The study of automatic pattern generation for MTM product on gerber’s accumark software

The study aims to analyze the automatic pattern design process using the CAD Accumark Gerber system. The basic pattern was made by the wizard tool of Accumark after that creating the MTM pattern. The madeto-measure (MTM) pattern is cut and sewn using a standard-sized base pattern, then constructed to fit each customer individually.

The Study of Automatic Pattern Generation for MTM Product

on Gerber’s Accumark Software

Nguyen Phuong Linh*, Duong Thi Hoan

Hanoi Industrial Textile Garment University, Hanoi, Vietnam

* Corresponding author email: linhnp@hict.edu.vn

Abstract

The study aims to analyze the automatic pattern design process using the CAD Accumark Gerber system The basic pattern was made by the wizard tool of Accumark after that creating the MTM pattern The made-to-measure (MTM) pattern is cut and sewn using a standard-sized base pattern, then constructed to fit each customer individually According to the research, the basic MTM patterns were changed in the important points

of body measurements for pattern design by grading rules and alteration rules based on the research of Vietnam Textile Research Institute JSC No 089.10 RD/HD-KHCN The basic pattern has been designed from size tables of women's clothing, then adjusted the sample measurements to create the MTM pattern The result of the study was a women's pant basic sample pattern, a guide of grading rule pattern size, alteration point numbering, alteration rule, and size code of the women's pants to design and adjustment on the Gerber’s system used for making the MTM pattern apparel manufacturing process

Keywords: Made-to-measure (MTM), CAD, automatic pattern, wizard tool, grading rule, alteration rule

1 Introduction 1

The apparel industry is evolving from the

traditional mass production system to the mass

customization system, which takes into account

individual consumers’ needs People are interested in

switching from conventional mass production

(ready-to-wear), which has problems in size fitness, form, and

style of limited designs or limited standardized sizes,

to mass customization that can produce various

designs and individual sizes This is changing the

program of manufacturing from ready-to-wear to

made-to-measure

Made-to-measure enables manufacturers to build

products on-demand that are mass-customized for

niche markets, various countries, or individual

customers with fit techniques Made-to-measure

(MTM) typically refers to custom clothing that is cut

and sewn using a standard-sized base pattern Suits and

sports coats are the most common garments

made-to-measure The fit of a made-to-measure garment is

expected to be superior to that of a ready-to-wear

garment because made-to-measure garments are

constructed to fit each customer individually based on

a few body measurements to customize the

pre-existing pattern Made-to-measure garments always

involve some form of standardization in the pattern

and manufacturing, whereas bespoke tailoring is

entirely made from scratch based on a customer's

specifications with far more attention to minute fit

details and using multiple fittings during the

ISSN 2734-9381

https://doi.org/10.51316/jst.162.etsd.2022.32.5.3

Received: September 16, 2022; accepted: October 31, 2022

construction process The product of made-to-measure garments will be more expensive than ready-to-wear garments but cheaper than bespoke ones "Custom made" most often refers to MTM

Advanced computer technology is being utilized extensively in the apparel industry from product planning to manufacturing Particularly for fast and accurate production in the apparel manufacturing process, flexible computer-aided manufacturing systems are being applied to apparel manufacturing processes such as apparel pattern making, grading, and marker making The making of clothing patterns or the producing of apparel products according to individual body measurements also uses computer technologies such as several different types including Gerber, Lectra, Investronica, PAD, Optitex [1]

The automatic generation of clothing patterns can

be achieved in two main ways One is the “automatic draft pattern by formula” method, which generates patterns automatically from programmed formulation [2] The other is the “grading” method, which grades

an existing basic pattern used commonly in ready-made clothes according to specific rules [3] By combining the two methods of “automatic draft pattern

by formula” and “grading” for automatically creating individually customized patterns the outcomes of this study are expected to enhance efficiency in drafting individually customized patterns and to contribute to the realization of individual customization of apparel products

