DK Eyewitness Travel - Top 10 Munich 2005

Museum Verkehrszentrum Alter H Asamkirche kirche Frauen- kirche Peters-Neues Rathaus Altes Rathaus Hofb Alte Münz Hofgarte Leo Alter Südlicher Friedhof Neuer Südlicher Friedhof Bavaria

10

YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

10 10

Unmissable museums & galleries Best beer halls

Great castles Best venues for music & theatre Great walks & itineraries Liveliest bars & clubs Best hotels for every budget Great day trips

Best lakes, parks & gardens Insider tips for every visitor

10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10

MUNICH

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Westend Laim

Neuhausen

Hansapark Schwant

Untersendling

Westpark (Ost) Westpark

(West)

Schlosspark Nymphenburg

Westfriedhof

K L U G S TR

R O M A N S T R A S S E

B A L DU R S T R AS S EW IS

BINGE

R STR.

TR. R ID

L E

GA NGHO FERS

A N

Munich Area by Area

This Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide to

Munich divides the city into four easily

managed areas There is also a section on

day trips and excursions around Bavaria.

The map below shows the location and

extent of the central areas and the one to

the right those of the excursions Each area

is colour coded; colour bands on the pages

covering each area correspond to the

colours shown on this map Almost every

place mentioned in the book has a map

reference, which takes you to the large

maps on the front and back flaps.

Left The Neo-Gothic town hall on Marienplatz Near left Oktoberfest Near right Interior of the

Müllersches Volksbad

Bogenhausen

West

Schwabing-

Ludwigs-vorstadt

Isarvorstadt

Altstadt thalerhöhe

Maxvorstadt

Schwabing

Haidhausen Lehel

Au

Englischer Garten

Theresien-wiese

Olympiapark

Kleinhesseloher See

HOFER- ST

RASSE

ROSENHEIMERS

TR.

PLATZ

LU D IGS T

MARIEN-Downtown & Old Town

Traunstein Aschau

Bernau Grassau Reit im Winkl

Bad Reichenhall Ramsau Lofer

Weilheim

Tutzing

Scharnitz

Starnberg Grünwald

Bad Tölz

Jenbach

Rosenheim Erding

Raubling

Wörgl Rattenberg Alpbach Wallgau

su

W e s t p a r k ( O s t )

W e s t p a r k ( W e s t )

Laim

Brauchle-R

Georg-Westfriedhof

Gern

platz Westendstraße

Heimeran-Laimer

Platz

Friedenheimer Straße

LEIDINGER-RONDELL NEUWITTELSBACH

NE T S

SIEGRUNESTR.

FASOL TSTR.

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HOHENLSTR.

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PASC H- TA X

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T I Z I A NS T R A S S E

T I Z I A NS T R A

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FR A ASSTRASS EG

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Galerie im Lenbachhaus Glyptothek Musikhochschule Antikensammlung

Bavaria

Dt Museum Verkehrszentrum

Alter H

Asamkirche

kirche

Frauen- kirche

Peters-Neues Rathaus Altes Rathaus Hofb

Alte Münz

Hofgarte Leo

Alter Südlicher Friedhof

Neuer Südlicher Friedhof

Bavaria-park

D M

Olympiagelände

Residenz

Alte Pinakothek Musemsviertel

Neue Pinakothek

Pinakothek der Moderne

Gis

Universität

platz

Odeons-Rotkreuzplatz

Stiglmaierpl.

Königsplatz

straße Josephsplatz

Theresien- platz

Hohenzollern-Schwanthalerhöhe

Theresienwiese

Goetheplatz

Sendlinger Tor

Fraunhoferstraße

Kolumbusplatz Poccistraße

Implerstraße

R Ü M A N N S T R A S S E

EPEL IN JAM

AKADE MIEST

BALDE- PLATZ

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Cornelius-O l y m p i a s e e

Bogen-Alte Heide

Böhmer- platz

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ELFI LEDIG

DORLING KINDERSLEY DORLING KINDERSLEY TOP 10

Churches, Chapels &

Opera, Concerts & Theatre 42 Small Theatres & Cabarets 44 Festivals & Open-Air Events 46

Produced by Dorling Kindersley Verlag,

Munich

English-language adaptation produced

by International Book Productions Inc.,

Toronto

Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore

Printed and bound in Italy by Graphicom

First published in Great Britain in 2005

by Dorling Kindersley Limited

80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL

A Penguin Company

Kindersley Limited, London

All rights reserved No part of this

publication may be reproduced, stored

in a retrieval system, or transmitted in

any form or by any means, electronic,

mechanical, photocopying, recording or

otherwise, without the prior written

permission of the copyright owner

A CIP catalogue record is available from

the British Library

ISBN 1 4053 0871 0

Within each Top 10 list in this book, no

hierarchy of quality or popularity is

implied All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion,

of roughly equal merit

Cover: Alamy Images Claudio H Artman bl; Photolibrary.com Indexstock cl; Zefa Visual Media H Spichtinger main Spine: Corbis Royalty Free Back: A1 Pix Rolf Zscharnack tc; Alamy Images Robert Harding World Im- agery tr; Tourist Information Office Bad Tölz tl.

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regulary.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time ofgoing to press Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor forany material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in thisbook will be a suitable source of travel information We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL

Munich – the Bavarian

Day Trips & Excursions

Left Antiquarium, Residenz Centre Schloss Nymphenburg Right Oktoberfest

Left Theatinerkirche Right Fischbrunnen (Fish Fountain) Marienplatz

Following pages Munich, the Alps in the background

TOP 10 MUNICH

Munich Highlights

6 –7 Deutsches Museum

8 –11 Schloss Nymphenburg

12–13 Museum District – Alte & Neue Pinakothek & Pinakothek der Moderne 14–17 Olympiapark

18 –19 Residenz

20 –21 Oktoberfest 22–23 Beer Gardens 24–25 Around Marienplatz

26–27 Neuschwanstein

& Ludwig II 28–31 Starnberger See

32–33 Top 10 of Everything

S TRA

S SE

A R N UL F S T

R A S SE

B R

artificial hill, was

created from World

War II rubble for

the Summer

Olympics At

the time, the

dis-tinctive tent roof was

(see pp20–21).

