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No information or material herein is to be construed to be an offer or solicitation for sale A Broker/Agent must register their client in person on client’s fi rst visit at each community for a Broker/Agent to receive a commission

or referral fee, if available Not all features and options are available in all homes Unless otherwise expressly stated, homes do not come with hardscape, landscape, or other decorator items Photographs or renderings of people do not depict or indicate any preference regarding race, religion, gender, sexual orientation, disability, familial status, or national origin The prices of our homes, included features, plans, specifi cations, promotions/ incentives, neighborhood build-out and available locations are subject to change without notice Any photographs or renderings used herein refl ect artists’ conceptions and are for illustrative purposes only Community maps, illustrations, plans and/or amenities refl ect our current vision and are subject to change without notice Builder does not warrant the suitability of any trail for any use or for any person Our name and the logos contained herein are registered trademarks of TRI Pointe Group, Inc and/or its subsidiaries CA Contractor’s License No 251810 CA DRE License No 02027320 © 2018 Pardee Homes, a member of the TRI Pointe Group All rights reserved.

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92

The First Ladies

of Food

Senior Editor Archana Ram sits down with six

local female chefs and restaurateurs who

revolutionized San Diego’s food scene They

talk challenges, successes, convoluted laws,

and using a wedding ring for a security deposit

76

Desserts

It’s the Sugar Rush of 2018! We’re

diving into San Diego’s most iconic,

must-try sweets, including chocolate

cakes, brownie sundaes, flaky

pastries, and more Plus, profiles on

local dessert chefs, a recipe for

tiramisu, and an ice cream face-off

Volume 70, Number 11

C O N T E N T S

BETTY’S PIE WHOLE

A Powerful Partnership

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In San Diego.

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By gaining access to the top cancer center in the nation and their groundbreaking research, leading-edge technologies, and innovative treatment options, Scripps is elevating the standard of care and Making Cancer History® in San Diego

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ON THE COVER

For information on special advertising sections, please contact Karen Mullen at 619-744-0525

31 Winter Escapes 49 Private Dining 72 Holiday Entertaining 106 Party Pages

SPECIAL SECTIONS

17 MAIN EVENT It’s 98

Degrees at Balboa Theatre

Globe stages Looking for

Christmas, a Clint Black musical

Where to eat, drink, and play in

Encinitas

Lake Murray to Cowles Mountain

Meet Judy Forrester, CEO and

executive director of The New

Children’s Museum

at the InterContinental San Diego

38 Q&A ImperfectProduce delivers “ugly” fruits and vegetables to your doorstep

40 SIDE DISH November’s Very Important Taco, plus restaurant openings and rumors

42 REVIEW TroyJohnson on Bivouac Ciderworks

moves into Liberty Station, plus Leo Hamel’s new consignment store

for the holidays, three approaches to a seasonal table setting

Spend what you earn on what you love.

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What are you thankful for?

To work with

so many incredibly

TA L E N T E D

P E O P L E!

That my FA M I LY

I S N E A R B Y, which means I don’t have to deal with the chaos of holiday travel

A little bit of

S W E AT E R

W E AT H E R! As

an East Coast transplant, I love a crisp, cool morning.

T H I S C I T Y, which never ceases to inspire and amaze me!

H OT YO G A It clears my head and keeps me grounded.

12SAN DIEGO MAGAZINEN O V E M B E R 2 0 1 8

we didn’t have to twist her arm

to do it “I have a major sweet tooth,” she says “Cake, cookies, ice cream, gummy bears—I love them all Not shockingly, I had two root canals before I turned 12.” Of the 73 desserts Ram lined up for the feature, a few stood out, like the carrot cake at Hanna’s Gourmet (“A carrot cake that will woo carrot cake haters”) and Atypical Waffl e Co “My husband proposed there—a little waffl e shop behind a laundromat in North Park We had our reception there, too!” She also moderated this month’s roundtable discussion with six female chefs who transformed our local dining scene (page 92) “To have these powerhouse women together at one table, confi ding in each other about what it took to open their restaurants that still stand decades later—it was an incredible experience.”

