Fundamentals of Coastal Processes

Fundamentals of Coastal Processes Course Objectives To provide a comprehensive knowledge about the hydrodynamic phenomena and processes which govern the motion of waves, currents, and

Fundamentals of Coastal Processes

Course Objectives

To provide a comprehensive knowledge about the

hydrodynamic phenomena and processes which

govern the motion of waves, currents, and mean

water level in coastal areas

The lectures will focus both on the fundamental

characteristics of the processes and how to

mathematically model them

Course Outline

• Wave theory (focus on shoaling and surf zone)

• Engineering properties of waves

• Wave generation and propagation

• Wave transformation

• Nearshore currents,

•Sediment transports

•Coastal line changes

Detailed Course Overview

* Course objectives and overview

1- Introduction to coastal hydrodynamics

2- Linear wave theory and Engineering wave properties

3- Higher-order wave theories

4- Wave statistics

5- Wave generation and propagation

6- Wave transformation

7- Surf-zone wave models

8- Near-shore currents

9- Wave-current interaction

10- Water level variations

11- Typhoon waves and surges

12- Incipient motion and closure depth

13- Long-shore sediment transport

14- Cross-shore sediment transport

15- Fundamentals of Coastline changes

* Laboratory experiments using wave flume

* Field trip

* Oral examination (16 Nov 2014)

References

Dean G.R and Dalrymple, A.R (2002) Coastal Processes

with Engineering Applications Cambridge University Press

Sorensen R.M (2006) Basic Coastal Engineering (3rd

edition) Springer

Massel R.S (1989) Hydrodynamics of Coastal Zones

Elsevier

Reeve D., Chadwick A and Fleming C (2004) Coastal

Engineering: Processes, theory and design practice Spon

Press.