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GARMENT PRODUCTION Garment manufacturing includes number of processes from order receiving to dispatching shipment of the finished garments.. To be noted that a process flow chart made f

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UNIT 1 INTRODUCTION ABOUT GARMENT PRODUCTION ORDER 2

1.1 GARMENT PRODUCTION 2

1.2 ORDER FOR GARMENT PRODUCTION 5

1.2 ORDER FOR GARMENT PRODUCTION 6

1.2 ORDER FOR GARMENT PRODUCTION 7

Unit 2 GARMENT PRODUCT: SHIRT 10

2.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR SHIRT PRODUCTION 10

2.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR SHIRT PRODUCTION 15

2.3 DETAIL ORDER FOR SHIRT PRODUCTION

15

Unit 3 GARMENT PRODUCT: PANTS 16

3.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR PANTS PRODUCTION 16

3.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR PANTS PRODUCTION 17

3.3 DETAIL ORDER FOR PANTS PRODUCTION 19

Unit 4 GARMENT PRODUCT: JEANS 20

4.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR JEANS PRODUCTION 20

4.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR JEANS PRODUCTION 22

4.3 DETAIL ORDER FOR JEANS PRODUCTION 23

REVISION A 24

Unit 5 GARMENT PRODUCT: JACKET 25

5.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR JACKET PRODUCTION 25

5.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR JACKET PRODUCTION 31

5.3 DETAIL ORDER FOR JACKET PRODUCTION 31

Unit 6 GARMENT PRODUCT: SKIRT 32

6.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR SKIRT PRODUCTION 32

6.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR SKIRT PRODUCTION 32

6.3 DETAIL ORDER FOR SKIRT PRODUCTION 35

Unit 7 GARMENT PRODUCT: KNITTED WEAR 36

7.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR KNITTED WEAR PRODUCTION 36

7.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR KNITTED WEAR PRODUCTION 37

Unit 1 INTRODUCTION ABOUT GARMENT PRODUCTION ORDER 1.1 GARMENT PRODUCTION

Garment manufacturing includes number of processes from order receiving to dispatching shipment of the finished garments A process flow chart helps to understand how raw materials are moved from one process to another process until raw materials are transformed into the desired product (garments)

To be noted that a process flow chart made for the garment manufacturing processes will vary based on manufacturing facility and product types As some companies do whole process in single plant when others do production jobs and other auxiliary processes are outsourced

Based on present apparel industry, garment manufacturing processes are categorized as:

- Pre-Production Processes: includes sampling, sourcing of raw materials, Approvals,

PP meeting etc

- Production processes: cutting, sewing, finishing etc

- Post production processes: thread trimming, pressing, checking, folding and packing, shipment inspection etc

Instead of making a single process flow chart, I have made one chart for major processes and two separate charts for cutting room processes and finishing processes for detailed process chart

Chart1: Garment manufacturing process flow chart (major processes)

1.2 ORDER FOR GARMENT PRODUCTION

Production orders contain all the information you need for the production process, for example quantity, basic date, information about BOM and routing The production orders in AFS contain AFS-specific data (grid values and categories) to meet the requirements of the apparel and footwear industry

- Purchase Order/ Sale Order

SALE ORDER

Long Description

Total Size Colorway

Name

Colorway Code Color PO Size S … Colorway Total

- Bill of Materials (BOM)or Color card/ color combination

COLOR COMBINATION Style number:

Material Name

CW Code

CW

PO Color

Remark

Fabric Thread Accessories

……

PO Sheet Color name Size Size … Total

………

Total

* Color Combination Section Outshell pocketing Interlining Zipper

teeth

Zipper tape

Poly button

Main label

Thread

Item Standard Color Order

Quantity

Consumption Quantity ETD Supplier

Estimated time of departure: time to delivery products

Main Label Size Label Care Label Hangtag

- Change in Material (Depend on order)

DESCRIPTION OF CHANGE IN MATERIAL Style number:

Material Name

Remark:

- Technical Document/ Worksheet

It includes technical documentation to guide garment manufacturing process such as cutting, sewing, finishing

Unit 2 GARMENT PRODUCT: SHIRT

2.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR SHIRT PRODUCTION

- Parts of shirt : + Front: upper front, under front

+ Back : Yoke, back + Sleeves: sleeves, sleeve plackets + Collar: upper collar, under collar, upper stand collar, under stand collar + Pocket: pocket, flap pocket

+ Cuffs: upper cuffs, under cuffs

Dist.A8 Waist Height Front from HPS

Define distance straight down from HPS

Define distance straight down from HPS and measure flat, straight across garment from edge to edge

A13 Shoulder Length

Measure along natural shoulder the distance from HPS to highest point of armhole excluding trims

B1 Across Shoulder

Measure flat, straight across front from highest point of armhole to highest point of armhole

