Xe ô tô hyundai excel toàn tập hyundai excel - P11

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ELECTRICAL

SYSTEM

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GENERAL 2

CHARGING SYSTEM 18

IGNITION SYSTEM 30

STARTING SYSTEM 35

Federal Auto T/M California

Manual T/M and auto T/M Type

Advance mechanism

Contact pointless type with electronic control unit

(Electronic ignition system) Centrifugal type and vacuum type

2.5°

0.03 in (0.8 mm)

Ignition Coil

Primary coil resistance at 20°C (68°F) Q 1.1 - 1.3

Secondary coil resistance at 20°C (68°F) kQ 11.6 - 15.8

External resistor resistance at 20°C (68°F) Q 1.2 - 1.6

Plug gap (0.039-0.043 in.) 1.0-1.1 mm

More than 6,600 rpm More than 6,500 rpm 0.0197-0.079 in (0.5-2 mm) 0.0197-0.079 in (0.5-2 mm)

Electronic type Built-in brush holder

CHARGING SYSTEM

Troubles in the charging system may be due to improper fan

belt tension, wiring, connector, a defective electronic voltage

regulator or a bad battery.

What is important in troubleshooting the charging system, is to

determine whether the trouble is due to a rundown or

over-charged battery Check the batteries condition before checking

alternator Malfunctions of the IC alternator include the

follow-ing:

Dead battery;

o Faulty (open) IC regulator

o Faulty (broken wire, short circuit) field coil

o Faulty main diode

o Faulty auxiliary diode

o Faulty stator coil

o Faulty brush contact

Over charging: No IC regulator control (short circuit).

In addition to the above, problems with the adjustment voltage

may occur, but these are extremely rare.

Use the following procedure for inspection.

Symptom

Charging warning indicator

does not light with the

igni-tion switch in the “ON” posiigni-tion

and engine off.

Charging warning indicator

does not go out with engine

running (Battery requires

fre-quent recharging)

Overcharge

Probable cause Fuse blown

Light burned out Wiring connection loose Electronic voltage regulator faulty Drive belt loose or worn

Battery cables loose, corroded or worn Fuse blown

Fusible link blown Electronic voltage regulator or alter- nator faulty

Wiring faulty Electronic voltage regulator faulty

Remedy Check fuses

Replace light Tighten loose connections Replace the alternator Adjust tension or replace drive belt Repair or replace cable

Replace fuses Replace fusible link Check alternator Repair wiring Check alternator

1 Open hood and fit fender covers.

2 Check drive belt tension Fig 1 Using belt tension gauge it

available.

Alternatively, total free movement measured on the longest

span of the belt should be 0.4 in, (9 mm) applying normal

fingertip pressure (100N: 22 Ibs.)

Fig 1

3 Check battery condition.

Refer battery service adjustment procedure.

4 Check charging circuit wiring continuity, Fig 2.

Disconnect battery ground lead, remove the alternator “L” and

“R” terminals Refit ground lead and switch on ignition

Con-nect a 0-20V range voltmeter, between a good ground and

each of the “L” and “R” terminals, in turn The voltmeter

should read approximately battery voltage in all cases: a zero

volt indicates an open circuit.

A - “L” and “R” terminals

B - Voltmeter

5 Connect output test circuit, Fig 3.

6 Switch on headlamps, heater blower motor and rear heated

glass, where fitted Start engine, run it at 3,000 rev/min Vary

resistance to increase load current Rated output should be

reached without voltage dropping below 13 volts.

7 Switch off ignition, headlamps, heater blower motor and rear

heated glass and disconnect test circuit.

A - Ammeter

B - Voltmeter

C - Rheostat-Resistor should be 30 amps rating

8 Connect ‘positive side’ volt drop test circuit and reconnect

alternator “L” and “R” terminal, Fig 4.

9 Switch on headlamps, start engine, and check volt drop.

Run engine at 3,000 rev/min If voltage is in excess of 0.5 volt,

this indicates a high resistance on the positive side of the

charging circuit which must be located and rectified.

