Stitch - Stitch types of designation

Class 200: is a hand stitch type, is formed by single thread passed from one side of the material to the other in successive needle penetrations.. Class 300:is a lock stitch type, is for

Stitch

Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir ID: 2010000400008

13th Batch (session 2009-2013) Department : Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com Blog : www Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)

Southeast University Department Of Textile Engineering I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh

Prepared By :

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Stitch is a Unit or Loop in a seam Which is produced by three principle Inter looping, Intra looping, Inter lacing

Inter looping : Loop of one thread passes through the loop of another thread

Intra looping : Loop of one thread passes through the loop of same thread

Inter Lacing: One thread passes over another thread

Stitch:

Textile stitch types-classification and terminology, stitches are catalogued into six classes (as per BS3870/ASTM D-6193/ISO 4915:1991) The international and standardization uses the identical numbering.

Stitch quality

Stitch quality is measured with stitch size (stitch length, width, and depth) tension, sequence, elongation, elasticity, resilience, fabric distortion, yarn severance, abrasive strength

Class 100:

is chain stitch type, is formed with one or more needle threads introduced from one side of the material only

 chain stitch is elastic and thicker than lockstitch and can easily be ravelled;

 particular care is required to prevent runback from the last stitch

 Used for temporary stitching or for Blind stitching

Class 200:

is a hand stitch type, is formed by single thread passed from one side of the material to the other in successive needle penetrations

 a slow process and need huge manpower to finish bulk order

 Used for handwork

Stitch types of designation

Class 300:

is a lock stitch type, is formed by a needle thread or threads, introduced from one side of the material, interlacing with an under thread

 supplied from a bobbin on the other side

 low bulk and thin, good strength and abrasion resistance

 Poor elasticity, non ravel

 limited sewing length, need to replace bobbin thread

 for seams requiring stretch

Class 400:

is multi thread chain stitch type, is formed with two/more groups of threads having general characteristic of interlacing interloping of the loops of the two groups

 non ravel, strong, good elasticity, less likely to cause seam pucker due to structural jamming

 good seam stretch

 does not need to wind bobbin

 lower resistance to runback and have increased bulk under the seam

Class 500:

is over lock over edge stitch type, is formed with one or more needles and/or loopier threads with at least one thread passing round the edge

of the material being sewn

 Excellent stretchable good recovery

 Seam or edge neatening

 suitable for many types of fabric

 subject to fraying or slippage

Class 600:

is formed with two or more groups of threads, has for a general characteristic that two groups of thread cover surfaces of the material

 High elasticity, seam neatening and Flat seam stitch, Bulk, Fast machine speed

 No need of Bobbin

 Greater thread consumption

 Covering stitches for decorative purpose, Can be used to join two raw edges, suitable for knitted garments

Stitch types of designation

Types of Stitch:

1 Stitch Class- 100 (Single thread chain stitch).

2 Stitch Class- 200 (Hand Stitch).

3 Stitch Class- 300 (Lock Stitch).

4 Stitch Class- 400 (Multi thread chain stitch).

5 Stitch Class- 500 (Over lock stitch).

6 Stitch Class- 600 (Covering chain stitch).

Types of Stitch:

Stitch Class-100(Single thread chain stitch):

1. In this stitch -one loop passing through another loop of same thread

2. Security of this seam is poor/not satisfactory

3. Only one needle thread is used for making this stitch

4. It is also used blind stitch purpose

Subclass:

Stitch Class 103 (Blind Stitch); use in Heming

Stitch Class 103 (Blind Stitch); use in Heming

Usages:

Hemming, button attaching, button holing, gathering and temporary positioning of garment component and purpose

Stitch Class-100 (Single thread chain stitch):

Sub-Classes: Stitch Class-100

Sub-Class - 101:

Uses: It is used for blasting (temporary stitching) e.g Blazer components joining before final sewing to cooperate sewing.

Sub-Class -103: Blind Stitch.

Feature:

One side is invisible and other side is like chain

Use: Bottom hemming of dress pants.