Museumsviertel

Three Pinakotheken (picture galleries) now lie side

by side in the Museum District

The oldest, the Alte Pinakothek

in a reconstructed buildingfrom 1836, is devoted to historic European painting – itscollection boasts pricelesstreasures including panels by

Albrecht Dürer (see pp14–17).

Deutsches Museum

Renowned as the oldestand largest museum of scienceand technology in the world,the museum attracts morethan 1.3 million visitors every

year (see pp8–11).

Schloss

Nymphenburg

Ludwig I’s Gallery of

Beauties features

por-traits of noblewomen

and famous beauties,

such as the tailor’s

daughter, Helene

Sedl-mayr (see pp12–13).

Of the city he lived in for many years, 20th-century writer Thomas Mann said that

“Munich glows” And indeed, the sky is often a brilliant blue dotted with puffy white clouds in “Italy’s northernmost city”, where the relaxed, often Baroque lifestyle gives it a southern flair Englischer Garten and the Isar meadows are right in the middle of the city; Starnberger See and the mountains are virtually

on the doorstep But Munich is also a city of art and culture with an dance of historic buildings, museum treasures, and a lively cultural scene

5

1 8

DS A E

ASSE

W M -R

ST U

THEAT INERS

cele-in the world Some sixmillion visitors flock tothe fairgrounds every

year (see pp22–3).

Starnberger See

This lovely scenic lake on Munich’s doorstep is surrounded bypicturesque towns, royal summerpalaces, and the popular Buchheim

Museum (see pp32–3).

Schloss schwanstein

Neu-Ludwig II’s mostfamous castle was inspired by his admiration

of Wagner’s

operas (see pp28–31).

Beer Gardens

Locals are passionateabout their beer garden tradition – bring your own foodand pay only for a cool pint

(see pp24–5).

With 1.3 million inhabitants, Munich is Germany’s

0 2

916

11

11 13

13 472

33 5

E5 A95E54 A 96

307

Ammersee

Starnberger See

Füssen

Landsberg

am Lech Dießen Wessobrunn Peißenberg

Kochel am See

MünchenAround Munich

three times a day (see pp26–7).

A good alternative to

the museum cafeteria

is Café Stör in the

Müller Baths, a

mag-nificent Art Nouveau

building across from

the museum.

The museum shop

sells model kits

• S-Bahn: Isartor (all

lines), U1/U7:

• Closed 1 Jan, Shrove

Tue, Good Fri, 1 May,

1 Nov, 21 Dec, and

€3, children under 6 free

The Deutsches Museum, founded by Oskar von

Miller in 1903, is housed on an island in the Isar

River in a building dating from 1925 The world’s

largest museum of technology and engineering

is a tour de force – only a fraction of the exhibits

can be viewed in a single day The best approach

is to plan your visit in advance

The museum on Museum

-sinsel in the Isar River

Deutsches Museum

Galileo’s Workshop

In the Physics section,

a reconstruction of Galileo’s

workshop (above) features

a large collection of ment used by the famousastronomer and physicist

equip-Pharmaceuticals

The highlight of this section, opened in 2000, is amodel of a human cell magni-

fied 350,000 times (below).

Zeiss Planetarium

Projected onto the15-m (49-ft) dome of thesixth floor are the sun,the moon, the planets,constellations, and nebu-lae, as well as the morethan 5,000 fixed starsvisible to the naked eye

Enigma Machine

The Enigma encoding

machine (above), built

during World War II, is

a fine example of earlyinformation technology

Floorplan of the Deutsches Museum

25

7

80

1

Basement

Entrance

Exhibits on mining technology

over five centuries are featured in

the mining section (above)

in the dome on thesixth floor

cations

Superb exhibits such asthe first 19th-centurytelegraph, Thomas Edison’s gramophone,and a 1913 AEG transmit-ter are displayed here,along with the latest

in communications technology

steam engine (above), are

veritable works of art

Space Travel

Dozens of airplanes are ondisplay, including an origi-nal by the Wright brothersand the famous Junkers

JU-52 You can even board

some planes More bits on travel are housed

exhi-at Flugwerft Schleißheim,

a branch museum

Musical

Instruments

Sounds for Hitchcock’s

The Birds were created on

the trautonium (below).

Marine Navigation

Along with countless modelships, the vast exhibitionhall features several originalsail- and steamboats, such

as the 1932 steam tugboat

Renzo and the wooden fishing vessel Ewer Maria (above).

Key to Floorplan

Ground floorFirst floorSecond floorThird to sixth floors

3

4

6

9

Physics & Astronomy

The physics section features

mechanical aids such as pulleys,

pumps, and measuring and

observation devices – including

Foucault’s pendulum, which

fea-tured in Umberto Eco’s

epony-mous novel A sense of the size

and age of our universe is

con-veyed in the astronomy section

Clocks, Chemistry,

Pharma-ceuticals & Environment

Examples of traditional

crafts-manship are on display in the

extensive clock and watch exhibit.

In the chemistry section, famous

experiments and a reconstruction

of Justus von Liebig’s laboratory

fascinate visitors Rooms

dedi-cated to pharmaceuticals show

the evolution of drug research.

Ecological issues are dealt with

in the environment exhibit.

Mining, Metallurgy,

& Agriculture

In the basement, a

re-created mine is

comple-mented by exhibits on

the more than

12,000-year-old history of

metal-lurgy The agriculture

section demonstrates

the cultivation of cereals

and grain, brewing, and

sugar refining.

Glass Ceramics, &

Machine Tools

In this section, materials

and production

tech-niques used in a variety

of industries are on display These include exhibits demonstrating glass and paper manufacture; the range of ceramics manufacture, from bricks to fine china; and tools from Stone Age drills to computer-controlled lathes.

Energy Technology

From original windmills to plasma- and fusion-technology, this section features inventions that facilitate everyday life The huge steam engines and high- voltage experiments are not to

be missed.

Communications

In addition to telegraph and radio equipment, this department includes sections on printing technology, photography, and film Visitors can marvel at room- sized computers from the 1940s and 1950s

Marine Navigation

Numerous models of ships illustrate several millennia of marine nav- igation The rescue

cruiser Theodor Heuss is

displayed in the open-air exhibition space to the

south of the museum.

Aviation and Space Travel

In the vast hall, 220 years of aviation history are re-created – from the Montgolfier brothers’

Deutsches Museum Collections

hot-air balloons to modern jets.

