Garment Wash - METHOD OF APPLICATION

10-Wash down effects It can be achieved by a variety of garment processing techniques which are mainly dependent on physical and on chemical abrasion of the surface dye there by producin

Finishing is the heart of textile processing.

Value addition = {(Technology) + (Innovation)}

x Quality

The need for competitive strategy that utilizes;

• Chemical compatibility to provide one-shot multifunctional finishes

• Cost reduction through process integration and

minimizing the consumption of all utilities

• More environmentally friendly and application method

• Cost reduction through minimization of effluent treatment cost

• Improve process control, monitoring and automation

• Greater innovation in chemical finishes

• Quick response through right-first-time, right-on �time, right-every-time finishing

Finishing of textile fabric is carried out to

increase attractiveness and/or serviceability of

the fabric

Different finishing treatments are available to get various effects, which add value to the basic textile material

The domestic readymade garment sector is booming, and garment processing has emerged

as one of the important production routes towards meeting quick changing demands of the fashion market

• Rotate the garment for 20 min.

• Hydro extract the garment to 70 to 80% pick up

• Tumble dry at 70°C to moisture content 10—12 %

• Turn the garment right side out

• Iron/steam press the garment to set the creases at desired places

• Cure at 150—160°C

Tumble method:

-• In this process the garment are placed (inside out) into a machine with sealed (not perforated) cylinder and

application of recipe by either pumping or spraying

• The drum is turned for 20 min there should not be

excessive dripping of chemicals from the garment If so more tumbling time is allowed

• This method is being used more and more due to the fact that there is no wastage of chemicals

• After saturation the garments are hydro extracted tumble dry at 70°C to 10—20 % pick up moisture content

• The iron and steam press the garments to remove/set

creases Cure at 150—160°C for 8 -10 min

Important features:

-• MLR should not be less than 1: 0.85 for the

garment weighing 600 gm and 1:1 for those

weighing more than 600 gm.

• Minimum time of tumbling should be 20 min.

• Tumble rotation speed 20-30 rpm.

• Tumble drying temp Should not be more than 70°C.

• Moisture retention after drying should be 12%.

10-Wash down effects

It can be achieved by a variety of garment processing techniques which are mainly dependent on physical and

on chemical abrasion of the surface dye there by producing different wash down or break-in looks

In garment washing the seams, waistband, pockets, cuffs, etc develop a contour, which can be obtained by washing

in garment from only

Washing down of garments is the latest development in fashion technology Washing brings out special effects

changing the feel and look of garments

Five good reasons can be attributed for washing the garments.

 To influence physical properties such as

softness, handle, drape or fall , absorbency,

creasing etc.

 To influence appearance by altering the nature

of yarn of fabric or lusture.

 To create shrinkage & effects of shrinkage like

puckering of garments.

 To create abrasion & related effects.

 To create a trend in fashion with consistent

quality & brand image with range of finishes.

Fashion Trends Favor The Broken-in Look And Worn/Faded seams

that can only be achieved through garment processing

DENIM WASHES ARE OF TWO TYPES :

1 Mechanical washes

–Stone wash – Micro sanding

2 Chemical washes

–Denim bleaching –Enzyme wash

–Acid wash

Any of these procedures can be modified

To fit a particular situation, Depending upon garment type (i.e., heavyweight denim versus lightweight

PROCEDURE

1 Garments can be inverted to minimize unwanted abrasion streaks

(especially useful when preset creases are present)

2 Load machine with garments

3 Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent

4 Drain

5 Rinse

6 Fill machine with water and heat to 60◦C The liquor ratio can range from 10:1 to 20:1 A number of synthetic detergents can be used Also, alkaline products such as soda ash or caustic soda can be added in amounts ranging from 0.5 to 2.0 grams/liter Some chemical suppliers offer special products that accelerate the wash down process, dependent upon the particular

dyestuff used

7 Wash/tumble action for 20-60 minutes, depending upon desired effect

8 Drain and rinse

9 Apply softener

10 Tumble dry

11 Invert garments, if previously turned

12 Press, if required

• In the process of stone washing, freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large washing machines and tumbled with pumice stones

• It means Pre washed, abraded, faded either regular or irregular looks are produced by subjecting the dyed garments to severe washing treatments

• In order to accelerate the garment wash effect and to give garments an even more unique appearance, desirable look and softer hand, abrasive stones

were introduced to the wash bath

• Variations in composition, hardness, size shape and porosity make these stones multifunctional The process is quite expensive and requires high capital investment.

