Faults such as tilted horizons, lens obstructions, and framing problems that often result in a subject being chopped in half, are the typical errors of inexperienced photographers or those working with a camera that is new to them. The only cure is patience and attention to detail.
Before exposing each frame, take extra care that the image you see in the viewfinder is the way you want it and that there is nothing obscuring the lens. Your fingers or the camera strap can get in the way, especially if you are using a compact camera. Establish a simple routine for camera care, checking that the lens is not dusty or
smudged, and that the inside of the camera is free of hair, dust, and grit. This will guarantee a high percentage of successful, sharply focused, blemish-free photographs.
Overall blue color-cast (ii) A strong blue cast can be caused by a very smoky atmosphere in the room where a shot is taken or excessive amounts of ultra-violet light, which are particularly associated with coastal areas and mountain landscapes. Attach a clear UV filter to the lens to minimize this problem. A polarizing filter can sometimes have a stronger effect than a UV filter, but it will result in increased exposure times.
Blue color-cast Overall orange color-cast
This usually occurs when film made for use in daylight or flash is exposed indoors by domestic tungsten lighting. Be sure to use the correct film for the lighting conditions or use a correction filter over the camera lens or light source. An orange cast can also occur if flash is bounced off an orange-colored surface before reaching the subject. Use neutral surfaces for bouncing light.
Orange color-cast
Overall blue color-cast (i) This problem is rare and usually the result of exposing tungsten- balanced film by daylight or by flashlight. Again, use the right film for the lighting conditions, or use an appropriate correction filter. A blue cast can also occur if flash is bounced off a blue-colored surface before reaching the subject. Use neutral surfaces for bouncing light.
Blue color-cast
Overall green color-cast In outdoor shots, this usually means that the film is old or has been badly stored. Always check the use-by date on film cartons. A green cast on photographs taken indoors may mean that daylight- balanced film has been exposed by fluorescent lighting. Overcome this problem by finding out precisely what type of fluorescent lighting is being used, then use the a correction filter, if available.
Green color-cast
COLOR-CASTS
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Obstruction
If you are using an SLR camera, always check the viewfinder before taking a photograph to see if there is anything obscuring the lens. If you are using a compact camera, be sure that your fingers and camera strap are well away from the lens, because they will not appear on the direct vision viewfinder.
Lens obstruction
Image distortion
Distortions can be caused by using the wrong type of lens to photograph a particular scene – for example, when a wide-angle lens is used too close to a subject or when a converging vertical distortion results from tilting the camera up to include the top of a tall building. To avoid distortion, be sure always to select the correct lens and camera position.
Distorted image
Flash-lit subject overexposed This occurs when the flash is used too close to the subject, if the wrong aperture is used, or if the flash has been set with the wrong film speed. Follow your flash instructions regarding the correct working distance and aperture required for your unit, and make sure that you set the correct film ISO number on nonautomatic flash units.
Subject overexposed
Unsynchronized flash This results in all or part of the image being black, and is most often associated with SLR cameras;
it is caused by the flash firing when the shutter has only partially cleared the film plane. On manual cameras, check that you have set the flash-synchronization speed (usually 1/125 or 1/60 second) or the lightning flash symbol on the shutter speed dial correctly.
Image partially blacked-out
Parallax error
This occurs when parts of a subject are accidentally omitted. This usually happens when the parallax correction marks in the viewfinder of a compact camera are not taken into account, or the shot is taken too close to the subject. Frame your subject within the marks and do not come in closer than the nearest recommended focusing distance.
Also examine your negatives carefully to check that this problem is not due to a printing error.
Subject partly obscured
Flash fall-off
This describes underexposure of all or part of a flash-lit subject. Check that the subject is within the recommended working distance for your flash unit (assuming that you are shooting indoors with enough reflective surfaces to bounce the light back). Outdoors, flash fall-off is rapid, so move closer to the subject or select a wider aperture. If you are using a manual flash, set it to the correct film ISO number.
Subject underexposed Tilted image
To avoid this problem, look carefully through the viewfinder before taking a picture to make sure that the horizon is parallel to the top or bottom of the frame.
Subject tilted in frame
Vignetting
This shows as dark edges and corners on an image and can be caused if the spread of light from a flash is inadequate for the angle of view of your lens. Fitting a diffuser over the flash or bouncing a flash off reflective surfaces helps.
Vignetting on nonflash images can be caused by using the wrong lens hood on a wide-angle lens, using more than one filter on a lens at the same time, or if a polarizing filter is fixed to a lens.
Vignetted image
FLASH FAULTS
COMPOSITIONAL ERRORS
Overexposure
This is when too much light reaches the film, causing light shadow areas and bleached-out highlights. The fault lies in selecting the wrong shutter speed/aperture combination for the film speed. If overexposure happens consistently on an autoexposure camera, there may be a problem that needs professional repair.