The space travel section includes

a replica of the Spacelab.

Civil Engineering

An authentic suspension

bridge dominates the exhibition

hall; wall-mounted screens track

the oscillations as visitors

ven-ture onto and then cross over

this swaying bridge

Kid’s Kingdom

Reserved exclusively for dren and accompanying adults, this section is designed for young scientists, ages three and up.

chil-Interactive exhibits let children experience phenomena such as communication, energy, optics, and acoustics The Technical Toys section offers welcome relaxation after all the hands-on research

For detailed information on the branch museums, visit

Flugwerft Schleißheim, the Deutsches Museum’s branch museum on the history of aviation, is located

in an old airplane hanger on a historic airfield in Schleißheim (Effnerstraße 18, Oberschleißheim;

089/31 57 14-0) In addition to the old buildings and the airfield itself, this site offers 7,800 sq m (84,000 sq ft) of exhibition space housing over 50 airplanes, helicopters, and hang-gliders, as well as instruments and equipment There are special exhibi- tions, children’s tours, and expert-guided tours

The museum also has a shop and a restaurant – Pegasus – that serves as a year-round venue for exhibitions by young artists.

The Verkehrszentrum, or Transportation Centre, was opened in 2003 on the Theresienhöhe (Theresien- höhe 14a; 089-21 79 529) Three heritage-protected halls, once home to the Munich Fair, now house his- toric locomotives, automobiles, carriages, and bicycles With this branch museum, the Deutsches Museum has created the largest transportation museum in the world, offering a detailed and comprehensive exploration of urban transportation, travel, mobility, and transportation technology Special exhibitions and lectures round out the programme

The Branch Museums

Top 10 Aviation &

Transportation

1 Fokker D VII, fighter

aircraft (World War I)

6 Puffing Billy (first

loco-motive in the world)

7 Drais wheel

8 Benz motorcar (first

automobile in the world)

The automobile

collec-tion in the

transporta-tion centre exemplifies

the stellar quality of the

exhibits

Audio guides are

available for a fee.

Theme tours of the

grounds are also

• closed 1 Jan; Shrove

Tue; 24, 25 & 31 Dec

• Park adm free

• Free park tours in

spring and autumn

To celebrate the birth of their son in 1664, the Elector Ferdinand Maria and his wife Henrietta Adelaide of Savoy commissioned Agostino Barelli to build a summer palace to the west of Munich The wings and annexe buildings were added from 1701 onwards The historic gardens to the rear of the palace beckon for a pleasant stroll Over the course of 300 years, the original orna- mental garden was expanded into a vast ensemble comprising a Baroque garden, a system of canals, and small pavilions scattered throughout the park.

Arcaded galleries connectthem to the main building,contributing to the harmony

of the ensemble (right).

Gallery of Beauties

Ludwig I commissionedJoseph Stieler to create agallery of beauties – a collection of portraits ofnoblewomen, townswomen,and dancers – such asHelene Sedlmayr, a beautiful

tailor’s daughter (above).

Steinerner Saal

The Rococo lishment in the spaciousballroom was created byJohann B Zimmermannand Cuviliés the Elderduring the reign of Maximilian III Joseph

embel-Lackkabinett

Exquisite Chinesemotifs in black laquer onwood panelling arereprised in the Rococo

ceiling fresco (below)

The Museum Mensch und Natur in the right wing of the palace

From Formal den to Palace Park

Gar-In 1664, the site tured an ornamental gar-den This was enlarged

fea-in 1701 and a canal wasadded Its transforma-tion into a formal Baroque garden began

in 1715 under the tion of Dominique Girardand Joseph Effner, whobuilt a system of canals,fountains, hedged gar-dens, and a forest-likepark Pavilions and lodgeswere added over thecourse of the 18th cen-tury In the 19th century,Friedrich L von Sckellreconfigured the park inthe style of an Englishlandscape garden

direc-Symmetrically

laid-out French gardens to

the rear of the palace

give way to an

English-style landscaped park,

which was established

using the existing forest

The gardens feature

pavil-ions, lodges, fountains,

ornamental ponds, and

other park installations

This building houses

carriages and sleighs that

once belonged to the

Bavarian rulers Ludwig II‘s

gilded state coach (below)

is one such example

klause

Magdalenen-Grottoes and follies were

an expression of century romantic yearn-ings This folly containsrooms of monastic severity, which served as

18th-a pe18th-aceful retre18th-at for Maximilian Emanuel,along with a chapel located in a grotto

Badenburg

Featuring a ballroomand a two-storey bathinghall containing a heatedpool – making it one ofEurope’s first – this pavil-ion is definitely worth avisit Three of the pavil-ion‘s rooms are lined incostly Chinese wallpaper

Pagodenburg

In this 18th-centurypavilion with an unusualoctagonal floorplan,Western and Easternornamentation is beauti-

fully combined (above).

The ground floor is ated with Delft tiles

decor-8

61

97

2

0

Orangery Porcelain Factory

The café in the Neue

Pinakothek has

out-door tables.The café

Tue–Sun (until 8pm Tue);

closed some hols

Tue–Sun (until 8pm Thu

& Fri); closed some hols

The Museum District comprises three major museums: the Alte Pinakothek, the

Nearby is the Glyptothek, the National Collection of Antiquities, and haus The Alte Pinakothek was founded by Ludwig I, designed by Leo von Klenze, and opened in 1836 It houses the collections of Bavarian dukes, electors, and kings, as well as the treasures of dissolved monasteries Today, the museum holds priceless masterpieces of 14th- to 18th-century art

0 Adoration of the Magi

Lion at the entrance to the

Persian King Darius (below).

Pietà

Sandro Botticelli’s 1495painting captivates the view-

er with its rich red hues andstrong contrasts It is one ofthe masterpieces in theItalian painting section

Portrait of Karl V

In 1548, the Italianpainter Titian created thisportrait of the emperor Karl V on the occasion ofthe Peace of Augsburg

Deposition from the Cross

Dramatic lighting terizes Rembrandt’s 1634masterpiece It is exhibit-

charac-ed in the Dutch paintingcollection, which also features landscapes andother works

Land of Cockaigne

Breughel, the mostfamous representative ofthe Flemish School, offers asatirical depiction of glut-

tony and idleness (above).

