IT training the expat TruePDF february 2019

EVENTS • NEWS • COLUMNS 6 Upcoming Events 7 Clubs and Associations 8 MM2H Update 9 Expat News 11 Almost Home by Chad Merchant 12 TEG Media KL WINE DINNER 14 TEG Media KL MINGLE 16 Johor

Asia’s share of the world’s gross domestic product was around 15% in the 1970s when Ifirst came to Asia, but has now doubled to over 30% While many countries in Asiahave enjoyed strong economic growth, China, and to a lesser extent India, have beenthe two powerhouses which have driven this major increase When I first came to Asia

in 1970, Japan was the big regional player but things have changed a lot in the interim.When China opened up its markets in the late ’70s, they were able to achieveexceptionally strong annual economic growth, which has brought their economycloser to the size of that of the United States, and it is predicted to pass them withinthe next decade China has seen tens of millions of its citizens lifted out of povertyinto the rapidly growing middle class, and a sizable group of very wealthy people hasbeen created, too

Their large and increasingly affluent population has attracted a lot of foreigninvestment, which has helped fuel economic growth The government has alsoinvested a lot of money in the domestic economy, including in its infrastructure Bycontrast, the United States struggles to maintain and modernize its infrastructure withthe related negative impact on its own economy

China is now playing a much larger role in the international stage They have laid claim

to most of the South China Sea, despite protests from various Asian countries and theUnited States They have occupied and developed various uninhabited islands withintheir so called ‘nine dash line’ and turned them into military bases Despite all theopposition, no country has been able to stop them and their sovereignty seems

increasingly close to becoming a fait accompli.

Their ambitious “One Belt One Road” plan has many billions of dollars invested inoverseas ports, roads, rail and telecommunications projects aimed at creating strongtrading links to Europe and Africa both by land and sea Their declared intention is todevelop “effective regional connectivity” Others see it as a push for global economicdomination In recent years, China has invested heavily in many African counties inorder to tap into their abundance of raw materials Several African nations are nowfacing similar problems to Sri Lanka as they struggle to pay back the debts they haveincurred with China Sri Lanka was the first to fail and were forced to lease back theport that China built, for 99 years, to clear its debt

It is worth noting that while the United States has spent many billions of dollars indefence (and on wars), not to mention the loss of trillions of dollars from the poorlymanaged 2007/8 financial crisis; China has avoided these costs, leaving it more fundsfor more productive investments So far, China has stayed away from costly overseasmilitary campaigns They insist they are committed to peaceful coexistence, but theyare undertaking a major modernization of their military, and in 2017, they set up theirfirst overseas military base in Djibouti, although they call it a ‘supply base’

Closer to home, Mahathir has clearly expressed his concerns abouttoo much dependence on China’s investments in Malay sequally forceful with his comments about not allowing l enumbers of Chinese to settle in the massive Forest Citydevelopment in Johor which has been heavily marketed omainland Chinese

It remains to be seen exactly what China’s long range plare, but there is no question that their growing economand military strength will have a major impact on Asiaand the rest of the world in the years ahead

Happy Chinese New Year for thosewho celebrate it – enjoy the holidays

ncerns aboutysia He was

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plansmic

Emily Tang, Olivia Yap,

Sisi Davison, Naomi Bessant

Finance / Admin – Senior Manager

Khoo Poh Lian

7th Floor, Tower Block

Syed Kechik Foundation Building

Jalan Kapas, Bangsar,

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily the views of Borneo Vision Sdn Bhd The publisher shall not be held liable for any omission, error, or inaccuracy No parts of this publication may

be reproduced in any form without the publisher’s permission.

EVENTS • NEWS • COLUMNS

6 Upcoming Events

7 Clubs and Associations

8 MM2H Update

9 Expat News

11 Almost Home by Chad Merchant

12 TEG Media KL WINE DINNER

14 TEG Media KL MINGLE

16 Johor Young Photographer’s Contest

66 TEG Media PENANG MINGLE

FEATURES • FOCUS: Cities of Peninsular Malaysia

18 Expat Extracts

20 Genting Highlands and the Man with the

Midas Touch

22 Ipoh Finds Its Feet

26 Cherating: Malaysia’s East Coast Escape

52 Art: All that Glitters Is Not Just Gold It’s

Also Art

54 Books: How to Save a Country

55 Health: Four Ways to Help an Anxious

Person Calm Down

56 Malaysia’s Endangered Elephants

EXPAT EXCURSIONS

29 Introduction

30 Melaka: A Spice-Infused Heritage

34 Melaka’s Cultural Medley

38 Books: Borneo, A Blue Skies Travel Guide

39 An Organic Retreat at The Chateau,

Berjaya Hills

40 Thai Islands: A Karst of Thousands

46 Ahead of the Sun

50 Airline and Travel News

64 Penang Promenade: Workshops to

Check Out in Penang

EDUCATION

60 School Snaps

63 Sunway Education: University-Industry

Collaboration in Hospitality Education

EXPAT INFORMATION

69 Introduction

71 Dining Promos & Restaurant Reviews

76 Services and Shopping

46

26

56

64

TO READ ONLINE OR GET YOUR

FREE COPY OF THE EXPAT

DELIVERED EVERY MONTH,

VISIT EXPATGO.COM CALL 03.2094 9664 OR

FILL IN THE FORM ON PAGE 67.

In the December 2018 issue, due to a

confluence of mix-ups and various

problems which occurred at the

production stage, we inadvertently ran

two versions of the same article in the

issue This error is very much regretted

9-10th Feb

Penang Hot Air Balloon Fiesta

2019

Coming back for its fourth annual run,

the fiesta is once again ready to

welcome over 100,000 visitors from

all over the world to the island of

Penang Around 15 professional

ballooners will be performing and

giving rides, offering majestic views

and an unforgettable experience The

event will also host ‘night glow’ shows;

and you just might have the

experience to walk inside the

humongous balloon itself during their

special ‘cold-inflation’ sessions!

14th-20th Feb

The Handlebards’ Twelfth Night

Presenting Shakespeare’s hilarious

comedy like you’ve never seen before,

the Handlebards production of Twelfth

Night is not one to miss! As the world’s

only cycling theatre company,

incredible energy, whirlwind physical

theatre, clever improve, and

eye-popping costumes will make even

those not keen on studying

Shakespeare love this interpretation

Tickets to the show at PJ Live Arts are

available on their Facebook event

page

23rd Feb

KL Highland Games 2019

Enjoy some Scottish revelry right in

the heart of Kuala Lumpur! With

traditional highlander events such as

caber tossing, shot putt, and the more

modern junior rugby tournament; have

a fun day out with the whole family at

Bukit Kiara Equestrian & Country

Resort Listen and dance to live music

and enjoy marching band

competitions from 8AM to 8PM This

event is kid-friendly

23rd Feb

Night Walk in FRIM Forest

Explore the majestic rainforest at night,

when all sorts of nocturnal creatures

stir The Night Walk Programme is

designed to educate people of all ages

on biodiversity and the behavioralhabits of the rainforest, and will foster

a greater sense of appreciation towardsMother Nature Check out theirFacebook page for tickets

23rd & 24th Feb BLACKPINK Live in Malaysia 2019

Korea’s latest sensational all-girl group,BLACKPINK will be performing at theMalawati Indoor Stadium, Shah Alam

as part of their In Your Area WorldTour! Due to high demand, the K-popgroup has also added another show totheir Malaysian leg, bringing theirfamous hits like DDU-DU DDU-DUand Boombayah to local fans Ticketsare available at macpiepro.com

artists and handicraft masters Inconjunction with National Craft Monththat has been observed every Marchsince 1994, the Ministry of Tourism hashailed the event annually in honor ofthose who have dedicated their time

to keep the many unique cultures andheritage of Malaysia alive through theirart

28th Feb - 4 Mar Pasir Gudang World Kite Festival

The skies of Johor will once again bedecorated with hundreds of kites fromall cultures, including Malaysia’s veryown wau kites; crescent-shaped kitesmade of crepe paper and bamboosticks Visitors will be treated to akite-making workshop, giving a chance

to participate in the flyingcompetitions!

28th Feb - 10 Mar National Craft Day 2019

Head on down to the humbleKompleks Kraf Kuala Lumpur (KL’s CraftComplex) to support Malaysia’s local

Whole month Perak Museum 1883-2018 135th Anniversary Celebration

Featuring over 3,000 exhibits and10,000 artifacts of early SoutheastAsia, the first museum of Malaysiaturns a 135 years old! From the ancientwildlife that roamed the jungles ofMalaya, to the skulls and instruments

of the tin mining revolution, learn allabout Malaysia in one comprehensivetour

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AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF

MALAYSIA

Bingo

Date: Every First Tuesday

Time: 10am – 11am

Venue: St Xavier’s Home for the Elderly

Cost: NA

RSVP: eventsdirector.aam@gmail.com

This charitable morning brings fun and

joy to the residents of “the Little

Sisters of the Poor” with the game of

Bingo! We always have a need for

small gifts as bingo prizes as well as

donations of men’s and women’s

clothing

Coffee Crew

Date: Every First Wednesday

Time: 10am - 11:30am

Venue: illy café, Level 1, Suria KLCC

Cost: Individual

RSVP: eventsdirector.aam@gmail.com

Arriving in KL can be overwhelming at

first, but the AAM is here to help This

informal social group is designed to

help expats newly arrived in KL Coffee

and friends make the perfect blend!

The Happy Hour(s) Gang

Date: Every Second Friday

A fun group who are always on the

lookout for the best Happy Hours in

town! Stop by and say hello the

second Friday of every month

Wine & Dine

Date: Every third Saturday

We will explore a new dining

experience on the third Saturday of

each month Sometimes with fine

wines, sometimes not-so-fine wines,

and sometimes no wine at all! But we

will always have a great time!