10 Switch off ignition and headlamps.

Fig 2

Fig 3

Fig 4

11 Connect ‘negative side’ volt drop test circuit, Fig 5.

12 Switch on headlamps, start engine and check volt drop.

Run the engine at 3,000 rev/min Check the voltmeter

read-ing If the reading is in excess of 0.25 volt, this indicates a high

resistance on the negative side of the charging circuit which

must be located and rectified.

13 Switch off ignition and headlamps and disconnect test circuit.

14 Connect control voltage test circuit, Fig 6.

15 Start engine and check regulator voltage.

Run engine at 3,000 rev/min Note ammeter reading When

this falls to between 3 and 5 amps, check the voltmeter

read-ing, it should be 13.7 to 14.5 volts If reading is outside

speci-fied limits, regulator is defective.

16 Switch off ignition and disconnect test circuit.

17 Disconnect battery ground lead.

18 Refit alternator “L” and “R” terminals and refit battery ground

lead.

19 Remove fender covers, close hood.

Handling Precautions

1 Make sure that alternator, battery, etc., are connected properly.

If battery polarity is reversed, excessive current will flow from

battery to alternator, and damage to diodes or wiring harness

could result.

2 Using a Megger or other high-voltage tester for the inspection

will cause damage to the diodes.

3 Do not disconnect battery terminals while engine is running.

Surge voltage will be produced which could cause

deteriora-tion of diodes or transistors.

4 When battery is to be quick-charged be sure to disconnect

battery terminals first If terminals are not disconnected,

dam-age to diodes could result.

5 When a steam cleaner is used, make sure that alternator is not

directly exposed to steam.

Fig 5

Fig 6

STARTING SYSTEM

The troubles of starting system may be divided into “Starting

motor does not turn”, “Starting motor turns but engine does not

start” and “It takes some time before engine starts” When

there is something wrong with starting system, therefore, it is

important to determine which part of starting system is

defec-tive before removing the starter.

Generally, starting difficulty, aside from inoperative starting

motor, is attributable to defective ignition system, fuel system,

battery, electrical wiring, etc If makeshift corrective steps are

taken without locating the cause, the same trouble will develop

again.

Starter motor does not turn

Check

Turn ignition switch to “ST” Does solenoid

2 Loose terminal B wire

3 Faulty wiring between battery and

terminal B

Starter motor defective or engine is Is voltage available at S terminal

Yes Starter motor defective

No Inhibitor switch defective (A/T only)

Defective wiring between battery and magnetic switch

Refer to page 27-36 and inspect starter motor Repair wiring

Starter motor turns but engine does not start

Does initial engine start occur ?

No Ignition system or fuel system defective

Checking the Voltage Drop between Terminals B and M

To measure the voltage drop between contacts B and M, make the connections shown in the illustration If the voltage drop is 1V or more, it may prevent the engine from starting in cold weather, so replace the switch assembly.

CAUTION

Connect the voltmeter during cranking If the voltmeter is connected before the starting motor is operated, it could be damaged by an inflow of 12V.

IGNITION SYSTEM-DIAGNOSIS

The cause for hard engine starting or malfunction is not always

in ignition system Defective parts may exist in fuel-system or the engine itself.

The role of ignition system is to generate sufficient electric sparks at proper time To check ignition system, therefore, it is necessary that spark check and timing measurement are tho- roughly performed.

For on-vehicle troubleshooting of ignition system, the short cut

is to determine on the basis of symptoms (phenomena) which circuit is defective, the power supply, primary low tension cir- cuit or high tension circuit.

For example, when all spark plugs fail to produce sparks, ble cause is in power supply or primary circuit If misfiring occurs only at a specific spark plug, the high tension or secon- darycircuit is likely to be defective If misfiring occurs occasion- ally, loose leads or spark plugs can be suspected.

proba-If good sparks are produced but engine is in poor condition, probable cause is incorrect timing or defective spark plugs.

Hard starting

Check battery condition

Check starting system

Check ignition system See Spark Test

Spark test (When engine can be cranked)

TEST 1

Disconnect high tension cable from the center tower of distributor cap, hold end of cable about 5-10 mm (0.2-0.4 in.) away from cylinder block of engine, crank engine with starter, and check spark condition.