This piece is part of a sectionalso housing a large collec-tion of Rubens’ paintings

1500, Old Dutch ters, Italian Renaissancepainting, 17th-centuryFrench, Flemish, andDutch painting, and asomewhat smallerSpanish collection are

Mas-on display More than

700 works of art are onview in the museum’s

19 main rooms and 47side galleries The cafe-teria and a bookshop are also located on theground floor

from his Self-Portrait in Fur Coat (1500) to the Four Apostles (1526),

painted two years beforehis death

Adoration of the Magi

The late Gothic work byHolbein the Elder from

1502 is one part of the

Eight Scenes from the Virgin’s Life altarpiece.

Key to Floorplan

Ground FloorFirst Floor

Portrait of Willem

van Heythuisen

Hals’ magnificent painting

(1625–30) is an

outstand-ing example of Dutch

portraiture (above) The

collection includes

land-scape and other works

Disrobing

of Christ

El Greco created this bre work around 1579

som-(below) It is part of the

small yet exquisite tion of Spanish paintings

collec-1

2

4567

Floorplan of the Alte Pinakothek

Entrance

Neptune’s Horses

In this 1892 painting, Walter

Crane fuses Pre-Raphaelite

expression with Art Nouveau

and Symbolist influences.

The Poor Poet

Carl Spitzweg’s famous 1898

painting captures the spirit of the

Biedermeier period

Boys on the Beach

Dating from 1898, this work

by Max Liebermann exemplifies

the preoccupation of German

Impressionists with capturing the

play of light in their work

Breakfast in the

Studio

Edouard Manet’s painting from

1869 – a seminal work of strong

light and dark contrasts that

her-alds the beginning of

Impression-ism – is one of the highlights of

the Neue Pinakothek

Play of the Waves

Arnold Böcklin’s oeuvre was

heavily inspired by classical

mythological themes This work

from 1883 depicts water

nymphs, mermaids, and sea gods in a subtly erotic Neo- Baroque manner.

The Classic Modern Collection

The museum’s collection is divided into two principal sections The Classic Modern encompasses the period up to

1960 and features works by Kirchner, Nolde, Braque, Picasso, Klee, Beckmann, and others

The Contemporary Art Collection

This section documents the art scene from 1960 onward and includes works by Beuys, Baselitz, Warhol, de Kooning, Twombly, and others

The Graphic Arts Collection

A wide range of works from the Old Masters (Rembrandt, Titian)

to Cézanne are some of the lights of this collection, along with modern graphic works by Baselitz and Wols, and Franz

high-Neue & Pinakothek der Moderne

Manet’s Breakfast in the Studio

On this list numbers 1–5 are in the Neue Pinakothek; 6–10 are in

The Design Collection

For an excellent introduction to the Pinakothek der Moderne, visit

The Tower of the Blue Horses

(1912) Over 45,000

draw-ings and roughly 350,000

prints are shown in rotating

approximately 500 models are

presented in rotating exhibits

Founded by Ludwig I, the Neue Pinakothek was opened in 1853; it was destroyed in 1944 The new structure, designed by Alexander von Branca, was inaugurated nearly four decades later, in 1981 With a permanent collection of over 4,500 paintings and

300 sculptures, the Neue Pinakothek is one of the most important museums of 19th-century art

The spacious building designed by Stephan Braunfel for the Pinakothek der Moderne was inaugurated in

2002 as a site for art of the 20th and 21st centuries With over 20,000 sq m (215,300 sq ft) of floor space, the museum provides ample room for both perma- nent and special exhibitions All galleries are grouped around a central rotunda and linked via a network of stairs At first sharply criticized because of the exorbi- tant building costs of €121 million, the museum has since been acknowledged as one of the most impres- sive art collections in the world

The three Pinakotheks in the Museum District are

soon to be joined by additional museums such as the Brand- horst collection A photography museum is also under discus- sion The Glyptothek, the Museum of Antiquities, and the Lenbachhaus are within easy walking distance of each other and constitute the nexus

of the future Art District The Museum District is also home

to dozens of private galleries.

Museum &

Art District

Rotunda, Pinakothek der Moderne

the Pinakothek der Moderne

The Design Collection

Modern utilitarian objects are the theme of this col- lection Comprising nearly 60,000 objects, the exhibits range from chairs (Thonet room),

to 1960s Pop furniture, to objects from the world of aerodynamics and computer design

wins design competition

3 1993: Bavaria asks that

donations cover 10 per

cent of building costs

4 1994: The PDK

Founda-tion raises 30 million DM

5 1995: Decision is made

to build the museum

6 1996: Turning the sod

• Olympic Aquatic

Cen-tre: 7am–11:30pm daily,

adm: €3 (children 6 years

by the firm of Behnisch & Partners, the elegant, airy ensemble derives its acter chiefly from the transparent tensile roof designed by Frei Otto Tent- shaped, it covers part of the stadium, the hall, and the pool, and is considered

char-a mchar-asterpiece of modern char-architecture

5 Lake & Park

6 Olympic Skating Rink

7 Indoor Ski Slope

8 Olympic Aquatic Centre

9 Father Timofej’s Chapel

0 Theatron & Other Facilities

Aerial view of Olympiapark

Olympiapark

Olympic Tower

A high-speed elevatortransports visitors to theobservation platform andrevolving restaurant of this290-m- (900-ft-) high Olympic

Tower (right) From here there

are fabulous views of thepark and city and, when thefamous Föhn winds are blow-ing, you can even see the Alps

Revolving Restaurant

The Olympic Tower’srevolving restaurant, located

180 m (825 ft) above theground, serves bistro food atlunch and gourmet fare in theevening It completes a 360-degree rotation every 49 minutes, providing diners with

a unique panoramic vista

Olympic Hall

Conceived from theoutset as a multipurposevenue, the Olympic Hallholds up to 14,000 spec-tators Covering the hall

is a large section of thespectacular tent-shapedtensile roof, suspendedfrom 58 pylons Used for

a wide variety of sportsevents, the Olympic Hallalso serves as a venuefor concerts, confer-ences, and fairs

