Financial times how to spend it 5 august 2017

how to · GIORGIO ARMANI A rare interview with the man behind the empire · ERDEM MORALIOGLU The fashion designer talks personal taste · A JOURNEY TO JORDAN A private tour of the country’s

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how to

· GIORGIO ARMANI A rare interview with the man behind the empire

· ERDEM MORALIOGLU The fashion designer talks personal taste

· A JOURNEY TO JORDAN A private tour of the country’s unearthly delights

· PLUS Over 1,000 inspirational ideas in the Gift Guide, updated daily

9

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R EGUL A R S

11 THE AESTHETE Hakan Rosenius talks

personal taste with Beatrice Aidin

21 ECLECTIBLES Desirable acquirables

for the person and the home

22 THE SHARPENER Tom Stubbs welcomes

the return of the camp-collar shirt

25 TRAVELISTA Maria Shollenbarger

on where to be and what to see

30 THE E-DIT The best of recent stories

on Howtospendit.com

45 TECHNOPOLIS Jonathan

Margolis is our IT boy

53 LOOSE CHANGE Raphặlle Helmore’s

first class find for under £100

55 PAST MASTERS Ming Liu on the playful

nostalgia of vintage vending machines

57 WRY SOCIETY Sam Leith’s tale of

a Machiavellian croquet match

59 THE CULT SHOP Jemima Sissons says

please to Japanese in Hackney

59 FOR GOODNESS’ SAKE A trinity

of charitable channels cherry-picked

by Charlotte Tottenham

61 THE GANNET Bill Knott relishes

masterful Mexican cuisine in Tijuana

61 THE GOBLET Alice Lascelles savours the

vibe at two new London wine bars

62 PERFECT WEEKEND Jason Basmajian’s

Loire Valley haunts, by Ming Liu

32

TWITTER.COM/HTSI EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES 020-7873 3203 ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES 020-7873 4208 COVER IMAGE Getty Images, see page 12 How To Spend It magazine is printed by Wyndeham Peterborough Limited for, and published by, The Financial Times Ltd, Number One Southwark Bridge, London SE1 9HL Origination by Dexter Premedia

EDITOR GILLIAN DE BONO DEPUTY EDITOR BEATRICE HODGKIN ACTING DEPUTY EDITOR TIM AULD ASSISTANT EDITOR LUCINDA BARING ACTING ASSISTANT EDITOR MARIA FITZPATRICK DIGITAL EDITOR IAN SHINE COMMISSIONING EDITOR LAUREN HADDEN EDITORIAL RESEARCHER MARIANNA GIUSTI EDITORIAL ASSISTANT CLARA BALDOCK JUNIOR EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS CHLOE CHEUNG,

ABI MCQUATER ART DIRECTOR BEN TURNER DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR ELISABETH LIMBER PICTURE EDITOR KATIE WEBB PICTURE RESEARCHER GEMMA WALTERS CHIEF SUBEDITORS LIZ ATHERTON, KATE CHAPPLE SUBEDITOR ROBERT COOK JUNIOR SUBEDITORS CHERISH RUFUS, NATALIE TAYLOR FASHION DIRECTOR DAMIAN FOXE JUNIOR FASHION EDITOR MILLICENT SIMON

FASHION ASSISTANT RAPHAELLE HELMORE ASSOCIATE EDITOR LUCIA VAN DER POST CONTRIBUTING EDITORS VIVIENNE BECKER, SIMON DE BURTON, NICK FOULKES, ALICE LASCELLES, JONATHAN MARGOLIS, MARIA SHOLLENBARGER US CORRESPONDENT CHRISTINA OHLY EVANS PUBLISHING MANAGER JO THOMPSON PRODUCTION DENISE MACKLIN ADVERTISING PRODUCTION DANIEL MACKLIN

LUXURY R E A DS

12 TALES OF WANDER Walking the world’s

most dramatic landscapes has therapeutic qualities way beyond the physical, says Charlotte Sinclair – particularly when combined with some soothing and sybaritic accommodation

32 POLKA HOT Damian Foxe

showcases new season fashion that’s dotty for spots

46 HOME SWEET MONOCHROME

Nicole Swengley checks out the designers taking classic black and white

QLED_TV_FT-HOW_TO_SPEND_IT_AD_OUTLINE_280x350.indd 1 19/07/2017 16:21

howtospendit.com

Miyake kimono coat, from

£995 Gravlax with mustard and dill sauce, served at Aquavit The island of Nantucket, off the coast of Cape Cod, Massachusetts Rosenius’s Meissen teapot

the-refinery.com) Stannard & Slingsby, 211-213 Kensington High St, London W8 (020-7937 0333; stannardandslingsby.com).

com for its Modern Art + Design auctions, where I find interesting pieces of Swedish and Finnish glass Dukes-auctions.com is

a recent find – I’ve yet to buy something but always see interesting porcelain and furniture I use Galet.com to buy their shoes; they are not easy to find in London

AS TOLD TO BEATRICE AIDIN

11

If I didn’t live in London,

Stockholm It is spread across 14 islands, so lends itself to walking

I like to eat breakfast

at Sturekatten, where the interiors haven’t changed since the 1920s, and stroll past the Royal Palace; it’s very imposing and has more than 600 rooms I buy shoes

at Sneakersnstuff, which has a huge selection, and visit Svenskt Tenn for the most fabulous furniture and fabrics by Josef Frank For summer drinks, I go to Mälarpaviljongen, a café/bar with a view

of the most amazing gardens created by

my friend Kristina Björk And for dining

footwear My shoe cupboard is like a

Tardis; I have no idea how many pairs I

have Recently one of the racks actually

collapsed I’m having some leopard-print

loafers made at the moment by Belgian

Shoes in New York – they’re bespoke; you

can bring your own material – and I am

obsessing about them arriving Price on

request; belgianshoes.com.

