Proffessional banking fourth edition

Recipe Contents xiii About Le Cordon Bleu xxiii Foreword xxvPreface xxvii Baking—Historical Background 4 Formulas and Measurement 6 Mixing and Gluten Development 12 The Baking Process 13

P R O F E S S I O N A L BAKING

with a foreword by

A n d r é J C o i n t r e a u

President, Le Cordon Bleu

PROFESSIONAL BAKING

Photography by

J G e r a r d S m i t h

P R O F E S S I O N A L BAKING

with a foreword by

A n d r é J C o i n t r e a u

President, Le Cordon Bleu

Le Cordon Bleu logo is a registered trademark of Le Cordon Bleu B.V.

This book is printed on acid-free paper.∞

Copyright © 2005 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc.All rights reserved

Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey

Published simultaneously in Canada

Photographs on pages 16, 19, 73, and 80 were taken at Turtle Bread Company, Minneapolis, Minnesota Design and page makeup adapted from the third edition by Lee Goldstein.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 750-4470, or on the web at www.copyright.com Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, (201) 748-6011, fax (201) 748-6008, e-mail: permcoordinator@wiley.com.

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completeness of the contents of this book and specifically disclaim any implied warranties of

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Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN 0-471-46427-9 (College)—ISBN 0-471-46426-0: (alk paper)

1 Baking 2 Food presentation I.Title.

A n n e a n d J i m S m i t h a n d t h e i r f a m i l y

Recipe Contents xiii About Le Cordon Bleu xxiii Foreword xxv

Preface xxvii

Baking—Historical Background 4 Formulas and Measurement 6 Mixing and Gluten Development 12 The Baking Process 13

Staling 14

Large Equipment 18 Pans, Containers, and Molds 22 Hand Tools 25

Miscellaneous Tools and Equipment 26

Wheat Flour 30 Other Flours, Meals, and Starches 35 Sugars 37

Fats 40 Milk and Milk Products 43 Eggs 47

Leavening Agents 50 Jelling Agents 53 Fruits and Nuts 55 Chocolate and Cocoa 57 Salt, Spices, and Flavorings 60

Contents

VII

CHAPTER 4 UNDERSTANDING YEAST DOUGHS 65

Yeast Product Types 66 Steps in Yeast Dough Production 67 Types of Dough-Making Processes 74 Controlling Fermentation 75

Bread Faults and Their Causes 78

What Is Artisan Bread? 82 Flour 83

Pre-ferments and Sourdough Starters 84 Autolyse 89

Fermentation 90 Baking 90 Artisan Bread Formulas 91

Introduction to Handcrafted Breads 94 Crisp-Crusted Bread Formulas 94 Soft-Crusted Bread and Rye Bread Formulas 100 Sourdough Formulas and Specialty Breads for the Artisan Baker 104 Makeup Techniques 120

Sweet Dough and Rich Dough Formulas 136 Rolled-in Dough Formulas 142

Fillings and Toppings 146 Makeup Techniques 152

Mixing and Production Methods 166 Formulas 169

PANCAKES, AND WAFFLES 183

Doughnuts 184 Fritters 189 Pancakes and Waffles 194

Contents IX

AND SAUCES 205

Sugar Cooking 206 Basic Creams 210 Dessert Sauces 225

Pie Doughs 234 Assembly and Baking 238 Fillings 242

Pie Faults and Their Causes 258

Pâte Brisée and Short Pastries 262 Puff Pastry 265

Éclair Paste 279 Strudel and Phyllo 286 Baked Meringues 292

Formulas 341

DECORATING CAKES 365

Icings 366 Assembling and Icing Simple Cakes 378 Basic Decorating Techniques 381

CHAPTER 16 SPECIALTY CAKES,

GÂTEAUX, AND TORTEN 393

Planning and Assembling Specialty Cakes 394 Procedures for Popular Cakes 401

Churn-Frozen Desserts 496 Still-Frozen Desserts 507

Selecting and Preparing Fresh Fruits 520 Fruit Desserts 525

Background and Guidelines 546 Examples of Dessert Presentations 551

CHAPTER 22 CHOCOLATE 577

Handling Chocolate 578 Molding Chocolate 582 Chocolate Decorations 584 Chocolate Truffles and Confections 589

PASTILLAGE 597

Marzipan 598 Pastillage 602 Nougatine 606

TECHNIQUES 611

Boiling Syrups for Sugar Work 612 Spun Sugar and Caramel Decorations 613 Poured Sugar 616

Pulled Sugar and Blown Sugar 618

MEASUREMENTS 627

661

Glossary 665 Bibliography 673 Recipe Index 675 Subject Index 689

Contents XI

CHAPTER 6 LEAN YEAST DOUGHS

Baguette 98

Fougasse 98

Ciabatta 99

Milk Bread (Pain au Lait) 102

Rye Starter III 106

Yogurt Sour 106 Potato Sour 107 Apple Sour 107

French Rye 110 Pain de Campagne (Country-Style Bread) 110 Apple Sourdough 111

Whole Wheat, Rye, and Nut Sourdough 112 Potato Sourdough 113

Recipes in blue type were

developed and tested by

Le Cordon Bleu.