Olympic Stadium

Seating almost 67,000spectators, this

stadium (right) was

home to the FCBayern football clubfor years The clubhas now movedand the stadium isused for a variety

of other events

Indoor Ski Slope

Have fun on the

150-m- (500-ft-) long

artifi-cial ski slope There’s a ski

school, lift, après-ski lodge,

and equipment for rent

Lake & Park

Piled-up war rubble

served as the base for

the small hills on the

grounds After they were

landscaped, boulevards

and an artificial lake were

added, creating a perfect

park for walking Climb to

the top of the

Olympia-berg for a spectacular

view of the park and city

Olympic Aquatic

Centre

One of the largest in

Europe, this aquatic

cen-tre (right) offers diving

pools, saunas, a steam

grotto, sunbathing lawns,

exercise rooms, and

well-ness programmes

Olympic Skating

Rink

The skating rink is a

per-fect place to practise

skating or ice-dancing

to music Skates are

available for hire

0

Father Timofej’s Chapel

This Russian Orthodox

chapel (above), built

(with-out a permit) by RussiansTimofej and Natasha in

1951 on the Olympicgrounds, still stands today

Theatron &

Other Facilities

The many attractions inOlympiapark include tennis courts, an indoorcycling racetrack, a beachvolleyball court, a basket-ball court, rowboats onthe lake, and summercurling The Theatron

(above), an amphitheatre

with seating for 6,000,

is used as a venue forfree open-air concerts

in summer

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Plan of Olympiapark

Commissioned byAlbrecht V, this Renaissancejewel was built between

1568 and 1571 Allegoric frescoes, grotesques, andBavarian landscapescenes embellish the69-m- (225-ft-) longbarrel vault The Antiquarium wasrestored between

1995 and 2000

(centre).

20

The historic Café

Tambosi in the

Hof-garten offers light

meals.The Pfälzer

Residenzweinstube

(Residenzstr 1) offers

heartier fare.

There are numerous

guided tours in and

around the Residenz.

10am–4pm daily (one

section of the Residenz

is open mornings, one,

afternoons); audio tours

are available

• closed 1 Jan; Shrove

Tue; 24, 25 & 31 Dec

Opening hours are the

same as for the

stuc-Cuvilliés Theater

Built between1751and 1755, thisbeautiful Rococo theatre

by Cuvilliés the Elder iswidely regarded as

Europe’s finest (below).

kammer

Schatz-The 16th-centurySchatzkammercontains workedgold, porcelain,the Wittelsbachdynasty’s crownjewels, andmany other

treasures (left).

Bavaria’s rulers built theResidenz over hundreds

of years; in just a fewhours during World War II, large sections of

it were destroyed

Reconstruction beganimmediately after thewar ended Many of theart treasures storedelsewhere during thewar were returned safely – sometimes bycircuitous routes Visi-tors can view some 130rooms documentingprincely culture fromfour centuries

Egyptian Art Museum

This museum, opened

in 1970 in a wing ofthe Residenz along-side the Hofgarten, hous-

es a fine collection ofpieces from ancientEgypt and the Coptic

period (above right).

Reiche Kapelle

With its ebony altar

and silver bas-reliefs,

Maximilian I’s private

Hofgarten

Bordered by formalflowerbeds and hedges,and shaded by lindentrees, this Renais-sance garden on thenorth side of theResidenz has anItalian air TheTemple of Diana,

a small pavilion linedwith seashellsdesigned by Hein-rich Schön theElder, marks thecentre of a network

of paths, whichcriss-crosses thegarden To the eastlies the BavarianState Chancellery,

a much-debatedmodern structureincorporating theruin of the formerarmy museum

Reiche Zimmer

Walk through the

Rittersaal to reach this

series of rooms done in

the early Rococo style The

Reiche Zimmer, designed

in 1730 by François

Cuvil-liés, and the Grüne

Gal-lerie (right), are but two of

the stunning rooms

Plan of the Residenz

34

80

Kaiserhof

Grottenhof

Opera

Apothekerhof Herkulessaal

Brunnenhof

957

6

Residenzstraße

Residenztheater Entrance

Courtyards

You enter Kaiserhof

through the northern

Renaissance doorway;

the southern doorway

leads into the Mannerist

Grottenhof Brunnenhof

has an octagonal shape

Apothekerhof is the

largest courtyard, the

Cuvilliés Theater

court-yard the smallest

For those who prefer

alcohol-free

bever-ages, the Wiesn

features coffee kiosks.

Discounts are

avail-able on certain dates

for some attractions.

Sat, Sun & hols (some

beer tents even longer).

Last orders are at

10:30pm daily

• free

• For large groups,

reserve tables well in

advance of the fair’s start

• www.oktoberfest.de

With more than six million visitors, over five million litres of beer, 200,000 pairs of pork sausages, and 100 spit-roasted oxen – Munich’s Oktoberfest is the largest folk fair in the world At the foot of the Bavaria statue, a huge field, the Theresienwiese (Wiesn for short), is transformed into a fairground with beer tents operated by traditional breweries, rides, and a variety of vendors selling gingerbread hearts, roast chicken, and fresh pretzels For 16 days, visi- tors and locals, some in traditional costume, indulge in Bavarian revelry

wagons (below) through the

city They are accompanied

by brass bands and breweryowners, families, and work-ers in traditional costume

Beer Tents

Beer is king in thelarge tents, where patronslink arms and sway to themusic of brass bands,and challenge each other

to drink yet another Maß

or litre (above) The motto

is: “Everyone has a right

to his or her own beerheaven.” For a less beeryambience, visit one ofthe smaller tents, such asFischer Vroni

In addition to beer, wine is available at tents such as the Weinwirt

For information on the Oktoberfest, incuding dates, discounts, and

The History of the Oktoberfest

The marriage of CrownPrince Ludwig andTherese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen on 12October 1810 was cele-brated with a five-dayfestival on Theresien-wiese, named in honour

of the bride A horserace capping the festivi-ties was slated to berepeated the followingOctober It became anannual event, quicklygrowing into a major fairwith rides and beer stalls.The first “beer palaces”appeared in 1896 Today,the fair attracts millions

of tourists and isfamous worldwide

Entire oxen are

roast-ed on a spit right before

your eyes A portion of

roast oxen or a pork hock

with crackling are just

two of the traditional and

hearty Bavarian treats

served up at the

Oktober-fest Some 100 oxen are

slaughtered for the

Wiesn every year

Another time tradition: thetiny trained crea-tures and their lordand master haveentertained spec-tators for over half

old-a century The fleold-acircus is an abso-lute must for allfans of yesteryear

On 29 September

1980 at about 10:30pm, abomb exploded near aWiesn exit Thirteen peo-ple were killed and morethan 200 were injured A

stele (left) stands as a

reminder of the attackcarried out by a neo-Nazi

Steckerlfisch

The air is not only

filled with the smell of

beer but also with the

tantalizing aroma of grilled

fish – Steckerlfisch (fish

on a stick) – prepared on a

charcoal grill (right).