Image overexposed Flat contrast
This is when there is very little difference between the brightest and darkest areas of the image or subject, which is a problem if the photographer is relying on shape to make the image interesting. This problems occurs often in twilight shots. To light an appealing foreground or subject in such conditions, use a fill-in flash to create artificial contrast.
Image with flat contrast
Pale image or colors
Assuming that it is not a lighting problem, washed-out colors or a distinct lack of image contrast are often caused by a dirty lens or lens filter. Make sure all front lens elements, filters, and, on an SLR, the back lens element, are clean and free of scratches.
Image with washed-out colors
Underexposure
Like overexposure, this is when the wrong shutter speed/aperture combination has been selected for the film speed, resulting in too little light reaching the film, which causes heavy shadow areas and dull highlights. If underexposure happens consistently on an autoexposure camera, there may be a problem that needs professional repair.
Image underexposed Camera shake
This results in multiple images of the subject and general blurring.
Adopting a steady, relaxed shooting posture is the best way to avoid it. If the shutter speed being used is very slow and likely to result in camera shake, support the camera on a tripod or level surface, such as a wall or the roof of a car. Using a fast film often allows a sufficiently fast shutter speed to be selected, which will avoid the problem altogether.
Blurred image
Subject movement
Part of the subject is blurred but all stationary parts of the scene are sharp. This occurs when the shutter speed being used is too slow to arrest the rapid movement of part of the subject. If possible, use a faster shutter speed, or find a more head-on camera viewpoint so that subject movement is effectively minimized.
Moving subject blurred
Multiple exposure
More than one image recorded on the same film frame indicates that the film has not been correctly loaded and is therefore not advancing properly. Be sure to follow the loading instructions in your camera manual carefully. If your camera has a rewind crank, check that it turns in the opposite direction from the direction the film is wound (this means that the film is loaded properly).
Double exposure
Excessive contrast
The shadowy areas of the print are too dark or highlight areas too bright. Unfortunately, the
recording ability of film cannot resolve detail in both very bright highlights and deep shadows.
Decide which is more important for the composition of the image and set the exposure accordingly.
Alternatively, wait until contrast is less extreme, or, for close-ups, artificially lessen contrast by using a flash or a reflector.
Excessive contrast
CONTRAST AND EXPOSURE
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Unexposed film
Processed film that is perfectly clear has never been exposed.
This happens as a result of the film not advancing. Follow the loading instructions in your camera manual carefully and always remember to wind the end of an exposed film back inside the cassette.
Unexposed film frame
Blemishes on print
These usually take the form of spots, lines, and scratches on the film caused by dust, dirt, hair, or grit inside the camera. Check the inside of the camera whenever you remove a film. Blemishes or out-of-focus spots are also often due to raindrops on the lens when the photograph was taken.
Out-of-focus spot on image
Film fogging
This happens when non-image- forming light reaches the film, usually when you open the back of a camera before rewinding the film. Remember always to rewind the film before removing it. An ill- fitting or loose camera back can also allow enough light in to cause fogging.
Film fogged by light
Grainy image
Using the wrong film speed results in an overly grainy image.
This usually occurs if extremely fast film is used. It is most apparent when an image is greatly enlarged – a smaller print minimizes it. To avoid excessive graininess, use a slower, finer- grain film with an increased exposure time, or add extra lighting. Grain shows up more in the neutral and light-toned areas of an image.
Overly grainy image
Image out of focus If the final image is partially blurred, the aperture selected may have resulted in insufficient depth of field. Autofocus cameras may focus incorrectly through glass or if the subject is not center-frame.
If the subject is off-center, use the focus lock (if your camera has one) and consult your camera manual regarding potential autofocus problems. If the shutter speed is below 1/30, slight camera shake can also cause this problem.
Image out of focus
Flare
Never point the camera directly at a bright light source unless the lens is adequately shaded, otherwise bright patches of light (flare) will obscure parts of the film and produce a washed-out image. Flare can also be caused by fine scratches on the mat-black interior of the camera.
Flare surrounding light source Red eye
A subject’s eyes glowing red usually happens when the built-in flash on compact cameras and SLRs is very closely aligned with the lens. If you cannot bounce the flashlight from a nearby wall or ceiling before it reaches the subject, use a film that is faster and correct for the available light minus the flash.
Subject’s eyes glowing red
Half-framed image
This happens when you try to squeeze an extra frame of film at the end of a roll. Although film comes in standard lengths, you can occasionally take an extra frame. If the picture is important, however, it is worth taking the shot again when you have reloaded, in case the processing laboratory has to cut into the frame to detach the film from the core or attach a clip to the end while the film is drying.
Half-framed image
MISCELLANEOUS FAULTS