Recipe Contents

XIII

Baba/Savarin Dough 139

Panettone 140

Danish Pastry Dough (Croissant-Style) 143

Danish Pastry Dough (Brioche-Style) 144

Lemon Cheese Filling 147

Almond Cream (Crème d’Amande) 149

Apple Compote Filling 149

Cinnamon Raisin Filling 149

Pecan Maple Filling 150

PANCAKES, AND WAFFLES

Pancakes and Waffles 195

Chocolate Soufflé Crêpes 202

AND SAUCES

Vanilla Syrup 208

Recipe Contents XV

Coffee Rum Syrup 209

Coffee Syrup 209 Rum Syrup 209 Cocoa Vanilla Syrup 209

Chiboust Cream 218

Chocolate Chiboust Cream 219 Coffee Chiboust Cream 219 Praline Chiboust Cream 219 Lime or Lemon Chiboust 219

Chiboust Cream with Raspberries 220

Chiboust Cream Flavored with Alcohol 220

Vanilla Crème Diplomat 221

Chocolate Crème Diplomat 221

Banana Cream Pie Filling 253

Strawberry Cream Chiffon Pie

CHAPTER 12 PASTRY BASICS

Reversed Puff Pastry (Pâte Feuilletée Inversé)

Orange Brûlée Tart 307

Peasant Tart 309 Gâteau St-Honoré 310 Praline Millefeuille 312 Praline Pailletine 312 Mirabelle Pithiviers 313 Passionata 314

Capucine Chocolate 316 Nougatine Parisienne 316

Financiers au Café 318 Praline Cake (Pralinette) 319

Carrot Nut Cake 343

Sheet Cake for Petits Fours and Fancy tries 344

Chocolate Sponge Roll I (Chocolate

Joconde Sponge Cake (Biscuit Joconde) 354

Hazelnut Joconde Sponge Cake 354 Ribbon Sponge 355

Almond Pound Cake (Pain de Gênes) 356

Marjolaine Sponge Cake 357

Hazelnut Sponge Cake 357

Baumkuchen 358

Almond Chocolate Sponge 359

Chocolate Sponge Layers 359

Chocolate Velvet Cake (Moelleux) 360 Lemon Madeleines 361

Chocolate and Orange Madeleines 361 Marronier (Chestnut Cake Petits Fours) 362

Praline Buttercream 371 Vanilla Cream 371 Caramel Buttercream 371 Light Praline Cream 371

Chocolate Glaçage or Sacher Glaze 375 Ganache Icing (Ganache à Glacer) 376 Opera Glaze 376

Cocoa Jelly 376 Fruit Glaçage 377 Coffee Marble Glaze 377

GÂTEAUX, AND TORTEN

Cocoa Almond Macaroons 449

Almond Tuiles I 451 Tulipes 451

Sesame Tuiles 452 Coconut Tuiles 453

Batons Marechaux and Eponges 459

MOUSSES, AND SOUFFLÉS

Raspberry or Blueberry

Raspberry Passion Fruit

Double Chocolate Macadamia Chunk

Dried Cherry Bread Pudding 467

Orange Cheese Mousse 478

Unbaked Orange Cheesecake 478

Three-Chocolate Bavarois 479

Almond Cream 480

Passion Fruit Bavarian 480

Mousse au Cassis (Blackcurrant Mousse) 481

Passion Fruit Mousse 481 Charlotte au Cassis 482

Passion Fruit Charlotte 483 Nougatine Cream 484

Chocolate Mousse V (with Gelatin) 488

Almond, Hazelnut, or Macadamia Praline Ice

Raspberry, Strawberry, Melon, or Kiwi bet 502

Honey Ice Cream 504

Coconut Sorbet 505 Cider Apple Sorbet 505 Cassata Italienne 506

Praline 509 Fruit (Raspberry, Strawberry,

Bombe or Parfait with Nuts, Sponge Cake, or

White Chocolate Parfait with Flambéed

Cherries 514

Cointreau Iced Soufflé 515

Poppy Seed Parfait 516

Iced Low-Fat Raspberry Parfait 516

Poached Apples, Pears, or

Fruit Salad 527

Marinated Tropical Fruits 527

Gratin de Fruits Rouges

(Red Fruit Gratin) 533

Baked Apples Tatin-Style 533

Pear and Apple Gratin 534

Crème Brûlée Sophia 535 Figs in Port Wine 535 Caramelized Pear Charlotte 536 Spiced Pineapple 538

Raspberry Jam 538 Strawberry Marmalade 539 Apple Marmalade 539 Caramelized Apricots 539 Apricot Compote 540 Apricot and Almond Compote 540 Plum Compote 540

Pineapple Kumquat Compote 541 Kumquat Compote 541 Candied Orange or Lemon Zest 541 Apple Crisps 542