1920s double-sided screen, with a French

version of chinoiserie on one side and

beautiful orange and grey flowers on the

other I found it at Jubilee Hall Antiques

& Interiors, in the Cotswolds Oak St,

Lechlade, Gloucestershire GL7 3AY

(01367-253 777; jubileehall.co.uk).

19th-century Chinese rice-paper

paintings from Durham House Antiques

to add to my collection I love the detail,

and it fascinates me that the colours are

still so vibrant centuries later 48 Sheep St,

Stow-on-the-Wold, Gloucestershire GL54

1AA (01451-870 404; durhamhousegb.com).

The last item of clothing I added to my

coat [pictured] based on a print by the

artist Katsushika Hokusai In March, I

was in Tokyo having lunch with a friend

who used to work for Miyake We went to

the store, I saw this coat and I thought,

“Well, this is completely impractical.” But

I put it on and had to have it – I blame

my friend From £995; isseymiyake.com.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the

went for the Daffodil Festival in April

Everyone dresses in yellow for the parade

and the whole island is covered with

flowers It’s beautiful We stayed at Jared

Coffin House – it’s a small, traditional

hotel and almost like being in someone’s

home The interior is very classic, with a

19th-century feel 29 Broad St, Nantucket,

MA 02554 (+1508-228 2400;

jaredcoffinhouse.com).

And the best souvenir I’ve

teapot [pictured] I found

at the factory shop near

Dresden It is decorated in

the “blue onion” pattern

and is a most extraordinary

bulbous shape meissen.com.

interior references midcentury Swedish

design, with high ceilings that make it

feel incredibly spacious I ate smoked eel

with root vegetables, beef Rydberg and

rosehip soup for dessert St James’s

Market, 1 Carlton St, London SW1

starred chef Björn Frantzén The Flying

Elk, Mälartorget 15 (theflyingelk.se)

Mälarpaviljongen, Norr Mälarstrand 64 (malarpaviljongen.se) Sneakersnstuff, Åsögatan 124 (sneakersnstuff.com)

Sturekatten, Riddargatan 4 (sturekatten.se)

Svenskt Tenn, Strandvägen 5 (svenskttenn.se).

Joelene at The Refinery for manicures and pedicures, because she spends just enough time on my nails, and Ciaran at Stannard

& Slingsby who cuts my hair once a month – he knows how to maintain my style and

keeps the conversation light The Refinery,

18 Grosvenor St, London W1 (020-7409 2001;

the aesthete

“ I put the Issey Miyake kimono coat on and had to have it”

Artistic director of Asprey Hakan Rosenius

leads the company’s product design and curates its fine and rare books department

FOR MORE OF HAKAN ROSENIUS’S PERSONAL

TASTE, VISIT HOWTOSPENDIT.COM

12 howtospendit.com

13howtospendit.com

Main picture: dramatic clifftop monasteries are a star feature of walks in Metéora, Greece

Inset: hiking through the wilderness of nearby Vikos Gorge

Four hours into my hike into the base of

northern Greece’s Vikos Gorge, and a herd of grey, belligerent-looking clouds has massed overhead, blocking out the sun In an instant, the rock face turns black, a lunatic wind sends the trees into

a frenzy of whipping branches, and rain begins to fall in dense, dark columns As my guide Apostolis Demertzis and I rush into our waterproof jackets, thunder cracks across the sky (Moments earlier we’d passed a stone tribute to a beloved wife, felled by lightning in this forest some years ago A fact I put firmly to the back of my mind.)

We continue walking through a dripping tunnel of trees, the rain soaking every layer of clothing, because…

well, why not? It’s epic and wild and fun – the great

outdoors in riot (Also, Demertzis assures me, we’re too low for the lightning to find us Considering this is a man who has mapped 19,000km of trails in Greece,

I trust his judgment.) Following the drenched footpath

is like entering the heart of an emerald, every shade

of green refracting crazily in the wind and water, from the moss-covered boulders studding the sloping undergrowth to the vivid hues of plane, fig and beech leaves Down here, several hours from civilisation, it’s easy to imagine the spectacle as the work of an angry god: Zeus having a tantrum

Vikos Gorge (pictured above right), 12km long and 1,200m deep, is the work of 160 million years of geology

From its heights spread the undulating peaks of the Pindos mountain range, straddling this northwest region

of Epirus into neighbouring Albania, its tail eventually crumbling into the Peloponnese The canyon slices through a pristine terrain of oak forests, rivers, gulches, alpine lakes and 46 hill villages that together comprise the Zagori region Part of the Northern Pindos National Park, the area boasts Unesco Geopark status, its environmental purity preserved in part by its remoteness

You can drink straight from the Voidomatis River that twists through the gorge – the water cool and hard as marble – and thriving populations of wolves, wild boar, golden eagles and bears inhabit the area Ways of life are also preserved by remoteness here: on the drive up to the village of Monodendri, marking the gorge trailhead,

