Sewing embellishments ebook

Sewing embellishments 3 free patterns Using embroidery, appliqué, and other fabric embellishment Techniques 1 Pretty Cat, Baby Bear + Mini Mouse .... Pretty Cat Fabric — ¼ yd 23 cm of pr

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pretty Cat, Baby Bear + Mini Mouse

Stepping-Stones pot HolderCollage Wrap Skirt

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Sewing embellishments

3 free patterns Using embroidery, appliqué, and other fabric embellishment Techniques

1 Pretty Cat, Baby Bear + Mini Mouse 3

2 Stepping-Stones Pot Holder 7

3 Collage Wrap Skirt 10

Photo by Larry Stein

ProjeCt desIgners

Heidi Boyd, Kevin Kosbab, and Tricia Waddell

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only Sew Daily and Stitch magazine are not responsible for any liability arising from errors,

omissions, or mistakes contained in this eBook, and readers should proceed tiously, especially with respect to technical information Interweave grants per- mission to photocopy any patterns published in this issue for personal use only.

Using Embroidery, Appliqué, and Other Fabric

Embellishment Techniques.

One of the most wonderful things about

embel-lishments is that they can be applied to a project you

have created or a store-bought item Embellishment

techniques let you to be as creative as you want to be,

and they add a personalized, handmade touch to any

item In this Sewing Embellishments eBook, you will

find three pretty projects that will expand your skills

in all directions, from hand embroidery to appliqué to

beading

The Pretty Cat, Baby Bear + Mini-Mouse

pat-terns by Heidi Boyd allow you to create a trio of cuddly

playmates while also building your skills in embroidery

and adding decorative details Their expressive faces are

fashioned from felted sweaters and simple embroidery,

while colorful cotton print bodies make these huggables

nursery-ready

The Stepping-Stones Pot Holder by Kevin Kosbab

lends an elegant and earthy touch to your kitchen, and

you’ll learn a way to appliqué when securing the fused

felt circles with a blanket stitch Those wool “stones”

aren’t just for show—they also add an extra layer of

protection from heat for your table This is a win-win

project: beautiful, functional, and instructional

Wrap Skirt by Stitch founding editor Tricia Waddell

A simple wrap skirt (no fitting!) employs a freehand

collage of hand embroidery, beading, and appliqué for

a one-of-a-kind design Combine these techniques with

different textured fabrics, and you have skirt that will

travel from day to night with aplomb

Once you get started with embellishment, I think

you will truly fall in love with it for the boundless

pos-sibilities you can bring to the techniques These projects

will get you started embellishing, and from there, the

sky is the limit!

Happy stitching,

amber eden

Editor, Stitch magazine and

SewDaily

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A rainbow of colors and prints combine to make this trio of adorable playmates Create expressive faces with felted sweaters and simple embroi-dery, then add fun embel-lishments to make huggable friends

Pretty Cat

Fabric

— ¼ yd (23 cm) of print cotton for head,

body, tail, and shoes (shown here: red

check by Michael Miller)

— ¼ yd (23 cm) of print cotton for arms

(shown here: Pop Garden stripes)

— ¼ yd (23 cm) of print cotton for legs

(shown here: Lightning Bugs and

Other Mysteries by Heather Ross for Free Spirit)

— ¼ yd (23 cm) of print cotton for skirt

(shown here: Pop Garden red floral)

— Felted sweater or fleece scrap for face (at least 5” × 5” [12.5 × 12.5 cm]

—Felted sweater or fleece scrap for nose

Other SupplieS

— Pattern templates starting on Page 14

—Coordinating sewing thread

— DMC embroidery floss for eyes, whiskers, and mouth (I used blue, pink, and green)

For explanations oF terms + tecHniques used click Here For our sewing Basics online

Pretty Cat, Baby Bear + Mini-Mouse

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— 6 precut felt flowers in various sizes

(I used matching sizes for the two

buttons and shoe decorations)

—Fiberfill or natural fill (bamboo)

— 2 small buttons (I used 3⁄8” [1 cm]