Angel Food Cake with Plum Compote and

Apple Crisp with Caramel Sauce or Butterscotch

Charlotte au Cassis 558 Brownie Cherry Cheesecake Ice Cream Sandwich 559

Iced Low-Fat Raspberry Parfait with Almond Macaroons 560

Poached Pear with Baklava and Mascarpone Cream 561

Cream Cheese Bavarian with Fruit

Steamed Chocolate Almond Pudding with Caramel

Chocolate Bread Pudding with Caramelized

Chilled Summer Fruit Soup with Strawberry

Apple-Filled Brioche with Berries 566

French-Toasted Challah with Cheesecake Ice Cream

567

Warm Tropical Fruit Compote with

Poppy Seed Parfait 569

Cornucopia of Fresh Fruit with Lemon

French Doughnuts, Presentation 1 571

French Doughnuts, Presentation 2 571

Pear Pecan Tart, Chocolate Ganache Torte, and

Winter Dessert Medley with Frozen

Spiced Pineapple with Coconut Sorbet and Coconut

Tuile 573 Figs in Port Wine with Honey Ice Cream and

Sesame Tuile 574 Passion Fruit Charlotte 574

MARZIPAN, NOUGATINE, AND PASTILLAGE

Pulled Sugar and Blown Sugar 619

Recipe Contents XXI

With schools on five continents, in France, Great

Britain, Japan and Korea, Australia, and the Americas, plus

a student body representing 70 nationalities, Le Cordon

Bleu is well known and highly regarded throughout the

international world of gastronomy

Le Cordon Bleu and its master chefs have a tradition

of excellence in the culinary arts and are committed to

furthering not only the appreciation of fine food and

wine but also the art of living

Restaurants, bakeries, and coffee shops have beendeveloped under the Le Cordon Bleu trademark.Alreadyinvolved in consulting and promoting of a variety ofculinary products, Le Cordon Bleu has also successfullydeveloped partnerships with major hospitality andeducational institutions around the globe, including thecruise line industry, through its venture with Radisson’sSeven Seas Cruise Lines

Le Cordon Bleu can be reached at any of the lowing addresses:

fol-About Le Cordon Bleu

Le Cordon Bleu Paris

8 rue Léon Delhomme

E-mail: cordonbleu@anahuac.mx

Le Cordon Bleu Paris

Ottawa Culinary Arts Institute School and Restaurant

453 Laurier Avenue East Ottawa

Ontario, K1N 6R4 Canada

Phone: 1-613-236-CHEF (2433) Toll-free: 1-888-289-6302 Fax: 1-613-236-2460 Restaurant: 1-613-236-2499 E-mail: ottawa@cordonbleu.edu

Le Cordon Bleu Corporate Office

40 Enterprise Avenue Secaucus, NJ 07094-2517 Phone: 1-201-617-5221 Fax: 1-201-617-1914 Toll-free: 1-800-457-CHEF (2433) E-mail: info@cordonbleu.edu

Le Cordon Bleu Australia

Management Courses and Corporate Office Days Road

Regency Park SA 5010 Australia

Phone: 618-8346-3700 Fax: 618-8346-3755 E-mail: australia@cordonbleu.edu

Le Cordon Bleu Sydney

250 Blaxland Road Ryde

Sydney NSW 2112 Australia

Phone: 618-8346-3700 Fax: 618-8346-3755 E-mail: australia@cordonbleu.edu

Le Cordon Bleu Korea

53-12 Chungpa-Dong 2Ka Yongsan-Ku

Seoul 140 742 Korea Phone: 82-2-719-69-61 Fax: 82-2-719-75-69 E-mail: korea@cordonbleu.edu

Le Cordon Bleu Peru

Av Nuñez de Balboa 530 Miraflores

Lima 18 Peru Phone: 51-1-242-8222 Fax: 51-1-242-9209

Le Cordon Bleu Tokyo

Roob-1, 28-13 Sarugaku-Cho Daikanyama

Shibuya-Ku Tokyo 150-0033 Japan

Phone: 81-3-5489-0141 Fax: 81-3-5489-0145 E-mail: tokyo@cordonbleu.edu

Le Cordon Bleu Yokohama

2-18-1,Takashima Nishi-Ku Yokohama-Shi Kanagawa Japan Phone: 81-45-440-4720 Fax: 81-45-440-4722 E-mail: info@cordonbleu.edu Web site: www.cordonbleu.edu

Le Cordon Bleu—L’Art Culinaire is pleased to

continue its partnership with author Wayne Gisslen on

the fourth edition of Professional Baking This

collaboration underlines the importance of classic

pâtisserie and baking techniques at the service of the

global gastronomic world It has always been the view of

Le Cordon Bleu that through mastering and

understanding the importance of these techniques,

processes, and methods, students gain the skills and

confidence necessary to become not only excellent

professionals but also creators of their own works of art

Le Cordon Bleu sees the fourth edition of Professional

Bakingas an important tool in this endeavor

Founded in Paris in 1895, Le Cordon Bleu today compasses 22 schools in 12 countries and spans five con-

en-tinents Our chef-instructors hail from Michelin-starred

restaurants or top hotel kitchens.They have won

presti-gious culinary competitions and honors Each year, they

pass on their skill and knowledge to a student body

rep-resenting 70 countries by teaching the techniques and

methods of pastry, baking, and cuisine

Professional Baking has been a mainstay in NorthAmerican universities, community colleges, and schools