I spot a shepherd wielding a wooden staff, directing his flock of longhaired goats up the slopes, an image so archaic it might be a daguerreotype come to life

Earlier in the day, with the sun shining, Demertzis declared: “All this nature is for you!” and swept his arms

to encompass the towering limestone corridor and the dry riverbed It’s hard not to believe I have been gifted the place – especially as we encounter only a single fellow hiker all day There’s nothing but the sound of birdsong and weather The secrets of the landscape are revealed with each step, the scenery changing hour by hour as the gully drops and narrows At this speed, there’s time to study, at a crouch, the tiny butterflies decorating the lacy flowers of a stand of wild carrot, or

to pause in the church dim of an overhanging rock

Hiking is a slow study of a particular geography, like

a conversation that unfolds over several hours Walking

in nature is especially soothing to a city brain, frazzled by

howtospendit.com

14

concrete and adrenaline

“There’s no news down here,

no economic crisis You can

escape the world,” says

Demertzis “Hiking is the only

way to understand a place.”

He’s perhaps more on the

money than he realises,

because walking is the new

frontier of experiential travel

Or rather, the old frontier

No motorised transport,

no rush, no phone signal,

travelling at the speed of your

own two feet – a journey of

the most personal kind

Tour operator Original

Travel, which has organised

this trip for me, has seen a surge of interest in walking

journeys “We invented the Big Short Break, which was

all about getting as much done in the shortest time,”

co-founder Tom Barber tells me “Now we’re talking about

the opposite People want to slow down and connect with

nature, and there’s no better way to do that than walking.”

The benefits are psychological as much as physical The

classical notion of solvitur ambulando, or problem solving

via perambulation, was famously championed by Henry

David Thoreau, Bruce Chatwin and Patrick Leigh Fermor

(the latter did some ambulando here in Epirus) One’s

thoughts take an equally far-reaching journey on a long

walk, the brain entering the territory of impetus thinking:

grand plans are formed over large distances (It was

rambling in Snowdonia that apparently prompted Theresa

May’s ill-fated decision to hold a general election.)

Suitable for all ages and fitness levels, it is a very

democratic means to adventure In the Nepalese

Himalayas, a few years ago, I trekked the Annapurna

Circuit (pictured top) over three weeks with my

then-65-year-old father, who zipped up the high-altitude trails

with far more vim than did his breathless daughter

As the days passed, the route inexorably ascending,

the walking assumed a quasi-spiritual quality: the sweet

spot between torture and the sublime (Although this

could equally be credited to a lack of oxygen.)

To walk in the knowledge of comfortable beds, good

food and a hot bath waiting at the end of the trail is, for

most of us, probably something closer to the sublime In

Epirus I am staying at Aristi Mountain Resort + Villas,

a rustic hotel with welcoming fireplaces, delicious meals

of grilled chicken and tzatziki, charming country service and a tucked-away spa in which to soothe aching limbs

Elsewhere, the digs are not just comfortable but world class, as high-end hotels catch on to ambulatory pleasures, pitching walking as a fresh way for guests to engage with location, as well as a therapeutic extra to conventional hotel spa services At Amanemu (pictured above), Aman’s newest property in Japan, guests can embark upon a four-hour ramble into the Kii mountain range, visiting sacred sites along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route Wellbeing and environmental consciousness are cornerstones of Six Senses’ hotels and resorts, so when the group opens five satellite lodges in Bhutan at the beginning of 2018, hiking promises to be a key attraction: each outpost will boast a signature trek led by experts on wildlife, geology and the country’s history and culture One such outing involves a trek up to Talakha Monastery, through fragrant forests of blue pine and rhododendrons

In Europe, debuting this summer at Sibuet group’s new Terminal Neige hotel in Chamonix, intrepid guests can join a mountaineer for a trek across the Mer de Glace glacier (pictured overleaf), with a panorama of Alpine summits Down in Italy, at Monastero Santa Rosa (pictured overleaf) on the Amalfi Coast, adventurous types are guided on several iconic walks, including the Path of the Gods, the spectacular sea-and-sky route inscribing the hills far above Positano, and the Valle delle

Ferriere trail, passing hidden monasteries, waterfalls and abandoned mills on the way into the lush mountain interior of the Lattari range Antonio Sersale, the owner

of Le Sirenuse in Positano, grew up exploring these byways “The tremendous effort needed at the beginning

of the walk, which is always upwards, brings the reward

of a mesmerising view of the endless blue sea – and the aroma of rosemary and summer,” he says

In some places, explorations on foot assume a sense

of mission For Jamshyd Sethna, chairman and MD of Shakti Himalaya, walking is a fundamental aspect of his enchanting village houses in Ladakh (example pictured overleaf) and northern India “The slow pace, the lazy, gentle interactions with village folk one invariably encounters, the pleasure one experiences from the feeling of immersion in one’s surroundings in a non-intrusive way… all in the shadow of great mountains and

in landscapes of immense beauty It has a restorative quality.” Capitalising on this therapeutic aspect, Shakti recently launched the Head in the Clouds programme

Inner journeys are prioritised via silent walks led by yoga and mindfulness gurus, and, in Ladakh, a 3km hike to mountain caves chaperoned by a monk, imparting a unique insight into the region’s spiritual life