With ignition switch at ON position, measure timing

voltage of (-) terminal of ignition coil

Voltage equal to battery voltage 0 V Defective wiring between

battery and ignition coil

TEST 3

With key switch at ON position, measure voltage of

(-) terminal of ignition coil

Poor Low Speed Performance

(Backfiring or hard starting

occurs)

Poor Acceleration (Poor high speed performance Insufficient output Engine stalls on acceleration

Faulty advance mechanism

Defective vacuum advance mechanism

Check ignition timing.

Engine Stalls Occasionally or

Misfiring Occurs Occasionally

Faulty ignition coil

Defective insulation of high

tension cables, cap, rotor

and/or spark plugs

Faulty primary circuit

(Damaged primary cable and

ignition coil or overheated

ignition coil)

BATTERY-MAINTENANCE FREE TYPE

General Information

1 The maintenance-free battery is, as the name implies, totally

maintenance free and has no removable battery cell caps.

2 Water never needs to be added to the maintenance-free battery.

3 The battery is completely sealed, except for small vent holes in

the cover.

4 The battery contains a visual test indicator which gives green

signal when an adequate charge level exists, white signal when

charging is required, and red signal when replacement is

required.

Battery Visual Inspection (1)

CHARGE RATE

If the test indicator is white, the battery should be charged.

When the dot appears green, charging should be stopped.

NOTE

If the indicator does not turn to green even after the battery is

charged, the battery should be replaced; do not overcharge.

Battery Visual Inspection (2)

1 Make sure ignition switch is in Off position and all battery feed

accessories are Off.

2 Disconnect battery cables at battery (negative first).

3 Remove battery from vehicle.

CAUTION

Care should be taken in the event battery case is cracked or

leaking to protect hands from the electrolyte A suitable pair

of rubber gloves (not the household type) should be worn

when removing battery by hand.

4 Inspect battery carrier for damage caused by loss of acid from

battery If acid damage is present, it will be necessary to clean

area with a solution of clean warm water and baking soda.

Scrub area with a stiff bristle brush and wipe off with a cloth

moistened with ammonia or baking soda in water.

5 Clean top of battery with same solutions as described in Step (4).

6 Inspect battery case and cover for cracks If cracks are prevent,

battery must be replaced.

7 Clean the battery post with a suitable battery post cleaner.

BATTERY CONDITION INDICATOR

GOOD UNDER SHORT CONDITION CHARGED OF FLUID GREEN WHITE RED

8 Clean the inside surfaces of the terminal clamps with a ble battery terminal cleaning tool Replace damaged or frayed cables and broken terminals clamps.

suita-9 Install the battery in vehicle.

10 Connect cable clamps to battery post, making sure top of clamp

is flush with top of post.

11 Tighten the calmp nut securely.

12 Coat all connections with light mineral grease after ening.

1 Connect tachometer and timing light.

2 Start engine and run at curb idle speed.

3 Check basic ignition timing and adjust if necessary.

Basic Ignition Timing 3°BTDC ± 2° : California

5°BTDC ± 2° : Federal

4 To adjust ignition timing, loosen the distributor mounting nut

and turn the distributor housing.

5 After adjustment, securely tighten mounting nut.

SPARK PLUG CABLE TEST

1 Disconnect spark plug cable from spark plug.

When sparkplug cable is pulled out, be sure to pull by the cable

cap If spark plug is removed by pulling on cable only an open

circuit might result.

2 Hold the spark plug cable about 0.24-0.31 in (6-8 mm) away

from engine proper (grounding portion such as cylinder block)

and crank engine to verify that sparks are produced.

I

SPARK PLUG INSPECTION AND TEST

1 Remove the spark plugs from the engine.

2 Visually check the spark plugs for the following and replace if defective.

(a) Broken insulator.

(b) Worn electrode.

(c) Deposited carbon Use a plug cleaner for cleaning Clean porcelain insulator above shell as well.

(d) Damaged or broken gasket.

(e) Burnt condition of procelain insulator at spark gap.

If black carbon deposit is evident, probable cause is too rich a fuel mixture or extremely low air intake Misfiring due to exces- sive spark gap is also suspected If insulator is burnt white, too lean a fuel mixture, excessively advanced ignition timing, improperly tightened plug, etc are suspected.