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MADISON PARKER

P H OTO G R A P H E R

Parker describes her photography style just like Bruce Lee: “The best style is no style I am open to capturing any moment, any subject.” Which is why we tasked her with shooting sweets for our cover story and “The First Ladies of Food” (page 92) The San Diego native studied at San Francisco’s Academy of Art University and spent a few years in Los Angeles building her entertainment portfolio— she’s shot Snoop Dogg and Christina Milian—before returning to her roots last year “There is so much to this city,” she says “I spend my days peeling back its layers, discovering new places and people to photograph”—like the chefs’ roundtable “To see these women dominate in this industry is inspiring.”

recipes!—at saltpepperskillet.com

justin_mw

14SAN DIEGO MAGAZINEN O V E M B E R 2 0 1 8

from the

Heroes The Mindful San Diegan

henever my sister Jen and I got straight As on

our report cards, our parents would take us

to the Chart House in Cardiff I don’t know

how or why this became a tradition, but the

Meanleys are swordfi sh people and, well, we

are creatures of halibut Kidding Another draw was the

thick slices of warm bread and—remember salad bars?

We would each order the same entrée and split the

famous Mud Pie

Pastry chefs will shoot me down for writing this,

but desserts were made for sharing Th at’s when people

really talk about what they’re eating Th ere’s praise for

the presentation of the dish, the inevitable show of guilt

about a broken diet, a concentrated dissection (“What’s in

this layer?”), and sudden attention to fork etiquette

Desserts bring people together, and though they may seem

a simple thing, on page 76 Senior Editor Archana Ram proves

sweets are anything but From profi teroles to pie, a lot goes into

this little course She combed Instagram, interviewed pastry chefs,

and systematically taste-tested for months, ultimately fi ling a

6,000-word magnum opus on the 73 best desserts in San Diego (and nary a

Mud Pie on there!) By the end, you’ll not only be scheduling your next

coff ee date at a bakery, you’ll have learned what art, skill, and talent—

not to mention childhood memories, family traditions, and cultural

infl uences—get baked into a single petite ramekin

Archana also produced the female chefs’ roundtable this month

(page 92), a Q&A she began coordinating in September 2017 What came

together is a history of San Diego’s food scene through a woman’s

eyes, beginning in the mid-1980s It’s also a frank discussion about

industry challenges, with confessions of missteps and tales of sacrifi ce

I couldn’t put it down—the fi rst time I read it, I was late for a meeting I

was leading (Not a straight-A student move!)

Th ese days my family has drifted from the Chart House, and we’re often trying to cut down on sugar But this issue will persuade anyone to say, “Yes, you may bring me the dessert menu.”

E R I N M E A N L E Y G L E N N Y, E D I T O R I N C H I E F

emeanley erinm@sdmag.com

W

ALL THAT GLITTERS

Normally we’d never say no to sparkle—

’tis the season!—but as much as we loved the gold dusting on Azúcar’s Divina cake, the passion-fruit-meringue dessert and its accompanying sweet pink rose popped more on a white backdrop (page 77)

about a broken diet, a concentrated dissection (“What’s in

Desserts bring people together, and though they may seem

a simple thing, on page 76 Senior Editor Archana Ram proves

sweets are anything but From profi teroles to pie, a lot goes into

this little course She combed Instagram, interviewed pastry chefs,

and systematically taste-tested for months, ultimately fi ling a

6,000-word magnum opus on the 73 best desserts in San Diego (and nary a

Mud Pie on there!) By the end, you’ll not only be scheduling your next

Life of Pie

LOVE, LOSS, AND WHAT WE ATE

We photographed more than 30 desserts for our cover story (page 76), but picking just one shot for each was no cakewalk

We loved how artistic Juniper and Ivy’s Yodel looked from above, but it was hard to decipher what the dish was To see which photo we ultimately chose, head to page 81

INSIDE THE ICON:

THE NAT

+

WHAT TO SIP, TASTE, AND SEE

IN ENCINITAS

A CLINT BLACK MUSICAL DEBUTS

AT THE OLD GLOBE

READ MORE Timmons talks about the band’s history and

holiday fever, at sdmag.com/98degrees.

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 8SDMAG.COM17

CHRISTMAS IN NOVEMBER

Balboa Th eatre, crank up the AC please It’s about to

get heated when 98 Degrees takes the stage in time for

the holidays, performing 98 DEGREES AT CHRISTMAS on

November 18 Th e all-male quartet—calling them a “boy

band” isn’t quite as apt as it was in the ’90s—reunited for

a second consecutive year to tour with songs from their

holiday albums Let It Snow (2017) and Th is Christmas

(1999) Peppering dad-joke banter between heartthrob

hits like “Th ank God I Found You,” “I Do,” and “Because of

You,” the family show is meant to have a little something

for everyone, even those longtime fans who’ve seen them

time and time again As founding member Jeff Timmons

puts it: “I think we’re actually better now than we’ve ever

been We’ve had over 20 years to develop our vocals!”