The right company can make a merely good walk extraordinary Last year, I visited Explora Valle Sagrado, the impressive new hotel in Peru’s Sacred Valley (pictured above), and Explora’s first outside Chile The company is known for the quality and scope of its wilderness expeditions – and the immense comfort of its hotels Here it is intent on offering guests a complete engagement with nature via daily walks of scaled

“ People want to slow down and connect with

nature, and there’s no better way than walking”

Annapurna Circuit consists of tranquil high-altitude trails

in the Nepalese Himalayas

Guests at Explora Valle Sagrado hotel, Peru, visit the Inca archaeological site of Moray Relaxing rooms await after a Kii mountain ramble at Amanemu – Aman’s new Japanese property

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difficulty I hiked to high-altitude lakes with a Quechua

guide whose discussions of local culture and beliefs

brought vivid colour to an already exalted experience

But walking is not only about the wilds; cities are

inimitably suited to exploration on foot In London,

SideStory, which launched in 2015, is shaking up the

fusty image of the walking tour, offering innovative,

expert-led pedestrian itineraries, including a guide to

London’s brutalist architecture with Trellick Tower-based

artist Charlie Warde At Belmond Villa San Michele,

Florence’s Renaissance art circuit is given a welcome jolt

of irreverent energy by way of new graffiti tours of the

city with practising street artists: guests are led through

Florence’s less-visited urban spaces and alleyways to see

Botticelli’s Venus in a scuba mask In Naples, Italian

specialist Bellini Travel works exclusively with tour outfit

Looking for Lila: using the Elena Ferrante Neapolitan

novels as inspiration, writer and documentarian Sophia

Seymour escorts her charges through the neighbourhoods

depicted in Ferrante’s writings, the books – and the walk

– framing a unique insight into Naples’ food, architecture,

art, politics and Mafia culture Meanwhile, in New York,

where exercise is next to godliness, Viceroy Central Park

has teamed up with Fit Tours NYC to offer sunrise yoga

walks, combining brisk ambles with restorative yoga

poses and stretches in the city’s green heart

Back in Vikos Gorge, and soaked to the bone, I follow

Demertzis down to a tiny 16th-century monastery, set

in a clearing of wildflowers He gestures for me to

scramble down the meadow’s edge, to a spot where,

beneath drooping plane trees, the river has formed deep

rockpools Mist scuds along their surface, the water

glowing an otherworldly aquamarine “This place is like

ocean, you learn to swim; if you grow up here, you learn to climb.” He points to a vaulted rock like a cathedral roof cresting the highest summit in sight

“That was our initiation as teenagers We had to climb

up there No equipment It was terrifying,” he grins

As we walk, slowly and thoughtfully, to a retreat contoured into the cliff base, Litaris gestures to a monk sitting on an upper balcony Swathed in black robes and hat, with a long, grey beard, he looks as antique and weathered as the rock above We slip away along the trail without disturbing his peace ✦

STAR TREKS Charlotte Sinclair travelled as a guest of Original Travel (020-7978

7333; originaltravel.co.uk), which offers five-day trips to Zagori and Metéora, from £930 per person, including two nights at Aristi Mountain Resort + Villas (+302653-041 330; aristi.eu), two nights at Divani Meteora Hotel (+302432-023 330; divanimeteorahotel.com), guided

walks in Vikos Gorge and Metéora, flights and transfers Amanemu,

+81599-525 000; amanemu.com; rooms from £951; full-day guided hike in the Kumano Kodo, including transport, from £780 for two

Belmond Villa San Michele, 0845-077 2222; belmond.com; from

€890 per person; street-art tour, €100 per hour Explora Valle

Sagrado, 0800-086 9054; explora.com; from $1,391 per person

for two-night programme, including accommodation, all food and

drink, guided excursions, treks and transfers Looking for Lila,

+393-8984 63510; lookingforlila.com; price on request, for a maximum of

four, including lunch Monastero Santa Rosa, +39089-832 1199;

monasterosantarosa.com; from €2,490 for two for Health & Hike programme, including three nights’ accommodation, a guided hike,

spa treatments and cookery classes Shakti Himalaya, 020-3151 5177;

shaktihimalaya.com; from £5,892 per person for eight-day Head in the Clouds journey, including village-house accommodation, all food and drink, all activities, guide, chef, support guide, porters, car at disposal and airport transfers; meditation and yoga teacher from £260 per

night SideStory, 020-3432 8187; sidestory.co, three-hour Being Brutalist tour from £300 per one or two guests Six Senses Bhutan, +662-631 9777; sixsenses.com, prices yet to be set Terminal Neige –

Refuge du Montenvers, +334-5090 6320; refuge.terminal-neige.com;

rooms from €150; full-day Mer de Glace excursion, €210 per person

Viceroy Central Park, +1212-830 8000; viceroyhotelsandresorts.com;

from £316 per night for two for two-night Wellness Weekend Package, including accommodation, meditation session from Mndfl and one Fit Tours NYC tour (a 5K run, Central Park Core Tour or Sunrise Yoga).

a fairytale,” says Demertzis The same could be said of Metéora (pictured on opening pages) From the plains of Thessaly rise extraordinary monolithic towers of sculpted sandstone, pinnacles carved with caves and gullies, into whose couloirs and high plinths monasteries have been built These buildings possess all the precariousness and impossible beauty of birds’ nests: cloisters in the sky