— All seam allowances are ½” (1.3 cm)

unless otherwise indicated

— To create felted sweater scraps, put

a 100% wool sweater through the

washer (in hot water with a little

detergent) and dryer to compress the

fibers, then cut as indicated below

cut Out Fabric

and cut out all pattern pieces as follows

Transfer all pattern markings to the

wrong side of the fabric with a fabric

marking pen

—Cut 2 Cat Head/Body on fold

— Cut 2 Cat Tail (If you choose the

optional color change for the tail, cut

the pattern template on the dashed

line and add ½” [1.3 cm] on each

piece at the cut line Otherwise,

simply cut out the entire tail as one

piece.)

—Cut 4 Cat Arm

—Cut 4 Cat Leg

—Cut 2 Cat Skirt on fold

—Cut 4 Cat Shoe

—Cut 1 Cat Face

—Cut 1 Cat Nose

create Face

right side up, center the Cat face on the head portion, right side up; pin in place

Topstitch around the outside edge of the

to secure the face to the cat’s head

the center of the face (or slightly closer

to the bottom) using a whipstitch (see Sewing Basics) Use an embroidery needle and a full six strands of embroidery floss to make French knots for eyes, placing them as desired, above and to the sides of the nose Use long stitches to create whiskers on each side

of the nose (I placed three whiskers

on each side, using varying lengths

Each whisker was created using one long stitch.) Create a mouth using backstitch Refer to the photo on page 3 for the face on the cat

head, just below the ear (I used two stacked felt flowers and stitched them through the center by whipstitching [see Sewing Basics] in place a few times)

(figure 1)

create tail

color change for the tail, skip to

Step 6 With right sides together, place

a Tail End and Tail piece together, matching up the edges where the cut line was on the pattern template Stitch them together and press the seams open Repeat the entire step with the remaining Tail End and Tail pieces

sides together and seam all around the edge, leaving the top (flat edge) open for stuffing Trim seam allowances to

¼” (6 mm) Clip the seam allowances before turning

with fiberfill or natural fill Leave about

½” (1.3 cm) of the tail empty of stuffing

at the top

create MaiN bOdy

Skirt piece to the bottom edge of each Head /Body piece Position the flat (open) edge of the finished tail between the notches on the back Skirt piece, tucking the tail between the Head/Body and Skirt pieces, and pin it in place

trapping the tail seam allowance in the seam of the back piece Press the

the arm pieces together Stitch around the arm, leaving the top (angled flat edge) open Trim the seam allowances

to ¼” (6 mm), then turn the arm right side out and stuff with fiberfill or natural fill Leave about ½” (1.3 cm) of the arm empty of stuffing at the top

Repeat the entire step to create the second arm Clip the seam allowances before turning

piece to the small end of each Leg piece Stitch each together and press the seams open

of the Leg/Shoe pieces together, and seam around the edge, leaving the top open for stuffing Trim the seam allowances to ¼” (6 mm), then turn the leg right side out and stuff with fiberfill

or natural fill Leave about ½” (1.3 cm)

of the leg empty of stuffing at the top

Repeat the entire step to create the

figure 1

figure 2

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second leg Clip the seam allowances

before turning

the finished Head/Body/Skirt pieces

together Position the flat (open) edge

of one of the stuffed arms between the

notches on each side, tucking the arms

between the Head/Body/Skirt pieces,

and pin in place

stitch up the side Continue around,

trapping both arms in the seams and

ending at the other corner of the skirt

Leave the bottom of the skirt open for

stuffing

positioning them side by side, between

the notches Match up the flat (open)

edges of the legs with the edges of the

skirt and pin in place Stitch across

one side of the skirt and over the legs,

stopping beside the legs and leaving the

other side of the skirt open for turning

(6 mm), trimming slightly closer around

the ears Do not trim the open edge of

the skirt Clip the seam allowance at the

tips of the ears and along the curves so

the seams will lie flat Turn the cat right

side out Use a point turner to push out

the tips of the ears

fill, pushing stuffing up into the ears

first, and then continue stuffing the rest

of the cat’s head and body Handstitch

the opening at the bottom of the skirt

closed with a blindstitch

of flowers and buttons down the kitty’s

front (I stacked one button at the center

of each flower and stitched them down

to the cat through the buttons) and a

small flower on each shoe (I placed

mine at the center top of each shoe,

securing them through the center with

— ½ yd (46 cm) of print fabric for legs

and ears (shown here: Midwest

modern by Amy Butler for Rowan Fabrics)

