Stich seam types with description.PPT

 Lockstitch, has a needle thread and a bobbin thread. Stitch is formed by a needle thread introduced from one side of the material interlacing with an under thread  The needle & unde

Stitch Types

Name : MAZADUL HASAN SHESHIR

ID: 2010000400008

Batch: 13th Batch (Session 2009-2013) Department: Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com (FB)

Blog: www Textilelab.blogspot.com

Southeast University,Bangladesh

Department of Textile Engineering

PREPARED BY © right

Rotary looper Oscillating looper

* Button Stitching * 2T- chain Overlock Coverseam

Stitch Type 301

N

B

Lockstitch

Lock Stitch

 Lockstitch, has a needle thread and a bobbin thread.

 Stitch is formed by a needle thread introduced from one

side of the material interlacing with an under thread

 The needle & under thread cross over in the middle of the

fabric

 Most common of the stitch types

 Does not unravel easily,

 Poor extention.

 Stitch is reversible

 Uses least amount of thread

 Excellent seam security

 Lower productivity

 More susceptible to thread breaks

 Used in wide range of end uses.

Stitch Type 301

 Lockstitch zig zag, has a needle thread

and a bobbin thread.

 Has same benefits as 301 viz:

security of seam

reversibility

wont unravel easy

 Has better extension due to the zig zag

configuration.

 Used mostly on lingerie , foundation

wear and underwear, where a secure

seam with good extension is required.

Stitch Type 304

ZIG ZAG ONE STEP LOCKSTITCH

Two Thread Chain Stitch

 Two thread chainstitch - one needle thread

and one looper thread

 Needle thread loop is interconnected with two

loops of one underthread

 The needle & underthreads cross over on the

underside of the fabric

 Higher seam strength and seam stretch than a

lock stitch

 Higher productivity

 Seam runback (unraveling) is a big problem

 Seam security not as good as lock stitch

 Increased bulk under the seam

 Used for joining trouser panels, riser seams

and felled seams in jeans

Stitch Type 401

Two Thread Chain Stitch

Stitch Type 404

ZIG ZAG TWO THREAD CHAIN STITCH

N

L

 Cover seam stitch, has 2 needle and 1

 Gives very good extension, and is mostly

used to cover a raw edge in the fabric

after the fabric has been hemmed etc.

Stitch Type 406

Cover Seam Stitch (2 Needle & 1 Looper Thread)

Stitch Type 407

N3 N2

N1

L

Stitch Type 407

3 Thread Overlock (1 needle & 2 Looper Threads)

 3 thread overlock, has 1 needle thread

and 2 looper threads.

 Has excellent extention and does not

unravel easily.

 Used for serging to stop fabric fraying,

and for joining 2 or more plies

together.

 However this is not a tight stitch and

seam security could be a problem.

 Bulky seams

Stitch Type 504

3 Thread Overlock (1 needle & 2 Looper Threads)

 Mock safety stitch, has 2 needle and 2

looper threads

 Very good extension, will not unravel easy

 Side seams, join panels, attach sleeves,

join shoulders etc on knitted fabrics, tee

shirts, polos

 Side seams, join panels, etc on swimwear

and on aerobic wear, cycle pants etc

 Where there is a need for a secure seam

that needs very good extension

 512 is more secure than 504 (3 thread

overlock) but less secure than 516 (5

thread safety stitch)

Stitch Type 512

4 Thread Overlock (2 needle & 2 Looper Threads)

Stitch Type 514

 5 thread safetystitch, has 2 needle threads

and 3 looper threads A combination stitch

 Has two stitch types in one, 504 and 401

Good extention, very strong If one fails the

other can absorb the strain

 Used for

 joining panels where seam stretch is critical

 or joining seams where security of seam is

important Jeans (inside legs) side seams

and sleeves on shirts, overalls etc

 High seam elasticity

Stitch Type 516

Stitch Type 516

Looper and 1 Spreader Thread)

 Top and Bottom cover seam stitch, has 2

needle, 1 looper and 1 spreader thread.

 Used :

as a stitch to cover the joint between

binding and the garment (necks of knitts)

as a decorative stitch on night gowns &

sweat shirts

for stitching legs of aerobic wear and

straps on swimwear

to stitch/attach binding to knitted night

gowns Sweat shirts etc

 Has excellent extension, when a small

stitch is used excellent seam cover is

achieved

Stitch Type 602

Stitch Type 602

Looper and 1 Spreader Thread)

Looper and 1 Spreader Thread)

 Utilizes 3 needle threads, one looper and

one cover thread.

 Used in knitwear, lingerie & under

garments.

 High seam elasticity.

 Flat, comfortable seams - ideal for 'next

to skin' sewing applications.

 Can also be used as a decorative seam

 Very high thread consumption

Stitch Type 605

Stitch Type 605

Looper and 1 Spreader Thread)

Stitch Type 607

L

S N1 N2 N3 N4

Looper and 1 Spreader Thread)

Thread Consumption Guideline by Stitch Type

12

Stitch

Needle to Under Thread Ratio

Seam Types

Introduction to Seams

 A seam can be defined as : the application of a series of stitches or stitch types to one or several layers of material.

 8 classes of seams are defined in the ISO classification.

 Seams are described as :

Flat Seams

In these seams, sometimes called Butt Seams, two

fabric edges, flat or folded, are brought together

and oversewn with a zig-zag lockstitch, chainstitch

or covering stitch (Class 600)

The purpose is to produce a join where no extra

thickness of fabric can be tolerated at the seam, as

in underwear or in foundation garments

The looper thread(s) must be soft, yet strong and

the cover thread may be decorative as well as

strong

Superimposed Seams

These generally start with two or more pieces of

material superimposed over each other and joined near

an edge, with one or more rows of stitches There are

various types of seams within the SS class

A superimposed seam can be sewn with a stitch 301 or

also be sewn with stitch class 500 (Overedge stitch) or

Combination stitches (i.e stitch class 516) to create neat

load bearing seams for lingerie, shirts, etc

Superimposed Seam

Lapped Seams

• Two or more plies of material are lapped (i.e with

edges overlapped, plain, or folded) and joined with

one or more rows of stitches

an intervening folding operation - a flat, folded seam

with only one row of stitching visible on the top

Lapped Seam

Lapped Seams

• The Lap Felled type, involves only one

fabric edges protected from fraying

• Commonly used for making up jeans or

similar garments

Lapped Seam

Bound Seams

These are formed by folding a binding strip over the

edge of the plies of material and joining both edges

of the binding to the material with one or more rows

of stitching This produces a neat edge on a seam

exposed to view or to wear

Bound Seam

Ornamental Seams

A series of stitches along a straight or curved

line or following an ornamental design, on a

single ply of material

More complex types include various forms of

piping, producing a raised line along the fabric

surface

Ornamental Seam

Edge Finishing Stitching

Finishing the edge of a single ply of material by

folding it or covering it with a stitch

The simplest of these operations is Serging, Type

6.01.01, in which a cut edge of a single ply is

reinforced by overedge stitching to neaten and

prevent fraying Includes other popular methods

of producing a neat edge like hemming and Blind

Stitch hemming

Edge Finishing Stitching

Top View

12 _ Single Needle 3 Thread Overedge

*Stitch Numbers - ISO Std 4915.

11 Single Needle, Three Thread Overedge

With Double Purl Purl on Edge

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