For the Orthodox Church, Metéora is a sacred spot second only to Mount Athos in significance Monks have inhabited caves here since the 9th century, with the first bricks-and-mortar monastery built in the 14th century

Aided by agile members of the local populace, dubbed

“rock riders”, the monks completed the constructions over decades by means of rudimentary climbing equipment, ladders and winches Today’s climbers – bags

of chalk hanging from carabiners at their waistbands like sporty sporrans – can be spotted in Kalambaka, the town

of scruffy charm that skirts Metéora’s base

Six monasteries remain of the 41 monasteries and hermit caves that once existed here, but despite the romance of their eyries, the monk population is dwindling

A contributing factor is surely Metéora’s status as a premier tourist destination Indeed, a guide informs me, these monasteries receive upwards of 3,000 tourists a day in high season, which is hardly conducive to the withdrawal from life the monks seek Nevertheless, the place retains its magic One morning, I ascend ancient shepherds’ trails through groves of ash and beech to a flat promontory where I sit and admire a deserted monastery pressed into the vertical cliff face, as if conjured there by willpower alone: an act of faith as much as of canny engineering

My guide that day, Dimitri Litaris, has a uniquely local perspective on the rocks: “If you grow up next to the

I hiked to high-altitude lakes with a Quechua guide whose

discussions of local culture and beliefs added vivid colour

Terminal Neige – Refuge du Montenvers hotel in Chamonix can join a mountaineer for

a glacier trek One of Shakti Himalaya’s private village houses, overlooking the Indus River in Ladakh, India

Monastero Santa Rosa is the starting point for dramatic walks on the Amalfi Coast

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY GEORGE ONG

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THE SHARPENER

trooping the collar

Another (£725), in sky blue embroidered with tigers, looks striking with white shorts The breezy cotton poplin shirts(£505, pictured above centre) with generously cut short sleeves at Prada showcase the work of fashion illustrator Liselotte Watkins, rendered with obvious brushstroke marks, solid-colour panels and abstracted still-life compositions

They’re bohemian, yet easy to wear with a light linen trouser (or again, with shorts)

By comparison, Private White VC’s camp-collar shirts are utilitarian affairs, conceived to be worn untucked and with pockets placed just above the hem

Designer Nick Ashley swears by this shirt – and personally channels Sean Connery

as Bond circa Thunderball when he wears

the midnight-blue cotton version (£275)

Sand-coloured, it has more of a adventure feel, while “for a bit of fun” he also does striped silk versions (£375)

desert-“This shirt hasn’t really been popular since the 1950s, but it’s back, and I love it,” says Ashley “A camp collar frames the face so well, plus it can turn a tailored outfit into a very smart casual look.”

For further counsel on the art of wearing camp collars, I conferred with 1980s model-stylist-musician Christos Tolera, a master in 1950s styling: “I love them because they’re so totally summer

I’ve yet to tire of seeing a camp-collar shirt; there’s something so chic about that tiny bit of asymmetry.” Among Tolera’s camp-collar-shirt advice: wear ironed with high-waisted trousers and untucked

howtospendit.com

are unusual one-piece constructions and have an exaggerated scale, but they work with everything from jeans to suits and sports coats,” creative director John Vizzone tells me

Albam’s cotton camp-collar Panama shirts (£99) also have a strong 1950s feel, with navy, black, white or burgundy versions that look good under (and over) lighter tailoring or blousons, through

to masculine checks (£99) and discreet florals (£139) Those at Caruso have subtle patterns in jacquard-effect cotton jersey (£300) in pinky red, and a fine-stripe jersey (£300, pictured far right)

in red and white, while more pointed plain white or grey ones (£240) exude 1950s attitude There are also vintage accents at Camoshita, whose Japanese washed-chambray-denim camp-collar shirts (£295) have long sleeves, a pocket and a slim fit, as does an Oxford cotton version (£270); both work brilliantly under a navy blazer

Turnbull & Asser’s pyjama-style take

on camp collars includes a cotton shirt (£165) in a blue jigsaw print and another (£165, pictured bottom left) in denim, while Orlebar Brown does a spry frond-print (£175, pictured top

right), as well as a dapper charcoal shirt (£145)

The American-based heritage shirt brand Gitman Vintage has gone for vibrant hibiscus

collars are about to

be a Thing I’ve been into them for a while, for their power to transpose tailored looks into nonchalant leisure territory – they’re perfect for

when I want to wear a smart jacket,

without channelling anything remotely

workaday The camp collar is all about

ease while still communicating a certain

aplomb – something that’s just as true

when it’s worn sans jacket And although

long beloved by particular style merchants,

camp collars happen to be an especially

of-the-moment summer style statement

Camp collars are inherently a 1950s

throwback Think back to Elvis and

Chuck Berry, but also Jack Kerouac and

Gregory Peck, and nowhere does their

appeal manifest more fully than at

Parisian tailoring brand Cifonelli, which

has them in classic slubby cotton/linen

(€400, pictured below right) in soft

neutrals, white and a couple of cheeky

pastels; there is even a piqué camp hybrid

collar shirt (€350) with a button-down

option Conventional camp collars sit flat

and are intended to be worn spread open,

but Cifonelli’s are cut swept back “Ours

A perfect example of laid-back tailoring, the camp-collar shirt

is where the smart man’s money should be, says Tom Stubbs

denim cotton shirt, £165

Gitman Vintage cotton shirt,

£175 at Mr Porter Cifonelli cotton/linen shirt, €400

flowers and gorgeous foliage prints (example pictured below second left,

£175, exclusive to Mr Porter), ranging from indigo-on-black to more full-on colour combinations Valentino, too, goes with foliage, featuring abstract leaf patterns: one line-drawn palm-leaf print shirt (£690) is so refined

it looks like it was etched;

another, more akin to a lightweight jacket (£690 at Browns, pictured top left), has graphic palm designs