— ¼ yd (23 cm) of floral print for pocket (shown here: Joel Dewberry for Westminster Fibers)

— ¼ yd (23 cm) of floral print for mouse (shown here: Lightning Bugs and Other Mysteries by Heather Ross for Free Spirit)

— Pattern templates starting on Page 14

—Matching sewing thread

—Fiberfill or natural fill (bamboo)

—6” (15 cm) of ¼” (6 mm) wide printed ribbon

— DMC embroidery floss for bear eyes and mouth and mouse eyes, mouth, and whiskers (I used blue, brown, and light tan)

—Felt bead for mouse nose

— To create felted scraps, put a 100%

wool sweater through the washer (in hot water with a little detergent) and dryer to compress the fibers, then cut as indicated below

cut Out Fabric

all pattern pieces as follows Transfer all pattern markings to the wrong side

of the fabric with a fabric-marking pen

— Cut 2 Bear Head/Arm on fold from chenille

— Cut 2 Bear Ear from chenille and 2 from print fabric

— Cut 2 Bear Leg on fold from print fabric

— Cut 2 Bear Pocket from floral print fabric

— Cut 1 Bear Pocket from fusible interfacing, trim ½” (1.3 cm) all around the interfacing piece

— Cut 1 Bear Face from felt scrap or fleece

— Cut 1 Bear Nose from felt scrap or fleece

— Cut 2 Mouse on fold from floral print fabric

—Cut 4 Mouse Ear from floral print fabric

create Face

up, pin the Face to the center of the head portion of one Head/Arm piece

Topstitch (see Sewing Basics) around

mm) from the edge to secure the face to the bear’s head

Nose piece to the center of the Face using a slipstitch (see Sewing Basics)

figure 3

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six strands of embroidery floss, make

French knots (see Sewing Basics) for

the eyes, placing them as desired above

and to the side of the nose Create

a wide mouth using backstitch (see

Sewing Basics) Refer to the photo on

page 3 for the face on the bear

create MaiN bOdy

one Head/Arm piece to one Leg piece

Stitch the pieces together and press

the seams open Repeat the entire step

with the remaining Head/Arm and Leg

pieces

to the wrong side of one of the Pocket

pieces, according to the manufacturer’s

instructions

Pocket pieces together Stitch the two

layers together, leaving the top edge

open Trim the seam allowances to ¼”

(6 mm) and turn the pocket right side

out Fold ½” (1.3 cm) of the top pocket

edges down into the pocket and press

Topstitch (see Sewing Basics) along the

top edge of the pocket about ¼” (6 mm)

from the edge

the lower portion of the front of the

bear (with the face), making sure the

base of the pocket doesn’t interfere

with his legs (the top of the pocket will

be about level with the bottom of the

and then topstitch around the edge of

the pocket, starting at the edge of the

topstitched line across the top of the

pocket Make a continuous stitch line

down one side of the pocket, across the

bottom, and up the other side, leaving

the top open Backstitch at both ends

of the topstitching to keep the pocket secure

one print fabric Ear to one chenille Ear Stitch around the ear, leaving the bottom open Trim the seam allowance

to ¼” (6 mm) and clip around the curves

if necessary Turn the ear right side out Repeat the entire step with the remaining print fabric and chenille Ear pieces

right side of the bear’s head, placing each ear between the notches and matching up the raw edges

back and front of the bear together, leaving the ears sandwiched between the layers Stitch the bear together, trapping the ears in the seam and leaving a 3” (7.5 cm) opening on one side for turning Trim the seam allowance to ¼” (6 mm) and clip as necessary around the curves (see Step 9) Turn the bear right side out through the opening

the arms and legs first and then begin filling the stomach and head Fold in the seam allowances of the opening and handstitch closed with a slip stitch

