Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 131 Process control in textile manufacturing Edited by Abhijit Majumdar, Apurba Das, R.. Contents Contributor contact details xi Woodhead
Trang 3Process control in textile manufacturing
Trang 4The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing
The Textile Institute is a unique organisation in textiles, clothing and wear Incorporated in England by a Royal Charter granted in 1925, the Institute has individual and corporate members in over 90 countries The aim of the Institute is to facilitate learning, recognise achievement, reward excellence and disseminate information within the global textiles, clothing and footwear industries
Historically, The Textile Institute has published books of interest to its
members and the textile industry To maintain this policy, the Institute has entered into partnership with Woodhead Publishing Limited to ensure that Institute members and the textile industry continue to have access to high calibre titles on textile science and technology
Most Woodhead titles on textiles are now published in collaboration with The Textile Institute Through this arrangement, the Institute provides
an Editorial Board which advises Woodhead on appropriate titles for future publication and suggests possible editors and authors for these books Each book published under this arrangement carries the Institute’s logo
Woodhead books published in collaboration with The Textile Institute are offered to Textile Institute members at a substantial discount These books, together with those published by The Textile Institute that are still in print, are offered on the Woodhead web site at: www.woodheadpublishing.com Textile Institute books still in print are also available directly from the Institute’s web site at: www.textileinstitutebooks.com
A list of Woodhead books on textiles science and technology, most of which have been published in collaboration with the Textile Institute, can
be found towards the end of the contents pages
Trang 5Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 131
Process control in textile manufacturing
Edited by Abhijit Majumdar, Apurba Das, R Alagirusamy
and V K Kothari
Oxford Cambridge Philadelphia New Delhi
Trang 6Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Limited, 80 High Street, Sawston, Cambridge CB22 3HJ, UK www.woodheadpublishing.com
First published 2013, Woodhead Publishing Limited
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2012949006
ISBN 978-0-85709-027-0 (print)
ISBN 978-0-85709-563-3 (online)
ISSN 2042-0803 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles (print)
ISSN 2042-0811 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles (online)
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Trang 7Contents
Contributor contact details xi
Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xiv
Foreword xix
1 Basics of process control in textile manufacturing 3
V EDPAL and V J AIN , Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India
1.2 Process mapping, analysis and control 5
1.3 Statistical process control (SPC) and improving processes 9
2 Basic principles of control systems in textile
manufacturing 14
S S SAHA, Government College of Engineering & Textile
Technology, Berhampore, India
2.3 The control system design process 28
2.5 Intelligent control systems using soft computing 36
2.6 Application of control systems in textile processing 39
3 Testing and statistical quality control in textile
manufacturing 41
A D AS , Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India
3.1 Introduction: statistical quality control 41
3.2 Basic measurement concepts in statistical quality control 42
Trang 8vi Contents
3.3 Interpretations: critical difference 48
3.4 Interpretations: ‘t’ tests, ‘ F ’ tests and the chi-square method 53
3.5 Decision-making using control charts 57
3.6 Decision-making: hypothesis testing 59
3.7 Decision-making: signifi cance testing 61
3.8 Testing fi bre and yarn properties 72
Part II Process control in fi bre production and
4 Process and quality control in cultivating
M Z IMNIEWSKA , Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants,
Poland, I F RYDRYCH , Technical University of Lodz, Poland,
J M ANKOWSKI , Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants,
Poland, and W T RYWIANSKA , Gdynia Cotton Association, Poland
4.2 Control of cotton fi bre quality 81
4.3 Indexes for cotton fi bre quality 85
4.5 Control of natural lignocellulosic/bast fi bre quality: climatic
conditions 96
5 Process control in the manufacturing of synthetic
B L D EOPURA , Indian Institute of Technology Delhi,
India, A C HATTERJEE , Dr B R Ambedkar National Institute of
Technology Jalandhar, India and N V P ADAKI , CSTRI Central
Silk Board, India
5.2 Process control in polymerisation and fi bre spinning 111
5.3 Post-spinning process control: drawing and heat setting 122
5.4 Key control points in synthetic fi bre manufacture 127