ASSOCIATION OF BRITISH WOMEN

Join James Phua’s art classes everyThursday and unleash the creativitywithin, as well as get the chance tomeet like-minded people

Learn French Date: Negotiable Time: Dependable Venue: At your choice of venue Cost: NA

Venue: Manza House Cost: NA RSVP: Contact Manza House at

+603-2284 7145MANZA provides information for newmembers about life in Malaysia and

KL Come along and meet othermembers including newcomers and

‘long termers’

Manza Quilter Group Date: Every Monday Time: 10am - 12pm Venue: MANZA house (1st and 2nd

Monday) member house rota (otherMondays)

Cost: Free for members, RM10 for

-¿ *>¿³ƒU‰°¶ -”Uƒg¿Ï ”t -gŠ>y”³

The Malaysia My Second Home (MM2H) programme

has proven to be a popular initiative by the

Malaysian government Launched in 2002, the

programme has attracted people from all over the

world with China, Japan, Bangladesh, and the UK topping the

list of nations whose citizens have been approved under the

programme Altogether, some 35,000 applications have

been approved in the 15 years or so since it started

The government has not promoted the programme all that

heavily, so people often hear about it through word of

mouth It is primarily aimed at people who want to retire to

Malaysia, as employment in the country is not encouraged

under the programme, although it is possible to work for a

local company for up to 20 hours a week with approval

Applicants must show a monthly income in excess of

RM10,000 (equivalent in foreign currency) and show liquid

assets in excess of RM350,000 (RM500,000 if aged under

50) Upon approval, visa holders must place a fixed deposit

in a local bank of RM150,000 (RM300,000 if under 50)

Many people are attracted by the low cost of living, warm

weather, friendly people, great food, and the fact the

Malaysian government does not tax overseas income Upon

approval, MM2H applicants receive a 10-year visa which is

renewable

It should be noted that there is no requirement to buyproperty in Malaysia or indeed even to relocate here In fact,some applicants from troubled countries only apply so theyhave a place to relocate should they feel problems in theirown country are getting worse

The most popular places MM2H visa holders choose to liveare Penang and Kuala Lumpur Other places which haveattracted visa holders are Ipoh, Melaka, Sabah, and Johor

MALAYSIA WILL HAVE A NEW KING

Malaysia has a unique system of

monarchy, courtesy of the departing

British, whereby the position of king

(Yang di-Pertuan Agong) changes every

five years It rotates among the various

nine Sultans in a prescribed order The

position is largely ceremonial, though

the king does have some limited

powers of note

The Sultan of Kelantan became king in

2016, by all intents for the usual

five-year period However, he took a

leave of absence at the end of last year,

supposedly to recover after hospital

treatment What was widely reported in

the international press, though, was that

he married a young Russian woman

In January, he announced that he was

stepping down from the positon, the

first king not to complete his assigned

five-year period There was speculation

as to the reasons, but the authorities

took a very serious view of people

making comments or assumptions

about the king’s resignation, media

reports were blocked or ordered

removed, and several people were

investigated because of their social

media postings Clearly, free speech

has its limits in Malaysia

The Pahang royalty are next in line for

the throne, but the Sultan of Pahang is

apparently quite frail, so he has

abdicated in favour of his son, who is

expected to be installed as the new

King of Malaysia

VISIT MALAYSIA YEAR 2020

Given the many natural and

man-made attractions of Malaysia

combined with the weak ringgit,

tourists should be pouring into the

country in ever-increasing numbers,

but it’s not happening Tourist arrivals

to Malaysia in recent years have in fact

slowed after years of strong growth

Largely because of the many visits to

Malaysia by Singaporeans (who

account for nearly half of all foreign

tourist arrivals), the country enjoys high

tourist numbers and was once in thetop 10 most-visited countries in theworld Tourist arrivals in 2010 werearound 24.6 million, but seven yearslater in 2017 they had only grown to25.9 million By contrast, Thailand, acountry routinely beset by naturaldisasters and political strife, grew theirtourist arrivals from 15.9 million in

2010 to a staggering 35.4 million in

2017 The problem here is even morepronounced now because there hasbeen a surge in the number ofavailable hotel rooms (now over292,000 nationwide) Malaysianhotels ran about a 60% averageoccupancy rate in 2017

Many people blame the lack of fundingfor the tourism ministry for the slowgrowth Indeed, 2020 has beendesignated Visit Malaysia Year, but itseems the government is not willing toput much money behind it The 2019budget speech made no mention ofany special allocation to the TourismMinistry, and our company (TEGMedia) has received no advertisingbookings to help us promote it Severalyears ago, we always received supportfrom Tourism Malaysia, which enabled

us to actively promote Malaysia

While there may well be other reasons,

it does seem Malaysia is suffering from

a lack of marketing funds GivenMalaysia’s economic challenges, it issurprising the government is notmaking a bigger effort to grow tourismand the billions of dollars that touristsbring with them For example, tourists

to Thailand spent in excess of US$50billion in 2017 This compares withMalaysia, which reported tourismreceipts at just US$20 billion, 45% ofwhich came from Singaporeans Thelower average spend is probablyattributable to the lower hotel costs inMalaysia, as well as shorter visits by themany Singaporean visitors

As a result of all this, Tourism Malaysiahas reduced their original projections

of 36 million arrivals during Visit

Malaysia Year 2020 down to just 26.4million Ironically, Thailand seems to

be confident of reaching or exceeding

36 million arrivals in 2020

This is all rather sad when Malaysia hassome good news to spread and thereare many reasons for tourists to comehere, not least value for money –always a compelling selling point

CORRUPTION IN MALAYSIA

A survey TEG Media conducted amongexpats in 2013 revealed that expats atthat time felt corruption was at itsworst in the government They alsofelt it was getting worse, not better,despite the apparent attempts to fight

it more aggressively Subsequentevents seem to support that view Thelast few years have seen an

unprecedented number of seniorfigures arrested for corrupt practices

Ironically, members of the previousgovernment which initiated thiscrackdown on more senior corporateand government employees are nowbeing rounded up themselves for thesame sort of offences

It seems evident that at the veryhighest levels, corruption was acceptedand appears to have almost been acommon practice It is hard to believethat there was not widespreadknowledge of these corrupt practicesamong the country’s former leaders,although many now claim ignorance

The anti-corruption bodies in HongKong and Singapore have been highlyeffective in reducing the level ofcorruption in those two counties Itseems that Malaysia should try harder

to identify why they have been somuch less successful at reducingcorruption here There does not seem

to be any current campaign explaining

to Malaysians the high cost to society

of corruption and why they should bediligent in both resisting it andreporting any cases they observe

In his iconic, seminal 1963 speech,

delivered at the National Mall

during the March on Washington,

Dr Martin Luther King said a great

many things about the state of things

in the United States at that time But

as his stirring speech approached its

climax, he delivered the phrases that

have been etched into the nation’s

collective memory “I have a dream,”

he said, “that one day this nation will

rise up, live out the true meaning of its

creed: ‘We hold these truths to be

self-evident, that all men are created

equal.” He went on, the oratory

reaching a sermon-like crescendo: “I

have a dream that my four little

children will one day live in a nation

where they are judged not by the

colour of their skin, but by the content

of their character.”

That’s the part that always sticks with

me So much of the speech was about

very specific race relations between

black and white Americans, which was

of course what drove the March on

Washington in the first place But this

part was so universal, applicable in any

society Judged not by the colour of their

skin, but by the content of their

character.

Fast-forward three or so decades to a

very different setting, and to a searing

speech delivered by a president Not a

real president, mind you – but a

fictional one, portrayed by Michael

Douglas in the 1995 film The American

President In a response to a fusillade of

attacks on him by his political

opponent, President Andrew Shepherd

remarks that it has been suggested

that “being president of this country is,

to a certain extent, about character.”

He then goes on to say, “I have been

[in this office] three years and three

days, and I can tell you without

hesitation: Being president of this

country is entirely about character.”

Wise words, indeed A poll taken in

2016 by the Pew Research Centre

sort of docile social network is acomplete illusion The company andits senior executives appear to bebereft of character They will sell out

their users in a heartbeat because that

is their business model Your personaldata is their only product

Frankly, given the parade of databreaches, blatant sharing of personalphotos and data, and disturbing reportsabout Facebook’s business practicesthat we’ve seen over the last few years,it’s surprising that more people aren’tdropping them The fact that Facebookhas used its vast resources (which itaccrued courtesy of selling yourpersonal information, mind you) toacquire other platforms like Instagram,WhatsApp, and Oculus probablymeans things will get worse beforethey get better It’s also worth notingthat the founders of all three of thoselarge platforms mentioned, along withsome other smaller companies’

founders, have all left Facebookfollowing the takeovers CEO MarkZuckerberg and COO Sheryl Sandberghave been the public faces of thecarousel of problems plaguingFacebook (one count had the scandal list

at 21 for 2018 alone), and, largely becauseneither has much credibility of characterremaining, they have both failed in theirattempts to convince investors,congressional panels, and the publicthat they weren’t aware of the extent ofthe problems with the company andthat they would ensure things would beimproved Facebook’s stock price hasfallen in lockstep with this failure

The simple truth is, whether it’s inpublic government, private business,

or personal relationships, charactermatters We make our choices on who

to do business with, who to spend ourfree time, who to cast our vote for allbased on this assessment It’ssomething that transcends race,gender, and social strata, and Dr Kingrecognised it decades ago – the pivotalimportance of our character

almost home

TEG Media’s Group Editor Chad Merchant chose to move from the United States to Malaysia in 2008

to experience living in a different country Now, over 10 years later, he certainly recognises those

differences, yet feels, in some ways, almost home Feel free to drop a line to chad@tegmedia.my.

showed that 84% of the people inGermany, France, Great Britain,Canada, and Sweden believed that the