The objectives of this study were to design a 2D

pattern by the wizard of Gerber’s Accumark The

wizard is used to set up an automatic program to draw

the basic patterns of clothing, and then the

manufacturers can design the base of the advanced

pattern on it by changing the size of the specification

suitable for the customer group Gerber's Accumark

software had been developed wizard tool and use to

make basic patterns for clothing After the design of

2D basic patterns by Wizard, the author will analyze

the automatic pattern generation process for making

customized MTM patterns based on 2D CAD

technology used currently in the apparel industry and

provide basic materials for the utilization of this

technology in apparel manufacturing for mass

customization

2 Experimental Methods

2.1 Designing the Basic Patterns by Wizard Tool

2.1.1 Wizard tool

The automatic pattern design function (pattern

wizard tool) can create patterns corresponding to

different sizes and parameters suitable for

geographical markets The first wizard tool in

Accumark appeared in the version of Accumark 8.2

with limited functions, only a few basic functions can

be used, then in the later version of the Accumark

software, the function has been enhanced [4]

The feature of the wizard tool is the following:

- Create models that calculate the coordinates of

points from defined dimension measurements;

- Provide necessary tools for drafting patterns;

- Provide the tools and functions needed to

change the model;

- Automatically generate basic patterns and basic

styles for many products in garments;

- Create quantification charts using PDS or other

software

The wizard tool allows automatic drawing of the

patterns according to the specified design formula

system with the body size parameters or the

measurements of product size

The wizard tool is useful for industrial garment

designers and allows changing product dimensions

without redoing and recording the taken steps so that

the designer can check the steps and adjust the

command line if there are any errors when running the

tool

With the wizard tool, the designer only needs to

change the size parameter table to match the new

The initial data to perform drawing design using the wizard tool includes:

- System of design formulas and basic modeling methods;

- Dimensions of the human body;

- Value of allowance technology;

- Values of adjustment

Fig 1 Accumark Gerber wizard tool Content in the wizard tool in Fig 1 is as follows:

- Wizard/ Measure Chart / Creat - Edit

- Wizard/ Recording: Record/ Play/ Edit / Delete

- Wizard/ Scripts: Mens/ Womens/ Childrens/ Industrial

The steps to design the wizard tool are following:

- Step 1: Create the wizard measure chart Accumark > Pattern Design > Wizard > Enter size range > Select base size > Enter design parameters

- Step 2: Create the record of patterns product Accumark > Pattern Design > Wizard > Record > Measure Chart > Select the corresponding parameter table > Detailed rendering > Show command lines > Save the detailed rendering program

The details of the base model will be modeled in blocks, also known as total details Empty details include details like the front and rear bodies After constructing the cube and checking, the details of the base model are extracted

Wizard > Play runs the designed program:

- If there is a mistake or we want to modify the pattern in the design, we need to go to Edit in the wizard to modify it;

- When we want to change the product, we need

to change the data in the measurement chart

Wizard tool used to design the basic clothing, the businesses will design a basic pattern, then follow the requirements of each customer group, and change design data such as parameters, size groups, and

2.1.2 Designing the basic patterns of female pants by

wizard tool

Fig 2 Women’s pants design

In this study, the wizard tool is used to design the basic female pant (as in Fig 2), based on the size tables

of women's clothing of research No 089.10 RD/HĐ-KHCN [5]

Using the formula for calculation of the SEV design system This design system was built for ready-to-wear clothing in the garment industry

The purpose of using the wizard tool to design the basic women's pants is to edit, create MTM pants patterns, and also use this pattern to build a group of basic automatic women's pants data of Vietnamese women's clothing storage according to the Women's size table

The sequence of designing by Wizard tool application for basic clothing groups are following:

- Select the size range and the number of sizes corresponding to the clothing group;

- Set up the new wizard chart table by editing the respectively available design spec sheet following gender, age, and clothing;

- Assign a new design parameter table for recording;

- Run the program and adjust the parameters Step 1 The created measure chart wizard is as follows Fig 3