Foreword

specializing in the culinary arts and hospitality ment It has been used to train hundreds of thousands ofpastry chefs and bakers Created by the talented WayneGisslen, the text, through its clear writing style, precisephotography, and recipes, teaches firstly to understandand then to perform It presents a no-nonsense view ofthe workings of professional pastry and bakery kitchens.Wayne Gisslen balances his practical knowledge with

manage-a clemanage-an, methodicmanage-al, manage-and pedmanage-agogicmanage-al manage-appromanage-ach, mmanage-aking

this book a lifetime reference.The flexible format of

Pro-fessional Baking is the reason we consider it the besttextbook for promoting good theory and practice Plus, ithas the adaptability to be used worldwide We feel thisbook is a necessary tool for both the professional and thehome kitchen In this new edition, Le Cordon Bleu chefsand Wayne Gisslen combine their knowledge and experi-ence to enhance a definitive text and reference book

We are glad to continue our partnership and ship, both of which have strengthened with each editionand will continue to strengthen with other projects

friend-ANDRÉJ COINTREAU

President and CEO

Le Cordon Bleu—L’Art Culinaire

XXV

The baking and pastry professions are growing rapidly.

Demand for high-quality breads has fostered the rebirth

of the craft of baking Artisan bakers and even organic

wheat growers are finding more customers for their

products More and more restaurants are hiring pastry

chefs and posting their names prominently on menus.To

keep up with the demand, schools of culinary arts

around the world are expanding their baking and pastry

programs

Professional Bakinghas been part of this excitingrenaissance for nearly two decades This new fourth

edition continues my effort to make the book ever more

useful to a growing readership The previous edition, as

long-time readers know, was a substantial revision, with

new color photos, new chapters, new formulas, new

advanced material on pastry making and decorative

work, and a total redesign.The fourth edition is a further

refinement and expansion, with more new material and a

fresh look At the same time, it is at heart the same trusted

text on which instructors and students and amateur

bakers have long depended

WHAT’S NEW

The fourth edition of Professional Baking is the fruit of

a continuing dialog with instructors in schools with

many curricula and approaches to baking instruction

The selection of new material and the refinement of old

material are in response to their requests, and I am

grateful for their input Among the most prominent

additions and changes are the following:

• A new chapter on artisan bread baking, including

detailed instructions for preparing sourdough starters,understanding and managing natural fermentation,and producing a variety of fine handcrafted breadswith both yeast starters and natural starters

• A new chapter outlining the most important ment used in the bakeshop

equip-• More than 175 new color photographs, bringing thetotal to over 500 The photos illustrate ingredients andstep-by-step techniques as well as finished breads,cakes, pastries, and desserts

• An expanded introduction to the history of baking

• A rewritten and expanded explanation of wheatflours and their characteristics

• New material on plating techniques for style desserts

restaurant-The participation of Le Cordon Bleu, which debuted

in the third edition, continues here Of the approximately

700 formulas in the book, more than 175 are from thechefs at Le Cordon Bleu in London and Paris

This red logo indicates formulas that I havedeveloped and tested

This blue logo indicates formulas that weredeveloped and tested by Le Cordon Bleu

THE GOAL OF THIS TEXT

The goal of this book is to provide students with a solidtheoretical and practical foundation in baking practices,including selection of ingredients, proper mixing andbaking techniques, careful makeup and assembly, andskilled and imaginative decoration and presentation It isdesigned as a primary text for use in colleges andculinary schools, baking courses within broader foodservice curricula, and on-the-job training programs It isalso valuable as a manual for cooks and bakers, bothprofessional and amateur

The methods and procedures in this book are

XXVII

Preface

primarily those of small bakeshops and food service

organizations The emphasis is on producing high-quality

handcrafted items Development of manual skills is

stressed Such skills are a valuable asset even to students

who eventually move on to more industrialized,

automated production like that found in large

com-mercial bakeries

The text focuses on both understanding and

performing The practical material is supported by a

systematic presentation of basic theory and ingredient

information so students learn not only what techniques

work but also why they work Procedures for basic

bread and pastry doughs, cake mixes, creams, and icings

form the core of the material Much of the text is

devoted to step-by-step procedures and production

techniques The discussion of techniques is reinforced

with straightforward formulas that allow students to

develop their skills while working with large or small

quantities

Those students who have developed a good

understanding and mastery of basic techniques are

usually eager to progress to fine pastries and other

advanced work The basic techniques and formulas that

form the core of the book are supplemented with

explanations of advanced techniques and formulas,

enabling students to learn and practice a broad range of

skills for producing fine pastries, cakes, and decorative

pieces Emphasis here is on developing manual skills for

careful detailed work rather than on producing large

quantities.Those whose careers or interests lead them to

restaurants rather than bakeries and pastry shops will

find a detailed discussion of the principles of designing

and plating appealing dessert presentations

THE ORGANIZATION OF THE TEXT

Two factors strongly influence the arrangement and

organization of this book The first is the dual emphasis

already mentioned—the emphasis on both

under-standing and performing It is not enough to present

students with a collection of formulas, nor is it enough to

give them a freestanding summary of baking theory and

principles They must be presented together, and the

connections between them must be clear Thus, when

students practice preparing specific items, their study of

theory helps them understand what they are doing, why

they are doing it, and how to get the best results At the

same time, each formula they prepare helps reinforce

their understanding of the basic principles Knowledge

builds upon knowledge

The second factor is that most of a baker’s activities

fall naturally into two categories: (1) mixing, baking,

and/or cooking doughs, batters, fillings, creams, and

icings, and (2) assembling these elements (for example,

baked cake layers, fillings, and icings) into finished

pieces The first category of tasks requires careful

selection of ingredients, accurate measurement, andclose attention to mixing and baking procedures.Naturally, most of the detailed guidelines and procedures