• Pumice stones give the additional effect of a

faded or worn look as it abrades the surface

of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye particles from the surfaces of the yarn.

• A variety of natural and synthetic stones are available for stonewashing with perhaps the

most widely used being pumice or volcanic

rock.

As the stones are used, they slowly disintegrate, reducing the severity of the stonewash effect over

a period of time

The stones not only abrade the fabric but also

gradually abrade the inside of the rotary drum

A machine used for st onewashing should not be used to dye delicate articles or when abrasion

would be detrimental to the fabric

It’s gives used look because of varying degrees

of abrasion in areas such as the waistband,

pocket and seems

Degree of colour fading

Garments to stone ratioWashing time

Size of stoneMLR

Load of garmentsStone weight 0.5-3

Selection of stone

• Stone should be selected of the proper hardness, shape, and size for the particular end product

• It should be noted that large, hard stones last longer and may

be suited for heavy weight fabrics only

• Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight fabrics

and more delicate items.

• STONE WT /FABRIC WT = 0.5 TO 3 /1

• It depends on the degree of abrasion needed to achieve the

desired result

• Stones can be reused until they completely disintegrate or

washed down the drain

PROCEDURE

1 Load stones into machine

2 Load garments into machine (ratio usually 0.5 - 3.0 part weight stones:1 part weight garments)

3 Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent Liquor ratio approximately 5-8:1

4 Rinse

5 Refill and tumble with stones 30 to 90 minutes, depending

upon desired effect Liquor ratio 5-8:1 at 50-70◦C Scouring additives can also be used

6 Drain Separate garments from stones (garments can be transferred to another machine)

7 Rinse

8 Apply softener (garments can be transferred to another machine for softening)

9 Extract and unload

10 De-stone and tumble dry

11 Press, if required

BACK STAINING OR RE-DEPOSITION:

• The dye removed from denim material after the treatment with cellulose or by a conventional washing process may cause "back staining” or

"redeposition”.

• Re-coloration of blue threads and blue coloration

of white threads, resulting in less contrast between blue and white threads.

PROBLEMS CAUSED BY STONES:

• Damage to wash machineries and garment due to stone to machine and machine to stone abrasion

• Increase in labor to remove dust from finished

garments.

• Water pollution during disposal of used liquor.

• Back staining and re deposition.

REMEDY OF BACK STAINING

• Adding dispersion/suspension agent to

wash cycle.

• Intermediate replacement of wash liquor.

• Using alkaline detergent like sodium per

borate with optical brightener as after wash

LIMITATIONS OF STONE WASHING:

• Quality of the abrasion process is difficult to control

outcome of a load of jeans is never uniform, little

percentage always getting ruined by too much abrasion

• The process is non-selective

• Metal buttons and rivets on the jeans in the washing

machines get abraded

• This reduces quality of the products and life of equipment, and increases production costs

• Stones may turn into powder during the process of making the garment grayish in color and rough too

• Provides rougher feel than enzyme wash

• Stone may lead the harm to the machine parts

STONEWASH EFFECT:

• In traditional washing process, volcanic rocks or pumice stones are added to the garments during washing as abradant Due to ring dyeing and heavy abrasion fading is more apparent but less

uniform

• The degree of colour fading depends on the garment to stone ratio, washing time, size of stones, material to liquor ratio and load of garments

• Normally after desizing, stone wash process starts with pumice stone addition in rotary drum type garment washer

• Process time varies from 60-120 mins

• Stone wash effect is one of the oldest but highly demanded

washing effects

• Stone wash process gives “used” look or “vintage” on the garments, because of varying degree of abrasion in the area such as waistband, pocket, seam and body.

• There are many limitations and drawbacks associated with stone washing process, which can be overcome by using new enzyme based washing technology

• This technology also helps to conserve water, time,

energy and environment

ENZYME WASH

• Cellulase enzymes are natural proteins which are used in denim garment processing to get stone wash look on to the denim garments without

using stones or by reducing the use of pumice

Cellulase enzyme is classified into two

It works best at pH 6 however its activity

is not adversely affected in the range of pH 6-8 and show maximum activity at 55°C.