B6 Centre Back Length

Measure straight down from centre back neckline point to bottom of garment

C4 Armhole Straight

Place front armhole curved and measure the straight line between highest and lowest point of armhole

D2 Neck Width Inside

Measure flat, straight across neck opening from edge to edge excluding trimming or piping

- Sewing Construction

Side seam

5 THREAD OVERLOCK SINGLE NEEDLE

4 NEEDLE FLAT BED FEED OF THE ARM

Plain seam finished/Flat felled seams/French seams/4 threads over

4 NEEDLE FLAT BED

Plain seam finished/Flat felled seams/French seams/4 threads over

seam/

welt seams

Shoulder

5 THREAD OVERLOCK SINGLE NEEDLE

4 NEEDLE FLAT BED

Plain seam finished/Flat felled seams/French seams/4 threads over

seam/

welt seams

Bottom

5 THREAD OVERLOCK SINGLE NEEDLE

French Placket

plain placket/ triangular placket/continuous sleeve placket

- Width: 54/55“

- Weight: 274 gr/square meter/ 4 oz (gr/

square yard)

- Finish: yarn dyed checks;

weft stretch, plain dyed

Security Tag

Inside at wearer's Left Side Seam, centered under care label

Square Endfold Label

Woven/ Print

At center front placket, 3/4"

from bottom hem edge

HANGTAG

Tack w/plastic fastener at Size Tab

Logo

Tack w/plastic fastener at Size Tab

Button

4-hole /2 hole metal - plastic

- polyester -

wood - shell -

pearl - Faux pearl - crystal - glass -

leather - fabric 16L w/Logo (8)at center front opening, (1) extra button at inside of placket

1 1/2" above hem edge

4-hole /2 hole metal - plastic - polyester -

wood - shell -

pearl - crystal - glass - leather - fabric 14L w/Logo (2)At corners of collar, (1)extra button at inside of placket 1 1/2" above hem edge

I- board Insert I-board

Paper Band Insert Paper Band

Plastic Band Insert plastic band

Butterfly Insert Butterfly

Pins Insert pins

Metal Clips

Size Sticker Patch size sticker

Ink Stamp Label ink stamp

Polybag

THREAD

(S.P.I = 10 TO 11)

THREAD 100% POLYESTER TOPSTITCH T-60 DTM

THREAD 100% POLYESTER BOBBIN T-40 DTM

THREAD 100% POLYESTER OVERLOCK T-40 DTM

2.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR SHIRT PRODUCTION

2.2.1 Collar

Both points same length Stripes, plaids, checks or pattern should match on both point Uniformly stitched, no puckering, skipped or broken stitches, or raw edges Should lay flat

2.2.2 Buttons anh buttonoles

- Button placement: Front placement should be 2 1/2’’ from neckband seam to center

of first button and 7 1/4’’ from hem edge up to center of lowest button, and all other buttons spaced equidistantly

- Spare button are tacked by button thread at 3’’ above hem on inside lower front under placket (1 of each size button) Thread shank should be minimum of 3/32” for front placket and cuff buttons

2.2.3 Labels

- Main label: tab label, inserted in the external left side seam at 11cm from the finished bottom, then inserted paying attention that both edge are perfectly even and that the wording is at 2mm from the finished seam Main label applied on the back centre lining at 3 cm from the raw edge neckline, with the perimetrical edge stitching not visible to the outer side Apply the care and composition label to the left side seam at 3cm from the finished armhole

2.2.4 Pocket

Top of the pocket hozitontal Uniformly stitched, no puckering, skipped or broken stiches, or raw edges Corners securely tacked Stripes, plaids, checks, or pattern should match

2.2.5 Hem

Uniformly stitched, no puckering, skipped or broken stiches, or raw edges

2.2.6 Yoke and shoulder

Pleats properly placed Uniformly stitched, no puckering, skipped or broken stiches, or raw edges Should lay flat

Unit 3 GARMENT PRODUCT: PANTS 3.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR PANTS PRODUCTION

Figure 2: Sketch of standard measuring positions for Jeans, Trousers/ Casual

Dist.H10 Low Hip Below Waistband

Define distance straight down below waistband

Define distance down from waistband seam at centre front and

at side edges Measure hip by pivoting tape between these three defined points, waist is lying naturally

Dist.H11 Low Hip from Top of Waist

Define distance straight down from top of waist

H11 ½ Low Hip

Define distance down from top of waist at centre front and at side edges Measure hip by pivoting tape between these three defined points, waist is lying naturally

I1 Front Rise Below Waistband

Measure down from waistband seam following curve of front

rise seam to crotch seam

I2 Front Rise from Top of Waist

Measure down from top of waist of garment following curve

of front rise seam to crotch seam

I3 Back Rise Below Waistband

Measure down from waistband seam following curve of back rise seam to crotch seam

I4 Back Rise from Top of Waist

Measure down from top of waist of garment following curve

of back rise seam to crotch seam

3.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR PANTS PRODUCTION

Writing Care Instructions

Labels for clothing must have a washing instruction or a drycleaning instruction If the item can be washed and drycleaned, the label needs only one of these instructions However, you may want to consider that consumers like having washing instructions for items that can be washed If you prefer, you can give instructions for both washing and drycleaning

Sometimes, because of the particular combination of components, a garment can neither be safely washed nor drycleaned, but the manufacturer nevertheless wishes to market it The label on such a garment must say "Do not wash - Do not dryclean."