—SARAH PFLEDDERER

98 DEGREES AT CHRISTMAS November 18, Balboa Theatre, 868 Fourth Avenue,

Downtown sandiegotheatres.org sdbalboatheatre

PEOPLE

PLACES

P E O P L E + P L A C E S

The Nat

The society behind the Balboa Park

building dates back 144 years, and

specimens inside it even further

by SARAH PFLEDDERER

MORE THAN A MUSEUM

“Do you want to see my beetle collection?” That was

the pickup line from railroad surveyor Oliver Sanford to

attorney Daniel Cleveland that would eventually lead to

the San Diego Society of Natural History The society

comprised just 10 members when it was incorporated in

1874 (it welcomed its first two female members a year

later) and served as a club for nature hobbyists to

compare specimens and collect them together

throughout Southern and Baja California, with a stated

mission to study nature, diffuse information, and collect

and preserve materials pertaining to natural sciences

Now the third oldest scientific institution west of the

Mississippi, the society boasts a museum, 7,000

members, and a history of advocation for the

preservation of local natural resources

I N S I D E T H E I C O N

BALBOA PARK OR BUST

It took 38 years for the society to find a physical space to showcase its collections, opening its first exhibit in a room at Hotel Cecil in 1912 Five years later, it moved into the Nevada Building in Balboa Park and officially opened the San Diego Natural History Museum, aka The Nat When that building was demolished to make way for the San Diego Zoo, The Nat relocated to the Foreign Arts Building (now the Prado) and once more into the Canadian Building (now MoPA) It finally found a permanent home thanks to a $125,000 donation from Ellen Browning Scripps to construct a new building by William Templeton Johnson (he also designed the San Diego Museum of Art) It opened in 1932, and saw a 90,000-square-foot extension in 2001

SPECIMENS IN ORDERThe society took a while to get its collections

in order, officially cataloguing its first entry in 1926—a southern alligator lizard collected at Mission Gorge The Nat now has eight million specimens, many of which predate the society’s founding Among its archives are rare books from 1514, a hand-drawn map

of Jamaica from 1794, and 14 bird specimens from 1874, including extinct California parakeets Its oldest species is a ring-necked snake, dissected into four pieces, collected in 1891 by Charles “The Cactus Man” Orcutt

WAR ZONE

In San Diego, World War II meant city-wide Navy support On March 5, 1942, the military announced it would be repurposing The Nat into a hospital That meant rolling in 960 beds and installing elevators wide enough to accommodate gurneys Much of the society’s collection was temporarily housed in 30 locations around the county—schools, private homes, even the zoo Larger exhibits remained in storage at the museum, though some didn’t survive damage from mice and insects The Nat reopened in 1949, with a few new specimens collected and donated by service members during their stewardship PUTTING ON A SHOW

The society’s exhibitions have evolved immensely since its Hotel Cecil beginnings

The 2007 Dead Sea Scrolls exhibit, for

instance, took special care to install, given the fragile artifacts—written between 150 BCE and 70 CE—were on loan from as far away as Israel, Jordan, Russia, and Ethiopia The most

painstaking exhibit to date was 1985’s Dinosaurs: The Beasts Are Back, which required a hole cut through the second-floor wall to move robotic dinosaurs in by crane The permanent Foucault pendulum remains a crowd favorite Installed on the main floor in

1957, the perpetually swinging weight precesses in a circle throughout the day, proving that the Earth rotates

sdnat.org sdnhm

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A R T S + C U LT U R E

Christmas

with a Twang

The Old Globe debuts a timely, heartwarming musical

based on the music of country singer Clint Black

his month, he Old Globe premieres LOOKING FOR CHRISTMAS, a new

holiday musical with songs drawn from country singer Clint Black’s

1995 album of the same name Black is the latest in a growing list of

big-ticket names who have brought their musical catalogue and

LOOKING FOR CHRISTMAS

November 11–

December 16 The Old Globe, Balboa Park

theoldglobe.org

theoldglobe

by KIMBERLY CUNNINGHAM

T

talent to the Globe, including Huey

Lewis (he Heart of Rock and Roll,

2018), and Steve Martin and Edie

Brickell (Bright Star, 2014).