Rides

With traditionalamusement rides such asthe merry-go-round, clay-pigeon shooting, and thesedate Crinoline, or thelatest thrilling attractionssuch as Euro-Star,Freefall, and severalroller-coasters – there’ssomething for everyone,from children to adrena-line addicts The slowlyrotating giant Ferriswheel offers a spectacu-lar view of the scenery

Beim Schichtl

Welcome one and all

to this cabaret – a Wiesn

fixture since 1871 Today

you can still watch acts

such as the “beheading”

of a living person on the

guillotine (below).

Statue of Bavaria

In 1843, Ludwig Icommissioned Leo vonKlenze to build theRuhmeshalle (Hall ofFame) on the Theresien-höhe; today, it houses thebusts of famous Bavari-ans The colossal statue

of Bavaria by LudwigSchwanthaler (cast in ore

by Ferdinand von Miller)rises in front of the hall Aplatform inside the statue’shead offers a spectacular

view of the Wiesn (below).

the latter, people are

allowed to bring their

own picnics.

• Daily in season, usually

mid-May–late Sep, from

10 or 11am to 11pm,

sometimes later Last

orders usually 10:30pm

• It is best to use public

transit when you visit a

beer garden

In summer, Bavaria’s “liquid food” is served in beer gardens And summer unofficially begins during Lent in March, when the breweries market their bock beers such as Salvator, Maximator, or Triumphator No matter what you drink – ale, light beer, or Weißbier (wheat beer) from Augustiner, Löwenbräu,

or Paulaner – if you haven’t sat on a wooden bench beneath the chestnut trees on a mild summer’s night and sipped a Maß (a litre) of beer while enjoy- ing the aroma of pork sausage or grilled fish, you simply don’t know Munich.

There are more than 100 beer gardens in Munich and

Top 10 Beer Gardens

(above) On beautiful summer

evenings, this beer garden ispacked Don’t miss the specialAugustiner brew from wooden

• 5,000 seats (2,000 service) • playground

full-Löwenbräukeller

A quintessentialMunich beer garden Thehistoric building – nearLöwenbräu brewery –hosts annual carnivalballs and the tapping ofthe first Triumphator barrel

Flaucher

Located on the banks

of the Isar beneath amature stand of trees, thislovely beer garden has apark-like feel Popular inthe daytime with cyclists,sunbathers, volleyballplayers, and families withchildren, it is romantic inthe evenings by candle-

seats • large playground

Make sure you try “Radi” (white or red radish), “Obazda”

Purity Law for Bavarian Beer

Munich is home tomany brewery dynas-ties Locals oftenchoose their favouritepubs and beer gardensbased on the brewsthey serve rather thanlocation or food Personalpreferences aside, the Purity Law, whichdates back to 1516, isstrictly applied to alllocal beers According tothis law, beer is pureonly when it is brewedexclusively from malt(which is germinatedgrain, usually wheat,barley or spelt), hops,yeast, and water Noadditives are allowed

In the Chinese Pagoda,

an Englischer Garten

landmark (right), brass

bands play on the second

seats • playground and

antique carousel nearby

Seehaus

A place to see and be

seen, this popular beer

garden lies in the centre

of the Englischer Garten

on a small lake The

ter-race overlooking the lake

is more stylish, but the

beer garden has a cosy

Sankt-A beer garden that isboth trendy and pastoral

ed patrons since 1892.The canopy of chestnuts

(below) is so dense that

patrons remain dry andcomfortable even on rainy

19 • 1,700 seats (400 service) • playground

full-Paulaner

The brewery’s beergarden on the Nocker-berg is rather small, butfamous for its beer InMarch, the brewery hosts

a highly original annualevent, the Salvator-tap-ping There is muchlaugher as prominentpoliticians meet, submit

to an evening of ribbing,and savour the new bock

• historic garden pavilion

in the beer garden

• playground

There are numerous

cafés and restaurants

on and around

Marienplatz.

For excellent views

visit the Neues

Rathaus tower, the

Frauen-platz 1; Tower (South

tower, West Entrance),

there are a few stairs to

the elevator: Open

• Visitors cannot view

churches during church

services

Henry the Lion transformed Marienplatz into the centre of Munich – and it remains the heart of the city today This is where the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) stands, major public transit lines meet, and locals and visitors alike stroll past street entertainers, or sit at the restaurant and café patios lining the square A pedestrian zone begins at the western end of the square; the ele- gant Weinstraße and Theatinerstraße lead off from the north; toward the east are the Isartor and Maximilianstraße, and to the south the Viktualienmarkt

Built between 1867 and

1908, the Neo-Gothic NeuesRathaus (New Town Hall) istopped by the Münchner Kindl(Munich Child), the city’s sym-bol At 11am, noon, and, fromMay to October, also at 5pm,people gather on Marienplatz

to enjoy the town hall’s famousGlockenspiel – a chimingclock with dancing figures

Altes Rathaus

Now home to a toymuseum, the Gothic AltesRathaus (Old Town Hall) of

1474 has been rebuiltoften, but the hall onthe ground floor andthe tower, once a citygate, are original

Pedestrian Zone

Munich’s most lar traffic-free shoppingzone begins at the west-ern end of the square andstretches to Karlsplatz

popu-Be sure to see thelate RenaissanceMichaelskirche

Peterskirche

At the highestpoint of the OldTown stands the13th-century

St Peter’s,Munich’s oldestparish church Itstower, affection-ately called Old

Peter (left),

mands

com-a fineview

Marienplatz

Dominated by the Neues

Rathaus, the square (centre)

features a golden statue ofthe Virgin Mary from 1590, andthe 19th-century Fischbrun-nen (Fish Fountain) On AshWednesday, the mayor andtown councillors wash theirwallets there so that the city’scoffers will always be full

in a gesture of tion, the Münchner Kindl

benedic-in its monk’s habit is areminder of the city’smonkish origins

Dressed in black andyellow, the colours ofthe city, it accompaniesall official processions –including the Oktober-fest – on horseback It isalso found on postcards,beer bottles, and evensewer covers The

“child’s” genderremains a mystery

The live stand-in isalways a woman

Viktualienmarkt

Since 1807, thiscolourful food market hasthrived here A stroll pastthe 140 market stalls is atreat not to be missed

(above).

