Speed: A USB 1.1 controller transfers data at up to 12 mbps, or about four times faster than the speediest parallel port and 100 times quicker than a serial port.. Even old devices run o
Trang 1Copyright © 2002, PC World Communications, Inc All rights reserved The trademark PC World is owned by International Data Group and used under license by PC World
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PC Hardware
> > S P E C I A L B O N U S C O L L E C T I O N < <
Trang 2AGP’s strength is its ability to process texture maps Certain 3D games and a few 3D graphics development tools are currently the only programs that benefit greatly from fast-moving texture maps
To make sure you’re getting the full benefits of AGP 4X, go into your CMOS setup program and make sure your PC is set to run at AGP 4X rather than 2X Load the latest AGP drivers onto your
PC The AGP drivers that come with
Win-dows 9x are limited, and systems using
AMD’s Athlon CPU don’t work well with older drivers Check with the manufac-turer of your PC, motherboard, or chip set—in that order—to find updated driv-ers and installation instructions
Hardware Tips welcomes your tips and ques-tions and pays $50 for published items Kirk Steers is a PC World contributing editor.
tem’s CMOS setup program to see these statistics But we’ve found a handy work-around: Just use Alex van Kaam’s Moth-erboard Monitor freeware utility to keep watch over your PC’s fans, voltages, and temperatures Head to find.pcworld com/16020to download the program AGP 3: WORTH THE UPGRADE?
I REPLACED MY 1X/2X AGP graph-ics card with a 2X/4X AGP adapter, but my graphics performance has not improved Should I have waited for the AGP 8X cards to come out?
Evan Nathan, Dallas
absolutely not.Applications that take full advantage of AGP 8X transfer speeds are at least a year away Other improve-ments to third-generation AGP graphics cards should enhance graphics
perfor-mance, however FIGURE 1 shows the
max-imum transfer rates of the AGP versions
K I R K S T E E R S
HARDWARE TIPS
A Cool Breeze Keeps Your
PC’s Innards From Frying
biggest temperature changes occur when you turn your system on and off, so leave your PC on but use its power-manage-ment functions to keep its innards as cool
as possible when it’s idle When you turn
on your computer in a really cold office, let the system warm up for 15 minutes before saving anything to its hard drive
Listen to your fans:Your PC keeps cool by blowing a constant stream of air through its case The primary air mover in most PCs is the power-supply fan, although some systems have an additional ventila-tion fan built into the case Even in rela-tively clean offices, dust can accumulate
on the fan intakes and seriously obstruct airflow Clean your PC’s fans and fan intakes regularly, especially if you hear a change in the fans’ one-note whir
Most CPUs also have a cooling device—
either a fan or a heat sink (A heat sink is
a metal plate with fins or spikes intended
to dissipate heat.) If your CPU’s fan or heat sink stops functioning properly, a CPU failure won’t be far behind
A heat sink needs a constant flow of air
to remove heat In most PCs, the internal fans provide the required airflow Never leave the case off your system while it’s running Going topless may lower the overall temperature inside your PC, but it also destroys the internal airflow patterns that keep your CPU and other compo-nents from overheating
Mercury rising:Most PCs made in the last few years monitor and report on the state
of their case, CPU, and power-supply fans Some also provide data on the sys-tem’s internal temperature, and some have a temperature alarm built into their BIOS You usually have to open your
sys-154
do the cold,dark days of winter have
you dreaming of tropical beaches, sunny
deserts, and the inside of your PC? You
read right The climate inside your
com-puter can rival that of Death Valley in the
summer, and triple-digit temperatures
are bad news for your hardware
Most desktop PCs run comfortably
when their internal temperature is
be-tween 60 and 110 degrees Fahrenheit
(Check your system documentation to
find your PC’s exact range.) Internal
tem-peratures over 110 degrees can stress
del-icate circuits and electrical contacts,
which may substantially shorten your
computer’s life Hard drives are
especial-ly vulnerable when the temperature goes
up: Data transfers slow down, and data
written to the disk is more likely to be lost
Here’s how to beat the PC heat
Avoid ups and downs:Sudden changes in
temperature are just as harmful to your
PC’s circuitry as high temperatures The
FIGURE 1: FASTER AGP rates speed up tex-ture maps but won’t help most applications.
DOES YOUR CURSOR sometimes appear
and disappear, move in the wrong
direc-tion, or change size and shape? It could
be a sign of mouse trouble, which is
often due to a conflict with your graphics
card’s driver If you use Windows 9x or
Me, there may be a solution simpler than
installing an updated driver Open
Con-trol Panel, double-click the System icon,
choose the Performance tab, and click
the Graphics button Move the slider
next to Hardware Acceleration one notch
to the left This change disables some
graphics capabilities, but it may be the
solution to your rodent problem.
