A painting of La Scala
Cova, a historic café in the heart of the fashion district (p125)
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Milan’s Hidden Glories (p125) CHOOSING A WALK
The Two Walks
This map shows the location of the two guided walks in relation to the main sightseeing areas of Milan.
KEY Walk route
The main nave of the Sant’Ambrogio basilica (p126) (ISTORIC
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then turn right onto Via Montenapoleone, the heart of the fashion district. Versace, Gucci and Prada all have boutiques here. Continue along the road until you reach Cova
r(see p187), an elegant café famous for its panettone.
Turn left and left again onto Via della Spiga, home to chic Dolce & Gabbana t. Turn left onto Via Gesù and half way down is Museo Bagatti Valsecchi y (see p109), a refined town-house filled with 15th- to 17th- century furnish- ings. At the end of the road AA
T W O G U I D E D W A L K S 1 2 5
A 90-Minute Walk Around Milan’s Hidden Glories
Milan’s beauty is not immediately obvious. With a few exceptions, such as the Duomo and the Galleria, the city’s glories are hidden. This walk takes in stunning Baroque faỗades lost amid bland buildings, and tours the fashion boutiques in the “Golden Rectangle”.
Cova, a Milanese must for an elegant coffee break since 1817r
Belgioiosoq and turn right onto Via Manzoni w(see p108), lined with grand palazzi.
Th h i di t i t The shopping district Admire the magnificent Grand Hotel et de Milan e, where Giuseppe Verdi died in 1901, Around the Duomo
Begin at the jewel-box church of Santa Maria presso San Satiro 1(see p55), which is encased by modern buildings dern buildings making it hard to find (it is down a short allley off Via Torino). A rightt down ViaA Speronari leads to its 10th- century bell towwer. Leave the church, turn left up Via Mazzini into Piazza del Duomo 2
(see pp44–5)annd ascend to the cathedral’s rroof 3(see((
pp46–9) for pannoramic views.
Descend and sttop for a drink at the renownedd Caffè Zucca
4(see p187), wwhich lies near the entrance to tthe Galleria Vittorio Emanueele II5(see p50), an imposinng 19th-century shopping arcadee. Stroll through its glass-roofed aatrium, ensuring good luck by sttomping on the testicles of the mmosaic bull near the centre. Emeerge at Piazza della Scala6, foor the splendid Teatro alla Scalaa opera house
7(see pp52–3))and pay your respects to Verddi in the attached Museoo Teatrale.
Cross the squaare and walk behind Palazzo Marino 8
(see p50) to thee Counter- Reformation chuurch of San Fedele9(see pp50)0. Head northeast along its left flank past the surreal Casa degli Omenoni0(seee p51).
Turn left on Viaa Morone at the 18th-centtury Palazzo
The Theatre Museum, part of the La Scala opera house7
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turn right and right again onto Via Manzoni. Walk through WW Archi di Porta Nuova u(see p109), a medieval gate with Roman funerary reliefs, and head to Giardini Pubblici i
(see p120), a welcome respite from the urban streetscape.
KEY Walk route Pedestrian streets Metro
Q station
TIPS FOR WALKERS Starting point:Santa Maria presso San Satiro, off Via Torino.
Length: 2.8 km (1.7 miles) Getting there:Duomo station.
Best time for walk:Morning.
Stopping-off points:Historic cafés such as Zucca and Cova.
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M I L A N A R E A B Y A R E A 1 2 6
A Two-Hour Walk around Milan’s Historic Past
Milan is a city that tends to keep its history largely buried under a modern, business-oriented veneer.
The following walk seeks out the remnants of Roman, medieval and Renaissance Milan while paying homage to the city’s most famous adopted son, Leonardo da Vinci. The Renaissance master has left a distinctive stamp on the city. Examples of his genius are scattered all around town, from theLast Supper fresco to modelsr of his inventions in the Museo della Scienza e della Tecnica, not to mention the surviving canals that were nals that were once part of a vast and intricate waterway system Leonardo helped plan.
From the Castello Sforzesco to Leonardo’sLast Supper Begin at Milan’s splendid 15th- century castle 1(see pp64–7), which houses archaeological artifacts, paintings by Bellini and Mantegna, and sculptures from the medieval to ones by Michelangelo. From the front gate head towards Largo Cairoli and then turn right into Via San Giovanni sul Muro. At the junction with Via Meravigli turn right into Corso Magenta.
Follow it west, and across from the Rocooco Palazzo Litta
2(see p74)4, you will see the Museo Archeologico3(see p74) – its cloisters preserve a) bit of the city’s Roman-era walls. Keep mmoving west on Corso Magenta to the church of Sannta Maria delle GGrazie
4(see p71), where you wwill find Leonardoo’sLast Supper (see ppp72–3).
(Tickets to seee this fresco shouldd be booked at leaast two weeks in advvance.) Roman and mmedieval Milan Trace your steeps back along Corso Magenta and turn right at Via Carduccci. At the bottom of this street iis the Pusterla di Sant’Ambrogiio5(see p86), a remnant of thhe medieval city gates. Turn riight into Via San Vittore for thee Museo della Scienza e dellla Tecnica6(see p88), which ccontains models of Leonardo’ss inventions built to the master’s sketches.
Double bacck along Via San Vittore to visiit Sant’Ambrogio
7(see pp84––7), a 4th-century basilica with Palaeochristian mosaics, meddieval carvings, and Renaissance frescoes. Headd down Via de’’
Amicis, anglinng left at Piazza Resistenza Partigiana to continue alonng Via GG Mora8. Thiss street curves slightly since it follows the track of the innterred Olona River. In ancient times this stream joinedd with the
Nirone, Seveso and Vetra rivers at Corso di Porta Ticinese. The Vetra used to run south through what is now Piazza della Vetra and the Parco delle Basiliche 9. Head up Via Poi IV and turn left on Corso di Porta Ticinese for
the church of San Lorenzo alle Colonne0(see pp80–1). This magnificent 4th- century church is preceded by a set of free-standing Roman columnsq, probably the portico to a 2nd-century pagan temple, dismantled and moved here when the church was built.
Continue south along Corso di Porta Ticinese and go through the medieval Porta Ticinesew(see p82)2, built as part of the city’s 12th-century walls and modified in the 1860s. Keep
following the road until you
TIPS FOR WALKERS Starting point:Castello Sforzesco.
Length:4.9 km (3 miles).
Getting there:Cairoli metro station.
Best time for walk: Morning.
Stopping-off points:Not far from the Castello Sforzesco is the genteel Marchesi pastry shop(see p178), or you can stop at the Art Nouveau Bar Magenta in Via Carducci (see p178). The walk ends in Milan’s best district for wine bars and eateries.
Leonardo-designed wooden model
The cloistered entrance to the basilica of Sant’Ambrogio7
Santa Maria delle Grazie, home to Leonardo’s famous Last Supper 4
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