US president would “do the right thing

in world affairs.” One year later, thatnumber plunged to 16% in a repeatpoll To explain such a steep drop, oneneed only consider the character ofthe man in the Oval Office in 2016 andthe character of the one there in 2017

President Shepherd had it right allalong Being president really is entirelyabout character

Though certain specific traits of aperson are simple enough to identifyand point to – honesty, stubbornness,

shyness – defining character as a

general construct isn’t as easy It’scertainly more than integrity, but afundamental regard for truth and factobviously play a big role To me,character also encompassescompassion, goodwill, reliability, and awell-established (and functional)moral compass Respecting others

Not being guided by selfish interests

And just as the Pew poll revealed:

doing the right thing

Even companies are not immune tothis, as the character of a company isoftentimes set by the character of theperson or people at the top Outside

of politics (but increasingly gettingmixed up in it), one company that’scontinuing to struggle with regard toits character is Facebook Recently, thesocial media giant was once againembarrassed by news of its misdeeds– this time, the fact that Facebookgave third-party company access to itsusers’ private messages! And yet onceagain, Facebook issued the same old

mea culpa they’ve given every time

they get busted: “We’re sorry, we know

we have to do better, must regaintrust, blah blah blah.” Look, clearlythey’re in the business of miningpersonal data from their users andthen selling that data freely This iswhat they do, full stop Any notionthat they are a “community” or some

The Content of Character

THE EXPAT WOULD LIKE TO THANK:

TEG’s last wine dinner was held at one

of the city’s latest additions to the barscene; 10KL, located at KL GatewayMall 10KL, The restaurant is decked out

in a modern lounge setting, and isadjacent to a sports bar, hostess bar,

and speakeasy Having both al fresco

and indoor dining areas to choose from,our dinner guests opted to enjoy theirmeal outside

We started the meal with a deliciousfreshly roasted asparagus soup, cookedwith heavy cream, and served with cep.The soup was served alongside anArgentinian Familia Zuccardi Santa JuliaViognier For the appetiser, we hadtorched scallop with cauliflower puréeand sauce Veronique, paired with anAustralian Chardonnay

As for the main meal, guests had achoice of either the Wagyu beefrib-eye, or the Gindara Saikyo TheWagyu beef rib-eye was beautifullycharcoal grilled to preference, and

served with pumpkin hash, and jus It

went with a Chilean Luis Felipe EdwardsReserva Cabernet Sauvignon The othermain, Gindara Saikyo, a grilled freshblack cod marinated in miso and hajikami pickle, was paired with Luis FelipeEdwards Pupilla Rose from Chile.Dessert consisted of a classiccappuccino mousse, served with astrawberry compote, kiwi glaze, and achoice of coffee or tea

The great food and service saweveryone who turned up having a reallynice time, that some even decided tostay on and enjoy the live band at theadjoining bar for more drinks and adance or two

charged Please advise of any cancellation at least

48 hours prior to the dinner so that the seat(s) can

be released for others Thank you!

Date : 20th February 2019

Time : 7pm – 10pm

Pullman Kuala Lumpur

City Centre, Jalan Conlay,

50450 Kuala Lumpur

Price : RM170 Members /

RM195 Non Members

Our next wine dinner will be held at the

fabulous new Pullman Hotel Kuala Lumpur.The restaurant featured, is RED; an evolution

in Chinese cuisine with a modern, stylish

and innovative approach, with a menu

that’s bound to dazzle With a chic dining

atmosphere, this will be a night to look

forward to, so don’t miss it!

THE EXPAT WOULD LIKE TO THANK:

A few of them chose to stay on after theevent, too

The finger food and canapés servedconsisted of smoked salmon andasparagus quiche, cucumber and creamcheese mini sandwiches, mushroom

ragout vol-au vent, spicy chicken and

avocado burritos, warm mini apple pies,and mocha mousse in a chocolate cup.Drinks available for the night wereGuinness Stout, Strongbow, and Tigerbeer, and they were sponsored byHeineken Malaysia Berhad There werealso choices of red and white wines.For the lucky draw, we gave away acouple of F&B vouchers, entrance tickets

to the Mini Zoo at KL Tower, and Farm inThe City, as well as a 2D/1N stay atParkroyal Service Suites Kuala Lumpur.The Mingle is a fun opportunity to meetnew people, catch up with familiar faces,and to just have a great night socializingover drinks at a great price Bring yourfriends and join us for the next one!

A few of them chose to stay on after theevent, too

The finger food and canapés servedconsisted of smoked salmon andasparagus quiche, cucumber and creamcheese mini sandwiches, mushroom

ragout vol-au vent, spicy chicken and

avocado burritos, warm mini apple pies,and mocha mousse in a chocolate cup.Drinks available for the night wereGuinness Stout, Strongbow, and Tigerbeer, and they were sponsored byHeineken Malaysia Berhad There werealso choices of red and white wines.For the lucky draw, we gave away acouple of F&B vouchers, entrance tickets

to the Mini Zoo at KL Tower, and Farm inThe City, as well as a 2D/1N stay atParkroyal Service Suites Kuala Lumpur.The Mingle is a fun opportunity to meetnew people, catch up with familiar faces,and to just have a great night socializingover drinks at a great price Bring yourfriends and join us for the next one!

Vibes at Nizza

Tag your photos at TEG Mingle on facebook.com/TheExpatMalaysia

1H[W

Date : 27th February 2019 (Wednesday)

Time : 7pm – 9pm

Venue : Rock Bottom Kitchen and Bar

3 & 5 Jalan Telawi 2Bangsar Baru

59100 Kuala Lumpur

Prices:

Entrance fee (soft drinks) + food

TEG Members Price: RM30

Non-Cardholders: RM40

Entrance fee (free flow beer) + food

TEG Members Price: RM60

Non-Cardholders: RM75

Entrance fee (3 glasses of wine) + food

TEG Members Price: RM80

Non-Cardholders: RM95

Entrance fee with bottle of wine + food

TEG Members Price 1 PAX: RM95 • 2 PAX: RM115

Non-Cardholders 1 PAX: RM120 • 2 PAX: RM145

Extra glass of wine:RM15

Register online at http://mingle.expatgo.com

or call 03.2094 9664

Our next Mingle will be at Rock Bottom Kitchen andBar, in the heart of Bangsar Many are no stranger tothis buzzing locale of great food and live music, and wewill all be looking forward to a swell time See you

there for drinks and pumping tunes

NEW PRICES FOR MINGLES

As a result of continued price increases in the market,mostly for wine, we have had to adjust some of theprices for our monthly Mingles We have kept the

increases as modest as possible, and feel that the

Mingle still represents one of the very best money regular social events in Kuala Lumpur As

value-for-always, TEG Card members enjoy discounted pricing,

so do consider signing up We have also added an

option for wine drinkers to purchase a full bottle andtwo entries, each inclusive of food, so bring a friend,share a bottle, and enjoy the company!

Rock out at Rock Bottom

1H[W

Our next Mingle will be at Rock Bottom Kitchen andBar, in the heart of Bangsar Many are no stranger tothis buzzing locale of great food and live music, and wewill all be looking forward to a swell time See you

there for drinks and pumping tunes

As a result of continued price increases in the market,mostly for wine, we have had to adjust some of theprices for our monthly Mingles We have kept the

increases as modest as possible, and feel that the

Mingle still represents one of the very best

value-for-Rock out at value-for-Rock Bottom

Tag your photos at TEG Mingle on facebook.com/TheExpatMalaysia

The lovely grounds of Avira

Garden Terraces were onceagain filled with the jovialchatter of parents, students,and teachers, all enjoying a relaxingafternoon looking at the amazingtalent on display in the JohorInternational Schools YoungPhotographer’s Contest

Organized by Eastern & Oriental (E&O)and TEG Media, the Young

Photographer’s Contest is a month long photography competition

three-in which students of Johor’sinternational schools are invited tosubmit self-shot photographs aroundthe year’s theme of ‘Precious FamilyMoments.’ Fifty of the best pictureswere selected to make up an exhibit atthe Avira Sales Gallery This round

Precious Family Moments

national wau kite was also featured.

We thank E&O Avira Sales Gallery,sponsors, and volunteers, along withthe international schools whosupported this initiative forencouraging young talent, and wehope to see more in the next

competition Congratulations to the

winners and all who participated!

SENIOR WINNERS (AGE 13 – 18)

Champion: Paris Maree Coulson

Second: Amrit Fernando

Third: Ainna Farhana Binti Zaini

JUNIOR WINNERS (BELOW AGE 13)

Champion: Alexandria Al Puteri

Second: Arjun Anjayana Krishnan

Third: Miqhail Al Azim Bin Mohammad

Khairul Nizam

Most Voted Online: Asyirah Sofiah

Photo of the Day: Amrit Fernando

PARTICIPATING SCHOOLS

1 Marlborough College Malaysia

2 Excelsior international school

3 Sunway International school Johor

4 Crescendo Help International

School Johor

5 Sri Utama School

6 Tenby Johor

7 Sri ARA school

Jointly brought to you by Supporting sponsor

Want to see who’s sharing this foreign land with you? Get

acquainted with this sampling of expats! If you’d like to see yourself

on these pages in a future issue, we’d love to hear from you Just drop

us a line at info@tegmedia.my and request a questionnaire.

To see more pictures and articles featuring Expat Extracts please visit expatgo.com/interviews

Name: Brad Hogarth

Home Country: Australia

Designation:

Advert/Commercial Film Director

Marital Status: Married

What brought you to Malaysia and

how long have you been here?

I came to Malaysia to work in the film

industry in 1991

What do like and dislike most about

living in Malaysia?

