Geography and Oceanography - Chapter 17 pps

Properties of Ocean Waves❥ An ocean wave is an undulation of the sea surface.. Wind Generation of Waves❥ Wind velocity ❥ Wind duration ❥ Fetch distance over which wind blows ❥ Simply put

Waves in the Ocean

Words from these PPT slides are already on the course web site.

Wave Parameters

Properties of Ocean Waves

❥ An ocean wave is an undulation of the sea surface.

❥ Progressive waves move across the sea surface.

❥ Standing waves oscillate about a fixed point.

What Causes Waves?

❥ Wind

moon

Wind Generation of Waves

❥ Wind velocity

❥ Wind duration

❥ Fetch (distance over which wind blows)

❥ Simply put, wave size increases as all these factors increase.

Progressive Waves

❥ Wind-generated waves are progressive

waves because they travel across the sea surface

Progressive Wave Types

❥ Sea - irregular waves in the area of

Wave Motions

❥ Forward movement of the wave form.

❥ Orbital motion of water particles beneath

the wave.

that moves across the sea surface.

Flow of Energy, not Mass

Wave Motion with Depth

Motion Animation

Deep Water Waves

Waves do NOT interact with the seafloor Orbits of the water molecules are circular.

Shallow Water Waves

Waves DO interact with the seafloor.

Orbits of the water molecules become elliptical.

Life History of Ocean Waves

Life History of Ocean Waves

This area is characterized by a

“confused” sea state with extensive wave interference This interference may be

Rogue Waves?

interference - wave

buildup

Rogue Waves

http://bit.ly/cs1I9b

Destructive Waves

interference - wave

cancellation

Progressive Wave Types

❥ Sea - irregular waves in the area of

Transformation of Deep-water Waves:

Dispersion

Shallow Waves Affected by

Bottom

transforms the wave’s properties This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf

(breakers).

Refraction Animation

Shallow-water Wave

Transformations

Transformation of Shallow-water Waves

Progressive Wave Types

Surf

Back to Mavericks, CACondition Black Video

Motion of Water Particles Beneath

Waves