Ebook A comprehensive dictionary of textile: Phần 1

a durable plain weave fabric characterised by width wise cords formed by using fine warp yarns and course weft yarns, used in dresses, coats, suits, ribbons, dr[r]

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(OMPREHENJIVE

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TEXTILE

Chief Editor & Compiler:

~

ABHISHEK

All rights reserved No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, electronically or otherwise, in print, photoprint, micro film or

by any other means without written permission from the publi s her

ISBN

Copyright

Revised Edition

Published by

Publisher

2010

ABHISHEK PUBLICATIONS,

S.C O 57-59, Sector 17-C,

CHANDIGARH-1600 17 (India)

Ph.-2707562,Fax-OI72-2704668

Email: abhpub@yahoo.com

978-81-8247-342-3

Preface

Textiles are fibres that are spun into yarn or made into fabric by weaving, knitting, braiding, and felting The term is now applicable to natural and synthetic filaments, yarns, and threads as well as to the woven, knitted, felted, tufted, braided, bonded, knotted, and embroidered fab-rics The spinning and weaving were one of the first crafts that is believed to have been practiced as early as the New Stone Age In ancient Egypt, the earliest textiles were woven from flax in India, Peru, and Cambodia, from cotton in the Southern European; from wool in China Textile also includes non-woven fabrics produced by me-chanically or chemically bonding fibres Computerised tex-tile mill with multiple machines run continuously to pro-duce textiles in the modern market In a mill, the initial stage of processing fibre into fabric is almost entirely co-ordinated and controlled by computer Computers are able

to execute complex weaving and spinning jobs with great speed and accuracy Most are equipped with monitoring sensors that will stop production if an error is detected The initial stage of textile manufacturing involves the pro-duction of the raw material either by farmers who raise cotton, sheep, silkworms, or flax or by chemists who duce fibre from various basic substances by chemical cesses The fibre is spun into yarn, which is then pro-cessed into fabric in a weaving or knitting mill After dyeing and finishing, the woven material is ready for de-livery either directly to a manufacturer of textile products

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to finally get stitched into clothes that we wear

This book gives you an insight for terminology used in the textile industry It should be helpful for everyone who

is associated with garment, and textile industry

II aha I accfJrdion

.aba

a loose cloak, possibly of

Ara-bian origin related to the J ama

in men's wear

• abaca

this vegetable leaf fibre is

de-rived from the Musa textiles

plant It is mainly grown in the

Philippines but is also found, in

smaller amounts in Mrica,

Ma-laysia, Indonesia and Costa

Rica The fibre is obtained from

the outer layer of the leaf

Pro-cessing occurs when it is

sepa-rated mechanically decorticated

into lengths varying from 3 to

9 feet Abaca is very strong and

has great lustre It is very

resis-tant to damage from salt

wa-ter

• abho

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~ • absorbency

~ the ability of a fabric to take in

; moisture Absorbency is a very : important property, which

af-~ fects many other characteristics

I such as skin comfort, static

~ build-up, shrinkage, stain re-: moval, water repelience, and

~ wrinkle recovery

~ • abstract

~ refers to a design in the abstract

I style, i.e one that represents a : general form and not an

accu-~ rate representation of a subject

~ • accessories

~ additional ornamentation to

; accompany the garment in or-: der to create a certain

look/im-~ age (shoes, jewelleries etc.)

a loose shirt-like garment,

worn by women mostly in

Gujarat and Rajasthan The I

garment is generally worn I

with short, wide sleeves, open

at the neck, loose-fitting on

the upper part and really I

flared in its skirt Often

deco-~ • accordion rated with embroidery and

mirror-glass work ~ Ixl rib knit alternating with a

; 2x2 rib

T l l x t i l e = = = = = = = = II

6 aeet4te IlIChkan II

• acetate I chloride) or ethanoic (acetic)

1 acetate, one of the ftrst manu- I acid The reaction proceeds un-factured ftbres is soft and has a til primary cellulose acetate con-crisp feel It has the lustrous taining 60% of combined appearance of silk and excellent I ethanoic acid is formed Second-drapability It is not a strong ft- I ary cellulose acetate is formed bre, as it is resistance to abra- from the primary acetate by sion is poor It does resist I partial hydrolysis It is obtained shrinkage, moths, and mildew I by adding water in excess of that and does not absorb moisture I required to react with the re-readily Its yarns are pliable and sidual ethanoic anhydride, supple and will always sprig I which thus allows the hydroly-back to their original shape It I sis to take place

is fast drying and when heated I • acetone-soluble cellulose becomes more pliable Acetone ethanoate

and alcohol dissolve acetate ft- I

: when the hydrolysis of primary bres Special dyes are required ~ cellulose ethanoate (acetate) is

if it is be coloured Today ac- allowed to proceed until ap-etate can be found in a variety ~

of colours proximately 54% of combined

ethanoic (acetic) acid remains in

2 the term used to describe ft- I the product, the cellulose ac-bres of cellulose ethanoate (ac- etate is soluble in propanone etate) wherein between 74% (acetone) and is sometimes and 92% of the hydroxyl groups I known as acetone-soluble

cellu-of the original cellulose are I lose acetate

ethanoylated (acetylated)

