Halong Ginger For a stellar experience on the water, look no further than the Halong Ginger. Unlike the Emeraude (see below), Halong Ginger is a small, intimate affair, equipped with only 10 cabins all pushed to either side of a central deck to ensure each room has a private, unobstructed view of the ocean. Deluxe rooms come with three large windows, letting in plenty of light and ocean sounds. Rooms have huge bathrooms, especially for a boat, and marble countertops.
Halong Ginger’s cruising route moves away from the traffic of Halong Bay, and unlike other junks in the bay, it doesn’t retrace its path. Passengers board the boat between
How Halong Got Its Karst
Karst—a name derived from a limestone plateau in Slovenia—refers to outcrop- pings of readily soluble rock, commonly limestone, that are eaten away by chem- ical reactions catalyzed by dripping water. The karst outcroppings in Halong—and in places like Guilin in China or Krabi in Thailand—are made of this porous sedi- mentary rock and tend to develop dynamic caves that drip minerals and form stalactites and stalagmites. Other features of limestone karst deposits and ero- sion are wide fissures and underground streams—in short, a constantly chang- ing, dynamic landscape caused by chemical erosion. Some of Halong’s many caves are actually “dead,” meaning that the leaching process is over, but others are constantly changing.
165
NORTHEASTERN COAST
7
HALONG BAY
11:30am and noon, with staff on hand to carry suitcases to your cabin so that you can enjoy a welcome drink on deck. The boat sets off at 12:30pm and a set menu of local seafood is served for lunch half an hour later. The boat docks at Soi Sim, an island in the heart of Halong Bay, where you either take a dip or go for a trek. Then it’s off to Lan Ha Bay, south of Halong Bay, where you are taken into a traditional fishing village. If you opt for kayaking, you can kayak yourself through the village. From here, it’s time to board bamboo boats to maneuver through narrow waterways into a secluded cave.
Dinner aboard the boat is a sumptuous set seafood menu. Finish your evening with drinks on the upper deck. Then it’s a dreamy sleep in your luxe cabin before the early morning tai chi class. The second day is a simple, relaxing cruise back to the hectic pace of land life. The price of Halong Ginger’s overnight cruise is hefty, ranging from $419 to
$493. Book through their website at www.cruisehalong.com or call their offices at
&04/3984-5085 (fax 04/3984-4538). Look out for their junks, the Halong Jasmine
and the Halong Violet, both of which will be smaller, more exclusive, and (incredibly enough) more expensive than the Halong Ginger.
The Emeraude For a unique high-end experience, book passage aboard the Emeraude—a copy of a French steamer that once plied these waters in the early 20th century. Certainly the largest boat, at 55m (180 ft.), the elegant Emeraude has 38 cabins, a fine-dining outlet, and plenty of room to stretch your legs. The luxury trip comes with a price tag, of course, but the 2-day, 1-night cruise is well worth it.
Leaving Hanoi at 8am, you’ll check in at the private Emeraude pier and be walked to the boat. Compact, as ship cabins always are, onboard rooms are decked out in hard- wood, with nice fixtures such as air-conditioning, a private reading lamp, slippers for shuffling about the decks, and a tidy, compact bathroom area with toilet, shower, and a separate room for a small sink stand. Everything on board is retro, which means pleasing hardwood, brass, and fine linens. The oversize wicker chairs on the top deck are cozy, and you’ll find shaded areas as well as sun-worshiping space. A casual, friendly atmosphere pervades, especially when the corks start popping.
Dining on board is a delicious buffet, and most guests find themselves sharing a meal with new friends. Lunch on day 1 is followed by a stop at the Surprise Cave (see “Attrac- tions,” below), then an afternoon of cruising and great views of the islands. The boat docks in a quiet harbor, and guests have an opportunity to, on their own or with a guide, explore nearby Trinh Nu and Hang Trong, the Virgin Cave and the Cave of the Winds, or take a dip in the bay. Dinner is a sumptuous affair of fine local cuisine (heavy on seafood) and good Western options. Enjoy drinks on the upper deck as you watch the moonlight glisten off the bay.
Day 2 starts with tai chi classes on the sun deck as a brilliant sunrise paints its colors on the arching canvas of high limestone peaks jutting from the glassy waters. Blissful.
After your exercise, tuck in to a hearty Western-style breakfast. The boat returns to the dock by 9:30am, and a direct transfer finds you back in Hanoi by lunchtime. The trip is quite memorable, and a ride on this retro ship, outfitted to the nines, is unique to Halong Bay. The price for the overnight cruise is $281 for a luxury cabin for two and $479 for the one-suite room, but discounts for larger groups are available. Shuttle bus transfer from Hanoi costs $35. Check the website at www.emeraude-cruises.com or call the offices at the Press Club in Hanoi (& 04/3934-0888; fax 04/3825-5342).