Trang 9Contents vii
6 Process control in blowroom and carding operations 132
R ALAGIRUSAMY, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India
6.1 Introduction to blowroom operations 132
6.2 General process control in the blowroom 135
6.3 Process control in blowroom processes 137
6.4 Process control in carding: control of process parameters 142
6.5 Process control in carding: control of card clothing, wire
6.6 Yarn count issues and other common process control
problems for blowroom and carding operations 153
7 Process control in drawing, combing and speed frame
operations 158
A GHOSH, Government College of Engineering & Textile
Technology, Berhampore, India, and A MAJUMDAR, Indian Institute
of Technology Delhi, India
7.2 Process control in drawing: key elements 159
7.3 The impact of drawing on yarn quality 164
7.4 Process control in drawing: common problems 166
7.5 Process control in combing: key elements 171
7.6 Process control in combing: the impact of combing
on yarn quality and common problems arising from
7.7 Process control in speed frame operations:
7.8 Process control in speed frame operations: the impact
of speed frame operations on yarn quality and common
8 Process control in ring and rotor spinning 191
P K MAJUMDAR, Government College of Engineering & Textile
Technology, Serampore, India
8.2 Factors affecting spinning tension in ring spinning 195
8.3 Control of end breakage rate in ring spinning 202
Trang 109 Maintenance of yarn spinning machines 225
A B ASU , Central Silk Board, India
S C RAY, University of Calcutta, India
10.2 Key control points in knitting 244 10.3 Quality control of knitted fabrics 248 10.4 Control of knitted loop length 251 10.5 Common faults in knitted fabrics 253 10.6 Other process control factors in knitting 259 10.7 Future trends: online quality control 262
V K K OTHARI , Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India
Trang 11Contents ix
12 Process control in nonwovens production 279
D MOYO, A PATANAIK and R D ANANDJIWALA, CSIR Materials
Science and Manufacturing, South Africa, and Department of Textile
Science, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University, South Africa
12.2 Needle punching: process variables and process control 280
12.3 Hydroentanglement: process variables and process control 285
12.4 Melt blowing: process variables and process control 288
12.5 Spunbonding: process variables and process control 292
12.7 Sources of further information 296
13 Process control in dyeing of textiles 300
S M SHANG, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, China
13.5 Process control in batchwise dyeing machines 326
13.6 Process control in continuous dyeing machines 334
14 Process control in printing of textiles 339
S M SHANG, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, China
14.3 Discharge, resist and heat transfer printing 345
14.4 Process control in roller and screen printing machines 348
14.5 Inkjet printing and its process control 353
14.6 Product safety and low-carbon production 360
14.7 Sources of further information 361
15 Process control in fi nishing of textiles 363
A K ROY CHOUDHURY, Government College of Engineering
and Textile Technology, Serampore, India
Trang 1215.7 Surface raising and pre-shrinking fi nishes 385
15.11 Protection from fi re damage and water penetration 401
15.13 Other types of fi nishing: antistatic, soil release,
15.14 Wool treatment and enzyme fi nishes 413
16 Process control in apparel manufacturing 428
G.THILAGAVATHI and S.VIJU, PSG College of Technology, India
16.2 Process control in spreading, pattern making and cutting 428
16.4 Causes of damage to the fabric during sewing 441 16.5 Control of fusing and pressing operations, storage
16.6 Quality evaluation of apparel: testing for tailorability 454 16.7 Quality evaluation of apparel: testing for sewability 463 16.8 Quality evaluation of accessories 465
Index 475
Trang 13
Contributor contact details
(* main contact)
Editors
Dr Abhijit Majumdar,* Dr Apurba
Das, Prof R Alagirusamy and
Prof Vijay Kumar Kothari
Department of Textile Technology
Indian Institute of Technology
Government College of Engineering & Textile Technology
Berhampore West Bengal – 742101 India
Email: sahashib@hotmail.com
Chapter 3
Dr Apurba Das Department of Textile Technology Indian Institute of Technology Delhi
Hauz Khas New Delhi - 110016 India
Email: apurba@textile.iitd.ernet.in
Chapter 4
Dr M Zimniewska* I Frydrych and
J Mankowski Department of Innovative Textile Technologies
Trang 14xii Contributor contact details
Institute of Natural Fibres and
Department of Textile Technology
Indian Institute of Technology
Department of Textile Technology
Indian Institute of Technology
Hauz Khas New Delhi - 110016 India
Email: majumdar@textile.iitd.ac.in
Chapter 8
Prof Prabal Kumar Majumdar Department of Textile Technology Government College of
Engineering and Textile Technology
Serampore - 712201 Dt Hooghly (W.B.)
