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Tiêu đề How to Cook Everything Fast A Better Way to Cook Great Food, 2nd Edition
Tác giả Mark Bittman
Thể loại book
Năm xuất bản 2014
Thành phố New York
Định dạng
Số trang 2.858
Dung lượng 8,59 MB

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How to Cook Everything How to Cook Everything Vegetarian How to Cook Everything The Basics VB6: Eat Vegan Before 6:00 The VB6 Cookbook Food Matters The Food Matters Cookbook The Best Rec

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How to Cook Everything How to Cook Everything Vegetarian How to Cook Everything The Basics VB6: Eat Vegan Before 6:00

The VB6 Cookbook

Food Matters

The Food Matters Cookbook The Best Recipes in the World Fish: The Complete Guide to Buying and Cooking Leafy Greens

Mark Bittman’s Kitchen Express Mark Bittman’s Quick and Easy Recipes from The New York Times The Mini Minimalist

Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef Simple to

Spectacular

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Design by MGMT design Illustrations copyright © 2014 by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt.

Illustrations by Olivia de Salve Villedieu.

All rights reserved.

For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book, write to Permissions, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company, 215 Park Avenue South, New York, New York 10003.

www.hmhco.com

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available.

ISBN 978-0-470-93630-6 (cloth); ISBN 978-0-544-33340-6 (ebk)

v1.1014

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To my fabulous women-children, Kate and Emma, who have always beenthere for me.

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How to Cook Everything Fast—let’s just call it Fast—has been, like all the

books in this series, a massive undertaking (do you feel how heavy it is?), a hugeand (for those of us involved in it) hugely important project, many years in

conception and quite a few in the making It’s not just a big book, and it’s notjust a good recipe collection: It’s a collection of recipes in a style we’ve devised

to teach you how to cook in the way people who really know how do all thetime

It wasn’t easy, and I didn’t do it by myself In fact, like all the How to CookEverything books, this was a team effort Kerri Conan and I have now worked

on something like ten books together, and none of them would’ve happenedwithout her On this one, our efforts were eased by those of Daniel Meyer, whobore the lion’s share of recipe conception, writing, and testing; and Jennifer

Griffin, who was the editor of the original How to Cook Everything (1997!) and

has joined us in getting things ready for our current editors at HMH, chief

among them the stellar Adam Kowit

Others who deserve credit on “our” side include my agent of 25-plus years,Angela Miller; the great Chris Benton; and Megan Gourley, Eve Turow, ElenaGoldblatt, Maria Fantaci, and David Bowers At HMH, we are lucky enough tohave been working under the steady hands of Bruce Nichols and Natalie

Chapman, and we owe gratitude to the amazing Rebecca Liss, the steadfast

Linda Ingroia, and to Molly Aronica, Brad Parsons, Jessica Gilo, Marina PadakisLowry, Jamie Selzer, David Futato, Tom Hyland, Kevin Watt, Michaela

Sullivan, Melissa Lotfy, and of course the wonderful Laurie Brown

We talk a lot about text and recipes, because we—most of the people

mentioned above—work in words But designing Fast took about 30,000

iterations (okay, an exaggeration; 20,000) until it reached what we believe is thegorgeous, accessible, well-organized book you’re holding That design is thanks

to MGMT Design: Alicia Cheng, Pilar Torcal, and Olivia de Salve Villedieu,who also did the helpful illustrations scattered throughout

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Finally, the amount contributed here by Kelly Doe can’t be overestimated.The imprints of her index finger are everywhere

Mark Bittman

New York City, Summer 2014

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FAST NAVIGATION

VEGETARIAN MAIN DISHES KITCHEN NOTES

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Helpful ways to search for recipes.

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Go-to components, built into other recipes

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Bacon Vinaigrette

Gorgonzola Dressing

Lemon-Dill Yogurt DressingCaper and Mustard DressingCaesar Dressing

Warm Bacon-Dijon DressingRussian Dressing

Cumin Vinaigrette

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Warm Garlic OilOnion Dip

Orange Syrup

Whipped Cream

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Fresh Salsa

Skillet Tomatillo SalsaAvocado Salsa

Skillet Pineapple SalsaSalsa Roja

Pico de Gallo

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Recipes that pack a punch quickly

Endive and Radicchio with Bacon Vinaigrette

Green Bean Salad with Caramelized Onions and Toasted AlmondsHot and Sour Bok Choy with Mussels

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Roast Turkey Breast with Sage Sausage Stuffing

Skillet Meat Loaf

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Pork and Onion CarnitasBreakfast BruschettaEndive Spears with OlivesTortillas Rojas

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Three-Stir Mushroom Risotto

Fast Thai Sticky Rice with Meaty Vegetable SaucePozole and Pork Chops

Unstuffed Cabbage

Stuffed Poblanos with Black Beans and CheeseSkillet Spanakopita

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Tomato and Chicken Salad with Basil Vinaigrette

BLT Salad with Rosemary-Mayo Dressing

Kimchi and Snow Pea Salad with Grilled or Broiled BeefCharred Brussels Sprout Salad with Walnuts and GorgonzolaRadish and Herb Butter Baguette