To bring his songs to life, Black partnered with bookwriter James D Sasser he pair met about two years ago after one of Black’s concerts Sasser, a graduate of NYU’s musical theater writing program, was seeking new projects, and he asked the country star whether he’d ever considered doing

a musical “As I delved deeper into his catalog, I realized what an incredible storyteller he is,” Sasser recalls

When they irst sat down together, it was Black who proposed the concept of a Christmas musical “I had about ive ideas, and one of them was good,” the singer jokes

But for Sasser, this was no joke

“I was two tracks into his Christmas album at that point,” he says, “and it all just coalesced.”

he story follows Staf Sergeant Mike Randolph, a combat medic who returns home from Afghanistan just before Christmas Before he can really embrace the spirit of the season, Randolph must confront the lingering remnants of war within him hat the plot would have a strong military element resonated with each member of the creative team, which also includes director Kent Nicholson and music supervisor Charles Vincent Burwell All, with the exception of Black, are sons of veterans

For further inspiration, Sasser interviewed fellow military families and close friends He also spent weeks watching what felt like every Christmas movie ever made, searching for common themes and attempting to uncover the magic ingredient that makes holiday ilms so endearing he answer? Family, community, and the individual’s role in the community—all of which play a

pivotal part in Looking for Christmas.

Of course, one of the biggest inluences on the storyline was Black’s album “From day one, Clint understood that in musicals

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what drives the story forward is

the music,” Sasser explains “I was

blown away by Clint’s willingness

to reexamine the lyrics and try

diferent things to serve the

material.” Some of the original

songs have been “tweaked and

tinkered with,” while four others

were written just for this

production

“I never felt any of these songs

were too precious to mess with,”

Black adds

he production will play

concurrently with the Globe’s

long-running children’s classic, Dr

Seuss’s How the Grinch Stole

Christmas!, but Black and Sasser

want to attract a whole new

audience with their piece

I never felt any

of these songs

were too precious

to mess with.

As part of the theater’s Holiday

Salute to the Military, sponsors

like Viasat and he Jefrey and

Sheila Lipinsky Family Foundation

will provide free tickets, beverage

coupons, and a holiday gift to

active-duty service members and

their families his comes in

addition to the theater’s ongoing

military discounts and outreach

programs, such as the Globe for All

Tour

he show also coincides with

the 30th anniversary of Black’s

landmark album Killin’ Time, for

which he’s planned celebrations

continuing into 2019 Meanwhile,

Looking for Christmas is already

slated for a multicity tour next

year; both Black and Sasser hope it

will become a recurring holiday

tradition around the country

“he story we’re telling will be a

moving experience that people can

watch again and again,” Black

says “Like It’s a Wonderful Life, no

matter how many times I’ve seen

it, it still gets me in the end.”

Encinitas

N E I G H B O R H O O D G U I D E

Trendy Mexican food, third-wave

coffee, and ultra-chic clothing

boutiques prove that the quiet

North County surf town is

all grown up

by ARCHANA RAM archanapram

EVENTS THIS MONTH Succulent wreath workshop, San Diego Botanic Garden, November 10

The Royal Tenenbaums,

La Paloma Theatre, November 15, 17, and 18

Clockwise from top left:

San Diego Botanic Garden, Ironsmith Coffee Roasters, Four Moons Spa, Lone Flag, Encinitas shoreline, Death by Tequila

BOTANIC GARDEN: RACHEL COBB, IRONSMITH: KAI DIAZ, DEATH BY TEQUILA: COLE FERGUSON, BEACH: SHUTTESRSTOCK.COM

5 15

8

SAN DIEGO BOTANIC

GARDEN Stroll through 37

acres of more than 4,000

species of palms, fl owering

trees, cacti, and more At

Hamilton Children’s Garden,

kids can learn about edible

plants, read a sundial, and

see aquaponics in action

sdbgarden.org

sandiegobotanicgarden

LONE FLAG At this hip

menswear shop, look for

button-downs by Gitman,

Japanese denim, and

leather goods from their

namesake label

loneflag.co loneflag

IRONSMITH COFFEE

ROASTERS The founders

built the 720-square-foot

café from the ground up,

literally, and now serve a

menu of espresso drinks

with oat and almond milk

options, plus loaves and

pastries from Wayfarer

Pick a base (saffron rice, greens, grains, or pita);