India Email: pkm5@rediffmail.com
Chapter 9
Dr Arindam Basu Central Silk Technological Research Institute Central Silk Board Madivala, BTM Layout Bangalore - 560068 India
Email: arindambasu_dr@yahoo.co.in
Chapter 10
Prof Sadhan Chandra Ray Professor in Fabric Manufacture Department of Jute and Fibre Technology
University of Calcutta
35 Ballygunge Circular Road Kolkata - 700019
India Email: sadhan53@yahoo.co.in
Trang 15Contributor contact details xiii
Chapter 11
Prof Vijay Kumar Kothari
Department of Textile Technology
Indian Institute of Technology
Department of Textile Science
Nelson Mandela Metropolitan
Hung Hom Kowloon Hong Kong China Email: tcshang@inet.polyu.edu.hk
Chapter 15
Prof Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury Department of Textile Technology Government College of
Engineering and Textile Technology
Serampore - 712201 Dt Hooghly (W.B.)
India Email: akrc2008@yahoo.in
Chapter 16
G.Thilagavathi * and S.Viju Department of Fashion Technology PSG College of Technology Peelamedu
Coimbatore - 641004 Tamilnadu
India Email: thilagapsg@gmail.com
Trang 16Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles
1 Watson’s textile design and colour Seventh edition
Edited by Z Grosicki
2 Watson’s advanced textile design
Edited by Z Grosicki
3 Weaving Second edition
P R Lord and M H Mohamed
4 Handbook of textile fi bres Vol 1: Natural fi bres
7 New fi bers Second edition
T Hongu and G O Phillips
8 Atlas of fi bre fracture and damage to textiles Second edition
J W S Hearle, B Lomas and W D Cooke
12 Handbook of technical textiles
Edited by A R Horrocks and S C Anand
13 Textiles in automotive engineering
W Fung and J M Hardcastle
14 Handbook of textile design
21 Yarn texturing technology
J W S Hearle, L Hollick and D K Wilson
22 Encyclopedia of textile fi nishing
H-K Rouette
xiv
Trang 17Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xv
23 Coated and laminated textiles
W Fung
24 Fancy yarns
R H Gong and R M Wright
25 Wool: Science and technology
Edited by W S Simpson and G Crawshaw
26 Dictionary of textile fi nishing
29 Textile processing with enzymes
Edited by A Cavaco-Paulo and G Gübitz
30 The China and Hong Kong denim industry
Y Li, L Yao and K W Yeung
31 The World Trade Organization and international denim trading
Y Li, Y Shen, L Yao and E Newton
32 Chemical fi nishing of textiles
W D Schindler and P J Hauser
33 Clothing appearance and fi t
J Fan, W Yu and L Hunter
34 Handbook of fi bre rope technology
H A McKenna, J W S Hearle and N O’Hear
35 Structure and mechanics of woven fabrics
38 Analytical electrochemistry in textiles
P Westbroek, G Priniotakis and P Kiekens
39 Bast and other plant fi bres
43 New millennium fi bers
T Hongu, M Takigami and G O Phillips
44 Textiles for protection
48 Medical textiles and biomaterials for healthcare
Edited by S C Anand, M Miraftab, S Rajendran and J F Kennedy
49 Total colour management in textiles