Broiled Cheese

Peanut Butter and Banana Sandwich with Honey and RaisinsTofu Sandwich with Cucumber and Hoisin Mayo

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No-Bake Fruit and Cereal Bars

Maple-Orange Oatmeal with Caramelized PecansHoney-Cheddar Grits with Sage

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Radish and Herb Butter Baguette

Broiled Cheese

Peanut Butter and Banana Sandwich with Honey and RaisinsHummus and Vegetable Pita Pockets

Tofu Sandwich with Cucumber and Hoisin Mayo

Smoky Black Bean and Carrot Burgers

Egg Salad Sandwich with Lots of Vegetables

Eggplant Parmesan Sub

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Rice, Beans, and Broccoli

Rice with Cabbage, Scrambled Eggs, and ScallionsThree-Stir Mushroom Risotto

Curried Lentils and Rice with Fried Onions

Quinoa Pilaf with Chickpeas and Dried Fruit

Smoky Bulgur with Eggplant, Dried Tomatoes, and FetaCouscous Gratin with Leeks and Gruyère

Masa and Rajas

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Tortilla Lasagna

Skillet Spanakopita

Cauliflower Tikka with Boiled Eggs

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Beans on Toast

Hot and Sour Black Beans with Bok Choy

Stewed White Beans and Tomatoes with Parmesan ToastStir-Fried Curried Chickpeas with Potatoes and CarrotsLemony Limas with Broccoli

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Dressing Salad on the Fly

Shaving Parmesan

More Uses for Warm VinaigretteDIY Nut Butter

“Blooming” Ground SpicesMiso

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Creamy Green Sauces

Vegetable Pan Sauce

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Substituting Brown Rice for WhiteFermented Black Beans

Rice Cakes

Paella Rice

Crisp Grains

Impromptu Lasagnas and GratinsBraising with Beans

Timing Bulgur

Big Batch Muesli or Granola

Topping Grits

A Few Tips for Cooking PancakesLeaving Lumps

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Lamb Chops

Yogurt

Cooking Fried Eggs EvenlyScrambling Eggs

Scrambled Eggs for a Crowd

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Dessert Staples

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INTRODUCTION

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Cooking is an essential human activity It can relax us after long, stressful days, bring us closer to our families, and put a lifetime of nourishment and endless eating

possibilities right at our fingertips Then why do we avoid it? Many of us claim we just don’t have time to cook, and given the abundance of restaurants and food companies jockeying to feed us, that has become a perfectly

acceptable position.

In the last 50 years, the way we feed ourselves has changed, and with reason More women are in the

workforce than ever before; kids rush between activities and sports and often arrive home as late as their parents Even people without children have less time to spend

planning, shopping, and cooking, as we work more hours than we used to.

Yet as eaters we’ve become more sophisticated; we understand and experience and appreciate flavors that

were once foreign, and we care more than ever about the quality of the ingredients we buy We know what eating well is but often don’t have the time to do it, so we settle for eating fast.

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meals on the table Life may have become more

complicated, but cooking can become simpler.

The fact is that you do have time to cook: You just need better recipes Imagine a road map that captures the rhythm of the kitchen, where preparation and cooking happen seamlessly Soup begins to simmer while you

prepare more vegetables for the pot; oil shimmers in a skillet as you chop an onion; broiled meat rests while rice steams This is naturally fast cooking, the kind

experienced cooks do intuitively.

Fast cooking involves strategy, not compromise Here

I take seemingly complicated dishes like wonton soup and spanakopita and reduce them to their essentials,

taking them apart and reconstructing them with all the flavors and textures you love about the originals Smart, easy techniques, like cutting meat into smaller pieces for lightning-quick braises and harnessing the power of the broiler, give you all the pleasure of eating homemade

meals with minimal work and—perhaps more important

—time.

The result is delicious food prepared from real

ingredients—and quickly There are plenty of shortcuts

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or texture (When they do, they’re worth it.) As a

practical purist, I open cans and boxes like everyone else, provided what’s inside is nutritious and minimally

processed (See Shortcut Cheat Sheet for a checklist of what qualifies as convenience food in this book; if you’re

already a How to Cook Everything fan, there won’t be

any surprises.)

In short, How to Cook Everything Fast is both a series

of strategies and a collection of all-new recipes that do the thinking for you Whether you’re a beginner hoping

to learn how to weave homemade meals into your regular routine or an experienced cook looking to become more efficient, I can help you get where you want to be, while giving you all the time you need.

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Key Tools

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realizing it, you’ll hone your skills and become naturally more efficient whenever you cook.