The Jewel of the Bay Another highly recommended luxury boat (just a step down from the Emeraude), the Jewel of the Bay runs overnight trips concentrating on eco- tourism that include kayaking, touring, and fine dining. For more information or to
166
NORTHEASTERN COAST
7
HALONG BAY
book a trip, contact Buffalo Tours (&04/3828-0702; www.buffalotours.com/jewel).
The company runs varying itineraries, including a trip that loops out as far as Cat Ba.
Buffalo’s boat now has a companion vessel.
The Dragon’s Pearl Run by the people at Handspan (& 04/3926-2828; www.
handspan.com), the very popular Dragon’s Pearl has a high standard comparable to the Jewel of the Bay, and the focus is similarly on hearty eco-tourism and getting away from the crowds.
ATTRACTIONS
The caves and attractions are listed in the order that you’ll reach them on tour from Halong City. All boat trips will point out the prescribed route on a detailed map of Halong Bay or provide a map. Most day trips include stops at one or two of the major caves (but not all). Entrance to the caves is usually included in a tour itinerary, but be sure to specify when booking.
Thien Cung Grotto (Heavenly Cave) One of the most popular caves for day trips, a visit to Thien Cung starts from the crowded dock area where wooden walkways lead to steep stairs going up to the mouth of the cave—just a short walk. The interior is a cavern- ous space, with hokey circus lighting, lots of big rock formations, and the usual interpre- tive names. This is considered the Cave of the Dragon, where the dragon who created Halong sought refuge, and guides are quick to point out one elaborate stalactite that looks like a dragon (or maybe a hoagie, depending on your interpretation). There’s a legend surrounding the cave about a young girl who, in order to end years of oppressive drought, married the presiding dragon in the cave, and their wedding was attended by all in the animal kingdom. Brave girl. It is a “dead cave” in that, unlike many limestone caves, it is no longer dripping water and growing formations of additional deposits or creating new fissures and caves. Lit like a Vegas casino, this is the first cave most visitors reach on the way to Cat Ba Island.
4km (21⁄2 miles) directly east off the shore of Halong City. Admission 30,000 VND. Daily 8am–5pm.
Do Go (The Cave of Stakes) Reputed resting place of the long stakes that Tran Hung Dao used to sink the Chinese fleet that came to attack Halong and Haiphong, Do Go is a massive cave with three chambers, not far from the Thien Cung Grotto (see above).
Included with entrance to the Thien Cung Grotto (see above). Daily 8am–5pm.
Surprise Cave What’s the surprise? The French arrived and said, “Mon dieu!
Why, it is a cave!” Discovered in 1901, this very large grotto was used by Viet Cong as a hide-out during the war with the United States. A short, steep climb up paved steps leads you to three chambers, the last being the largest. In 1999, the Chinese cooperated to install lights and a safe pathway through the cave. A tour of the cave usually involves a guide leading you on an interpretive stalagmite hunt. Guides like to point out a large phallic formation glowing under a bright red spotlight—Freudian interpretations of the rock formations abound. Also look for tiger, dragon, and penguin formations, as well as unique “melon ball” stalactites. Toward the top of the cave are viewing platforms over- looking the sprawling bay, with its myriad junks, far below.
Admission 30,000 VND. Daily 8am–5pm.
Drum and Virgin Cave Adjoining the most popular place for overnights in Halong Bay, this stunning and quiet nook in the bay is a place where you might be able to inter- act with some local fisherman if you can get out on the water in a kayak. The caves are
167
NORTHEASTERN COAST
7
CAT BA ISLAND
on opposite sides of the calm bay, and each is but a shallow area. Some tours even set up fully catered meals with banquet tables in the caves.
Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk.
Ba Hung Informally called the Indochine Cave ever since the film starring Catherine Deneuve was shot here, this short grotto leads to a hollowed island lagoon with steep walls of jungle surrounding shallow salty waters. On budget trips to Cat Ba Island, boats stop at the entrance and small shuttle boats will take you to the cave through low open- ings. The cost is 20,000 VND for the short ride, but the proceeds allegedly go to help the small floating school in the nearby floating village (you pass the school on the way).
Free admission. Boat ride is 20,000 VND. Daily dawn–dusk.
4 C AT B A I S L A N D
I first came to Cat Ba in 1998 on an overnight tour by boat from Halong City. At the time, the little bay of Cat Ba was choked with beat-up old fishing junks, and the quiet little oceanside strip had but a few budget hotels. A sturdy Russian Minsk motorbike was the main mode of transport. Oh, but the times they are a-changin’.