A CONFLICTED MOUSE
Transfer speed (MB/second) AGP SPEED
AGP 1X AGP 2X AGP 4X AGP 8X
266 533 1066 2133
AGP DATA TRANSFER RATES
Trang 3K I R K S T E E R S
HARDWARE TIPS
For Fast, Easy Computing,
USB Is the Bus to Ride
CONNECT DEVICES
WITH A USB HUB
A UTILITY FOR CACHE MANAGEMENT
AN OLD AGP CARD
IN A NEW AGP SLOT
ial or parallel port often requires a com-plicated configuration USB avoids the hassles of setting and juggling IRQs and other resources One IRQ covers all the hardware attached to each
USB port USB peripherals have fewer compatibility problems than peripherals using serial or parallel ports
Speed: A USB 1.1 controller transfers data at up to 12 mbps, or about four times faster than the speediest parallel port and 100 times quicker than a serial port
While that won’t affect the performance of a mouse or joystick, it makes a big dif-ference with printers, scan-ners, and other data-hungry peripherals
Portability: All USB devices can be hot-swapped, which means that you can plug
a piece of hardware into your PC, or un-plug one, while your system is running
The operating system will automatically recognize and configure new USB devices
Support for old hardware:There once was a lack of USB peripherals, but now almost every I/O device comes in a USB version
Even old devices run off USB by using an adapter that converts parallel, serial, and other devices to USB Belkin and SIIG are two vendors that offer such adapters
One port, many devices:With the use of a USB controller, a single USB port can theoretically support up to 127 different devices, although practically speaking, it’s unlikely you’ll ever run more than ten
154
l o t s o f t h i n g s get better with time:
friendship, a fine cabernet, and yes, even
PCs Every day we’re bombarded by
ad-vertisements hawking systems that are
faster and cheaper—so much so that it’s
easy to lose sight of really useful
improve-ments, like the Universal Serial Bus
USB is the way to connect anything to
your PC It’s fast, simple, and so much
better than parallel and serial ports that
they look downright medieval by
compar-ison (Not to say that leeches and a good
suit of armor don’t come in handy every
now and then But, hey, enough about my
personal life.) Judging from all the e-mail
I get about problems with parallel and
serial ports, a surprising number of you
still aren’t aware of just how great USB is
And with USB 2.0, the spec gains even
more advantages Here’s a rundown on
why you should be riding with USB
Ease of use:USB just works better
Peri-od Getting hardware to function on a
ser-peripherals at one time All the devices connected to a USB 1.1 controller have to share its 12-mbps bandwidth If you need
to run multiple devices that eat up more than 12 mbps, you can use a PCI adapter card to add a USB controller to your PC
Belkin sells a USB 1.1 PCI adapter card for $39 and a USB 2.0 version for $59
Easy linking:If you’ve ever tried to chain together two devices—such as a printer and a Zip drive—you know it can be a real nightmare USB allows any device to be connected to any other USB device that has a built-in hub So you’ll never have to crawl under your desk to reach the back
of your PC when attaching a peripheral
Some keyboards and monitors have built-in hubs with one or two USB ports
If you don’t already have one of these, consider buying a dedicated USB hub
that sits on your desktop Dedicated hubs have clusters of two, four, or more ports
Belkin’s four-port USB 2.0 hub, for
exam-ple, costs as little as $52 online (see
FIG-URE 1) If your hub connects lots of USB devices to your PC, make sure you have adequate power to run them all Printers and many similar devices have their own power connections, but mice, keyboards, modems, and others get their power from the USB connection If the devices need more power than the USB port can
deliv-er, the entire bus may shut down When this happens, Windows displays a warn-ing icon next to the Universal Serial Bus Controller entry in Device Manager For-tunately, you can avoid power problems
by using the right type of USB hub
Bus-powered USB hubs draw
electrici-H E R E ’ S electrici-H O W
FIGURE 1: EASILY ADD AND REMOVE USB hardware by installing a USB hub such as Belkin’s four-port device.
WHEN YOUR PC uses the same chunk of
data over and over, it often stores that
piece of information in fast memory, or
cache, where it can retrieve the data
faster than it can off a hard drive
Stor-ing the right amount of data in the cache
can improve your PC’s performance.
Outer Technologies’ $10 Cacheman is an
excellent shareware utility that lets you
conveniently monitor memory use and
control your cache settings Go to find.
pcworld.com/17641 to get the download.