More high-vis impact comes from Wooyoungmi, whose stretch-satin shirt (£310)

is taken from a design

by Sol LeWitt’s Loopy

Doopy artwork

and resembles a psychedelic woodcut

in orange and grey

Interpretations of Japanese print styles caught the eye instead at Gucci, where a red/white

“sea storm” printed viscose camp-collar shirt (£450) and a cobalt/orange tiger-print silk shirt (£795) were equally spectacular

Think back to Elvis and

Chuck Berry, but also Jack

Kerouac and Gregory Peck

23

if the trousers are narrow

But hard and fast rules are few, and the opportunities this season many: and with such excellent styles

in my sights, I plan to carry on camping ✦

CAMP FOLLOWERS Albam, 23 Beak St,

London W1 (020-3157 7000;

albamclothing.com) Browns,

23-27 South Molton St, London W1 (020-3750 1241;

brownsfashion.com)

Camoshita, see Mr Porter

Caruso, carusomenswear.com

and see Trunk Clothiers Cifonelli,

83 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré,

75008 Paris (+339-6709 5034;

cifonelli.com) Gitman Vintage, see

Mr Porter Gucci, 34 Old Bond St,

London W1 (020-7629 2716; gucci.com)

Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, London SW1

(020-7730 1234; harrods.com) Mr Porter, mrporter.com Orlebar Brown, Jubilee Place,

London E1 (020-7513 1157; orlebarbrown.com)

Prada, 16-18 Old Bond St, London W1 (020-7647

5000; prada.com) Private White VC, 73 Duke St,

London W1 (020-7629 9918; privatewhitevc.com)

Trunk Clothiers, 8 Chiltern St, London W1

(020-7486 2357; trunkclothiers.com) Turnbull &

Asser, 71-72 Jermyn St, London SW1 (020-7808

3000; turnbullandasser.co.uk) Valentino, 39 Old

Bond St, London W1 (020-7647 2520; valentino.

com) and see Browns Wooyoungmi,

wooyoungmi.com and see Harrods.

howtospendit.com

l I’ve been a Stone Island fan since

the late Eighties for its high level of pioneering fabric technology and exacting finishes, coupled with an intrinsic grasp of savvy-looking street gear Its new Ghost line is all about sleek pieces cast in one colour but produced in multiple materials (even down to the iconic button on/off badges) Component panels are laminated before assembly, then overlapped to improve breathability and waterproofing The Tank Shield hood jacket (£1,095) in opaque polyester/

cotton is a showstopper, while a stretch, garment-dyed cotton fleece crew (£200) and an olive panelled wool zip-top cardigan (£475, pictured left) are low-key yet high-tech to the touch A trench coat (£1,095) in olive or black has been created using multi-layer membrane fusion technology to make it super- weatherproof yet equally light Those who prefer zero branding can simply button off the Ghost badge.

79 Brewer St, London W1 (020-7287 7734; stoneisland.co.uk).

l Joe Woolfe has sartorial form: for more than a decade working at Spencer Hart (and then as a stylist for cloth manufacturer Scabal) he’s been turning out

celebrities in natty evening ensembles, with

a clientele that includes Harry Connick Jr, Benedict Cumberbatch and Robbie Williams Now he and Johan Labassa have their own concept store in London’s

Fitzrovia, called Labassa Woolfe Here,

he offers suiting (£1,750, some made from Scabal weaves) and other formalwear

Suits range from business rigs in cashmere wool (£1,750) to red-carpet affairs in silk-herringbone (£2,200, pictured right) They are displayed amid

an opulent assemblage of antique furniture, ornaments and artworks – and everything is for sale, including vintage cufflinks and tie pins Woolfe’s aesthetic may have a certain showbiz pizzazz, but the store’s plush aesthetic and vintage finds are deftly contained.

6 Percy St, London W1 (020-3205 0111;

labassawoolfe.com).

l Launched a year ago, the Tod’s

in-store MyGommino driving-car-shoe service has just become available online; and it’s awfully good fun I intended to create an understated suede loafer (from £385 through to

design-your-own-£4,500 for alligator skin; prices are 20 per cent above retail ones depending on the shoe skin and other options) – and logged out having ordered a bling-ing white nappa-leather affair, resplendent with Tod’s gold “Clamp” buckle Apart from the colour of the pebble sole, top stitching and lining, there are multiple choices of material hardware and even the position of initialing

Styles range from a classic loafer (pictured above) to the new Gommino Double T-bar or Gommino Clamp styles of shoe Delivery takes just four to six weeks.

2-5 Old Bond St, London W1 (020-7493 2237; tods.com).