then top it with savory spreads like hummus and harissa; and fi nish with falafel, spicy lamb meatballs, or other proteins

cava.com cava

FOUR MOONS SPA Bali

or Encinitas? You’d

be hard-pressed to tell the difference at this serene spa and wellness center lined with bamboo bungalows and koi ponds Beyond massages and vinyasa classes, they offer acupuncture, life coaching, astrology readings, and reiki sessions

fourmoonsspa.com

fourmoonsspa

SALT CULTURE Founded by pro surfer Rob Machado and his wife, Sophie, this bright boutique recently doubled its space to make room for men’s clothing, accessories, and Rob’s custom-made surfboards that sit alongside the already popular lineup

of women’s jumpsuits, dresses, and jewelry

in makrut lime broth, and Spanish octopus served with a housemade chorizo At the bar, look for over 100 varieties

of tequila, 30 types of mezcal, beer from Tijuana, and wines bottled in Valle

de Guadalupe

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Doug Campbell is so dedicated to continuing education that he has received the title Fellow of the Academy of General Dentistry (AGD) in recognition of his extensive training in cosmetic, general and reconstructive dentistry.

Dr David Landau has distinguished himself among dentists by fulfi lling the qualifi cations to be one of 389 Accredited Dentists of the American Academy of Cosmetic Dentistry (AACD).

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CHRISTMAS

CAROL

HOLIDAY CLASSIC

Adaptation & Lyrics by Sean Murray

Original Score by Billy Thompson

Nov 28 – Dec 20, 2018

Tickets: 619.337.1525 www.cygnettheatre.org

Music, ghosts, and a lit tle redemption.

T R A I L O F T H E M O N T H

by CLAIRE TRAGESER illustrations by ASHLEIGH CORRIN

DOG FRIENDLY • NOT STROLLER FRIENDLY • FREE PARKING

or run around Lake Murray

WHERE TO REFUEL

Get craft beer, plus hearty brunch options, sandwiches, and salads at KnB Bistro (6380 Del Cerro Boulevard, Del Cerro), which also has a dog-friendly patio

WHERE Start on the bike path from the parking lot off Lake Murray Boulevard, but instead of going

to the end, head right on Park Ridge Boulevard and then follow Golfcrest Drive to the Cowles Mountain trailhead, where the real work begins

WHAT TO INSTAGRAM Your Fitbit when you’ve finished this long trek

CHALLENGING

experienced hikers in peak physical shape

9.3 MILES

out-and-back

More than ever, investors are moving their wealth away from large fi nancial fi rms with bloated overhead costs and watered-down advice

“Clients are looking for someone who understands them specifi cally and knows what they care about,” says Tim Dyer, a wealth manager who works with executives, entrepreneurs, and high-net-worth families in San Diego

After many years working at a large brokerage

fi rm, Dyer changed his business with the times, opting for a fast-and-light operation to provide high-value services to clients “You don’t need thousands of researchers and staff inside your

fi rm The information is abundantly available today What you do need is somebody to decipher information and apply it to the client’s specifi c situation,” he says “Technology has leveled the playing fi eld so it’s easier to serve a small number of clients much more profoundly Investors are getting a more personal touch,

in a more effi cient and cost-effective manner.”Dyer walks new clients through a diagnostic process to refl ect critically on their priorities When they aren’t sure, Dyer acts as a strategic

“thought partner” and is able to share previous lessons learned “We help provide context about what it is they genuinely want to accomplish

If people are unsure, we help them to uncover things they might not have seriously considered

We live in a complex world where people need somebody to guide them to the right decisions for their wealth, both now and in the future.”

Erin Meanley Glenny: What are some of the secrets

to your success?

Judy Forrester: I’ve always been willing to take a job nobody

else wanted—identifying opportunities that seem super daunting

or circumstances that weren’t really attractive, accepting that,

and just putting my head down I was fortunate I got hired at

the chamber of commerce fairly early in my career and started

working in membership, and then they had a position open in

welfare-to-work I was trying to help connect chamber members

to welfare recipients, which wasn’t a very popular thing

EMG: So the unpopular job is like a proving ground

JF: It’s also understanding that you can’t do it by yourself For me,

it was gathering groups of people who believed in what we were

doing and would come alongside us to make it happen When I

was at the Red Cross, I had great mentors—Jerry Sanders and

Kimberley Layton—and the people involved with helping put it

back together When I started the San Diego County Medical

Society Foundation, which is now Champions for Health, it was gathering a group of people that believed in the mission I spent a year at the USO, and then came to The New Children’s Museum It’s amazing what we can accomplish when no one cares who gets the credit The other thing is, don’t talk about your successes; let your outcomes talk about your successes

EMG: Where did you go to school?