in this book are devoted to these kinds of tasks Thesecond category, the assembly of prepared components,

is less a matter of scientific accuracy than of manual skillsand artistic abilities

This division of tasks is so well known to thepracticing baker that it is usually taken for granted.Consequently, it is often neglected in written materials

As far as possible, the arrangement of subjects in this textreflects the working practices of bakeshops andkitchens In a typical facility, operations such as mixingpie doughs, cooking fillings, preparing icings, and mixingand baking cake layers are done separately and inadvance.Then, depending on demand, finished productscan be assembled quickly, shortly before they are needed

In this book, the procedures for mixing and baking cakes,for example, are discussed separately from theprocedures for assembling, icing, and decorating them.These are very different techniques, and students find ithelpful to approach them in a realistic context Similarly,basic creams and icings are fundamental elementsrequired for making a wide range of pastries, cakes, andother desserts; hence, they are treated early in the text.Although the arrangement of chapters represents alogical grouping of products and procedures, it is notintended to dictate the order in which instructors shouldteach the units Every curriculum has differentrequirements and constraints, so the sequence ofinstruction varies from school to school and instructor toinstructor The arrangement of material in this text isdesigned to encourage flexibility Instructors areencouraged to teach the material in any order that suitstheir needs Of course, baking techniques are highlyinterdependent; frequent cross-references help studentsunderstand these connections

An important element in the text is the participation

of the instructor, whose ideas and professionalexperience are invaluable There is no substitute forfirsthand seeing and doing under the guidance andsupervision of experienced teachers Baking is an art asmuch as a skill, and on many points bakers and pastrychefs differ in their preferences The text frequentlyexplains possible variations in theory and procedure, andstudents are encouraged to consult their instructor forthe techniques he or she prefers.Throughout the book,the instructor’s input is encouraged Exposure to avariety of formulas and techniques can only enrichstudents’ education and enhance their skills

The text is designed for readability and practicality.Discussions of baking theory are presented in easy-to-read, point-by-point explanations Techniques andmakeup methods are detailed in concise yet completestep-by-step procedures The format emphasizes andhighlights key points in bold type, italics, and numbered

software program used in the food service industry TheCD-ROM contains nearly 700 formulas from this book,plus a range of useful features that make them easy toadapt and manipulate to suit individual needs Userscan:

• Add, edit, modify, and print formulas, portion sizes, oryield and create shopping lists

• Cost recipes using preloaded ingredient prices

• Search recipes by main ingredient, meal, and cuisinetype

• Resize formulas using baking formulas in U.S ormetric measurements, or baker’s percentages

• Perform metric conversions instantly

• Calculate nutritional analyses of formulas in U.S Foodand Drug Administration (FDA) format and updatenutritional analysis if an ingredient is changed

Supplements

To enhance the mastery of the material in Professional

Baking, the following student and instructor ments are available:

supple-The Study Guide (ISBN 0-471-47777-X) contains

re-view materials, practice problems, and exercises

(An-swers to questions are included in the Instructor’s

Manual.)

The Instructor’s Manual with Study Guide Solutions

(ISBN 0-471-47779-6) includes teaching suggestions andtest questions Test questions are also available inelectronic form on a CD-ROM and on our Web site,available to course instructors upon request

The Student Workbook (ISBN 0-471-47781-8) has

been developed by the National Restaurant AssociationEducational Foundation in consultation with the authorfor its ProMgmt Certificate program The workbookcontains exercises and a study outline for each chapter,plus an eighty-question practice test The practice testassists students in preparing for the certificate exam-

ination In addition, an Instructor’s Guide (ISBN

0-471-47775-3) is available to course instructors to ment and highlight information in the textbook and

comple-Student Workbook.The newly updated and revised Web site containsinformation for the student and instructor It is available

at www.wiley.com/go/gisslen

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

A book of this nature and scope must always be morethan a one-person job First of all, I would like to thank alarge group of people who are in many ways the unsung

heroes of Professional Baking I refer to the many

instructors and other readers of the book who havecorresponded with me and my editors over the years or

sequences, so the basic information can be located and

reviewed at a glance

THE FORMULAS

Nearly 700 formulas and recipes are included for the

most popular breads, cakes, pastries, and desserts.These

formulas are not selected at random, merely for the sake

of having formulas in the book Rather, they are carefully

chosen and developed to teach and reinforce the

techniques students are learning and to strengthen their

understanding of basic principles.The goal is for students

to understand and use not only the formulas in this book

but any formula they encounter

The formulas in this book are instructional—that is,their purpose is not merely to give directions for