Theatinerkirche

Munich’s “Italianmile” begins with theTheatinerkirche(1663–1768) – an exuber-ant blend of largeBaroque domes, flowingvolutes, a gigantic cupola, and Rococo

façades (above).

Feldherrnhalle

Modelled on Loggiadei Lanzi in Florence, Fried-rich von Gärtner built theFeldherrnhalle in 1844 as

a monument to Bavaria’smilitary heroes It marksthe boundary betweenOld Town and Schwabing

Plan of Marien- platz

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KAUFINGERSTRASSE

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symbol Built in record

time (1468–88), the church

is the largest Gothic

basilica in southern

Ger-many Highlights include

choir figures by Erasmus

Grasser and the tomb of

jewel of the late Baroque –

a soaring natural stone

façade on the outside and

an exquisitely ornamented

grotto on the inside Egid

Quirin Asam paid for the

church (below), which was

built near his home

Refreshments are

available in the

cafe-teria located on

the castle grounds;

and there are several

restaurants nearby.

Guided tours are

mandatory; tickets

show the tour

number and precise

9am–6pm daily (ticket

office hours 8am–5pm),

Oct–Mar:10am–4pm

daily (ticket office hours

9am–3pm)

• closed 1 Jan; Shrove

Tue; 24, 25, & 31 Dec

• Adm: €9 (reduced €8 );

combined admission

with Hohenschwangau

€17 (reduced €15)

• Call ahead to book a

special tour held Wed

for those in wheelchairs

An idealized vision of a knight’s castle on the outside and a homage to Wagner’s operas on the inside, Neuschwanstein was Ludwig II’s most ambitious project During the same period, he commissioned Linderhof and Herrenchiemsee, two castles in the French style More than 50 million visitors have admired these fairy-tale castles since they were built by the shy and world-weary king At Neuschwanstein, in particular, there seems to be no low season A daytrip from Munich toward Füssen in the Schwangau is an unforgettable experience

castle in 1884 (centre) Work

continued, with the king stantly altering the plans, untilhis death in 1886 The keepand Ritterbad (knight’s bath)were never completed

con-Throne Hall

Gold, saints, and a touch of Byzantium: thethrone hall is modelled inpart after Munich’s All SaintsChurch and the Hagia Sophia

in Istanbul Originally, thethrone was to stand – like

an altar – in the apse (below).

Bedroom

In contrast to theromanticism of the livingquarters, the bedroom was designed in a Gothicstyle complete with elaborately carved oakpanelling Scenes from

Wagner’s Tristan and

Isol-de Isol-decorate the walls.

Chapel

Altar and muralsdepict Ludwig IX, thebeatified king of Franceand namesake of thefairy-tale king of Bavaria

Study

Ludwig’s study isfilled with pictures from

Wagner’s opera häuser On his desk is a

Tann-fanciful pen-and-ink set in

the shape of Lohengrin.

The dining room wasequipped with a servinghatch and elevator thatwent up three floors.

The kitchen had warmrunning water and automatic roasting spits Forced-air central heating kept the roomswarm Toilets were fittedwith an automatic flushmechanism An electricintercom was used tocommunicate with ser-vants, and the secondand third floors werelinked by a telephone

Dining Room

Dishes were ported in an elevatorfrom the kitchen threestories below to the dining room, where the shy king took most of hismeals on his own Muralsdepict the tradition of theminstrel’s song

trans-Going between the living room and study,visitors pass through agrotto, where a smallwaterfall flowed during

the king’s lifetime (left).

The larger Venus grotto,complete with an artificiallake, is located in thepark of Linderhof Castle

Ludwig spent part

of his childhood andyouth in this summerpalace, which is located

in wildly romanticscenery His father, Maximilian II, restoredthe palace fully in 1832.Hohenschwangau’s coat

of arms bears a swan –later often depicted asLohengrin’s swan, which

is a constantly recurringmotif throughoutNeuschwanstein

Minstrel’s Room

Influenced by the

cer-emonial hall of the

Wart-burg in Eisenach, this is

the castle’s largest room

The walls are decorated

with scenes from the

legend of Parzival and

his quest for the Holy

Grail (below).

Linderhof Castle

Linderhof’s history began as

a hunting lodge of Maximilian II

that Ludwig II had dismantled

and reassembled in the park in

1872 Originally planned as a

second Versailles, the castle

turned out to be far more modest

in scale, albeit designed in a

delightful and whimsical

neo-Rococo style.

Castle Park

Set in a landscape garden,

the park is a French-style formal

garden created from 1870

on-wards using designs by Carl von

Effner Its parterres are

reminis-cent of the Baroque style, its

terraces of the Renaissance

Fountain of Neptune

With Cascades

On the north side of the castle,

cascades flow across 30 steps

bounded by the Fountain of Neptune at the bottom and the music pavilion at the top Arcades flank the two sides of the waterfall.

Grotto of Venus

Designed to emulate the Hörselberg in Wagner’s opera,

Tannhäuser, this artificial grotto,

complete with stalactites, features

a lake on which the king was rowed about in a gilded barge

Moorish Kiosk

Created for the Paris World’s Fair in 1867, Ludwig II acquired the pavilion for Linderhof in 1876.

Chapel

This is the oldest structure

of the castle complex, built in

1668 as the chapel of St Anna.

Herrenchiemsee Castle

On the island of chiemsee in Lake Chiemsee, Ludwig II finally began to build his “New Versailles” in 1878 Seven years later, he ran out

Herren-of funds after completing 20 magnificent rooms, which are open to visitors today.