JF: I could never afford to go to college I was blessed by the community college system here When I went to Mesa, I paid $7 a semester—which included my parking and my insurance, because the college was free I’m a huge supporter of that I went my first

70 units at Mesa and then had automatic acceptance at San Diego State business school because of my grades

EMG: What did you do after college?

JF: My first years of working were really my proving and training ground I worked commission sales in the giftware industry And

I got recruited and started doing mortgage lending for Great Western Bank, now Chase Again, it was straight commission If

I didn’t sell anything, I didn’t eat When I started at the chamber, I got a stipend as a straight commission, so if I didn’t sell anything, I didn’t eat You learn really fast to do what’s important, and don’t let

a lot of peripheral stuff take all your time

EMG: Those are good lessons to learn early on

JF: Before college, I was one of the first waitresses for BJ’s pizza when they opened in La Jolla I also worked in the photo department at Sav-On drugstore

EMG: A lot of women in high positions like you make five- and 10-year plans Did you ever make one while at Sav-On?

JF: No, I was trying to buy my groceries My dad was ill, so he didn’t work a lot My mom eventually got a high school diploma, but my dad didn’t get out of seventh grade because his dad passed away and he had to support his family of six So college was not

in my social structure at all I came from the mindset that you did what you needed to pay your bills, as long as it was ethical and legal I had a great family; we just didn’t have any money I grabbed opportunities that were presented to me [Board Advisor] Mitch Mitchell reached out to me and said, “I need you at the museum.”

I didn’t know anything about arts and culture—I do now—but I knew how to run a business

EMG: You started at The New Children’s Museum as

a consultant in December 2015 What has changed

at the museum since then?

JF: I’ve helped change the business model so there’s funding

to do all the cool arts stuff We have a wonderful creative team Our attendance is up 40 percent, and the museum’s not hot in the summertime anymore The museum is working as a functional business now, and the arts people have the resources they need

EMG: We creatives need people like you

JF: The danger of nonprofits is people get so wrapped up in the mission—which is important, but if you don’t have a business structure that will support the mission, you can’t carry it out People forget that and they don’t backfill those business leaders who make the organization thrive

EMG: Can you talk a little bit about striking the work-life balance?

JF: I’m still learning to pick and choose what’s going to move the needle That’s the biggest thing for being a working mom that has

a disabled husband, a dad with Alzheimer’s, and three children

My younger self as a mom was juggling a lot—foster care, a foster child I was adopting, my dad lived with me—and somebody said

to me, “Don’t let perfection get in the way of good enough.” I was offended by that because I’ve always striven for perfection, as a mom, as a wife, and at work But then as I started getting older I realized how frazzled I was I learned to understand what I need

to do perfectly, what I can get away with not doing perfectly, and what I don’t need to do at all

Judy Forrester, CEO and executive director

of The New Children’s Museum, talks about rising

from humble beginnings, taking on unpopular jobs,

and identifying what will move the needle

Proving Her Worth

“

“

It’s amazing what we can accomplish when no one cares who gets the credit.

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he life-correcting corn pound cake with honey caramel popcorn may make you forget that VISTAL, at the new InterContinental hotel, is a seafood concept he chef is top local talent Amy DiBiase (ex-Tidal) Her silent partner is F&B Director Paul McCabe (L’Auberge Del Mar), one of the best chefs the city’s seen Vistal’s huge patio gawks at the bay

and the USS Midway, accomodating

locals and guests who sip drinks like the mole old-fashioned (bourbon meets chocolate and chiles) he must-try is DiBiase’s pickled black cod with conit fennel, malted pumpernickel, preserved plum, and horseradish aioli (pictured), not to mention those delicate, cider-glazed pork cheeks For the plant crowd, it’s roasted beets pickled in thrilling ways ad ininitum, drizzled with walnut-beet green pesto What a view, what a duo —TROY JOHNSON

Waste Not,

Want Not

Imperfect Produce, the “ugly” fruit and vegetable

subscription service that recently debuted in San Diego,

is helping save 30 million pounds of food that would

otherwise end up in landfills by TROY JOHNSON

How did you get into the business of food waste?