producing baked goods but also to provide an

opportunity to practice, with specific ingredients, the

general principles being studied Directions within

formulas are often abbreviated For example, instead of

spelling out the straight dough method for breads in

detail for each dough mixed in this way, this book refers

the student to the preceding discussion of the

procedure By thinking and reviewing, students derive a

stronger learning experience from their lab work

Many formulas are followed by variations These areactually whole formulas given in abbreviated terms.This

feature encourages students to see the similarities and

differences among preparations For example, there

seems little point in giving a formula for cream pie filling

in the pie chapter, a formula for custard filling for éclairs

and napoleons in a pastry chapter, and separate formulas

for each flavor of cream pudding in a pudding chapter

without pointing out that these are all basically the same

preparation Skill as a baker depends on understanding

and being able to exercise judgment, not just on

following recipes The ability to exercise judgment is

essential in all branches of cookery but especially so in

baking, where the smallest variation in procedure can

produce significant changes in the baked product The

formulas in this text will help students develop judgment

by requiring them to think about the relationships

between general procedures and specific products

Students are encouraged to study chapter 1 beforeactually proceeding with any of the formulas.The second

section of the chapter explains the principles of mea

surement, the various formats used for the formulas and

recipes in this book, techniques for converting yield, and

U.S and metric measurements and bakers’ percentages

FEATURES

CD-ROM

The CD-ROM, designed to complement the book,

accompanies the academic edition of this book and

utilizes Chef Tec Tutor™ software, a professional-level

Preface XXIX

Finally,I wish to thank everyone at John Wiley and Sonswho worked so hard on this project: Andrea Johnson,Diana Cisek, Julie Kerr, Tzviya Siegman, Lynne Marsala,Brent Savage, Clint Lahnen, Jill Piscitelli, Rashell Smith,Karl Brandt, Melissa Oliver, and especially my long-timeeditor and friend, JoAnna Turtletaub, who worked with

me so tirelessly

REVIEWERS Robert L Anderson, Des Moines Area Community

College, Ankeny, Iowa

Mark S Cole, Del Mar College, Corpus Christi,Texas Martha Crawford, Johnson & Wales University,