I love the weather, my wife and kids,

and the vegetarian food here,

especially petai, tempeh and rawa tosai

(doh, I said it… the food!!) Also the

beaches, the opportunities, the rapid

pace… But even after 25 years, I still

detest durian, ikan bilis and traffic jams,

I have accepted ice in beer, chili pedas,

driving up close and personal, driving

on any side of the road and the haze

I’m such a cliché ‘guai lou’!

What is your favourite holiday

destination in Malaysia or in the

region?

The East Coast of Malaysia… Back in

1991 when Don Banard (another expat)

and I began surfing the unknown

monsoon surf of Terrenganu It wasn’t

known as a surf paradise but the waves

were and still are decent enough to get

a surf fix

Every endeavour begins with a sense

of adventure But for two expat surfers

residing in KL, our monsoon season

surf trips were looked on by others aslunacy Waking up at 4am to battle thetruck and bus drivers on the old Karakhighway, numerous forays onto themuddy shoulders, and floods, thelocals thought we were crazy We eventaught some locals to surf, the firstbeing Short Din (Cherating windsurfinginstructor), and Kamarul (older brother

of Malaysia’s famous surfer Mamat) It’samazing how much the surf scene hasgrown since then

Describe a memorable eating experience you have had here.

Eating is always memorable for me, so Idon’t have one that stands out, if youdon’t mind

Do you own property here? If so, where?

We do own a property in downtown KL;

it is somewhere I’d like to think we couldretire to

What do you miss most about your home country?

The surf And family

What advice would you give to a newly arrived expat?

Be patient and listen, embrace thedifferences you encounter, and learn

How long do you plan to stay in Malaysia? Where would you like to go next, and why?

Indefinitely, as it is where I now callhome I’ve lived here longer now than Ihave in Australia

Is Malaysia a good country to raise children? Why?

Yes, it’s relatively safe and full ofopportunity

Is Malaysia a good place in which to work and do business? Why?

Yes it is, as it is conveniently locatedwhen working with other countries in

Asia Also the cost of living is cheaper,and culturally it is more diverse so youget to experience more Asian cultures.The “Truly Asia” motto rings true from

my perspective.and the people here arejust great

Name: Gabriel Bonnin Roig

Home Country: Spain

Designation: Chef

Other Countries You’ve Lived in:

Brazil, Singapore

What brought you to Malaysia?

Actually I did not plan to live in Malaysiawhen I arrived Asia I was working inTapas Club Singapore with the foundersChef Jose and Chef Manu It was a lastminutes plan to assign me to assist anew branch in Malaysia

What do you like and dislike about living here?

I love Malaysia so much and this is out

of my expectation I really like the localfoods here and Malaysians are friendlyand kind This is what makes me feellike home The only thing I dislike aboutMalaysia is the traffic It takes time totravel to another destination, eventhough just a short distance It’s beenonly four months since I arrived inMalaysia, so there are still more placesfor me to explore in my to-do list!

Describe a memorable eating experience you have had here.

As I mentioned, I love the local food so

Brad Hogarth

Australia Advert/Commercial Film Director

Married

Gabriel Bonnin Roig

Spain Chef Brazil, Singapore

much and I have discovered some

places where I could visit every day,

such as Jalan Alor in Bukit Bintang

There are some restaurants in Jalan Alor

that really impressed me, and it’s where

my team and I have bonding time

However, the most memorable eating

experience I had here was authentic Si

Chuan Hot Pot in Kota Damansara

which is owned by a woman from

China Lastly, my go-to breakfast every

day before I go to work, is nasi lemak.

Always the best way to start the day

What do you miss most about your

home country?

When you stay far away from your

home, what you’ll miss the most is your

family, friends and food But my team

in Malaysia is taking good care of me

and I have made some friends here

They help me to adapt well to the

country and its cultures well Even

though I’m missing my home country, I

have taken Malaysia as my second

home I do however, really miss my

dog, Liamp, who I left with my parents

before leaving to work overseas I also

miss riding my Harley Davisdon

superbike I would say my bike is just

like my girlfriend I miss spending time

with ‘her.’

What advice do you have for a newly

arrived expat?

My advice to them is to make friends

with the locals, and try to understand

the history and character of the place I

would definitely advise them to enjoy

the local foods and visit the street

markets To be honest, I’m very lucky to

have my colleagues take me around

Kuala Lumpur At the same time, they

have taken good care of me and make

sure I did not miss anything interesting

here I’m so grateful to have them in

Malaysia, and I hope I can take them

around Spain one day!

How long do you plan to stay in

Malaysia? Where would you like to go

next, and why?

I am not thinking about leaving Malaysia

just yet, as I just arrived less than six

months ago It depends on the growth

of the company, and if they are happy

working with me Ideally, I would stay

permanently in Malaysia, as I had

always wished to work in an Asiancountry since I was young I amextremely grateful that I am fulfilling

my dream now Always work hard andnever give up

Is Malaysia a good place in which to work and do business? Why?

Spanish cuisine is a great businessopportunity especially in Malaysia, as it

is still a fairly unexplored scene here

However, there’s already some goodSpanish restaurants, but we would like

to contribute, and educate peopleabout Spanish cuisine It’s so muchmore than tapas and cold cuts We havebeen receiving great feedback fromboth local and foreign customers, so

that motivates me to work harder.

Name: Myra Mitha

Home Country: Pakistan

my family left Malaysia for Brunei abouttwo years ago, I continued to reside inMalaysia All in all, I’ve been here goingonto 10 years now

What do like and dislike most about living in Malaysia?

I like Malaysia’s diverse landscape; I’vecome to believe that the amalgamation

of different cultures here hassignificantly contributed to the person I

am now That, and the overall quality oflife Malaysia has to offer I’d say theweather is one aspect of Malaysia Ivehemently dislike – I miss cool winters!

What is your favourite holiday destination in Malaysia or in the region Why?

I absolutely adore Terengganu’s islands– Pulau Redang to be more specific On

my first visit there, I was taken aback bythe clear blue waters and pristine whitesand I felt like I’d landed in theMaldives, not Malaysia!

Describe a memorable eating experience you have had here.

Having my first bite of myBurgerLab’sburgers was definitely an enrichingexperience Their utilisation of Malaysia’svarious blend of flavours in burgers wasunlike something I’d ever eaten before

What do you miss most about your home country?

The food! I may have becomeaccustomed to Malaysian food and docrave for roti jala and Maggie gorengwhen I haven’t had it in a while, butthere’s just nothing quite like food fromback home in Pakistan

What advice would you give to a newly-arrived expat?

Don’t be afraid to mix with bothMalaysians and other expats from allbackgrounds You’ll gain a betterunderstanding of the world and itscultures once you do, and it’ll help tobroaden your mind in the long run –you can count on it

How long do you plan to stay in Malaysia?

I’d love to settle down permanently inMalaysia, since I’ve come to look at thecountry as more of a home for me thaneven Pakistan Unfortunately, however,Malaysia doesn’t offer foreigners thekind of opportunities I’m looking for,such as citizenship If only! I plan tomove onto Australia or New Zealandafter Malaysia, perhaps after a couplemore years here

Is Malaysia a good country to raise children? Why?

Definitely! The country’s diversity allowsfor the best possible growth in

perception and outlook on life forchildren – if they are enrolled ininternational schools, of course

M ra Mitha

Pakistan Jirnexu Brunei

Genting Highlands and the Man with the Midas Touch

There once lived a man born in a

humble village in 1918, that sat in the

mountainous county of Anxi; a

southeastern Fujian province in China

He was the fifth child of seven

children, and he led a fairly sheltered

and quiet life with his family, while

the rest of the country suffered

through great turmoil in the wake of

the Chinese Revolution of 1911, that

ended 2000 years of imperial reign

His name was Lim Goh Tong (Tan Sri),

a name that would later be

transcribed in Malaysia’s history of

entrepreneurial legacies

Tan Sri Lim came to Malaya at the age

of 19 while China was in the troubled

throes of civil unrest He started out as

a carpenter and went on to become a

building sub-contractor, all before the

onset of World War II and the Japanese

Occupation Having survived several

near-death experiences during the

occupation, Tan Sri Lim was forced to

go back to his roots of farming to

survive the war Frustrated with the

turn of events and the life he was

forced into – one which he thought he

had left behind – Tan Sri Lim decided

to try his hand at petty trading

instead, involving scrap metal and

various hardware

This proved to be a deeply sagacious

decision because with the end of the

Japanese Occupation came the dire

demand for heavy machinery to be

used in mines and rubber plantations

This was where Tan Sri Lim earned his

first fortune, catapulting him into the

ever-lucrative development and

construction industry

GENTING HIGHLANDS: A HISTORY

A dreamer at heart, Tan Sri Lim was

having dinner one night in Cameron

Highlands, enjoying the crisp cool air,

when he envisioned having a similar

recreational destination much closer to

the capital of Kuala Lumpur It was

during a time of industrial growth

several years after independence, and

as Malaysia’s GDP rose steadily, thebusiness opportunities that arecreational hill resort would bringwere tempting enough for the shrewdbusinessman to invest literally all ofhis money into creating it Though italso seems quite romantic, with hislove of the mountains still runningstrong in his veins, Tan Sri Lim soughtout his prized peak, and found it onthe summit of Mount Ulu Kali, atGenting Sempah

Nestled on the border of Selangor and

Pahang, in the Titiwangsa mountainrange, the venerable entrepreneursuccessfully obtained approval for theisolation of 12,000 acres of land fromboth the Selangor and Pahang stategovernments, to begin building hishilltop getaway