SPEND YOUR CACHE WISELY
If you buy a self-powered hub, make sure it provides a full 500 mA to each port—some don’t To check, divide the hub’s total amperage rating (found in its documentation or on the power supply)
by the number of ports For example, a four-port hub should provide at least 500
mA per port, or 2 amps total
If your PC originally shipped with Windows 98 or later, it almost certainly has a set of working USB ports Look on
the back of your PC for two narrow, rec-tangular openings If you have an older system without USB, an adapter card should get you up and running (Using USB on systems running Windows 95 is,
at best, problematic If that’s what you’re using, consider an OS upgrade.) Many PC peripherals now support the USB 2.0 specification USB 2.0 devices can run more than 40 times faster than those using USB 1.1 The top USB 2.0 data rate is 480 mbps, which is faster than the IEEE 1394 (FireWire) ports that run hard drives, digital still and video
cam-eras, and CD-RW drives (see FIGURE 2).
USB 2.0 products are backward com-patible, so you can use older USB devices
on a USB 2.0–equipped PC So what’s the catch? USB 2.0 products are a bit more expensive Also, the selection of USB 2.0 devices is limited at present, and they re-quire a USB 2.0-ready PC to run them Look for the first USB 2.0–ready moth-erboards and systems to hit the
mar-ty from the incoming USB connector and output up to 100 mA per port (that’s milli-amps, a measure of electrical current)
Self-powered hubs draw their own power
or, in the case of the root hub in your PC, get it from the PC They provide up to 500
mA per port Keyboards, mice, and other low-power USB devices use 25 mA to 40
mA and run well on a 100-mA port of a bus-powered hub More-demanding de-vices need to use a self-powered hub
FIGURE 2: USB 2.0 HARDWARE MOVES DATA slightly faster than devices using an IEEE 1394 (FireWire) connection, but it can be more than 40 times faster than USB 1.1 devices.
Maximum data rate (mbps)
Comments SPECIFICATION
USB 1.1 USB 2.0 IEEE 1394 (FireWire)
12
480
400
Supports low-speed (up to 1.5 mbps) peripherals such as mice and keyboards, as well as printers, scanners, and other medium-speed devices.
Also called High-Speed USB, the new standard is fast enough to support external hard drives, CD-RW drives, and other high-speed peripherals.
Popular spec for digital video cameras; will allow direct connection of IEEE 1394 devices (such as a DVD player to a TV) without the signal having to pass through a PC.
USB VS FIREWIRE DATA RATES
Trang 4ket sometime this spring You can add
USB 2.0 functionality to your system now
by using one of the adapters mentioned
above But before buying a USB 2.0
prod-uct, check with the vendor to confirm the
availability of USB drivers for your
oper-ating system As I write this, USB drivers
for Windows XP are still unavailable, and
drivers for Windows 98 and Me aren’t
always included with USB products
ANY AGP PORT IN A STORM?
MY BROTHER JUST gave me his
old Pentium III PC minus a graphics
card I opened up its case to add
the AGP 2X graphics card I took from my
for-mer computer, but the AGP slot in the P-III
PC is much longer than the slot in my old
system Can I safely add my old graphics card
to the newer computer’s AGP slot?
Peter Miller, Topeka, Kansas
you probably can, but before adding
an old AGP card to a new motherboard,
make sure the two are compatible
There are three different types of AGP slots: the original AGP 1.0 1X/2X slot, the AGP 2.0 2X/4X slot, and the AGP Pro slot The 1X/2X version is the shortest and can be distinguished from the 4X type by a small separator that divides it into two sections The 4X slot also has extra pins at one end
From your description, your PC proba-bly has an AGP Pro slot These slots have
an extension added to the end of the 4X slot without the extra pins While the AGP Pro slots are designed for top-end graphics cards costing over $1000, they are also found frequently on mother-boards used in mainstream PCs
Because the AGP Pro slot is backward compatible, a 1X/2X or 2X/4X AGP card will work in the slot But take care when inserting a 1X/2X card to avoid
incorrect-ly inserting it into the AGP Pro extension
Often these extensions come with a cover
to prevent this, but the covers can fall off
Also make sure your graphics card and
motherboard support the same operating voltages The original AGP 1.0 spec called for motherboards and cards that operate
at 3.3V, and the AGP 2.0 spec added sup-port for operation at 1.5V If your old graphics card operates at 3.3V, you’ll need
a motherboard that supports 3.3V AGP Likewise, a card that runs at 1.5V needs a corresponding AGP slot
Fortunately, many motherboards come with ‘universal’ AGP slots that support either voltage, and many of the latest graphics cards support both voltages as well Not all setups do, however A few motherboards out there run exclusively at 1.5V and won’t support the older 3.3V cards Check with your motherboard and graphics card vendors to determine your hardware’s precise requirements
Kirk Steers is a PC World contributing editor Reach him at kirk_steers@pcworld.com Hardware Tips welcomes your tips and ques-tions and pays $50 for published items.