Providence, Rhode Island

John R Farris, Lansing Community College, Lansing,

Michigan

Joseph D Ford, New York Food and Hotel

Management, New York, New York

Robert J Galloway, Dunwoody Industrial Institute,

Minneapolis, Minnesota

David Gibson, Niagara College of Applied Arts and

Technology, Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada

Kathryn Gordon,Art Institute of New York City, New

York, New York

Jean Hassell,Youngstown State University,

George Jack,The Cooking and Hospitality Institute of

Chicago, Chicago, Illinois

Mike Jung, Hennepin Technical College, Brooklyn Park,

Minnesota

Frederick Glen Knight,The Southeast Institute of

Culinary Arts, St.Augustine, Florida

Paul Krebs, Schenectady County Community College,

Schenectady, New York

Jeffrey C LaBarge, Central Piedmont Community

College, Charlotte, North Carolina

Fred LeMeisz, St Petersburg Vocational Technical

Institute, St Petersburg, Florida

Laurel Leslie, Kapiolani Community College, Honolulu,

John Oechsner,Art Institute of Atlanta,Atlanta, Georgia

who have responded thoughtfully to our questions and

surveys These instructors face many challenges every

day as they work to transmit the knowledge and skills of

our craft to their students in an array of learning

environments They have helped me understand from

their points of view the difficulties instructors face, and

this has helped me develop the text, from edition to

edition, into a more inclusive and flexible teaching and

learning tool.These reviewers have truly been an integral

part of the development of Professional Baking from

the first edition, and I am grateful to them Most of the

changes and additions to the fourth edition have been in

response to their input To give them due recognition, I

have added a list of reviewers following these

acknowledgments No doubt I have inadvertently missed

some people, so I would like to thank every instructor

who has talked or corresponded with me about this

book and given me ideas for its improvement

Second, I would like to express my gratitude to the

staff of Le Cordon Bleu, whose participation made such a

great improvement in the previous edition and whose

contributions still form an important part of this new

edition Thanks especially to André Cointreau, president

of Le Cordon Bleu, for making this collaboration possible

Julie Walsh and Laurent Duchêne are the two remarkable

pastry chefs who developed and tested the many

formulas that found a place in the text I thank them very

much In addition, a number of students worked with

chefs Walsh and Duchêne during our photography

session in London: Saori Matsunuma,Yuka Eguchi, Kaori

Tsuboi, Erika Kahn, Michele Perle, Townley Morrison,

James Rizzo, Daniel Schumer, and Benjamin Coffin

Photographer Jim Smith has worked with me on all

my projects for more than twenty years, and his work is

such an important part of these texts that he is truly a

partner in their development Once again his work has

added immeasurably to this new edition I would like to

thank not only Jim but also his great team, including Anne

Smith and Ryan Basten, for the great working relationship

and friendship that has developed

Turtle Bread Company in Minneapolis, Minnesota,

makers of outstanding artisan breads and other fine

baked goods, graciously allowed me and my photography

crew access to their shop I am grateful to the staff and

especially to Solveig Tofte for their assistance and

hospitality

Testing new formulas and recipes and retesting old

ones is an important part of the work of a new edition,

and I would like to extend my thanks to Jennifer Peck for

her skilled and knowledgeable assistance both in recipe

testing and in preparation for photography

I would like to extend recognition and gratitude to a

great pastry chef and teacher, Leo “Sonny” Silverman, my

first inspiration and mentor in fine pastry and decorative

work

Philip Panzarino, New York City Technical College,

Brooklyn, New York

Kenneth Perry, Brown College, Mendota Heights,

Minnesota

Richard Petrello,Withlacoochee Vocational-Technical

Center, Inverness, Florida

Willaim H Pifer, Bellingham Technical College,

Patrick Sweeney, Johnson County Community College,

Overland Park, Kansas

Chris Thielman, College of DuPage, Glen Ellyn, Illinois

F H Waskey, University of Houston, Houston,Texas

J William White, Pinellas County School System,

St Petersburg, Florida

Ronald Zabkiewicz, South Technical Education Center,

Boynton Beach, Florida

PROFESSIONAL BAKING

CHAPTER 1

1

hen you consider that most bakery products are made of the same few ingredients—flour, shortening, sugar, eggs, water or milk, and leavenings—you should have no difficulty understanding the importance

of accuracy in the bakeshop, as slight variations in proportions or procedures can mean great differences in the final product.

In this chapter, you are introduced to bakeshop production through a discussion of the kinds of measurements and mathematical calculations necessary for baking and of the basic processes common to nearly all baked goods.

3

Basic Principles

W

Grains have been the most important staple food in the human diet sinceprehistoric times, so it is only a slight exaggeration to say that baking is almost

as old as the human race

Because of the lack of cooking utensils, it is probable that one of the earliestgrain preparations was made by toasting dry grains, pounding them to a mealwith rocks, and mixing the meal to a paste with water Later it was discoveredthat some of this paste, if laid on a hot stone next to a fire, turned into aflatbread that was a little more appetizing than the plain paste Unleavenedflatbreads, such as tortillas, are still important foods in many cultures

A grain paste left to stand for a time sooner or later collects wild yeasts andbegins to ferment This was, no doubt, the beginning of leavened bread,although for most of human history the presence of yeast was mostlyaccidental Eventually, people learned they could save a small part of the dough

to leaven the next day’s batch Not until relatively recent times, however, didbakers learn to control yeast with any accuracy

By the time of the ancient Greeks, about five or six hundred years BCE,enclosed ovens, heated by wood fires, were in use People took turns bakingtheir breads in a large communal oven, unless they were wealthy enough tohave their own oven

Several centuries later, ancient Rome saw the first mass production ofbreads, so the baking profession can be said to have started at that time Many ofthe products made by the professional bakers contained quantities of honey and

oil, so these foods might be called pastries rather than breads.That the primary

fat available was oil placed a limit on the kinds of pastries that could be made.Only a solid fat such as butter enables the pastry maker to produce the kinds ofstiff doughs we are familiar with, such as pie doughs and short pastries

After the collapse of the Roman Empire, baking as a profession almostdisappeared Not until the latter part of the Middle Ages did baking and pastrymaking begin to reappear as important professions in the service of thenobility Bread baking continued to be performed by professional bakers, nothomemakers, because it required ovens that needed almost constant tending

In much of Europe, tending ovens and making bread dough were separateoperations The oven tender maintained the oven, heated it properly, andsupervised the baking of the loaves that were brought to him In early years,the oven may not have been near the workshops of the bakers, and one ovenserved the needs of several bakers It is interesting to note that in manybakeries today, especially in the larger ones, this division of labor still exists.The chef who tends the ovens bakes the proofed breads and other productsthat are brought to him or her and may not have any part in the mixing andmakeup of these products

It was also in the Middle Ages that bakers and pastry chefs in Franceformed guilds in order to protect and further their art Regulations prohibitedall but certified bakers from baking bread for sale, and the guilds had enoughpower to limit certification to their own members The guilds, as well as theapprenticeship system, which was well developed by the sixteenth century,also provided a way to pass the knowledge of the baker’s trade fromgeneration to generation

Bakers also made cakes from doughs or batters containing honey or othersweet ingredients, such as dried fruits Many of these items had religioussignificance and were baked only for special occasions, such as the TwelfthNight cakes baked after Christmas Such products nearly always had a densetexture, unlike the light confections we call cakes today Nonsweetened pastrydoughs were also made for such products as meat pies In the 1400s, pastry

After reading this

chapter, you should be

Explain the factors that

control the development of

gluten in baked products.

Explain the changes that

take place in a dough or

batter as it bakes.

Prevent or retard the

staling of baked items.