Step 2 The created record of patterns product is

as follows Fig 4

Fig 3 Measure chart of female pants

Fig 4 Script information of female pant

2.2 Principles of the Automatic MTM Apparel

Pattern-Making System

The object will generate a “grading pattern” first,

and next modified it to an “individually customized

pattern” by applying an alteration rule To

automatically generate the individually customized

clothing patterns, the system needs four kinds of

information: body measurements; basic size pattern

(XY coordinate values of the basic pattern’s points,

and lines representing the pattern’s shape); grading

values of the pattern’s points; and an alteration rule (as

in Fig 5); the automatic pattern making system for

MTM is as in Fig 6

In this study, at 2.1.2 selected style of women’s

pants and a basic pant was created by wizard tool of

Gerber CAD software for making made-to-measure

(MTM) patterns In the next step, critical alteration

points based on body measurements that had an

important effect on pattern composition were

designated The grading rule values were entered into

the critical alteration points from the basic pattern of

154/A based on the size tables of women's clothing of

research No 089.10 RD/HD-KHCN as in Table 1

That is grading rule tables were made by

designating the grading points of pattern and entering

grading rule values which indicate changes in axis X

and Y into each grading point

Table 1 Size table of body measurements for

women

Measurement 154/A 158/A 162/A

Height 154.00 158.00 162.00

High hip 18.50 19.00 19.50

Seam side 97.00 100.00 103.00

The alteration rules were formulated to make a

pattern adjusted by individual body measurements

Each alteration rule was produced by assigning a

unique alteration number to each critical alteration

point and entering an algorithm that alters the critical

alteration points of the pattern according to body

measurements

The size tables were made to enter the standard

basic size and individual size for making an MTM

pattern that reflects an individual’s size from the

basic-size pattern That is the MTM basic-size table was made for

entering basic body measurements into each standard

size of grading size 154/A - 162/A and entering

individual body measurements into customer size In the last step, an MTM pattern reflecting individual body measurement was created by selecting an alteration rule from the ‘Alteration Setup’ window and the ‘Altered Size’ (AM) window and selecting an MTM size table, and then choose an individual size entered in advance

3 Results

3.1 Basic Pattern

Using the basic pattern from designing by the wizard tool has the front, back, and waist belt of the pants; the pattern without seam, has mark notch point

in angle, dart, inseam, and outline as in Fig 7 The patterns were graded with size range 154/A - 162/A

3.2 Grading Rule

Body measurements for critical alteration points that have an important effect on pattern composition were designated In the grading rules, apparel items were designated in a 3-digit number, (e.g T-shirt: 1##, skirt: 2##, pants: 2##), and the number to classify

grading rule values (changes in axis X and Y) for each

alteration point of the pattern was designated in a 2-digit number This principle entered grading point numbers into each point, and graded patterns were generated by entering the grading rule values into the grading points

Fig 7 Basic women’s pants patterns by wizard tool

Fig 8 Grading rule table of pants pattern

The basic women’s pants pattern was designed as

in Fig 7 and the changing size by grading rule table is

in Fig 8 The graded method is small - large

incremental [6] The patterns were graded by the

grading rule values by increasing or decreasing the

difference between each body measurement and the

size breaks

Based on the size table of women's clothing of

research No 089.10 RD/HĐ-KHCN, the grading

values of axis X or axis Y of the pattern were calculated

according to the guidelines of the graded method in

Fig 9

The front and back of the pants pattern are shown

in all sizes as follows in Fig 10

Fig 9 Grade point number of pants pattern

Fig 10 Graded nest of pants pattern

3.3 Alteration Point Numbering

To make an alteration rule table, a unique alteration point number was assigned to each critical alteration point According to the pattern pants piece, alteration points numbered in the pattern piece were given following in Fig 11

Front and back pieces of pants are marked with numbers 31 and 32 as shown in Table 2

Table 2 Alteration points numbers Category Part Point Number Pants Front SF Hem 3100