Trang 5
K I R K S T E E R S
HARDWARE TIPS
Will a New CPU Give
Your PC More Vroom?
THE INS AND OUTS
OF CPU UPGRADES
MATCH UP YOUR MOTHERBOARD
FASTER WRITING TO REMOVABLE DISKS
That’s because other components play
a big role in determining your system’s overall performance For example, dwin-dling hard disk space or too little RAM can slow down a system that’s trying to process big spreadsheets or databases
And adding a topflight graphics card to your PC can dramatically improve the look and play of many games
But if you’re on a tight budget and you need a moderate, across-the-board perfor-mance boost, adding a new CPU can be worthwhile Our rule of thumb: If you’re staying in the same processor class, buy a CPU upgrade only if it will at least double your current clock speed—from 400 MHz
to 800 MHz, for example Better yet, move up an entire CPU class, such as from a Celeron chip to a full-fledged Pen-tium II or PenPen-tium III
If you have an older system, keep in mind that powerful new PCs are cheaper than ever If a CPU upgrade costs more than $300, you may be better off spend-ing a little more for a new PC
Here’s what you need to know about your PC before you buy a new CPU:
What’s your old CPU’s name?Use Intel’s Processor Frequency ID Utility to identify the company’s CPUs Go to find.pcworld
com/11880to download the program
What’s your PC’s chip set? The chip set your motherboard uses determines what types of CPU, RAM, hard drive, and other hardware will work with your PC To dis-cover what chip set your PC uses, look in your system’s manual or download and run a hardware diagnostic program such
198
i f y o u t h i n k you can feed your need
for PC speed without investing in a whole
new system, simply by replacing your old
CPU with a newer and faster one, you’re
right—probably A CPU upgrade can be
a cost-effective way to boost PC
perfor-mance, but it’s not for everyone Any
prospective upgrader should ask two
questions: How much performance will a
new processor add to my PC? And is the
bounce worth the cost?
You can find a CPU upgrade for almost
any PC—from systems based on Intel’s
ancient 80486 chip through today’s
Pen-tium III models But don’t expect
mir-acles from a new CPU if its clock speed is
only slightly higher than that of your
cur-rent CPU A new processor running at
twice the clock speed you’re used to won’t
come close to doubling your system’s
formance A 10 to 20 percent jump in
per-formance is more realistic
as the HWInfo shareware package Visit
find.pcworld.com/11881to get it
Does it use a socket or a slot?The type of CPU connector your motherboard uses determines which CPUs can connect to your system FIGURE 1lists information to help you determine what your PC uses
What about your frontside bus and multi-pliers?The frontside bus (or FSB) is the path between your RAM and CPU It runs at a particular frequency: 66, 100, or
133 MHz The motherboard multiplies that frequency to drive the CPU For ex-ample, a Pentium II-233 CPU typically runs on a motherboard with a 66-MHz FSB and a multiplier of 3.5 The same sys-tem can run a Pentium II-266 CPU if you change the multiplier from 3.5 to 4 But running a Pentium II-400 CPU on that system would be a waste: With an FSB of
66 MHz and a top multiplier of 4, the old machine can run no faster than 266 MHz
What is the voltage?If you’re adding a standard CPU rather than an upgrade processor, make sure your motherboard’s CPU voltage matches the voltage needs of your new CPU Some motherboards sup-port multiple CPU voltage settings, but many older boards don’t Check your manual to be sure of what you need
Kirk Steers is a PC World contributing editor Hardware Tips welcomes your tips and ques-tions and pays $50 for published items.
H E R E ’ S H O W
FIGURE 1: KNOW YOUR motherboard attach-ment type before you buy a CPU upgrade.
IF YOU FREQUENTLY use a removable
storage drive—such as an Iomega Zip or
Jaz drive—you can speed up data writing
to the drive by enabling write-behind
caching This arrangement allows
Win-dows to temporarily store data destined
for the disk in RAM and then write it to
the disk when no other tasks are being
performed To enable this option, launch
Control Panel’s System applet, select
Performance•File System•Removable
Disk, and check the Enable write-behind
caching on all removable disk drives box.