Real-Time Cooking

The process of getting a home-cooked meal on the table involves four tasks:shopping, preparation, cooking, and cleaning up Common “wisdom” wouldhave you complete these steps linearly, finishing one before beginning the next.Shop Unpack the groceries Wash, trim, chop, slice, dice Stand at the stove.Serve Eat Tackle the dishes

But that approach ignores the natural rhythm of experienced cooks In reality,the action ebbs and flows within a span of time rather than to the beat of a

ticking clock While something simmers, roasts, or sautés, you have the

flexibility to make a loop between counter, fridge, and stove, pause at the sink towash some dishes, or work on making a salad Efficiency comes when you puttime on your side and maximize every minute

This is real-time cooking, where gathering, preparing, and combining

ingredients become one seamless endeavor It’s both faster and easier than themore common step-by-step process and embodies concepts that are not onlyfundamental to these recipes but applicable to all others Embrace real-timecooking and you’ll be looking at the components of cooking—food, tools, andtechniques—from a completely different perspective

Helping Hands

Actually, too many cooks don’t spoil the broth; some of the best moments in thekitchen involve sharing a countertop with family and friends Even one extra set

of hands can be a huge help (If there’s a youngster around who’s willing andable, you’ll be spreading the joy into the next generation.) In fact these recipesare perfect for divvying up tasks among all your helpers; see “Do the Blue”

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It’s not a new concept, but you can cook one dish and call it dinner; it helps, of

course, if you serve it with a couple of very simply executed appetizers, sides, and desserts So the bulk of the recipes in Fast are for main courses that eat like

meals, dishes that bring several components (like meat, vegetables, and starches)together on one plate in ways that both retain their distinction and integrity andcreate a whole that’s more than the sum of its parts Of course if you have theinclination, you can make a starter or try a salad, vegetable, noodle, rice, or graindish from Sides, which are easy to prepare while you’re cooking the mains

(you’ll find specific suggestions after each recipe) These strategies provideplenty of options in this book for assembling all kinds of fast meals, from

everyday kitchen-table lunches and dinners to breakfasts, parties, and

celebrations (For a tutorial on other recipe features, see A New Kind of Recipe.)

Make Room for Dessert

For many of us, finishing the meal with a little something sweet isn’t a luxurybut a necessity I’ve always favored simpler desserts so it seems natural to

include a chapter of mostly familiar favorites, now streamlined to the point

where they become easy enough for typical weeknights Most, in fact, can bepulled together in the few minutes before you get started on the main dish andsides; you can prepare many of them up to several hours in advance And someare so fast you can whip them up while someone else gets a head start on

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Fast Ingredients

A well-stocked kitchen is the backbone of fast cooking; this section lists the staples to keep in your pantry, fridge, and freezer and provides a quick rundown of which time- saving ingredients are worth buying I’ve also included two charts to inspire improvisation: a substitution chart for those times when you don’t have (or don’t fancy) a particular ingredient; and a flavor profile chart that

groups the seasonings and key ingredients of various

cuisines so you can see how to vary recipes easily But before you can cook, you’ve got to shop.

Every kitchen should have the ingredients in the

charts that follow Some are no-brainers, like salt and

pepper, while others are the kinds of instant flavor

boosters that are essential for fast cooking, like soy sauce and real Parmesan cheese Other flavor-packed

ingredients (not absolute essentials, but nice to have

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Pantry Staples

Consider these the essentials (Some actually keep better in the fridge but areconsidered pantry items.) As you explore the recipes you’ll customize this list

them when you want a more neutral flavor than olive oil (although peanut oil

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Storage: Best refrigerated; keep a small jar on the counter or in a cabinet for

immediate use

VINEGARS

Sherry vinegar is my favorite; other wine vinegars are also good; balsamic andrice vinegars are lower in acidity and useful

Storage: Vinegar keeps for at least a year at room temperature A cloudy

sediment might settle at the bottom of the bottle; don’t worry about it

SALT & BLACK PEPPER

I use coarse kosher or sea salt for almost everything Good quality pregroundpepper is fine, but grinding your own is preferable and easy

Storage: Keep in a cool, dark (and handy) place Replace what you don’t use

within a year (Scrawl the date on the label when it goes in and you’ll knowwhen the time’s up.)

GARLIC, ONIONS, AND GINGER

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or both, while ginger is essential to Asian cooking

Storage: Keep garlic and onions in a basket or bowl on the counter; they’ll

last for weeks (Refrigerate for longer storage.) Once you slice into a knob ofginger, store it loosely wrapped in the fridge until it starts to look funky—usually a couple of weeks

RICE AND OTHER GRAINS

The quickest-cooking, and therefore most used here, are white rice (short orlong grain), couscous, bulgur, and quinoa There are other options if you canwork ahead or have a little more time; see Rice and Grains

Storage: A cabinet is fine, but if you have room, they’ll keep better and

longer in the freezer (Cooked grains freeze well for several months too Seethe recipe for Easy Cooked Grains.)

DRIED PASTA AND NOODLES

There are plenty of different shapes to choose from in both white and wholewheat varieties Italian pastas are usually best, and the shapes are mostlyinterchangeable See the Pasta chapter for a rundown of Asian noodles

Storage: These will keep indefinitely.

DRIED BEANS

Cheap, delicious, and easy to cook (see the Beans chapter for an all-purposerecipe) but time-consuming Except for lentils, the recipes in this book call forcanned or frozen beans (or your own precooked beans—whenever you havesome handy)

Storage: The longer you keep these, the longer they’ll take to cook So don’t

buy more than you’ll use within a few months

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