Make MiNi MOuSe

two of the Mouse Ear pieces together

Stitch around the ear, leaving the bottom open Turn the ear right side out Repeat the entire step with the remaining Mouse Ear pieces

right side of one of the Mouse pieces, matching the edge of the ribbon tail

to the Bottom/Side raw edge of the

Mouse piece Place the Mouse Ears

on the same Mouse piece just used, positioning them between the notches

on the head portion and matching up the raw edges Place the second Mouse piece right side down on top, trapping the ears and ribbon tail between the layers (curl the ribbon as necessary

to make sure none of it is sticking out from between the layers) Pin the pieces together, securing the tail and ears in place Stitch around the mouse, leaving

a 2” (5 cm) opening for turning Trim the seam allowances to ¼” (6 mm) and clip if necessary Turn the mouse right side out and then stuff with fiberfill or natural fill

opening and handstitch closed with a slip stitch

floss and an embroidery needle to make two French knot (see Sewing Basics) eyes, then create two whiskers on each side of the nose, using one long stitch for each Create a small mouth using backstitch (see Sewing Basics) Refer to the photo on page 3 to see the face on the mouse

the center of the mouse’s face, just above the mouth, using a slipstitch (see Sewing Baiscs) around the edges and hiding the stitching as much as possible

pocket

heidi boyd is the author of ten books with North Light Books, most notably the Simply Beautiful series She has a fine art degree and got her start in professional crafting as a con- tributor to Better Homes and Gardens books and magazines heidiboyd.blogspot.com

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The wool “stones” on this

felt pot holder aren’t just for

show—they add an extra layer

to protect your table from heat

The appliqué circles are

at-tached with fusible web and

finished by hand with a simple

1–4; shown: pink [#1], muted yellow

[#2], dark sage green [#3], and light sage green [#4])

Other SupplieS

as Insul-Bright from The Warm Company)

— Brown embroidery floss

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— Follow the manufacturer’s

instructions when using the fusible

web However, you may want to use

steam to help the heat penetrate

through the thick felt, even if the

manufacturer recommends a dry iron

— Feel free to mix felted wool of

different textures, including wool

recycled from felted clothing Just be

sure not to use acrylic felt if you want

a functional pot holder, because the

heat from a dish could melt it

cut Fabric

1.3 cm) strip from the Main felt Cut 1 of

template F from the insulated batting

the paper side of fusible web, tracing the

number indicated below Be sure to leave

at least ½” (1.3 cm) between circles

— 3 of template B

— 5 of template C

— 5 of template D

— 2 of template E

lines Following the manufacturer’s instructions, press the web to the wrong side of the felt scraps as indicated (or

as desired)

—From felt #1: 1 each of B, C, D, and E

—From felt #2: 1 of B, 2 of D

—From felt #3: 3 of C, 1 of D

—From felt #4: 1 each of B, C, D, and E

traced lines

pot holder color key

#1 (pink)

#2 (muted yellow)

#3 (dark sage green)

#4 (light sage green)

D

C B

B

D

C

D

attach circle appliquéS

fused felt circles Arrange the circles, fusible side down, on one of the Main A pieces, referring to the diagram above for guidance on placement Press with a steam iron to adhere the circle

appliqués to the Main piece Note: Cover

the felt with a press cloth to help avoid

a shiny appearance from the heat of fusing

6 Using 2 strands of embroidery floss and the hand embroidery needle, blanket stitch around each of the circle appliqués

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aSSeMble pOt hOlder

wrong side of the remaining Main circle,

then place the appliquéd Main circle

on top right side up, so the batting

is sandwiched between the circles

Pin around the perimeter To make a

hanging loop, fold the

C B

layers Pin the strip in place

embroidery floss, blanket stitch securely around the Main pieces to attach them to each other, enclosing

the batting and catching the hanging loop in the stitches

Kevin Kosbab is a writer, an editor, and

a pattern designer His modern quilts and sewing projects have appeared in Stitch, and his Feed Dog Designs patterns are available on the Web at feeddog.net.