The population of little Cat Ba Island is now over 30,000, the bay has been cleared of junks (all fishing vessels must park a few hundred meters offshore), and the main seaside avenue has been widened. There are a number of midrange high-rise hotels, and even a luxury resort on the Cat Co III beach just north of town. Direct high-speed boat service runs from Hanoi via Haiphong, or, even better, try the direct bus that goes from the town center, rides on a ferry, and delivers you to the center of Haiphong or on to Hanoi. The town is very busy with Hanoi weekenders, especially in the summer, and thus best avoided then (the hotel prices are often nearly double on summer weekends). Most travelers zip through on 1-night package tours, but it’s best to arrange your own transport to this area. Tours to Cat Ba limit you to dinner with the group and a strict schedule. I recommend booking a tour with a group for transport only or making Cat Ba your last stop on a budget tour of Halong Bay, and then arranging your own hotel and making your own schedule for your time in Cat Ba. The Cat Ba National Park has some good trails to explore, and the interior of the island and the rocky eastern coast are great places to get off the map (contact any hotel tour desk for an all-day tour of the island). You might want to check out the April 1 festival that commemorates Ho Chi Minh’s visit to the island: It’s quite a grand fete, with dragon-boat races and a big fashion show.
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
BY BOAT/BUS Most visitors get to Cat Ba on tours through Hanoi’s budget cafes. The typical boat journey includes an exploration of Halong Bay and an overnight on the island, but more and more folks are now booking their boat journey through Halong with a tour company, then ending the trip in Cat Ba and taking the reigns from there.
You might even arrange a stop in Haiphong or onward to Ninh Binh.
New on the scene, with a very fast bus-to-boat service, Hoang Long Bus Company (in Hanoi, 28 Tran Nhat Duat, &04/3928-3720; in Haiphong, 11 Tran Nguyen Han,
&0313/700-778; on Cat Ba Island, &0313/887-224) runs four times daily from Cat
Ba back to the mainland at Haiphong and on to Hanoi. They have air-conditioned buses that pick you up and whisk you to the dock of a high-speed ferry. Departure times from Hanoi start at 4:50am and run every 30 minutes; the last departure is at 9pm. From
168
NORTHEASTERN COAST
7
CAT BA ISLAND
Haiphong, boats start at 6:05am and the last one leaves at 9:05pm. Return tickets will set you back 60,000 VND.
A high-speed ferry also leaves from the pier at the town center every half-hour between 7am and 5pm. The cost is 90,000 VND. Contact Thuong Nhat Transport Cooperative (cosponsored by Vietnamese and Japanese) through the folks at the Sunflower Hotel (Nui Ngoc Rd., just 20m/66 ft. off the seaside boulevard; &0313/888-429), where they can arrange a ticket.
WHERE TO STAY
Cat Ba Sunrise Resort This new small resort sets a whole new standard on little Cat Ba. On a strip of reclaimed land between mountain and beach, the resort is set in a small protected cove called Cat Co III beach. To get to the cove, you have to walk up a flight of steps from the road, then down steps to the narrow beachside strip. Cat Co Beach III connects with the other Cat Co beaches by a high walkway carved into the rocks along the shore. The resort has a midsize central pool overlooking a thin stretch of beach lined with tidy lawn chairs and thatch umbrellas. The space is tight, hemmed in by the dark rocky shore and cliffs that surround the little enclave, but the rooms are of a high stan- dard and the place has enough amenities to cover all the bases. Clean, tiled rooms have beds draped with burgundy covers, matching heavy drape curtains, and dark-wood built- in cabinets. Suites are large and luxurious, with redwood trimmings, and unique are the top-floor family suites—great for parents traveling with kids. All units have sea views, and most have balconies. The place is just getting going and glitches abound—unfortu- nate is the piped-in Vietnamese pop music at poolside. But you’ll find good dining options in a spacious and lively open-air bar. Beach parties with bonfires are held for special groups.
Cat Co III Beach, Cat Ba Island. & 0313/887-360. Fax 0313/887-365. catba-sunriseresort@vnn.vn. 39 units. $120–$132 double; $205 suite. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; small health club w/sauna and Jacuzzi; outdoor pool in courtyard; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar, Wi-Fi.