The care symbols from the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) designated as ASTM Standard D5489-96c, Standard Guide for Care Symbols for Care Instructions on Textile Products, may be used in place of words, but the symbols must fulfill the requirements of the Rule These symbols are also very similar but not identical to the symbols designated as an international standard by the International Standards Organization (ISO) that are used in many European countries Only the ASTM symbols have been approved for use in the United States The system used in Europe does not provide symbols for all the information required by the Care Labeling Rule The U.S representatives to the ISO are working to add the necessary symbols to the international standard and to harmonize the international standard with the ASTM standard

Washing Instructions: Five Elements One: Washing by hand or by machine

The label must say whether the product should be washed by hand or machine The label also must give a water temperature setting if regular use of hot water will harm the product

If all commercially available bleaches would harm the product when used on a regular basis, the label must say "No bleach" or "Do not bleach."

Three: Drying

The label must say whether the product should be dried by machine or some other method Unless regular use of high temperature will harm the product when machine dried, it is not necessary to indicate a temperature setting

Four: Ironing

Ironing information must be given on a care label if ironing will be needed on a regular basis If regular use of a hot iron will not harm a product, it is not necessary to indicate a temperature setting

Five: Warnings

If the consumer reasonably could be expected to use a care procedure that would harm the product, the label must contain a warning like "Do not," "No," "Only," to warn against the harmful procedure For example, if a garment will be harmed by ironing, even if ironing is not regularly needed, the label should state "Do not iron" if the customer can be expected to "touch up" the garment occasionally

If a care procedure on one product could cause harm to another product being washed with it, a warning must be included For example, if an item is not colorfast, the label must say, "Wash with like colors" or "Wash separately."

Warnings are not necessary for alternative procedures that could be harmful For example, if the instructions state, "Dry flat," it's not necessary to state, "Do not tumble dry."

Drycleaning Instructions

A simple "dryclean" instruction may be used under two conditions First, if all commercially available types of solvent can be used, the label doesn't have to mention any particular type of solvent If one or more solvents would harm the product, however, a safe solvent must be mentioned (For example, "Dryclean, petroleum solvent.") Second, a simple "dryclean" may be used if the drycleaning process, as defined in the Rule, can be used on the garment with no modifications If any part of the drycleaning process would harm the product, the "dryclean" instruction must include a warning to avoid or modify that part of the process "Do not," "No," "Only,"

or other clear wording must be used For example, if steam would damage a garment, the label should say, "Dryclean No steam." In this situation, where a modification must be made to the normal drycleaning process, you may, if you wish, say,

"Professionally dryclean No steam." But "Professionally dryclean" should not be used where there is no need to modify the normal drycleaning process, and it should only be used with the instructions for modifying the process (E.g., "Professionally dryclean

No steam.") By itself, "Professionally dryclean" is not an adequate instruction

Remember that "Dryclean Only" is a warning that the garment cannot be washed For any warning on the label, you must have evidence that the process warned against will damage the garment You may label garments "Dryclean Only," but only if you have evidence that washing will damage the garment

Unit 4 GARMENT PRODUCT: JEAN S

4.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR JEANS PRODUCTION

* Measuring Positions:

- Front rise

- Back rise

- Back Rise from Top of Waist

- Back Rise Below Waistband

- Front Rise from Top of Waist

- Front Rise Below Waistband

- Waistband at top edge

- Low Hip Below Waistband

- Low Hip from Top of Waist

- Cotton Serge: The traditional denim is 100 percent cotton serge Additionally, denim

is often blended with other fabrics

- Raw Denim: Raw denim is dark, unwashed fabric that is stiff and very durable It

fades with wear in certain areas, creating a natural distressed look It also fades with washing

- Selvage Denim: The premium type of raw denim fabric is selvage denim, with tight

weaving and natural edges that will not unravel Selvage denim is more expensive than other raw denim

- Stretch Denim: The blend closest to pure denim is called stretch denim, which usually

includes 2 or 3 percent Spandex material for a bit of give in the fabric

- Poly-Denim: Poly-denim blends look like a dressier denim, and are more lightweight,

which makes them more convenient to wash and dry They also are more resistant to