stepping-stones pot holder

TeMplaTe

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Collage Wrap Skirt

Elevate a simple wrap skirt by combining panels of

texture Contrast matte linen with metallic luster, then add a freehand collage of hand embroidery, beading, and appliqué for a one-of-kind de-sign Topstitched seams and a decorative button closure add the finishing touches

(Contrast; shown: sheer silver

polyester drapery fabric)

contrasting fabric for appliqué

(shown: yellow douppioni silk)

— Coordinating thread for Main fabric

— Matching thread for Contrast metallic fabric (optional)

— Beading thread to match your beads (such as Coats & Clark Beading Thread Art D35)

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— Embroidery floss or #3 pearl cotton

(shown: silver metallic embroidery

floss)

— Handsewing needle

— Embroidery needle

— Beading needle (optional)

— Small beads for bead embroidery

(shown: silver beads)

silver metal)

— 2 flat bar-style hook-and-eye closures

— Dressmaker’s carbon and tracing

wheel (optional, for embroidery

design transfer)

— Chalk wheel or erasable fabric

marker

— Tailor’s ham (optional)

— Buttonhole foot for sewing machine

— Serger (optional)

— Full-size pattern starting on Page 22

NOteS

unless otherwise noted

— For the embroidery design, use the

template provided or freehand draw

your own design with a chalk wheel

— The embellished Right Front Skirt lies

on top of the Contrast Left Front Skirt

On the sample shown, the selvedge

edge of the linen was used along

the front vertical edge of the Right

Front Skirt piece for added design

interest If you would like to do this,

keep in mind that when you cut out

your fabric, you will align the selvedge

edge with the fold line marked on the

pattern piece For a hemmed finished

edge, cut the fabric as shown on the

pattern piece

— If your Contrast fabric is sheer (as it is

on the sample skirt) you will overlay it

on your Main fabric, which will be an

underlining Cut 1 Left Front Skirt piece

out of your Contrast fabric and cut 1 Left Front Skirt piece out of your Main fabric If your Contrast fabric is opaque,

no underlining is necessary

— The topstitching on the sample is stitched with a coordinating thread that is a slightly lighter color than the Main fabric color so that the stitching

is more obvious If you would like the stitching to blend in, use a matching thread With coordinating thread, whether it is lighter or darker, the stitching will be more visible than matching thread would be, which means you need to sew carefully to keep the stitches even and maintain

a consistent distance from the seam line or edge

— It is important to use beading thread

to sew beads onto garments because beading thread is made from strong, smooth 100% continuous-filament nylon that is specially treated to resist abrasion and tangling Also, it pulls through fabric effortlessly If you use conventional sewing thread to sew beads onto fabric, over time the fibers

of the thread will be worn thin by the beads, and the beads have a greater chance of falling off

cut the Fabric

the following pattern pieces, referring

to the cutting layout for assistance

Transfer all pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric except for the markings for the button and buttonhole, which should be transferred to the right side of the fabric If it is difficult

to discern the wrong side of the fabric, use a piece of tape to mark your wrong sides to keep all the pieces the same

From the Main fabric, cut:

— 1 Right Front Skirt

— 1 Left Front Skirt

— 1 Skirt Back on the fold

— 1 Right Front Waistband

— 1 Left Front Waistband

— 1 Back Waistband

From the contrast fabric, cut:

— 1 Left Front Skirt

From the interfacing, cut:

— 1 Right Front Waistband

— 1 Left Front Waistband

— 1 Back Waistband Interfacing

aSSeMble the Skirt

edge of the waistline on all skirt pieces (including the Contrast Left Front Skirt,

raw edges

half, with right sides together, matching the transferred dart lines Set your machine stitch length to

2.0 mm and begin sewing at the wide end, backtacking a few stitches, then continue sewing toward the dart point When you get to within a few stitches

of the point, change the stitch length to 1.0 mm and continue through the point and beyond (into nothing), leaving a 4” (10 cm) thread tail Tie a few overhand knots right next to the dart points, then use a handsewing needle to pull the tails to the inside of the dart and out the wide end Remove the needle and trim the thread tails that extend beyond the