This started quite a daunting journey ofmodern development in 1965, whenGenting Highlands Berhad was set upamid cries of caution and generalconcern that the entrepreneur hadinvested heavily in something deemedtoo far-reaching Even so, with the

construction setbacks and health

problems which plagued the

businessman, the project was

considered “completed” in 1971

However, it took another 30 years of

continuous expansion for Genting

Highlands to evolve beyond its original

idea of a hilltop hotel with basic tourist

facilities, and another two decades in

the technological age to attain the

monolithic status of what the Genting

Group and Resorts World Genting is

today Diversifying into a plethora of

mainstream industries such as oil palm

plantations, property, paper, power

generation, oil and gas, as well as the

cruise ship industry; the Genting name

has reached monumental heights of

international recognition and

exorbitant wealth

THE GAMING PIONEER

The main reason why Genting

Highlands was granted a casino license

was because Tunku Abdul Rahman

himself witnessed Tan Sri Lim’s tirelessefforts in wanting to contribute toMalaysia’s tourism industry without anyfinancial aid from the governmentwhatsoever Ultimately, the decision togrant the gaming licence enabled theGenting Group to amass not onlywealth, but over 52 years of experience

in developing, operating, and marketingcasinos and integrated resorts all overthe world, namely in the United States,the Caribbean, Australia, Philippines,Singapore, and the United Kingdom

The Genting Group is listed on themain board of Bursa Malaysia’s stocks,and as of 2017, had a marketcapitalization of US$37.87 billion

RESORTS WORLD GENTING

Boasting a 5-star leisure resort and sixhotels – one of them being the

‘World’s Largest Hotel’ (First WorldHotel) – exciting theme parks, twostate-of-the-art cable car systems, asprawling Premium Outlet space,SkyAvenue Mall, the Chin Swee CavesTemple, and Arena of the Starsperformance venue; these are just theattractions that are within ResortsWorld’s vicinity Of course, just likemost sizeable, successful and longwithstanding tourist developmentmagnets, Resorts World Genting is notwithout its share of business crises andaccidental tragedies These includereports of financial family feuds withinthe extended Lim family being foughtover in court, and the 2013 GentingHighlands bus crash Even the Group’slargest hotel comes rife with macabretales of the supernatural

In late 2018, news broke of GentingMalaysia filing a billion-dollar lawsuitagainst newly merged Fox

Entertainment and Disney forallegedly backing out of the much-anticipated 20th Century Fox Worldmovie-inspired theme park, that wasset to be the first in the world

Conflicting reports from both sidescited weak currency rates,development delays, and the fact thatGenting being in the casino industrywould clash with Disney’s strong

“family friendly” image With thatbeing said, one can only marvel at the

pettiness that was so unnecessarilydisplayed over licensing agreements,when all parties involved were looking

to gain the same thing: more money

A HOPEFUL FUTURE

The formidable character that he was,the late Tan Sri Lim Goh Tong mostassuredly would have pulled his boardtogether and come up with

contingency plans of every imaginablesort And there is little doubt that that

is exactly what his son and successor,Tan Sri Lim Kok Thay, has already done

in terms of turning the whole themepark debacle around In fact, abrand-new indoor theme park calledSkytropolis Funland, spanning nearly7,000 sq ft, was launched on

8 December 2018, with all new ridesand attractions, as well as The VOID, aUS-based operator of unique, fullyimmersive virtual reality experiences,featuring ‘Star Wars: Secrets of theEmpire’ and ‘Ralph Breaks VR.’

Locals have quite an unshakeable pride

in what is considered a truly Malaysiancompany As massive and as

successful as the Group has become, it

is still undoubtedly Malaysian to thecore, and with all that the country hassurvived, it will surely still see usmaking our weekend trips to thisonce-empty looming hilltop, ready toescape our daily stresses, and winddown with some fun, even if it meansghost hunting because after all,they’re our ghosts, too

Ipoh Finds Its Feet

In tourism terms, Ipoh is best

described as a later developer It isoften overlooked as a holidaydestination, but one gets theimpression that things are changing asmore and more people become aware

of its tourism assets and increasinglyappreciate just how close Ipoh is for aweekend getaway

Most KL travellers probably drive pastIpoh on their way north to Penang (andthe inverse is also true), and few wouldtherefore consider it as a holidaydestination However, recentdevelopments have injected new zing

to ensure Ipoh is a more viableproposition for a weekend escape,especially as it is just a two-hour drivenorth of Kuala Lumpur, and a bit closerfor Penangites

Ipoh’s reputation as a tin town is wellknown, but tin alone probably isn’tsomething that will motivate visitors totravel to what is Malaysia’s third-largestcity after Kuala Lumpur and Penang.Tin was discovered in the 19th centuryand it made some people in Perak’sKinta Valley very wealthy, as seen bythe many large bungalows located inparts of Ipoh Fortunately, heritage hasbeen recognised by many as animportant ingredient in the tourismequation and now Ipoh is achievingrecognition for its historic assets

HERITAGE HEARTLAND

A close inspection of Ipoh’s historictown centre reveals many fascinatingaspects of the city’s past and of thewealth that was generated through thediscovery and subsequent mining oftin Arguably the finest building in thecity is the railway station which is thesecond such station to be built on thesite The first station opened in 1894,

More than just a town of white coffee and great noodles, Ipoh is

increasingly flexing its modern muscle as a legitimate tourist destination.

Travel photojournalist David Bowden visits the Perak capital city once

again and finds the tourism evolution there in full swing.

while construction of the second and

current station commenced in 1914

and was only completed in 1917 due to

difficulties in sourcing some materials

during WWI Built along the lines of

Moghul architecture, it opened as the

Perak Railways Building The station

celebrates its centenary this year, and

while the exterior remains mostly

untouched, the interior has been

modernised and made more

functional for travel in the 21st century

The old hotel within the station

appears to have closed, but hopefully

an entrepreneur will come to its rescue

and renovate it back to the grand hotel

that it once was While new hotels

have more recently opened in Ipoh,

Weekend market, Concubine Lane

the Railway Hotel was once the place

to stay in the grand era of railwaytravel

Just down the road, past the HighCourt, another fine establishment inthe Royal Ipoh Club is locatedoverlooking the extensive playingfields or the Padang Ipoh ThisTudor-style building is of a similararchitectural style to the RoyalSelangor Club in Kuala Lumpur

Meanwhile, opposite the club on Jalan

S P Seenivasagam is the imposingthree-storey St Michael’s School, which

is another historical building ofnational significance The schoolfeatures decorated gables andwide-arched verandas running the

length of the building

Apart from its man-made architecture,nature’s hand is celebrated here, too, asIpoh is famous for its tree-coveredlimestone hills which ring the city

Some caves within the hills have beenconverted into Buddhist and Hindushrines, with Sam Poh Tong, located7km south of Ipoh, the district’s largestcave temple It is worth travelling here

to visit the colourful temple and tostock up on fresh pomelo from one ofthe nearby stalls

HIP AND HAPPENING IPOH

The neighbourhood lifestyle hubcentred on Sekeping Hong Hengcoffeeshop in the historic centre of

Ipoh was initiated by several Ipohites

who banded together to not only save

the coffeeshop from development but

also to rejuvenate the area into a café,

art gallery, library, boutique hotel, and

shops

Visitors should home in on the area

surrounding the coffee shop (bordered

by Jalans Dato’ Sagor, Sultan Yussof,

Dato’ Maharajalela, and Bandar Timah)

and then fan out from there to

discover other historic attractions, such

as the Standard Chartered Bank and

the HSBC building located west of the

Kinta River and close to the railway

station

The maze-like rabbit warren of old

buildings around Sekeping Hong Heng

coffee shop showcase creative

refurbishments, with many buildings

retaining their historic façades Whilethe old classic coffee shop remainsuntouched, an extension out the backadds a more contemporary settingwith hints of the historic past

Accommodation is provided here, butit’s worth checking the Sekepingwebsite as the owners clearly statethat the accommodation is notsuitable for everyone Being sticklersfor authenticity and heritage, somerooms have minimal soundproofing (as

in the past), there is a communal areawhere mingling is encouraged, andthere is no air-conditioning – thoughmosquito nets are provided It’s not aboot camp, though, and it will appeal

to those seeking something unusualand something that has urbanauthenticity

The restaurant Plan b (Big Group) islocated here too and provideselements of the café society that manytravellers crave Melbourne is

recognised globally for its coffeeculture, so it’s no surprise that whenPlan b was seeking a premium coffeesupplier, it turned to one of

Melbourne’s leading roasters, BrotherBasil & Co., who have created amedium roast called Blend B fromEthiopian, Honduran, and Brazilianbeans just for the café It is richlyflavoured, just like Malaysians lovetheir coffee Plan b is perfectly located

in the historic centre of Ipoh in a retrofit-out building that combines heritagewith a hip interior There are alsoseveral boutiques and stalls in thesame space plus an art gallery andmale hairdressers

Visitors can squeeze through anopening in the fence to access otherproperties in the square such as theContainer Hotel and Burps and GigglesCafé The latter, a wonderfully quirkyconverted shoplot café, combinespremium coffees, small plates, wines,and creative dishes While it is set in aheritage property, there are flashes ofmodernity and splashes of colour with

a contemporary mural of MarilynMunroe and other funky pieces ofrecycled art Bits and pieces from theproperty have been reused andrecycled with colourful pendulous lightshades, doors used for tables and

Interior Plan b

Birch Memorial Clock Tower

others, recycled into artistic sculptures.