CF Hem 3110

CF Knee 3120

CF Waist 3150

SF Waist 3160 Back SB Hem 3200

CB Hem 3210

CB Knee 3220 CBWaist 3250

SB Waist 3260

3.4 Alteration Rule

The waist, ankle, knee, thigh, inseam, hip, seat, and rise measurements of critical alteration points which are important in the pattern composition of pants were included in the alteration rule table Alteration rule values were given to the points on the pattern affected by these body measurements

MTM pattern will be created when changing a hold point or a moving point for alteration movement rules such as (1) counterclockwise, no extension, (2) counterclockwise, extension, (3) clockwise, no

extension, (4) clockwise, extension, and (5) X and Y

move

In general, a hold point and a move point should

be defined for these alteration movements The points were moved according to the alteration rule value That is, ‘counter-clockwise, no extension’ indicates a counter clockwise movement from the first point to the second point by the alteration rule value without change in the existing pattern line ‘Counter-clockwise, extension’ indicates a counter clockwise movement by the alteration rule value so that the second point meets the extension of the existing pattern line ‘Clockwise, no extension’ and

‘clockwise,extension’ indicate clockwise movements,

Depending on the type of MTM pattern, changing

a part or whole of each segment is suitable for the new

pattern The number of new sizes will be created when

the change of scale factor is at points by the alteration

rule For other clothing products, the implementation

is similar, as in Fig 12

Fig 12 Alteration rule table of pants

Fig 13 Alteration rule table of pants

3.5 Size Code Table

To make fit patterns for individual body

measurements, develop the size tables based on the

specific difference between the individual

measurements and the reference measurements

As shown in the size table, sizes 154A - 158A - 162A (3SD) are the standard size of body measurements for women Each standard size can enter many new sizes for customers We entered more three sizes(154A/1, 154A/2, 154A/3;158A/1, 158A/2, 158A/3; 162A/1, 162A/2, 162A/3) into each standard size (3SD) to create an MTM pattern from the individual measurements as follows in Fig 13

3.5 Individual MTM Pattern

Making an automatic made-to-measure (MTM) pattern, using the maker creation - editors tool table of Gerber Accumark with the alteration rule table is as follows in Fig 14 and the size table is as follows in Fig 15 Applying the alteration rule, the size table rule with the difference between the standard size and the individual size are combined for making MTM pattern process as in Fig 16

Fig 14 Altered setup of woman’s pant

Fig 15 Altered size of woman’s pant

Fig 16 Altered pattern of woman’s pant

4 Conclusion

This study analyzed the process of making a basic

pattern by wizard tool and then making an MTM

pattern fit for individual body measurements using the

Gerber CAD system to produce mass customization

apparel products

The basic pattern of size 154A was digitized and

graded according to the size tables of women's clothing

of the research No 089.10 RD/HD-KHCN by wizard

tool Then, we can also use this pattern to build a group

of basic automatic women's pants data for Vietnamese

women's clothing Based on the Women's size table we

can design many other patterns for women's clothing

stores in another research By critical alteration rule,

grading points were designated to points altered

according to body measurement, and a grading

algorithm that enters changes in axis X and Y was

implemented for each point

To make an MTM pattern customized to

individual body measurements, alteration rule values

were entered by allocating the difference between the

basic size and the individual size proportionally to

relevant critical alteration points Size tables were

made from the standard body measurements We can

enter individual body measurements into the standard

size The new sizes table is suitable for many

customers The MTM pattern for a custom-fit garment,

which reflected individual body measurements, could

be generated from a standardized ready-made clothes

pattern

The automatic basic design process and the mass

customization process in this study are expected to

contribute to the manufacturing of mass customization

clothes by using the existing ready-to-wear

manufacturing process while reflecting individual

customers’ body characteristics and size as in

custom-made clothes

This study is expected to enhance the efficiency

of individually customized pattern production of the

company in Vietnam We hope this finding will also contribute to the production of better-fitting clothes through more apparel companies using individual customization services and they will increase customer satisfaction

The next research will make automatic basic clothing storage for the needs of Vietnam women We will build patterns for many kinds of women's clothing according to the standard size table and based on the MTM patterns method applying various body sizes to evaluate the appearance and fit of these patterns

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