MORE ZIP FOR YOUR ZIP
Motherboard attachment CPU
Pentium (75 to 133 MHz) Pentium (133 to 200 MHz) Pentium MMX Pentium Pro Pentium II Pentium III Celeron (300 to 433 MHz) Celeron (466 MHz or faster) K5
K6, K6-2, K6-III Athlon Athlon (Thunderbird) Duron
Socket 5 or 7 Socket 7 Socket 7 Socket 8 Slot 1 Slot 1 or Socket 370 Slot 1 or Socket 370 Socket 370 (PPGA or FC-PGA) Socket 5 or 7
Socket 7 or Super 7 Slot A Socket A Socket A
WHAT’S YOUR SOCKET?
Trang 6
grounded outlet
Always remove all traces of the old device before you install the new one Here’s what to do:
1.Use the Add/Remove Programs applet
in Control Panel to remove all of the soft-ware associated with the device
2 Remove the device’s driver.
Click Start•Settings•Control Panel•
System, choose the Device
Manag-er tab, double-click the device’s
category, select the device you’re
uninstalling, and click the Remove
button Note: To remove the driver
of a graphics card (Windows calls
it a “display adapter”), first double-click the device name, choose the
Driver tab in its Properties box,
and select the Update Driver
but-ton; then use the Update Device Driver Wizard to install Windows’
generic VGA driver (see FIGURE 1)
3 Shut down your PC.
4 Open your system’s case, and remove
the old device If you’re upgrading your graphics card, put the new one in now
5 Restart the PC and check Device
Man-ager If the old device’s entry is still there, repeat the uninstall Sometimes
you have to “remove” a device more than once before there are
no traces of it left in Windows
Install new devices one at a time, and use your PC for a few days between each installation to give problems time to reveal themselves Some things to re-member as you install:
1 Plug and Play isn’t always the
best method for installing a device Some drivers have their own installation programs that are best run independently of
e v e r y t i m e y o u crack open your PC’s
case to add or remove hardware, you’re
rolling the dice Maybe you’ll slip that new
modem or ethernet card into its slot and
watch Windows seamlessly install its
driv-ers Yeah, and maybe your Internet stocks
will return to triple-digit share values,
too—but I sure wouldn’t count on it
Even with such technologies as Plug
and Play, hardware
can still be quite
tricky to install
Mistakes or
prob-lems can lead to
hours of
trouble-shooting, or even
to an unusable PC
These installation
guidelines should
help keep your
system running
First, create a
backup Windows
98 automatically
backs up its Registry
files every day By default it stores the last
five backups in the Windows\Sysbckup
folder as cab files named rbxxx.cab,
where xxx is the number of the backup—
001, 002, or whatever Copy the most
re-cent cab file, and give it a different name
so it won’t be overwritten by a corrupted
copy If you need to restore a backup file,
restart your system in DOS mode and run
regscan.exe—running it from a DOS
ses-sion in Windows won’t work
Windows Me’s System Restore utility
automates system backups Click Start•
Programs•Accessories•System Tools•System
Restore to reload a system configuration
that Windows saved previously
Last, make sure that you’re electrically
grounded Even a small static charge on
your body can damage your PC’s delicate
circuitry Touch the system’s metal
chas-sis just before you unplug it from its
Windows’ own installation routines
2 If the installation instructions are
unclear or refer to a different model num-ber, go to the manufacturer’s Web site and look for updated documentation
3 Get the latest driver update The drivers
on the floppy or CD-ROM that came with the device may be out-of-date Check the vendor’s Web site for newer versions
4 Don’t interrupt a driver installation.
Stopping in midprocess can cause all kinds of trouble If you want to abort an installation, finish the procedure com-pletely, and then uninstall the driver
5 Secure cards to the case with their
fas-tening screws Unfastened cards can work their way out of their slots over time
For additional hardware tips, visit www.pcworld.com/heres_ how Send your tips and ques-tions to kirk_steers@pcworld.com We pay
$50 for published items Kirk Steers is a
PC World contributing editor.
Reserve a Cab
ABOUT THE ONLY time you need your Win-dows CD-ROM once your PC is running is when you install hardware If you can’t find the disc, or if you can’t get your CD-ROM drive to work, you could be stuck To play it safe, make a folder on your hard disk, name
it CABS, and copy Windows’ cab files (the compressed versions of Windows operating system files) to it Just copy the ‘win98’ and
‘drivers’ folders from the Windows CD They occupy about 275MB, but it’s space well used, even if you only need the files once.
Your PC’s Case:
Enter With Caution
FIGURE 1: BEFORE INSTALLING A NEW graphics card, replace the old driver with Windows’ Standard VGA driver.