Baking—Historical Background 5

chefs in France formed their own corporations and took pastry making away

from bakers From this point on, the profession of pastry making developed

rapidly, and cooks developed many new kinds of pastry products

The European discovery of the Americas in 1492 sparked a revolution inpastry making Sugar and cocoa, brought from the new world, were available in

the old world for the first time Before, the only significant sweetener was

honey Once the new ingredients became widely available, baking and pastry

became more and more sophisticated, with many new recipes being

developed By the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, many of the basic

pastries that we know today, including laminated or layered doughs like puff

pastry and Danish dough, were being made

The nineteenth century saw the development of modern baking as weknow it After the French Revolution in 1789, many bakers and pastry cooks

who had been servants in the houses of the nobility started independent

businesses Artisans competed for customers with the quality of their

products The general public—not just aristocrats and the well-to-do—were

able to buy fine pastries Some of the pastry shops started during that time still

serve Parisians today

The most famous chef of the early nineteenth century was Marie-AntoineCarême, also known as Antonin Carême, who lived from 1784 to 1833 His

spectacular constructions of sugar and pastry earned him great fame, and he

elevated the jobs of cook and pastry chef to respected professions Carême’s book,

Le Pâtissier Royal, was one of the first systematic explanations of the pastry chef’s

art

Ironically, most of Carême’s career was spent in the service of the nobilityand royalty, in an era when the products of the bakers’ and pastry chefs’ craft

were becoming more widely available to average citizens Carême had little to

do with the commercial and retail aspects of baking

The nineteenth century was also a time of great technical progress

Automated processes enabled bakers to do many tasks with machines that

once required a great deal of manual labor The most important of these

technological advances was the development of roller milling Prior to this

time, flour was milled by grinding grain between two stones The resulting

flour then had to be sifted, or bolted, often numerous times, to separate the

bran The process was slow Roller milling, described in chapter 3 (see page

31), is much faster and more efficient This was a tremendous boost to the

baking industry

Another important development of the period was the new availability offlours from the wheat-growing regions of North America These wheat

varieties were higher in protein than those that could be grown in northern

Europe, and the export of this wheat to Europe promoted the large-scale

production of white bread

In the twentieth century, advances in technology, from refrigeration tosophisticated ovens to air transportation that carries fresh ingredients around

the world, contributed immeasurably to baking and pastry making At the

beginning of the twenty-first century, the popularity of fine breads and pastries

is growing even faster than new chefs can be trained Interestingly enough,

many of the technological advances in bread baking have sparked a reaction

among bakers and consumers alike, who are looking to reclaim some of the

flavors of old-fashioned breads that were lost as baking became more

industrialized and baked goods became more refined, standardized, and—

some would say—flavorless Bakers are researching methods for producing the

handmade sourdough breads of times past, and they are experimenting with

specialty flours in their search for flavor

Those entering a career in baking or pastry making today find tunities in three areas: restaurants and hotels, retail bakeries and pastry shops,

oppor-and large-scale bakeries oppor-and industrial production of baked goods

Marie-Antoine Carême

Call No TX719.C27 copy 2, Vol.1 M.A Carême L'art de

la cuisine française au dix-neuviême siêcle Traité élémentaire et pratique, 1833 Division of Rare and Manuscript Collections, Cornell University Library

FORMULAS AND MEASUREMENT

Bakers generally talk about formulas rather than recipes If this sounds to you

more like a chemistry lab than a food production facility, it is with goodreason The bakeshop is very much like a chemistry laboratory, both in thescientific accuracy of the procedures and in the complex reactions that takeplace during mixing and baking

M E A S U R E M E N T

Ingredients are almost always weighed in the bakeshop, rather than measured

by volume, because measurement by weight is more accurate Accuracy ofmeasurement, as we have said, is essential in the bakeshop Unlike homebaking recipes, a professional baker’s formula will not call for 6 cups flour, forexample

To demonstrate to yourself the importance of weighing rather thanmeasuring by volume, measure a cup of flour in two ways: (a) Sift some flourand lightly spoon it into a dry measure Level the top and weigh the flour (b)Scoop some unsifted flour into the same measure and pack it lightly Level thetop and weigh the flour Note the difference No wonder home recipes can be

so inconsistent!

The baker’s term for weighing ingredients is scaling.

The following ingredients, and only these ingredients, may sometimes

be measured by volume, at the ratio of 1 pint per pound or 1 liter per

kilogram:

• Water • Milk • EggsVolume measure is often used when scaling water for small or medium-sized batches of bread Results are generally good However, wheneveraccuracy is critical, it is better to weigh.This is because a pint of water actuallyweighs slightly more than a pound, or approximately 16.7 oz (This figurevaries with the temperature of the water.)

For convenience, volume measures of liquids are frequently used whenproducts other than baked flour goods—such as sauces, syrups, puddings, andcustards—are being made

Units of Measure

The system of measurement used in the United States is very complicated.Even those who have used the system all their lives sometimes have troubleremembering things like how many fluid ounces are in a quart and how manyfeet are in a mile

The first table at left lists equivalents among the units of measure used inthe bakeshop and kitchen You should memorize these thoroughly so youdon’t lose time making simple calculations The second table at left lists theabbreviations used in this book

The Metric System

The United States is the only major country that uses the complex system ofmeasurement we have just described Other countries use a much simpler

system called the metric system.

Note:One fluid ounce (often simply

called ounce) of water weighs 1 ounce.

One pint of water weighs approximately

1 pound.