King Ludwig II Museum

The museum is housed in the south wing of the New Castle and documents the life of “Kini,”

a Bavarian nickname for the king,

For further information on Herrenchiemsee Castle, visit

The Hall of Mirrors at Herrenchiemsee

Ludwig II and His Castles

Fountain with gilded statues, Linderhof Park

lavish ceiling frescoes depict

Louis XIV, the French “Sun King.”

Castle Gardens

Another homage to Versailles

are the gardens on the west side

of the castle, where water

fea-tures enchant visitors from May to

October With a picturesque view

of the castle and Lake Chiemsee,

this is a wonderful place for a

stroll Horse-drawn carriages run

from the ferry dock to the castle.

Top 10 Events in the

“Kini’s” building mania began in

1867 At first, he concentrated his efforts in Munich, where he redesigned his private palace apartments But he was already planning his fairy-tale castles In

1868, he developed the plans for Linderhof – the only castle to

to be completed After work

start-ed at Neuschwanstein in 1869, Ludwig focusstart-ed entirely on the Hohenschwangau region Construction

on Herrenchiemsee Castle began in 1878; Ludwig spent a mere nine days there Projects were planned for Munich, too, including a festival hall for Wagner operas (of which a smaller version was built in Bayreuth in 1976) By 1886, Ludwig was in debt by

14 million marks With bankruptcy looming, the King was removed from power, and died shortly thereafter.

Ludwig II by

F von Piloty

Zum Häring

(Midgard-haus) in Tutzing lies

directly on the lake and

Flotte” offers various

themed boat tours.

Seenschiff-fahrt (Bavarian

Steam-boat Company): docks in

Starnberg, Bernried

(Museumslinie), Berg,

Tutzing; historical,

adven-ture, and gourmet tours

at Berg The best way to experience the lake is to take a steamboat trip.

resort (centre) Over the past

decades, Munich’s elite hassettled here, building on landthat can make access to thelake difficult A walk on thepromenade is still a verypleasant experience andthere is a good golf coursenot too far from the town

Possenhofen

Possenhofen boasts abeautiful beach and many oldvillas The castle Possen-hofen, with its four battle-ment towers built in 1536and reconstructed in the 17th century, was arefuge for Sisi –Empress Elisabeth

”Weißblaue Dampferflotte”

The fleet of theBavarian SteamboatCompany offerstheme tours andexcursions, as well

as providing public transportation

Roseninsel

A romantic tion for daytrips, thissmall island off the town

destina-of Feldafing was settled

as far back as prehistorictimes In 1853 Peter JLenné and Franz JKreuter built a casinowith a park and a formalrose garden on the

island (below).

Was it a murderous plot,suicide, or a heart attack

in the frigid waters? Onthe evening of 13 June

1886, Ludwig II set outfor a walk with Dr vonGudden, his personalphysician Later, bothwere found floating dead

in the lake – von Guddenbore scratch marks onhis face Conspiracy the-ories have abounded eversince, a posthumous con-firmation of Ludwig’sremark: “I wish to remain

an everlasting mystery tomyself and to others.”

Seeshaupt

Attractively located

at the southern tip of

Lake Starnberg, with a

harbour full of yachts

and a lovely lakeside

promenade, Seeshaupt

has managed to preserve

its rural character From

here, it is just a short

trip to the Osterseen

nature reserve

Schloss Ammerland

King Ludwig I bequeathed

this castle (below) to the

musician, author, andillustrator Franz vonPocci Built between

1683 and 1685, it is tifully located on theeastern shore of the lake

beau-1 2 3 4

6

7

5 8

9 02

E533A95

Pöcking

Percha

Münsing Feldafing Berg

Ammerland Tutzing

Bernried Starnberg

Seeshaupt

Commemorative Cross for Ludwig II

A cross on the shore ofthe lake marks the spotwhere Ludwig II wasfound dead in the water.Fans of the “Kini” meethere every year on theanniversary of his death

Expressionist art as well

as folklore and

ethnologi-cal exhibits, more than

3,000 paperweights,

African masks, and

much more

Schloss Berg

Berg is the birthplace

of author Oskar Maria Graf.The palace served as thesummer residence of theWittelsbach dynasty and

of Ludwig II, the fairy-taleking who died in thenearby lake

home to the Protestant

Academy (right) From

Tutzing station, it is just a

short walk to the Ilkahöhe

(see p70) and a restaurant

of the same name On

clear days, the view of the

Alps is magnificent

The crown jewels of the Holy Roman Empire were kept in Munich

1158: Foundation of the City

Welf Henry the Lion, Duke

of Bavaria, tore down the old salt

bridge in 1157–8 and erected a

new crossing over the Isar River, a

short distance to the south There,

the small town of Munichen

devel-oped into the royal residence city

of Munich The day on which the

Hohenstaufen Emperor Friedrich

Barbarossa awarded the town

the right to hold a market and

mint coins,14 June 1158, is still

celebrated as Munich’s birthday.

1240–1918: The

Wittelsbach Dynasty

From 1240 onward, the

Wittels-bach dynasty was instrumental in

defining the evolution of the city.

They graduated from simple

dukes to electors and finally to

kings Ludwig I commissioned

the erection of Classical public

buildings in Munich; Ludwig II

built larger-than-life fairy-tale

cas-tles; the last member of the

Wit-telsbach dynasty, Ludwig III, had

to flee Bavaria after World War I.

1328: Ludwig the Bavarian

– German Emperor

In 1314, Duke Ludwig IV (the

Bavarian) was elected king of

Germany; in 1328, he was

crowned emperor of the Holy

Roman Empire.

1442: Expulsion of the

Jews from Munich

Following pogroms against the

Jews in the 13th and 14th

centuries, Duke Albrecht III gave

the order to expel all Jews from Upper Bavaria in 1442 Jewish culture did not return to Munich until the 18th century.

1806: Capital of the Kingdom of Bavaria

In the wake of the Napoleonic redrafting of Europe, the Elec- torate of Bavaria was elevated to

a kingdom, with Munich as the capital and royal residence of the much-enlarged new state The boundaries of Bavaria at that time were already roughly the same as they are today.

1848: March Revolution – Abdication of Ludwig I

In March of 1849, revolutionary uprisings reached Munich, culmi- nating in the storming of the Zeughaus (the treasury, currently the Stadtmuseum) Having lost the confidence of the court and the bourgeoisie, (in part because