or knee-length coat is a matter of choice, but bear in mind that the full-length coat may be warmer, and can make you look a little more seasoned than the knee-length coat

Fit When you buy an overcoat, make sure to wear a shirt and a sportscoat or suit jacket

because the coat has to fit on top of it

Some men like a looser fit while younger men often prefer a trimmer fit However, if you see X-wrinkles when buttoning your overcoat, it is definitely too tight

Style With regards to style it is once again up to you what you choose The single-breasted

overcoat with notched lapel is a good all-a-rounder whereas the double-breasted peak lapel

overcoat is a little more formal and wears warmer when it is cold because you have two layers

of fabric over your chest

Construction High-quality coats have a sewn canvas, whereas less expensive overcoats have

a fused canvas A sewn canvas is definitely more durable and built to last whereas a poorly glued interlining can come loose after a few years, ruining the garment If money is of no

concern to you, go with a fully canvassed overcoat If not, try to buy fully canvassed suits and

go with a glued overcoat Unlike with a suit, a glued canvas overcoat is acceptable since it is cut looser and you wear it less frequently

Types of Overcoats

In order to be more specific, I want

to introduce you to a number of

classic overcoats which have all

made their mark in men’s clothing

history As such, these styles are

timeless and will look as good today

as they will 20 years from now

Chesterfield

First, let’s look at the Chesterfield

coat Named after the Earl of

Chesterfield, and invented in the

mid-19th century, it was the very

first overcoat of its kind Over the

years, it has only changed

insignificantly and today a

Chesterfield features:

No waist seams or front

darts (up until then, those

were the standard)

Single-breasted fly front

Short, notched lapel

Velvet collar (optional)

Straight side pockets – it looks like a

flap pocket but it could be a jetted

pocket

No cuffs

Single back vent and an otherwise

plain back

Generally, it is about knee-long and in grey

or charcoal, it makes for a great business

coat If you go with a velvet collar, you will

definitely own a conversation starter If you

want to learn more, check out this article on

the Chesterfield coat

Covert Coat

The Covert coat is very similar to the

Chesterfield, but it was designed for hunting

and the outdoors Therefore, it had to be

tailored from particularly sturdy material –

the so-called Covert cloth, named after the

covert bushes It was designed to protect its

wearer from mud, bush encounters,

and of course the weather For that

reason, it had to be very heavy (29

or 30 ounces a yard), sturdy, and

durable Today, the fabric is not

quite as heavy anymore, but it is still

a tweed material made to last It

always comes in a brownish-green

color because it does not show the

dirt very much

A Covert coat usually has the

following:

Single-breasted with a fly

front

Notched lapels

Made of brown-green

Covert cloth

Short topcoat that is just a

little longer than the jacket

beneath

Signature four (sometimes five) lines of stitching at the cuffs and hem, and optionally

on the flap of the chest pocket

Center vent

Two flap pockets with optional ticket pocket

The collar is constructed either of Covert cloth or velvet

Poacher’s pocket (huge inside pocket that can accommodate a newspaper or an iPad) The rows of contrast stitching are a hallmark of the Covert coat and lend it a more casual flair

If you want an overcoat that will be your companion for the next two decades, you should consider this one

It should be noted that if you wear your coat primarily for business, this may not be your best choice

If you’d like to know more about this garment, I recommend this article about the Covert Coat

Trench Coat

The Trench coat is a timeless

classic that was invented in the

trenches of WWI and evolved into a

raincoat that is second to none To

explore the trench coat further,

please read this classic AOM Guide

Paletot

The name Paletot is French and

was used to describe a fairly short

overcoat that was very fitted, but

otherwise could have many

features It could be

double-breasted or single-double-breasted, with

pleats or without, and could have

pockets or not

Today, a Paletot is a classic

business overcoat with the

following features:

Double-breasted with a 6×2 button arrangement

The top buttons have a wider button stance and are

not buttoned at all

It must have peaked lapels

The coat is semi-fitted to fitted and has a flat back

without a belt

Lef t to right: Ulster coat, Guards coat, and a reversible coat.