Neutral Cellulase:

These are the enzymes which are active between pH: 6-8

• lower abrasion than acid celluloses

• low back staining

Acid cellulose

Recipe and Condition

 Cellulose 450 AP (OWG) 0.5 – 1 gm/l

 Lube pro VX ( crease inhibitor) 0.5 – 1 gm/l

 White MRC (anti-redepositing agent) 1 – 2 gm/l

 Treat at 50C and pH – 5 for 30-45 mins

Neutral cellulose

Recipe and Condition

 Americos cellucom 110 OM (OWG) 0.5 – 1 gm/l

 Lube pro VX ( crease inhibitor) 0.5 – 1 gm/l

 Americos White MRC (anti-redepositing agent) 1 – 2gm/l

 Treat at 50C and pH – 5 for 30-45 mins

;

PROCEDURE

1 Load stones in machine (normally 0.5 - 2.0 part

weight stones: 1 part weight garments) if

6 Adjust pH as recommended

7 Tumble 30-90 minutes

14 Extract and unload

15 De-stone and tumble dry

16 Press, if require

Advantage of enzyme washing

• Soft handle and attractive clean appearance is obtained

without severe damage to the surface of yarn

• Simple process handling and minimum effluent problem

• Better feel to touch and increased gloss or luster

• Prevents tendency of pilling after relatively short period of wear

• Can be applied on cellulose and its blend

• Due to mild condition of treatment process is less corrosive

• Fancy colour - flenced surface can be obtained without or a partial use of stone

• More reproducible effect can be obtained

• It allows more loading of the garment into machines

• Environmental friendly treatment.

• Less damage to seam edges and badges.

• Wear and tear of equipment is minimum due to absence of stone.

• Use of softener can be avoided or minimised.

• Easy handling of floor and severs as messy

sludge of stones does not interfere.

• Due to absence of stone, labour intensive

operation of stone removal is not required.

• Homogenous abrasion of the garments.

• Puckering effect can also be obtained

ACID WASH

• It is done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones

presoaked in a solution of sodium hypochlorite (5 to 10%) or potassium permanganate (3 to 6%) for localized bleaching

resulting in a non uniform sharp blue/white contrast

• To remove the colour only on the surface of the garment and produces a frosted appearance

• In this wash the color contrast of the denim fabric can be

enhanced by optical brightening

• The advantage of this process is that it saves water as addition

of water is not required

 Soak the stones in solution of sodium hypochlorite (5 to 10%) or potassium permanganate (3 to 6%) for 1-2 hrs

 Stones should be drained of excess liquor with help of mesh

 Placed stones and garments in machine

 Tumble for 30 mins or until desire effects are achieved Results are dependent up on the dyestuff, fabric, and concentration of

chemical, stones, additives, and equipment

 In some cases, stones can be used ( resoaking, porosity )

 Rinse

 Apply softener

 Tumble dry

 Press, if req

Limitations of acid wash:

• Acid washed, indigo dyed denim has a tendency to yellow after wet processing

• The major cause is residual manganese due to incomplete neutralization, washing or rinsing.

Remedy:

• Manganese is effectively removed during laundering with addition of ethelene- diamine -tetra acetic acid as chelating agent

• Acid washing jeans avoided some of problems of stone

wash, but came with added dangers, expenses, and

pollution

Used in various ways:

-• Flat surfaces (tables, ironing boards)

• On the dummy (inflatable dummies,

sometimes standing, sometimes flat,

sometimes 'seated')

• Various templates can be used to create a 3D effect.

SAND BLASTING

Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in granular, powdered or other form through a nozzle at very high speed and pressure onto specific areas of the garment surface to be treated to give the desired distressed/ abraded/used look

• It is purely mechanical process, not using any chemicals

• It is a water free process therefore no drying required

• Variety of distressed or abraded looks possible

• Any number of designs could be created by special techniques

Advantages :

 Pure chemical process

 Water free process therefore no need

Wrinkle Free Finish (or) Anticrease Finish (Or) Wash-

N- Wear Finish

• Cotton fabrics are mainly selected for apparels because of their durability, ability to with stand the rough laundering,

good absorption, comfort to wear and ability to take up a

wide range of dyestuffs

• The main headache with the cotton fabric is CREASE

formation during washing, laundering and in use It is an

undesirable property and hence the crease resistant finish is

to be given It is called as Anti-crease finish or Crease

resistant or Crease recovery finish or 'Wash-n- Wear‘

finishes

Object of Anti-crease finish

• Cotton, viscose fabrics form creases during washing,

laundering and in use

• To prevent it, the anti-crease finish is given It is called as Anti-crease finish or Crease resistant or Crease recovery finish or 'Wash-n- Wear' finishes

• As the resins are used, it is also called as 'Resin finishing'

It is a permanent chemical finish

• To keep the fabric flat smooth and free from undesirable creases