Holiday View Hotel Holiday View, the only international-standard hotel on Cat Ba, has raised the bar along the busy shorefront. The 13-story tower, on the north end of the main Cat Ba strip, offers new and neat accommodations, though not particularly luxurious ones. Owned by Vinaconex, a Vietnamese manufacturer and retailer, the hotel is strangely empty. Rumor has it that the building was put up just about as fast as you can say “money laundering,” and the hotel is just getting going. Standard rooms are somewhat compact but offer cool wood floors and tidy coverlets on beds. Everything is clean and not musty (yet). Bathrooms have granite counters but are the guesthouse vari- ety, with shower nozzles that open to the toilet and sink area (kind of a disappointment for this category). Better are the large corner rooms, especially on higher floors with good views of the busy bay out front. Deluxe rooms have bathtubs and a lot more space—
they’re worth the upgrade. The Holiday View caters mainly to regional businessmen and small conventions, but it’s also a good choice for an individual traveler.
Zone 4, Cat Ba Town (north end of the main strip, on the way to the beaches). & 0313/887-200. Fax 0313/887-209. holidayviewhotel@vnn.vn. 120 units. $50–$74 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar.
In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar, Wi-Fi.
Prince Hotel Just a few meters off the main street, Prince Hotel is an old standby.
The staff is still friendly as can be, happily accommodating any wish—from hiring guides, to renting motorbikes, to purchasing onward transport—but the place is pretty beat up. Don’t miss a chance to talk with the helpful and effusive front-office manager.
169
NORTHEASTERN COAST
7
CAT BA ISLAND
(Note: His name tag really reads “Elton John,” and if you chat with him long enough, he’ll be singing; he’s a very kind young man, a “candle in the wind” even.) Set in a tower- ing courtyard, the rooms are best on the top floor with views over surrounding buildings to the bay; otherwise, expect to look at concrete walls.
303 Nui Ngoc Rd., Cat Ba Town (just 20m/66 ft. up a side road off the seaside boulevard). & 0313/888- 899. Fax 0313/888-7666. www.catbatravel.com. 80 units. $25–$40 double. MC, V. Amenities: 2 restau- rants; bar; health club w/Jacuzzi. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar, Wi-Fi.
Sunflower One Hotel A brightly lit lobby of crayon yellow greets you at this popu- lar hotel among tour groups. If only the staff were so bright and cheery—but with the many tours coming through, they hear many complaints from budget tourists who’d expected more. The clean rooms are comparable to what you’ll find at nearby Prince Hotel (see above), but the greeting and service at the Prince is far more kind and genuine.
Still, Sunflower One remains the pick for Sinh Café tours, which means folks will keep coming.
Nui Ngoc Rd., Cat Ba Town (just 20m/66 ft. up a side road off the seaside boulevard). & 0313/888-429.
Fax 0313/888-451. sunflowerhotel@hn.vnn.vn. 72 units. $25–$90 double. No credit cards. Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar, Wi-Fi.
Yen Thanh Hotel Typical of the budget hotels in Cat Ba, the Van Anh is a standard minihotel, but its friendly staff and central location raise it one notch above the rest.
Rooms are big and clean but rather basic. Best are the rooms overlooking the oceanside fountain and the busy bay. The hotel is owned by the mayor of Cat Ba, who, like it or not, is responsible for the growth of tourism along the Cat Ba town strip. This hotel is named for his daughter.
220 Zone 1/4, Cat Ba Town (right across from the high-speed ferry landing on the town’s main drag).
& 0313/888-201. 22 units. 500,000 VND double. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C,
TV, fridge, Wi-Fi.
WHERE TO DINE
Seafood dining on the bay is not what it once was. Petrol spills abound, and I was pad- dled out to a seafood joint similar to one I’d visited years ago, and what was brought up from their live well was just a handful of dead shrimp. Cooking conditions are not real hygienic, and these folks weigh your catch when wet, then just chop it all up with a cleaver, and cook it. These restaurants are not really atmospheric, and they provide nei- ther good value nor good quality. Stick to dining on the mainland. (Note: One floating restaurant that you can reach by a walkway from shore serves good fresh fish and seafood from clean live tanks; see Bien Xanh, below).
The main drag of Cat Ba is chockablock with small storefront eateries. Young hostesses stand out front and try to get your attention, drag you in, and fill you up with seafood by the pound. Prices are reasonable. These places are nothing spectacular but are a good value for local seafood. Try My Ngoc (see below). I had a meal of deep-fried squid that was positively succulent and cost less than a McDonald’s Happy Meal.
Just offshore, Bien Xanh (at the north end on the way to the beaches; &0313/887- 529; daily 6–11pm) is Cat Ba’s only quality floating restaurant. In an entirely different school from the little floating restaurants in the bay, Bien Xanh is connected to shore by a walkway and gangplanks; inside, find a fine-dining area and good fresh fish and seafood much like the town’s other oceanside restaurants, but here you’re in a quieter and more romantic setting.