Clockwise from far left:

Valentino cotton jacket,

£690 at Browns Prada cotton poplin shirt, £505

Orlebar Brown cotton shirt,

£175 Caruso cotton jersey jacquard shirt, £300

HTSI_400_Boodles.indd 1 31/05/2017 09:37

with turtles on an environment-focused family expedition to the Galápagos with National Geographic Global Explorers

Terminus is set in

an 18th-century building renovated by architects Claesson Koivisto Rune

✈ When fashion creative directors Daria Reina and Andrea Ferolla launched Chez Dédé, their gloriously chic concept store in the Regola district of historic ROME , it was an instant sensation – enough to catch the eye of Lorenzo Lisi, the owner of perennially packed seafood institution Pierluigi on the Piazza de’ Ricci, just a stone’s throw away He enlisted Reina and Ferolla’s talents, as a stylist and fashion illustrator respectively, in the creation of Hotel De’ Ricci

(hoteldericci.com; from €350), an eight-suite palazzo on a narrow lane just off Via Giulia, with

just about every piece of furniture, art and textile – including the handpainted wallpaper – the

work of team Chez Dédé The killer cocktail bar and 1,500-bottle cellar, however, are Lisi’s doing: this little gem is serious about its wine, with a general manager who’s a seasoned sommelier and customised selections waiting in your suite upon check-in.

✈ Bergen is NORWAY ’s unsung coastal charmer, a big/little town

on a spectacularly scenic fjord that punches above its weight on the lifestyle front, with wine bars, directional restaurants and some nice cultural venues – almost everything, it seemed until recently, except a truly luxe independent hotel Enter Villa Terminus

(villaterminus.no; from £160), a lovely new sister property to the

venerable Grand Hotel Terminus and part of the local De Bergenske group The talents of preeminent Nordic architects Claesson

Koivisto Rune were enlisted to breathe life into the splendid 18th-century building, whose 18 rooms are all unique – some tucked into the steeply pitched attic eaves, others with soaring mullioned windows and original cornicing Bonus: the

property can be taken over in its entirety, providing a private villa experience that’s probably unmatched in this city.

✈ In the pantheon of adventure travel pioneers, Lars-Eric Lindblad is a name writ large He founded Lindblad Travel in 1958, and was among the first to open up the majesty and mysteries of the wilderness to the intrepid These days, his son Sven runs

an offshoot of the company called Lindblad Expeditions – an all-cruise, luxury-

adrenaline outfit – and this summer it celebrates the first citizen expedition to

howtospendit.com

travelista

Wander woman Maria Shollenbarger

fast-tracks international intelligence

on where to be and what to see

in Rome was styled

by the creators of

über-chic concept

store Chez Dédé

by launching National Geographic Global Explorers

(expeditions.com; from

$6,960 per adult for a 10-day itinerary) – a portfolio of environment-focused family expeditions, on its two ships based on those islands The remit: to foster the next generation of wilderness enthusiasts and conservationists The content: serious stuff for kids and adults alike, from fieldwork sessions (run by certified NatGeo field educators) to documentary video training to earning one’s junior Zodiac “driving licence”.

✈ The northernmost reaches of Cap Corse in CORSICA are an escapist’s dream of rugged, hilly terrain and clear aquamarine seas Domaine de Misincu (phoenixhotelcollection.com; from

€280) in the tiny coastal commune of Cagnano is a welcome new

way to capitalise on its charms Its 29 rooms and suites and handful of villas aim, in both design and experience, to bring the pristine Cap Corse outdoors in: the chef, who has logged stints with Hélène Darroze in London and at the French Riviera’s La Réserve de Beaulieu, looks locally for everything from honey (from the onsite apiary) to cheese (there’s a small dairy too) to the now requisite organic vegetable garden Among Misincu’s other USPs:

daily outdoor Pilates, a sprawling spa and extensive hiking trails

✈ It is CAMBRIDGE ’s oldest hotel, now set once again to be its grandest after an ambitious £80m renovation overseen by architect John Simpson – whose portfolio includes restoration projects on both Buckingham and Kensington palaces – and interior designer Martin Brudnizki The 192 rooms and suites at the University Arms (universityarms.com; from £205)

leverage the 1834 building’s classical bones, soaring ceilings, wide windows and postcard vistas over Parker’s Piece – all made vibrantly new thanks to Brudnizki’s bold but unerring way with colour and materials (think of Scott’s, The Ivy and Soho Beach House)

✈ Alex Walker’s way-off-the-grid flycamping safaris across EAST AFRICA have earned him a

reputation as one of the most thoughtful and astute ambassadors of the bush – a purveyor of places and moments of immense silence and beauty in equal measure This summer sees his outfit, Alex Walker’s Serian (serian.com; two-day fly safaris, from £870),

taking its estimable game into previously inaccessible parts of northern TANZANIA ’s Serengeti National Park – areas hitherto set aside primarily for rhino breeding Following the same general shape and intents as his “Route to the Sole” itineraries, days are spent walking in contemplation of nature, in the often total absence of human civilisation This

is the unadulterated bush at its rawest and best ✦

howtospendit.com

26

Serian takes its

of the Cap Corse

HTSI_402_Lunajet.indd 1 13/07/2017 14:43

Gold Bar Pendants, Reversible Lock Bracelets, Shamballa Non-Braided Bracelet, Star Of Shamballa Cuff, Meucci Ring, Shamballa Necklace G/Vs Diamonds, Black Diamonds, Emeralds, Yellow Sapphires, Brown Sapphires, Ebony, 18K Yellow Gold, 18K Black Rhodinated Gold