About seven years ago, friends and I had been involved in fighting hunger through canned food At one point we saw a lot of really good food wasted

at our college dining halls Whole pizzas and bins of pasta tossed out So

we worked with the dining hall for our first initiative, Food Recovery Network

We did 15,000 pounds in our first semester at University of Maryland

We’re now at 230 colleges around the country I started to ask advisers where the most food is getting wasted that could be recovered And they all pointed toward farms So I had to go

to California I had somebody take me

to farms across the state I saw how much food is getting wasted because it’s too ugly Every time, the estimates from farmers were between 15 and 30 percent They called it “byproduct.”

It’s the same fruit, just not the right shape or color

Did you try to talk to grocers?

Grocery stores don’t even fully understand the negative impact on growers and the market I spoke at a pitch competition Various heads of sustainability for mainstream grocers were there, basically laughed me off the stage that regular people would buy fruits and veggies shaped like this They were oblivious to what I’d learned from their growers just a few months earlier We said, “There are all these people who want to buy ugly fruit and veggies, and at the same time the grocers are skeptical

So rather than pitching grocers, let’s

go to the people.”

How is Food Recovery Network different from Imperfect Produce?

FRN is a nonprofit focus with students, delivering to local soup kitchens Imperfect is a for-profit business Our mission is to eliminate

food waste and to better food systems by recovering these 20 billion pounds

How does it work?

It’s a home delivery business Customers can design their own custom boxes It’s a lot of fun on our social media We love to post pictures of our VIPs—very imperfect produce We always pick out our celebrities, like the eggplant that’s got a nose

What has the reaction been?

We’re now serving eight markets around the country, on the West Coast, the Midwest, and Texas We recently passed 30 million pounds

of produce recovered Press has been a big part of the story We got tremendously lucky that the media took a huge interest During our launch, we were covered by

PBS, the New York Times, and a whole feature story in National Geographic—a few months into launch, we were on the cover

You’ve said “wasted produce

is wasted water.” Explain

Around 70 percent of fresh water

in the US is used to grow food, according to the National Resources Defense Council Given we waste about 40 percent of food, 25 percent of all fresh water is wasted on food that’s never eaten On average, dozens of gallons of water go into growing every pound of produce It would’ve taken close to a billion pounds of water to grow the produce we’ve saved

Why San Diego?

The city’s a no-brainer Plus my brother, uncle, and cousin live there They’ve been asking me for years to bring it to San Diego

Is it cheaper than buying

“perfect” produce at a grocery store?

We pay a different company in each of our markets to scope out the grocery stores every week, and

we shoot to beat that by 30 percent Assuming you put at least 18 or

20 pounds of produce in your box, you should be saving money with Imperfect over a middle-of-the-road grocer If you create a small box, like $10, after that $5 delivery it’s on par or a little more expensive than a grocery store

Did you ever think Imperfect would grow this big?

Not a chance I got into this as a college student volunteer I didn’t make a dime the first two years, working 20 hours a week After that life as a nonprofit, barely making enough to live, I never thought we’d be able to make this a real business I had no idea there would

be any money in food waste And frankly, I didn’t care

Q & A

T’S HARD TO BLAME THEM,but it’s time to change hat stack

of beautiful, perfect apples at your grocery store hides an ugly

truth hey’re too pretty hat’s a problem, because Americans

waste 40 percent of the food produced every year; we throw

out about $165 billion worth of food annually

And major grocers are a big reason for that Most of them have

strict cosmetic guidelines for any fruit they take from farmers

he apples have to be the right size he peppers can’t be shaped

weird Eggplants can’t look like butts Some farm workers are

taught to not even pick produce that doesn’t it the grocery

standards Perfectly good, healthy produce that isn’t attractive

enough—wasted

Granted, grocers have to sell food Branding matters hey

believe Americans won’t buy “ugly” fruits or vegetables Market

by market, Ben Simon, CEO and cofounder of Imperfect Produce,

is proving them wrong His company takes “ugly” fruit and

vegetables from farmers that would otherwise go to waste, puts

them in a box, and sends the little freaks of nature to customers

Started in San Francisco in 2015, so far Imperfect has saved over

30 million pounds of good, albeit unhandsome, fruit and veggies

And in September, they expanded their subscription service into

the San Diego market Here, Simon talks with me about how a

college dining hall inspired the idea and why

launching in San Diego was a “no-brainer.”