Opposite the building, Concubine Lane

reverts to a lively weekend market that

is especially popular with the locals

INDULGENT LIVING

There is no shortage of

accommodation in the city, with the

neon lights of some recognisable

brands emerging on the city’s skyline

Food lovers could easily check into

Indulgence Restaurant and Living and

spend the whole weekend savouring

its creative food, fine wines and

boutique accommodation Owner Julie

Song champions culinary creativity

and has established a chic and

luxurious boutique hotel located above

the restaurant The hotel’s seven

themed rooms are luxurious in their

décor, styling and comfort with no two

rooms decorated the same so check

online when booking to match the

room to your requirements and mood

GETTING THERE

Most visitors will drive to Ipoh butthe possibility of using the ERL trainshouldn’t be ruled out, especially bythose travelling alone There areseveral services a day and thejourney takes as long as the drive;

two hours Train travellers will alsohave the opportunity to admire thebeauty that is the Ipoh train station,although this is best done from theoutside as the interior has beentransformed into a modern facility

CONTACTS

Indulgence Restaurant and Living(indulgencerestaurant.com), Burpsand Giggles (allegraessentials.com),Sekeping (sekeping.com) and theIpoh Tourist Information Centre,Ground Floor, Ipoh City CouncilOffice, Jalan Bandar, T: +605208-3155

Contemporary styling is importantthese days and each room includes theessentials of travel such as rainforesthead shower, mini-bar, flat-screentelevision, and Wi-Fi

Ipoh is well-known as a haven fordelicious local fare, but even qualitycontinental cuisine has made inroads,particularly at Garvy’s in the Park,featuring fine French dining at thehands of acclaimed Michelin-starredchefs Garvy’s has a decidedly bistrofeel to it, and serves multi-coursedegustation menus in addition to itsregular à la carte offerings

For those who haven’t been to Ipoh,there is really a lot to do and see

Obtain either a guidebook or pamphlet

on Ipoh’s heritage trail from the tourismauthorities and set off for a weekend ofadmiring the city’s heritage attractionswithout compromising on life’s littleindulgences

Slow day in Ipoh barbershop Interior, Burps & Giggles

Malaysia’s East Coast Escape

Getting to Cherating is easy

enough, but the first 50km

can be rather

nerve-wracking, owing more to the

breakneck style of Malaysian driving on

the twisting, rolling roads than

anything It’s not as intense as a

high-speed jaunt on the North-South

Highway, but at least until you reach

the exit for Genting Highlands on the

Karak Highway (where loads of cars

tend to bail off), it can still be a bit

stressful But it doesn’t last long: The

first hour on the Karak Highway takes

you over the crest of the mountain

range running down the spine of

Peninsular Malaysia into the heart of

Pahang, where it joins up seamlessly

with the East Coast Highway –

Lebuhraya Pantai Timur – and from

that point, the land flattens out and it’s

an easy drive to the coast, taking about

three hours in total from KL

SEASIDE SCENERY

It must be noted that the

postcard-perfect sugar-white sands that make

the east coast’s northern islands so

alluring are indeed not present here

The sand is a rich golden colour, and

the beaches are unfortunately littered

with debris both natural and made at times, depending on oceancurrents But when things go right, thevast, sweeping crescent of beachfronting the South China Sea issplendid, and you’ll have it prettymuch to yourself more often than not

man-The coast here is largely undeveloped,which of course has its pros and consfor the weekend traveller Relativelyuntainted by humans, the shores offer

a prime breeding ground for marineturtles, and all along the coast, lifeflourishes Mere metres from thepounding surf, monkeys scamper onthe beach in search of an easy meal,wild boars root through the scrub, andseabirds circle lazily overhead A few

ramshackle kampungs dot the area

between Cherating and Kuantan, 47km

to the south, and Chukai, about 10kmnorth, but human encroachment inthese parts hasn’t proliferated at all,and once you get off the relativelyhectic main two-lane road even just abit, you’ll feel fairly isolated

TURTLE TALES

The beaches at Cherating are perhapsmost well-known for their sea turtles.Though the numbers have dramaticallydeclined over the years, dozens offemale green turtles still find their wayback to the beaches here – where theythemselves were first hatched – to laytheir eggs and introduce a newgeneration to the seas The “turtleseason” generally runs from May toAugust, so it’s coming up soon, and ifyou’re fortunate, you can be there towatch It’s a remarkable experience tosee these large, gentle reptiles emergefrom the sea and slowly make theirway to a spot on the beach and dig out

a deep hole Once the hole is prepared,the female will lay her eggs by thedozen, each about the size of aping-pong ball On my first trip toCherating, we got the call around10pm that the turtles had arrived, so

we went to the beach and watchedwith wonder The new mother weobserved deposited just over ahundred soft eggs in her burrow, and

Though often overlooked, Cherating Beach and its environs – including the nearby towns of Kuantan and Chukai – offer an enjoyable excursion within

an easy driving distance of KL Editor Chad Merchant checks in with an

overview of this quiet seaside town over on Malaysia’s east coast.

Cherating beach

Green Turtle laying her eggs

once completed, she filled in the hole

with sand, and shuffled off back to the

surf There is no nurturing period of

parenting for marine turtles; once the

eggs are laid, she considers her

mothering duties fulfilled and the

hatchlings are completely on their

own Females who survive those first

tenuous years of life will return to the

same beach in 25-30 years to lay their

own eggs

Another turtle centre here is the

Rimbun Dahan Turtle Hatchery, which

is run by The Kasturi resort and has a

simple and effective business model:

Buy the eggs which are collected by

local boys (legally) and rebury them in

the safety of the hatchery until the

eggs hatch, about six weeks later The

hatchlings are then released into the

sea, usually with the participation of

delighted guests of this still-new resort

In addition to the green turtle, the

waters off the coast of East Malaysia

are home to other turtle species, too,

including the hawksbill turtle and the

critically endangered leatherback

turtle, the largest sea turtle – indeed

the largest of any living turtle species

– in the world Both of these marine

turtles are counted as ambassadors of

the rich variety of life found in

Malaysia’s coastal waters In fact, the

coastline near Cherating was once

home to the greatest nesting

population of leatherback turtles on

Earth, but sadly, rampant egg

consumption by humans has

effectively wiped out the entire

subpopulation here Valiant efforts to

reinvigorate the leatherback’s presence

in Malaysia have, to date, been largely

ineffective, and the story of thiswondrous turtle’s precipitous decline inthe country’s coastal waters nowserves as a cautionary tale in ongoingconservation efforts

THE VILLAGE AND THE RIVER

The old village, Kampung CheratingLama, is really the heart of Cherating,and also offers a few very goodseafood restaurants – very casual andopen-air – and though the seafoodisn’t as cheap as you might expect,relaxing around sunset time with somebarbecued stingray, grilled snapper,and a platter of freshly floured anddeep-fried squid is a most enjoyableway to begin the evening And for atruly local experience, be sure to stop

at one of the impromptu snack shacksset up at various street corners Notmuch more than a roving food stallwith a few plastic tables and stools,these places are great to order a plate

of pisang goreng (fried banana fritters)

and fresh coconut water Life moves at

a slower pace in the village, and it’sgreat to just wander around and seewhat strikes your fancy

Near the village, the gently flowingCherating River is a surprisingly scenicwaterway by day, owing to its cleanwater (unlike many of Malaysia’smuddy rivers) and lush foliage on thebanks By night, it’s possible to book ariver journey with the no-surname-required Hafiz, who has been running asuccessful river tour operation fromKampung Cherating Lama for years

Pass over one of those turtle-adornedRM20 notes and you’ll get aninformative seminar on the fireflieshere – a different species than the

famous fireflies of Kuala Selangor –and then a most enjoyable boat tour

up the river The relaxing tour lasts justunder an hour, and in years past, if youtook this little cruise during a newmoon, you’d find the deep darkaffording a wonderful spectacle ofshimmering fireflies and a vast field ofstars high above the blackened banks

of the river These days, sadly, it’s lesscertain you’ll have that level ofdarkness On our last excursion here,bright lights on the land at variousspots along the river rather interruptedthe nighttime feel and made theappearance of fireflies a bit lessimpressive by comparison Hopefullythat’s been addressed, as more thanone tour operator relies on the incomederived from ferrying visitors keen tospot the luminous insects One suchmainstay is the aforementioned Hafiz,who has been around for years andyears Signs for “Hafiz’s CheratingActivities” abound around the area,and if you can’t find the place, it’s asure bet almost anyone you ask would

be able to help you! You can discovermore about what’s on offer athafizcheratingactivities.blogspot.com

Cherating remains a seaside townworthy of a weekend escape It’s anauthentically local sort of place, andwhile that’s mostly good, it also meansexpectations must be realistic It doessuffer a bit from the all-too-commonlocal hallmarks of subpar service andmediocre maintenance – with notableupmarket exceptions such as Club Medand The Kasturi – but both the beachand the village of Cherating still offer acharming and delightful getaway fromthe hectic pace of city life

Cherating River Evening beachside comfort at The Kasturi

As we kick off the Year of the Earth

Pig with this month’s lunar new

year festivities, we bring you two

perenially popular destinations in

Malaysia and in the region!

For February, we head south to

one of the country’s most popular

getaway cities, Melaka This

UNESCO World Heritage city, about

two hours from Kuala Lumpur, is

widely considered Malaysia’s cradle

of history Its chequered timeline

has seen the port city in the hands

of the British, the Dutch, and the

Portuguese Combine that with the

local cultures, and you have one the

country’s most unique cities

Regionally, we visit Thailand, a

popular choice for people living in

Malaysia We present a round-up of

a number of intriguing Thai islands

to visit, and also check out the scene

at the always-energetic beachside

A Spice-Infused Heritage

Located two hours south of Kuala Lumpur by car, Melaka is arguably Malaysia’s cradle of history As

photojournalist David Bowden shares, the port city’s

multicultural melange of heritage owes much to the emergence of global trade and the popularity of tropical spices.

If there was ever a destination

awaiting a book to be written, it is

Melaka (Melaka and Malacca are

interchangeable spellings, with thelatter now the official name) What abook it would be, too, as almost everybuilding in its old town has layers ofhistory, and if their walls could talk,what tales they would surely tell! Now

a joint UNESCO World Heritage site(since 2008, it and Penang constitutethe Historic Cities of the Straits ofMalacca designation), Melaka is

receiving increasingly more regionaland even global attention

Melaka’s history is, of course, steeped

in trade The port city has traded forcenturies with Chinese merchants,Indian merchants, Portuguesemariners, Dutch entrepreneurs, andBritish enterprises The port’s strategiclocation on the Straits of Malacca –along with its proximity to valuabletropical spices – ensured Melakabecame and remained an important

Nutmeg and mace

Historic Melaka

centre of trade (Note that the Straits

waterway designation retains its

colonial-era spelling, adding a touch of

confusion to the mix.)

