SPRING
After the long Milanese winter, local inhabitants welcome the arrival of spring with a sigh of relief. The pleasant spring breezes clear the air of the notorious Milanese smog and the city seems to take on different colours. On very clear days, if you look northwards you will see the peaks of the Alps, which are still covered with snow – one of the finest views the city affords at this time of year.
Towards the end of spring, TT the clear weather may very well give way to showers and even violent storms, which may blow up in the space of just a few hours, causing problems with city traffic.
This is the season when tourist activity resumes at the lakes. Boat services start up again and the water becomes a major weekend attraction for the Milanese once more.
MARCH
MODIT-Milanovendemoda (beginning of month).The autumn-winter collections of the leading international and Italian fashion designers go on show.
Milano-SanRemo(third Sat). Part of the city cen- tre hosts the start of this prestigious internation- al bicycle race.
Oggi Aperto(third weekend).Monuments and historic buildings usually closed to the public are now open.
BIT. The Fiera (Milan’s Exhibition Centre) hosts an international tourist trade show.
exhibition for artists’ work.
Stramilano(mid-Apr).
This celebrated marathon is for professionals and amateurs alike and attracts an average of 50,000 competitors every year.
The March Milan-SanRemo race, opening the Italian cycling season Private courtyards in Milan, open
to the public in the spring
The Fashion Week, held in March
APRIL Fiera dei Fiori (Mon after Easter).
In and around Via Moscova, near the Sant’Angelo Franciscan convent, is this fair devoted mainly to flower growing.
Bagutta-Pittori all’Aria Aperta(third week).The famous Via Bagutta plays host to a fascinating outdoor
MAY
Milano Cortili Aperti. The courtyards of the city’s private residences
are open to the public.
Pittori sul Naviglio. Outdoor art display
along the Alzaia Naviglio Grande canal(see p89).
Estate all’Idroscalo. Near Linate airport, the Milan seaplane airport inaugurates its summer season with sports events, water entertainment
and concerts.
Sagra del Carroccio. At Legnano, 30 km (19 miles) from Milan, there is a com- memoration of the battle of 1176, when the Lombard League defeated Emperor Frederick Barba-rossa:
parades in costume and folk festivities and events.
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Fotoshow. An interesting video, photography and optics show in the Fiera (Exhibition Centre) pavilions.
Orticola. Flower growing and garden furnishings show and market in the Porta Venezia public gardens(see p120).
Sagra di San Giovanni. At Monza, a few miles north of Milan, the patron saint’s feast day is celebrated with sports and cultural events, some of which are held at a splendid venue – the park at the Villa Reale.
Sunshine Hours The hours of sunshine in Milan are in line with the Mediterranean average. However, in autumn and winter the weather can be very foggy, which is a typical feature of the climate in the Po river valley, exacerbated by city pollution. The lakes, surrounded by the Alps, are more shaded in the morning and evening.
AV A
A ERAGE D
The Festa del Naviglio, marking the beginning of summer events 10
8 6 4 2 0 Hours
F
Jan Nov Dec
Parco Sempione, a major venue for summer entertainment
SUMMER
June is one of the most pleasant months to visit Milan because the climate is mild and the programme of cultural and sports events is truly packed. In July the torrid, muggy summer heat (the temperature may be as high as 40° C/104° F), together with the heavy traffic, can make sightseeing quite uncomfortable.
In August, most of the factories and offices close for the summer holidays and the empty city is an unusual and, in some respects, quite pleasant sight. The same streets that were crowded a week earlier are now quiet, even restful.
Despite the exodus, many events, both cultural and recreational, are held in Milan during the summer.
This is the busiest season for visiting the lakes of Northern Italy, but also the sunniest. Even at the peak of the summer heat, the water can have a cooling effect.
JUNE
Festa del Naviglio(first Sun).
You can find everything under the sun at this festival, held in the atmospheric setting of the illuminated Navigli canals: street artists and performers, concerts, sports, an antiques market, handicrafts, regional cooking.
Milano d’Estate(Jun-Aug).
This marks the beginning of summer entertainment in the city (concerts, exhibits, various cultural events), which takes place in the Parco Sempione.
Sagra di San Cristoforo (third Sun).The patron saint of travellers, St Christopher, is celebrated along the Naviglio, in the square facing the church. In the evening decorated barges glide along the canals.
Estate all’Umanitaria. The Humanitarian Association organizes a festival of cinema, dance, music, theatre and cartoons and shows for children.
JULY AND AUGUST Festival Latino-Americano. The Forum di Assago hosts this lively festival of Latin- American music, handicrafts and cuisine.
Arianteo. At the Rotonda di Via Besana(see p100), the Anteo motion-picture theatre organizes a series of outdoor showings, which includes all the most important films featured in Milan’s cinemas and theatres during the year.
I N T R O D U C I N G M I L A N 3 8
AUTUMN
September in Milan really gives you the impression of life beginning anew.