Stitch Class-200(Hand Stitch):

 This stitch is produced for longer length sewing

 Use for costly garments

 Need more time and skilled operator

Sub-Classes:

Sub-Class- 202: This type of stitch is formed by hand

Sub-Class- 209: This type of stitch is formed by “Pique Stitch Machine’’

Uses: Lapel of Blazer, collar of shirt, saddle stitch etc

Saddle Stitch: A special type of stitch which is formed by Pique Stitch Machine using Thick thread It is used in Cowboy Jeans

Stitch Class-200 (Hand Stitch)

Stitch Class-200 (Hand Stitch)

This type of stitch is formed with one thread It is a machine made version of traditional hand stitching sometimes referred to as Saddle Stitch.

Stitch Class-300(Lock Stitch):

1. Both Sides are same

Lock stitch is extensively used for joining fabrics collar, cuff, pocket, facing etc Top stitching is used for button holing, attaching, blind stitching etc

Stitch Class-300 ( Lock Stitch):

Subclass: 301, 304.

Sub-Classes : Stitch Class-300

This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one bobbin thread (B) A loop of thread (A) is passed through the material and interlaced with thread (B) Thread (A) is then pulled back so that the interlacing is midway between surfaces of the material or materials being sewn Ideally, this stitch should have a 1 : 1 ratio of needle to bobbin thread.

The 304 stitch formation is commonly referred to as the Zig-Zag Lockstitch To produce the zig-zag appearance, the needle bar moves laterally as the material is fed This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one bobbin thread (B) A loop of thread (A) is passed through the material and interlaced with thread (B) Thread (A) is then pulled back so that the interlacing is midway between surfaces of the material or materials being sewn Ideally, this stitch should have a 1 : 1 ratio of needle to bobbin thread

Sub-Classes : Stitch Class-300

Stitch Class- 400(Multithread chain stitch):

1. Security is higher than lock stitch

2. One or more thread is used

3. One group is called upper thread and another group is called looper thread (under thread)

4. Higher production than lock stitch due to use large package

5. It is widely use for making knitted garments

Hemming: Hem is the end of the garment and the process of making hem is called hemming

Stitch Class- 400 (Multithread chain stitch)

Stitch Class- 400 (Multithread chain stitch)

Subclass:

401(1n+1l); Use in Jens

406(2n+2l); Use in T-Shirt (Heming) (Flat Lock)

407(3n+1l) Use in Brief’s (Flat Lock)

Usages:

This type of stitches is used foe sewing lace, braid and elastic Stitch type-401 is used in jeans and trouser

Sub-Classes : Stitch Class- 400

Sub-Classes : Stitch Class- 400

This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one looper thread (B) Loops of thread (A) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B) These interloopings are drawn up against the underside of the bottom ply of the material being sewn

The 404 stitch formation is commonly referred to as the Zig-Zag Chainstitch Its formation is similar to the 401stitch To produce the zig-zag appearance, the needle bar moves laterally as the material is fed This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one looper thread (B) Loops of thread (A) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B) These interloopings are drawn up against the underside of the bottom ply of the material being sewn

Sub-Classes : Stitch Class- 400

This type of stitch is formed with three threads: two needle threads (A & A1) and one looper thread (B) Loops of the needle threads (A & A1) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B) These interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the material being sewn

This type of stitch is formed with fourthreads: three needle threads (A, A1 & A2) and one looper thread (B) Loops of the needle threads (A, A1 & A2) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B) These interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the material being sewn

Sub-Classes : Stitch Class- 400

This type of stitch is formed using five threads; two needle threads (A & A1), two looper threads (B & B1) and one Top covering thread (C) This stitch is two rows

of 401 two thread chainstitch with a top covering thread laid on the upper surface of the material being sewn

Loops of the threads (A & A1) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of threads (B & B1) The top covering thread (C) is laid between and around the needle threads on the surface of

the material The interloopings of the neeedle and looper threads are drawn up against the underside of the bottom ply of the material being sewn

Stitch Class- 500(Over Lock Stitch):

1. To prevent fraying out of loss yarn

2. Use to make knitted garments

3. Also use for decorative purpose

Subclass:

British Standard:

503(1n+1l); Use for edging

504(1n+2l); Use for edging & light seaming

514(2n+2l); Use edging & Heavy seaming

American Standard: Combination Stitch

515(401 + 503); Use for edging & sewing

516(401 + 504); Use for edging & sewing

Usages: This stitch type can be used to make a decorative edge

Stitch Class- 500 (Over Lock Stitch)

Uses: For edging & heavy seaming

Sub-Classes : Stitch Class- 500

Sub-Classes : Stitch Class- 500

This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one looper thread (B) Loops of the needle thread (A) are passed through the material and brought to the edge where they are interlooped with thread (B) The loops of thread (B) are extended from this interlooping to the point of needle penetration of the next stitch and there are interlooped with thread (A)

This type of stitch is formed with three threads: one needle thread (A), one lower looper thread (B), and one upper looper thread (C) Loops of the needle thread (A) are passed through the material and

interlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material

The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of the upper looper thread (C)

Sub-Classes : Stitch Class- 500

This type of stitch is formed with three threads: one needle thread (A), one lower looper thread (B), and one upper looper thread (C) Loops of the needle thread (A) are passed through the material and interlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material

The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of the upper looper thread (C) Loops of thread (C) are extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of the next stitch and there, they are interlooped with thread (A)

Stitch type 505 is very similar to stitch type 504 The main difference is that in stitch type 505 the lower looper thread (B) Is tighter and the needle thread (A)

is looser than in stitch type 504 Stitch type 505 is a three thread version of stitch type 503

Sub-Classes : Stitch Class- 500

This type of stitch is formed with four threads: two needle threads (A & A1) a lower looper thread (B) and an upper looper thread (C) Loops of the needle threads (A & a1) are passed through the material and interlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material

The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of thread (C) Loops of thread (C) are extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of the next stitch and there, interlooped with thread (A)

This type of stitch is formed with four threads: two needle threads (A & A1) a lower looper thread (B) and an upper looper thread (C) Loops of the needle threads (A & a1) are passed through the material and interlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration

on the underside of the material The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of thread (C)

Loops of thread (C) are extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of the next stitch and there, interlooped with threads (A & A1)

Sub-Classes : Stitch Class- 500

This type of stitch is formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch 401, using threads (A

& B), a specified distance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 503 using threads (A1 & B1) on the edge of the material

Stitch Class-600(Covering Chain Stitch):

1. At least three (1n+2l) set of thread are use

2. This stitch is use in undergarments to attach lace, braid or elastic

3. This Stitch is also use to join side by side of fabric without increasing thickness

Subclass:

602; Use for decorative purpose

605; Use for decorative purpose

406; Use for T-Shirt/ Polo shirt heading

Usages:

This type of stitch is used for sewing under wear for attaching lace, braid elasticity

Stitch Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch)

Sub-Classes : Stitch Class-600

Sub-Classe-602: 2Needle + 2Looper

Use: Sleeve and bottom hem of T-shirt, Polo-shirt & decorative purpose

Sub-Classe-605: 3Needle + 2Looper

Uses: For decorative purpose & elastic attaching of under garments

Sub-Classe-606: 4Needle + 5Looper

Uses: Not used in our country

Sub-Classes : Stitch Class-600

This type of stitch is formed with 4 threads: two needle threads (A) and (A1) ; one looper thread (B); and one cover thread (C) Loops of thread (A) and (A1) are passed through loops of thread (C) already cast on the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread (B) on the underside

This type of stitch is formed with 5 threads: three needle threads (A), (A1) & (A2) ; one looper thread (B); and one cover thread (C) Loops of thread (A), (A1) and (A2) are passed through loops of thread (C) already cast on the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread (B) on the underside

Sub-Classes : Stitch Class-600

This type of stitch is formed with six threads: four needle threads (A), (A1), (A2), and (A3); one looper thread (B); and one cover thread (C) Loops of thread (A), (A1), (A2), and (A3) are passed through loops of thread (C) already cast on the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread (B) on the underside