A HISTORY OF TRADE

The city’s strategic location cannot be

emphasised enough, as the

900km-long Straits of Malacca is a critically

important waterway for vessels

passing from the Indian Ocean to the

Pacific Ocean Early traders from

Arabia, Africa, India, and eventually

Europe harnessed monsoonal winds

from June to November to sail from

the west to Asia making their firstlandfall in present-day Kedah Here theytraded goods and then returned to theirhome ports on the reverse monsoonalwinds from December to May

When China entered the trade market,goods started moving over vaststretches of ocean with merchants inports like Melaka accepting anddispatching goods from all parts of theglobe History notes that the formerfishing village of Melaka was under thecontrol of a sultanate as early as 1377

The people living there went abouttheir lives without too muchinterference, but on the other side ofthe world, European powers hadthoughts of exploring, expanding, and,some would argue, exploiting on theirminds

The Age of Discovery started in Europe

in the 15th century and heralded aperiod of empire building and tradeexpansion European leaders fundedexplorers, navigators, and adventurers

to venture across previously unchartedseas in search of riches They

unknowingly took with them diseasesthat soon decimated isolatedcommunities around the world andintroduced slavery in many parts, whilereturning with bounty that madeEuropean powers very wealthy Some

of the most prized items were spices,

in particular those sourced from thetropics in countries such as present-day India and Indonesia In his superb

book, At Home, author Bill Bryson

outlines the importance that spicesthen had in the development of portssuch as Melaka and on global trade Heclaims that “Nobody would die withoutspices, but plenty have died for them.”

While salt had fascinated people forcenturies, it was that other diningcondiment essential called pepper thatbecame a household necessity in the16th century Up until then, it had beenonly the wealthy who could afford tospice up their life with pepper Laterday observers assumed that spicesmerely masked bad ingredients, soexplaining their rare appearance inEuropean kitchens, but as Brysonexplains, in reality, it was only thewealthy who could initially afford thisexpensive luxury that we now take forgranted Pepper was king among arange of exotic spices, but as more ofthe world was discovered and tradeopened up, many new ingredientswere added to European cooking pots.Spices such as cinnamon, turmeric,cloves, ginger, nutmeg, and maceextended the creativity of chefs there.Bryson comments, “For centuries,spices were not just the world’s most

A’Famosa Fort

Shoplots, Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock

valued foodstuffs, they were the most

treasured commodities of any type

The Spice Islands, hidden away in the

Far East, remained so desirable and

prestigious and exotic that when James

I gained possession of two small islets,

it was such a coup that, for a time, he

was pleased to style himself King of

England, Scotland, Ireland, France,

Puloway, and Puloroon.”

Scarcity and rarity contributed to the

value of these spices with nutmeg (the

Dutch ceded Melaka to the British in aswap that saw the Dutch take overBritish-controlled Bencoolen(Bengkulu) in Sumatra

Each colonial power left its footprint inMelaka and contributed to the city’seclectic architecture Chinese buildings

seed) and mace (the fleshy surrounds

of the seed) topping the list of mostvaluable spices By the time these rarecommodities had reached Europe,they had travelled a long way andpassed through many hands and ports(including Melaka) As is still largely thecase in the global supply chain,everyone along the way had their handout for a slice of the action, and Brysonsuggests that by the time the humblenutmeg/mace duo arrived in Europe, itwas up to 60,000 times the originalpurchase price

HISTORIC JIGSAW PUZZLE

Melaka’s historic town centre is amelange of the old and new,seemingly like pieces of a jigsaw puzzleawaiting completion For visitors, it’ssuggested to begin exploring the oldtown on the banks of the Melaka River

The Portuguese came seeking spices in

1511 and remained for more than acentury before the Dutch wrestedMelaka from them After 150 years, the

Nutmeg fruit

Pepper on vine

Sid’s Pub, Melaka

adjacent to Dutch-built churches and

Moorish-inspired mosques are part of

the mix Colonial influences,

meanwhile, are best reflected in the

architecture around Dutch Square,

where visitors could well be forgiven

for thinking they were in a Dutch

village Christ Church and the

Stadthuys are modelled along an old

square in the Dutch village of Groot

Lindt in southern Holland Both

buildings, in their striking red-coloured

glory, are the most photographed

structures in Melaka Christ Church is

also Malaysia’s oldest Protestant

Church

The ruin of St Paul’s Church built in

1512 are nearby and at the foot of the

hill is Porta de Santiago, which is all

that remains of the imposing A’Famosa

fortress that once protected the town

In the early 19th century, the British

East India Company, which controlled

the trade with Melaka, wanted to

demolish the fortress, but Sir Stamford

Raffles intervened His efforts

managed to save the gate entrance,

but regrettably, not much else

Across the Melaka River, the historic

town centre is dominated by mostly

two-storey Chinese shoplots Many

along Jalan Hang Jebat (Jonker Street)

and Jalan Tun Cheng Lock are typical of

the era Jalan Tun Cheng Lock was

known as Millionaire’s Row, and several

ornately decorated Baba Nyonya-stylehouses have been lovingly restoredalong the street Shops such as Abdul’s,Jacob Antiques and Malaqa Houseoffer for sale items of Malaysian,Chinese, and colonial antiquity

However, in line with Melaka’s growingcommercialism, many items thesedays are not from Melaka, nor offermuch significance to or reflection of itsgenuine heritage

One of Melaka’s big attractions is thelifestyle of the Nyonyas and Babas

The Chinese first traded with Melaka

in the 15th century, and the Chinese

settlers who intermarried with thelocal Malays became known as theBaba (men) and Nyonya (women) TheChinese adopted many Malaycustoms through contact andintermarriage, and their cuisine is aunique blend of Chinese and Malaystyles, now known as Nyonya orPeranakan cuisine As these peoplebecame wealthier, so did their passionfor luxuries like ornate furniture,jewellery, and clothing Their houseswere decorative and lavish, withpatterned tiles, decorated walls, andheavily carved, inlaid Baroque-stylefurniture adorning the interiors Theclothes worn by wealthy Nyonyasincluded embroidered blouses,

sarongs, and beaded slippers and

these were dressed up further stillwith intricate jewellery

While each colonial era left its mark,visitors to the historic town centre nowenjoy an urban streetscape that isuniquely Melaka Sadly, several recentand possibly unchecked developmentsjar with the city’s historic fabric moreoften than not Nevertheless, Melakaremains one of Malaysia’s most visitedtourist destinations, one that revealssomething new with each visit Its backlanes and the more popular touristareas with a dizzying array of shops,museums, and restaurants are stillworth discovering, and happily, much

of this can be done on foot

Lantern and temple decorations

Portrait ornate façade Jonker Street

Melaka’s Cultural Medley

Istood at the gate of the house like

a peasant from a previous century

and just stared It was so beautiful,

and in no time, my hand

automatically moved to the latch to

open the grille bearing the initials CYC,

only to find it locked Over the years,

every visit to Melaka would inevitably

find me back in front of No 117 Heeren

Street, and it spurred me to learn more

about this building that appeared

straight out of another age Standing in

all its opulence directly opposite Hotel

Puri, the Chee Mansion is the most

breathtaking house on Melaka’s famed

Melaka enjoys a diverse and rich heritage with well-known cultural touches from the Malays, British, Portuguese, and Dutch At times overshadowed are the Chinese, whose own long presence in Melaka has significantly influenced

that city’s fascinating history Paula Tan takes us on a journey through time

and reveals the deep connection between Melaka and Chinese culture.

Millionaires’ Row It was built circa

1906 in memory of the famed tin oremerchant Chee Yam Chuan, who wasappointed head of the Hokkiencommunity at 21, but died at 45 in

1862 from a bullet to the head Thisarchitectural showpiece was the vision

of his son, Chee Swee Cheng –Malaysia’s first chairman of theOverseas Chinese BankingCorporation, better known as OCBC

Despite having opened its familyphoto gallery in July 2016, the buildingremains an ancestral shrine today, withits upkeep funded by the Yam Chuan

Trust and Chee Yam Chuan’sdescendants of now 10th-generationMalaysians

From the era of Melaka’s first Chineseprincess, the fabled Hang Li Po,Chinese settlers like the Chee familyhave played a major role in crafting theland’s illustrious history Their livinglegacy continues to grow acrossMelaka in the present day, perpetuated

by those who keep it burning Whileintermarriage was common, creating afusion of Chinese and Malay - the non-Chinese speaking Peranakan Babas

and Nyonyas, Chinese culture itself has

remained undiluted, albeit with a dash

of Melaka flavour

CHINESE CULTURAL ECHOES

Among the most prominent landmarks

left by Melaka’s early Chinese were

their clan or kongsi houses, dedicated

to patron deities and functioning as

homes to their ancestral tablets The

Chinese also brought to Malaya the

kongsi system, characterized by group

cohesiveness and brotherhood The

word kongsi has since been absorbed

into the Malay language, and means

‘share’ A kongsi is an association of

individuals from the same dialect

group, or area in China These played a

benevolent role to their members and

often provided help and protection for

newcomers According to a marble

tablet at 122 Heeren Street which now

houses the Eng Choon Association, itwas constructed in 1800, renovated in

1875, and restored in 1949 Abenevolent organization, it preservedBukit China, Melaka’s largest Chinesecemetery and did this by working out

an exchange of land that preventedthe British authorities from displacing

it More recently, the association hassupported schools and libraries

Another such association payingtestament to the past at Jonker Street

is the Hokkien Huay Kuan, whichserved a similar function in the past,but is now where community retireesgather on weekends for karaokesessions