3 Connect the spark plug to the high tension cable, ground outer electrode (main body), and crank engine In the atomsphere, only short sparks are produced because of small discharge gap.

If the sparkplug is good, however, sparks will occur in discharge gap (between electrodes) In a defective spark plug, no sparks will occur because of leak of insulation puncture.

4 Check plug gap with plug gap gauge If it is not within specified limit, adjust by bending ground electrode.

Make sure that the gap of even a new spark plug is checked before spark plug is installed to engine.

Spark plug gap 0.039-0.043 in (1.0-1.1 mm)

5 Install the spark plug and tighten to specified torque If it is over-torqued, damage to threaded portion of cylinder head might result.

If spark test is performed by cranking while the catalyst is hot,

unburned gas will be supplied to the catalyst, and this is not

desirable to the catalyst For this reason, use the following

methods which allow spark test to be performed without

cranking.

1 Remove the distributor cap.

2 Check signal rotor position in relation to the pick-up If it is not

the position shown in the illustration, turn the crankshaft

man-ually so that the projection of the signal rotor should be

positi-oned so that current can flow to the ignition coil.

3 Disconnect the high tension cable from the center tower of the

distributor cap, and hold the end of the cable about 0.2 to 0.4 in.

( 5 to 10 mm ) away from the cylinder block of the engine.

4 Turn the ignition switch to “ON” Then, when a piece of metal

(the tip of a screwdriver for instance) is inserted into the

detec-tion coil of the pick-up and then moved away, a spark can be

generated.

CHARGING SYSTEM

COMPONENTS (BOSCH TYPE)

1 Fan

2 Spacer

3 Drive end housing

4 Drive end bearing retainer plate

5 Slip ring end bearing

6 Slip ring end housing

7 Brush box and regulator

8 Rectifier (diode) pack

1 Remove only after setting the ignition switch to “OFF” and

disconnecting the battery’s ground cable.

1 Remove pulley retaining nut, washer, pulley, fan, spacer and

woodruff key.

2 Remove brush box.

3 Remove through bolts and separate drive end housing and rotor

from slip ring end housing.

4 Press out rotor from drive end housing.

5 Remove drive end bearing and retainer.

6 Support slip ring end bearing with a large washer, incorporating

a cut out to accommodate the rotor shaft, and press bearing

from shaft, Fig 1.

1 - Bearing

2 - Press

3 - Suitable diameter mandrel

4 - Washer

7 Remove rectifier (diode) pack retaining screws and lift out stator

and rectifier pack.

8 Unsolder stator to diode pack connections using a pair of pliers,

as a heat sink to reduce heat spread to diodes.

9 Clean and examine all components.

INSPECTION

Rectifier

1 To check positive diodes, connect a 12 volt supply via test lamp

of approximately 5 watts wired to from a circuit when

con-nected through one of the diodes.

1 - Positive diodes

2 - Brushbox terminal

3 - Negative diodes

(a) Connect test equipment to positive section of diode pack,

negative terminal attached to topside of one of diodes

Con-nect positive terminal to underside of diode, Fig 3 If diode is

functioning correctly, bulb will light.

(b) Carry out same procedure for remaining two positive diodes,

1 - Positive diodes.

Fig 1

Fig 2

Fig 3

(c) Reverse to terminals, i.e positive terminal to topside and

negative terminal to underside If bulb illuminates diode is

defective.

(d) Carry out same procedure for remaining two positive

diodes.

Fig 4

2 To check field diodes, connect test equipment shown in Fig 4.

With negative connection coupled to the brush-box terminal

and positive connection to stator coil poles, bulb will light if

diode is operating correctly.

(a) Connect positive terminal to two remaining diodes in turn to

3 To check negative diodes.

Connect test equipment to negative section of diode pack, Fig 1

with positive terminal attached to topside of one of diodes.

Connect negative terminal to underside of diode, Fig 5.

If diode is functioning correctly, bulb will light.

Carry out procedure for remaining two diodes.

1 - Negative diodes

(c) Reverse terminals

If bulb illuminates, diode is defective.

Repeat process on remaining two diodes.

Rotor

1 Carry out electrical check of rotor condition.

(a) Rotor winding continuity, Fig 6