In general, by the last week of August the Milanese have returned from holiday, but it is only in September that things get back into full swing.
As far as the weather is concerned, fog and rain alternate with lovely clear days with that typical
“Lombard sky” which Alessandro Manzoni, in The Betrothed, described as being
“so beautiful when it is beautiful, so blue, so serene”.
SEPTEMBER Premier League Football (soccer).By September the Italian football season is under way (the opening match takes place on the last Sunday in August). The
football season is of great importance to the city, which is home to two of Italy’s top teams, Inter and Milan.
Panoramica di Venezia (early Sep).pp Milan cinemas show
films from the Venice Film Festival while they are
being screened there.Gran Premio di
Monza. Held at one of the top motor racing circuits, the Grand Prix of Italy is often crucial to the outcome of the Formula One competition.
OCTOBER
Fiera Di Chiaravalle(first( Mon). This famous fair is held in the shade of the ciribiciaccola(as the Milanese call the bell tower of the Chiaravalle Cistercian abbey, see pp102–3). The fair features music, dancing and an outdoor art exhibition.
SMAU(first week( kk).
International multimedia show held in the Fiera
A Ferrari in action at Monza
The Fiera, host to both SMAU and fashion shows
Exhibition Centre: IT, from computers for offices to CD- Roms and Virtual Reality.
MODIT-Milanovendemoda (beginning of month). The second major fashion show for leading Italian and international fashion designers. The spring-summer collections in various show- rooms and the Fiera pavilions.
NOVEMBER
Premio Bagutta. Milan’s most important literary prize is awarded.
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS New Year’s Day (1 Jan) Epiphany (6 Jan) Easter Sunday & Monday Liberation Day (25 Apr) Labour Day (1 May) Festa della Repubblica (2 June)
Ferragosto (15 Aug) All Saints’ Day (1 Nov) Sant’Ambrogio (7 Dec) Immaculate Conception (8 Dec)
Christmas(25 Dec) Santo Stefano (26 Dec)
San Siro stadium, packed with fans at the beginning of the season
Rainfall
The average monthly rainfall in the Milan area can vary quite considerably during the year. The wettest season is certainly autumn, when it may rain for several days without a break. In late spring and summer the average rainfall level may increase because of unexpected storms.
AVERAGE A
A MONTHLY RAINFALL
m
Feb
Jan Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 20
16 12 8 4
8 6 4 2 0 Inches
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Temperature Milan is inland and there are big differences in temperature between winter and summer. The winters can be very cold indeed, particularly in December and January, typical of continental Europe, while there may be torrid heat in summer.
The climate is always very humid.
WINTER
Characterized by severe cold (heavy snowfall is not rare), the Milanese winter is
“warmed up” by a rich and fascinating programme of cultural events, major holidays and special occasions. The city becomes especially lively around the feast day of Sant’Ambrogio (St Ambrose), the local patron saint, and then for Christmas, which is preceded by the usual shopping sprees in the city- centre shops. On the cultural side, the theatres of Milan present a high-quality theatre season, headed by the world- famous Piccolo Teatro.
DECEMBER Festa di Sant’Ambrogio (7 Dec).c This is the locals’
favourite holiday, just before Immaculate Conception (8 Dec). Sant’c Ambrogio is celebrated with many events:
the jam-packed Fiera degli Oh bej Oh bej, a street fair featuring antiques as well as a
Christmas decorations in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Typical antiques stalls at the Oh bej Oh bej fair
vast assortment of articles. It is held in the streets around the basilica of Sant’Ambrogio (see pp84–7).
La Scala. The season at the world-famous opera house (see pp52–3)starts on 7 December. The opening night is a major cultural event, and an important occasion in the Milanese social calendar.
Teatro Grassi (ex Piccolo Teatro). Milan’s other famous theatre, founded by Paolo Grassi and world-class director Giorgio Strehler, also inaugurates its programme of plays on 7 December.
JANUARY
Corteo dei Re Magi(6 Jan).
A traditional procession A
with atableau vivanttof the Nativity goes from the Duomo to Sant’Eustorgio.
Fiera di Senigallia(every Sat all year long).gg Along the Darsena is a colourful market offering ethnic handicrafts, records and bicycles.
Mercato dell’Antiquariato di Brera(third Sat of month, all year). Stalls with antiques,r books, postcards, jewellery.
FEBRUARY Carnevale Ambrosiano. The longest carnival in the world ends on the first Saturday of Lent. Floats and stock Milanese characters, such as Meneghin and Cecca, take part in a parade to Piazza del Duomo, which is filled with children throwing confetti everywhere.
Taking part in the Carnevale Ambrosiano in Piazza del Duomo
AVERAGE A
A MONTHLY TEMPERATURE
25 20 15 10 5 0 C°
J c
80 70 60 50 40 32 F°
milan area by area