Puri-fied cellulose is ethanoylated

(acetylated) byethanoic

anhy-dride (acetic anhyanhy-dride) in the

presence of a catalyst (such as

I • acetylation

I the process of introducing an ethanoyl (acetyl) radical into an organic molecule

sulphuric acid or perchloric I • achkan

acid) in a solvent such as

dichloromethane (methylene a men's long-sleeved coat-like

I garment, worn close to the

II = = = = = = = = ' H x t i l e

7

.~====~~==~==

knees or even lower, and

; substantiality It is the difference

applied from an acidic or neu- : bath

I

has an uneven surface makin : reSIstant

macromolecules having in the : batt) of staple fibres in which

recurring cyanoethene (acry- ; air stream and condensed from

- acrylic coated

fab-acrylic resin to make it water- ; ric traditionally of wool or wool

: surface So named because the

8

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an albatross Usually light in

colour, used in infant's wear,

sleep wears

• albert cloth

it has a double layer of wool and

is reversible Faces and backs

I droxide, the remainder being

I water During the steeping of the cellulose in sodium hydrox-ide (18-20% wjw) to form the

I alkali-cellulose, soluble impuri-ties, including soluble cellulose are removed

may vary in colour and pattern I

Provides additional warmth and • alley

I machines in which the alley ten-der works

a needlepoint lace on a fme net

ground characterised by a heavy I

thread (cordon net) outlining

the design Usually machine

made but sometimes the cordon

net is inserted by hand

• alligator skin

a design, printed or embossed,

I that suggests the characteristic

I texture of an alligator

I • allonge-perruqe

• alginate (fibre) (generic

a term used to describe fibres called state-wig Worn by fash-composed of metallic salts of ~ ionable men in the late 17th,

usu-ally in black or dark brown the product of the interaction of I shades The periwig had very strong sodium hydroxide with ~ high 'horns' on top of the fore-purified cellulose.note: in the head and was extremely long, manufacture of viscose fibres, I curled and flowing down the the cellulose may be cotton lint- I back and over the shoulders ers or wood-pulp Mter

press-ing, alkali-cellulose usually con- I • allover lace

tains approximately 30% of cel- I general term for a wide lace in lulose and 15% of sodium hy- which the pattern covers the full

11======Thaile

II alpaca I angora

width of the fabric It is

gener-ally sold and cut in the same way

as non-lace fabrics

- alpaca

a natural hair fibre obtained

from the Alpaca sheep, a

do-mesticated member of the

llama family The fibre is most

commonly used in fabrics made

into dresses, suits, coats, and

sweaters Also imitated in wool,

wool and alpaca, rayon, mohair

and rayon or cotton and a

cot-ton warp and alpaca filling also

synthetics e.g orlon

Fine, silk -like, soft, lightweight

and warm It is very rich and

silky with considerable lustre

and resembles mohair If guard

hairs are used, it is inclined to

be beardy It is strong and

du-rable Alpaca is found in white,

black, fawn or grey The fibres

are less coarse than those of the

llama but are higher in tensile

strength

- alter

to change the pattern so that it

corresponds to body

measure-ments

9

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~ on the back of the hand,

in-; vented in 1684 by MIle Ie : Rochois, an actress at the

op-~ era, who had unsightly arms

1

: _ anaphe

~ a wild silk from the larvae of

~ the Anaphe moth

~ - angarakfia

; a long, full-sleeved outerwear : for men, literally 'that which

: protects or covers the hmbs'

~ Closely related to the J ama

; (q.v.), but possibly of native, : Indian origin Generally open at

~ the chest and tied in front, with

1 an inner flap or parda covering

~ the chest Full-skirted and of : varying lengths

1

: _ angiaiangika

~ short, tight-fitting bodice worn

~ by women in India from very

; early times Literally, 'covering : for the body'