Especially in a dark, plain fabric, this coat is very versatile

Personally, I think a navy blue or charcoal Paletot overcoat can

be worn to the office, with a tuxedo, at funerals, and pretty

much anywhere else So, if you only have money for a single

overcoat, you’d be hard-pressed not to buy a Paletot To learn

more about this coat, read this Paletot Overcoat article

Guards Coat

The Guards Coat derives from the coat English Officers of the

Guard used to wear It is usually a navy blue overcoat that is

very similar to the Paletot with two basic exceptions:

It has a half belt in the back

It can be

buttoned with

three buttons

or just two

Basically, the Guards

Coat is not very

different than the

Paletot Its back belt

makes it a little

fancier and more

unique but at the

same time it is very

difficult to find one

off the rack If you

strive to be classic

and versatile, yet

unique, the Guards

Coat is the way to

go Otherwise, stick

with the Paletot

Ulster

The name Ulster is derived from the Irish province of Ulster, whose people popularized a

particular tweed overcoat A classic Ulster is:

Rather long, roomy, and double-breasted with either 6 or 8 buttons

Great for cold weather because its Ulster collar makes it easy to protect the neck from the elements

A rough country code with patch pockets, cuffs, and contrast stitching

Made out of heavy, durable Donegal tweed

Belted in the back with an adjustable half-belt

An Ulster is an overcoat for a man who is outside a lot and needs a reliable companion In my opinion, it is an ideal travel coat for the colder months of the year because it is warm, durable, and has big, patch pockets, so nothing can fall out accidentally In addition, the Donegal tweed structure hides dirt and stains

Overall, the Ulster overcoat is for the rugged man who is not all that much into suits but enjoys rugged, high-quality products

Polo Coat

The Polo Coat is an American classic

that originates in England During the

chukkers of a Polo game, the polo

players used to wear a golden-tan

wrap-coat to keep them warm Later,

the belt was substituted with buttons,

and when they started wearing the

coats after the game as well,

spectators noted it and by the end of

the 1920’s the Polo Coat was one of

the most popular ivy league overcoats

A few years later, no well-dressed man

could live without one A Polo Coat has

the following characteristics:

It is made out of golden,

tan-colored camel hair or a 50/50

blend with wool

It has a half-belt or a full belt

It features 6 or 8 buttons

Patch pockets

Peaked lapels or an Ulster

collar with optional cuffs

As you can see, the Polo coat is quite similar to an Ulster overcoat, but it is special because of its camel hair fabric and the golden-tan color

With its light color, the Polo Coat definitely stands out from the crowd If you are looking for an American legend, this is your overcoat

How To Buy An Overcoat

Buying Used

eBay and second-hand stores are

good places if you are a bargain

hunter and look for special styles

Of course, supply is limited and

it requires a lot of work If you do

not have an overcoat yet, I would

advise against eBay because it is

very difficult to get the fit right

Every manufacturer’s sizes run

slightly different Instead, head to

your local thrift stores and check

the racks for overcoats

Make sure the overcoat does not

have stains, as not all of them will

come out at the dry cleaner Also,

double-check for moth holes

because fixing them will be either

very expensive or impossible In

order to make sure you do not have

any surviving moths or their eggs in

your garment, send the overcoat to

the cleaners This will guarantee

that all moths are dead And no, putting clothing in the freezer does not work

Buying New

This overcoat was purchased f or $10 – click here to learn

more.

Buying New

New overcoats are definitely an

easy route, though department

stores often lack variety in

overcoat styles and colors

Chances are, you will find a better

selection at your local haberdasher

and since it is the end of the

season, you will probably be able

to buy a classic overcoat on a

discount

Custom Overcoats

Most men never bother to think

about a custom overcoat,

although it probably provides you

with the best fit and you get

exactly what you want Moreover,

you pay for the quality of the fabric

and the workmanship, not for

marketing and ads

Considering that a classic overcoat

can last for 20 years or longer and

you can get exactly what you want

with a custom piece, you may want

to think about having one made

just for you

Conclusion

In summary, a well-fitted classic

overcoat is a smart investment

you’ll get thousands of wears out

of And every time you put it on,

you’ll instantly step up your style

Even if you’re just wearing jeans

and t-shirt underneath

What do you think? What are your

thoughts on this classic piece of

menswear?

Written by Gentleman Gazette’s Sven Raphael Schneider & Real Men Real Style’s Antonio Centeno