Waist Hip CB LengtH X-small 25–26" (63.5–66 cm) 34–36" (86.5–91.5 cm) 241⁄2" (62 cm)

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edge of the waistline Press the darts

toward the center of the Skirt Back For

best results, press them on a tailor’s

ham (you can use a firmly rolled-up

towel in place of a tailor’s ham)

is not sheer, skip this step and go to Step

5 If your Left Front Skirt Contrast fabric

is sheer, place your Left Front Skirt

Main piece on your work surface, right

side facing up With the right side facing

up, place your Left Front Skirt Contrast

piece on top of the Main piece, matching

the notches along the left-hand side

seams, the right-hand front vertical

edges, and the waistline edges Pin the

three sides together and then

machine-baste them together, ½” (1.3 cm) from

the raw edges Finish the layered piece

by folding the front vertical edge ½”

(1.3 cm) to the wrong side and press

Fold to the wrong side again on the

marked fold line and press Using

matching thread, topstitch the folds in

place, ½” (1.3 cm) from the folded edge

You have now assembled the Left Front

Skirt

selvedge edge on the front vertical

edge of the Right Front Skirt instead of

a hemmed edge, this piece is ready to

be stitched to the Skirt Back in Step 6

Otherwise, fold the front edge ½”

(1.3 cm) to the wrong side and press

Fold to the wrong side again on the

marked fold line and press Topstitch

the folds in place, ½” (1.3 cm) from the

folded edge

Left Front Skirt (or assembled Left

Front Skirt) to the Skirt Back, matching

the notches along the side seams Sew

the pieces together, stitching from the

bottom edge to the waistline Follow the

same process to sew the Right Front

Skirt to the Skirt Back

toward the Skirt Back Topstitch the

seam allowances in place, ½” (1.3 cm)

from the side seams

attach the WaiStbaNd

+ FiNiSh the heM

pieces to the wrong sides of the

corresponding Waistband Main fabric pieces, following the manufacturer’s instructions

edges aligned, pin and then sew the Waistband pieces at the side seams to create one continuous piece Press the seam allowances open

lengthwise, with wrong sides together, and then press to make a crease on the long folded edge

with right sides together and with one long edge of the Waistband aligned with the edge of the waistline of the skirt, match the Waistband side seams with the skirt side seams Next, match the center front and center back notches

Pin and then sew the Waistband to the skirt Trim the seam allowances to ¼”

(6 mm) and clip the curved edges as necessary, taking care not to cut into the stitching

opposite side of the waistband, overcast, serge, or zigzag stitch the raw edge Fold the raw short ends of the waistband to the wrong side ½” (1.3 cm)

to match the vertical edges at the front

of the skirt Press

crease to turn the remaining long edge

of the waistband to the inside of the skirt (the waistband is now wrong sides together) From the right side of the skirt, pin in place Make sure the two short ends of the waistband are tucked inside the waistband Sew in place on the waist seam line by stitching in the ditch By hand, slip-stitch the short ends of the waistband closed, using matching thread

buttonhole foot (referring to your sewing machine manual for assistance) Using the markings you transferred from the pattern as your guide, make the buttonhole on the waistband, with matching or coordinating thread

Consider making a sample buttonhole

on a scrap of your fabric, before stitching the buttonhole onto your waistband Remove the buttonhole foot and reinstall the conventional foot

Put a pin in the bartacked ends of the buttonhole to prevent cutting through those stitches and use a seam ripper

or small sharp scissors to carefully cut the buttonhole open Using the button marking as a guide, handsew the button

in place using matching thread

and eyes With the wrong side of the Right Front Skirt facing up, on the buttonhole end of the waistband

finished front vertical edge Make sure

it is centered between the long edges

of the waistband, and then sew the hook in place Insert the button into the buttonhole