Find your nearest retailer at shamballajewels.com | Follow us on Instagram @shamballajewels

explore the energy of creation

Gold Bar Pendants, Reversible Lock Bracelets, Shamballa Non-Braided Bracelet, Star Of Shamballa Cuff, Meucci Ring, Shamballa Necklace G/Vs Diamonds, Black Diamonds, Emeralds, Yellow Sapphires, Brown Sapphires, Ebony, 18K Yellow Gold, 18K Black Rhodinated Gold

Find your nearest retailer at shamballajewels.com | Follow us on Instagram @shamballajewels

explore the energy of creation

Colour-drenched, Indian-made jewels

Modern Moghul’s designs shift between the organic and architectural

At first glance, the colourful designs of Modern Moghul jewellery don’t scream

“architecture” But the line is designed by an architect, Bibiana Dykema, who started the online brand as a side project six years ago Its eye-catching pieces, all made in India, include the crescent-shaped Vishaka necklace ($5,800, pictured right) set with dozens of different-shaped blue sapphires “People say my pieces are either very organic or very architectural,” says Dykema The architectural side

is seen in the Divya ring ($1,700), a cleverly designed cage of pavé diamonds surrounding a band of pavé amethysts, while the tear-shaped Paksa earrings ($3,800) with faceted emeralds lean towards the organic RIMA SUQI

To read more, click Women’s Jewellery on Howtospendit.com

An excellent e-source for vintage watches

The Keystone has covetable classic timepieces for him and her

As well as super-rare vintage watches from a range of brands and decades, e-store

The Keystone offers some of horology’s “greatest hits” Men’s Rolexes and Patek

Philippes are well represented: a 1977 Rolex Submariner ($11,000) – the line that

James Bond helped make famous – comes in a classic black dial on steel, while

the Pateks include an unusual Calatrava ($35,000) from 1971 with a champagne dial

An Audemars Piguet late-1970s “First Series” Royal Oak ($45,000, pictured above)

in gold will likely be snapped up swiftly MING LIU

For more tempting timepieces, click Watches & Jewellery on Howtospendit.com

Nobu Hotels arrives in Ibiza

Its signature restaurant offers a Balearic twist on Nobu’s fusion cuisine

Should any doubts still linger over Ibiza’s status as a luxury destination with serious clout, confirmation comes in the form of Nobu Hotel Ibiza Bay With two seafront pools, the island’s first Six Senses Spa and four restaurants – including Nobu Matsuhisa’s Peruvian/Japanese fusion (with special Ibiza-inspired creations) – it is open

until October 15, and then each May through to October The rooms and suites (from €490, pictured right) have floor-to-ceiling windows and take their design cue from the island’s colour palette NICOLA CORFIELD

For more extraordinary escapes, click Unforgettable Experiences

on Howtospendit.com

e-dit the

Margaret Kemp

on the Languedoc estate offering raw food retreats this autumn

To read more, click Health & Fitness on Howtospendit.com

Unlike at most French châteaux, there is not a drop

of wine at Château

de Montjoie, which hosts vegan retreats where meals are washed down with fruit juices and mineral waters

Charming bespoke shepherds’ huts

Plankbridge’s Dorset-made boltholes can be custom-fitted

It was a shepherd’s hut near Thomas Hardy’s Dorset cottage that inspired Richard Lee and Jane Dennison to begin building custom versions “Capturing the spirit of Victorian makers, we stick to the original dimensions of the huts, but incorporate bespoke modern interiors,” says Lee Plankbridge huts (from £16,500, example pictured above) are now being put to use as offices, living rooms, saunas and guest rooms, and clients include Highgrove, which commissioned one for Prince George’s first birthday CHRISTINA OHLY EVANS

For more brilliant bespoke ideas, visit Howtospendit.com/bespoke

John Booth’s limited edition line is

a collaboration with Globe-Trotter

He is one of this year’s more collectable artists, creating multicoloured modernist vases and working with Fendi and John Galliano

Now John Booth is turning his hand

to travel accessories (pictured left) in collaboration with Globe-Trotter The range includes a passport holder (£105), purse (from £160)

and card holder (£160), all made from leather and printed

with Booth’s jaunty designs, with flourishes of primary

colours set against vibrant backgrounds JEMIMA SISSONS

For more divine finds, click Things to Love on

Howtospendit.com

YOUR BEST DECISION TO DATE

32 howtospendit.com

This page: Vivienne Westwood archive silk dress, made to order

AGL calfskin and cashmere shoes, about £300 Opposite page: Andrew Gn silk crepe blouse, £1,430, silk crepe skirt, £1,220, and pearl earrings, price on request Charlotte Olympia satin/suede heels, £1,175

Perrin goatskin and silver

La Croisière clutch, £1,850

howtospendit.com

polka hot

New season fashion goes dotty for spots

Photography by Damian Foxe.

Styling by Millicent Simon

howtospendit.com

Dior polyamide J’adior

dress, £8,300 Blugirl

plumetis top, about £240,

and leather and pearl

boots, about £1,015

Markus Lupfer cotton

Planet Alex T-shirt, £95