1

: - angora

I : the hair of the angora rabbit

~ The origin of the angora breed

; is unclear It is believed to

: corne from France, developed

~ from a mutation in a wild

I

· the hair of the Angora goat is tight-fitting sleeve continuing

Thxtile======11

~lO===========;"Bom904t IIIPJNIrentwtdlthiclmess II

referred to as mohair I raffe are popular motifs

I a dye that dissociates in aque-ous solution to give a negatively charged ion

smooth and white It varies in

fmeness and is highly resilient,

very strong and has high lustre

Its value is determined by its I

lustre and not its sofmess

• anti bacterial finish that makes a fabric

resis-I tant to the growth of bacteria Used extensively in industries

such as ·carpet, upholstery, cur- I • anti pill

tain an~utomobile cloth I a fmish applied to fleece which

hair from the angora rabbit It I that the fabric is less likely to

is indigenous to Asia Minor and pill

Turkey Often blended and • antique satin

mixed with wool to lower the I a reversible fabric, one side price of the fmished article or I looks like satin and the other

to obtain fancy or novelty ef- side like shantung It often has

• anidex (fibre)

a term used to describe fibres

made from a synthetic linear

polymer that consists of at least

50% by mass of one or more

esters of a monohydric alcohol

and propenoic acid (acrylic

acid)

• animal skin

refers to a design which

sug-gests the skin of an animal

Leopard, tiger, zebra and

gi-I the texture Often used for

I draperies

I • antique taffeta

a stiff plain weave fabric , often iridescent, with a stubbed weft

~ May be of silk or synthetics

• antron

I brand of nylon fibre

trade-I marked by the Du Pont Co

I • apparent wall thickness

; the apparent width of a fibre 11======'Htajle

II llramid I art/embroidery linen

wall as seen under the

micro-scope In the maturity test for

cotton, the apparent wall

thick-ness is assessed visually at the

widest part of the fibres as a

fraction of the maximum ribbon

width

_ aramid

11

*================

~ coloured ground, usually

; crossed by lines in a diamond : shape

I

: _ armour

I

: cotton, silk, wool, rayon,

syn-~ thetics, and blends Plain, twill,

I or rib, background often has a

~ small design either jacquard or

1 this strong fibre does not : dobby made with warp floats have a melting point and is ~ on surface giving a raised ef-flame proof It retains its shape, ; fect Design is often in two even at high temperatures and : colours and rose The name

is resistant to stretch ~ was derived from original

fab-2 a term used to describe fibres ~ ric, which was woven with a composed of synthetic linear ; small-interlaced design of chain macromolecules having in the : armour and used for military chain recurring amide groups, ~ equipment during the

Cru-at least 85% of which are joined; sades

directly by two aromatic rings ; _ art linen

be substituted for u to 50% of I It IS woven WI~ even threads

the amI 'd e groups P I : that are espeCIally good for

: embroIdery It IS very easy to

a needlepoint lace on a net ~ thread work Comes bleached, ground similar to alencon lace : or coloured Has a soft finish but on a larger net and without ~ _ art/embroidery linen

the cordon net outline thread of I bal d I ' £ b

~ usually of linen or linen/cotton

; It is made from smooth round

a design of various coloured dia- : yarns (not flattened by calender-mond shaped blocks on a single ~ ing) Used as a base for em-_ argyle

12

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asbestos I atmosphere for testing II

broidered table linen,

pillow-cases, also in drapes, slipcovers

and some apparel

• asbestos

I loops or curls, imitating the coat

I of an astrakhan lamb Some-times made with a mohair warp

to add lustre and curl to the

sur-I face Poor grades often have

a generic name used to

de-scribe a family of naturally

occurring fibrous hydrated I

silicates divided on the basis

cotton warp or back Luxuriant fur, curly and wavy Most popu-lar shade is brown It is a

I caracul lambskin from the

As-of mineralogical features into trakhan section of Russia

serpentines and amphiboles I

Six varieties were of commer- I • atactic polymer

cial importance: serpentine: a linear polymer containing chrysotile mg3 (si2oS) (oh)4, asymmetrically-substituted car-amphiboles: actinolite ca2 I bon atoms in the repeating unit (mgfe)5 (si6022) (oh)2, as- I of the main chain, a planar pro-bestos grunerite ( amosite) : jection of whose structure has (femg)7 (si6022) (oh)2,' I the same substitute situated ran-anthhophyllite (mgfe)7 I domly to anyone side or the (si6022)( oh) 2, crocidolite other of the main chain

na2fe2+3fe3+2(si6022)(oh)2, • atansaw

tremolite ca2mgS (si6022) I

(oh)2,the six varieties are

deemed to be asbestos only

when they have a fibrous form I

a wide, commodious chogha like garment for wrapping around the body

I a warp knit fabric in which a set

of yarns shifts diagonally one wale per course for several

I courses, then returns to the

a popular textile design

consist-ing of small floral discs or I

circles, sometimes with small

patterns within the circle

• astrakhan

original position

I • atmosphere for testing

a thick woven or knitted cloth

often of wool with a surface of I 1 standard temperate