To accurately position the corresponding eye, with the buttoned skirt facing right side up, press the buttonhole end of the waistband down onto the Left Front waistband Position the eye directly underneath the hook, centering it between the long edges of the waistband (it will be located between the button and the side seam) and sew the eye in place Unbutton the button With the right side of the Left Front facing up, position

(3 mm) from the finished front vertical edge Sew it in place Button the button and hook the first hook and eye that you stitched in place Matching the folded edges of the top of the waistband on the Right Front and Left Front, work from the button/buttonhole end toward the opposite side, pinning them together

Press the second hook down onto the waistband underneath and position the second eye directly under the second hook Sew the eye in place and remove the pins

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machine-baste the bottom edge of the

skirt, ¼” (6 mm) from the raw edge,

starting and ending 3” (7.5 cm) from

each end Fold the skirt hem ½” (1.3

cm) toward the wrong side and press

Fold the hem over another 1” (2.5 cm)

and press To finish each of the bottom

corners of the two vertical front edges of

the skirt, miter the corners by unfolding

the last fold you made, then take the

bottom corner and fold it to meet the

crease, making a 45-degree angle

(figure 1) Finger press the angled edge,

then refold the hem Pin the hem in

place at the mitered corners, matching

the side seams and the center back

Gently pull the basting stitches to ease

in the excess fabric Topstitch the hem

in place, ¾” (2 cm) from the bottom

edge of the skirt By hand, slip-stitch the

add the eMbelliShMeNtS

fusible web to the wrong side of the

square of appliqué fabric, following the

manufacturer’s instructions Position

the appliqué as desired On the sample

skirt, the appliqué is located about 2” (5

cm) from the front vertical edge and 6”

(15 cm) below the waistline seam (refer

to the photo on page 10) Fuse in place

By machine, use matching thread to

figure 1

crease

sew a satin stitch, zigzag stitch, or other decorative stitch around the perimeter

of the appliqué A satin stitch was used

on the sample skirt

using dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel or an erasable fabric marker (to use a fabric marker, trace the design, using a light table

or bright window if necessary) For a custom look, freehand draw your own embroidery design line

all the strands of your embroidery floss together or use pearl cotton and then chain-stitch along the transferred or drawn line (see Sewing Basics)

thread to sew on the beads, stitching through each bead twice to secure it

to the fabric Arrange the beads as desired, or in a loose circular pattern

at the interior point of the embroidered line (refer to the photo on page 10

to see the arrangement used on the sample)

tricia Waddell is the former editor in chief of Stitch When she’s not working, she’s sewing.

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PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE

CAT HEAD/BODY cut 2 on fold

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR

+ MINI MOUSE

CAT FACE

BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE

MOUSE EAR cut 4

PRETTY C

AT, BAB

Y BEAR + MINI MOUSE

MOUSE BOD Y

cut 2 on f old

BEAR NOSE cut 1

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR +

old

BEAR EAR cut 4

cut on f old

cut on fold

cut on f old

optional color change

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+ MINI MOUSE

CAT SKIRT cut 2 on fold

+ MINI MOUSE

CAT HEAD/BODY cut 2 on fold

cut on f

old

cut on fold

1c

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+ MINI MOUSE

CAT FACE cut 1 PRETTY CAT,

BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE

MOUSE EAR cut 4

old

cut on f

old

Trang 20

PRETTY C

Y BEAR + MINI MOUSE

BEAR LEGS cut 2 on f

old

BEAR EAR cut 4

cut on fold

cut on f old

2c

Trang 21

BEAR POCKET cut 2 fabric cut 1 interfacing

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR +

MINI MOUSE

BEAR FACE cut 1

3a

Trang 22

sew daily

XL

M XS

XL

M XS

COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT

back waistband cut 1 main

COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT

Trang 23

sew daily

Trang 24

sew daily

The Right Front Waistband piece

is on the lower layer, beneath the Left Front Waist- band piece

Cutting layout

Trang 26

1b

Trang 27

1c

Trang 28

1d

Trang 29

1e

Định dạng
Số trang	58
Dung lượng	2,01 MB