Also residing on Jonker Street is anoften-overlooked polyglot letterpressmuseum housed in a colonial buildingthat blends Chinese, Dutch, and

Portuguese influences Known as TheRoyal Press, its name was inspired byLuo Yang, one of China’s four greatancient capitals and cradles of culture.Preserving the art of letterpressprinting, the Royal Press is one of theoldest surviving polyglot letterpressprinting houses in the world It haswithstood the ravages of time, andcontinues printing for a small clienteletoday The museum houses a range ofletterpress machines and printedartefacts from the time of its inception

in 1938 There is also an extensiveletter-block library with over 150,000blocks in four writing systems: Romanalphabets, Chinese characters, Arabic,and Tamil scripts Refurbished in astyle as close to original as possible,The Royal Press preserves the legacy

of the Lay Swee family, and was thevision of grandson Ee Soon Wei

THE TEMPLES OF THE TIME

Capturing Melaka’s early Chinesesettlers journey of faith andperseverance in, perhaps the mostprominent way, are the temples theybuilt The beautiful Cheng Hoon Tengtemple on Jalan Tokong is Malaysia’soldest traditional Chinese temple,founded in the 1600s by the ChineseKapitan Tay Kie Ki The temple’sarchitecture reflects the skills ofmigrant builders and craftsmen fromFujian and Guandong, and conformsstrictly to the principles of feng shui,incorporating the belief that everyaspect of life is related to attaining

harmony with nature Records in stone

state that the temple was carefully laid

out to ensure a balanced view of the

river and high ground on either side

Aside from serving the community’s

religious needs in the early years, the

temple also functioned as the official

administrative centre and a court of

justice for the Kapitans Recipient of a

UNESCO award for outstanding

architectural restoration, Cheng Hoon

Teng is now overseen by a board of

trustees and ranks among Southeast

Asia’s most significant temples

Not too far away at Bukit China,

another ancient temple graces its

surroundings With construction

beginning around 1795, Po San Teng is

dedicated to Tua Pek Kong, the

guardian deity of the land and 12,500

graves on the nearby Bukit China hill

Contrary to popular belief, the temple

is not associated with the Ming

Dynasty explorer Admiral Zheng He,

but linked to a legendary fish said to

have saved one of his ships by using its

body to stop a leak that could have led

to tragedy With its name translating to

Precious Hill Temple, the temple is

home to a water source known as

Hang Li Po’s Well, the main source of

fresh water for the city from the 15th

century

AN ENDURING INFLUENCE

Bringing with them to Melaka their

customs and lifestyle, the early

Chinese made a profound impact in

the fashion trends of their time, and

of this country Even now, no

self-respecting Chinese bride goes

through her wedding without wearing

an elaborate brocade cheongsam or

qipao, and all Chinese newlyweds still

serve tea to their parents and elders

in a traditional ceremony of respect

The lunar new year still sees many

Malaysian women resplendent in their

cheongsams, and on Jonker Street, a

shop remains where one can purchase

stylish cheongsams still tailored in the

way they used to be decades ago

Having been in operation for a mere 16

years, Hua Mei cheongsam shop

recreates this flattering feminine

costume that dates back to the

17th-century Manchu or Qing Dynasty

The garment is available in its authentic

form, as well as with a modern slant on

the original design

While on a cultural shopping trip,

indulge your sense of whimsy with a

handmade pair of Chinese clogs Once

typical Chinese footwear for heavy

labour, these elevated wooden slippers

were originally designed to protect feet

from wet and dirty conditions at farms,

factories and tin mines Now

reproduced in their signature red at Old

Town Clog Shoes on Jonker Street, they

make attractive souvenirs from a

forgotten time The store suppliesoriginal handmade wooden clogs and afine selection of hand-stitched beadedshoes, overseeing the entire process ofcreation, from cutting to painting

A visit to Melaka at any point of the yearreveals a living record of its first Chinesesettlers From the elaborate practicesduring the Hungry Ghost festival, tocuisine like the red eggs and “redtortoise” beanpaste cakes thatcommemorate a baby turning onemonth old, the imprint of these proudpeople lives on The Chinese oncecame to seek their fortune on Melaka’sshores, and in doing so, they mergedwith the rich local tapestry withoutlosing sight of who they were In the

reflection of feng shui mirrors on a

kopitiam wall, I contemplate the

centuries-old street outside – a glimpse

of what they left behind, in the landthey chose to call home

Borneo: A Blue Skies

Travel Guide

Iwas first introduced to the work of

David Bowden when I bought a

visually beautiful coffee table

book called Enchanting Penang, in

a popular café in George Town I

was born in Penang, and spent the

better part of my secondary school

years there before becoming an expat

myself for a good 15 years I found his

book when I was on holiday in my

home town some years ago, and

decided it would be a great

conversation piece for people asking

me about my island And as it happens

quite a lot, I would just show them the

book

Following the Enchanting series

(Enchanting Malaysia, Enchanting

Langkawi, Enchanting Penang, and

Enchanting Borneo, among others), is

his latest piece simply called Borneo,

printed in the form of a pocket book

by Blue Skies Travel Guide

These are a new series of pocket-sized

travel guides aimed at first-time

travelers, featuring an extended

introduction to the natural history of

the destination Written in three parts,

the first section describes the major

highlights and the natural

environment, with details on where

and how to explore the nature and

wildlife of Sabah, Sarawak, Brunei, and

Kalimantan The second section looks

at the significant locations with

information for each on plants and

animals, cultural sites, interesting

architecture, local food and customs,

activities, entertainment and shopping

opportunities The final section

contains all of the practical information

needed both before and during a stay

Borneo, the world’s third-largest island,

consists of three countries: Malaysia

(the states of Sabah and Sarawak),

Indonesia (Kalimantan), and Brunei

Darussalem Venturing into Borneo

invites a kaleidoscope of adventurous

travel With vast rainforests that areover 130 million years old, over 63different species of endemicmammals, and 61 species of endemicbirds, a rich history of trade ofWestern-Eastern trade, and more than

40 ethnic tribes, anyone who has evervisited Borneo for the experience willleave wanting more As it is quiteimpossible to experience everythingthe island has to offer in one trip alone,

no matter how long it may be

One of its many fascinating features isthat the whole island sits in the middle

of what is known as the Coral Triangle,which extends from Sumateraeastwards to the Solomon Islands inthe Pacific Ocean Its waters harbor thelargest collection of coral reefs in theworld, and in turn, the corals supportvast numbers of other marineorganisms The Coral Triangle is home

to some 600 species of coral, 3,000fish species, and the largest extent ofmangrove forests anywhere on theplanet Some 75 per cent of all theworld’s coral reef species survive in theCoral Triangle, as do six of the world’sseven species of marine turtles Known

as the ‘Amazon of the Oceans’, theCoral Triangle is vitally important asthe nursery of the sea for manyspecies that are of benefit not only toscience, but also to humans as a source

of food

Borneo is home to 20 million people,although the remotest communitiesare unlikely to be included in this total

Numerous people now live an urbanexistence, and while internationalcultural performances are staged inplaces such as the Sarawak CulturalVillage in Damai, many communitiesmaintain their cultural traditionslocally, and are happy to share themwith visitors

As for its biodiversity, the rainforestsand waters in and around Borneo are

some of the richest and mostimportant of any ecosystem in theworld Which is why the island’secotourism is essential to the survival

of the forests, as it gives ongoing value

to these natural areas that in manycases, are seen as a resource to exploit.Ecotourism assigns sustainable value

to the natural resources and providescommunities with an income, whilepreserving these valuable resources

Covering all the important facts totraveling in Borneo; its main cities,national and marine parks, animalconservations, cultural villages,festivals, as well as its customs andetiquette, this is a thoroughlyresearched guide of 160 pages, idealfor anyone looking to visit, learn about,and explore this incredible island

David Bowden is a freelance photojournalist specialising in travel, food and the environment While being an Australian national, he has been based in Asia for over two decades He is the author of several books travel books, as well as a contributing writer to The Expat magazine.

expat excursion: pahang

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Thai Islands:

A Karst of Thousands

While there are several

main Thai islands –referred to locally askoh or ko – if all thespecks of land surrounded by water are

included, there are hundreds along the

country’s coastline Many travellers

became aware of the dramatic beauty

of maritime Thailand when Khao Phing

Kan formed the backdrop to the 1974

James Bond movie The Man with the

Golden Gun Moviegoers were

captivated by the island’s towering,

forested cliffs lining Phang Nga Bay to

the northeast of Phuket

Karst topography develops on

limestone rock and is characterised by

steep cliffs, rounded hills, caves,

suspended lakes, and backwaters

called hongs The rocks are blanketed

by distinctive plants and some trees,

all of which are able to survive in the

thin layer of soil Though these tropical

oceanic cliffs are certainly not unique

to Thailand – karst geological

formations occur in many other parts

of the world, after all – Malaysia’s

northern neighbour is arguably

endowed with some of the finest

Phuket and Samui are of course well

known to regional and even global

travellers, but lesser-known islands

such as Chang, Samet, Bulon, Muk,

Racha Yai, and Kut remain as paradises,

most just off the travel radar

Backpackers of the ’60s and ’70s

pioneered travel to Thailand, and while

they still flock here, especially to the

Though Bangkok is a major draw card for Thailand’s tourism industry, it’s the country’s range of alluring islands that places it firmly in the sights of

so many global travelers Join travel writer David Bowden as he swings

through Thailand’s island-dotted Andaman Sea and Gulf of Thailand and rounds up a number of islands both famous and barely known.

Coastal View from the Pullman Arcadia Phuket